History

INTRODUCTION

From since the dawn of civilization, mankind has always had trouble with hair. Hair just constantly grows, and regular trimming and styling often wasn't only a way of making yourself look more attractive, it was also done to reflect personalities, religion or even social status, as even as far back as Neanderthal Man, there were occasions where the males put bones, feathers and other items in their hair to impress females and also to strike fear in rival groups.

Some of the first references to hair care appear as early as 4000 B.C., when Egyptians crafted combs out of dried fish bones. In 2000 B.C., Egyptians mixed water and citrus juice to make , and they applied animal fats and plant oils to their hair for conditioning. In 1800 B.C., Babylonian men powdered their hair with gold dust, and in 1500 B.C., Assyrian slaves curled the hair of kings and other nobles with heated iron bars. In 500 B.C., hair styling was born in western Africa, where sticks and clay were used as early versions of curlers and setting gel. Accessories and color were introduced in 35 B.C., when Cleopatra wore jewel-studded ivory pins in her hair and Roman prostitutes were forced to dye their hair blond.

In the first century A.D. hair color became more prominent. Women attended Roman feasts showing off their dark, shiny tresses, thanks to dyes, which were created from boiled walnuts and leeks. Saxon men charged on the battlefield toward their enemies with their hair blazing in threatening hues of blue, green, and orange, in the year 100. In Rome, circa 200, sculptors began to attach marble wigs to their artwork to update them in accordance with the of the times. And in the fourth century, there was an emphatic show of hairnets and scarves. Fast forward a millennium: If you think that permanent solution now smells awful, empathize with European women in the 1300's who conditioned their hair with dead lizards boiled in olive oil. And that's not all they had to endure; they also shaved their hairlines to show off high foreheads and piled hair high on their heads to make their necks look longer.

Other examples of hair being used for social status is in the Gallic/Roman period, whereby noble Gallic men were required to grow their hair long to show their nobility. Upon being conquered by the Roman's, Julius Caesar ordered that any noble Gaul would have their head shaved bald, a humiliation for the Gauls.

In terms of religion, hair can show a lot. Monks for example shave their head in a number of religions, whereas early Muslim men would shave their head with the exception of a single long lock, which was believed to be used to pull them up to heaven after they die. Political leanings were also shown - as the long haired Royalist Cavaliers battled the cropped hair of the Parliamentarian Roundheads in English Civil War in the 1600's. Hair - or rather wigs - can also be used to show job roles, such as Japanese geisha's have large black wigs, and the rolled gray wig of a British barrister. Also, it can be cut or styled to show the mood of the person. Egyptians used to grow their hair when they were mourning, Hindu widows used to shave it all off. Now religion, political persuasion or social status is less likely to have an effect on your hair. The general increase of disposable income, along with informality & individualism, has seen a rise in people changing their , to suit their needs and tastes at the time. Modern hairdressing as it relates to fashion today began in the 1910¶s and is a constantly evolving expression that is based on multiple social influences from the economy to current events, from lifestyle to locale, from art to fashion, not to mention hundreds of years of study and refinement of form and silhouette combined with a naturally short attention span related to the ever increasing speed at which technology grows.

A Brief History of Hairdressing:

Studies reveal that haircutting and hairstyling were practiced in some form as early as the glacial age. They used simple but effective implements like sharpened flints, oyster shells, or bone. Animal sinew of hide was even used to tie hair back, or as an adornment.

The Egyptians were the first to cultivate beauty in an extravagant fashion, and became well-versed in the art of makeup and hairdressing. The ancient Egyptians also were the first to use cosmetics as part of their personal beautification habits, and in religious ceremonies when preparing the deceased for burial. Ancient records show that coloring matter was made from berries, the bark of trees, minerals, insects, nuts, herbs, leaves and other materials that were used on the skin, hair, and nails. Even though eye paint was the most popular of all cosmetics, henna (a dye extracted from the leaves of an ornamental shrub) was used to impart a reddish tint to the hair that is still used to this day. The first recorded use of henna as a coloring agent was in 1500 B.C. Excavations from Egyptian tombs also have revealed combs, brushes, mirrors, and made of tempered copper and bronze.

Hairdressing was an art for the Egyptians who liked to wear elaborate hairdos and cosmetics, as well as wigs. Egyptian and Roman women were known to apply a mixture of soil and water to their hair. They then wrapped their hair on wooden made rollers to bake in the sun, creating a temporary wave. The first evidence of nail care recorded in history was prior to 3,000 B.C. in Egypt and China. Ancient Egyptian men and women of high social rank stained their nails with red-orange henna. The color of a person's nail was a sign of rank. Kings and queens wore deep red, while people of lower society wore only pale colors. Beauty and grooming took on great symbolic significance in many cultures. Military commanders in Egypt, Babylon, and early Rome would spend many hours before a battle, having their hair curled, and their nails painted the same shade as their lips. During the golden Age of Greece (500B.C), hairstyling became a highly developed art. Hairstyling services were introduced in Rome around 300 B.C. Women used hair color to indicate their class in society. Noblewomen tinted their hair red, middle class women colored their hair blonde and poor women colored it black. Hairstyling and barbering continued to grow in importance, and eventually became identified with the world of medicine. During the medieval times, cosmetology and medicine were taught as combined subjects in English universities. When Pope Alexander III forbade the clergy to shed blood, were enlisted to assist monks and priests during surgery. They regularly performed bloodletting and minor surgery, administered herbs, and later pulled teeth. In fact, for centuries, dentistry was performed only by barbers for more than a thousand years, they were known as -surgeons. The Renaissance was a time where emphasis was placed on physical appearance. The hair was done carefully with ornaments, and headdresses were worn. Around this time, in 1450, a law was enacted that separated the practices of barbering and surgery. They could no longer perform surgery, and surgeons were forbidden to act as barbers.

Finally, an entrepreneur capitalized on hair's phenomenal importance, paving the way for the Vidal Sassoons and Bumble and Bumbles of our times. In 1635, the very first ladies' hair salon, appropriately named Champagne, opened in Paris, France. Extra- firm-hold would have been an essential commodity in the 18th century, when stiff pompadours-masses of hair combed high, frizzed above the forehead, and held in place with paste and glue-were the rage. The entire period marked the origins of hairdressing as a true art form. constructed monuments out of hair as fashion statements, and even further, as statements about current events and deep emotions. The masterpieces were so elaborate that ladies reportedly had to crouch on their knees to fit the huge 'dos into their carriages as they traveled. Hundreds of years before the punk rock era as we know it, hair was powdered in blue, violet, white, pink, and yellow pastels. Eventually, the rigidity gave way to a historic form of "bed head." These elegantly neglected styles featured disarrayed locks whimsically arranged and loosely tied, with overflows of curls in chocolate brown hues. Hair was also crimped, tousled, and caught up in chignons, with locks framing the face, much like today's special-occasion up-do. Women also wore their hair knotted low in heavy chignons and accented with flowers. Late in the century, the French Revolution called for shorter, less elaborate styles. During the early 19th century, hats, hoods, and headdresses became popular in France. Plain and plaited hair made in England in the 1850s.

The 19th century, an era by research and innovation, saw many changes in the field of hair care. In 1875, a Frenchman named Marcel Grateau developed the technique of using irons for waving and curling the hair. This developed into the art of thermal waving, still known today as Marcel waving. In 1890, the first hairdressing academy was opened in Chicago by Brisbois and Federmeyer. And finally, in the 20th century, hairstyling began to follow trends, and soon became available to all classes of people who could choose their styles based on their needs and desires. ______20th Century/ The birth of modern fashion

A French hairstylist invented the first hair dryer in 1890. Alexandre F. Godefroy's blow dryer consisted of a bonnet that attached to the chimney pipe of a gas stove. This was the first hood dryer ever made.)

Hand held blow dryers were introduced in 1920. They resembled a vacuum cleaner, and some vacuum cleaners had attachments for drying the hair. The blow dryer was manufactured by the Hamilton Beach Company and the Universal Motor Company.

By the 1930's gas powered blow dryers had been invented. They did not last long because they were too harsh on the hair. The standard hood dryer was also invented which remains the staple hair dryer in beauty salons. Original hand held dryers were extremely heavy and were made from chrome plated steel.

By the mid 1950's, newer models had silent running motors which were compact and housed inside of the fan. This allowed the blow dryer to be less noisy and bulky. The blow dryers had elegant designs and were brightly colored. The portable case hair dryer was also invented and could be worn like a handbag over the shoulder.

Hairstyles underwent rapid changes in the 20th century. Styles of the times reflected what was happening socially and were most often worn by icons of popular culture, which epitomized our ideals and our dreams. A new look, created by Polish-born, Paris- based Monsieur Antoine, also known as Antoine of Paris, showcased hair parted in the middle and swept back in smooth bands over the ears. In 1907 Josephine Baker's sleek style and the Marcel wave cascaded over the United States and Europe. The first chemical hair color formula was also born in 1907²named Aureole by its originator, Eugene Schueller, and then later rechristened L'Oreal. Charles Nestle invented the first permanent-wave machine in 1905. Madame CJ. Walker began selling hair care products for African-Americans in 1906, which later became a multimillion- dollar business.

By 1910, American nurses in Europe had fed a copycat trend back home. They had cut their hair short to protect themselves from flea infestation and women in America began to do the same for fashion. Edith Wharton sported a loose, wavy, poufy feminine look that also turned heads. In 1917, the double-process blonding technique was invented, giving blondes worldwide more fun than ever! By 1925, there were already 25,000 beauty parlors in the United States.

The first global fad in haircutting, the shingle (an early version of the bob) was created in 1914 (debatably between 1909 and 1915) Antoine de Paris, who was hairstylist to several of Europe's most renowned actresses. Monsieur Antoine designed the shingle hairstyle especially for Irene Castle (1893±1969), a trendsetting American ballroom dancing star who was performing in Paris, France. The style quickly caught on in Europe, and by 1927 Monsieur Antoine opened an elegant hair salon in New York City and formally introduced the shingle cut, or shingle bob, to wealthy American women. At the same time the shingle cut also was introduced to millions of movie fans when it was worn by film star Louise Brooks (1906±1985). After admiring the onscreen hairdo of Brooks, thousands of young women asked their hairdressers to give them shingle cuts as a representation of their new found emancipation. The shingle hairstyle remained stylish into the early 1930s, and then its popularity gave way to looser, more traditionally feminine mid-length hairdos.

Shedding their corsets and entering the work force. The 1930s and 1940S found wartime citizens ogling the glamorous life. They were inspired by stars of the silver screen such as Rita Hayworth, Lana Turner, and Veronica Lake. In 1931, Jean Harlow starred in Platinum Blonde and a hair color craze soon swept the nation and beyond. Also in the 1930S, child star Shirley Temple's tight curls had grown women pinning their hair into ringlets. During the war, when the feminine ideal was largely expressed through movies and film magazines, women copied Hollywood hairdos. In the 1940s, Rita Hayworth made side-parted finger waves the sexiest style of her time, and Veronica Lake's cascading blond hair redefined glamour.

By the 1950s, highlighting was the driving trend and so was Lucille Ball's flaming mane. Doris Day's helmet-hair inspired her fans, and Audrey Hepburn's role in Roman Holiday mobilized the modern . Brigitte Bardot's "sauerkraut", a structured yet wavy 'do, was the one to emulate. Advertising campaigns reassured women that it was acceptable to color their hair. Housewives had a staid role in our 1950s and '60s society, and their hairstyles revealed that fact. In the '5os, the homemaker's hairdo was conservative, and in the '6os, women wore stiff Dynel wigs and toyed with the idea of wearing falls for Supermodel-inspired styles. Toward the end of the era, beehives and became popular with the availability of and the trend toward a more carefree lifestyle.

Present-day conditioner was created in the 1950s, when chemists discovered that ingredients used in fabric softeners could also soften hair. The aerosol spray can was invented in 1956, making hair spray possible²and, therefore, probable.

The freedom of the 1960s was expressed even in popular hairstyles. People let their hair down and there was a distinct movement toward trading gender norms in hairstyles. British rock sensations the Beatles wore their hair long, a style generally out of fashion since the 19th century. Female model Twiggy wore hers short and boyish in a no-fuss fashion that abruptly ended the harsher '50s styles. In 1963, Vidal Sassoon started issuing easy, wash-and-dry looks. Nearing the end of the decade, hair was also worn naturally long with little or In the 1970s, the musical Hair hearkened back to the rebellious lifestyle and sexual revolution of the late 1960s and early '70S, and Angela Davis's became a symbol of black pride. Extremes like Grace Jones's forceful box cut and frosted defined the disco look, while Gloria Steinem's simple straight hair with a center part offered an anti-style statement.

Redken popularized pH-balanced and protein-enriched for better conditioning in the 1960s.

In 1971, the first hand-held blow-dryer limited trips to the salon by making it easy to simply "blow and go". In 1972 Geri Cusenza invented the crimping iron, which defined 80¶s style and later evolved into the flat iron.

In 1974, the feathered hair of Charlie's Angels star Farrah Fawcett was the decade's most copied 'do. Variations of African-American were popularized in 1975, and Dorothy Hamill's short, layered wedge became a sporty trademark in 1976 after she won the Olympic gold medal for figure skating. But even as Dorothy spun, punk rock brought purple, blue, green, and orange Mohawks into focus. were a "10" in 1979, a la Bo Derek.

In the 1980s, those newly prosperous from the economic boom opted for mall bangs, poodle perms, and voluminous hair. But Melanie Griffith showed that the first step on the woman's career ladder involved the shortening and taming of such "big" hair in the hit '8os movie Working Girl. Lady Diana's 1981 wedding made commoners around the world realize that dreams do come true if you have a short, elegantly layered head of hair. In 1988, Sinead O'Connor's shaved head, combined with her soft features, paved the way for all quiet, modem renegades, and dreads went glam as singer Lauryn Hill hit the charts that same year. Superstar Madonna started a revolutionary career with her controversial lyrics and stage moves and her wild, long, sometimes choppy, highlighted, root-infested tresses. The pop star exemplified a woman's right and capability to change her appearance as often as she liked, as was evident in the endless hair colors and styles she sported throughout the decade and beyond.

Change was the mantra of supermodel Linda Evangelista in the early 1990S. Because she constantly varied her hair's hue, length, and style, Linda's pictures in national women's magazines and her struts down designer catwalks were always anticipated. Anti-pop became popular itself in the 1990S, and grunge rocker Courtney Love's dark- rooted platinum look started the 1990s off with a screaming rant. By 1994, more conservative masses had found their "friend" in Jennifer Aniston's layered, angled cut.

In the late '90S, middle-parted, quick-styled, long, straight, pale blond hair rose to stardom on the heads of Carolyn Bessette Kennedy and Gwyneth Paltrow, perhaps in response to the 1995 international agreement to eliminate the production of chlorofluorocarbons found in aerosols, such as hair spray cans. At the turn of yet another millennium, actress Sarah Jessica Parker graced the small screen in an award- winning show, prompting widespread adoption of flowing, curly locks.

The year 2000+ can be explored in a more in-depth fashion forecasting class.

A FEW MORE HEROES:

Alexandre of Paris

His Work: Virtually everyone who was anyone from the 1930¶s to 80¶s was touched by Alexandre. His influential style and technique have spawned generations of younger hairdressers as his salon and techniques can still be seen at the heart of Paris fashion.

Why He¶s Influential: Among the most influential hairdressers of all time, Alexandre, his presence, his salon, his clientele and even his demeanor were all aristocratic. To this day his name inspires awe and respect from the biggest names in hair and fashion

What Influences Him: His mentor Masseur Antoine

Kenneth Battelle

His Work: Everyone liked it hot in the 1960s when Kenneth, the first hairdresser to gain first-name fame, traveled with Marilyn Monroe, created Jackie Kennedy¶s , styled Lauren Bacall and Audrey Hepburn, received the only Coty Award bestowed on a stylist and put a 17,000-square-foot salon in the former Vanderbilt mansion, where uniformed maids served finger sandwiches. The topper: his coif for Monroe, the day she sang ³Happy Birthday, Mr. President´ to JFK.

Why He¶s Influential: When he saved Monroe¶s hair from over-bleaching and perming, her fame reached new heights. In the 1970s, he put helmet-head to bed by creating a soft, pretty-hair look for Vogue, Glamour and Harper¶s Bazaar, beauty bibles of the time. Ultimately, he coifed Marilyn for her last photo shoot (Vogue) and cut Jackie¶s hair the morning she left for Dallas, underscoring that beloved hairdressers share the ups and downs of a lifetime.

What Influences Him: ³Necessity.´

Kenneth was one of the first hairdressers to cut the hair into roughly the desired shaped before setting and styling. He realized that perhaps that cut could help influence the style

Olive Benson

Her Work: She encapsulated a world of firsts for African-Americans, including first salon owner to offer advanced curly hair techniques and treatments (1959), first inducted into NCA¶s Hall of Renown (1991) and first to receive a North American Hairstyling Award (1996). Once director of education for Soft Sheen, she pioneered the first black-hair advanced training academy and developed the first universal .

Why She¶s Influential: Mastering all textures through competitions (and hoards of awards), she was the first authentically multicultural stylist who insisted, ³Hair is a texture, not an ethnicity.´ Today, that nomenclature is de rigueur

Who She Has Influenced: James Harris, creative director of Olive¶s Beauty Salon in Boston. ³She was instrumental in my traveling through Europe and we collaborated on many things. We made $750 on our Josephine Baker competition look; she gave the money to me and I gave it to Patrick Kelley, who went on to become the world¶s biggest black fashion designer.´

Vidal Sassoon:

His Work: 1954 - The first hairdresser to completely turn away from setting/teasing/styling. Created the concept of geometric cutting, pioneered was and wear. He saw hair as an extension of architecture, so it was only natural for him to approach things with a much more shape oriented approach. Also pioneered the use of the blow-dryer as we know it to polish and style hair.

1954 ± 1964 ± Developing and researching this new method of haircutting.

1964 ± Created the 5 point, a geometric, precise haircut that would revolutionize the way hair is cut

1967 ± First wash and wear permed haircut

1968 ± Present: Vidal Sassoon as a company continues to pioneer new cutting techniques.

Why He¶s Influential: Widely considered to be the father of modern haircutting, Sassoon is to this day perhaps the most recognizable name in hair ever.

Who He¶s Influenced: It seems one would have trouble locating a hairdresser alive today that has not been touched by the innovative techniques and revolutionary nature of the Sassoon name.

Jheri Redding:

His Work: As a young man Redding was believed hair care products did not perform to his expectations. He began experimenting with chemicals and other ingredients he found in his kitchen to make his own shampoos, rinses and hairdressing solutions to improve the hair of his clients. From that grew the treatments, styling creams and gels that became known as Jheri Redding Products.along the way, he founded Jheri Redding Products Company in 1956 He later co-founded three other major national hair care companies, Redken in 1960, Jhirmack in 1968, and, in 1979, Nexxus.

Why He¶s Influential: Redding is best-known for creating the , which was used by an entire generation of black people. But Redding is credited with being the inventor of modern day . He was the first to make "pH balanced" shampoos, to put vitamins in hair care products, and to market added minerals. He founded the international beauty products business that bore his name, along with three others. He was one of the first men in the United States ever to become licensed as a cosmetologist. As he succeeded, the recognized authority on hair color put his ideas into print when he wrote The Anatomy of a Permanent Wave. Redding also founded the Hollywood Design Council.

Who He¶s Influenced: All major product brands since

Christiaan

His Work: For more than 40 years, Christiaan has been one of the world¶s leading editorial hair stylists, working with fashion designers and celebrities to create iconic, memorable looks that appeared on the covers and within the pages of almost every fashion publication. His styles have appeared on thousands of runways and his editorial and advertising work showcases a unique, independent creativity, which ³I liken onto that of a painter or writer,´ says Christiaan.

Why He¶s Influential: Christiaan has styled many famous heads throughout his career, from 1980s pop divas Debbie Harry (Blondie) and Grace Jones²who owed their respective blonde tresses and dramatic flat-top to him²to celebrities like David and Victoria Beckham and Madonna. The , hair wrapping (with fabric) and the chopped, asymmetrical bob created for a Calvin Klein show are milestones in his career as a risk-taking session artist. A ³lucky fluke,´ he says, took him from his father¶s barbershop in a tiny Dutch village to editorial stardom. ³I¶ve always been more into the µdoing¶ than the result,´ he says, ³but I¶ve usually been thrilled with the result.´

Who Influences Him: In a career of collaboration with top fashion, photography and make-up talents, Christiaan names designers Stephen Sprouse and Comme des Garcons Founder Rei Kawakubo as the most pivotal to his work and creativity.

Paul Mitchell

His Work: Throughout his lifetime, Paul Mitchell was a hairdresser, artist, entrepreneur, environmentalist, businessman and devoted father. He freed women from uptight hair and the old wash and set paradigm. Mitchell worked in some of London¶s and New York¶s top salons along with Geraldine Stutz, president of Henri Bendell¶s, until he opened Crimpers and became co-owner of America¶s first chain salon. His cuts appeared in magazines like Vogue, Harper¶s Bazaar and on the cover of Newsweek magazine¶s first fashion issue. He created the country¶s first cutting clubs. In the late 1970s, he launched PM, his first line of products. In 1980, Mitchell teamed up with John Paul DeJoria to launch John Paul Mitchell Systems, today a global leader in hair care and education, and the worlds largest privately held professional hair care line co- owned by Mitchell¶s son, Angus.

Why He¶s Influential: Paul Mitchell forever altered the way women wash, style, wear and live with their hair through his work, education of other hairdressers, product line and the introduction of the blow dryer. He devoted his life to educating hairdressers and bolstering their creative and business success.

Who He Has Influenced: Countless hairdressers, namely those who are members of the John Paul Mitchell Systems global team. However, his love of the land, commitment to the industry and profound humanity and creativity live strongest and clearest in his son.

Irvine Rusk

His Work: Scotland-native Rusk is best known for powerful, edgy cuts and eventually for the products and tools to produce and maintain those looks. His images were seen worldwide on magazine covers and inside editorials and as an educator; his shows were regularly sold out.

Why He¶s Influential: ³We were known for cutting the µinside¶ of the hair and creating intense texture,´ says Rusk. He designed the very first texturizing shears based on his drawing in the early 1970s. The alpha and beta blades are still used today to create this intense texture. In addition to the shears, he invented and created a new line of products in different categories and was very hands-on with all the products and tools bearing the Rusk name. ³I loved working with the chemists,´ he says. ³I would stand there and physically show them how to do it!´

Who Influences Him: ³Sassoon, of course. He was like me and was able to parlay his love of hairdressing into a company, but at its heart it¶s still hair. I also admire Jean Louis David. He saw hair in an entirely different way, had such a great command of hairdressing and was able to franchise.

Trevor Sorbie

His Work: Between his barbershop beginnings and his O.B.E. (Officer of the British Empire) award, he pioneered The Wedge, The Chop and The Scrunch. Vidal Sassoon says of his former artistic director that he combines ³original thinking with superb technical ability.´ Anthony Mascolo acknowledges him as ³one of the best hairdressers ever²directionally and creatively.´ No wonder he won British Hairdresser of the Year an unrivaled four times.

Why He¶s Influential: Enough awards and editorial credits to fill this page, and a TV catalogue including GMTV, This Morning, Call My Bluff, Through the Keyhole, Watchdog and Faking It. He¶s the only hairdresser to have become so famous that his vocation has been a question on Who Wants to be a Millionaire? and The Weakest Link.

Who Influences Him: ³My mentor was Vidal Sassoon, who I worked for in the ¶70s. He taught me discipline in hairdressing and instilled in me that what you put in, you get out. His philosophy was that it was a tireless struggle to achieve the ultimate in hairdressing²there are no shortcuts; you simply have to put in the time and effort and you¶ll be rewarded.´

Annie Humphreys and Tim Hartley

Their Work: Respectively director of colour and technical research, and international creative director for Vidal Sassoon, for more than two decades, they were the company¶s innovators, top-line educators and best-known stage faces. Annie made color fun and accessible, with everything from paint rollers to cake icers. Tim created visionary, seasonal collections that were published worldwide.

Why They¶re Influential: As the force behind the Sassoon message and interpreters of its education, they profoundly influenced trends, techniques and how they were taught. Captivating countless stylists, they not only raised the bar for an entire industry, they launched thousands of successful careers.

Who Influences Them: For Annie, Vidal was a huge influence from a young age. ³He had the ability to inspire you to strive for and achieve things that seemed impossible at first,´ she says. ³I learned to give 150 percent to every task and always have perfection as my goal.´ Adds Tim, ³I was, of course, hugely inspired by Vidal because he taught me all about simplicity. This one quality is the common link to all objects of beauty. I am also grateful to Tom Ford for his fabulous references and clarity in his design ethos.´

They took the Vidal Sassoon esthetic and approach to cutting and kept the evolution going

Michael Gordon

Bumble & Bumble ± 1980s onward. He pioneered the resurgence of the putting looser texture back into hair, thereby marrying the cut with the products used to style the cut.

His Work: The founder of the Bumble and bumble salons, schools and products, Gordon also has had a successful career as a stylist and is a renowned photographer and author of the Hair Heroes series of books profiling iconic hairdressers and industry leaders, noting their brilliance in an uncelebrated world.

Why He¶s influential: Known for his inspirational photographs and style, Gordon works to push hairdressers beyond the traditional and accepted way of doing things. Through his club, products, training and school, Gordon developed the skills of thousands of hairdressers around the world. He realized his position of role model and used it to influence as many people as possible.

Who Influences Him: ³I never trained at Vidal Sassoon, in fact, I didn¶t meet him until I was in my mid 40s, but in the back of my mind, when I was building Bumble and bumble, I held Vidal and what he had done as a benchmark, a model. When I finally got to know Vidal, I understood the enormity of his generosity and contribution to hairdressing and the world, so much so that I was inspired to make a documentary of his life´.

Anthony Mascolo

His Work: When Mascolo began his career in hairdressing, he had to stand on a box to shampoo clients¶ hair. At 15, he joined his father and his brother Bruno in the family salon and worked with Bruno on photo shoots and magazine work to help promote the family business. In 1974 the brothers opened their first salon in London¶s Mayfair. Anthony was the premiere member of the first Toni & Guy artistic team and traveled the world educating and inspiring. TIGI was created and Anthony became the image leader of the brand and still is today. In 2002, Anthony opened Bed Head Studios in London where he creates and photographs all of the imagery and global branding for TIGI. He developed the TIGI International Creative Team and launched training academies in London, Italy and the U.S.

Why He¶s Influential: Mascolo¶s work is nothing short of exquisite. He has a total understanding of the kind of looks people want to wear. His show work and his fantasy ideas reflect his interests in fashion and demonstrate his creative thought patterns as well as his skills. His diverse work has influenced a generation of hairdressers and continues to do so.

Who Influences Him: ³Whether it is my own team, children or the edgy fashion, music and art that develops strongly from the young people of London, the untapped energy of youth is a great inspiration,´ says Mascolo. ³Crucially, though, it is those closest to me² my family and my team, who draw out my ever-expanding ideas and push my work forward.´ He brought product branding and hairstyling to a new level of notoriet John Sahag

His Work: Born in Beirut, Lebanon, Sahag moved to Australia at age 8. By 18, he was already a hair styling star in Sydney and moved to Paris to be closer to the fashion houses. Eventually moving to New York in 1985, he opened the John Sahag Workshop on Madison Avenue to accommodate his impressive client roster of celebrities, models, editors and other influential icons in the beauty and fashion industry. The workshop was also established to train other hairdressers in his signature dry-cutting method. World renowned for his extraordinary vision, intensity, integrity and his unusual, abstract editorial work, the designs of this ³rock and roll´ artist appeared in the photographs of Helmut Newton, Irving Penn, Hiro and Albert Watson and on the covers and in fashion and beauty magazines all over the world.

Why He¶s Influential: ³John Sahag approached hair with reverence, believing it to be spiritual material,´ says Thomas Clancy. ³He provided a refinement to our industry and thought it important to make it a lifelong quest to become a more cultured human being.´ In addition to his recognition by his peers, Sahag was presented with Cosmetic Executive Women Beauty Editors Choice Award in 1999, recognizing ³a stellar individual who distinguishes himself by making exceptionally innovative contributions to the industry.´

Who He Has Influenced: ³All hairdressers worth their salt have been influenced by John Sahag,´ says Clancy. ³Artists of all mediums are influenced by the way John saw shapes and made them come out in his medium, which was hair. He was known as a genius who followed his soul to find shapes not seen by others. All who crossed paths with John Sahag, if they weren¶t a craftsman or artist, were influenced by his kindness and spirituality.´

Summary:

³You cannot possibly predict the future of fashion without first studying and understanding its past´, says David Abrams, ³And if you cannot predict the future, you will always be destined to follow those who can.´

Understanding and interpreting the messages of fashion are at the very core of what makes us amazing hairdressers and sought after ambassadors of our clients¶ sense of style. Through learning the language of our past we can more easily imagine what the future is trying to tell us.

A well formed opinion is what ultimately separates many successful hairdressers from their not-so-successful counterparts. Here are a few key names, ideas, and time frames worth researching:

Victorian Fashion

Edwardian Fashion

20's:Flappers, Prohibition, Bauhaus

30's Depression era hair, Art Deco

40's Hollywood glamour

50's Beehives, Beatniks

60's Go-go fashion, Mods, Teddy Boys , Hippies

70's Disco vs. Hard rock

80's New Wave, Punk Rock, Heavy Metal, New Romantic, Preppy

90's Grunge, "The Rachel", late 90's pop

00's Harajuku, Micro Trends

Bauhaus and Vidal Sassoon and how architecture and art inspired his style

Shock Fashion from Lee Bowery, Marylyn Manson, Klaus Nomi, and GiGi Allin