DEAR GEMüTLICHKEIT SUBSCRIBER The Travel Letter for Germany, , Switzerland & the New Europe

Avoiding Car Rental Problems The proper position to assume at European rental car counters these THE days is “on your toes.” More than ever, renters need to be aware of a Small villages, big valleys, mighty mountains, affordable hotels, simple cuisine, and a tradi- few tricky elements in the rental tional way of life are the main attractions of this quiet river valley southwest of . process. Substantial inconvenience arely 45 minutes from and extra costs may be the penalty the Valley Vacation Re- Salzburg, the for inattention. gion — take admirable advantage B offers a quiet, rural escape. of the Saalach’s diversity and draw. Seemingly minor items that The Saalach River is the lesser- By representing most towns, hotels many renters pay scant attention to known sister of the Salzach, the river and attractions in the area, they can create major problems. that divides Salzburg’s Old and New make things easy for visitors. A spare tire, for example. Does Cities. The two streams al- There are few large towns in the your car have one? It’s a question By Jim most touch near , Johnson region, part of Salzburg’s Pinzgau you need to answer before leaving then merge about 100 kilo- district; smaller villages are more the rental station. There is a thriving meters (62 miles) down-river just past typical. Many farmers still plant black market in Europe for auto Salzburg. During its flight of inde- and harvest by hand, and village parts, and rental cars are sometimes pendence, the Saalach expresses its life revolves around the church and returned without a spare wheel and own personality, and its valley has the market square. Towns seem tire. It’s an absence easily over- great charm. ‘lived in’ and not focused only on looked when rental stations are un- Except for a brief sojourn in Ger- tourism. Through the centuries, der pressure to fuel, vacuum and many, the Saalach spends its entire much of the region’s income has wash cars as quickly as possible in life in Salzburg Province, where two come from the salt trade, a fact order to return them to service. This major tourism consortia — the Saal- reflected in the prefixes “Saal” and year two customers of Gemütlich- felden-Leogang Holiday Region and Continued on page 3… keit’s car rental booking service found out the hard way that they didn’t have a spare tire. In one case, the customer was in a remote part of Readers’ Forum Italy and the inconvenience was (Readers’ Forum is one of this publi- Happy With Current Mix major; instead of discovering the cation’s most popular features. This It seems to me that over the Tuscan countryside, she found her- month we’ll try to make up for the scant years you have maintained a very self dealing with tow trucks, auto amount of space devoted to it in the past good balance with respect to value dealerships, car rental companies few issues.) of accommodations. I am a little and shelling out substantial taxi Less Expensive Hotels, Please concerned about the Aim Higher fares. The money, of course, is reim- folks. Perhaps they should rent an I would like to see more reviews bursable, but lost vacation time can apartment on the Queen Mary and of lesser-priced lodgings. Definitely! never be adequately compensated. leave the rest of us in misery. 99% of your picks are way out of MAYNARD WOOD Unbelievable Fuel Prices bounds for me. I like to be more like VIA EMAIL Here’s a relatively minor item the natives over there. Closer to aver- that can cost you $50 to $225. It’s age citizens. A Little Luxury is O.K. early morning and you’re in your We are original subscribers, and Your article on Austria’s Lungau rental car headed for the Munich I just want to tell you to keep up the is a perfect example! I love it. I leave Airport to catch a flight home. Run- great job. More specifically, we trav- April 19 for three weeks in Germany, ning just a few minutes late you eled to Italy last month, and seeing Continued on page 2… Austria and der Suisse. I expect I will your repeated comments that it is so spend many days in the Lungau area! much better to forget taking Ameri- in this issue Especially at the Hansalhof. This is can Express traveler’s checks, but p1 The Saalach Valley exactly what I look for. Continued on page 6… p1 Car Rental Dangers PETER ANDRESHAK Exchange rates as of 11/22/04 p1 Readers’ Forum WASUAU, WI 1 euro = $1.30 P4 Key Websites 1 Swiss franc = $0.86 http://www.gemut.com December 04/January 05 http://www.gemut.com DEAR SUBSCRIBER al cost and you need to know precise- hundred dollars. In any case, our ly how much. advice is to rely on a credit card for Continued from page 1 Some rental agents are quick to collision and theft coverage — it’s decide to let Avis top off the gas offer a larger, better car but soft-pedal free and there’s no deductible. tank. You filled up yesterday in the added cost. In some instances we Smart Renter Strategies Garmisch-Partenkirchen and can’t are aware of, customers have been have used more than four gallons. offered upgrades for “only an addi- Here’s a short check-list that It’ll cost a few extra bucks but it’s tional €5 per day.” Figuring it would should help smooth your European worth it for the convenience, right? cost them less than $50 per week, rental car experience. Well, yes, provided you consider $60 several said O.K. Much later, back in • When booking a car in Europe, or $70 a “few extra bucks.” You see, the U.S., they were shocked when find out if the rate is guaranteed in € Avis is currently charging 3.19 per their credit card bills arrived and euros or U.S. dollars. Many compa- liter if they have to fill your tank they found the charge to be much nies guarantee their overseas book- when you return your car to the Mu- higher than anticipated. When they ings in foreign currency. If you re- nich Airport. Four gallons equals heard “€5 per day,” these customers served a car guaranteed in euros on € about 15.14 liters. At 3.19 per liter understandably assumed it meant €5 August 1 for pickup on November 6 € that’s 48 or approximately $62 at more than what their voucher called you will pay about 8% more in U.S. today’s exchange rate — approxi- for. What the not-so-bright (or not-so- dollars than on the booking date. In mately $15.50 per gallon. If you want forthright) rental agent meant, how- addition, when issuing a quote in to let them fill up a 14-gallon tank ever, was that the upgrade was only foreign currency, most companies figure on about $218. €5 higher than the company’s walk- estimate the price in dollars using a Don’t Like Your Car? in counter rate — a price much high- very favorable exchange rate. When it Sometimes the car offered at the er than the discounted rate specified comes time to pay, however, it is very rental car counter doesn’t suit the by these customers’ vouchers. likely you won’t get such a friendly customer’s needs. It’s too big, too Extra Driver Charges Vary rate of exchange. small, doesn’t have automatic trans- Need a passenger to share driving • If you need to change a Gemütli- mission, doesn’t have a stick shift, Continued on page 8… duties? The counter agent will be isn’t a diesel, is a diesel, and so on. If happy to add another name to the Using Gemütlichkeit the voucher specifies a feature not on contract and then charge you as • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Discounts are the car offered — automatic trans- often available for longer stays. much as $135 per rental. Exactly how mission, for example — bringing the • All hotel prices include breakfast unless otherwise much each additional driver will cost discrepancy to the attention of the noted. is probably something you’ll want to • Local European telephone area codes carry the “0” rental agent usually solves the prob- know before committing to do so. required for in-country dialing. To phone establish- lem. (If it doesn’t, we’ll tell you what ments from outside the country, such as from the USA, to do a bit later in this article.) But Insurance Problems do not dial the first “0”. let’s say your voucher/reservation Of course, the classic rental-car- Logging on to our Website and what you’re being offered are in surprise-charge-on-the-credit-card- Back issues in text format from January 1993, except for sync; you simply want something bill involves the purchase of the op- the most recent 12, are available free to subscribers only at better. At this point the agent may tional theft and collision insurance. If http://www.gemut.com (click on “Members”). To ac- offer an upgrade. Do not assume it’s your initials appear on the contract in cess the issues enter the user name and password pub- lished in this space each month. The new codes are: out of the goodness of his heart. The the “Ja” or “Qui” portion of the insur- User Name: zach Password: 3331 upgrade is going to involve addition- ance box it could cost you several

Vol. 18, No. 10 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY Dec./Jan. 2004/05 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers: Robert Robert H. H.& Elizabeth& Elizabeth S. S. Bestor Bestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Editor: Robert Robert H. H. Bestor Bestor Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Contributors:Senior Wrtier:Doug Linton, C. Fischer, R. Holliday, Jim Jim Johnson Johnson Adequate 4 - 7 WebContributors: Master: Mark Honan,Paul T. Nikki Merschdorf Goth Itoi Unacceptable 0 - 3 Consulting Editor: Editor: Thomas Thomas P. P. Bestor Bestor Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale SubscriptionOnline Services: Dept: Kurt Kurt Steffans Steffans People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 Subscriber Travel Travel Services: Services: Andy Andy Bestor, Bestor, Laura Laura Riedel Riedel Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 11 times each year by UpCountry Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 Publishing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521- Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail [email protected]. Web Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $67 per year for 11 issues. While every effort is made to provide correct information in this publication, the Special G Designation publishers can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. By virtue of location, decor, charm, warmth of management, or POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: combination thereof, an especially pleasant establishment. Gemütlichkeit, 288 Ridge Road., Ashland OR 97520 Gemütlichkeit 2 December 04/January 05 http://www.gemut.com SAALACH VALLEY Saalach Valley Basics village’s history, charm and pastoral Continued from page 1 Elevation: () 626 meters/2054 feet setting, flock to its ski slopes and to Tourist Info: Salzburger Saalachtal, A- “traditional” folklore evenings with “Salz” that append many place 5090 Lofer 310, tel: +43/6588/8321-0, fax: ooompa music, lederhosen and names. 6588/7464, email: [email protected], dance. web: www.salzburger-saalachtal.info Headquarters Leogang, heart of the region Leogang Tourism, Bahnhof- The towns and villages make strasse 10, A-5760 Saalfelden, tel: +43/ A short detour from the Saalach great “base camps” for both adven- 6582/70660, fax: 6582/75398, email: (and overall a more desirable desti- turous and cultural exploration. Ad- [email protected], web: nation than ) is Leogang, venturous types can hike, raft, climb, www.saalfelden-leogang.at the geographic heart of the region paraglide and bike (from tough Nearest Airport: Salzburg and an old farming village that has downhill terrain to gentle bike paths). Driving Distances: (from Leogang) grown up a bit thanks to prosperous Others can just watch or take in the Salzburg 66 km 41 miles skiing seasons. Typically for the re- atmosphere. Innsbruck 141 km 87 miles gion, Leogang earns most of its tour- Vienna 365 km 226 miles ist money during the ski season. But For those who want a hint of ad- Munich 167 km 104 miles from late spring to early fall, those venture, towns offer guided hikes Zürich 417 km 259 miles crowds are gone and the infrastruc- from two hours to a full day, often Stuttgart 387 km 240 miles ture remains. The pace is slow, the with van shuttles to and from trail- Transportation: Train travelers should heads. The focus is as much on cul- note that there’s no rail service along the visitor count low and the service ture as exercise. An hour’s hike can Saalach between Saalfelden and Salzburg. more attentive. While it’s a hour’s drive north from Saal- In old dialect, “Leogang” meant put relaxed walkers within a snow- felden to Salzburg (or 90 minutes by bus), ball’s throw of glaciers. Many visitors the rail route requires a 30-kilometer (18- “Path through the Swamp.” The hike through one or more of the re- mile) ride south to Zell am See that then swamp has been reclaimed through gion’s geologically wondrous connects with the Salzburg Sprinter in a the centuries and now a small river, nearly 270-degree arc for the two-hour chasms. Or just walk between villag- journey to Salzburg. Those bound for the “Black Leo,” flows through the es and picnic in an alpine meadow. Munich first have to head west toward valley. Villages and settlements grew But the charm, history and scen- Innsbruck. up along the old path, and Leogang ery are just as accessible to the more Buses connect most of the towns with is more a linear town than a tradi- sedate traveler. Customs live strong frequent service between Saalfelden and tional one built around a central mar- Lofer and frequent train connections ket square and church. in the Saalach Valley, like the autumn between Leogang and Saalfelden. Almabtrieb when farmers drive their Surrounded by sunny and serene Best Bets for Transfers and Excursions: cows from alpine meadows to the Eder Reisen organizes daily excursions to alpine meadows at an altitude of warmth and safety of barns. The en- points in and beyond the region includ- 2,500 feet, it sits against a backdrop tire village turns out with bands and ing Salzburg, Neuschwanstein, Berchtes- of snow-topped mountains. Take the costumes. Even the cows are festively gaden, the Grossglockner High Alpine cable car to the top of Asitz Moun- Road, Werfen Ice Caves, Venice, Vienna dressed; if one carries black it means and Hallein Salt Mines. tain for the glorious view. The Stein- death or injury has befallen one of the Eder Reisen and Taxi, A-5761 Maria Alm, berge (Stone Mountains) and Stein- herd — or the farmer’s family — dur- Dorf 7, tel.: +43/6584/7191, fax: 7191-4, ernes Meer (Stone Sea) dominate the ing the previous season. Or look at email: [email protected], web: northern panorama and over the http://members.magnet.at/ summit of the Asitz, the snowy the baroque parish church in eder.reisen.taxi. Leogang, where iron links form a peaks of the “Dreitausender”— gla- chain around the outer wall. For cen- and forests. Ribbony waterfalls spill cial mountains higher than 3,000 turies, village women have contribut- from sheer cliff walls. meters (9,800 feet) — fill the southern ed the symbolic links to protect their The Saalach first finds civilization view. men from injury, illness and death. at Saalfelden, a delightful town with It’s a three-hour hike back to the Down River medieval ramparts and a market bottom (long but not strenuous), and The headwaters of the Saalach are square — but also traffic and a dis- mountain huts seem to appear when nearly a mile high in the Hinter- creet McDonalds. A best-bet here is most needed to abate thirst and hun- glemm, a narrow valley that dead- Pinzgau Museum in Ritzen Castle, ger. Just watch out for mountain ends in the Kitzbühel Alps near the featuring four floors of cultural, reli- bikes, since Leogang is also site of Salzburg-Tirol border. Powered by gious and archeological exhibits plus BikeWorld, Europe’s largest moun- glacial melt, it flows east toward Zell mining displays. tain bike camp. am See and passes remote farms, East, in the mountains, the village Leogang’s Hütten section is hamlets and villages. of Maria Alm is remote and compact, worth a visit, a small village that Just north of Lake Zell, the sedi- with most conveniences within walk- once housed miners and other moun- ment-rich waters of the Saalach make ing distance. It’s a prototypical Alpine tain workers. The Mining Museum a sharp jag to the north. Here the town — with all the pros and some of gives a hint of life during six centu- valley spreads broadly with farmland the cons. Tourists, attracted by the ries of mining (mostly silver, copper, Gemütlichkeit 3 December 04/January 05 http://www.gemut.com lead and nickel), an experience made Vorderkaserklamm, the rift runs 80 rural villages spread across alpine even richer with a tour to the mine meters (250 feet) deep along a 400- foothills — the Kalkofengut Farmers itself. The tour follows a series of meter (1300-foot) gorge. The Seisen- Museum gives a powerful sense of steep ladders and can be strenuous— bergklamm runs 600 meters (nearly rural life. The thick-walled house was and is definitely not for the claustro- 2000 feet). At some places, the oppos- last renovated in 1681 and its rooms phobic. ing walls are close enough to touch as have changed little through the cen- Natural Wonders misting waterfalls pour into frothy turies. The kitchen still has two open Back on the Saalach, just 10 min- streams. fireplaces and the arched ceiling, utes north of Saalfelden, a collection The “Pilgrim’s Cathedral” caked black with soot, once held of three natural wonders are easily Farther north, St. Martin, a tradi- hooks for meats that smoked slowly explored. The Lamprechtshöhle is tional rural village surrounded by overhead. The museum is filled with th th one of Europe’s largest cave systems. mountains, is well-known for the so- exhibits from the 15 to mid-20 cen- About 700 meters (2,150 feet) are called “Pilgrim’s Cathedral” at Maria turies, including butter churns and accessible to visitors who can climb Kirchental. The mountaintop master- molds, tobacco cutters, kitchen uten- 392 steps along a series of under- piece was designed by Fischer von sils (no forks — just knives and ground waterfalls and streams. The Erlach, Austria’s leading baroque spoons), religious carvings, weaving setting is not entirely controlled, and architect (he built Schönbrunn in machines, spinning wheels and curi- high water still threatens from time to Vienna). Even before its completion osities like castration clamps and time; red lights signal immediate in 1708, pilgrims trekked on foot massive hairballs coughed up by evacuation. As interesting as the nat- from throughout Salzburg and Tirol. favorite cows. Photographs show ural setting are the inscriptions on the Today’s traveler still has to climb (on former residents through the early th walls and ceilings dating as far back foot, bike, car or taxi) a winding hill- 20 century engaging in such old as 1823, as well as crosses marking side road past shrines to the Stations customs as stilt-dancing. Signs are in where people have died trying to of the Cross. While the external and German but not necessary. find the end of the cave (or, according internal architecture are stunning, the Before it reaches a tab of German to legend, treasure). It wasn’t until votive paintings are equally impres- territory, the Saalach relaxes (thanks 1993 that a Polish team found another sive. Each was contributed by a pil- to flood-control dams) before reenter- exit more than a mile high atop the grim as thanks for holy rescue from ing Austria in a forest lakescape near Steinberge. illness or accident and explains the . Just past Salzburg, it Two chasms — both protected story in words and pictures. Paint- joins the Salzach for a mutual flow natural monuments — lie within a ings portray falling trees, floods, ava- into the River, the and, five-minute drive or bus shuttle. Dur- lanches, overturned boats, attacking ultimately, the . soldiers, fires, and deathbeds scenes. ing the last Ice Age, glaciers cut nar- Lodging row clefts through the limestone Just to the north, Lofer is more of walls of the Saalach Valley. In the a patrician market town than farming Krallerhof village, which shows in the ornate A farm for 300 years, the Kraller- Key Websites for the Traveler and formal architecture. The city is hof began its transformation to five- • www.gemut.com Gateway site for travelers to also well-known as a center for out- star hotel in the 1950s. It’s still a half- Germanic Europe, including car rental, rail passes, door sports and home base for rafting hotel bookings, traveler feedback, travel tips and past star short, but guests don’t notice the issues (free access to back issues for subscribers; see companies and adventure outfitters. difference. This resort hotel with all- log-on info on page 2). Here, where the Saalach narrows, its inclusive options has become a desti- • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin database of rapids draw whitewater fans from nation unto itself. Its 100 sumptuous hotels and restaurants plus great interactive trip across Europe. planning tools. guestrooms range from large to huge. • www.travelgearnow.com Guidebooks, maps, travel From Lofer, it’s barely 30 minutes Service is stellar. The hotel staff can accessories, luggage, all at 10% off for subscribers. to Salzburg. Or detour west through take care of everything: tee-time at • www.webflyer.com Informative frequent flyer the Strub Pass and follow the tum- nearby golf courses, excursions, din- forums make this a must for air travelers. bling waters of the Loferbach in what ner reservations in one of the hotel’s • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/en German rail. Train six restaurants and salons (opt for schedules throughout Europe, not just Germany. amounts to a 75-kilometer (46-mile) • www.sbb.ch/index_e.htm Swiss and European rail circuit around the base of the Stein- patio dining). schedules. berge. Most of the route is secondary The €3 million Refugium wellness • www.ski-europe.com Top web resource for skiers or farm road. The pass divides the area and “beauty farm” includes six with much data on Alpine resorts. provinces of Salzburg and Tirol, and • www.myswitzerland.com Website of Switzerland’s different types of sauna, relaxation national tourist authority. the ruins of an old castle and toll grottos, treatment areas and an in- • www.germany-tourism.de Germany’s national station mark the site of battles door swimming pool. An outdoor tourist authority. through the centuries. pool is set into a meadow with views • www.austria.info/us Austria’s national tourist Rural life in Unken to two mountain ranges. Nearby are authority. Downstream from Lofer, in Un- tennis courts. • http://www.hhog.de Website for an alliance of historic German cities. ken — less a town than a collection of In the Vinothek, the sommelier Gemütlichkeit 4 December 04/January 05 http://www.gemut.com can recommend from a list of 250 Daily Rates: Singles €56-82, doubles and passengers, the old inn abuts wines. While the hotel is modern, €104-150, includes dinner, afternoon farmhouses, barns and fields to one many public spaces use “recycled” snack, spa. side and the medieval church and wood — floors, carved beams and Rating: QUALITY 16/20 VALUE 16/20 cemetery on the other. Annie Meindl walls — from old farm houses. The and her family have made a great Salzburger Hof hotel is extremely popular with Aus- effort to keep the rooms as original as trians and Germans but hasn’t yet Rooms are spacious and service is possible while still offering modern been “found” by Americans. familiar and friendly at this modern conveniences. The third floor features yet traditional four-star hotel located Contact: Krallerhof, Rain 6, A-5771 the old dancing room, which today in the heart of Leogang’s recreation Leogang, tel: +49/6583/8246-0, fax: serves as a common parlor to a half- area. All double rooms have balco- 8246-85, email: dozen guest rooms. Number 9 has nies. Those on the “mountain side” th [email protected], web: antique beds, wooden floors, 19 - open directly to Asitz Mountain, www.krallerhof.com. Proprietors: century paintings and a view of a while on the “sunny side” the view is Altenberger Family. chestnut tree backed by mountains. of the slightly-more-distant Stein- € Contact: Gasthaus zur Post, A-5092 Daily Rates: Singles 118-135, dou- berge range. The hotel restaurant € St. Martin bei Lofer, tel: +43/6588/ bles 228-306, includes buffet lunch, attracts guests from throughout the 8502-0, fax: 8502-94, email: five-course dinner, afternoon coffee area, always a good sign. and pastries, activities program, free [email protected], web: or discounted use of sports facilities. Contact: Salzburger Hof, Sonnberg www.gasthof-post.info. Proprietor: Rating: QUALITY 17/20 VALUE 15/20 170, A-5771 Leogang, tel: +43/6583/ Meindl Family. 7310-0, fax: 7311-67, email: € Vitaloase zu den drei Brüdern Daily Rates: Singles 28-32, doubles [email protected], web: €46-56 (higher prices for rooms with The “Vital Oasis at the Three www.salzburgerhof.co.at. Proprietor: separate bedrooms and living rooms). Brothers” is an excellent choice for Hörl Family. Ratings: QUALITY 12/20 VALUE 14/20 travelers who wish to escape to an Daily Rates: Singles €75-89, doubles exotic Alpine country retreat. €130-168. Gasthaus Kirchenwirt Named for the three mountain Rating: QUALITY 16/20 VALUE 15/20 Built in 1326, the Kirchenwirt is Salzburg Province’s oldest inn. It’s peaks looming over the modern Hotel Das Bräu farm-turned-hotel, drei Brüdern fea- fun to look at centuries-old paintings A brewery and hostelry for much tures an “oasis of the senses” with of the town. In one, the Kirchenwirt of its 400-year history, Das Bräu now aroma grottos, alpine hay baths, and looks much as it does today. distinguishes itself as one of the re- saunas that open to a private pond. History lives in the guestrooms gion’s finer historic hotels. Its restau- The Sabbia Med desert chamber has a and public areas, too, with plenty of rants have also gained considerable floor of warmed sand where guests antiques, oil paintings, portraits and recognition. The building has been as can lie as the sun rises and sets over a the requisite antlers. Number 20 is a much restored as renovated and desert scene staged with murals and best-bet, a spacious room with a huge bears a strong sense of history and props. Take a Cleopatra bath in a bathroom and a view to the Stein- rustic charm. copper tub with milk, roses and or- berge. The fourth generation of cur- ange blossoms, or get a wax- or mud- Guestrooms are individually fur- rent owners, Lisi Unterrainer, makes pack. Then enjoy the “fitness platter” nished and feature Austrian antiques. guests feel at home and a private, of three flavorful cutlets coated in Number 326 is a superb, spacious walled-in garden is perfect for quiet natural grains and seeds and served double with marble, hand-painted lounging. wood, a hand-decorated farmer’s atop a fresh garden salad. Contact: Gasthaus Kirchenwirt, closet and small sitting area. As with Rooms were renovated in August Leogang Nr. 3, A-5771 Leogang, tel: most rooms, the view is to farms and and blend modern conveniences with +43/6583/8216, fax: 8459, email: mountains. traditional reminders — such as an [email protected], web: old-style tile oven and windows and Contact: Hotel Das Bräu, Number 28, www.hotelkirchenwirt.com. Propri- doors with Romanesque arches. The A-5090 Lofer, tel: +43/6588/8207, fax: etors: Johannes and Elizabeth Unter- tower suite climbs from the living 82077, email: [email protected], web: rainer. room to an octagonal bedroom with a www.braeu.lofer.at. Proprietors: Daily Rates: Singles €65-72, doubles vaulted wooden ceiling and a 120- Brüggler and Rainer families. €130-142 € € degree mountain view. Daily Rates: Singles 50, doubles 80 Ratings: QUALITY 15/20 VALUE 14/20 Ratings: QUALITY 16/20 VALUE 16/20 Contact: Vitaloase zu den drei Food Brüdern, Reith 11, A-5091 Unken, tel. Gasthof zur Post 06589-4522, fax 06589-45223, email: St. Martin is a tiny alpine village, Café Restaurant Bachmühle [email protected]. web: which puts the Gasthof zur Post both At this restaurant, the only peo- S www.dreibrueder.at. Proprietors: R’ at its heart and fringe. The former ple made to feel more welcome O IT D E Faistauer Family. E IC overnight stop for post coach riders than first-time guests are sec- O CH Gemütlichkeit 5 December 04/January 05 http://www.gemut.com ond-time guests. By then, Maria and plank floors, so that even crowded change rate was better than I could Franz Riedelsperger know their new evenings seem quiet. Service is atten- have gotten in the banks, I only paid friends by name and are apt to sit tive and helpful. The range in price a $2.00 service charge once at a ma- down, swap stories and become part for main courses is €9-15. chine — the others, no charge. of their lives. This, of course, after a Contact: Gasthaus Kirchenwirt, I noticed in your Sept 04 edition splendid meal. Leogang Nr. 3, A-5771 Leogang, tel: that you wanted comments about Maria gets full credit for the kitch- +43/6583/8216, fax: 8459, email: whether your subscribers “craved en, where typical fare includes pota- [email protected], web: comfort and sometimes a little luxu- to-crusted perch in a white wine www.hotelkirchenwirt.com. Propri- ry” — we do! sauce, grilled trout, roast duck with etors: Hannes and Elizabeth Unter- We have discontinued a lot of dumplings and red cabbage, and rainer. magazines over the years, but we braised venison with cranberries. Ratings: QUALITY 15/20 VALUE 15/20 won’t cut our Gemütlichkeit! Instead Before dessert, take a stretch in the Priesteregg of coasting on your past achieve- private garden. This oversize mountain hut hid- ments, I appreciate the fact that you While the indoor area is charm- den in forests and rolling pastures, is continue to put updated things in ing, the view from the balcony de- a favorite of local farmers who enjoy your publication which are so useful mands outdoor dining. its traditional, rustic setting. Order — like first night sleep and eat rec- The Riedelspergers bring equal what they do: the Hutessen (“hut din- ommendations. It sounds like a small commitment and hospitality to their ner”). Servers bring out what looks thing, but can kickoff a trip in such a 16-bed hotel. When an Italian guest like a medieval torture device: a cast- special way! mentioned car trouble, Franz offered iron cone with serrated sides that sits LINDA AND DOC CORNUTT his own for the afternoon. atop a metal basin. The purpose soon DALLAS TX becomes clear. A flame is lit beneath Contact: Café Restaurant Bachmühle, Favors Moderately-Priced the basin which is filled with beef Sonnberg 148, A-5771 Leogang, tel: Generally speaking, I would side broth and julienne vegetables. As the +43/6583/7132, fax: 7472, email: more closely with Mr. Craig Haley’s broth starts to simmer, the servers [email protected], web: requests for reviews of moderately- arrive with platters laden with beef www.bachmuehle.sbg.at. Proprietors: priced accommodations. I’m in the and pork cutlets. The servers then Maria and Franz Riedelsperger. 30-something demographic range demonstrate: hang a cutlet on the Ratings: QUALITY 14/20 VALUE 16/20 and travel to Europe to enjoy the cone and let it sizzle. The finished different culture, rather than to es- Gasthaus Kirchenwirt product is eaten with baked potatoes cape to a different form of comfort Though the Kirchenwirt has and a variety of sauces. The meat is and luxury as requested by Mr. Kurt served guests for almost seven centu- marinated to perfect tenderness and Kreuger in the next letter. I would ries, Elizabeth Unterrainer’s family drips juices into the basin, which contend that Gemütlichkeit does a has run it for a mere 120 years. Today guests are urged to dip into with good job providing reviews that are guests are welcomed cordially with spoons. It’s “all-you-can eat” includ- closer to the “comfortable” end of the an offer of sparkling wine and a bowl ing a bottomless wooden bowl of scale than the “affordable” end. of fresh, wild mushrooms: “We can fresh salad and garlic bread for €15. While I enjoy these reviews and hope prepare them however you want,” Spareribs (cooked) can be substituted to one day sample some nights in she says, and then tempts with dishes for the cutlets. some of these properties, I inevitably such as herbed chicken and roast Contact: Priesteregg, Sonnberg 22, A- resort to other Internet resources to shoulder of veal. At a nearby table, a 5771 Leogang, tel: +43/6583/8255, find affordable lodging. server pours steaming broth over fax: 82554, email: Frankly, my favorite accommoda- bread dumplings dense with mush- [email protected], web: tion in Germany is an Ibis hotel. rooms. www.priesteregg.at. Proprietors: While this chain doesn’t offer distinc- Kirchenwirt is a small inn in a Hubert and Renate Oberlader. tive properties with features and small town, but menu choices are Ratings: QUALITY 13/20 VALUE 14/20 luxuries unique to any one city, I appealing and well-prepared. Appe- believe them to be an excellent value. tizers include red caviar mousse, READERS’ FORUM Every one I’ve stayed in (at least 17 goose liver parfait with truffle honey Continued from page 1 so far) has great proximity to train and port-wine pear, and regional take an ATM Plus card instead, we stations, very clean rooms, great Eu- cheeses might be served with chut- decided to get one (we’re probably in ropean-style breakfasts, excellent ney. Salmon is tossed with fresh pas- the small minority of folks in the US coffee with a Schluck in the bar at ta in saffron oil, and mountain lamb who didn’t have one!) I made sure night, perfectly firm mattresses, lots roulade comes with garlic polenta — that the ATM card had the Plus logo of hot water, and very courteous a perfect complement of flavors. on it and what a handy thing it was! staff. On the downside, the rooms are It worked perfectly in small and large Dining is spread over several usually small and the furniture is towns alike — no problem! The ex- rooms, each with wood paneling and “Ikea-modern,” but that’s a trait Gemütlichkeit 6 December 04/January 05 http://www.gemut.com shared with many European hotels grammed for English). Avoiding Airport Rental Tax with rates less than 150 euros/night. Using the Gasthof und Pension You’ve mentioned in the last issue I’ve also had good experiences with Hofmann, in the small town of Alten- or two the savings of renting a car at several InterCity hotels. stein (Gemütlichkeit, March 2001) as a a location other than the airport or Here are some other non-chain base, we explored Franconia, includ- train station - perhaps a suggestion or hotels we have also enjoyed that are ing the cities of Bamberg and Coburg. two about a good location (assuming in the affordable category: Hotel Bamberg is a well-preserved medi- you’ve got luggage, etc.) near Frank- Schaeper-Siedenburg in Bremen, eval city spreading across seven hills. furt/Munich airports where this Inselresidenz Strandburg on Juist, Known for its smoky Rauchbier, Bam- might be accomplished. Gasthof Auerhahn in Salzburg, Ho- berg’s half-timbered houses and its KURT VINCENT tel Domschatz in Quedlinburg, Hotel location along the Regnitz River NASSAU, NY Kapelle in Innsbruck, Hotel Vier make it an interesting city to walk. Still Number One Jahreszeiten in Bad Reichenhall, and When we returned to the Gasthof we The Black Forest is great but we Panoramahotel Lilienstein across sat on our little balcony and watched still prefer Bavaria as our number one from Königstein. the sun set, after which we enjoyed a area of Germany. We used Staufen as good German meal prepared to order I do pay close attention to your our base to tour the BF and stayed at by the owner, Jarek Trejgis. Herr Tre- restaurant reviews, as I’m always the Hotel Kreuz-Post (Hauptstrasse jgis is an accomplished chef who looking for a handy lunch and am 65, tel. +49/07633/ 95320, fax 953232, takes great pride in the meals he pre- more willing to splurge on an enjoy- web www.kreuz-post-staufen.de) pares. He and his wife Wiola are gra- able dinner. Your reviews of which had very nice rooms and excel- cious hosts. In Rödental we passed Thüringerhof in Leipzig were right lent food but was really more of a up the Hummel factory tour and on, and we have enjoyed fine meals restaurant with rooms than a hotel. instead visited the Engel-Puppen there on two different occasions now. After breakfast on the day the restau- factory down the road, on the “Ger- Several of your Nürnberg recommen- rant was closed, there wasn’t a staff man Toy Street”, and watched the dations had great food, but were member to be found for the rest of handwork that goes into making crowded. Restaurants worthy of the day. Another downside: there is German dolls. your review might include: Hotel no place one can just sit and have a Kapelle in Innsbruck, Kleiner Our last two days were spent in glass of beer or wine. The restaurant Olymp in Bremen, Jan Paukert in Volkach, a charming down in the is very formal and the weather was Prague, Koebes on Juist, Thomas Franconian wine area, where we too cool to sit at one of the outside Brauhaus in Leipzig (next to the Tho- stayed at Zur Schwane (Hauptstrasse tables. Stayed at the Villa Hugel in maskirche), Steigl pub in Salzburg, 12, Volkach am Main, web Trier for two days, a true gemütlich- Aussichtsreich in Stuttgart (this is www.schwane.de), a Romantik hotel keit experience. Very good, although just 10 minutes walk from where I’m that knows how to cater to its guests. modern, accommodations and very temporarily living, so I enjoy their The warm hospitality of hotel manag- friendly staff. It is located in a resi- hospitality frequently!), Schoendorf er Andreas Poth and staff made our dential district, just a 5-minute walk Brauhaus in Böblingen, Henne and/ visit a most pleasant one. Our room from the Roman baths. My husband or Kleine Markthalle in Kreuzberg/ — €90 for a double — was clean and enjoyed the complimentary sauna Berlin, and Tolle Knolle in Konstanz. comfortable. Zur Schwane operates a and pool. family winery (35% of the wines are Thanks for the opportunity to add Our last night was at the Hotel sold on the premises) and Herr Poth feedback. I always look forward to Westend in Frankfurt, an interesting gave us an interesting tour of the every issue with bated breath, and I small hotel reminiscent of a villa, one candle-lit wine cellar. The dining save every issue as a great reference block from the skyscrapers. It was room, with its kachel ofen, dark oak for our next trip-planning efforts! OK for a last night, full of beautiful ceiling and painted wall panels, DAVID THAEMERT antiques and with a nice breakfast looked more like something you VIA EMAIL including eggs to order, but the car- would expect to find in Austria or pet in our room was literally thread- GPS Makes a Difference Switzerland. The dinner menu in- bare and the wall covering needed to We’ve just returned from a week cluded local specialities which were be updated. In good weather an invit- in Germany using several recommen- tastefully prepared and served with ing rear garden is used for breakfast, dations from the Gemütlichkeit news- great attention. The breakfast buffet but we’re still searching for the “per- letter. For the first time we had “navi- had a bountiful display of fresh fect” last night hotel. Any sugges- gation” or GPS, in our rental car, and bread, rolls, home made sausage and tions? what a difference it made. No more cheeses, yogurt, muesli and fruit and VIRGINIA KIEHN searching for signs along the road or several types of eggs. About a two- VIA EMAIL studying several maps to find our hour drive from Frankfurt, we hope way. We simply punched in the town to return to Zur Schwane. Berlin Hotel or street address and followed the INGRID DETWEILER I recently spent a week in Berlin. directions (the system can be pro- CONCORD, MA In choosing a hotel, I looked for loca- Gemütlichkeit 7 December 04/January 05 http://www.gemut.com tion, price, security, and of course, Gemüt Has it Right, Except... tire. Be sure, too, to check for damage gemütlichkeit. I found Hotel Gen- Re: Your query to provide more before leaving the rental station. If darm, Charlottenstrasse 61, from your higher end or lower end hotel re- any is found, have it noted on the hotel database. My criteria were met views. This subscriber feels you’ve rental contract. Otherwise you could in full measure at Hotel Gendarm. I’d got just about the right mix, as it now be held responsible. It’s a good idea, like to return to Berlin someday, and stands. However, an occasional re- too, to make sure that everything on will stay again at this hotel. view of a posh watering hole would your car is in working order: lights, ROBERTS HORNER not be unwelcome. radio, turn signals, emergency brake, ST. PAUL, MN Re: Your announcement to cut to even the clutch. Three days into a 10 issues rental, one Gemütlichkeit customer Rothenburg Advice lost the clutch on his Avis midsize car Last spring we spent four nights It seems to me that travelers who in the U.K. In addition to the inconve- at the Romantik Hotel Markusturm can pay the freight for an Atlantic nience, Avis took the position the hop, plus all the attendant costs while in Rothenburg. It was a delight. The clutch was o.k. at the start of the rent- owners, Stephen and Lilo Berger abroad can easily take a hit for the al but the customer wore it out could not have been more hospitable. price increase that would allow you through improper use. This is a man to continue publishing 11 issues. Why Though we had to climb stairs to our for whom our travel service has second floor room, the accommoda- not put it to a vote? I’ll wager that the booked 27 cars — all standard trans- tions were in a suite and the parking response will overwhelmingly favor mission — in Europe since 1996, was continuing the 11 issues. space was free. Good breakfast buf- born and raised in Germany, and fets and dinners whipped up by the On another matter, I must tell you never drove an automatic transmis- owner-chef Stephen added to the that I find it irritating and annoying sion vehicle until he emigrated to the wonderful atmosphere of the hotel that you no longer provide equiva- U.S. as an adult. that has been owned by his family for lent dollar amounts in your evalua- • Heed the fine print on your over 100 years. tion of hotels and restaurants. (Yes, voucher or reservation. Every vouch- I’m aware of the exchange rates that The city hasn’t changed much er issued by Gemütlichkeit’s travel since I visited it in 1955 while sta- appear at the bottom of the face page, department carries this warning: tioned near Munich in the U.S. Army. but I want those dollar amounts pro- “Client is advised to return the vehi- vided within the text.) There is much to see and do in and cle with a full tank of gas and to re- around this medieval gem and lucki- It seems to me that this should be tain copies of gas receipts.” If the ly there weren’t many tourists while a basic service that you owe your rental company has to fill your tank we were there. Here a few musts: subscribers. Is laziness creeping in?? the price will be astronomical. • Walk the fortress walls around BILL POLCARI Our best single piece of advice is the city MEDFORD, MA to book through a company that of- • Take the Night Watchman Tour (Ed. Note: The reason we no longer fers a 24/7 toll-free-from-Europe (an hour and a half) which starts ev- show prices in both local currency and “safety-net” help-line. Gemütlichkeit/ ery night in the Hauptplatz at 8pm U.S. dollars is that our newsletters are Auto Europe offers such a service and it is the answered prayer of the • Have dinner at the “Hole“ referenced for several years beyond their € traveler in trouble. Supposing the (“Hell” in English), the oldest restau- publication date. A 90 hotel room was agent at the counter tells you he rant in town — small with great food $76 in July of 2001; today it is $117. Such doesn’t have the midsize car with and atmosphere a huge difference is misleading — espe- cially to less sophisticated travelers. automatic transmission specified on • Drive one hour north to the city your reservation? Show him the toll- With regard to the number of issues of Würzburg to see the Schloss and free number and ask to be connected published per year; since 9/11 a variety of Residenz to the help-line. As the number one factors have combined to insure that soon • Visit Kathe Wohlfahrt’s Christ- booker of rental cars in Europe (more enough we will be forced to raise the sub- mas village shops which have decora- than Hertz or Avis), Auto Europe has scription price. The move to 10 issues tions and unique treasures you won’t powerful leverage with its principal simply delayed the inevitable.) believe. suppliers: Avis, Europcar, Sixt, Hertz While paying the bill, the room DEAR SUBSCRIBER and National, and the 24/7 help-line rate was lower than originally quot- Continued from page 2 folks know where to find supervisors and vice presidents. As far as we are ed, even with a suite. Last but not chkeit/Auto Europe booking while in aware, this service is unique to Auto least, the girls who waited on us, Europe — add days, get a different Europe — and to Gemütlichkeit read- manned the front desk, carried our car, etc. — do not deal directly with the ers who have access to specially dis- luggage and were generally very car rental company. Instead, use the counted Auto Europe rates. Those helpful, were fabulous. toll-free-from-Europe phone number who book directly with Hertz, Avis, on your voucher. It’s staffed 24/7. BILL WOOD et al, will just have to fight their own VIA EMAIL • Make sure your car has a spare rental car counter battles. —RHB Gemütlichkeit 8 December 04/January 05