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Una Questione Transculturale

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Una Questione Transculturale QUADERNI CULTURALI IILA numero #due LA RAPPRESENTAZIONE DEL CIBO LATINOAMERICANO Una questione transculturale iila QUADERNI CULTURALI IILA numero #due LA RAPPRESENTAZIONE DEL CIBO LATINOAMERICANO Una questione transculturale iila Indice PREFAZIONE 5 Rosa Jijón INTRODUZIONE Chiara Stella Sara Alberti & Cristóbal F. Barría Bignotti Cucinare, mangiare, digerire: rappresentazioni del cibo latinoamericano in un contesto globale 7 Cocinar, comer y digerir: representaciones de la comida latinoamericana en un contexto global 15 SEZIONEI: MANGIARE Bananas: representaciones antagónicas en América Central y Estados Unidos 25 Rafael Climent-Espino Corn, Pope Leo X, and the New World in Giovanni Della Robbia’s Temptation of Adam and Eve 39 Barnaby Nygren SEZIONEII: CUCINARE Comida y sociedad: breve análisis de los libros de recetas mexicanos del siglo XIX 55 Adele Pia Villani La estética mexicana de la alimentación como sometimiento y liberación. De la Colonia a la Revolución 67 Alejandra Ortiz Castañares The contribution of Italian immigrants to the iconography of Brazilian Modernism: building national identity through the depiction of food 83 Claudia Mussi Torstillera in space and time: a Mesoamerican staple in colonial and contemporary art 101 Sheila Scoville SEZIONEIII: DIGERIRE ¿A qué sabe la cocina cubana traducida? 115 Stefano Tedeschi Lo que en la carne se conserva: identidad y patrimonio en Sudamérica en torno al corned beef 129 Eric Javier Markowski GLI AUTORI 141 Prefazione ell’agosto del 2018 abbiamo inaugurato la linea editoriale Quaderni Culturali IILA (Cua- dernos Culturales IILA) della Segreteria Culturale IILA. Il volume che ha aperto questo Nprogetto, un numero zero che ha raccolto gli atti del seminario internazionale“Cultura e sviluppo: una prospettiva italo-latinoamericana”, organizzato dall’IILA nel novembre del 2017 nel quadro delle celebrazioni per i 50 anni dell’Organizzazione, è stato il preludio di una serie di pubblicazioni monografiche con cadenza periodica. Questo impegno apre una nuova epoca per la gestione culturale dell’IILA, che dal 2016 si propone di essere non solo un’istitu- zione di promozione della cultura latinoamericana in Italia, ma anche una sede di riflessione teorica e produzione di pensiero critico sulle necessità e le classificazioni dell’arte dell’America Latina e della sua relazione con l’Italia. La produzione di questa collana editoriale persegue l’idea della divulgazione democratica del sapere. Quella dei bandi pubblici è, dunque, la modalità utilizzata per la raccolta dei testi, che vengono poi selezionati da un comitato scientifico che cambia di numero in numero, a se- conda della tematica proposta. Alcuni numeri presenteranno nuovamente gli atti di incontri o simposi organizzati dalla nostra istituzione, in collaborazione con enti e organismi culturali, pubblici o privati, così come con le accademie e le università dell’America Latina e dell’Italia. Altri numeri, invece, saranno monografie coerenti con le linee di ricerca e cooperazione del- l’IILA: patrimonio culturale, letteratura, industrie culturali, musica, teatro, educazione in campo artistico, architettura, solo per citarne alcune. In questo modo vogliamo creare una memoria istituzionale del lavoro realizzato nella Segre- teria Culturale, seguendo una tradizione di scrittura e divulgazione che all’IILA si è interrotta per molto tempo e che ora riproponiamo e affrontiamo come una nuova sfida. Pensiamo che la gestione pubblica della cultura debba fondarsi sull’ottimizzazione delle risorse, sulla tra- sparenza dei processi di divulgazione, selezione ed edizione dei testi, contribuendo, inoltre, al rafforzamento delle relazioni tra coloro i quali si occupano oggi di cultura latinoamericana. Allo stesso modo, vogliamo recuperare la nostra missione di depositari di documentazione e fonti primarie di studi latinoamericani in Italia, che è stata una dei punti forti della nostra Or- ganizzazione dalla sua fondazione. Nel gennaio 2020 è stato lanciato il bando per pubblicazione di testi sul tema“La rappresen- tazione del cibo latinoamericano: una questione transculturale”.Il cibo, al di là della sua fun- zione nutrizionale, assume una valenza culturale veicolando significati e informazioni relative alle condizioni mate riali, all’identità, allo status, alla cultura di un popolo o di un gruppo so- ciale. La tematica si ispira ad uno dei 17 Obiettivi dello Sviluppo Sostenibile che fanno parte dell’A- genda 2030 delle Nazioni Unite, ovvero il numero 2,“Sconfiggere la fame”.IILA, in quanto Os- servatore ONU, porta avanti queste tematiche nel proprio lavoro. 5 Quaderni Culturali IILA #2 è stato curato da Cristóbal F. Barría Bignotti, ricercatore alla Con- cordia University, e Chiara Stella Sara Alberti, dottoranda all’Università di Granada, che rin- grazio per l’enorme lavoro portato avanti. Abbiamo contato altresì su una squadra di revisori di altissimo livello, segno dell’interesse verso le nostre pubblicazioni e dell’importanza della serie da noi proposta. Questo terzo volume è il risultato di una ricerca rigorosa, che mira al consolidamento di una collana accademica e scientifica che apra nuove possibilità di relazioni tra il mondo accademico e gli operatori culturali, diventando un punto di riferimento per le fu- ture generazioni di appassionati e studiosi della cultura latinoamericana. Siamo felici di presentare un volume accurato e vario, che conta sull’apporto di intellettuali di rilievo, provenienti da università italiane e internazionali, così come di artisti e ricercato ri in- dipendenti che, lungi dal fornire una risposta alle problematiche che abbiamo proposto, con- tribuiscono alla creazione di una pubblicazione che fa emergere delle riflessioni sul rapporto storico degli scambi culturali tra Italia e America Latina, con la speranza di andare avanti con uno sforzo editoriale degno della nostra Organizzazione. Il 2020 è stato un anno difficile, in par- ticolare per il mondo della cultura e per gli operatori culturali. Non aver rin unciato alla realiz- zazione del numero 2, in piena pandemia COVID-19, è stata una grande sfida e abbiamo voluto comunque portare avanti tutto il processo di selezione, editing, revisione e pubblicazione del presente numero. Questo volume segna anche la fine del mio mandato come Segretario Cul- turale IILA, che è stato caratterizzato dalla produzione di pensiero critico, di elaborazione e divulgazione della conoscenza e rafforzamento del dialogo interculturale. Vi auguriamo una buona lettura! Rosa Jijón Segretaria Culturale IILA Roma, 15 dicembre 2020 6 Introduzione Cucinare, mangiare, digerire: rappresentazioni del cibo latinoamericano in un contesto globale Chiara Stella Sara Alberti Cristóbal F. Barría Bignotti no dei luoghi dove sperimentiamo nel quotidiano gli effetti del mondo globalizzato è la nostra tavola. Non sono più i piatti, ad esempio italiani, che fanno il giro del mondo Useguendo le ondate di coloni e migranti, ma prodotti provenienti da tutto il mondo che condividono gli scaffali dei supermercati e che ci permettono di preparare pietanze di varia provenienza (La Cecla, 2016; Nicolosi, 2006; Wilk, 2016). Anche i danni ambientali e so- ciali di un’industria alimentare sempre più globale sono entrati a far parte della nostra vita quotidiana. L’assunzione di manodopera a basso costo legata alla tratta internazionale degli schiavi, la privatizzazione di beni comuni come l’acqua, il furto della terra alle popolazioni in- digene e l’inquinamento causato dai trasporti intercontinentali, sono solo alcuni dei fenomeni legati a questa industria (Mintz 1986; Barndt, 2013). Occorre quindi osservare la questione dell’alimentazione secondo una prospettiva integrale, in cui si considerino i fenomeni tradi- zionalmente intesi come “naturali” anche come fenomeni “sociali”, visti, al tempo stesso, con uno sguardo locale e globale. Oltre alla sua funzione nutrizionale biologica, il cibo porta con sé una serie di connota- zioni sociali e simboliche come lo status, l’identità e la classe sociale della persona che lo pro- duce o lo consuma1. L’alimentazione è quindi un fenomeno complesso, un ibrido tra le categorie tradizionali di “naturale” e “culturale”, oltre ad essere attore partecipe nella defini- zione di queste categorie. Il rapporto tra ciò che mangiamo e ciò che intendiamo per cultura non è unidirezionale: non è il cibo a determinare la cultura, né l’atto del mangiare può essere “letto”come un atto meramente culturale. È un fenomeno a doppio senso in cui le nostre iden- 1 Sono numerose le discipline emergenti dedicate allo studio dell’alimentazione, del cibo, dei sa- pori, ecc. Citare tutti gli autori più significativi comporterebbe un’estensione eccessiva e si allontane- rebbe dai nostri propositi, tuttavia riteniamo sia importante citare alcuni dei campi disciplinari più rilevanti: tra gli altri, l’antropologia del cibo, gli studi sensoriali del gusto, la gastro-critica, i Food Studies, la sociologia del cibo, i Consumption Studies. 7 tità e le nostre relazioni con l’altro prendono forma man mano che mangiamo e gustiamo. In questo modo il cibo, la cucina, i modi di mangiare e i sapori costituiscono un prezioso oggetto di studio per comprendere le relazioni tra quelle che sono comunemente intese come culture diverse, in particolare quando vogliamo porre l’attenzione non solo sulla dimensione sociale o linguistica del fenomeno, ma anche sul modo in cui l’identità o l’altro viene“mangiato”,“cu- cinato”,“d igerito”.In questo numero della rivista vorremmo proporre una riflessione su come il cibo
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