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Model Commodities: Gender and Value in Contemporary Couture
Model Commodities: Gender and Value in Contemporary Couture By Xiaoyu Elena Wang A dissertation submitted in partial satisfaction of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Political Science in the Graduate Division of the University of California, Berkeley Committee in charge: Professor Wendy L. Brown, Chair Professor Shannon C. Stimson Professor Ramona Naddaff Professor Julia Q. Bryan-Wilson Spring 2015 Abstract Model Commodities: Gender and Value in Contemporary Couture by Xiaoyu Elena Wang Doctor of Philosophy in Political Science University of California, Berkeley Professor Wendy L. Brown, Chair Every January and June, the most exclusive and influential sector of the global apparel industry stages a series of runway shows in the high fashion, or, couture capitals of New York, Milan, London and Paris. This dissertation explores the production of material goods and cultural ideals in contemporary couture, drawing on scholarly and anecdotal accounts of the business of couture clothes as well as the business of couture models to understand the disquieting success of marketing luxury goods through bodies that appear to signify both extreme wealth and extreme privation. This dissertation argues that the contemporary couture industry idealizes a mode of violence that is unique in couture’s history. The industry’s shift of emphasis toward the mass market in the late 20th-century entailed divestments in the integrity of garment production and modeling employment. Contemporary couture clothes and models are promoted as high-value objects, belying however a material impoverishment that can be read from the models’ physiques and miens. 1 Table of Contents I. The enigma of couture…………………………………………………………………………..1 1. -
This Book Is a Compendium of New Wave Posters. It Is Organized Around the Designers (At Last!)
“This book is a compendium of new wave posters. It is organized around the designers (at last!). It emphasizes the key contribution of Eastern Europe as well as Western Europe, and beyond. And it is a very timely volume, assembled with R|A|P’s usual flair, style and understanding.” –CHRISTOPHER FRAYLING, FROM THE INTRODUCTION 2 artbook.com French New Wave A Revolution in Design Edited by Tony Nourmand. Introduction by Christopher Frayling. The French New Wave of the 1950s and 1960s is one of the most important movements in the history of film. Its fresh energy and vision changed the cinematic landscape, and its style has had a seminal impact on pop culture. The poster artists tasked with selling these Nouvelle Vague films to the masses—in France and internationally—helped to create this style, and in so doing found themselves at the forefront of a revolution in art, graphic design and photography. French New Wave: A Revolution in Design celebrates explosive and groundbreaking poster art that accompanied French New Wave films like The 400 Blows (1959), Jules and Jim (1962) and The Umbrellas of Cherbourg (1964). Featuring posters from over 20 countries, the imagery is accompanied by biographies on more than 100 artists, photographers and designers involved—the first time many of those responsible for promoting and portraying this movement have been properly recognized. This publication spotlights the poster designers who worked alongside directors, cinematographers and actors to define the look of the French New Wave. Artists presented in this volume include Jean-Michel Folon, Boris Grinsson, Waldemar Świerzy, Christian Broutin, Tomasz Rumiński, Hans Hillman, Georges Allard, René Ferracci, Bruno Rehak, Zdeněk Ziegler, Miroslav Vystrcil, Peter Strausfeld, Maciej Hibner, Andrzej Krajewski, Maciej Zbikowski, Josef Vylet’al, Sandro Simeoni, Averardo Ciriello, Marcello Colizzi and many more. -
Thing of Beauty: the Tragedy of Supermodel Gia Free
FREE THING OF BEAUTY: THE TRAGEDY OF SUPERMODEL GIA PDF Stephen Fried | 384 pages | 01 Aug 1994 | SIMON & SCHUSTER | 9780671701055 | English | New York, United States Thing of Beauty: The Tragedy of Supermodel Gia by Fried, Stephen Hardback Book | eBay Goodreads helps you keep track of books you want to read. Want to Read saving…. Want to Read Currently Reading Read. Other editions. Thing of Beauty: The Tragedy of Supermodel Gia cover. Error rating book. Refresh and try again. Open Preview See a Problem? Details if other :. Thanks for telling us about the problem. Return to Book Page. Preview — Thing of Beauty by Stephen Fried. At age seventeen, Gia Carangi was working the counter at her father's Philadelphia luncheonette, in Hoagie City. Within a year, Gia was one of the top models of the late 's, gracing the covers of Cosmopolitan and Vogue, partying at New York's Studio 54 and the Mudd Club while redefining the industry's standard of beauty. She was the darling of moguls and movie stars, r At age seventeen, Gia Thing of Beauty: The Tragedy of Supermodel Gia was working the counter at her father's Philadelphia luncheonette, in Hoagie City. She was the darling of moguls and movie stars, royalty and rockers. Gia was also a girl in pain, desperate for her mother's approval. Finally blackballed from modeling, Gia entered a vastly different world on the streets of New york and Atlantic City, and later in a rehab clinic. At twenty- six, she became one of the first women in America to die of AIDS; a hospital welfare case visited only by rehab friends and what remained of her family. -
The AIDS Epidemic at 20 Years: in the FIRST SIX MONTHS… SELECTED MILESTONES
THE HENRY J. KAISER FAMILY 2001 Number of U.S. AIDS cases Number of U.S. AIDS-related Estimated number of Estimated number of people Estimated number of FOUNDATION reported since the beginning deaths reported since the Americans living with living with HIV/AIDS globally cumulative AIDS-related of the epidemic beginning of the epidemic HIV/AIDS deaths throughout the world 2001 The AIDS Epidemic At 20 Years: IN THE FIRST SIX MONTHS… SELECTED MILESTONES Major Sources Menlo Park, CA On June 5, 1981, the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention issued its 2400 Sand Hill Road African American AIDS Policy and Training Institute, The NIA first warning about a relatively rare form of pneumonia among a small group of Menlo Park, CA 94025 Plan, 1999; AIDS Memorial Quilt History, www.aidsquilt.com; young gay men in Los Angeles, which was later determined to be AIDS-related. 650 854-9400 tel AIDS Project Los Angeles, APLA History, www.apla.org; AIDS-Arts 650 854-4800 fax Timeline, www.ArtistswithAIDS.org; American Foundation for AIDS Over the past 20 years, there have been many milestones in the HIV/AIDS epidemic. Research (amfAR); Arno, P. and Frieden, K., Against the Odds: Each of us has our own history that no single set of milestones can adequately The Story of AIDS Drug Development, Politics, and Profits, Washington, DC reflect. Yet, certain events stand out. They captured public attention, causing the Harper Collins: New York, 1992; Being Alive Los Angeles; Global 1450 G Street NW Health Council; Joint United Nations Programme on HIV/AIDS Suite 250 nation – and indeed the world – to stop and take notice. -
Randy Shilts Papers
RANDY SHILTS PAPERS 1955-1994 Collection number: GLC 43 The James C. Hormel Gay and Lesbian Center San Francisco Public Library 2005 Randy Shilts Papers GLC 43 p. 2 Gay and Lesbian Center, San Francisco Public Library TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction p. 3-4 Biography p. 5 Scope and Content p. 6 Series Description p. 7-8 Container Listing p. 9-43 Series 1: Personal Papers, 1965-1994 Series 2: Professional Papers, 1975-1994 Series 2a: Journalism, 1975-1994 p.9-19 Series 2b: Books, 1980-1994 Series 3: Gay Research Files, 1973-1994 Series 4: AIDS Research Files, 1983-1994 Series 5: Audio-visual Materials, 1955-1994 Randy Shilts Papers GLC 43 p. 3 Gay and Lesbian Center, San Francisco Public Library INTRODUCTION Provenance The Randy Shilts Papers were donated to The San Francisco Public Library by the Estate of Randy Shilts in 1994. Access The collection is open for research and available in the San Francisco History Center on the 6th Floor of the Main Library. The hours are: Tues.-Thurs. 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Fri. 12 noon-6 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. and Sun. 12 noon-5 p.m. Publication Rights All requests for permission to publish or quote from manuscripts should be addressed to Michael Denneny, Literary Executor, St. Martin’s Press, 175 – 5th Avenue, New York, NY, 10010. Collection Number GLC 43 Size ca. 120 cu. ft. Materials Stored Separately Photographs, slides and negatives are stored with the San Francisco History Center’s Historical Photograph Collection and are available on Tuesdays and Thursdays 1-5 p.m. -
Testimony of Janice Dickinson
IN THE COURT OF COMMON PLEAS IN AND FOR THE COUNTY OF MONTGOMERY, PENNSYLVANIA CRIMINAL DIVISION COMMONWEALTH OF PENNSYLVANIA: vs. NO. 3932-16 WILLIAM H. COSBY, JR. TESTIMONY OF JANICE DICKINSON Courtroom A Thursday, April 12, 2018 Commencing at 11:27 a.m. Virginia M. Womelsdorf, RPR Official Court Reporter Montgomery County Courthouse Norristown, Pennsylvania BEFORE: THE HONORABLE STEVEN T. O'NEILL, JUDGE AND A JURY COUNSEL APPEARED AS FOLLOWS: KEVIN R. STEELE, ESQUIRE District Attorney M. STEWART RYAN, ESQUIRE KRISTEN GIBBONS-FEDEN, ESQUIRE Assistant District Attorneys for the Commonwealth LANE L. VINES, ESQUIRE THOMAS A. MESEREAU, JR., ESQUIRE KATHLEEN BLISS, ESQUIRE JASON HICKS, ESQUIRE BECKY S. JAMES, ESQUIRE RACHAEL ROBINSON, ESQUIRE JAYA GUPTA, ESQUIRE for the Defendant ALSO PRESENT: JONATHAN PERRONE, Computer Operations Supervisor Montgomery County District Attorney's Office INDEX COMMONWEALTH'S EVIDENCE Witness VDire Direct Cross Redir Recr JANICE DICKINSON 4 37 83 EXHIBITS COMMONWEALTH'S Number Description Marked Rec'd C-11 Photograph 19 20 C712 Photograph 19 20 C-13 Photograph 19 20 C-14 Declaration of Pablo Fenjvez 87 Ct-15 Declaration of Judith Regan 94 4 1 JANICE DICKINSON - DIRECT 2 THE COURT: Okay. You may call your 3 next witness. 4 MR. RYAN: Thank you, Your Honor. 5 Janice Dickinson. 6 - - - 7 JANICE DICKINSON, having been duly 8 sworn, was examined and testified as 9 follows: 10 DIRECT EXAMINATION 11 By MR. RYAN: 12 Q Good morning, Janice. 13 A Good morning. 14 Q Can you tell me where you live? 15 A I live in Tarzana, California. 16 Q And who do you live with? 17 My husband, Rocky Gerner. -
Fall 2021 Catalog Download
Fall 2021 Contents New Titles 5 Collector’s Editions 29 Toiletpaper 51 Backlist 57 Photography 58 Contemporary Art 70 Fashion & Lifestyle 72 Architecture & Design 74 Antiques & Collectibles 74 Distributors 76 Contacts & Press Office 78 New Titles 6 Photography Mike Mandel Zone Eleven Photographs by Ansel Adams Zone Eleven is a reference to Ansel Adams’ Zone System, a method to control exposure of the negative in order to obtain a full range of tonality in the photographic print from the deepest black of Zone 0 to the brightest highlight in Zone 10. Zone Eleven is a metaphor coined by artist Mike Mandel in his challenge to create a book of Adams’ photographs outside of the bounds of his personal work. Many of these photographs were found in the archives of his commercial and editorial assignments, and from his experimentation with the new Polaroid material of the times. For this book, Mandel has unearthed images that are unexpected for Adams, and created a new context of facing Text by Erin O'Toole page relationships, and sequence. Zone Eleven is the product 28 x 23 cm | 11 x 9 inches of Mike Mandel’s research of over 50,000 Adams images 112 pages, 83 b&w, hardbound located within four different archives to present a body of ISBN 978-88-6208-748-3 Fall 2021 Adams’ work that was unknown until now. $55 | €50 | £45 Mike Mandel is well known for his collaboration with Larry Sultan in the 1970s - 1990s. They published 'Evidence' in 1977, a collection of 59 photographs chosen from more than two million images that the artists viewed at the archives of government agencies and tech-oriented corporations. -
Dissertation Reconsidering Randy Shilts
DISSERTATION RECONSIDERING RANDY SHILTS: EXAMINING THE REPORTAGE OF AMERICA’S AIDS CHRONICLER Submitted by Andrew E. Stoner Department of Journalism and Technical Communication In partial fulfillment of the requirements For the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy Colorado State University Fort Collins, Colorado Fall 2013 Doctoral Committee: Advisor: James C. Landers Joseph E. Champ Patrick D. Plaisance Michael J. Hogan Richard Breaux Copyright by Andrew E. Stoner 2013 All Rights Reserved ABSTRACT RECONSIDERING RANDY SHILTS: EXAMINING THE REPORTAGE OF AMERICA’S AIDS CHRONICLER The role of openly-gay reporter and author Randy Shilts (1951-1994) is examined related to his use of journalistic practices and places him on a continuum of traditional reporting roles as considered in the context of twentieth century philosophers Walter Lippmann and John Dewey. Reporter functions demonstrated by Shilts are examined, including those dictated by expectations of either strong journalistic influence over society and media consumers, or those more aligned with democratic practices where education and participation emphasize strong roles for society and media consumers. Using a biographical approach including 17 primary source interviews of former colleagues, critics, sources and family/friends, the examination of Shilts’s work as both a reporter and noted author is presented as being heavily influenced by his forthcoming attitudes about disclosure of his sexual orientation from the start of his career and his desire to explain or unpack aspects of gay culture, and ultimately the AIDS crisis, to heterosexual audiences. Careful examination of the posthumous critique of Shilts’s work – including his construction of Patient Zero – is undertaken. The study concludes that Shilts fully engaged a Lippmann-esque approach embodied in an authoritarian role for journalism that sought to change the world in which it was offered, and did so perhaps most influentially during the earliest days of the HIV/AIDS pandemic in America. -
And the Band Played On: Politics, People, and the AIDS Epidemic
Excerpt from And the Band Played On: “It was a truism to people active in the gay movement that the greatest impediments to homosexuals' progress often were not heterosexual bigots but closeted homosexuals. Among the nation's decision makers, the homophobes largely had been silenced by the (Sommerdorf) prevailing morality that viewed expressions of overt hostility toward gays as unfashionable. In References fact, when not burdened by private sexual insecurities, many heterosexuals could be David. 1000 panels of the AIDS Memorial Quilt on enlisted to support gays on the basis of Ellipse. 2004. CC BY 2.0 personal integrity. By definition, the homosexual in the closet had surrendered his Parsons, Julie. “In Praise of Older Books: And The integrity. This makes closeted homosexual Band Played On By Randy Shilts (1987). people very useful to the establishment. [...] The closeted homosexual is far less likely to The Irish Times, 17 Feb. 2018. demand fair or just treatment for his kind, https://www.irishtimes.com/culture/book because to do so would call attention to s/in-praise-of-older-books-and-the-band- himself.” played-on-by-randy-shilts-1987-1.3391912 AND THE Shilts, Randy. And the Band Played On: Politics, People, and the AIDS Epidemic. St. Martins BAND PLAYED Griffin, 2007. Note: You must cite both print sources ON: POLITICS, Sommerdorf, Scott. [Image of Randy Shilts]. 1987, and images you use in your brochure and/or poster. http://www.sfgate.com/health/article/Ra PEOPLE, AND ndy-Shilts-was-gutsy-brash-and- unforgettable-2794975.php. THE AIDS by Randy Shilts Add a heading here Add more information for your reader here. -
Transition of Blame: the Othering of AIDS from Homosexuals to Africans
Syracuse University SURFACE Syracuse University Honors Program Capstone Syracuse University Honors Program Capstone Projects Projects Spring 5-1-2009 Transition of Blame: The Othering of AIDS from Homosexuals to Africans Claire S. Zillman Follow this and additional works at: https://surface.syr.edu/honors_capstone Part of the African History Commons, and the History of Science, Technology, and Medicine Commons Recommended Citation Zillman, Claire S., "Transition of Blame: The Othering of AIDS from Homosexuals to Africans" (2009). Syracuse University Honors Program Capstone Projects. 487. https://surface.syr.edu/honors_capstone/487 This Honors Capstone Project is brought to you for free and open access by the Syracuse University Honors Program Capstone Projects at SURFACE. It has been accepted for inclusion in Syracuse University Honors Program Capstone Projects by an authorized administrator of SURFACE. For more information, please contact [email protected]. 1 Table of Contents Acknowledgements 2 Introduction 3 Sources: The New York Times and The San Francisco Chronicle 5 Historiography and Theory: Sontag to Foucault 15 Chapter One : The Epidemiology of AIDS: How “Gay Cancer” Became an Epidemic 25 Indicators of an Epidemic 26 The Biology Behind the Epidemic 30 The Biological Origin of an Epidemic 31 The Evolution of AIDS Transmission 36 Chapter Two : Setting the Othering Template: News Coverage of Homosexuals With AIDS 41 Reacting to an Epidemic: The New York Times and Charles Rosenberg 42 The San Francisco Chronicle’s Coverage of AIDS and -
167558354.Pdf
ngelina Jolie (/dʒoʊˈliː/ joh-LEE, born Angelina Jolie Voight; June 4, 1975) is an American actress, film director, and screenwriter. She has received an Academy Award, two Screen Actors Guild Awards, and three Golden Globe Awards, and was named Hollywood's highest-paid actress by Forbes in 2009 and 2011.[2][3] Jolie promotes humanitarian causes, and is noted for her work with refugees as a Special Envoy and former Goodwill Ambassador for the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR). She has often been cited as the world's "most beautiful" woman, a title for which she has received substantial media attention.[4][5][6][7] Jolie made her screen debut as a child alongside her father Jon Voight in Lookin' to Get Out (1982), but her film career began in earnest a decade later with the low-budget production Cyborg 2 (1993). Her first leading role in a major film was in the cyber- thrillerHackers (1995). She starred in the critically acclaimed biographical television films George Wallace (1997) and Gia (1998), and won an Academy Award for Best Supporting Actress for her performance in the drama Girl, Interrupted (1999). Jolie achieved wide fame after her portrayal of the video game heroine Lara Croft in Lara Croft: Tomb Raider (2001), and established herself among the highest-paid actresses in Hollywood with the sequel The Cradle of Life (2003).[8] She continued her action star career with Mr. & Mrs. Smith (2005), Wanted (2008), and Salt (2010)—her biggest live-action commercial successes to date[9]—and received further critical acclaim for her performances in the dramas A Mighty Heart (2007) and Changeling (2008), which earned her a nomination for an Academy Award for Best Actress. -
World Aids Day Timeline 1978 – 2018
MARYLAND DEPARTMENT OF HEALTH WORLD AIDS DAY TIMELINE 1978 – 2018 Prevention and Health Promotion Administration Infectious Disease Prevention and Health Services Bureau Mission and Vision MISSION The mission of the Prevention and Health Promotion Administration (PHPA) is to protect, promote, and improve the health and well-being of all Marylanders and their families through provision of public health leadership and through community-based public health efforts in partnership with local health departments, providers, community based organizations, and public and private sector agencies, giving special attention to at-risk and vulnerable populations. VISION PHPA envisions a future in which all Marylanders and their families enjoy optimal health and well-being. 2 The Beginning: 1978 The virus has entered the U.S. and is being transmitted among the first cases. 3 1981 • Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) publishes first report of a rare pneumonia (PCP) in five gay men in Los Angeles • Gaëtan Dugas — Patient Zero — a French-Canadian flight attendant suspected of being a major source of the early spread of AIDS in North America • The first Kaposi’s Sarcoma cases reported in New York and Los Angeles • New term — Gay Related Immune Deficiency (GRID) 200 cumulative cases reported 4 1982 • Cases identified among gay men, injecting drug users, hemophiliacs, and infants • GRID becomes Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome (AIDS) • First transfusion related case identified • Worry over contaminated blood supply • First AIDS cases, known as “slims,” reported in Rakai, Uganda 5 1983 • Two heterosexual females exposed through sexual contact with infected males • French and U.S. scientists conclude the likely cause of AIDS is a retrovirus • CDC establishes AIDS case definition • Blood industry refuses to screen donations 6 1984 Dr.