Synopsis of Exploring London Walks
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SPELTHORNE U3AK2 “EXPLORING LONDON” WALK SYNOPSIS WALK 1 – PORTOBELLO MARKET, NOTTING HILL DISTANCE: 4 miles (with possible add on for a detour through Kensington Gardens) GETTING THERE AND BACK START: Ladbroke Grove on the Hammersmith and City Line Via Waterloo to Baker Street change to Hammersmith and City to Ladbroke Grove Or District Line from Richmond to Hammersmith and then Hammersmith and City Line to Ladbroke Grove FINISH: Notting Hill Gate or Queensway (Circle Line) to Bond Street – change to Jubilee to Waterloo ROUTE AND REFRESHMENTS The major problem on this walk is a dearth of Public Toilets, and no clear stopping place for Lunch. There is certainly no shortage of places to have Coffee or snacks, so you will have to make sure that you select a cafe that has Toilets available. The walk starts from Ladbroke Grove Station, and goes the short distance to Portobello Green where you can hopefully find Coffee+Toilet facilities. Portobello Market spreads for about 1 km going from the cheaper end to the more salubrious antique market at the top of the road. It is likely to be very crowded, and it will be much easier to have free time to wander along at your own pace, and meet at place, time suggested by the leader. Continuing to the “peak” of Notting Hill we reach the church of St. John’s which has toilets and a café (sadly only open mid week). After a downhill stretch the route continues and crosses over Holland Park Avenue before a short uphill climb to reach Campden Hill, a very select and salubrious part of Kensington where there is a reasonable pub. The optional end to the walk is at Notting Hill Gate or you may wish to continue to the official end to the walk in Kensington Gardens where there is a tea kiosk and Toilets. Return is then from Queensway Tube station. INFORMATION If you have seen the film, “Notting Hill” or been to the Carnival, then you are already familiar with the area of Notting Hill. The Westway divides the area into 2 distinctive regions; to the north lie housing estates and multiple occupancy dwellings, and to the south the leafier, gentrified areas of Notting and Campden Hills. The Carnival wends its way for 3 miles around the area from North Kensington down as far as Westbourne Grove and then returns northwards along Ladbroke Grove. Begun in 1959, as a direct response to the Notting Hill Race Riots of the previous year, it moved out onto the streets in 1965. Mainly Caribbean, it is the second largest street festival in the world after Rio. Portobello Road in the middle of this route feels like a true mixture of both of these areas. It is called Portobello Road after an infamous battle in the Caribbean in 1739 when a certain Admiral Vernon captured the town of Puerto Bello – a battle that had begun over the slicing off of Sea Captain Jenkin’s ear by Spanish Coastguards during a fracas the previous year. The victory over the Spanish put the name of Puerto Bello on the map and in this area of London one landowner called his fields Portobello Farm. The market that now inhabits the road that ran through his fields has grown dynamically since 1927 into the wonderful eclectic mix that Portobello Road is famous for today - including the Bookshop featured in the film “Notting Hill”. Updated July 2019 SPELTHORNE U3AK2 “EXPLORING LONDON” WALK SYNOPSIS WALK 2 – A VENTURE INTO SPITALFIELDS DISTANCE: Under 4 miles GETTING THERE AND BACK START: Aldgate East Underground Station (District Line from Richmond) FINISH: Liverpool Street Station (Bus 26 return to Waterloo) ROUTE AND REFRESHMENTS The stroll is less than 4 miles, but there are many twists and turns! There are also many opportunities for refreshment stops. We begin at the Whitechapel Art Gallery where there are toilets and a café, which is fairly small and quite expensive but nice! It is worth taking a few minutes in the Gallery. If you prefer there is also a Starbucks nearby, and maybe other coffee shops. We then walk a short distance to see the site of the former Whitechapel Bell Foundry close to the Royal London Hospital and retrace our steps to enter the heart of Spitalfields at the spot where Jack the Ripper’s first victim was discovered! From here the fascinating history of this part of London is slowly revealed. We walk along Brick Lane with its assortment of Bangladeshi shops and restaurants, and through the old Brewery to eventually reach Spitalfields Market where there are plenty of eating places and also a quiet garden where you can eat your own sandwiches if you have brought them with you. The final part of the stroll takes us along part of Petticoat Lane to emerge at Liverpool Street Station. INFORMATION Spitalfields is perhaps one of the most fascinating areas of London, situated as it is on the interface between the City and the sprawling suburbs of today’s East London. Its location, close to the City and Docklands, has led to waves of incomers from many different cultures settling in the area. It is in the Borough of Tower Hamlets which is so named because in 1554 the Tower of London had the right to order a muster of men from 13 small villages to the east, to provide guard duty at the Tower. By 1675 (after The Fire), there were 1300 houses crowded into small streets and alleyways. The first incomers were poor Protestant French Hugenots after the Edict of Nantes in 1685. They were master silk weavers, dyers, and retailers and built houses with large light upper floors meeting the demand for rich silks by Regency and Georgian fashion trendies. The area became a stronghold of Protestant non-conformity and Christchurch was built in 1711 to counter this! Waves of Irish Roman Catholic immigrants some of whom were linen weavers looking for work began to come into the area from the 1730s. The result was a social mix that led to overcrowding and appalling poverty. The first Jewish settlers were rich Sephardic merchants from Spain/Portugal , followed by Ashkenazim Jews early in 1700s who developed Jewellery businesses, and later between 1880-1970, the area was probably the largest Jewish community in Europe with 40 synagogues. Refugees flooded in from all over Europe and Russia, and developed the Jewish clothes/tailoring businesses. Jack the Ripper’s victims lived in the “grim warren” of streets and alleyways of Spitalfields and Whitechapel, and died there between April and November 1888. The Jewish community gradually moved to Golders Green and other north west London boroughs, leaving the economically run down area to become, from the 1960s, the home of Bangladeshi refugees from Pakistan, who now fill Petticoat Lane and Brick Lane once more with rich silks – but now in the form of Saris! The Spitalfields Trust formed in 1977 has saved many of the Georgian buildings we thankfully can still see today. The area in the 1930s was the focus of extreme political figures such as the British Fascist Party, and has continued to be home to many radical political extremists. Spitalfields has thus absorbed wave after wave of immigrant communities and that is the rich amalgam that we see today Updated June 2019 SPELTHORNE U3AK2 “EXPLORING LONDON” WALK SYNOPSIS WALK 3 – DOING THE “GREEN” LAMBETH WALK DISTANCE: 3 Miles GETTING THERE AND BACK START: Waterloo Station FINISH: Waterloo Station ROUTE AND REFRESHMENTS This is an unusual walk which is designed to show that even in the heart of London there are plenty of green spaces. There are many places throughout the route where it is possible to sit and eat your own refreshments if the weather is fine. The first main stopping place is the Imperial War Museum, which has one café inside the building, and another outside. The Museum itself is free, The Toilets are situated downstairs and the café is on the ground floor. The walk continues through some interesting parts of Lambeth, passing a wide variety of housing and open spaces, to reach Lambeth Palace. Here there is another opportunity for tea/coffee/toilets at the Museum of Garden History. However there is a charge to look around the Museum itself. The last part of the route is through Archbishops Park and St. Thomas’s Hospital – quite a surprise here as well, and it finishes on the South Bank at the Festival Hall. INFORMATION The Borough of Lambeth is located between the Borough of Southwark on the east, and Wandsworth on the west. The name Lambeth may conjure up images of social deprivation associated with the inner city. However as we shall see, real efforts have been made to improve the quality of the environment, and Lambeth prides itself on the amount of green spaces within its boundaries. It actually includes the South Bank Complex and Lambeth Palace. Historically it was a marshy area crossed only by a few raised roads hardly suitable for habitation, and therefore not surprising that, unlike the north bank of the Thames, the area is not steeped in history. However it really is amazing just what can be discovered! From medieval times Southwark had become the entertainment hub of London, attracting the rich to the countryside on the other side of London Bridge. However the poor were also driven out of the city of London and alongside the rich houses there also grew up the most appalling squalid housing totally lacking in sanitation where people lived in abject poverty. As space became even more cramped, there was an overspill into Lambeth which grew in the 1700s as a few industries developed in the area.