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Conceptualising Luxury Fashion in China: a Postmodern Interpretation

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Conceptualising Luxury Fashion in China: a Postmodern Interpretation Conceptualising Luxury Fashion in China: A Postmodern Interpretation A thesis submitted to the University of Manchester for the degree of Master of Philosophy in the Faculty of Science and Engineering 2019 Tiantian Ye School of Materials 1 / 167 Chapter One: Introduction ............................................................................................................ 8 1.1 Research context ......................................................................................................... 8 1.1.1 Market context ....................................................................................................... 8 1.1.2 Philosophical context ........................................................................................... 10 1.2 Research gap .............................................................................................................. 12 1.3 Research aim ............................................................................................................. 12 1.4 Research objectives ................................................................................................... 12 Chapter Two: Literature review.................................................................................................. 12 2.1 The rationale for a literature review ............................................................................. 13 2.2 Conceptualising luxury fashion ..................................................................................... 14 2.2.1 The evolutionary manifesto of Western luxury ................................................ 14 2.2.2 A Chinese perspective of conceptualising luxury ............................................. 15 2.2.3 Luxury fashion ..................................................................................................... 17 2.2.4 The advent of luxury’s accessibility— luxury’s ‘democratisation’ ................. 20 2.2.5 Contextualising luxury fashion consumption in China .................................... 23 2.3 Chinese consumers changing value perceptions of luxury fashion ............................ 26 2.3.1 Approaching the value formation of luxury fashion ........................................ 26 2.3.2 Financial value perception .................................................................................. 28 2.3.3 Conspicuous value perception ............................................................................ 30 2.3.4 Functional value perception ............................................................................... 33 2.3.5 Hedonistic value perception................................................................................ 36 2.4 Literature review summary ........................................................................................... 39 Chapter Three: Research Methodology ...................................................................................... 41 3.1 Research philosophy ....................................................................................................... 41 3.1.1 Ontological assumptions ..................................................................................... 41 3.1.2 Epistemological assumptions .............................................................................. 44 3.1.3 Methodological assumptions............................................................................... 45 3.2 Research design ............................................................................................................... 48 3.2.1 Inductive research ............................................................................................... 48 2 / 167 3.2.2 The qualitative approach .................................................................................... 49 3.2.3 Sampling criteria ................................................................................................. 51 3.2.4 Individual interviews ........................................................................................... 54 3.3 Quality and evaluation in interpretivist research ........................................................ 58 3.3.1 Diverse validity criteria in different research paradigm ................................. 58 3.3.2 Validity in interpretivist research ...................................................................... 59 3.3.3 Towards a cross-paradigm trustworthiness ...................................................... 61 3.4 Data analysis ................................................................................................................... 63 3.5 Research Ethics ............................................................................................................... 64 3.6 Summary ......................................................................................................................... 66 Chapter Four: Findings and Discussion ..................................................................................... 67 4.1 Thematic templates ......................................................................................................... 67 4.2 Participants’ experiences of luxury fashion consumption ........................................... 69 4.3 Research Findings ........................................................................................................... 74 4.3.1 Financial value ..................................................................................................... 74 4.3.2 Functional Value.................................................................................................. 77 4.3.3 Hedonistic value ................................................................................................... 80 4.3.4 Conspicuous value ............................................................................................... 82 4.3.5 A symbol of the West ........................................................................................... 89 4.3.6 Luxury fashion as art .......................................................................................... 91 4.4 Discussions and reflections ............................................................................................. 94 4.4.1 The double-edged effects of luxury’s democratisation in China ..................... 94 4.4.2 The reviving Chinese traditional luxury value ................................................. 96 4.4.3 Framework of luxury fashion consumer value ............................................... 101 4.5 Theoretical contributions ............................................................................................. 103 4.6 Managerial contributions ..................................................................................... 105 4.7 Limitations and further research suggestions ..................................................... 106 References ............................................................................................................................ 107 Appendix .............................................................................................................................. 117 3 / 167 Interview Transcripts .................................................................................................. 117 4 / 167 ABSTRACT The overall purpose of this research is to take a new perspective to understand how contemporary Chinese consumers conceptualise luxury fashion consumption, as an imported phenomenon, from their own experiences. The research aims to develop a new framework to guide studies into consumer value in cross-cultural contexts. By adopting the qualitative interpretivist method, this study utilised Bevan’s (2014) phenomenological interview technique to conduct private interviews with ten Chinese consumers who were willing to share their personal experiences of luxury consumption and their perceptions of the importance of luxury fashion. The results of the research reveal that Chinese consumers not only characterise luxury four- dimensionally (Shukla and Purani, 2012; Shukla et al., 2015)—in financial, hedonistic, conspicuity and functionality terms—but also imbue luxury fashion with a unique contextual value that impacts the socio-cultural realm of their worlds. Chinese luxury consumers see luxury fashion as a ‘symbol of the West’ and the ‘art of life’ that they should aspire to. This research has filled the knowledge gap by reviewing the evolution and consequences of the spread of luxury fashion beyond the Chinese elite and into the middle-class market. This study indicates that the growing accessibility of luxury fashion has allowed less affluent consumers to partake of the luxury goods boom, but has caused elite consumers a degree of disorientation and alienation. Moreover, this research has expanded the field of behavioural studies on postmodernist thinking (e.g., Goulding, 2003; Firat and Venkatesh, 1995), and produced a framework that includes an instrumental value and aspirational value realm as an anatomy of the fragmented consumer experience. 5 / 167 DECLARATION what portion of the work referred to in the thesis has been submitted in support of an application for another degree or qualification of this or any other university or other institute of learning. This should include reference to joint authorship of published materials which might have been included in a thesis submitted by another student to this university or any other university or other institute of learning. COPYRIGHT
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