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The Amish Veil: Symbol of Separation and Community Jana M. Hawley Kansas State University

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The Amish Veil: Symbol of Separation and Community Jana M. Hawley Kansas State University View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by K-State Research Exchange The Amish Veil: Symbol of Separation and Community Jana M. Hawley Kansas State University In, J. Heath (Ed.) The Veil: Women Writers on Its History, Lore, and Politics. University of California, Berkley (2008). In June of 1991, I packed the U-Haul candy on a kerosene stove, drive truck with my personal belongings and thousands of miles (55,000 in one year!) my 10 and 11 year old boys and moved as a “taxi” driver for the Amish who to Jamesport, Missouri where I was would hire me to take them places, make going to do a year of participant cider on an oak hand press, feed horses, observation research living among the take the Amish women Christmas Old Order Amish. It was perhaps the shopping in Kansas City, work in an most peaceful, reflective, and revealing Amish-owned store, and quilt with year of our lives. That year resulted in women on several quilting projects. lifelong friendships with several Amish friends that I remain in contact with to By the end of the year I had attended this day. As time has passed, some Amish birthday parties, church services, changes in dress have occurred, but very auctions, weddings, “singings”, few. volleyball games, work bees, quilt frolics, hospital visits, barn raisings, and When one lives with a group of people a multitude of more routine daily chores. outside of one’s own culture for an Over the year I gained a mutual respect extended period of time, we learn about of the Amish, a remarkable degree of all kinds of things about that group. acceptance, and a profound Although my research question had to do understanding of their world view, social with business practices, I learned and structure, and level of technology. have written about many other aspects of Amish life. Amish History and Culture In order to facilitate acceptance with the The Amish are a large Christian-based Amish, I adjusted my normal group whose core values focus on appearance, foregoing makeup and jeans separateness from the world, and adopting plain skirts and blouses. commitment to tradition, family, and Because I had grown up on a Kansas community. These values have set them farm I was given a measure of apart from the rest of the world, making legitimacy that gained me quicker them a curiosity for many Americans access. It was only a short time after I and this curiosity has caused the media had arrived that I found myself helping to make them the subject of movies, my new Amish friends make bread on a news stories, and even reality TV. wood-burning oven, wash clothes in a diesel-powered washing machine, make The Amish are a permutation of the 16th the authority of the state (Hostetler, century Swiss Anabaptist movement that 1993). was part of the Protestant Reformation in Switzerland, Germany, and France. They The Old Order Amish are located in believed that church and state should be rural communities throughout North and separate and that the final authority for Central America. Each Amish Christianity was the Scripture. For these community is unique with its own set of beliefs, they were often violently rules called the Ordnung (pronounced persecuted in Europe so they escaped to ott-ning). Outsiders have difficulty the United States in the late 1600s and understanding why Amish from some settled in William Penn’s religious communities might use tractor engines freedom area near Lancaster, mounted on a flat-bed wagon to power Pennsylvania. Since then, they have the farm equipment and facilitate the migrated to other rural areas throughout work load while another Amish the continent, primarily Ohio, Indiana, community strictly enforces the use of Missouri, and Iowa. The Amish migrate only horse-drawn power. Another Amish for two primary reasons: (1) schisms community might allow a transistor among the members regarding radio in the barn while other orthodoxy/progressiveness, and (2) the communities strictly forbid any radios. search for viable farmland away from These variances are due to community- congested urban encroachment so that specific rules of the Ordnung resulting in the agrarian integrity can be maintained. a continuum of orthodox Amish (Old Today many of the Midwest Amish have Order) on one end and progressive little social or ideological connection Amish (Beechy Amish) on the other end. with the Pennsylvania Amish and, as a The Amish often compare their own result distinct differences have evolved. Amish district to other districts as “higher” or “lower.” It is these varying Despite predictions, the Amish have not rules that also explain the variations in assimilated into the dominant American Amish dress that I will discuss below. culture, nor has their population become smaller over the years. Instead, their Regardless of community-specific large family sizes and relative small details of the Ordnung, the values that attrition has resulted in a population rule daily life of the Amish include (a) growth that has gone from more or less modesty and stewardship toward 6,000 in 1900 to approximately 200,000 personal property, and self, (b) sharing today. of wealth through an intricate system of mutual aid, (c) a dedicated work ethic Amish often refer to themselves as plain. that focuses on farm life, and (d) a Their primary tenets of faith include commitment to thrift (Hawley, 2005). rejection of violence, submission of the Through dress, lifestyle, horse and individual members to the authority of buggy culture, language, appearance, the Amish community, the development and technological simplicity the Amish of self-sustaining agricultural lifestyle in have established a determined boundary a commitment of stewardship of the maintenance that keeps them separate land, refusal of infant baptism, and from the world so that they can more independence of the Amish church from carefully manage their social control and “on the edge.” For the Amish, change therefore their existence. often occurs from either the young people who experiment during Amish Dress rumspringa, an institutionalized period of experimentation during adolescence For most Amish, their clothing for Amish youth, or by marginalized represents several dimensions of their Amish who are often found breaking the cultural values including nonconformity Amish rules. to the broader culture, humility, modesty, function, and group Similar to technological differences by conformity. Although the relative community, Amish dress also varies by orthodoxy of Amish dress varies from community and is based on the Ordnung one community to another and results in rules. For example, some Amish what outsiders see as a confusing communities require that Amish women breadth of acceptance for Amish dress, use straight pins to close their dresses Amish clothing has remained relatively while other Amish communities use unchanged for nearly a century. For men snaps for dress closures. When I lived in in the Old Order Amish, clothing Jamesport, a young girl was visiting consists of broadfall pants, suspenders, from an Amish community in Indiana high shoes and no zippers. Vests and where snaps were used to close the Sunday frocks use hooks and eyes and dresses. In Jamesport, straight pins were no buttons because buttons are seen as used. Concern from the elders prideful. The male hat is a shallow- immediately was raised because young crowned straw for the summer and for Jamesport girls were seen trying to “get work and felt for the winter and for by” sewing snaps onto their dresses. A Sundays. Dress for Old Order women special meeting was held and the girl consists of a white prayer cap made of from Indiana was told that if she did not organza, the black bonnet, a shawl, cape, remove all the snaps from her dresses apron, black stockings, and a dress. The and start using straight pins like the long dress, apron, and shawl are other girls in Jamesport, she would have intended to conceal the body, and the to go back to Indiana. This illustrates bonnet to follow the Biblical notion of one example of how social control is “shame-facedness.” exerted. Even though Amish dress has remained In some Amish communities, women are relatively unchanged for the past required to wear black shoes while in century, some new introductions have other communities sneakers are allowed been made, namely shoes, eyeglasses, except on Sundays. And in some Amish and headscarves for workdays. In communities, Amish men have a 3 ½ addition, Amish clothing has evolved inch brim on their hats while in other over time as outsiders interact with the communities the hat brims are only 2 ¾ Amish and as members of other Amish inches wide. These subtle, but communities visit from other states. Just community-specific rules, are controlled as in mainstream America, change by the Ordnung and are parallel to the usually occurs from those who are rest of the community’s relative level of “leaders” or in the case of the Amish, progressiveness. them gather their hats after their dinner, Amish dress serves as both a separator each man easily found his own hat from and identifier. As a primary tenet, the under the tree as if each were a different Amish strive to be separate from the color! world and believe that appearance serves as a constant reminder of their beliefs. These stories illustrate how outsiders They also believe that the church, rather lack the understanding of the subtle than the fashion designers and business differences in community identifiers; owners, should control identity. while insiders fully comprehend who Furthermore, the fashion system’s notion belongs to which community by simply of planned obsolescence contributes to reading the dress cues.
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