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Home , Kaifi Azmi, Manish Malhotra, Urmila Matondkar

THE DESIGNER AND STYLIST EXTRAORDINAIRE TALKS TO HELLO! ABOUT THE RENEWED VIGOUR IN HIS CREATIVE TRAJECTORY, IN AN INDUSTRY THAT IS CONTINUOUSLY REINVENTING THE PAST FOR THE FUTURE

n the Yash Chopra and school Iof thought, if it’s all about romance and loving your family, then thanks to Manish Malhotra it’s also about doing it in sexy chiffon sarees, halter blouses and sharply tailored, preppy suits. Over the past 21 years, this fashion chameleon has won over 37 awards, styled and designed for 1,000 films – most being the biggest blockbusters – and has a show calendar that’s daunting by any standards. Apart from his film commitments, this past year alone he’s shown new collections at the Delhi Couture Week, the Couture Week, Lakmé Fashion Week, the Sahara Bridal Week and Dubai Fashion Week. Wealthy NRIs make special trips to to buy his creations, while Sheikhas from the Middle East fly him over in business class and pamper him at the Four Seasons while he designs their wedding trousseaus. Along the way, he’s discovered a new aesthetic – more refined and restrained – and a social cause that’s given his creative spirit new drive and vitality. HELLO! meets ’s favourite designer in an early morning tête-à-tête over idli-sambhar – he’s extremely health conscious! – to discover more about his creative journey.

It’s been over 20 years since you’ve been in fashion. How did it all start for you? “Growing up, I was crazy about the movies. I don’t think I cried for anything else in my life except for that! My mother also encouraged my passion by taking me to the cinema every weekend. It’s been the biggest influence in my life. I wasn’t a very good student in college but I used to sketch a lot. Then I started doing print modelling in 1989 and that got me interested in the world of clothes. I also did a stint as a salesboy in a boutique called Equinox in Bandra and “Travel is a huge influence learnt a lot about cutting and tailoring there. on me. It’s been my biggest I really enjoyed the experience, in fact, as study. I love visiting new I’d sit with the tailors often when they were cities, sit in cafés and people- doing alterations. This inspired me to turn watch…see how they dress costume designer for the movies.” and style themselves,” says Tell us a about those initial years. Manish. A lover of all things “The late 80s saw a complete debacle of cinematic, he’s collected fashion and style in films, and around scores of vintage movie that time the National Institute of Fashion posters on his travels, which Technology (NIFT) and Ensemble had form the backdrop of his started. I remember designers like Manoviraj Bandra office terrace. He Khosla, Tarun Tahiliani, Rohit Bal, etc being wears a striped shirt by stocked at Ensemble and I was really Giorgio Armani with a John inspired. I wanted to make a name Varvatos waistcoat, Dior 180 denims and Burberry belt 181

HELLO! APRIL 2011 HELLO! APRIL 2011 ‘When I turned 40, something inside me changed. Today, I value relationships and myself more. My work has also changed. It has become more confident’

for myself in fashion and be stocked at a life. I’ve built a solid relationship with them For men, I showcased sharply tailored store like that, but because I didn’t have over time. Nowadays, designers pay stars to bandhgalas, short sherwanis and kurtas formal training in fashion and I didn’t walk for them. They have nothing to do with paired with slim pants, Jodhpuri trousers, have money to study abroad, I figured the each other otherwise, and that’s really sad. churidaars, and Pathani salwars. I used a movies would be a good place to start. I As far as I’m concerned, it’s a done trend lot of traditional crafts apart from crochet hired two tailors and started approaching now so I don’t do it anymore.” and lace in this collection and a lot of directors and producers. In the beginning What about your label Manish Malhotra? people have been telling me it’s a different it was really tough because most of them “It’s been over six years since I launched my aesthetic, which I really appreciate. In fact, would give me the ‘Who the hell are you own label and I couldn’t be happier with another thing I did this time is keep the and what are you doing here?’ look. There where I am today. I’ve experimented a lot, show time just 10 minutes. I wanted it to be was no concept of styling for a character even doing Prêt and western wear, but in efficient. I’m a serious stickler for time… back then, but slowly I started working the last four years I’ve only concentrated on maybe that’s why I can manage so many with actors like , Namrata glamorous Indian wear. I think I’ve finally things in a single day!” Shirodkar and . I got very busy once come into my own as a designer. There Yes, you called us at 8.00 am for I started working with Sridevi because she was a time when I was intimidated, but I the shoot! was the reigning star of the time. I learned think I’ve proved myself time and again. I “I honestly think starting the day early a lot from her because while I knew about know what people come to me for. Why ape is the best thing you can do for yourself. fashion, she knew what worked for her and western designers when I know we’ll never Also, I always respect people’s time and what worked for the big screen.” be able to do a gown as well as they do? They never walk in late for a meeting. Or with And then Rangeela happened. can’t do what we do here too, so I prefer to an entourage, for that matter. I believe “Yes. Before Rangeela came along, directors stick to know what I know best. The world that if you want to give me respect you wouldn’t even discuss the script. Ram Gopal is looking at India today, so I want to show must give it to me on my own esteem and Varma was probably the only director who them what we can do with our traditional not because of these starry accoutrements. gave me the entire script before filming! crafts and silhouettes – that we can make By walking in late I’m only proving my This allowed me to create looks that them modern and sexy with our Indianness unprofessional ways and not my stardom. would go well with ’s very much intact.” I think I’m the only designer who is at my character. I think Rangeela was the first fittings half-an-hour earlier!” time somebody had actually “styled” a film, Going back to your collection, tell us about and that was validated when I won the first ‘I’ve proved myself time and your association with Mijwan and how it ever award for Costume Design. again. Apart from my friends came about. Then I worked on in 1995 “I first heard about the Mijwan Welfare and revamped Karisma Kapur’s image and in Bollywood, I’ve designed Society when I did a fundraising show there was no looking back.” with last year. It’s an NGO In hindsight, what do you make of this clothes for international founded by her late father Kaifi Azmi to experience with the movies? stars like Michael Jackson, empower the girl child from Mijwan – a tiny “I always knew I wanted to be a filmmaker or village of only 540 people near Azamgarh a fashion designer. If you love something so Reese Witherspoon and in . I was introduced to the much, it gives you everything in return. It’s chikankari work done by the girls there the truth of my life. The film industry has Naomi Campbell. Today I’m and was amazed by their skills. I’ve wanted given me so much; I saw the world with the to do some socially responsible work for movies. And I started so many trends that I a household name. I couldn’t a while now, and Mijwan provided the know I’ll be remembered for. It’s been 21 have asked for more in life’ perfect opportunity. What I’ve done is years since I’ve been in the business and adopt the village for a year to begin with, looking back I realise that I’ve never been and have given my embroidery work to the free…I’ve always been busy! However, the What would you say is your signature girls. This is not an act of charity; the girls biggest thing for me today is that I’m still aesthetic today? get a means of livelihood and it gives me relevant to the younger audience. I’ve “In the past year, I’ve really focused on moving the opportunity to showcase the best of moved with the times and people respect my brand from an eveningwear/wedding what India has to offer to the world.” me for what I bring to the table. I’m styling label into an authentic Indian luxury brand. What’s next for you? young stars like , Deepika Manish Malhotra today represents Indian “I’m consciously working towards making Padukone, Imran Khan, , luxury in terms of volume, richness of fabric my brand more accessible to people in …I bring a certain amount of and embellishment – the bandhgala, the other cities and countries. I need to work freshness and glamour to their on-screen kalidaar kurta, the saree. Indian culture has on my production so that I am able to characters. Today, directors don’t just call so much to offer in terms of colour, fabrics, stock more. On the film front, I’m really me to style Indian characters, but preppy techniques and craftsmanship and I’m excited about Rockstar with Ranbir Kapoor young ones as well. I’m still excited by the showcasing all of that with my label.” and Fakhri. There’s also Bodyguard movies, and I think that shows!” What about your latest collection? Tell us a with , Short Term Shaadi We can actually credit you for creating this little bit about it. with Imran Khan and RA.One with SRK. Bollywood Showstopper trend at fashion “It was for Summer/Resort 2011 and I’ve wanted to direct a movie for the last “I love meeting brides and shows, can’t we? comprised of 40 looks for both men and five years. The script is ready – it’s going grooms and discussing their “That was way back in 1999 when I did my women. The collection is big on chikankari to be a fun, glamorous, young commercial wedding looks with them. It’s first show and Urmila Matondkar walked and Kashmiri embroidery and has a very film – and Karan Johar has shown interest a real joy. Also, I’ve started as my showstopper. All the stars who have summery feel to it in terms of the colours in producing it. I just have to make the doing a lot of menswear the walked for me over the years – be it Shah with shades of aqua green, powder blue, grey time to start work on it soon!” H past two years, as a lot of Rukh Khan, Kareena Kapoor, Saif Ali and ivory. For women there were voluminous grooms keep coming to me TEXT: ZAHRA KHAN for suggestions on what to Khan, , , Aishwarya Rai lehengas, kalidaar kurtas in net with silver zari PHOTO: RYAN MARTIS Bachchan – know me and my work. They’ve work, floor length kurtas teamed with flared MAKE-UP & HAIR: RECINDA MARTIS wear!” says Manish. He wears worn my clothes in the movies and in real lehengas, and of course, sheer anarkalis. STYLING: RITI BHASIN a Burberry shirt, Dior denims 182 and a Gucci leather belt 183

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