Farallon National Wildlife Refuge California

92d Congress, 1st Session ------House Document No. 92-102

FARALLON NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE CALIFORNIA

COMMUNICATION FROM THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES TRANSMITTING FOURTEEN PROPOSALS TO ADD TO THE NATIONAL WILDERNESS SYSTEM

PART 10

APRIL 29, 1971. —Referred to the Committee on Interior and Insular Affairs and ordered to be printed with illustrations

U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE WASHINGTON : 1971 LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL1

THE WHITE HOUSE

WAS H I NGTON

April 28; 1971

Dear Mr. Speaker: The Wilderness Act of September 3, 1964, declared it to be the policy of the Congress to secure for the American people of present and future generations the benefits of an enduring resource of wilderness, and for that purpose the act established a National Wilderness Preservation System. In my special message on the environment of February 8, 1971, I stressed the importance of wilderness areas as part of a comprehensive open space system. In these un- spoiled lands, contemporary man can encounter the character and beauty of primitive America -- and learn, through the encounter, the vital lesson of human interdependence with the natural environment.

Today, I am pleased to transmit fourteen proposals which would add to the National Wilderness System vast areas where nature still predominates. These areas are briefly described below. (1) Simeonof National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska -- 25,140 acres of a unique wildlife environment: the bio- logically productive lands and waters of Simeonof Island off the coast of Alaska.

(2) North Cascades National Park, Washington — 515,880 acres in two areas in North Cascades Park and Ross Lake and Lake Chelan National Recreation Areas. This nearly impenetrable wilderness includes rugged alpine mountains whose glaciers feed lakes and streams in the virgin forests below. (3) Isle Royale National Park, Michigan — 120,588 acres of island wilderness in Lake Superior. Isle Royale is one of the few remaining areas where the North American timberwolf can be found along with other relatively rare species including the moose, beaver, mink and lynx. (4) Sequoia^Rid Kings Canyon National California — 721,970 acres. With its abundant wildlife and groves of giant sequoia trees this area of the Sierra Nevada Mountains is an important site for scientific research concerning natural areas.

(5) Shenandoah National Park, Virginia — 73,280 acres. The scenic grandeur of the Shenandoah's Blue Ridge is well known. This area is one of the few remaining examples of the vast mountain wildernesses that long ago stood as an obstacle before pioneers pushing westward. (6) Breton National Wildlife Refuge, Louisiana — 4,420 acres. The Chandeleur and Breton Islands of the northern Gulf of Mexico, which comprise this wilderness, are an important habitat for nesting shore birds, sea turtles and wintering waterfowl. (7) Florida Keys National Wildlife Refuge — 4,740 acres. Tropical vegetation, rare bird species, and Key deer native to this area are unique within the United States. (8) West Sister National Wildlife Refuge, Ohio — 85 acres. Located just nine miles east of Toledo, this island refuge serves as an important nesting area for egrets, herons, swallows, warblers and a host of other birds. The refuge is an exceptionally primitive landscape compared to the intensive land uses found along most of the Lake Erie shore. (9) Chamisso National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska — 455 acres. Located in Kotzebue Sound, this island group contains the largest marine bird nesting colony in northwestern Alaska. During annual migrations, the birds raised in this refuge contribute significantly to the abundance and variety of bird life along the coasts of Alaska, Washington, Oregon and California. (10) Farallon National Wildlife Refuge, California — 141 acres. These islands comprise an important sea bird rookery, hosting some 150,000 to 200,000 birds each summer — including the largest colony complex of cormorants in California. Sea lions also inhabit the area. (11) Izembek National Wildlife Range and Aleutian Islands National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska — 301,451 acres. The tremendous natural biological productivity of this area supports a diverse array of wildlife; it is best known for its use by millions of waterbirds, its unique mammalian fauna and its outstanding salmon spawning waters. iii (12) Cedar "Breaks National Monument, *^tah — 4,370 acres. Situated on the high Markagunt Plateau of southern Utah, this monument includes a gigantic eroded natural amphitheater whose steep walls time has carved into fan- tastic shapes of many colors. Subalpine meadows and forests also add to the beauty of the area. (13) Capitol Reef National Monument, Utah — 23,054 acres. This monument provides a striking example of the Waterspocket Fold, a great doubling up of the earth's crust. Its spectacular features include a great cliff of brilliantly colored rock layers and dome-like peaks of gray and white sandstone. (14) Arches National Monument, Utah — 15,703 acres. Carved from the Jurassic sandstones of the Colorado Plateau, the monument exhibits many notable examples of towers, fins, and deep canyons, and 89 natural rock arches. In addition to these new proposals, I will also recommend an expansion of the still unenacted Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge wilderness proposal from 319,000 acres to approximately 347,000 acres. This vast swampland, located in Georgia, was originally proposed to the 90th Congress. Its designation as a wilderness area would augur well for the continued existence of the nearly 400 species of birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians, and fish that frequent this valuable ecosystem. In reviewing roadless areas of 5,000 acres or more, the Secretary of the Interior has concluded that two areas which he reviewed are not suitable for preservation as part of the National Wilderness Preservation System. These are Chaco Canyon National Monument, New Mexico and Laguna Atascosa, Texas. Enclosed are a letter and a report from the Secretary in support of these two negative recommendations as well as of the fourteen new wilderness proposals. I concur with the recommendation of the Secretary of the Interior on these sixteen areas. I urge the Congress to give early and favorable consideration to this package of significant conservation proposals. Honorable Carl Albert Sincerely, Speaker of the House of Representatives Washington, D.C. 20515 Enclosures t/ '~7 ^ -*— s

iv United States Department of the Interior OFFICE OF THE SECRETARY WASHINGTON, D.C. 20240

March 25, 1971 Dear Mr. President:

It is with a great deal of pleasure that I recarnniend the esteblishnent... of the Farallon Wilderness within the Farallon National Wildlife He fuse. cs a tin.it of the national Wilderness Preservation System.

The Farallon llc.tioncl Wildlife Refuse consists of a group of ru~/ ;ed- r.ri'J picturesque islands extending over about 7 niles of the Paci:-ic. Ocean off San Francisco, California. It was established by Executive order of President Theodore Roosevelt in 1909, an^ subsequently enlarged by Public Land Order in 1969 to include all of the Farallon Jslords. The islands comprise an iraportant sea bird rookery, hosting vpwrrds of 150, CCC to 200,000 birds each sumer. Hie islands are al^c i'requentod by Calif ornia sea lions, Steller sea lions, and northern elephant seals. The biological value of the Fsrallon Islejids foi- narine birds is tied directly to the interrrelated plant and rmrie.l life occvirrin^ in surrounding waters and it would be most desirable if additions! protection could be afforded to the sur- roteidino submerged larxds vhich are under State control. It is ray belief that the State of California can further strengthen the preservation of this valuable ecosysten by including o.djacent submerged Isjids within a State- designated wilderness orea.

In accordance with the requirements of the Wilderness Act of Septfisber 3, 19bU (73 Stat. 890), a public notice was issued on Jul;- 2U, 19<--9j of the proposed Fsrallon Wilderness, and a i-/ublic hearing v,-?.s held in San Francisco, California, on October 30, 19o9. Die hearing record was held open to provide the opportunity for written expression by interested citizens until Dacenber lU, 19^9 • ivelve statenents were presented at the public hearing and 221 letters were received. These views are summarized in the enclosed synopsis oi the proposal. ALL interested elected officioJLs, as well as Federel and State agencies, were notified of the proposal, and thoir views are included in the synopsis. A complete record h?s b«en compiled, incluOin^ written statements and oral testimony received in response to our announcement of the public hc.-.rin£. Tiiis record is, of course, available for inspection. All of the Faction Islands, except Southeast^Rrallon Island, ere qualified for designation as wilderness, and I recoramend submission to the Congress of the enclosed draft legislation to incorporate about lUl acres into the ITationnl Wilderness Preservation System. Respectfully yours,

ROGERS C. B. MORTON Secretary of the Interior

Hie President The White House Washington, D.C. 20500

Enclosure

VI A BILL

TO designate certain lands in the Farallon National Wildlife Refuge, San Francisco County, California, as wilderness. Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America in Congress assembled. That, in accordance with section 3(c) of the Wilderness Act of September 3, 19& (?8 Stat. 890, 892; 16 U.S.C. 1132(c)), certain lands in the Farallon Rational Wildlife Refuge, California, which comprise about 1M acres and which are depicted on a map entitled "Farallon Wilderness - Broposed" and dated October 1969 and revised March 1970, are hereby designated as wilderness. The map shall be on file and available for public inspection in the offices of the Bureau of Sport Fisheries and Wildlife, Department of the Interior. SBC. 2. The area designated by this Act as wilderness shall be known as the "Farallon Wilderness" and shall be administered by the Secretary of the Interior in accordance with the applicable provisions of the Wilderness Act. SBC. 3. Except as necessary to meet »•!•»•< pm« requirements in connection with the purposes for which the area was established and for the purposes of this Act (including measures required in emergencies involving the health and safety of persons within the area), there shall be no commercial enterprise, no temporary or permanent roads, no use of Motorized vehicles or equipment, no landing of aircraft, no other font of •echaaical transportation, and no structure or installation within the area designated as wilderness by this Act.

VIII SHDPSIS OP WILDERKESS RECORD FARALLOH WILDERNESS HtOPOSAL FARALLOH HATIOBAL WILDLIFE REFUSE, CAL1FORHIA

A. The Farallon Wilderness proposal encompasses l4l acres within the Farallon national Wildlife Refuge. The refuge consists of four rugged and picturesque island groups extending over about 7 miles of the Pacific Ocean, 28 miles off shore from the City of San Francisco in San Francisco County, California. Since the islands are roadless, they qualify for mandatory review as wilderness under the provisions of section 3(c) of the Wilderness Act (P.L. 88-577)• The wilderness proposal includes all islands except the 70-acre Southeast Farallon Island, which is occupied by a lighthouse installation manned by Coast Guard personnel. The Farallon Rational Wildlife Refuge was established by Executive order of President Theodore Roosevelt in 1909, principally as a nesting area for marine birds. The Southeast Farallon Islands were subsequently added by secondary withdrawal through Public Land Order in 1969. Refuge acreage totals about 2.11 acres. The U.S. Coast Guard has primary jurisdiction of the Southeast Farallons and has concurred in the wilderness proposal. Refuge objectives provide for the preservation of physical and biological qualities of the islands in a natural condition for optimum wildlife use and productivity. The islands host upwards of 150,000 to 200,000 nesting birds each summer. Eleven species of sea birds are known to nest on the islands. Included are the Cassin's auklet, western gull, ashy petrel, Brandt's cormorant, common murre, tufted puffin, and black oystercatcher. The three species of cormorants which occur on the islands constitute the largest colony of cormorants in California and possibly on the entire Pacific coast, outside Alaska. The California sea lion is the most common mammal, and Staller sea lions and northern elephant seals utilize the rocks nt**»aa i rang ^ Refuge Management consists principally of periodic inventories of wildlife resources of the islands and the accumulation of information on factors having an influence on those resources. Wilderness designation would require no alteration in management practices. Isolation and inaccessibility have limited public use of the northern three island groups. These same factors, plus Coast Guard restrictions, have limited visitation to Southeast Farallon. San Francisco Bay Area chapters of the national Audubon Society sponsor annual birdvatching charter boat tours around the islands, and similar excursions are likely to remain the principle public use. The Farallons are important as an outdoor laboratory for research in the ecology of a natural marine environment and have been used for this purpose for many years by the Point Reyes Bird Observatory and other San Francisco Bay Area scientific and educational institutions. Research, regulated and monitored by the Bureau of Sport Fisheries and Wildlife in cooperation with the U.S. Coast Guard, will continue. B. DESCRIPTION A description of the Farallon Wilderness proposal is as follows: The Farallon Islands Wilderness consists of all islands within the Farallon Islands, except Southeast Farallon Island, which extend over 7 miles of the Bacific Ocean about 28 miles off San Francisco, California, between Latitude 37° to* and 37° 50' North, and Longitude 123° 00' and 123° 10' West. It includes about HU acres within the approximately 211- acre Farallon National Wildlife Refuge.

The Southeast Farallons are the southernmost island group. The main island, Southeast Farallon, reaches a height of 3^0 feet above sea level. Two Biles northweft is Middle Farallon, a single rock 5O yards in diameter, 20 feet high. It is frequently awash during the early suoner months and serves primarily as a resting place for cormorants and sea lions in calmer weather. The Borth Farallons are k miles north and consist of two clusters of bare, precipitous islets and rocks extending over about 1 mile of ocean. They reach a height of 155 feet above sea level. Hoonday Rock is the westernmost island, located about 3 miles northwest of the Korth Farallons. It is aljnost submerged and is awash most of the time. Its principal value, along with the surrounding Fanny Shoal, is a feeding ground for diving ducks. Geologically, the Farallon Islands are a granitic formation of a decomposing crystalline type. There are some pockets of shallow soil, particularly on the less vertical portions of Southeast Farallon. The climate is characterized by frequent strong winds and dense fog. Rainfall occurs mainly during winter, with summer moisture usually limited to damp fogs. Anneal precipitation Is approximately 10 inches. Vegetation is sparse. Farallon weed, a plant indigenous to the islands, predominates. Fourteen other native plants, 68 marine algae, and six lichens have been identified on Southeast Farallon, and most of these occur on certain of the other islands as well. Ho commercially valuable mineral deposits are known to occur on any of the islands. C. Refuge management involves (1) protection of island habitat and the wildlife that use it; (2) periodic inventories of wildlife and related resources; and (3) the accumulation of information on factors having an Influence on those resources. Wilderness designation would be compatible with these management requirements. D. THE 1ilIJgni»B« pmynss RECORD A public hearing announcement was published in the Federal Register on July 2^, 1969. Written notification of the hearing and information about the proposal vere sent to the Governor of California and six members of the California State Legislature; ko members of California's congressional delegation; Chairmen of the Senate and House Conmittees on Interior and Insular Affairs; 17 California State officials and agencies; 20O public organizations, and 1,OUO individuals. Bach was furnished a "package" consisting of the public hearing announcement and a brochure simsMrl j.1 ng the field wilderness study report* 1. The Public Hearing •^^MMMMMI^^B^MV^^M^VB^^MBB^St f In. accordance with section 3(d)(l) of the Wilderness Act, a public hearing was held in San Francisco, California, on October 3O, 1969. Mr. William J. Costello, Field Solicitor, Departaent of the Interior, San Francisco, California, was Hearing Officer. The Bureau of Sport Fisheries and Wildlife was represented by Me. John D. Findlay, Regional Director, £brtland, Oregon. There were 5O people in attendance including five representatives of the news Media. The hearing record was held open until fe, 1969, and P?1 letters were received. Twelve statements were presented at the hearing, »n in support of the wilderness proposal. Ho statements were introduced at the public hearing in opposition to the proposal. The following individuals spoke for the public hearing record: Mr. Thomas Malloy spoke on behalf of Mayor Joseph Alloto of San Francisco in support of the proposal. Mr. Edwin S. Sarsfield presented a statement on behalf of Congressman Ibilip Burton in support of the proposal. Congressman Burton stated that he felt that Southeast Farallon Island should be included because: Coast Guard • facilities exnRlng on the island were scheduled to be automated and resident personnel removed; and that the lighthouse Installation has considerable historical significance and wilderness designation of the island would be compatible with the Wilderness Act. Mr. John Mahoney presented a statement for Congressman George Miller. Congressman Miller voiced support of the proposal. However, he felt that Southeast Farallon Island should be included because: the lighthouse installation has historical significance and is, therefore, compatible with wilderness designation; the Coast Guard, by letter to him, had indicated their intent to. automate the navigational aids and ultimately vacate the island, thus no longer re- quiring resident personnel; and temporary use of the island by the Coast Guard for maintenance and similar purposes, and by research personnel from the Paint Reyes Bird Observatory and similar institutions, were "... clearly within the concept and purpose of wilderness areas within the intent of the Wilderness Act." He therefore recommended that all of the Farallon Islands be included in the proposal. Mrs. Marian Otsea appeared ottbehalf of Congressman William S. MaiULiard, and spoke in favor of the proposal. All other citizens in attendance and representatives of Trustees for Conservation, Sierra Club, Wilderness Society, Golden Gate Audubon Society, R>int Reyes Bird Observatory, and Western Interpretive Association spoke in favor of the proposal. 2i Communications from Public Officials Justice Douglas of the Supreme Court of the United States wrote favoring the proposal. Mr. Norman B. Liver-more, Jr., Secretary for the Resources Agency of California, wrote on behalf of Governor Ronald Reagan endorsing the proposal. He also stated that legislation to establish the proposed Farallon Islands Wilderness should clearly recognize California's claim to a 3-mile periphery .around the Farallon Islands; and, further, that *^The California State Lands Commission has jurisdiction over the submerged lands within the 3-mile periphery.'*

60-049 O-71-pt. 10- Representative Glenn M. Anderson stated thavhe had no specific recommendations but favored the proposal. Representative Lionel Van Deerlin wrote of his support of the Wilderness Act but did not state a position on the proposal. California State Assemblyman Willie L. Brown, Jr., voiced his support of the proposal. Be also expressed an Interest in providing for a 3-mile protective zone around the islands proposed for wilderness designation. 3. Ciimmnnlcations from State and Local Officials and State Departments and Agencies f Four letters were received from agencies of the State of California, Letters of acknowledgement were received from the Director, California Department of Agriculture, and the State Highway Engineer, California Division of Highways. William Bran Itott, Jr., Director, California Department of Barks and Recreation, wrote in favor of the wilderness proposal and expressed the hope that the Bureau of Sport Fisheries and Wildlife would work cooperatively with the State Lands Commission to provide for a protective zone around the islands. Jerome B. Gilbert, Executive Officer, Water Resources Control Board, State of California, expressed support of the Bureau's proposal and further stated'that "... in harmony with the Bureau's goals, this Board will continue to so regulate water quality that the significant environmental values in the Farallon area will be preserved." k. Communications from Federal Officials, Departments and Agencies Letters were received from eight Federal agencies. The Commander, wR. Coast Guard, Chief, Aids to Irrigation Branch, Tuelfth Coast Guard District, San Francisco, California, advised of their concurrence with the wilderness proposal. A letter of acknowledgment was received from the Director, Office of Business Programs, Business and Defense Services Administration, U.S. Department of Commerce, Washington, B.C. The State Director of California, Bureau of Land Management, USDI, Sacramento, California, advised that the proposal has "no impact or conflict on BLM programs ... The FaraUons have no significant mineral values." The Director, Bureau of Mines, USDI, Washington, D.C., advised that "since this refuge contains no mineral resources of commercial value, the Bureau of Mines has no objection to its inclusion in the Rational Wilderness Preservation System." Regional Director, Pacific Southwest Region, Bureau of ( iitdoor Recreation, UBDI, San Francisco, California, wrote in support of the proposal. The Regional Director, Western Region, National Park Service, USDI, San Francisco, California, stated that his agency agreed that "this designation would, be proper according to Public Law 88-^77, and that it would ensure preservation of the wilderness qualities which the Islands possess." Assistant Regional Director, Region 2, Bureau of Reclamation, U.S. Department of the Interior, Sacramento, California, advised that his Bureau had no objection to the proposed classification. The State Conservationist, Soil Conservation Service, USDA, Berkeley, California, acknowledged the hearing announcement. 5. Communications from Organigations A total of 31 letters was received from citizen organizations. All favored the proposal as presented at the public hearing. Three leWers urged designation of SouthMft Farallxm Island as wilderness at a later time when facilities are automated and the physical evidence of nan's presence eliminated* One letter recommended inclusion of a protective buffer zone encompassing submerged lands around the ini«ndq proposed as wilderness. 6. Communications from Citizens A total of 1?U letters was received from individual citizens. All favored the proposal, except one, which stated no position. The principal reasons for favoring the wilderness proposal were: a. To preserve the Farallon Islands b. To preserve research opportunities c. To help protect water quality and ocean resources in the area surrounding the islands In addition, ten letters contained specific recommendations for addition of Southeast Farallon Island at a later time when the physical evidence of man's presence may be removed. One letter of support was signed by 15 members of the Department of Biology, Sonoma State College, California, and another by 8U pupils of the Adeline E. Kent Junior High School, Kentfield, California. 7. Summary and Analysis Public and official response to the Farallon Wilderness proposal was unanimously favorable. Two major changes commonly suggested were (l) inclusion of Southeast Farallon Island in the proposed Farallon Islands Wilderness now, and (2) provision for a protective buffer zone of submerged lands around the islands as part of the wilderness proposal. The first suggestion was made on the basis that the Coast Guard would automate navigational aids and possibly remove resident personnel by the time the proposal could be made a unit of the HataWLl Wilderness Preservation System, and that the lighthouse installation was of such historical significance that it could be considered compatible with criteria enumerated in the Wilderness Act. The lighthouse installation could be considered compatible with wilderness designation on the basis of its historical value. However, plans to automate the facility will not remove the element of human occupancy since the Coast Guard is negotiating with the Bureau of Sport Fisheries and Wildlife and the Point Reyes Bird Observatory for a cooperative arrangement that would provide at least one person on the island year- round. This involves provision of housing and related service for research personnel from the Point Reyes Bird Observatory by the Coast Guard, in exchange for "caretaker" service. Thus, Southeast Farallon could regain unsuitable for consideration as wilderness within the foreseeable future. In the event that all human habitation should cease, the island may be added to the wilderness area through the procedures of section 3(e) of the Wilderness Act. The second suggestion would be highly desirable, as the biological value of the Farallons for marine birds Is tied directly to the interrelated plant and animal life occurring in surrounding waters. However, the lands and waters below the line of mean high tide are not eligible for designation as wilderness within the National Wilderness Preservation System, because they are under the jurisdiction of the State of California and, thus, are not federally owned. However, concurrent action by the State of California to ensure the preservation of the natural values of the adjacent and surrounding submerged lands would be an effective alternative. The boundaries and acreage of the Farallon Islands Wilderness proposal have not been adjusted or modified from those presented at the public hearing on October 30, Above: The North Farallon Islands march silently across a misty sea.

10 PREFACE

The Wilderness Act of September 3, 1964 Sections 4(a) and (b) of the Wilderness (Public Law 88-577) requires that the Sec- Act provide that: (1) The Act is to be with- retary of the Interior review every roadless in and supplemental to the purposes for area of 5,000 contiguous acres or more and which National Wildlife Refuges are estab- every roadless island, regardless of size, lished; and (2 Wilderness areas shall be within the National Wildlife Refuge System administered so as to preserve their wilder- within ten years after the effective date of ness character and shall be devoted to the the Act, and report to the President of the public purposes of recreational, scenic, sci- United States his recommendations as to the entific, educational, conservation and his- suitability or nonsuitability of each such torical use insofar as primary refuge objec- area or island for preservation as wilder- tives permit. Wilderness designation does ness. A recommendation of the President not remove or alter an area's status as a for designation as wilderness does not be- National Wildlife Refuge. come effective unless provided by an Act of This brochure describes a national wildlife Congress. refuge that has been studied by the Bureau In denning wilderness, the Act also included of Sport Fisheries and Wildlife at the direc- areas of less than 5,000 acres that are of tion of the Secretary of the Interior to deter- sufficient size to make preservation and use mine its potential for inclusion in the Na- in an unimpaired condition practicable. tional Wilderness Preservation System.

THE NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE SYSTEM The Refuge System is a National network of lands and wafers managed and safeguarded for preservation and enhancement of the human benefits associated with wildlife and their environ- ments. It presently consists of over 320 units, embracing nearly 30 mi/lion acres in 46 States. About 90 refuges containing 25 million acres in over 30 States qualify for study under the Wilderness Act.

11 INTRODUCTION

About 28 miles west of San Francisco, California, the vastness of the Pacific Ocean is interrupted by several small islands. These are the Farallons, "lit- tle pointed islets in the sea." They extend for about seven miles in a northwesterly direction, and are roadless, essentially inaccessible, and, with one exception, undeveloped. A Coast Guard lighthouse installation exists on Southeast Farallon. The islands comprise an important sea bird rookery, hosting upwards of 150,000 to 200,000 birds each summer. Their value as sea bird production areas led to the establishment of a Federal wildlife sanctuary embracing the northern three island groups in 1909. The Southeast Farallons were added in 1969, and the refuge now totals 211 acres.

ABOVE Female elephant seal

Common murre colony

12 ^^^^

H/STORY

The first known visitor to the Farallon Islands was incidents. Egg collecting continued at a high level Juan Rodriquez Cabrillo, who sailed along the until 1890, when restrictions by the Secretary of California coast in 1539. Later, Sir Francis Drake the Interior and a declining market for murre eggs anchored off the islands to replenish his ship's food brought the Farallon "Egg Wars" to an end. supply with seals and birds. In the late 18th and In 1909, President Theodore Roosevelt signed 19th centuries, Americans and Russians exploited the sea lions, fur seals and sea otters then found in Executive Order 1043 creating the Farallon Reser- abundance around the islands. vation, "... a preserve and breeding ground for native birds." Included were Middle Farallon, the The Farallons experienced their heaviest human North Farallons and Noonday Rock. Southeast pressure as a result of the phenomenal population Farallon and adjacent rocks were added by sec- growth that accompanied California's Gold Rush. ondary withdrawal in 1969. Demand for food far exceeded normal supplies, and San Francisco markets were soon provided All of the major islands were probably visited dur- with millions of sea bird eggs taken from the islands. ing the "Egg War" days. However, landing on all One of the "egg companies" formed during this but Southeast Farallon is extremely difficult and period reputedly gathered and sold close to four hazardous. There have been no recorded visits to million murre eggs between 1 850 and 1856. the three northern island groups since establish- Competition between organized collectors and "in- ment of the refuge, although Bureau of Sport Fish- dependents" was strong, and the bird colonies were eries and Wildlife personnel do make occasional the scene of many a brawl and even a few shooting aerial inspections.

13 PHYSICAL DESCR/PT70AI

The Southeast Farallons are 18 miles from Point Reyes, and 23 miles from Point Bonita at the entrance of San Francisco Bay. Several rocks are included in this group, the total area being about 120 acres. The main island reaches a height of 340 feet above sea level, and is approximately 70 acres in size. It has the only major horizontal area on any of the islands in the Farallons. Two miles northwest is Middle Farallon, a single rock 50 yards in diameter, 20 feet high. It is frequently awash during the early summer months, and serves primarily as a resting place for cormorants and sea lions in calmer weather. The North Farallons are four miles north, and consist of two clusters of bare, precipitous islets and rocks, extending over about one mile of ocean. They reach a height of 155 feet above sea level.

Noonday Rock is the westernmost rock, located about three miles northwest of the North Farallons. It is almost completely submerged and is awash most of the time. It's principal value, along with the surrounding Fanny Shoal, appears to be as a feeding grounds for diving birds. Geologically, the Farallon Islands are a granitic formation of a decomposing type. There are some pockets of shallow soil, particularly on the less vertical portions of Southeast Farallon. The climate is characterized by frequent strong winds and dense fog. Rainfall occurs mainly during winter, with summer moisture usually limited to damp fogs. Annual precipitation is approximately 10 inches. Temperatures are almost con- stant year round, seldom falling below 40°F. or rising above 60° F.

14 RESOURCES

Eleven species of sea birds are known to nest on the Farallons. Included are the Cassin's auklet, western gull, ashy petrel, Brandt's pelagic and double-crested cormorants, common murre, pig- eon guillemot, Leach's petrel, tufted puffin and black oystercatcher. The three species of cormorants which occur on the islands constitute the largest colony complex of cormorants in California, and possibly on the entire Pacific Coast, outside Alaska. The islands are also home to a small nesting popu- Cassin's anklet nest holes in one of the shallow pockets of soil. Farallon weed in foreground. lation of rock wrens and house sparrows. Numer- ous transient songbirds have been observed on Southeast Farallon and probably stop on the other islands as well. California sea lions are the most common mammalian inhabitant of the refuge, and reportedly breed there. Steller sea lions and northern elephant seals also haul out on the rocks occasionally. Euro- pean rabbits were introduced to Southeast Farallon, and a few have survived in spite of meager food supplies and periodic control. Vegetation is sparse. Farallon weed predominates. Fourteen other native plants, 68 marine algae, and 6 lichens have been identified on Southeast Faral- lon, and some of these no doubt occur on certain of the other islands as well. No important mineral resources are known to occur sift' on any of the islands.

15 PUBLIC USE

Isolation and inaccessibility have kept people off the northern three island groups. These same factors, plus Coast Guard restrictions, have limited visitation to Southeast Farallon. Bay Area chapters of the National Audubon So- ciety sponsor annual bird-watching charter boat tour trips around the islands, and similar excursions are likely to remain the only possible type of public use. Even if safety and distance factors were ruled out, disturbance from visits to the islands would be highly detrimental to colonial nesting seabirds.

A portion o( the North Farallons

Tour boat dwarted by Sugarloaf Islet, in MANAGEMENT AND Southeast Farallons DEVELOPMENT

Wildlife management is confined to periodic inventories of wildlife resources of the islands and the accumulation of information having an influence on those resources. No development is possible or necessary on the three northern island groups. Developments on Southeast Farallon include a lighthouse, a short trail system, several buildings and related facilities. The Coast Guard currently has personnel on the island year round. They have plans to automate the light, and, eventually, remove all resident personnel. At least some of the existing physical facilities and structures will be permanently retained. "Noonday Rock

FANNY SHOAL

2> North Faral Ions VICINITY MAP

- i/Z

KEY *Middle Farallon

EXCLUDED FROM WILDERNESS

FARALLON WILDERNESS PROPOSAL Maintop Farallon National Wildlife Refuge Island California Southeast Farallon

OCTOBER 1969 lfl*»' REVISED MARCH 1970 I

(PRELIMINARY- SUBJECT TO CHANGE) SOCIAL AND ECONOMIC CONSIDERATIONS

The Farallon Islands comprise an important breeding area which makes a significant contribution to the birdlife of the Pacific Coastal region. They will assume continuing importance as a rather unique attraction!*) people of the Bay Area megalopolis in search of meaningful diversions from an urban environment. The proximity of the islands to Point Reyes Bird Observatory, San Francisco State College and other scientific and educational institutions in this area, give them importance as an outdoor laboratory providing opportunities for studies of a natural marine environment—an environment essentially unaffected by man's influence.

CONCLUSIONS Western full, an abundant nesting species

All of the Farallon Islands possess wilderness qualities. However, Southeast Farallon Island is not suitable for consideration at Elephant seals hauled out on the this time because of human habitation and Southeast Farallons physical improvements. The balance of the islands, comprising about 140 acres and including the small rocks and islets adjacent to Southeast Farallon Island, are suitable for consideration as wilderness. The U.S. Coast Guard is automating the navigational light on Southeast Farallon, and may remove resident personnel if the automated light works satisfactorily. If it does become possible to remove the evidence of man's occupancy (in a practical sense), then this important island will be suitable for consideration as wilderness. Wilderness designation of the suitable portion of this refuge is entirely compatible with the purposes for which it was established, and would enhance the existing ob- jective of preserving physical and biological qualities in a natural condition for optimum -*•* wildlife use and productivity.

18 i »