09 Changing 12 09 Changing London Changing London

AN HISTORIC CITY FOR A MODERN WORLD

NEXT ISSUE Continental Railways has delivered a world- SET LONDON’S SUBURBS TRANSPORT class station of which all are justifiably proud, London is a patchwork of planned urban TO RETURN? quarters and historic villages, each with its own London’s complex transport networks are the whilst on the one of the sense of identity, but an one which is increasingly product of many centuries of development and biggest conservation projects ever undertaken Built by Philip Hardwick in 1837, the either in replica, or reusing some of threatened. We take a look at some of the change, and further change is both necessary has seen many historic stations brought back to Euston Arch (seen here in 1934) the original material, could become issues they face. and desirable if London is to sustain its pre- their original splendour, but modernised so that was the first great monument of the a symbol of the regeneration of this eminence as a world city. However, some they are fit for purpose for the 21st century. Railway Age. Its demolition in 1962 entire quarter of London in the of London’s most important buildings have Similar challenges exist for our streets and amid bitter controversy was not just same way that the reconstruction a crucial operational transport function. a national scandal, but a landmark in of the Frauenkirche in Dresden has public spaces which we will need to adapt to Reconciling 21st century transport needs with the development of the post-war captured European imaginations. address changing needs and priorities, but the legacy of previous generations presents conservation movement. However, without losing the very qualities which make Reinstatement could provide the exciting challenges to those charged with the it is just possible that the Arch might them distinctive. same sort of ‘WOW’ factor for stewardship of London’s historic environment. return again as a part of the Euston that the refurbishment of the Conservation is about managing change so that redevelopment of Euston Station. Skill, expertise, design flair and understanding trainshed and hotel has generated are essential if the special qualities of these it reinforces rather than erodes local character next door at St Pancras. It could also buildings are to be maintained for future and distinctiveness. Always, the starting point become the focus of a fine cluster generations – all underscored by clear vision. is to understand the value of what exists of classical buildings around Euston and to ensure that this informs the whole Square and give the station a proper At St Pancras International an excellent process of change. presence in the townscape. working partnership over a 10 year period between English Heritage and London & It is a tall order for a redevelopment Philip Davies project which will have to generate sufficient funding to address a whole series of public demands – not least a new station, and a package of CONTACT DETAILS other public benefits. However, if it can be achieved, it would send To receive this publication regularly, please send in your address details to: out a powerful signal of national self-confidence in the future of Richard Dumville (Regional Policy Officer) London Region, English Heritage In response to public pressure led the railway network and the by Dan Cruickshank, the founder 1 Waterhouse Square, 138-142 regeneration of Britain’s cities. London, EC1N 2ST of the Euston Arch Trust (www.eustonarch.org), Network Rail EAST LONDON HERITAGE WEEK Alternatively you can e-mail us at [email protected] and British Land have adopted a AND TRAIL GUIDE thoroughly responsible approach The Heritage of London Trust and and are investigating both the cost Tower Hamlets are jointly hosting a heritage weekend on 13th/14th Additional copies can be obtained from English and feasibility of its resurrection. Heritage Customer Services – call 0870 333 1181 Much of the original stone was used September to reveal some of the Published by English Heritage to fill a hole in the Prescott Channel fascinating cultural treasures, looked after by local communities, but Managing Editor: Philip Davies of the River Lea, where it still Edited by Richard Dumville and Gordon Dulieu remains, whilst the ornamental not normally open to the public. Designed by Real 451 ironwork is in the National Railway Trail guides will be ready in the Printed by Colourhouse Museum,. summer. If you would like to All images © Richard Dumville/English Heritage except receive one, please send a stamped St Pancras International © Union Railways/Spheroview Ltd Preliminary studies have shown that self addressed envelope to St Pancras Poster © NRM – Pictorial Collection/Science it would be feasible to reconstruct The Heritage of London Trust, 38 & Society it, and that it would fit comfortably Ebury Street, London, SW1W OLU Capital Canals © British Waterways Boone’s Chapel © Research Design Architecture Ltd between the two listed lodges in (Tel: 020 7730 9472) Euston Square Gardens.There is no Gloucester Gate © Paul Cleghorn Public Lighting Ltd www.heritageoflondon.com. Big Ben © Transport for London 2005 CONTENTS 6 10 doubt at all that its reinstatement 2/3 Planning London’s Spaces Crossrail St Pancras Cover image: St Pancras Chambers and train shed 7 11 Kerb Appeal London updates Product code: EH 50943 4 Capital Canals 8/9 12 5 Underground Heritage The Euston Arch London Trams 09 Changing London 2/3

LONDON HAS A “NEW” RAILWAY STATION – ZÖE CROAD CELEBRATES “This was a huge and complex project on an heroic scale. None of what A SPECTACULAR MARRIAGE OF OLD AND NEW has been achieved would have been possible without the consistently good working relationship between English Heritage and all the parties involved”

The recent opening of the with nineteenth century warehouses The joinery of the ground floor magnificent new Eurostar station, and station buildings, albeit in a form shopfronts around the periphery of St Pancras International, is a perfect reworked to fit a 21st century the building has been repaired and example of how an historic building station. Where abandoned areas reinstated where missing, completing can be adapted sympathetically to of the original railway sidings the external appearance of the meet modern demands. As we and accommodation had to be historic building. will see, some of these adaptations removed in order to build a The conversion of the Midland were, by necessity, quite radical, new Thameslink station, the new Grand itself, to a 5-star hotel of yet these have added to rather station accommodation was rebuilt 245 bedrooms with residential than detracted from what makes alongside the original trainshed apartments on the upper floors – St Pancras so special. in matching brick and stonework, is well underway and will include All of this came about following the testing the skills of today’s craftsmen, a new extension over the former passing of the 1996 Channel Tunnel who produced some of the finest carriage sidings alongside the work ever seen in a contemporary Rail Link Act, which enabled the The accommodation adjoining trainshed on Midland Road.This has construction project. Four giant construction of both the new high- the trainshed on its east and west been designed by Richard Griffiths openings were cut in the original speed line from the Kent coast to sides has been refurbished to Architects to harmonise with Scott’s train deck in order to bring the the capital and improved interchange accommodate all the new ancillary original gothic detailing, but to clearly splendid, but hitherto unseen, between underground and mainline station functions, including major express its identity as a modern undercroft of the station into play services at King’s Cross and plant handling areas, the Eurostar addition to the building.The as the arrivals and departures area St Pancras stations (including three lounges and retail areas.The rebuilt restoration of the original decoration (once used to store beer barrels). new underground ticket halls). chimney stacks of the East Side of many of the public spaces within This necessitated some complex Buildings now function as ventilation the hotel will put the finishing English Heritage was involved from and delicate engineering work as extracts, and 15 new openings have touches to the long overdue the start of the design process, with the original traindeck formed a been made in the blind arches at the rehabilitation of St Pancras Station, the railway promoters, London & structural tie between the great north end of the west trainshed wall, which now marries 21st century Continental Railways, and their wrought and cast iron ribs forming creating new access points to the technology with the very best of the architects, Foster and Partners. Barlow’s original superstructure. The commencement of the detailed shops and restaurants. past, to provide an exciting new Although the original cast iron experience in sustainable travel. design process heralded the start of columns of the undercroft proved Forming a junction between the a close liaison between the railway (by testing) more than capable of new station roof and the north This was a huge and complex project engineering consortium (Rail Link sustaining the new train loadings, end of the Barlow trainshed was a on an heroic scale. None of what Engineering, English Heritage and additional connections needed to be particularly sensitive issue, but has has been achieved would have been Camden Council) which lasted made within the wrought ironwork been accomplished by the separation possible without the consistently throughout the 10 year construction of the original deck beneath the of the two main roofs by a good working relationship between period. Every detail of the platform wells to comply with transitional area of glazing, with its English Heritage and all the parties restoration and alteration of William modern safety standards. own articulation, partly supported by involved.The results of this close Barlow’s magnificent grade I listed the wrought ironwork of the Barlow co-operation speak for themselves, The original form of the ‘ridge and train shed (1865-68) was considered shed end screen.This has ensured and William Barlow would surely furrow’ glazing to the trainshed roof carefully, and detailed advice given that views out of the original approve of this successful marriage has been restored, with some minor on many technical aspects of the trainshed at platform level remain of old and new, ensuring that a ST PANCRAS scheme, from major engineering adaptation to ensure it remains railway station built some 140 years unencumbered by new structure. issues to the appropriate colour for weathertight, and the access ago is now once again at the The new Western Ticket Hall the repainted ironwork. walkways and balustrades above the forefront of modern travel. roof have been remade to emulate connecting the International station The extension to the station – their original patterns.The entire to the existing underground REBORN doubling its original length in order roof has been re-slated, using some interchange has been inserted  to accommodate the 400-metre long 300,000 Welsh slates (see above). beneath the forecourt of Sir George Eurostar trains – did not seek to Gilbert Scott’s grade I listed former www.stpancras.com The overall benefits of these emulate Barlow’s original clear-span Midland Grand Hotel (1868-76) alterations to the station layout and www.highspeed1.com/ ‘pointed’ arch, but took a deliberately at the front of the station. New function can readily be appreciated http://stpancras.eurostar.com/en-gb/ contrasting form in concrete, steel openings beneath the hotel lead when the soaring roof structure www.stpancraschambers.co.uk/ and glass.The form of the new roof, directly into the undercroft, through is viewed from the International Midland Railway poster of 1910 with its Vierendeel trusses, does a wall that has been reclad in http://viewfinder.english- Concourse and the extensive clear heritage.org.uk/ however have some affinity with the matching brick and stonework, glazing allows sunlight to penetrate north-light roofs so often associated and a new vaulted transitional space. to the areas of the undercroft. 09 Changing London 4/5

ALAN JOHNSON LOOKS AT THE CONTINUING TRAMS MAY SOON BE REINTRODUCED IN REJUVENATION OF LONDON’S CANALS AS A CENTRAL LONDON. GRAHAM SAUNDERS SUSTAINABLE TRANSPORT AND LEISURE NETWORK CONSIDERS SOME OF THE ISSUES THIS RAISES

‘By surviving into a more environmentally conscientious age, canals can now offer the CAPITAL potential to move large or heavy loads for a LONDON TRAMS: fraction of the energy consumed in road or CANALS rail transport’ BACK ON TRACK?

London cannot claim to be the first greater investment in recent years Trams were an important part of use on aesthetic grounds, insisting existing urban environment, and to English city to build a canal network, has enabled a welcome and radical London’s character for nearly a that the trams be powered by respond to it positively, rather than but the circuitous journey dictated change of approach with BW century.The first horse-drawn tram conduits below street level. simply being imposed upon it.This by using the Thames to bring goods promoting the canal network as both was introduced in 1861, running includes such elements as overhead Throughout the U.K. and in Europe from the north caused a more direct important for leisure pursuits and along Victoria Street, followed by power equipment, signalling, depots, the tram has enjoyed a renaissance route by canal to be promoted domestic tourism and a significant the first electric tram in 1901, from platforms, signage, and surface as city authorities have before the end of the 18th century. asset to the wider historic Hammersmith to Kew Bridge. materials. As the proposed CRT rediscovered their benefits in By 1800 much of the Grand Junction environment. A Head of Heritage, The capital was soon served by an route goes through many historic moving people and helping Canal was complete throughout its and team of local heritage specialists, extensive network and trams were spaces and passes many landmark regeneration. London is no 93-mile course between Braunston ensures consistency of practice synonymous with the street-scene buildings, this should offer an different. Following their success at in Northamptonshire and Brentford, across all their waterways and also of many of London’s principal opportunity to secure significant Croydon, the Mayor is keen to use with a branch leading to Paddington produces an annual State of the thoroughfares, including several public investment to enhance trams as a key component of the in 1801. An immediate success, Waterways Heritage report to Thames bridges, until the last London’s public streets and spaces capital’s future public transport Paddington was soon very busy, with monitor progress in their continuing service ran in 1952. It was a further with good, high quality design. network.The Cross River Tram Kingsway Tram Tunnel goods being carried on carts to care. In 2005 BW published clear 48 years until the tram was seen Some of the best examples of this (CRT) is a major project now being other parts of the city. By 1820 the policy and principles defining its role again on the Croydon Tramlink in integrated approach can be found planned, to link Camden Town to “…an opportunity to Regent’s Canal extended navigation in safeguarding the special character 2000. It is still possible to see in France where a new generation Waterloo with branches to eastwards to Limehouse and the and interest of the 200-year-old canal evidence of the old network, the secure significant public of tram technology has been Peckham and Brixton.This route canals were a prime mover of freight network, all underlying the enormous best example being the Kingsway investment to enhance applied, producing quality systems will go through the heart of until competition from the expanding effort necessary to conserve what is tram tunnel, where the listed that respect the urban and historic London via Euston, , London’s public streets rail network brought harder times. by far the largest historic estate entrance, ironwork and lanterns are context. Much can be learned Holborn and Aldwych crossing the and spaces with good, within central government. London to be restored with grant aid from from these. A 1928 merging formed the Grand Thames at Waterloo Bridge. now has many canalside locations English Heritage. An important high quality design” Union Canal Company, which In welcoming the move to that are highly valued for their feature of the previous network New tram links such as the CRT city developed over centuries, worked hard to modernise the reintroduce trams, and the benefits heritage interest and amenity. English was the absence of overhead lines bring with them both challenges making the introduction of a major system in the hope of competing that they can bring, it is vital that Heritage is working closely with Development around the Regent’s Canal, Kings Cross within inner London, as the London and opportunities for the historic transport scheme particularly with the railway and the growing the proposals are developed in BWB London’s Heritage Adviser, currently being built on the Prescott of our historic waterways, and the County Council prohibited their environment. London is a complex challenging. English Heritage threat from road transport.This was partnership with English Heritage Florence Salberter, in helping to Channel of the Bow Back Rivers in balance of different uses – from supports the reintroduction of only partially successful, and by the and other stakeholders including preserve and enhance this unique East London. Its main purpose is to leisure and transport to regeneration trams, but in so doing we believe end of WW2 Britain’s canals were local authorities, amenity societies attraction. create a “gateway” for large barges and biodiversity – which contribute that the needs of a successful worn out and most of them were and other heritage bodies to help entering the Olympic Park, allowing to their growing role in the life of network must be carefully balanced taken into public ownership in 1948. By surviving into a more ensure that the end result not only up to 1.75m tonnes of construction the capital. against the need to conserve and The former Grand Junction Canal environmentally conscientious age, provides a positive legacy for London materials to be brought in, thus enhance the capital’s historic was one of the last carrying canals can now offer the potential After more than two hundred years townscape, but also is one of which taking up to 170,000 lorry journeys environment – the listed buildings, commercial traffic, though this to move large or heavy loads for a of changing fortunes, London’s canals we can be justifiably proud. declined steeply through the 1950s. fraction of the energy consumed in off local roads. are facing a much brighter future. conservation areas, parks and road or rail transport and BW is Perhaps the most interesting gardens, historic squares and British Waterways (BW), a public archaeology which combine to corporation, is custodian of most of keen to promote this where it is development, and one which might   practical. One example is between offer a blueprint for local authorities define London’s unique character Britain’s canals. For many years BW www.britishwaterways.co.uk/london/ and sense of place. Chief amongst www.tfl.gov.uk/trams/ was forced, through lack of funding, Denham and West Drayton where to follow in other parts of the index.php these challenges is the need to www.croydon-tramlink.co.uk/ to maintain a barely operational carriage of aggregates by barge (the country, has been the development www.britishwaterways.co.uk/olympics/ ensure that the infrastructure is www.trolleybus.net/ht.htm network at lowest cost, a policy first major freight-transport contract of the Blue Ribbon Network (BRN) www.londoncanals.co.uk/ designed to fit sensitively within the which contributed to many people on the Grand Union Canal for more annex of the Mayor’s London Plan. www.londontramways.net/index.php www.canalmuseum.org.uk/ shunning or even abusing the than 30 years) commenced in 2003. The BRN recognises, perhaps for the Croydon Tramlink waterways and waterside. However, An exciting project is Prescott Lock, first time, the multi-functional nature 09 Changing London 6/7

PETER BISHOP, HEAD OF DESIGN FOR LONDON,TELLS THE ELEMENTS THAT MAKE UP LONDON’S STREETS ARE AN GORDON DULIEU OF HIS PASSION FOR LONDON’S INTRINSIC PART OF THE CAPITAL’S UNIQUE CHARACTER, PUBLIC SPACES BUT COMPETING DEMANDS ARE ERASING THIS SPECIAL QUALITY. PHILIP DAVIES AND DREW BENNELLICK LOOK AT THE ISSUE AND URGE A MORE CONSIDERED APPROACH

‘Shared space need not mean shared surfaces. We must learn from the mistakes of the recent PLANNING KERB APPEAL past and ensure that ……we do not end up creating swathes of flat sterile surfaces devoid LONDON’S of their current distinctiveness and character.’ SPACES

“London is not a pristine city,” says Programme is underway and it’s who cares passionately about the an initiator of informed debate, not spaces, which suffocated rather than Shared space need not mean shared Peter Bishop, Director of Design for fundamental to Londoners’ social, past and future of London’s historic so much as a management body.” reinforced local distinctiveness, and surfaces. Pavements and kerbs can London. “It has an ordered chaos economic and environmental well- built environment, we must give He gives the example of EH’s when placemaking was little be retained and roads surfaced in which makes it ‘London’. There are being. Consider Potters Fields – a parity to concepts of ‘planned’ involvement with ‘High Street 2012’, understood. We need to learn tightly-jointed setts or tarmacadam. infinite variations on a common major new public space (opened and ‘organic’. “London’s future a new addition to the 100 Public from these mistakes. It is the removal of all of the visual palette of materials – bricks, stucco, May 2007) between Tower Bridge environment relies on a sense of Spaces Programme.This aims to Yet the traditional elements of clutter associated with managing trees, green spaces – that create a and the London Eye. It adds to shared stewardship. Everyone must clarify the great thoroughfare from the street are crucial to London’s vehicles that is imperative. Kerbs unique character.” Londoners’ developing relationship take responsibility – public sector, Whitechapel through Bow to character. Functionally, kerb lines help to define routes and assist When it comes to renewal, Bishop with the River Thames.” At one private sector, everyone.” The Stratford High Street.“Clear the define vehicle limits, and channel with wayfinding and orientation, makes a strong case for the local time, the Thames was seen mostly planned Crossrail development clutter, reduce unnecessary signage surface water to drains, but visually particularly for blind and partially- procurement of materials.There is a by those passing across it, north and could have enormous impact on and street furniture, allow the they also emphasise the linear form sighted people.The shadow line danger that without sensitivity to the south. Now, riverside improvements all areas it traverses across the diversity of the buildings to reveal Covent Garden Market of the street and can eliminate the created by a raised kerb is a strong capital’s unique ‘palette’, it could have opened up new prospects of capital(see separate article).“On a themselves.This is the sort of need for bollards. Raised pavements visual signal to a partially-sighted resemble any other city. “Worse – it one of Europe’s great waterways. local level, the reconstruction of project where English Heritage can For over 20 years English Heritage established character of its public provide a plinth upon which the pedestrian. could become rather like a bad-taste Now, increasingly, people can walk the whole area around Tottenham be an exciting partner to have on has been in the vanguard of the realm. ‘Shared Space’ is coming buildings sit. Often there is a carefully Whilst we support the concept of living room!” alongside it.“One of London’s great Court Road and St Giles High board.Together, all of us can bring movement to promote best to London. composed proportional relationship shared space and its potential to hidden treasures has been revealed,” Street demands equally sensitive one of London’s grand approaches practice in street design based on a Pioneered in the Netherlands by remove clutter, it is vital to ensure Design for London brings together between the height of the buildings, believes Peter Bishop. co-operation between all vested back to life.” deep understanding of the qualities the late Hans Mondermann, shared that when designing shared surfaces teams from the Greater London the width of the pavement and the interests” the Design for London which make our streets and spaces space requires the removal of all the the traditional character, proportions Authority, the London Development What other areas exemplify width of the road, which confers a director suggests.  distinctive. In 1992 we worked street features that drivers associate and features of the London street Agency and Transport for London to London’s ability to ‘hide and reveal’? subtle harmony on an entire area. closely with City with vehicle priority, such as traffic are retained, and, where necessary, tackle the past mistakes of careless “Those little streets around the But he also sounds a warning: www.designforlondon.gov.uk This sense of visual order and Council on the linear improvement signals, road signs, guard rails and simply adjusted to meet new planning and poor building. So what British Museum – Coptic Street, “Over-control and over-prescription hierarchy was celebrated by Steen of The Strand establishing principles white/yellow lines.The theory is that challenges; for instance, by the use does Bishop see as major issues Museum Street – they’ve a peculiar can be counter-productive. We Eiler Rasmussen in his book London that have been adopted since by by cultivating uncertainty speeds of dropped kerbs. in the renewal of London’s public character. A planned grid, but their must assess each area and project – The Unique City as something progressive local authorities right are reduced and drivers act more realm? “Landmark buildings and vibrancy derives from the variety of individually. Let’s remember, the distinctive to London. Unfortunately, The design of London’s streets is across the country. In 2000 we responsibly, thereby reducing iconic spaces make their own shops and cafes that fill them.” This Italians have six words for ‘piazza’. it is so subtle that it is little an integral part of what makes it published Streets for All: A Guide accidents and enhancing pedestrian particular demands, but all quirky locality makes only a partial They are conscious of subtle understood or appreciated until distinctive as a great world city. It is to the Management of London’s priority. And it seems to work. streetscapes need careful concession to tourists en route to differences of function that should it is eradicated. essential that change is informed by the British Museum: “It’s almost as influence plans. We need to be Streets which encapsulated best The problem is that all too often a deeper understanding of the subtle management to provide an practice, since when nearly all From the mid-19th century onward appropriate, neutral background for if the Museum is hiding – coming conscious of that with a space this is being interpreted by less an established paving pattern qualities which make London special suddenly on that great façade is like Parliament Square.” London Boroughs have produced enlightened designers as shared – its kerb appeal. We must learn diverse neighbourhoods. We baulk their own guidance on street design. emerged in London with staggered at the cost. Cities like Barcelona and something of a shock.” London, for Bishop is emphatic that public space surface – a wall to wall ‘fitted carpet’ interlocking courses of York stone from the mistakes of the past and Bilbao have used local taxes to fund Bishop, has grown organically in must support what it encloses Edmund Bird, Heritage Advisor at London’s streets are an integral part of robust paving able to take and, later, rectangular concrete slab ensure that in our desire to improve their refurbishment plans.The ways that would be hard to plan appropriately – suburban town Design for London, is responsible for of its character, but their fundamental pedestrians and vehicles.Visually paving with tight joints.This created a our public realm we do not end up demands in London are much bigger, – and consequently development centre or iconic range of buildings. advising all of the GLA’s “family” design has changed little. For about this is proving disastrous as the calm, neutral and uncluttered setting creating swathes of flat, sterile more complex – but money is key.” must be treated with sensitivity and “Of course there’s no ‘great space’ (such as Transport for London) on 200 years the established division of established framework of the street for the surrounding buildings.The surfaces devoid of their current Then there is the issue of control. understanding. He has countless without great buildings around it – heritage matters. Created to ensure pavement, kerb and carriageway has – pavements, kerbs, channels and problem with shared surfaces is that distinctiveness and character. “Partnership is vital. All interested other examples. but we must constantly ask that heritage aspects play a key role been a constant despite changes in carriageways, and their subtle large York stone or concrete slabs  parties must work together – very How do we balance local needs and ourselves just what is the function in the development of major traffic volumes, vehicle types, size proportional relationships are and shared use do not mix. Often much an area where English Heritage perceptions with over-riding ‘city- of the place we are planning for.” infrastructure and public realm and speed. However central London eradicated.There is a real risk of bollards, planters, lamp posts and www.guidedogs.org.uk/sharedsurfaces schemes, this post is jointly funded is now beginning to witness a repeating the mistakes of the 1970s has a role as enabler.” wide’ plans? “With difficulty – A particular role for English signs are used to prevent vehicle www.english-heritage.org.uk/server/ by English Heritage and the London revolution in street design which when wall to wall concrete block show/conWebDoc.4402 Strategies continue to develop. although we’re better now than we Heritage here? “The unique overrun – yet more clutter. Development Agency. poses a considerable challenge to the paving schemes created bland sterile “The Mayor’s 100 Public Spaces were ten years ago on.” For Bishop, character of English Heritage is as 09 Changing London 8/9

LONDON’S UNDERGROUND HAS LONG BEEN ASSOCIATED WITH ENLIGHTENED LEADERSHIP WHICH HAS PIONEERED INNOVATIVE NEW ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN. ITS CURRENT STATION REFURBISHMENT PROGRAMME IS ONE OF THE LARGEST AND MOST SUCCESSFUL CONSERVATION PROGRAMMES EVER UNDERTAKEN IN BRITAIN. MIKE DUNN REPORTS

Southgate Station 

For more on Conservation Principles see UNDERGROUND HERITAGE: www.english-heritage.org.uk/server/show/ nav.9181 www.ltmcollection.org/photos/index.html PRESERVING A DESIGN ICON For a wealth of info on the tiles see www.dougrose.co.uk/ www.designmuseum.org/designinbritain/ london-transport www.charlesholden.com/

London Underground (LUL) has we know it today are once again station in London. Since 2001 not in line with LUL’s current vision ‘archaeological evidence’. The work, building, its overall design. English historic underground stations. The results of this approach, which at its core a section of the oldest at the core of the refurbishment we have advised on over 400 or their commitment to customer apart from being difficult and costly, Heritage’s newly published Where original tiling survives in have been piloted on unlisted, underground system in the world. campaign that is currently applications to listed stations. care.We and local authorities are left a visually discordant patchwork Conservation Principles (see info good condition in large panels, it but historically significant Holden It retains a remarkable estate of transforming the tube. Pick’s design Most of these are straight forward, thus faced with the question of of new, old and repaired tiles and an box) are helpful in this regard, will be retained. However, in other stations such as Bethnal Green buildings and structures of heritage commitment to ‘fitness for purpose’ which is why in 2005 we explored whether historic (albeit worn and inconsistent palette of colours and as they emphasise the need to cases restoring the design integrity and Wanstead, have proved highly significance. Iconic symbols such is embedded in LUL’s current vision with LUL and the DCMS the damaged) tiles and faience should tones. Questions were also raised maintain the integrity of the overall of an historic station might require successful. Both now appear more as the red and blue roundel and to be a ‘world class tube for a world potential for such applications to be replaced wholesale, or whether about the integrity of cold resin design concept when design value the wholesale replacement of original than at any time since they linear route map are universally class city’. The physical works that be dealt with by means of Heritage they are of such significance in their repair, which effectively replaces forms the primary significance of original tiles. LUL is committed to were built, and their design integrity synonymous with London. Many follow on from this vision present Partnership Agreements (HPAs). own right as to merit conservation the surface of the tile, including its a place, as is the case with most restoring such surfaces as close to has been restored.This has of the 57 stations listed for their certain challenges to managing The results of a pilot project, which or repair in situ. original colours, textures and glazes. historic underground stations. the original specification as possible, demonstrated that the philosophy architectural and historic interest change to the listed stations of focussed on three listed Holden It has long been acknowledged that Whilst the Turnpike Lane approach Following this experience, we and requiring meticulous attention to of ‘preserve as found’ is not always reflect the corporate brand of the the network. English Heritage is stations on the , design and corporate identity are undoubtedly preserved original LUL have worked closely together detail, often using hand produced the best way of safeguarding the Underground in their architecture, in a unique position to guide this demonstrated that HPAs could be central to the history, architecture fabric, it failed to acknowledge the to agree on an approach that best tiles by the original manufacturer, special interest of London’s historic fittings, furniture and equipment. change, as we have a special an ideal mechanism for managing and special interest of London primary significance of the listed sustains the significance of London’s glazes and craftsmanship. underground stations. The combination of these elements responsibility to provide advice routine and straight forward change Underground stations. Fundamental is particularly noteworthy in the on every listed building consent to listed stations in a consistent way to this identity is aesthetic quality. faience fronted stations of application relating to a railway without having to go through the The stations from the turn of Leslie Green (1906-07) and even “the philosophy of listed building consent process. the 20th century onwards were more so in the famous Charles ‘preserve as found’ is not There are other types of proposed designed to represent speed, Holden stations of the 1920s-30s. changes, however, which present efficiency and fitness for purpose, Holden’s stations, in particular, always the best way of real conservation challenges, both and decorative exterior and interior reflect a remarkably creative period safeguarding the special physical and philosophical. A good surfaces reflected these principles in its history when, under the aegis interest of London’s example of this is the treatment of through a combination of colour, of the managing director Frank Pick, historic underground decorative faience and ceramic tiles. smooth and consistent finish a commitment to the highest Each of the two most prevalent and close bonding. Damage and standards of design permeated stations” types of listed stations on the deterioration to these surfaces has, every aspect of the organisation. network made extensive use over the years, undermined their They demonstrate in their stripped of decorative tiles and faience. aesthetic, and therefore design, classical style the approach of The Edwardian oxblood faience quality. LUL, with our support, combining architectural and exteriors and decorative banded tile recognises that restoring the design corporate design to show the interiors of Leslie Green’s stations, integrity of these historic stations organisation as a civilising and and the more geometrically relies on sustaining or re-creating unifying agency that delivered its arranged and muted tiles used for the high quality interior and exterior services to the highest standards. the interior of Charles Holden’s all finishes that historically embodied Holden’s stations achieved that formed part of the corporate image the corporate identity of London and much more; it is now widely at that time.Tiles and faience are Underground. accepted that stations such as Arnos of considerable significance to the Early attempts at retaining and Grove, Southgate and Oakwood, special architectural and historic repairing worn and cracked tiles in represent some of Britain’s most interest of many historic stations. situ were not successful. At Turnpike important and influential ‘modernist’ Unfortunately often they are in Lane (Holden,1932, grade II), heavily buildings and are arguably of poor condition as a result of damaged tiles were replaced or international significance. intensive passenger use, poor quality repaired on an individual basis, The principles that created the repairs or simple deterioration. leaving the majority of the worn identity of London Underground as Damaged or deteriorating tiles are originals in situ, rather like 09 Changing London 10/11

WITH WORK ON CROSSRAIL LIKELY TO START IN 2010 – RICHARD DUMVILLE MAKES A PLEA FOR THE DESIGN OF THE NEW STATIONS TO ENHANCE THE ENTIRE URBAN REALM AROUND THEIR HISTORIC LOCATIONS

“The new stations provide an unparalleled CROSSRAIL: MORE opportunity for major LONDON contributions to the civic THAN JUST A NEW quality of each of the UPDATES RAILWAY places served”

London relies heavily on its extensive rouse. For all of us a station becomes Corner of Oxford Street and TWO “AT RISK” BRIDGES SAVED FITZROY SQUARE REFRESHED public transport network, a legacy an important part of our relationship Tottenham Court Road Resolving buildings at risk requires Our London Squares campaign is about to achieve another inherited from forward thinking with the area the railway serves, unwavering commitment and resounding success.We are working in partnership with Camden earlier generations. Recent times whether we are regular daily decisive leadership. Council to transform the public areas of the Square, and enhance have seen it become run down, commuters or tourists. It becomes Two of London’s most neglected the setting of the surrounding grade I and II* listed buildings. but now, with new energy and ideas a significant part of its city quarter listed bridges are being repaired and A grant of £100,000 toward the initial phase of work will see from Transport for London (TfL), it is and influences its future. Its design reinstated as part of partnership the inappropriate 1970s surfaces to the footways and roadways much better managed.The continuing influences our relationship to the act projects led by English Heritage. At removed and the area landscaped with York Stone paving to success of London as a World City of being transported on the railway. Mornington Street Railway Bridge the perimeter footways and bonded gravel elsewhere.Works and the growth in population and It also has a life expectancy near Euston Station two pairs of commenced on site in March 2008. activity, demands that our care and considerably greater than many stone bridge piers with ornamental investment in public transport is buildings, so it has to work well lamp standards are being refurbished with bronze plaques, statuary, increased substantially.The recent for us and future generations. and their original lanterns reinstated. terracotta medallions and LEWISHAM GEM RESTORED The Blackheath Historic Buildings announcement that Crossrail is to What has emerged in the work An English Heritage grant of £12,000 extravagant lamp standards. Over Trust is undertaking a £500,000 proceed (subject to Parliamentary done so far by Crossrail and their to Camden Council, and similar the years much of this was lost and restoration of Boone’s Chapel in approval) is, therefore, very welcome team is that for the central tunnelled grants from the Railway Heritage the bridge suffered vehicle damage. Lewisham, a grade I listed building news. It will have major beneficial section from Paddington to the Isle Trust and Heritage of London Trust, Now decisive action by English dating from 1682. Built to serve influence on the capital as a whole of Dogs each of the new stations will may be fragile under major this, the surrounding urban quality will transform this long-neglected Heritage has saved the day. A grant the adjacent Merchant Taylors’ and in particular on the areas where serve radically different places.The development pressure. needs to be addressed by the local structure by June 2008. Gloucester of £75,000 is funding repairs to the the stations are sited. authorities working with property Gate Bridge, nearby, was built bridge, reinstatement of the stolen Company almshouses, it has been surface stations which are mostly The station at Bond Street will help owners.The pressure from increased in 1837 over the now infilled plaques, the refurbishment of the on English Heritage’s Buildings at The design of a new station in a city integrated with existing suburban to support Oxford Street as Britain’s values should be harnessed to Cumberland Basin of the Regent’s original lamp standards and the Risk register for almost 20 years. or suburb is a challenging task. It is rail stations are more consistent, premier shopping street.Tottenham support an improved public realm. Canal. When built, it was regarded as reintroduction of globe lanterns Assisted by lottery funding and far more than just the mechanics and regular patterns of design will Court Road is similar, but here it will The challenge is to use the the finest bridge in London enriched to the original designs (see above). a grant of £65,000 from English of getting people on and off trains be possible and desirable for some. trigger the reworking of the appalling enormously powerful regenerative Heritage, this very fine, but relatively quickly and in large quantities.What However, the urban form and urban layout around Centre Point impact of this major new English Heritage’s Greater London Archaeology Advisory Service little known building will serve as many do not realise is that Crossrail character of each of the eight major and provide real opportunities to infrastructure so that the wider (GLAAS) now has its own pages on the EH website – offices for an architectural practice. trains will be longer and broader tunnelled stations is very different as improve low value areas like New benefits are fully realised.This visit www.english-heritage.org.uk/server/show/nav.8900 See www.blackheath.org/bhbt.htm than the tube trains we know. Initially are the engineering and townscape Oxford Street. they will have ten carriages with constraints. requires creative partnerships All the stations require some site between the many different bodies Whitecross Street, one of London’s £900,000 towards public realm platforms designed to take twelve Crossrail will bring benefits to a clearance to create new entrances and private owners which are WHITECROSS STREET MARKET oldest street markets, has been given improvements, regenerating the carriages later.They will deliver more much wider area than the immediate and ventilation shafts. Fortunately beginning now to be formed. a new lease of life with funding from market (which has now launched people than a tube train with less vicinity of the new stations, and local very few good existing buildings English Heritage, Islington Council, a Friday and Saturday food market crush and, in the central tunnelled authorities and English Heritage will Cities are like complex living are being lost and, amazingly, only EC1 New Deal for Communities drawing stalls from across the U.K.) section, will run at two minute need to be proactive in harnessing organisms and transport infra- one grade II listed building on Dean and TfL. Established in the 17th and repairs to properties and shops. intervals, so the number of people this new wave of energy and structure provides their lifeblood.This Street. By good fortune the majority century following the banning of Coupled with the conversion of the arriving and departing at the Central economic uplift so it can be used wonderful and exciting new project of the buildings to be demolished are market traders from within the City once roofless St Luke’s Old Street London stations will be considerable. creatively. Farringdon is a case in will enhance London and help to ungainly blocks like at Farringdon or walls, the market remained popular as the new home of the London But a station design is very complex point where both the upgraded sustain its success as a World City. Bond Street. until the mid 1970s, when recession Symphony Orchestra School, the both in the hard edged practical Thameslink line and the new  brought economic blight to the City area is fast becoming the focus of issues of handling many thousands of Crossrail station will dramatically The new stations provide an fringes. Using £100,000 from English one of London’s most successful people each day smoothly and safely, enhance the economics of an unparalleled opportunity for major www.crossrail.co.uk/ Heritage, Islington Council has put English Heritage/local authority as well as addressing the symbolic enjoyable area that has come to contributions to the civic quality of www.dft.gov.uk/pgr/rail/pi/crossrail/ together a scheme directing over area grant funding schemes. and intangible issues that stations life relatively recently, but which each of the places served.To achieve 09 Changing London 12 09 Changing London Changing London

AN HISTORIC CITY FOR A MODERN WORLD

NEXT ISSUE Continental Railways has delivered a world- EUSTON ARCH SET LONDON’S SUBURBS TRANSPORT class station of which all are justifiably proud, London is a patchwork of planned urban TO RETURN? quarters and historic villages, each with its own London’s complex transport networks are the whilst on the London Underground one of the sense of identity, but one which is increasingly product of many centuries of development and biggest conservation projects ever undertaken Built by Philip Hardwick in 1837, the either in replica, or reusing some of threatened. We take a look at some of the change, and further change is both necessary has seen many historic stations brought back to Euston Arch (seen here in 1934) the original material, could become issues they face. and desirable if London is to sustain its pre- their original splendour, but modernised so that was the first great monument of the a symbol of the regeneration of this eminence as a world city. However, some they are fit for purpose for the 21st century. Railway Age. Its demolition in 1962 entire quarter of London in the of London’s most important buildings have Similar challenges exist for our streets and amid bitter controversy was not just same way that the reconstruction a crucial operational transport function. a national scandal, but a landmark in of the Frauenkirche in Dresden has public spaces which we will need to adapt to Reconciling 21st century transport needs with the development of the post-war captured European imaginations. address changing needs and priorities, but the legacy of previous generations presents conservation movement. However, without losing the very qualities which make Reinstatement could provide the exciting challenges to those charged with the it is just possible that the Arch might them distinctive. same sort of ‘WOW’ factor for stewardship of London’s historic environment. return again as a part of the Euston that the refurbishment of the Conservation is about managing change so that redevelopment of Euston Station. Skill, expertise, design flair and understanding trainshed and hotel has generated are essential if the special qualities of these it reinforces rather than erodes local character next door at St Pancras. It could also buildings are to be maintained for future and distinctiveness. Always, the starting point become the focus of a fine cluster generations – all underscored by clear vision. is to understand the value of what exists of classical buildings around Euston and to ensure that this informs the whole Square and give the station a proper At St Pancras International an excellent process of change. presence in the townscape. working partnership over a 10 year period between English Heritage and London & It is a tall order for a redevelopment Philip Davies project which will have to generate sufficient funding to address a whole series of public demands – not least a new station, and a package of CONTACT DETAILS other public benefits. However, if it can be achieved, it would send To receive this publication regularly, please send in your address details to: out a powerful signal of national self-confidence in the future of Richard Dumville (Regional Policy Officer) London Region, English Heritage In response to public pressure led the railway network and the by Dan Cruickshank, the founder 1 Waterhouse Square, 138-142 Holborn regeneration of Britain’s cities. London, EC1N 2ST of the Euston Arch Trust (www.eustonarch.org), Network Rail EAST LONDON HERITAGE WEEK Alternatively you can e-mail us at [email protected] and British Land have adopted a AND TRAIL GUIDE thoroughly responsible approach The Heritage of London Trust and and are investigating both the cost Tower Hamlets are jointly hosting a heritage weekend on 13th/14th Additional copies can be obtained from English and feasibility of its resurrection. Heritage Customer Services – call 0870 333 1181 Much of the original stone was used September to reveal some of the Published by English Heritage to fill a hole in the Prescott Channel fascinating cultural treasures, looked after by local communities, but Managing Editor: Philip Davies of the River Lea, where it still Edited by Richard Dumville and Gordon Dulieu remains, whilst the ornamental not normally open to the public. Designed by Real 451 ironwork is in the National Railway Trail guides will be ready in the Printed by Colourhouse Museum,York. summer. If you would like to All images © Richard Dumville/English Heritage except receive one, please send a stamped St Pancras International © Union Railways/Spheroview Ltd Preliminary studies have shown that self addressed envelope to St Pancras Poster © NRM – Pictorial Collection/Science it would be feasible to reconstruct The Heritage of London Trust, 38 & Society it, and that it would fit comfortably Ebury Street, London, SW1W OLU Capital Canals © British Waterways Boone’s Chapel © Research Design Architecture Ltd between the two listed lodges in (Tel: 020 7730 9472) Euston Square Gardens.There is no Gloucester Gate © Paul Cleghorn Public Lighting Ltd www.heritageoflondon.com. Big Ben © Transport for London 2005 CONTENTS 6 10 doubt at all that its reinstatement 2/3 Planning London’s Spaces Crossrail St Pancras Cover image: St Pancras Chambers and train shed 7 11 Kerb Appeal London updates Product code: EH 50943 4 Capital Canals 8/9 12 5 Underground Heritage The Euston Arch London Trams