Handbook for Travellers in Constantinople, Brûsa, and the Troad
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HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS IN CONSTANTINOPLE, BRUSA, AND THE TROAD. / s HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS is CONSTANTINOPLE, BR1JSA. AND THE TEOAD. WITH MAPS AND PLANS. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1900. WITH INDEX AND DIRECTORY FOR 1907. THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OF MUKBAY'S HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINED Or THE FOLLOWING AGENTS. Belgium. Holland, and Germany. A1X-LA- HAMBURG . MAUKKSOHNE. CHAPBLUI . | MATER. HEIDELBERG . MOUR. AMSTERDAM . RORBEKS. LEIPZIG . BROCKHAUS.— TW1ETMKYKR. ANTWERP . MRRTBNS. MANNHEIM . BENDER. — LOFFLER. BADEN-BADEN . MARE. MUNICH . ACKERMANN. — KAISER. I1KRLIN . ASHER. NURNBBRG . SCHBAG. — ZEISBR. BRUSSELS . KIESSLING. PESTII. HARTLEBEN. — RATH. CARLSRUHE. A. BIELEFELD. ROTTERDAM . KRAMERS. COLOGNE . DUMONT-SCHAUBERG. STRASSBURG . TRUBNER. DRESDEN . FIERSON. STUTTGART . TRUBNER. FRANKFURT . JflGEL. TRIESTE . SCHIMPFF. ORATZ . LEUSCHNER AND LCBENSKT. VIENNA . OEEOLD.— BRAUMULLER. THE HAGUE. NIJHOFF. WIESBADEN. KREIDEL. Switzerland. BALE . GEORO.— AMBEROER. NEUCHATEL. GERSTER. BERNE . SCHMIDT, FRANCEB AND CO. SCHAFFHAUSEN . HURTER. — JENT AND RXTNBRT. SOLEURE . JENT. COIRE . ORUBENMANN. ST. G ALLEN. HUBER. CONSTANCE . MECK. ZURICH . ALBERT MULLER. — CASER GENEVA . SANDOZ.— H. GEORG. SCHMIDT. — MEIER AND LAUSANNE . ROUSST. ZKLLER. LUCERNE . OEBRARDT. Italy. BOLOGNA . ZANICHELLI. PARMA . FERRARI AND PELLEGRINI. FLORENCE . LOE8CHER AND 8KEBEE.— PISA . HOEPLI. FLOR AND FINDEL. PERUGIA . LUINI. — RATETTI. GENOA . A. DONATH.— BEUF. ROME . SPITHOVER.—PIALE.— MODES LEGHORN . MAZZAJOLI. AND MENDEL. -LOESCHER. LUCCA . BARON. SAN REMO . SQUIRE. MANTUA . MONDOVI. SIENA . ONORATO POREI. MILAN . HOEPLI. TURIN. CARLO CLAUSEN. MODENA . 8ARASINO. VENICE . ONGANIA. NAPLES . E. PRASS. VERONA . TEDESCHI AND DRUCKKR. PALERMO . PEDONE. France. BORDEAUX . MULLER.— FEHET.— ROBIN. ORLEANS . PELLEGRIN. BOULOGNE . MERRIDEW. PARIS . GALIGNANI. — BOIVEAU. — CAEN . MASSIF. — BRULFERE BRENTANO. CANNES . ROBAUDT. PAU . LAFON. CHERBOURG . HENRI.— MARGUERIE. REIMS. MICHAUD.— GEOFFROI. DIEPPE . LE BLANC. — RKNAUX. ROUEN . LESTRINOANT. DINAH . DUVAL. ST. ETIENNR . CHEVALIER. GRENOBLE . DREVET. — GRATIER. ST. MALO . CON I. LILLE . QUARRB. TOOLON . MONGE. LYONS. ATNE.— SCHKURTNG.— MERA. TOULOUSE . G1MBT. MARSEILLES . CAMOIN FRERES. — MKUNIER. TOURS. GEORG BT. NICE . GALIGNANI. Spain and Portugal. GIBRALTAR . STATIONERT DEPOT. MALAGA . GARCIA TABOADELA. LISBON . LEWTAS. SEVILLE . SAM. B. CALDWELL. MADRID ADRIAN BOMO. Russia, Sweden, Denmark, and Norway. ST. PETERSBURG . WATK1NS. CHRISTIANIA . BENNETT. MOSCOW . OAUTIER.-DEUBNER.— LANG. COPENHAGEN . G. C. URSIN.— HOST. ODESSA . CAMOIN. STOCKHOLM . SAMSON & WAU.IN.— FRITZ. Malta. Ionian Islands. Constantinople. CRITIEN.— WATSON. CORFU . J. W. TAILOR. WICK AND WEISS. Greece. Cairo. ATHENE.— KARL WILBERG. O. 0. ZACIIARIA.— OH. LTV ADAS.— C. HORKSTEIN. India. CALCUTTA — THACKKK, 8FINK, ASD CO. I BOMBAY — THACKER AND CO., LIMITED. I COMBRIDGE. ( v ) PREFACE. The great changes that have taken place in Turkey within the last few years have rendered necessary a new Edition of the Handbook. Owing to the labour of revision it has been found impossible to complete the portion of the Handbook for Turkey in Asia relating to Anatolia and Mesopotamia so soon as was anticipated, and therefore the descriptions of Constantinople, Brusa, and Troy are now published in a separate volume for the convenience of a largely increasing number of travellers. The text has been rearranged and to a large extent rewritten. The map of modern Constantinople has been revised ; new maps of Ancient Constan tinople, the Bosporus, the Dardanelles, and the Plain of Troy have been prepared, and plans of some of the more interesting churches and mosques at Constantinople have been added. Special attention has been paid to the antiquities of Constan tinople ; Brusa and Nicasa are described fully for the first time ; and a description is given of the Anatolian Bailway as far as it has been opened for traffic. In the Introduction will be found a short sketch of the Osmanli Empire, which it is hoped will enable the traveller to understand some of the peculiarities connected with its organisation and administrative system. A new feature in the Handbook is the Index and Directory, which contains lists of hotels and tradespeople, sailings of ^steamers, tariffs of prices, and other necessary details. PKKFACE. Although the Editor has gone over the greater part of the ground in person, ho has taken great care to secure accuracy and practical utility by obtaining the assistance of friends who are either resident in the country, or have visited it during recent years. He is deeply indebted to his comrades, col leagues, and friends for the valuable aid they have afforded him, and he feels that without their assistance the work would have been impossible. The map of Ancient Constantinople has been prepared by Professor A. van Millingen, of Robert College, who has also contributed the description of the anticpaities of the city, and revised all that relates to it and to the Bosporus. Troy has been revised by Mr. Frank Calvert, United States Consul at the Dardanelles, and Brusa by Mr. A. Scholer, British Vice- Consul at that place. C. W. Wilson. December 2nd, 1892. The Handbook has been revised, and that portion relating to the Imperial Museum rewritten ; and the Editor has to express his thanks to the friends who have so readily afforded him assistance. To Professor van Millingen he is specially indebted for a revision of the Map of Ancient Constantinople, and of all that relates to the antiquities of the city. c. w. w. April 1900. CONTENTS OP PART I. INTRODUCTION. Introductory Remarks [1] Routes from England to Turkey [2] Railways , . [6] Passport, Firmans, Tezkerehs, &o [7] Postal and Telegraph Services [7] Muhammadan Year and Time ........ [9] Money, Weights, Measures [10] The Turkish Empire [13] Turkish Language [28] SECTION I. CONSTANTINOPLE, THE BOSPOBUS, BEUSA, THE HELLESPONT. PAGE PAGE Constantinople 1 Eynb . 21 Gnlata . 15 Ancient Constantinople 22 Pera 18 Stambul 58 Top-khaneh . 19 The Bosporus 91 Kassim Pasha 20 Skutari 111 Hnskeui 21 The Princes' Islands 115 EX0UESI0NS FEOM CONSTANTINOPLE. PAGE PAor The Sea of Marmara . .118 Constantinople to the Darda The Gulf of Ismid . 119 nelles, by Cyzieus and Pria- Constantinople to Ismid and pus 187 Angora, by Rail . .120 The Dardanelles and the Plain Brusa and Nicies . 124 of Troy . 189 MAPS AND PLANS. PAOKi Plan of Constantinople showing Ancient Sites . in pocket at beginning* „ Pera and Constantinople to face 1(1 Section through the Walls of Theodosius II Plan of Mosque of S. Sophia to face 4t;' „ Church of SS. Sergius and Bacchus ... .50 „ Kahriyeh Jami' 5; „ Mosque of Suleiman I 59 „ Bosporus , to face 93 Map of Sea of Marmara Ufi PlanofBrusa » 121 Map of Dardanelles » 13t' ,. the Plain of Troy u' THROUGH SERVICES BKTWEEX LONDON AND CONSTANTINOPLE. THE ORIENT EXPRESS. There is a daily Train de Luxe between London and Budapesth, both via Paris and vid Ostend. From Budapesth the service is continued on three days of the week, viz., Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday, vid Belgrade ; and twice a week, viz., Wednesday and Saturday, vid Bucharest. TIME TABLES. 1. LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. LONDON (Cbarlng X.) via Dover . dep. 9 0 a.m. Do. Do. via Folkestone . | 10 0 PARIS (Est) „ | 1 8 p.m. Deutsch-Avricourt arr- 1 45 a-m. Do. do dep.1 I 53 (G. Customs) (ten. E.T.) Strasburg ,, 3 19 „ Munich I 10 28 „ Salzburg „ ; 12 49 p.m. VIENNA (Westbahn) air. 5 50 ,, Do. do dep. 6 10 ,, Connection from London, via the Ostend- Vienna Express, see page xi. ( r ( Vid BBI.GItADB. Via Bucharest. £ VIENNA (Staats.) dep.; 6 46 p.m. VIENNA (Staatsb.) dep. 6 46 p.m. 1 £ < Pozsony . I 7 55 „ P0Z0NY . 7 55 { Budapesth (West.) arr. 11 0 „ BUDAPESTH . arr. 11 0 BUDAPESTH . dep. 11 30 Do. dep. 11 20 „ ,, 2 49 a.m. «>S-H Temesvar .... 4 43 / Szabadka . 2 51 a.m. Herculesfurdo . 8 28 ' Zimony . 5 42 „ Orsova 8 59 Belgrade . arr. 5 50 „ Verciorova (Cus (i Do. dep. 6 0 „ toms) .... arr. 10 7 T2aribrod(E. T.) arr. 2 12 p.m. Verciorova (E. E. T.) dep. 10 17 Do. dep.' 2 18 „ Turn-Severin . arr. 10 37 Sofia . arr. 4 24 „ Craiova .... dep. 1 12 ii.m. Do. dep. 4 34 „ Slatina arr. Sarambey . 8 19 „ Do. .... dep. 2 30 Philippopoli 9 37 „ 4 16 BUCHAREST . arr. 6 5 f Mustapha Facha . arr. 1 30 t -m. Do. dep. 6 15 t , Da. _ do. dep.! 1 40 CONSTANTZA . arr. 11 0 8 C « I Andriandple . arr. 2 33 Do. dep. 11 30 n p 3 -C 1 Do. dep. 2 38 CONSTANTINO CONSTANTINOPLE arr. 11 30 a.m. PLE .... arr.< in 30 .,. CONSTANTINOPLE TO LONDON, LEAVING CONSTANTINOPLE MONDAYS, WEDNESDAYS AND LEAVING CONSTANTINOPLE FRIDAYS. ON TUESDAYS AND SATURDAYS. .- , CONSTANTINOPLE dep. 1 4H p.m. 05 « ( CONSTANTINOPLE dep. CP (Eastern Enru^ean Time) % ./. z £ , Andrianople . arr. 9 55 H .% I CONSTANTZA . arr. Do. dep. lu / Do. (E. K. T.) dr|,. o Mustanha Facha 10 59 0 „o / BUCHAREST . arr. E yPhilippopoli . arr. 2 32 a.m. jjjm I Do. dep. Do. dep. 2 39 ,, Pitesci Sarambey . all'. 3 c5 Slatina ,. g Do. dep 4 52 2 '„H ^3 Craiova t' Sofia .... ;ut. : 51 „ Tum-Severin si . Do . dep. 8 6 ,, Veiciorova Zaribrod . arr. 8 52 „ 5 Do. ... Do. (C E. T.) . dep. 8 57 „ Orsova (Customs) pi i Nisch .... air. 10 53 „ 3 (C. E.T.) . Do . dep. 10 58 „ a Orsova >< BELGRADE . arr. 4 8 p.m. Herculesfurdo Do. dep. 4 n „ \ Temesvar .... 1 Zimcny (Semlin i 4 2i> „ Szegedin .... Szabadka (f rom Bosi ia)!., . 7 32 „ || /BUDAPESTH (Ouest) arr. Budapesth (West.) . air. 10 55 „ Do. do. dep. ; Do. do. dep. 1 0 a.m. POZONY (Pressburg) arr. Pozsony .... 5 39 „ Iio. do. dep. I VIENNA (Staatsb.) air. | 7 In VIENNA (Staatsb.) air. Connection to London also via the Oa tend- Vienna Express, depart 10.45 a.m. See jage si. VIENNA (\Vestb.)(C.E.T.)dcp. 8 30 Linz , ' 11 40 Attnang „ 12 45 p.m. Salzburg . 2 9 * The train leaves Munich 4 55 Chalons - snr - Man: Strasburg ,, 12 11 i for London, via Bou I gney- Avri court logne at 5.37 a.i (l,\ Customs) (F.