Types of Shops: Boulangerie - bakers, which also sell croissants, ‘brioches’ (a cross between bread and cake), ‘pains au chocolat’ and ‘pains au raisin’ Pâtisserie/Confiserie - cake/sweet shop, often combined with bakers. Epicerie - grocers, often with more ‘fancy’ goods. Boucherie - butchers. /Delicatessen - cooked , pâté, salami, prepared salads, etc. Often combined with butchers. Fruiterie - greengrocers. Poissonnerie - fish shop. Alimentation - general food store, sells all basic items, including fresh produce, bread, when the bakery is closed, and wine. Long opening hours but can be expensive. Maison de la Presse - news agents. English papers are usually readily obtainable in holiday areas usually the following day at about twice the price. Pharmacie - chemist, usually very helpful in cases of minor accidents/ailments. Tabac - tobacconist also sells stamps, postcards, phone cards, news- papers, confectionary, parking permits, fishing permits and lottery tickets. Look for the red oblong sign of the ‘tabac’. Supermarché/Hypermarché - supermarket/hypermarket (Rallye, Mammouth, Codec, Leclerc, Casino, Euromarché etc). Larger stores are open six or seven days a week and at lunch times, while smaller ones may close on Mondays and at midday. Hypermarkets are usu- ally situated outside of towns, in retail parks. Marché - market, often held two or three times a week in larger towns. They are, however, often open only in the mornings. Motoring Shopping Driving Age: the minimum driving age is 18 years. During the first two years after passing their driving test, drivers must not exceed One of the delights of a visit to France is sampling the delicious local 80km/h (49mph) on ordinary roads, 100kph on urban motorways and produce, cheese, seafood and fresh vegetables. Coffee and croissant 110 kph on motorways. breakfasts and French bread, local cheese and salad lunches are Speed Limits: 50 kph in built up areas ideal for summer holidays. 90 kph on main roads Shopping hours: generally shops open from 9am to 6.30pm with a break 110 kph on dual carriageways and motorways for lunch from noon to 2.30pm. Further south many shops close for a longer Vehicles towing a trailer (under 750kg) are restricted to 100 kph on ‘siesta’ period, often 1pm to 4pm. Food shops and supermarkets all roads, including motorways. can keep much longer hours, particularly during high season. Many There is also a minimum speed of 80kph on the outside lane on motorways shops, including large hypermarkets, are closed on a Monday, or during daylight, on level ground and with good visibility. When the at least in the morning. This includes just about everything at the road is wet, the speed limits are 80kph on ordinary roads (outside ferry ports and most supermarkets and hypermarkets are closed on built-up areas), 100kph on dual carriageways and 110kph on toll Sundays. motorways. In foggy conditions it is 50kph on motorways, when vis- ibility is less than 50m.

24 25 Be aware that French Police will stop drivers who may be exceed- Fuel: unleaded petrol and diesel are widely available. ‘Essence ing the speed limit in the area by 40 kph and drivers will lose their sans plomb’ unleaded petrol is 95/98 octane. LPG available. licences on the spot and therefore not be able to continue with their Credit cards are accepted at most filling stations and also there journey unless a substitute drive can take over. are now many automatic petrol pumps operated by credit/debit These regulations also apply to private cars tow- cards. Check first that these cards are acceptable. ing a trailer or caravan provided their total weight Accidents and breakdown: place the warning triangle, does not exceed 3.5 tonnes. If it is more than this, the speed which should be carried at all times, 30m behind limits are the same as those for goods vehicles. If the weight of the the vehicle (it must be visible from at least 100m.). trailer/caravan exceeds that of the kerbside weight of the car the speed If, in the case of an accident the police are going to be called, limits are as follows: and they must be in the event of bodily injury or substantial if the excess is less than 30% - 65kph damage, leave the vehicle in the place where it came to rest. If it if the excess is more than 30% - 45kph must be moved because of traffic obstruction, mark the position In these cases, a disc showing maximum speed must be displayed on on the road and get this confirmed by witnesses (‘témoins’). the rear of the caravan/trailer. They may not be driven in the fast lane A European Accident Declaration Form should be supplied with of a 3-lane motorway. the Green Card and the French driver should have a similar form Seat Belts: must be worn by the driver and all passengers. (‘Constat Amiable’). Complete the report section of either his or your Children under 10 years seated in the rear must be in the appro- carbonized form. Both drivers must sign the report - if you are in any priate fitted restraint system. Children under the age of 10 must way unhappy about the report write ‘sous réserve’ underneath your not travel in the front seat of a vehicle, unless they are in an signature. approved rear-facing fitted seat - but not if car is fitted with A detachable section of the Green Card should be attached to the passenger airbag. copy of the completed Declaration Form and sent to the address Headlights: must be adjusted for driving on the right. It is advisable given on the back of the Green Card. Finally, notify the Insurance to have a complete spare bulb kit as it is illegal to drive with faulty Company in writing, without delay. lights and you must be able to replace a bulb if requested to do so Fines: French police are empowered to levy ‘on-the-spot’ by a policeman. Dipped headlights should be used when driving fines for certain driving offences and must issue receipts. through tunnels and in poor visibility. Motorcycle headlights (dipped) Traffic lights: are often high above the road and very easily must be used during the day. missed. They go from red to green without passing through amber. Drinking and Driving: Police can carry out random breath tests Flashing yellow arrows mean proceed in the direction indicated but and severe ‘on the spot’ fines can be imposed. Saliva drug tests priority must given to pedestrians and the traffic flow being joined. are now used to detect drivers under the influence of drugs Parking: most towns have a ‘zone bleu’ within the limits of which a and again severe penalties are imposed. blue disc must be displayed (not required on Sundays and public Priority: is from the right (‘priorité à droite’). Unless it is stated holidays) obtainable from police stations, tourist offices and some specifically to the contrary, all traffic entering from the right has right shops. They permit parking for up to one and a half hours. Many of way. Outside built-up areas all main roads of any significance have towns also have parking meters and ‘pay-and-display’ car parks in right of way. the centre. On some streets parking is permitted only on a particular Road signs: tend to point at or across rather than down side or on certain dates. Do not park if the kerbs are marked with the roads they indicate and junctions are often signposted at the yellow paint. Outside towns pull off the road when parking. junction, rather than just before it, as in this country. Directions are It is an offence to park facing traffic, near pedestrian crossings, on normally indicated by the name of the next big town rather than bridges, on corners, private driveways, etc. the road number. When you pass through a town, follow the ‘toutes Strict regulations are in force in and the surrounding directions’ and ‘autres directions’ signs unless your destination is départements of Hauts-de-, Seine-St. Denis and Val de Marne signposted separately. ‘Centre ville’ signs lead to the town centre, and ‘poids and parking is forbidden in many streets in the centre. You are not lourds’ signs indicate ring roads for heavy vehicles, which may be a good idea allowed to leave a car parked in the same place for more than 24 when traffic is heavy. ‘Boulevard périphérique’ or ‘route périphérique’ is consecutive hours in Paris. sometimes used to indicate a ring road. Vehicles parked contrary to regulations may be towed away and impounded.

26 27 Motorways/Autoroutes: tolls have to be paid on most balance. A fixed daily hospital charge (‘forfait journalier’) must also stretches of motorway but rates per kilometre vary. Tolls be paid. The 25% balance and the forfait journalier are non-refundable. are also levied on some bridges and through the Mont Blanc Ambulances: usually privately run, often by taxi firms. Nevertheless and Fréjus tunnels depending on the size of vehicle. Most they are fast and reliable. They normally require payment on the credit cards are accepted as payment for tolls. spot or very soon afterwards. Ambulance charges are not Motor Boats/Jet skis: everyone using a motorboat or jet ski with an reclaimable but are covered under a Personal Holiday Insurance engine of 6hp or above in French inland waters must hold either a ‘carte policy. A receipt will be necessary to make a claim. mer’ (for craft up to 2 tonnes) or a ‘permis mer’ (for anything larger). Chemists: for minor ailments it is often simplest to go to a If the vessel is less than 15m in length and not capable of more chemist rather than a doctor and they are also equipped to provide than 11 knots the RYA certificate of competence is sufficient. For first aid. The chemist can often recommend an effective and coastal waters there is no requirement for any sort of licence inexpensive medicine, though without a doctor’s prescription it is for a British flagged boat, but for a French flagged boat (this not possible to reclaim the cost through an EHIC. There is a wide would include a jet ski hired in France) the ‘carte mer’ or network of pharmacies in most towns. Their hours of business are ‘permis mer’ will be required. As the British government does not usually the same as for stores (9am to 7pm or 8pm) and there is always a issue similar documents, if you want to use a French flagged motor- pharmacie open nights, Sundays and on public holidays. boat or jet ski you will have to apply for a certificate of competence from a French sailing school. Money Holiday Health Currency: the official currency is the Euro Medical and Dental Treatment: make sure the doctor or dentist Where to change money: currency can be exchanged at banks consulted is ‘conventionné’, which means they work within the and at bureaux de change. Many banks have cash points that take Sickness Insurance Scheme. After treatment make sure the doctor or Mastercard, Visa and International Debit cards. At the majority of cash dentist provides a signed statement of the treatment given (‘feuille de points you can select a button, which translates all the instructions into soins’). They will enter on the form the amount paid for treatment. If English. medicines are required, take the form together with the prescription Banks: usually open from 10am to 1pm, and 3pm to 5pm, Tuesday to to the chemist who will enter the amount paid. The chemist should also Saturday. Banks often close earlier the day before a public holiday. provide a copy of the prescription note. Medicine containers have Credit Cards: all major credit cards are widely accepted in detachable seals (‘vignettes’) showing the name and cost of the medicine. France. Stick these seals in the appropriate space on the certificate. Travellers’ cheques: can be used as cash or exchanged for local Reclaiming Medical Costs: Around 70% of standard doctors’ currency in shops, restaurants, banks, hotels and other establishments and dentists’ fees are refunded and between 35% and 65% of the but identification such as a passport or driving licence may be cost of most prescribed medicines. The cost of common remedies required and possibly the copy of the Purchase Agreement Form. and items such as bandages are refunded at the lower rate. The cost The commission charge will vary depending on where cheques are of medicines marked with a vignette or N.R. is not recoverable. Send exchanged. the application for a refund (the feuille de soins and any prescriptions) to the nearest Sickness Insurance Office (Caisse Primaire d’Assurance- Maladie or CPAM) whilst still in France. The refund will be sent to your home address later, but it may be subject to a bank charge. Before sending the money order, the French authorities will send an itemised statement of the amount to be refunded. This refund process normally takes around two months. Hospital treatment: out-patient treatment must be paid for and then a claim made for a partial refund from the local Sickness Insurance Office (Caisse Primaire d’Assurance-Maladie or CPAM). If treated as an in-patient in an approved hospital show a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) and the office will pay 75% or more of the cost direct to the hospital. The patient pays the

28 29 Communications Transport Post Offices: generally open 9am.to 7pm. Monday to Trains: the train service in France is efficient, punctual, and Friday, and 9am to noon on Saturday. Look for bright yellow comfortable. France’s extensive railway network connects large La Poste signs. At post offices it is possible to change money, cities and towns throughout the country. Smaller towns without train make photocopies, send faxes (télécopies), post letters, stations are generally linked by bus service to the nearest station. The buy stamps and make phone calls. Many post offices in larger towns French National Railroads’ (Société Nationale des Chemins de Fer have Internet terminals. or SNCF, www.sncf.fr) network of inter-city rail links also provides Internet: practically every reasonable-sized town has an Internet café or frequent express and high-speed train service known as the TGV or connection point of some sort and in less populated areas Train à Grande Vitesse. the need is being filled by post offices, many of which now have rather expensive public Internet terminals, which are operated with a prepaid card (€7.63 for the first hour). In addition, France Télécom has street-side Internet kiosks in major cities. Prices range from €2.29 to €9.15 per hour. Telephones: Phone cards (télécartes) can be purchased from post offices, tabacs and newsagents for use with public phones. It is often possible to phone from a café or bar. The call will be timed and charged afterwards. However, this can be expensive. Calls can be made from any post office, either by normal ‘payphone’ or making a call, which is charged for on completion.

Emergency Numbers: Fire 18 Police 17 Ambulance (SAMU) 15 Operator 13 Directory enquiries 12 European emergency line: 112 Buses: the most convenient bus services are those run as an extension of rail links by SNCF, which always run to and from the SNCF station Public Holidays and will access areas not accessible by rail. In addition to SNCF buses, private buses can be useful for local and some cross-country National holidays: Labour Day 1 May journeys. Larger towns usually have a gare routière (bus station), Victory Day 8 May often next to the gare SNCF. However, the private bus companies Bastille Day 14 July don’t always work together and frequently leave from an array of Day of Assumption 15 August different points (the local tourist office will usually help locate them).

Moveable public holidays: Easter Sunday Easter Monday Ascension Day Pentecost - Pentecost Monday

30 31 Wining and Dining Where to Eat: most cafés serve sandwiches, ‘croque-monsieurs’ (grilled ham and cheese sandwiches) and snacks but many cafés and restaurants also serve one-course meals such as steak and chips or cold meats. Look for the ‘snack’ sign or ‘plat du jour’. Roadside stalls are available during the summer months selling hamburgers, chips, sandwiches and pizzas, often heralded by signs advertising ‘frites/ sandwiches/boissons’. Fast food establishments such as ‘McDonalds’ and ‘Flunch’ are open late and there are many pizzerias, which are often good value. Crêperies are especially prevalent in , although they are found all over the country. They specialise in the preparation of ‘crêpes’ (wafer thin pancakes, sometimes known as ‘galettes’). ‘Les Routiers’ restaurants are usually good for an inexpensive meal of good quality. All restaurants are required to display their menu and prices outside. Most restaurants serve ‘à la carte’ meals but these tend to be The basic hallmark of quality is the wording ‘Appellation d’Origine rather expensive compared to 3 or 4 course set menus which are Contrôlée’ (A.O.C.) on the label. This may also appear with the name of usually much better value. Many establishments provide a ‘menu the region included, e.g. ‘appellation Bourgogne contrôlée’, ‘appellation touristique’, usually a reasonable meal at a reasonable price. Bread St. Emilion contrôlée’. It is normally an indication of a good, basic is free and provided in unlimited quantities, but butter usually has to standard. It does, however, cover a wide range of wines, from the be requested. humbly and locally produced, right up to ‘premier cru’. ‘Vin de pays’ is the next step down, and wider ranging than V.D.Q.S. (‘vin délimité de qualité supérieure’), which it has replaced. Like ‘Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée’ wines, these must come from a particular region but the standards they must reach are lower. Generally a ‘vin de pays’ is a reasonably good local wine and is often excellent value. Beer: brewed in , French beer is normally what we would call lager and is quite strong and always served cold. Sous pression - beer on tap. Une bière - normally a 1/4 litre (just under a half pint) bottle. Un demi or une pression - draught beer (usually cheaper). Un véritable - half litre. Un formidable - a litre. Pastis: this aniseed-based spirit is the most popular apéritif, usually 4-5 parts water to 1 part pastis with lots of ice. Cognac and Armagnac: undoubtedly the king and queen of brandies, ‘Cognac’, coming only from the Charente region, and its lesser Drinks: in cafés and bars it is usual to be served at by a waiter. It is normal known counterpart ‘Armagnac’, from the Pyrenean Basque country. practice not to pay for your drinks until you are ready to leave. Hot Drinks: coffee (‘café’) is normally served black in small cups. If Wine: if there is a local wine that is often a good choice, though not you like it white, ask for ‘un café crème’. ‘Café au lait’ (with milk) is necessarily the cheapest option. A restaurant will usually offer very usually served for breakfast. Chocolate drinks are widely available. reasonably priced wines under the following labels: ‘Vin de Table’- ‘Choky’ and ‘Cacolac’ (a milk shake served hot or cold) are the most inexpensive table wine; ‘Un Pichet’ - a jug of table wine, usually common brand names. Tea is usually weak and black and is often reasonable in quality and price; ‘Vin de Pays’ - the local brew, nice served with a slice of lemon. to try; ‘Réserve/Cuvée de la Maison’ - usually a good wine and often Water/Mineral Water: (‘eau minérale’) ‘Perrier’ and ‘Vittel’ are locally produced at a reasonable price. It is often selected by the fairly inexpensive. Restaurants will usually provide tap water (‘l’eau proprietor or chef for the restaurant’s patrons. fraîche’, ‘l’eau naturelle’, or ‘l’eau du robinet’).

32 33 Places to visit Relaxing Cafés: cafés are a Parisian institution and the obvious places for Paris and Northern France a break from sightseeing. Best known for pavement cafés are the Transport boulevards such as the Champs-Elysées, but more atmospheric cafés are to be found on the Left Bank. Métro: the underground (Métro) system is certainly the most convenient way to get around Paris as it is quick, Parks: most parks within the city are formal, and you cannot therefore efficient and relatively inexpensive. Tickets can be bought sit on the grass. There are plenty of seats though and many parks in books (‘carnets’) of 10, and there is a standard price for all (such as the and the Jardin de Luxembourg) provide journeys, but check your ticket applies to all zones that you wish to children’s entertainments such as puppet shows. travel to. Boat Trips: a good way of seeing the sights, many of which stand on or near the banks of the Seine. ‘Bâteaux-Mouches’ (open or glass top boats) run regularly from near the Pont de l’Alma (right bank). Tours: there are countless guided tours available around Paris.

Evening Entertainment Restaurants: these need not be expensive and every ‘quarter’ has its reasonably priced bistros. Many restaurants in Paris are closed on Sundays and during August. Concerts: there are many classical concerts, often in the better known churches, including Notre-Dame on Sunday evenings. There are concerts every day at the ‘Auditorium des Halles’, and experimental modern music can be heard at the Pompidou Centre. Opera: there are two Opera Houses - the ‘Opéra de La Bastille’ (Métro Bastille), built in 1989 to commemorate the Bicentenary of the and the ‘Opéra Garnier’ (Métro Opéra), a tradi- tional building with magnificent decoration, particularly in the great staircase and foyer. Theatre: see the press for details of performances. ‘Cafés-théâtres’ RER: an express suburban métro. Métro tickets are valid on these and informal club-type theatres can be very enjoyable if you understand trains within Paris. any French. Theatres tend to close for the month of August. Buses: the same tickets are used on the buses and the métro. Within Cabaret: most, including ‘Folies Bergères’ and ‘’, tend Paris, one ticket is now sufficient to cover any journey. In the outskirts, to be risqué and expensive. Pigalle generally is rather seedy, an two tickets may be required for longer journeys. equivalent of Soho, though there are some good clubs. Taxis: all taxis have a display panel on the roof and are only allowed to pick up from ranks (‘stations de taxi’). Rates are shown in each cab.

Shopping Food Shopping: Parisian food shops and markets can be interesting even if you do not wish to buy. Markets: Flea markets (‘Marchés aux Puces’) are very much a feature of Paris at weekends. The most famous (and therefore quite expensive) is at the Porte de Clignancourt on Saturdays, Sundays and Jazz Clubs: another typically Parisian institution. Good ones in the Mondays. Others are at the Porte de Montreuil, the Place d’Aligre Latin Quarter, including ‘Caveau de la Huchette’ (Métro St. Michel), (Métro Ledru Rollin) and the Porte de Vanves. also ‘La Paillote’ (Métro Odéon). 34 35 Museums and Galleries Ile de France The following is a brief list of the more important museums. Entrance to several is cheaper on Sundays. Chantilly is famous for its lace and whipped cream, and well (Métro Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre), Musée d’Orsay (Métro worth visiting for its elegant château. Solférino, RER Quai d’Orsay), Pompidou Centre (Métro Rambuteau/ Hôtel de Ville), Palais d’Art Moderne (Métro Iéna), Père Lachaise (Métro Père-Lachaise), Musée de l’Orangerie (Métro Concorde). The should definitely be on everybody’s sightseeing list. It is a masterpiece of the Classical Baroque style, with the palace complemented by the vast formal gardens.

The Sights For the purpose of sightseeing, we have divided Paris into areas which each has their own distinctive character. The Palace of houses elegantly beautiful The , Ecole Militaire, UNESCO Building, Palais de Chaillot stairways and apartments. The surrounding forests and their (Métro/RER Champ de Mars, Métro Trocadero, Bir Hakeim, La Motte rocky out-crops have long been popular with walkers, climbers, riders Picquet). and artists. , Rodin Museum (Métro/RER Invalides, Métro Varenne, Latour-Maubourg). The Champs-Elysées, Tuileries Gardens, , (Métro Concorde, Roosevelt, /Etoile). Opéra, Madeleine, Place Vendôme (Métro Opéra Madeleine, Métro/RER Havre-Caumartin). Châtelet-Les-Halles, Louvre, Palais Royal, Pompidou Centre, Les Halles (Métro Palais Royal, Châtelet-Les-Halles, Hôtel de Ville). , (Métro Hôtel-de-Ville, St. Paul Bastille). Notre-Dame, Ile de la Cité, Palais de Justice (Métro Cité, Châtelet, Métro/RER Saint-Michel). Saint Germain, , Luxembourg Gardens (Métro St. Germain-des-Prés, Montparnasse, Métro/ RER Luxembourg). The Latin Quarter, Boulevard St. Michel, , Panthéon (Métro Monge Métro/RER St. Michel, Luxembourg). , Moulin-Rouge, Sacré-Coeur (Métro Anvers, Pigalle, Abbesses). (Métro Porte Maillot, Porte d’Auteuil).

36 37 Champagne The impressive memorial at Vimy is a moving tribute to the 17,000 Canadians who died here in 1917. Nearby, the old trenches provide a In Reims there are actually 250 kms of wine cellars and most of the chilling reminder of the front lines. well known Champagne houses offer tours. Notre-Dame de Lorette is the main French cemetery with more Epernay is famous for the high quality champagne produced in than 20,000 graves from the First World War. the region. Guided tours and tastings are organised in all the large champagne houses. Bellicourt, situated just north of St. Quentin, is an American memorial with a cemetery in the nearby village of Bony. Troyes is a ‘City of Arts’, with many restored half-timbered houses in narrow picturesque streets. The best area to explore the old Regional specialities: Beer features very strongly in dishes such as ‘Boeuf Carbonade’. To round off the meal, try ‘Maroilles’, the king alleyways and streets is around the rue Champeaux. of local cheeses. Joinville typifies a Champagne village, with a 16th century castle, the ‘Château du Grand Jardin’. Normandy The old town of Langres has a 12th century cathedral, which has Honfleur is an ancient port with a most picturesque harbour. Now been rebuilt and renovated many times. It is pleasant to take a walk much used by yachts, which provide the artists who paint on the along the town walls, where it is possible to visit two of the towers. quayside with plenty of subject matter. Regional specialities: Many of the region’s popular dishes feature Deauville has become the greatest and most fashionable resort of the Champagne in their ingredients. Its famous cheese is ‘Chaource’ Normandy coast. Its wooden promenade, the ‘Promenade des Planches’, which is creamy. Mild Macaroon type biscuits are traditionally eaten harbour, grand hotels and casinos make it a fascinating place to visit. with sweet champagnes. Trouville, whilst rather more down-to-earth than Deauville, has perhaps a bit more atmosphere and bustle in its narrow winding Picardy streets and around the mouth-watering fish stalls along the riverside. Dunkerque (Dunkirk) was almost completely destroyed Many of its old houses in Pont l’Evêque were lost during the last war but it during the war and only the beautiful church of St. Eloi remains of still has some points of interest. In particular, the main street is an excellent the old town. Close by is the picturesque old town of Bergues example of medieval France. The town’s greatest claim to fame is its with its intriguing star-shaped fortress. distinctive cheese and the Calvados distillery, which is worth a visit. Boulogne is the largest fishing port in France and also a From Ouistreham westwards towards Barfleur are the famous moderately attractive seaside resort with some good beaches. beaches where the Allied landings took place in June 1944 - Utah, Also worth visiting ‘Nausicaa’ undersea centre which is a Omaha, Gold, Juno and Sword beaches. Just south of Ouistreham is walk through aquarium. ‘Pegasus Bridge’ at Benouville, the permanent site of the airborne The lively holiday resort of Le Touquet enjoys an elegance perhaps not troops’ museum. expected of the north of France. There are numerous exclusive hotels, Arromanches is situated on the coast, near Bayeux and is the home of villas, a couple of casinos and a famous racecourse. Le Touquet also the D-day museum. The remains of ‘Mulberry B’, one of the artificial offers some very fine beaches and a promenade along its sea front. harbours so essential to the success of the landings Compiègne is undoubtedly one of the most interesting towns in can be clearly seen in the bay. There is a 360 degree cinema, where Picardy. While the town and nearby forest are best known for the the intensity of the Normandy Landings can be experienced. signing of the Armistice in 1918, the château and vintage car museum Bayeux, in addition to being home of the famous Bayeux tapestry, also are also worth visiting. boasts one of Normandy’s finest Gothic cathedrals, an interesting War Memorials and Cemeteries museum and several other old buildings. There are countless British and Allied memorials and cemeteries The magnificent Benedictine abbey built on the rock, which is Mont- throughout the area, together with some French ones. The many St-Michel, has been called ‘the wonder of the western world’. Explore graves provide an emotional testimony to those who died during the narrow streets of the village, which clings, to the sides of the rock the horrors of the two World Wars. Some of the most important are and visit the abbey itself, with its spectacular night performance. listed below. Regional specialities: Normandy is particularly well known for its Albert provides the starting point for an interesting tour of the Somme cheeses, cider, seafood and calvados. Thick cream and fresh butter battlefields, which includes the British memorial at Thiepval and the from local farms are widely used as the base for many sauces, which Canadian one at Beaumont-Hamel. accompany regional , poultry and fish. 38 39 Brittany The regional capital is Quimper and very much the county town, built on the banks of the River Odet. Pride of place must go to the Combourg is a small, old town dominated by an imposing beautiful Gothic cathedral with its floral decoration, and the streets feudal castle. and alleyways of the old town. The Breton port of St. Malo has a medieval walled city with Lac de Guerlédan is considered one of Brittany’s finest sights and restaurant-lined squares and narrow, cobbled streets as well as a also a good spot for walking and watersports. large fishing port. Although the town looks convincingly old it was heavily bombarded during the Second World War and has been Auray has one of France’s largest oyster beds as well as a picturesque old lovingly restored it the original style. Dinan, which is down river quarter and an interesting market. from St. Malo, is another ancient walled town, dominated by a castle Carnac is a bustling, medium-sized resort town with several south facing overlooking the Rance. Wander through the animated old cobbled large, safe, sandy beaches. The ‘alignements’ (lines of standing streets, along the ramparts and in the fine gardens. North-east at stones) date back several thousand years. Another historic walled Pleudihen the apple and cider museum gives visitors the chance to Breton city is Vannes, which in medieval times was the capital watch traditional cider-making methods and sample the results! of Brittany. The Côte d’Emeraude lies west of Dinard and is a beautiful stretch of jagged coastline, with spectacular pink and grey cliffs. The popular resort of St. Cast has one of the largest sandy beaches in Brittany and from the northern tip of Pointe de St. Cast there are splendid views in both directions. The major resort of the region is Perros-Guirec there is a pleasant coastal footpath to the neighbouring resort of Ploumanach, a little fishing port that is famous for its piles of pink and grey rocks. The small resort of Trégastel boasts a fine beach and an interesting aquarium whilst Brest is both a great naval port and one of Brittany’s most important towns. Sights include the castle, the naval museum, and ‘Océanopolis’, a sea centre and an ideal place for the whole family. One of Brittany’s major tourist attractions, Locronan has a Presqu’Ile de Rhuys, lying south of Vannes, is a peninsula with many medieval church with fine wood carvings, a perfectly small fishing towns and resorts. The ‘Tumulus of Thumiac’, at the tip of the preserved Renaissance square and a wide variety of peninsula commands a superb view of the coast to the south and the local crafts. Gulf of Morbihan to the right. There are superb views from this dramatic rocky outcrop of Pointe du One of the most attractive inland Breton towns is Rochefort-en- Raz, which juts defiantly into the Atlantic swell. Look out for dolphins, Terre, quite unspoilt with many old houses. The ruined castle has which swim off the point. been partly restored and incorporated into a newer château. Famous for its immense sweeping seafront and magnificent beach, La Baule is one of France’s largest and most impressive resorts. Regional specialities: Brittany has a wide variety of regional dishes, in particular pancakes or crépes. Local delicacies include Breton leg of mutton with white beans, ‘pâté de campagne’ (a rough pâté, usually made from , possibly with ), ‘boudin blanc et noir’ (black and white puddings) and ‘andouille’ (chitterling ). Lobster, oysters and mussels are excellent, with the local Muscadet white wine ideal as an accompaniment. Cheeses of the area are mild in flavour, the most famous being Port-Salut and Saint-Paulin.

40 41 The Vendée and Atlantic Islands Gironde Pornic is a very attractive fishing town with many old streets and a busy To visit places of interest along the coast to the south of the Gironde harbour front. The 13th-century château dominates the town. Pornic estuary from Royan, it is best to take the car ferry service between is now also a holiday resort with a yachting marina. Royan and the Pointe de Grave. St. Jean-de-Monts has developed into the second largest resort on La Rochelle is well worth visiting with lively, old streets and a the Vendéen coast. In high season St. Jean-de-Monts ‘Plage’ has lively harbour, guarded by ramparts and three ancient towers. Rochefort bars, nightclubs and cinemas for evening entertainment. The beach was once a great naval base and recommended are the naval museum is excellent for relaxing during the day. In St. Jean-de-Monts ‘Ville’, and the luxurious and exotic ‘Maison Loti’. the open market square and charming church, give the town a very Royan is now a busy holiday centre and thriving town with all the pleasant feel. trappings of a major resort. It has a startlingly modern church of St. Gilles-Croix-de-Vie is another busy fishing port which has Notre-Dame, with a rather futuristic exterior. The interior, however, fairly recently developed into a holiday town with a large is both original and appealing. The most attractive part of the town is yachting marina. This little island of Ile d’Yeu has a very probably the ‘Corniche de Pontaillac’, where the grand old hotels and impressive coastline, picturesque little villages and an imposing villas, which escaped the wartime destruction, are situated. castle. A small holiday town, with the remains of an old abbey, ‘Notre The central town of the vineyards of the area is Cognac. Some of the Dame de Lieu-Dieu’, Jard-sur-Mer is typical of the Vendéen coast. great and famous ‘maisons’ can be visited here. The old quarter is The lively town of La Tranche-sur-Mer is notable for its fine pleasant to wander around, while the museum contains a section on the displays of flowers and spacious beach. 342423. history of cognac production. The island of Ile de Ré is steeped in tradition, with its picturesque villages of whitewashed stone. There is a toll-bridge joining the island to the mainland. Known mainly for its oyster beds Rivedoux-Plage is thriving little fishing port with two very large beaches whilst La Flotte is one of the few places on the island, which could be called a town. It has a picturesque little harbour with cafés and bars and a labyrinth of little streets and alleys around the port. There is also a small, shaded beach, which offers safe bathing for children. St. Martin-de-Ré is set on a little island within the walls of the fort it once was. Two of the gateways to the town still retain their is a bustling port with extensive shopping centres portcullises. There are ample architectural memorials to various ages of Ile d’Oléron is a very popular holiday spot, accessible Bordeaux’s power - a Roman amphitheatre, the vast Gothic cathedral via a bridge. France’s second largest island (after ), of St. André, and the old quarter of St. Pierre. The ‘Place de la the main industry is oyster farming, with many oyster beds on the east Comédie’ is one of the most elegant squares in Europe. Next door coast. The western sandy coast has a wealth of superb beaches. is the celebrated ‘Vinothèque’, which sells an enormous range of Bordeaux wines. Château d’Oléron, now the island’s chief port, has remains of its 17th century citadel and ramparts. Set in a beautiful pinewood, St.-Trojan The holiday town of Cap Ferret is situated on a headland affording has the attraction of a small train running through the coastal woods. fine views, particularly from the lighthouse, out to sea and across the Bassin d’Arcachon. Regional specialities: Frogs’ legs, that famous French delicacy, are still available on the menu, although today the vast majority are imported. Arcachon itself was once a famous oyster town but now the busy The most unusual regional speciality is the ‘tourteau fromager’, a round seafront with its cafés, restaurants and large yachting marina makes savoury cake made with goat’s cheese. Baked in a very hot oven, it this a most attractive and fashionable resort. has a black crust and a deliciously light, creamy texture. Thick slices Regional specialities: Gironde Regional specialities include of ‘Jambon de Vendée’ make a good alternative to bacon for breakfast. oysters, Charentes butter, which has a distinctive, nutty flavour, and The Vendée’s own wine, ‘Brem’, is little known, but is a very pleasant dry ‘Chabichou’, a small, firm goat cheese. Wine is used extensively in white wine and the ‘Mareuil’ is also worth tasting. the preparation of the local dishes.

42 43 Gascony notable liqueur from this area is Izarra made with a blend of moun- tain herbs, which produce a deceptively strong, uniquely flavoured Biarritz with elegant old hotels and houses, rather special but never over drink. It comes in green and yellow varieties, of which the green is sophisticated atmosphere and superb setting, is undoubtedly one the stronger. of France’s most endearing large resorts. The lively, atmospheric resort and fishing port of St. Jean-de-Luz is always popular with Languedoc Roussillon summer visitors. The beach is one of the safest in the area and boat The busy little town of Collioure is full of life and colourful street enter- trips can be taken around the bay. A shopping haven for wines, spirits tainment in the evening. It has an interesting fortified church so near and cigarettes the prices in Col d’Ibardin although not duty-free are to the sea that it appears to be almost floating! very competitive. Argelès-Ville is a pleasant market town, typical of the Roussillon St Jean Pied de Port is an ancient town with many 16th century buildings area, whilst Argelès-Plage is a substantial resort with lively bars and and is used as a stopping place for pilgrims on their way to Spain. During the restaurants set back from the seafront and an excellent stretch of summer months there are numerous festivals and markets all along the sandy beach. Basque coast. Dating from medieval times Carcassonne is the largest fortified Regional specialities: Gascony delights to be sampled include city in Europe. By night, when it is spectacularly illuminated, ‘Jambon de Bayonne’ (cured uncooked ham) and ‘foie gras Landais’ it totally dominates the surrounding countryside. Around Carcassonne (duck or goose-liver pâté). If you have a sweet tooth try the famous spread the vineyards of Corbières. Nearby are the caves of macaroons from St. Jean-de-Luz, chocolates from Bayonne and the Cabrespine. mouth watering ‘gâteau Basque’. Agde has retained its importance in the fish, wine and agricultural Pyrénées trades. Nearby is Cap d’Agde, a colourful holiday resort. The central, old quarter of Toulouse, which lies on the bank of the The Camargue is most famous for its marshy wilderness and its river Garonne, is not to be missed. The impressive town hall can be beautiful white horses. A tour of the area should certainly found on the place du Capitol and there are numerous museums. There include the walled town of Aigues-Mortes. To the south is are many châteaux producing Armagnac in the area and Château de Le Grau-du-Roi, a lively fishing port and the striking, purpose-built Assaigne offers a free guided tour and degustation. marina village of Port-Camargue. Further east is Les Stes. Maries-de- la-Mer, with its fortified church. The Carmargue museum is also an A unique centre of Roman Catholic pilgrimage and scene of some interesting stopping place. apparently miraculous cures, Lourdes provides a most moving spectacle. English-speaking guides are available and masses Regional specialities: Typical dishes include ‘cassoulet’ and are also held in English. mussels baked in garlic butter, or stuffed. Famous wines include Fitou, Côtes-du-Roussillon, Minervois and Corbières. Listel is a Luz-Saint-Sauveur is a well kept mountain village and spa resort light, fruity and fresh ‘Vin de Table’. ‘Blanquette de Limoux’, the surrounded by towering mountain peaks. The attractive streets house oldest sparkling wine in the world, has a delicate fruity flavour numerous shops, cafés and restaurants and the scenery is superb. and is ideal as a dessert wine or when mixed with ‘Crème de There is a particularly interesting Templar church in the village. cassis’ (blackcurrant liqueur) to make ‘Kir’. The area boasts Regional specialities: Pyrénées dishes include ‘daube de porc’, some very fine fortified sweet wines, which are ideal, pork, carrots and herbs braised slowly in red wine, ‘poule au pot’, a ice cold as aperitifs or dessert wines. casseroled chicken dish and ‘magret’ of duck, slices of duck breast which is generally pink in colour and very rare. The Pyrénées boast Riviera some distinctive cheeses including ‘fromage de brebis’ (made St. Tropez is now one of the best known resorts in Europe, from ewes’ milk). Desserts include ‘croustade’, a tart of apple and very fashionable and very expensive. The harbour teems Armagnac, or ‘pruneaux à l’Armagnac’, prunes in Armagnac. with life. Older buildings worth visiting include the 19th- The Bordeaux region produces perhaps the world’s most famous century church, built in Italian baroque style, and the wines. Cognac, the most famous of all French brandies, is produced 16th-century citadel, from which there are fine views over the town in and around the town from which it takes its name, directly inland and the bay. from Royan. Armagnac is distilled from full-flavoured white wines This modern resort of Port-Grimaud has been built in the style of a and is regarded as the very best of the French brandies. The only typical Provençal village and is unusual in that no cars are allowed in

44 45 the village. There is an elegant collection of colourful houses and a Corsica well-equipped marina. Near the harbour in Calvi is the 17th century church of Santa Maria In Fréjus of particular interest are the aqueduct, two and in the upper town is the Cathedral of St Jean-Baptiste. The gateways, the amphitheatre and, above all, the arena, which modern part of the resort stretches along the palm lined harbour lends a marvellously dramatic setting to the concerts, which road. The long sandy beach is ideal for children and there are many are occasionally staged there. To the north lies the large, waterspouts on offer. beautifully situated Lac de St Cassien. Porto Vecchio a small town with a pleasant holiday atmosphere is St. Raphaël is a fashionable resort with a large marina situated amongst fine sandy beaches and peaceful lagoons. and sheltered beach. There is always a lot going on by the old harbour where cafés and shops line the broad pavements and street artists and buskers entertain the crowds. The museum of underwater archaeology contains an interesting collection of artefacts from sunken ships. One of the Riviera’s great showpieces, Cannes remains an elegant and expensive resort. One of the main sights is the celebrated ‘Boulevard de la Croisette’ with its flower borders, palm trees, smart shops and expensive hotels. The Film Festival takes place in May. Le Suquet is the old town, dominated by the 16th century church. The square is still lined by the old town wall and a shady terrace affords excellent views of the harbour area. Also just outside the town is Le Cannet, a small resort retaining much of its traditional charm amid a semi-circle of wooded hills. Nice is the undisputed ‘Queen of the Riviera’ with its world famous sea front. The old town is a maze of alleys, interspersed with little squares and markets, in particular, the flower market. The town is rich in museums, art galleries and majestic buildings. Ajaccio, Corsica’s capital city and major resort, is ’s Monaco consists primarily of the old, picturesque town of Monaco birthplace. His childhood home is now a museum of personal and the great, legendary gambling centre of Monte-Carlo, itself a relics. The ‘Hôtel-de-Ville’ is a Napoleon Museum with displays most attractive town. During July and August there are magnificent of family portraits and other heirlooms. Also worth visiting is firework displays most Friday evenings and the famous Grand Prix the ancient citadel guarding the town and the daily quayside is in May. fish market. Regional specialities: The best-known dishes include ‘ratatouille’, Regional specialities: Worth trying are the ‘charcuterie’ which ‘socca’ (a pancake made from chickpea flour), and ‘pissaladière’ (an includes ‘figatelle’ (grilled liver sausage), ‘coppa’ and ‘lonzo’ onion flan garnished with anchovies and black olives). Garlic is a very (sausage and ham smoked over a chestnut-wood fire), wild boar important part of Provençal cooking. For dessert, savour the delights either roasted or stewed in red wine, and black pudding and of ‘gâteau tropézien’ a rich cake filled with custard and topped with blackbird terrine, a real delicacy. Traditional ‘Fritelli’ pastries and coarse sugar. The Riviera is surrounded by some of the best wine cheeses such as ‘Broccia’, a fresh creamy cheese eaten with chestnut growing areas in Europe, such as the Rhone Valley, which includes fritters and ‘Niolo’ round off the meal perfectly. the world famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Famous wines include Cap Corse and Muscats. Corsica is also famed for its ‘marc’ or ‘eau-de- vie’, strong spirits distilled from fruit. Arbutus berry and myrtle berry spirit are among the local products worth a try.

46 47 Loire The fairy-tale white turrets of Ussé are supposed to have inspired the story of the Sleeping Beauty. The Châteaux are the major attraction of the . At Amboise only a proportion of what was once an immense edifice Valençay is an enormous construction, reminiscent of Chambord. survives. Villandry, a 16th century building, is on a medieval fortress site. Angers is a large, medieval ‘château fort’ One of the oldest towns of the Loire Valley is Saumur and its château one of the best known. The old quarter is grouped round the riverbank The 15th century Dunois château of Beaugency has an 11th century keep. beneath the château. The magnificent external staircase Blois is one of the symbols of Doué-la-Fontaine, a pleasant small town is famous for its roses and art. troglodyte dwellings, particularly those at Rochemenier. There is also The largest and one of the most important of the Loire châteaux is at a good zoo. Chambord with massive park surroundings. Fontevraud was once one of the wealthiest abbeys in France and is where Henry II. Eleanor of Aquitane and Richard the Lionheart are buried. Tours is one of the oldest cities in France and capital of the central Loire and is now a busy modern city. The old medieval town with its narrow streets, half-timbered houses and 18th century ‘hôtels’, surrounds the cathedral. The ‘Tour de Guise’ is all that remains of the 12th century fortress. The ‘Pavillon de Mars’ houses a fascinating waxworks museum, which traces the highlights of Touraine’s history.

Chaumont overlooks the Loire and is surrounded by a beautiful English-style park designed in the 19th century. Chenonceau has five elegant arches, which span the river in a sumptuous setting. Regional specialities: Mushrooms and asparagus are grown Built in the classical style of the 17th century and set in a large park, locally. The local meat specialities are ‘rillettes’ (a minced meat, Cheverny could be described as an elegant country mansion usually pork, cooked in its own fat very slowly and served chilled in earthenware pots) and ‘andouillettes’ (tripe ). The speciality Chinon is an impressive ruin and powerful medieval stronghold at riverside restaurants is pike served with ‘beurre blanc’. The towering over the old town and river Vienne. Loire Valley produces some of the best known French wines Langeais has a forbidding exterior but elegant, beautifully furnished including the ‘rosés d’Anjou’. It is possible to taste the wines both at the apartments. houses of the ‘vignerons’ (the small local producers) and at the Loches is one of the most celebrated of the Loire châteaux, with ‘caves’, the wine cellars run by growers’ co-operatives or the larger impressive dungeons and extensive ramparts. commercial firms. The sparkling wines from Saumur are a highly The attractive little château of Montreuil-Bellay stands surrounded respected alternative to champagne. by ramparts, towers and moats.

48 49 Dordogne Burgundy The regional capital Sarlat has a wealth of tradition and history. A Auxerre, the capital of Lower Burgundy, is built on charming terraces very popular market is held on Saturdays. overlooking the River Yonne. The Gothic cathedral of St. Etienne The main point of interest at Souillac is the Byzantine style former dates from the 13th Century. abbey church. Market day here is Friday. Nevers has been famous for pottery since the 16th century and has many Rocamadour, whilst rather touristy, is regarded as the jewel of interesting buildings - the Cathedral, the Ducal Palace, ‘Porte du the Dordogne, clinging dramatically to an almost vertical 150 metre Croux’ gateway and the St. Etienne church. cliff. The fascinating ecclesiastical city, dominated by the castle, Although Meursault is only a small village, it is famous gives those who climb up its steps (more than 140!!) an unforgettable as a producer of one of the world’s finest white wines. panorama. However lifts are also available. Things to see include the medieval church of St. Nicholas La Roque-Gageac is certainly one of the most beautiful villages and the ‘Hôtel de Ville’, originally a fortified country château. The in France with picturesque houses and alleys on the cliffs of the architecture and multi-coloured, tiled roofs are typical of buildings Dordogne. in Burgundy. Along the Dordogne there are also many beautiful châteaux When in Beaune it is essential to visit the ‘Musée du Vin’ and the former hôtel of the Dukes of Burgundy to see the history and work Les Milandes is a beautiful white Renaissance dwelling with terraces of the vineyards and wine. There are many fine buildings in this and gardens looking down towards the Dordogne. bustling, elegant old town, notably the ‘Hôtel Dieu’ which is still in use Beynac towers over the attractive riverside village, offering as a hospital and the church of Notre Dame which houses a beautiful magnificent views of the Dordogne valley. collection of tapestries. South of Beaune is the ‘Archéodrome’, a Castelnaud was once a ruin, but is now largely restored and is home museum devoted to the early history of Burgundy with life-size to an excellent Museum of Medieval Warfare. models of Neolithic dwellings. The 17th-century château of Veyrignac has been carefully restored Regional specialities: Snails, cooked with parsley and since it’s burning during the Second World War. garlic butter, are a favourite first course. An alternative is Castelnau-Bretenoux is undoubtedly one of the region’s great ‘jambon persillé’, ham with parsley, served up with the castles and a fine example of medieval military architecture. famous Dijon mustard and a selection of gherkins and mixed pickles. Many dishes are, naturally, cooked in the local wine, Montal on the other hand is very much a country house château, among notably ‘boeuf bourguignon’. the finest of its type whilst Biron is another of the great ‘châteaux forts’ of the region. The vineyards of Burgundy stretching from Dijon south to Santenay are amongst the world’s finest wine producing Regional specialities: The best-known specialities are ‘foie gras’, regions. Meursault, in the heart of the vineyards, provides truffles and preserved meat (‘confit’). Potted meats are very much an ideal starting point for touring the region. part of traditional Périgord cookery. For dessert you may wish to try ‘clafoutis’, a local flan decorated with plump black cherries or ‘Gâteau Massif Central aux Noix’, a delicious walnut cake. The environs of the Ardèche river are increasingly popular as a holiday Whether you are a connoisseur or not, the full-bodied red wines destination and the river itself is a magnet for canoeists. of Cahors and Bergerac, the famous sweet white Monbazillac The old village of Labeaume is very picturesque with houses merg- and the fine white Bergeracs are bound to find their way onto ing almost totally into the rock face. your table, and at very reasonable prices! To round off any Boasting an impressive Palais de Justice, Largentière has an inter- meal, the region offers a large range of fruit liqueurs. The most esting old quarter and is overlooked by a château. interesting of these are ‘Crème de Noix’, ‘Eau de Noix’ or ‘Brou de Noix’, a Vogüé is dominated by a château, which is open for visits in the delicious walnut liqueur. afternoon. There are medieval streets to explore and a number of river beaches. The landscape of the Cevennes is wild and the villages seem untouched by the 20th century. One of the major attractions is the caves.

50 51 Villefort is a small village but set amid picturesque scenery. French Alps Gorges du Tarn extend for more than 50kms and are the largest Lac d’Annecy is reputedly France’s most beautiful lake and gorges in the area with impressive rock formations. Europe’s purest. The town of Annecy at the north end of the Grotte de Trabuc is probably the largest of all the Cévennes caves, lake, is full of narrow streets and has many canals lined which has been inhabited on several occasions since prehistoric with flower bedecked balconies, making it extremely times. The ‘cent mille soldats’ is one of the most unusual picturesque and overlooked by an 11th century château. On the formations in the Cévennes. lake, there is a steamer, which calls at many lakeside villages Nant, an ancient, walled town is situated on the river Dourbie whilst such as Talloires, one of the most expensive resorts on the lake La Couvertoirade is a small, unusual and beautiful fortified town. and its reputation as the gastronomic centre of the region is reinforced by the number of hotels and restaurants along the waterfront. It is separated from its neighbour, Menthon, also overlooked Jura and Vosges by a château, by the ‘Roc de Chère’, a wooded rocky promontory. Chamonix-Mont-Blanc is busy all year round, with skiers Belfort is situated on the border between the Jura and Vosges and during the winter and walkers and climbers in the summer. is built on both banks of the river Savoureuse. It is renowned for its This is largely a Victorian town, bearing witness to the early, military history. pioneering days of mountaineering. Climbers are now Set in a loop of the river Doubs, (pronounced ‘Doo’) Besançon, the mainly drawn by the technical difficulty of the ‘Aiguilles’, jagged capital of Franche-Comtéand has much to see of interest. rock needles, rather more comfortably viewed by cable- In Dole there are many interesting old houses dating from the 15th, car, for example to the Aiguille du Midi or the ‘téléphérique du 16th and 17th and lovely views of the old town. Brevent’. There is also a rack railway up to ‘La Mer de Glace’. Clairvaux-les-Lacs is a lovely little country town surrounded by Any ascent of Mont Blanc will be amply rewarded by the truly pine forests and two lakes whilst Dijon, the former capital of the Dukes breathtaking views. of Burgundy, is a city with an interesting history. Courchevel is a modern, purpose built ski resort, which is the is one of the largest and most attractive cities in France base for several good cable-car excursions in the summer. and is a lively place dominated by a red sandstone cathedral with The one to La Saulire gives excellent views. beautiful stained glass windows, tapestries and carvings. The old Aix-les-Bains is quite a busy resort and features the first ever casino. quarter, the best preserved part of Strasbourg, seems untouched by The town hall is in a 16th century château. A visit to the lakeside the 20th century. promenade, and the town’s old quarter are recommended. Colmar with pretty carved wooden houses in its old quarter is a The pretty lake of Lac d’Aiguebelette, with its clean waters, is popular typically Alsatian town. with water sports enthusiasts. The western and southern shores are Regional specialities: Local specialities are ‘la Fondue Comtoise’, the most accessible and visitors will find a number of pleasant, sandy (‘Comté’ cheese, dry Jura wine and a dash of Kirsch), ‘Meurette’, a beaches along the lakeside. fish casserole with red wine and ‘Pauchouse’ (with white wine). The Le Bourg-d’Oisans, a small, lively town, is the scene of German influence is strong with ‘Quiche Lorraine’, ‘Tarte à l’Oignon’ frequent fairs and markets and centre of some of the most (savoury onion tart) and ‘Choucroute Garnie’, pickled cabbage attractive scenery in the area. Above Le Bourg d’Oisans cooked and garnished with various meats and sausages. Strongly is the ski resort of Alpe d’Huez, which is reached by a flavoured cheese from Munster is ranked as one of France’s great- spectacular road of twenty one hairpin bends. From the resort there est. Cakes to sample are ‘Madeleines’ and ‘Kougelhof’ (sponge, with is a cable car up to the Pic du Lac Blanc with superb views as far as raisins and almonds). Mont Blanc and the Massif Central. Summer skiing is possible in the The Jura produces lovely rosé wines. ‘Fondue Comtoise’, a deep area, if there are suitable weather conditions. golden colour, is normally drunk as an aperitif. Wines from Alsace Valence is well worth a visit, not only for the range of shops, excellent include ‘Riesling’, ‘Sylvaner’, ‘Pinot Blanc’, ‘Muscat d’Alsace’ and ‘Tokay restaurants and market, but also for its stunning position and cathedral. d’Alsace’. Perhaps the best known in this country is ‘Gewürztraminer’ Dominated by the St. Apollinaire cathedral, rebuilt in the 17th century, which has a full-bodied, fruity bouquet. the town is built on terraces, which run down to the Rhône at the base of the valley. The old town, surrounded by ramparts, has a maze of alleys and winding streets where you will find some interesting shops.

52 53 Provence old market town favoured by artists. Henri Matisse designed and decorated a chapel here between 1947 and 1951. The Gorge du Verdon, known as the ‘Grand Canyon of Europe’, although not of quite the same proportions, are nevertheless most St. Paul-en Aix-en-Provence, the historic and beautiful university impressive. It is possible to do a round trip of the gorges, one way spa town and ancient capital of Provence, is a fascinating town of on the ‘Corniche Sublime’ (D71) and the other on the slightly less 17th-18th century houses, quiet squares and with several spectacular northern side (D952). Driving around the gorge you notable buildings, art galleries and museums. Cézanne’s studio is will see tremendous panoramas and breathtaking views. You may open to visitors, who can see where the master created some of his also explore the bed of the gorge. For this, you will need walking famous paintings. is, of course, the site of the Pont d’Avignon in the song known by every school child. The bridge in fact stops in the middle of the river. More interesting is the great medieval palace, ‘’. Between Avignon and Orange are the vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Tavel, the latter producing what is reputedly the finest rosé wine in France. The cellars in Châteauneuf are interesting and the wine can be tasted. is one of the great feats of and described by the Michelin Green Guide as ‘one of the wonders of the world’. You can walk across the lower level of the immense aqueduct straddling the river Gard. The city of Nîmes has some of the best preserved antiquities outside Italy. The amphitheatre has been restored to something experience, the correct equipment, a detailed map and something to very near its original state whilst the ornamental French garden, drink. There is a distinct path, which should be adhered to. dating from the 18th century contains the remains of a Roman The small town of Castellane has become an important tourist centre bathhouse and the ruined Temple of . In the rue de because of its position on the ‘Route Napoléon’ and at the head of the la Lampèze there is a Roman collecting basin for water brought in from the eastern end of the Gorges du Verdon. The main square is pleasant Pont du Gard. There are several good museums and the ‘Maison and there are several interesting old buildings in the town. Pride Carrée’ is a perfect example of a Graeco-Roman temple. of place must go to the chapel of Notre-Dame-du-Roc, built on a Regional specialities: Salted meats are a speciality. The olives narrow, rocky needle, which towers over the town and neighbouring and olive oil from Nyons, a staple in southern cooking, are said to valley. The chapel is reached on foot. The key should be requested be the best in France. Poultry with cream, mushroom or crayfish from the parish church at the foot of the path. Leaving Castellane on the sauces, fish cooked ‘au gratin’ with butter and pâtés from the Drôme. D955, you gain fine views of the Castellane basin and soon reach the ‘Ravioles’, herb stuffed ravioli from the Dauphiné, are well worth Lac de Castillon. The road runs along the dam, giving interesting end-on a try. The nougat of Montélimar is legendary while Valence has its views of the long, narrow reservoir. The lake is a super spot to spend an ‘suisses’ pastries. afternoon sunbathing or swimming. The cookery of Haute-Provence reflects the strong influence of olive Grasse is the world-famous centre of perfume production and oil, garlic and tomatoes. ‘Brandade de Morue’, salt cod, creamed surrounded by immense fields of flowers. A visit to the Molinard with olive oil, milk and flavoured with garlic is a speciality of Nîmes. or Fragonard perfume factories is recommended. Other points of ‘Pissaladière’ is a delicious onion tart with olives and anchovies. interest include a cathedral dating from the 12th century (which was restored in the 17th century), and a museum devoted to The vineyards of the Savoie region produce mainly white Provençal art and history. The mountain scenery beyond Grasse is wines, which are extremely pleasant, fresh and fruity. very attractive, as you pass through the Loup valley and the Alpine ‘Chartreuse’, whose natural recipe dates from 1605, is a foothills. Tournette-sur-Loup, situated between Grasse and Vence liqueur, still made today by the Carthusian monks in their is an unusual fortified village standing on a rocky plateau above a modernised distilleries of Voiron. Other locally produced beverages sheer drop. The weavers, potters, painters and sculptors who live include ‘Crème de Myrtilles (blueberries)’ in Die, ‘Eau-de-Vie de here have made it an arts and crafts centre. Vence is a picturesque Poires’ (pear brandy) in Upie and Anneyron, and ‘Liqueurs et Sirops’ in Aiguebelle.

54 55