SOUTHEASTERN coast, day trips to tiered waterfalls offercoast, daytripstotiered waterfalls shadyrespite fromthebuzzoftownsandtraffic. are onoffer,buri, white-water raftingandmountainbiking while inthesmallerparksnear enroutebackpackers toMuKo ChangandCambodia toeaseoffthetravellers’ accelerator. kok escapees. TratProvince, withitsriverside ambienceandexcellentbudgetlodgings, invites water toKoSiChang,aquietislandwithhillsidetemples often overlooked Bang- byweekend pier buildingsscattered pier-front alongthecoast.SiRacha’s looksacrossthecargo ship–studded adifferentthey make amusements. oftrade:weekdayanxietiesforweekend kind translates to‘Vast youcanwatch–orjoinBangkoklocalsas JewelIsle’,andon weekends are KoSamet’saquamarinewaters andwhite beaches,whichonceearneditanamethat Marine Park, where andare islandsrisefromwaters justasclear. thecolourofblueskies aphrodisiac. At theotherendofregion, ingeographyandintensity, isMuKoChangNational and heelshigh.It’sreinventing itselfasafamilyplace,butPattaya still sweatsabuzzylate-night laid-back hippies,theregion represents ofThailand themanyattractions –intheirextremes. There’s nothingmoderate aboutsoutheastern Thailand. Catering toholidayinghedonistsand Thailand Southeastern 228 © LonelyPlanetPublications „ Finally, several nationalparksroundouttheofferings. area aroundPrachin- Inthenorthern More subduedbutnolessattractive are theregion’s subtlehintsofOldSiam:teak housesand ofjewelsluresThe dealerstoChanthaburi’s gemmarkets. razzle-dazzle Equallyalluring And thenthere’s everything inbetween. First there’s , are atestosterone-fuelled, heavy-breathing short town,where resort skirts

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS

BEST TIMETOVISIT: NOVEMBER–MAY Embarking onasweatyjungletrek (andcooling Embarking Transitioningfromwildtomildin Swinging inahammockwhilecontemplating Navigating thefootpathsfrombeachto Taking inthetemples andshrinesof another lazybeachdayonmellow coast of and bungalowtoalongthe eastern ( p232 ) fromthebackofasouped-uptúk-túk ( p269) waterfall swim)onmountainous waterfall amusement-park, family-oriented daylife with itscabaret- andclub-fillednightlife andits Ko Samet (p245) Ko Chang Pattaya Ko Mak Ko SiChang (p234), (p261)

„ POPULATION: 3.6 MILLION Ko SiChang Pattaya Ko Samet Ko Chang Ko Mak SOUTHEASTERN THAILAND ,

) , a , a a 229 Ko Loi Health noon- nám prík daylight) h h (

0 3832 4111; Th , where an evening , where % ( 0 3831 1037; 35 Th Jermjompol; % (

Night Square (cnr Th Surasak 1 & Th Jermjompol) 0 3831 1800; Soi 10; r 300-450B; (94 Th Nakorn 1; (spicy sauce), a perfect comple- (spicy sauce), a perfect % ( This wooden hotel sits above the sits above This wooden hotel

(Th blocks north Jermjompol) A few of the , where you can spot – or join – fitness- , where Siriwatana Hotel Si Racha is home to the famous Samchai Thai-Chinese Buddhist temple e rah·chah e rah·chah ĕ Information Information Jermjompol, Soi 8) Regarded as Si Racha’s best. Jermjompol, Soi 8) Regarded as Si Racha’s the basic rooms are cheap. are the basic rooms has a similar ambience, though The Samchai with floors a port: cement a bit like it feels complex. yellow lines wind through the large get- were the rooms of a few When we visited and paint (both ting a facelift with new floors Krung Thai Bank. Krung seen-it-all-before to size, from tiny hatchlings Ko Loi jetty is the Just south of seniors. Park a meal. Just conscious individuals walking off a little inland is sets but it’s a up – it’s not too exciting market your bearings. good landmark to get Sleeping places to stay basic) The most authentic (read: A couple on the piers. the wooden hotels are inland. located are hotels better of sea – in fact, you can look straight through the squat toilet’s hole to the ocean. It’s simple, but Coffee Terrace Coffee Terrace Krung Thai Bank Post office Sriracha Hospital Sights lim- Si Racha’sWorking-class attractions are the water- but the shambling ambience of ited, is worth a second glance, and front piers to the mainland a small rocky island connected Si Racha’s by a long jetty at the northern end of you’ll find Here is fun to explore. waterfront, a food stalls, and atmosphere, festival low-key every giant ponds with turtles of a couple of tory, while the glitter and glam of sushi restau- sushi and glam of the glitter tory, while highlight bars Japanese the karaoke rants and Down the present. of immigrants and Korean to see just as likely on the seafront fish- you’re twilight their nets in a tropical ermen mending aerobicising hundreds of a crowd as you are Though unit. ships as one colour-coordinated at Si Racha’swaiting to dock stud modern port far enough away not they’re the near horizon, gone by. days illusion of to spoil the s ment to the town’s excellent seafood. ment to the town’s excellent 11pm) Coffee (45B) and internet (25B per hour). (45B) and internet (25B 11pm) Coffee s/d 160/200B) PROVINCE •• Si Racha

Khao Chamao/Khao Wong ( p244 ), Khao p244 Khao Chamao/Khao Wong (

If you are coming from northeast Thailand, coming from northeast If you are During the wet season,During the Samet stays Ko Climate Climate piers and pontoons testifies to its Old Siam his- and pontoons testifies piers pop 141,400 roots fishing-village of jumble Si Racha is a rickety of and immigrant implants. A labyrinth SI RACHA SI RACHA Liuik(k CHONBURI PROVINCE minivan services between all main attractions. main islands the region’s run to Hourly ferries throughout the year, although services to the archipelago the Ko Chang outlying islands of wet season. during the reduced are Getting around southeastern Thailand is Getting Thailand is around southeastern straightforward, with good bus links and steady regular air-con bus services to air-con regular travel and . from Khorat and Pattaya Getting Around and from to Trat. A once-daily train with Pattaya. service links Bangkok capital with all major towns, and there are are towns, and there capital with all major and to Pattaya, flights from ward progression from Bangkok to Hat Lek on from Bangkok to Hat ward progression buses link the Air-con the Cambodian border. For the majority of travellers, a trip into, and travellers, of For the majority Thailand is an east- then through, southeastern coastal buzz. Getting There & Away ( p255 ) National Parks hold fewer surprises, hold fewer ) National Parks p255 ( from the a break worth a visit for but are Khitchakut ( p255 ) and Nam Tok Phlio Phlio ) and Nam Tok p255 Khitchakut ( are the region’s biggest drawcards after Pattaya. Pattaya. drawcards after biggest the region’s are in dense, unspoilt forest, Ko Chang is covered is developingand while the island’s coastline and untouched. is still rugged fast, the interior Ya/Mu Ko Samet National Park and Mu Ko Park Ko Samet National Ya/Mu and respectively) Park, Chang National Marine National Parks National Parks ) and Ko Chang p245 Ko Samet ( The islands of parks (Khao) fall within national Laem p258 ( unusually dry and is the region’s most ‘mon- and is the region’s unusually dry island. proof’ soon January to May. A hot wet season follows from to May. January to October. June season, monsoonal climate: a relatively cool season, a relatively monsoonal climate: and December is dry season in November from a hot dry seasonfollowed by stretching Southeastern Thailand experiences a three- experiences Thailand Southeastern Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book