·o~ers pause tor a :>ho!ul}r<1p 1 before entering the tunnel for another days labor.

Used with permission from Montrose County Historical Society

Water is Life For Home and Prosperity

Water is life: a simple concept; but in the arid west, settlers could not rely on rain to supply Reclamation, the work of bringing water to land to grow crops, had been practiced in the water to nourish their fields. The community at East Portal brought together people of vari­ American Southwest for centuries before settlers arrived. Attempts to engage the fed- ous skills and backgrounds to construct a t unnel that would transfer a portion of the Gunni­ eral government into the role of reclamation had been stymied for years, until Theodore son River water to the fields of the Uncompahgre Valley to the west. Their labors from 1905 Roosevelt, an avid outdoorsman, became president in 1901 . He threw his support behind to 1909 drove a tunnel 11 feet x 12 feet six miles through the cliffs of t he Black Canyon and the National Reclamation Act of 1902. Congressman John C. Bell, from nearby Montrose, helped ensure the survival of communities in the valley. was an early proponent. and cosponsored the bill which also authorized the Gunnison Tunnel. Bell vigorously argued for its passage on the floor of the House of Representatives. Few governments in the history of the world have given away land to their citizens. The Their words echo across generations for commitment to home and family. Homestead Act directed the U.S. Government to do that in the years following the Civil War. As families moved into the va lleys of western Colorado in the 1880s, they found the nearby 'The basis of our prosperity is our great agricultural productions, and the stability of our institutions depends upon the home owner5. The home has ever been streams to be unreliable sources of irrigation for their fields. Wit hout water, they couldn't esteemed as the basis of the government. It is the great humanizer and civilizer grow crops, and the land held no val ue for them . of the world. Can anyc>ne doubt the good sense policy advocated by this bill in lending to the home maker a few million to enable them to help themselves?" Plans to divert water from the Black Canyon's more dependable Gunnison River were 1.9.lll. ary. Beginning in 1894, surveys eventually revealed locations for both ends of a tunn~ 1n the canyon and the valley), with the intent of meeting in t he middle. A road was scraped into the canyon slopes, descending to the river, and the town of East Portal (also known as River Portal) was born.

John C. Bell

" On June 17, 1902, the Reclamation Act was passed.. . for the purpose of reclaiming the arid West by irrigating lands and thus creating new homes, upon the land. .. it has gone far to transform the social aspect of the West, making for the stabil­ ity of the institutions upon which the welfare of the whole country rests ... " Theodore Roosevelt, 1913

Pres dent 'Rteodore Roosevelt • e ... • ... argea Chief Engineer of the new Bureau of Reclamation, i: e to proceed with building five projects: 1) Milk River in 2 ~ands or Truckee, Nevada, 3) North Platte, Wyoming, 4) the Salt River Project in Arizona, and 5) the Uncompahgre Project in 4~""'11'~~-3radcr, whose best-known feature was -the Gunnison lb~ Newell was among Roosevelt's closest advisors on conservation. Frederick Newell Uncompahgre Valley Water Users Association Architects of Community Connecting the Dots

Many engineers and surveyors participated in planning the tunnel, The idea of diggin~ a tunnel from two sides of a mountain and meeting in the middle was not but three were at the forefront. Their education and experiences new, but survey messurements had to be precise. Using geometry, a series of polygons or shapes combined to achieve success from life-threatening challenges and were mapped out from the canyon floor, up to the rim, across Vernal Mesa and out to the Un­ project-halting troubles. Their work led to the kind of community ~pahgre Valley. Maintaining rigid lines and angles across the tortuous terrain was arduous. envisioned by leaders like John Bell and Theodore Roosevelt. "II!. ' .- 'II y -· ·~ ! ' • '

J I~ By linking the hypotenuse (or !:. , long side) of right angled triangles '• 1. together, a direct line could be stretched from the river to the rim, The jovial Ira McConnell explored the as t hese men are doing. Raising just depths of the canyon. He completed one straight line up one of the side surveys that pinpointed the tunnel draws of the canyon (as on headings and towns of East Portal in the the brown dotted line below) canyon, and Lujane (luh-WAH-nah) on connected the landscape into the 1 careful series of polygons. the. 1 1 ~ _ side Qf tile ' He tunnel construction through the most difficult of problems. Uncompahgre Valley W•ter Users Assoc "'°

Abraham Lincoln Fellows first supervised water engineering on the Montezuma Project near Cor­ tez, Colorado. Contacts he made after gradu­ ation from Yale University brought him west where he was thrilled to take on field surveys. A graduate of Cornell University, Herbert His commitment to both farmers and Roosevelt's Daniels was the superintendent of the conservation principles provided perseverance town of East Portal. Schooled in erigi­ needed to bring the project to life. neering, his steady hand on day-to-day National Archives and Records Administration matters kept construction on schedu e, the t unnel on a straight course. and the town well supplied. Courtesy of family of Helbert Da nie~ East Portal about 1905

Getting Here For a Safe Visit Historic Resources ted, but is discou raged when river flows are high. The 6.5 mile East Portal Road intersects the South Fishing: A Colorado Fishing license is req uired, and Observe these safety precautions for an enjoyable All plants, animals, rocks, and historic objects are pro­ Rim Drive in Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Gold Medal Waters regulations apply. Fishing is pro­ Another two miles of river are accessible downstream visit tected by federal law. Do not damage historic or natural Park at the entrance stat ion. Although it is paved, hibited within 500 feet of Crystal Dam. on the North River Route. Camping is available with a • The river is swift and cold. Don't swim in the river. features. If you find an artifact, please leave it in place the steep road has grades up to 16%. Vehicl es over backcountry permit issued from a self-registration box • Watch for ticks during spring and early summer. and notify a ranger. 22 feet in length, including trailers, are prohibited. Camping: A 15-site campground is available on a at the campground or at the South Rim Visitor Center. • Poison ivy grows in cool moist areas along t he river Drivers should be in their lowest gear to avoid brake first-come, first-served basis. Walk-in and drive-in sites For more information see the Black Canyon "Exploring and in the campground. damage or fa ilure. The road is closed in winter, usually are available; water and vault toilets are provided. It is the Wilderness" brochure. • Pets are prohibited downstream from the camp­ early November to mid-April. occasionally full in summer. ground. They are permitted on a leash everywhere Other Places to Visit: else at East Portal. Other restrictions in the national Things To Do Hiking: An anglers' trail downstream from the camp­ park apply. ground provides .5 mile of river access. The road from Montrose County Historical Society Museum: • Rocks fall anywhere along the East Portal Road, Exhibits: Outdoor panels are located at the Gunnison the campground to Crystal Dam is available for hiking Artifacts and displays tell more of the story of the tun­ especially in rainy weather. Drive with caution, and Diversion Dam and picnic area, and both inside and and bicycling. There is no public access to, or around, nel and East Portal at 21 N. Rio Grande in Montrose, watch for rocks. outside the ranger station. Exhibits further tell the Crystal Dam. Colorado. Open daily in the summer. • Special regulations apply in the backcountry. story of East Portal, and the building of the Gunnison See the Black Canyon " Exploring the Wilderness " Tunnel. Wilderness Access: Another one mile of river access Uncompahgre Water Users Association Head­ brochure for more information. East Portal is part of Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is provided for hearty hikers who brave the 400-foot quarters: Open daily for people to do business with and Curecanti National Recreation Area. They are two of more Accessibility: Much of the terrain is fairly level, and climb over the Devils Backbone. Crossing the river in the association, but a display outside of this historical than 390 parks in the National Park System. To learn about national most of the exhibits, bathrooms, and ranger station small water craft to the North River Route is permit- building shares more of the Gunnison Tunnel story; parks and National Park Service programs in America's communities. are accessible. 601 N. Park Avenue in Montrose. visrt www.nps.gov. 1892 The Dream Torrence and Fellows

Hydrologist Abraham Lincoln Fe llows, on the right in the photograph, was tele­ The idea for a tunnel is credited t o Frank Lauzon, a miner, prospecting in the mountains grammed from Washingt on, D.C. to investigate the tunnel's potential. He hired Tor­ around Leadville, Colorado and Moab, Utah . By th~ early 1890s he was trying to suc­ renc@ for a 9-day expedition in August, 1901. In the canyon the cliffs narrow to 40 ceed at farming in Montrose. A story is told that ht! had a dream. Worries of making feet. Fellows described The Narrows, " ... we saw before us the mighty jaws, from ends meet plagued him, w hen, in a cold sweat, he fell asleep. It was then t hat he saw which there was to be no escape, [and) a feeling of nervousness and dread came the wat ers of the Gunnison River brought to t he v~lley. over rne for the first time." Their survey readings revealed the tunnel to be feasible.

While the waters of the Gunnison River were the most reliable in the area, the river had carved t hrough the Gunnison Uplift, which rises 2,000 feet above the Uncompahgre (un-come-PAH-gray) Valley. This creat ed a serious barrier for farmers wanting to reach the river's waters.

NPS Early Exploration Decorative plates, sold by the local Redding Furniture Company, highlighted the An onsite inspection trip of Black Canyon and the Gunnison River was organized in 1900 original site for the tunnel, and under John Pelton, farmer, miner, and head of the local land office. Members included encouraged farmers to sign up surveyor John Curtis, farmers Erik Anderson and Frank Hovey, and youthful William for water to pay back the cost T r director of the '-veal electric com...122!!Y. The unexi:ilored r- ' proved to be of construction. a great challenge. At a place called "The Narrows" they abandoned their quest and clawed their way to the rim. However, the trip focused state and national attention on the proposal. and support for it increased.

Denver Public Library, Western History Colk!<:tion

Building The Road 1904 Choosing a Site A road was blasted into the cliffs, and twisted its way down to the river. At grades up to 32%, the road tortured Initial plans for the tunnel placed it at The Narrows. Survey teams teamsters who drove supplies, including three 11,600 pound boilers for t he power plant, to the emerging town at the rushed over the rims of the canyon and braved troubles that challenged canyon bottom. even the most hardy. An alternate site was eventually selected three miles upriver because the cost of construction was lower. A writer for the Montrose Press recorded, "Every vehicle that goes to the River Portal is provided with an iron " shoe" that fastens on the back wheel and secured by a chain ... W ith the wheel securely fastened ...one's hair stands on end as the horses start on a trot... so we shut our eyes, grapple the lines as tightly as possible, and trust to Providence that t he vehicle will remain on the grade until a level spot is struck ... "

East-Portal Emerges~------..- - .""""""....____ ~ ~ - --5--~ -- ~ . __...... ~~ :: ·~ _.::-~~---=t---~~ Residents of the growing town of East Portal originally lived in canvas tents.

~...... __ ---~-~...-.... -- ~ By 1906 it was a thriving community clutching the slopes of the canyon. -- - - - While it never housed more than 250 people, it did provide a dining hall and bunkhouses for single men working around the clock in three shifts. Fami­ Postcards heralded life in the towns lies lived in private cabins. Other services included a hospital, post office, at each end of the tunnel. Although general store, library, billiard hall, and school. Although they were isolated, they were short-lived, East Portal and they were not unaware of national events. Like many Colorado towns that Lujane were noteworthy because of ra ised relief money, they gathered $220.00 to help survivors of the San the work being done. Francisco earthquake.

Technological Change Methods of Digging

Two advances in technology made work safer and easier. Jack hammers fed by a To create a tunnel 12 feet tall, workers used a "heading and bench system." compressor replaced hand-turned drill bits to set holes for blasting charges. Dynamite They initially cut a "heading" out of the rock by starting at the top of the bore. replaced black powder for blasting. It was more stable, reliable, and reduced the num­ They cut down 6 to 8 feet, leaving a bench of 7 to 5 feet on which to stand. Two ber of injuries during the project. Construction began in January, 1905. By 1906 shifts drillers and a helper cut deeper into the rock while standing on the bench. The of workers (up to 30 at a time) functioned like a well-oiled machine inside the tunnel. bench was eventually cut out, leaving the full 12-foot height of the tunnel.

Workers used electric-powered trains to lug the carts full of debris out after blasting. Candles While digging continued on the tunnel, a massive effort was made to extend a and lanterns were first used to light the work, but While work progressed around the clock in the tunnel, office help system of ditches to carry the water to i ndividua I farm fie ds. The largest of these, electric lights strung along lines improved visibility continued to keep the laborers supplied. Payroll, purchasing and the South Ca nal, would carry water from the tunnel to the Uncompahgre River. in the tunnel. repairs on equipment were all part of the effort.

----''l=he -Gam - -r-taij i-s-fuU efas-fine--a-.Jet-ef1el-lows-as-walk the Ame-RG.an-wil-and-the'l e-an-do-an thing they -undertak-e-.,_''-- Montrose Press, June 29, 1906.

Culmination

Workers digging from both ends met in the middle in July. President William Taft was vacationing in the west, and an invitation to dedicat e the tunnel was made. A gala Those attending the event with a parade, speeches, music, and dining supported the dedication on Sept em­ event sent postcards ber 23, 1909. Taft pressed a button at West Portal, laborers opened a makeshift gate, markin g t he dedication. and water flowed into the valley. Commemorative pins were proudly displayed in Montrose that fall.

Memorial arches soared more than two GUNNISON GORGE NATIONAL stories high on Main CONSERVATION AREA Street in Montrese, welcoming people from around the country.

CURECANTI NATIONAL RECREATION AREA 1922 MONmOSE

Although the tunnel w as dedicat ed in 1909, much work remained. A diversion dam, concret e lining of the tunnel, and finishing t he ditch syst em were not completed until 1922. Additions have been made over t he yea rs. TO GUNNISON-

Irrigation water usually f lows through the tunnel from April through October. Gravity causes the water t o flow from West Portal through the South Ca nal to the Uncompahgre River (see map at right). Like a central artery that branches out to capi llaries, the river supplies six primary canals, such as the s Montrose & Delta or Se lig Canals. From these primary canals \ TORIDGWAY water flows into secondary ditches and eventually into farm ---~ Unless otherwise noted, all photos and artifacts are used with perm ission from the fields. Today's farmers have inherited a legacy of living close Gate and equipment houses provide for the workings of the tunnel at East Portal. Montrose County Historical Society. to the land, and remind us of America's agricultural roots. NPS