The St. Lawrence Counq Historical Association OUARTERLY Volume XLV - Number 4 - Fall 2000 the St

The St. Lawrence CounQ Historical Association OUARTERLY Volume XLV - Number 4 - Fall 2000 The St. Lawrence County Historical Association at the Silas Wright House

The St. Lawrence County Historical Association is a pri based at the Silas Wright House in Canton, New York Foun constitution, by-laws, and Board of Trustees. The l&&mt!&Association~s membership meets$mnually to a#<'.. elect its trustees. 8

#$ 2001 Oflcers: 2001 Trustees: # President: Richard Foster, Roq />/#@ Chris Angus, Canton I Vice-President: Carl ~tickp$T or wood Patricia Carson, Canton $3 Treasurer: Carol ~ohnd,Canton R. Shawn Gray, Massena g Secretary: ~athlee~.~oro,J. Canton Gary Kelly, Potsdam f

3"' E. Jane Layo, Waddington f 1 Stan Maine, Pierrepont j 2001 staff'*' Lowell McAllister, ~euvel&n Trent Tndock, Executive Director Jane Subramanian, potsdanf' ~ue~J,af&shore,Collections Manager Joanne Swift, Potsdam p all en Jones, Archives Manager. J. Rebecca Thompson, H . awa Falls ~everl$~~wnell,Administrative Assistant Peter Van de Water, cantod Robert Wells, Canton 1 Susie Wood, Harnmond 4 \ h 3 %%. B Ya. \ 3 \ Our Mission I .j The St. Lawrence County Historical Assoc*hr, on is a not-for-profit membership organization an&useum which serves as an educational resource for the use and -fit of the citizens of St. Lawrence County and Qthersinterested in the County's history and traditions. The ~ssociatio3r~o11ectsand preserves archival material and @facts pertinent to the County's history. In cooperation and collaboration'~i8-~~~~~~tionpromotes an understanding of and appreciation for the County's rich history through publications, exhibits, and programs. The St Lawrence County Historical Association operates within museum standards established by the American Association of Museums. SLCHA Membership Membership in the St. Lawrence County Historical Association is open to all interested parties. Annual membership dues are: Individual, $25; SeniorIStudent, $20; Family, $35; Contributor, $50; Supporter, $100; Patron, $250; Businesses, $50 to $1,000. Members receive the SLCHA Quarterly, the Historical Association's bi-monthly newsletter, and various discounts on publications, programs and events. St. Lawrence County Historical Association at the Silas Wright House 3 East Main Street, PO Box 8 Canton, New York 13617 (315) 386-8133 fax (315) 386-8134 e-mail: [email protected] www.slcha.org The St. Lawrence Countv Historical Association terly is end owed in m lest Newell and Ella \

'ublicatio Volume XLV - Number 4 - 2000 )ossible . funds from . . ISSN: 0558-1931

CONTENTS Ouimet

Editor's Note By Pamela Ouimet

Ford's Dam By David E. Martin

~pyrrght @ The Islands awrence Cc By Valera M. Bickelhaupt

Except fi . .. . The Lost Art of Writing By Pamela Ouimet

Rensselaer Falls Historian Passes Away (Reprintedji-om the St. Lawrence Plaindealer)

Annual Heritage Day

Dessert Theater

Issue Editor: Pamela Ommet

Cover Illustration: A number of early typewriters are shown here. The first practical commercial typewriter was designed in 1867 by Wisconsin newspaperman and politician, Chnstopher Sheles. It was made by the Remington Company and was sold for $125.00. (Photo courtesy of Pam Ouimet)

Courtesy of SLCHA Editor's Note:

In our last issue of the Quarterly, due to the mismarking of photos, pictures which accompanied the Cooper's Falls story were erroneously miscaptioned. We truly regret the error and would like it known that the author, Bryan Thompson, was unaware that such photos were scheduled to run with his article. Mr. Thompson has supplied us with the proper caption information which follows (All photos courtesy of SLCHA):

Water coming through William Cooper k Canal.

1 Blast furnace (lefl) and grist mill (right), 1874-1885.

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly Men pose for a photo before what wasprobably a hotel at Cooper's Falls.

Oswegatchie Improvement Association, 1915. A temporaryfoot-bridge.

Removing rocksfvom the channel in the rive^

3 St. Lawrence Colinty Historical Association Qtiarterly CORRECTIONS PAGE EDlT0R9SNOTE: Once again, the editor extends her apologies to Bryan Thompson, author of the article on Cooper's Falls in our previous issue, for inadvertently omitting the full references that belonged with his article.

Sources: 17). Canton,W. St. Lawrence County Empire Dream. Watertown, NY: Child, Hamilton (1873). Gazetteer and Clerk's OfKce. Watertown Daily Times, August Business Directory of St. Lawrence 21,1%1. County, N. K for 1873-74. Syracuse, County Clerk (nd.). Mortgages L2:91, The Journal Ofzce. L4: 102, L9:539, L21B:305, L22A: 190,456, L22B:456, L23A: 110, Cooper, Paul F. Archives. Cooper L23B:409, L25A:532, L26B: 62,194, Family Papers. Oneonta, NY : mck L28A:380, L29A:503,607, L3 7A:623, College. L37B:79, L45A:491, L51A:444, L53B:457, L120A:3. Canton, NY : St. County Clerk (nd.). Court Papers: Lawrence County Clerk's Office. Boxes #387, 41 0, 443,449. Canton, NY: St. Lawrence County Clerk's Office. Curtis, Gates ed.(1894). Our County and It $ People: A Memorial Record of County Clerk (nd.). Deed Books. St. Lawrence County From the Earliest L1:310,L4:149,198,235,355,374, Period to the Present 'lime. Syracuse: L6:167,L7:226,291,Lll:206, L16:514, D. Mason & Co. L19:174,L23:619,L24:487, L31:315,317,582,585,L32:312, Town of DeKalb Clerk (nd.). Meeting L45B:640, L46A:41, L47C:109,III, Book One. DeKalb Town Clerk's Office. L49C:233,330,331, L50A:421,422,424,425, L51B:43, Town of DeKalb Clerk (nd.). Meeting L51C:278,323,L52A:535, Book Two. DeKalb Town Clerk's Office. L52B:310,312, L53B:56,124, L54B:17, L54C: 70, L55A:415, L56A:91,94, Dill, David B. From Cambray to L56C:589, L57C:534, L58B:445, Ogdensburg in 36 hours with L60B:196, L61B:145, L6lC:398,401, Gouverneur Morris. The Quarterly, L62A:9,19,21,22, L67C:81,84,87,90, April 1976. Canton, NY: SLCHA. L69C:89, L71A:618, L71B:377,379, L 71C:499,504,L72A:331,367, Everts, L. H. (1878). A History of St. L72C:90,246,385,L73B:636, Lawrence County, New York. L73C:38,315, L74B:403,407,449, Philadelphia: L. H. Everts & Co. L75A:443,L75C:571,573, L77B:140,142,L86C:229,232, Hough, Franklin (1853). A History ofst. L87C:318, L91B:34,63, L92B:286, Lawrence and Franklin Counties, New L93C: 72,77, L99B:92, L102B:460, York. Albany, Little & Co. L103B:494, LII5C:296, L116C:201, L120A:326, L123B:1147, L124A:8, New York State Historical Association L140A:605,L143C:1658, Library. William H. Averill Family L144A:81,82, L151C:1435,1438, Papers. Cooperstown: NYSHA. L155C:1511,L159C:1320, L163A:395, L186C:1454, L187A:j. Taylor, Alan (1996). William Cooper b Canton, NY : St. Lawrence County Town, New York. Alfred A. Knopf. Clerk's OfKce. Watertown Daily Times (1961). County Clerk (nd.). Maps: Book I @age Cooper b Falls Failed as Industrial

4 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly Ford's Dam By David E. Martin

On October 20, 1749 Abbe Francois Picquet began construction, at the confluence of the Oswegatchie and the St. Lawrence rivers, a mission and fort that he called Fort La Presentation. Abbe Picquet's purpose of the mission was twofold. First, to convert the local Indians to Christianity, and secondly, a fort at this location would make it possible to monitor the activities of the Enghsh at their fort in Oswego. The location of Fort La Presentation also provided an ideal opportunity to monitor any British movement up or down the St. Lawrence River. From the very onset, Abbe Picquet encountered numerous ~roblernsnot unlike those encoun- iered by other missions. But Fa- Rev. ther Picquet it appears, was a very Father Picquet, .Founder ofLa Presentation persuasive individual and was soon able to elicit cooperation from all abundance of rivers and streams for ninety-six families living there. As- but the French soldiers who would water power. A dam was needed suming that a family consisted of only plow a little land. Father to raise the water level of the two or more people, this would Picquet also had a good relation- Oswegatchie River so the kinetic mean there were more than eight ship with the local Indians. He suc- energy of the water would power hundred people at La Presentation ceeded in mastering the Algonquin, the d. in only two years since it was Sioux and Huron languages and founded (Garand, p.26). Abbe was able to communicate with all I know of no documentation as Picquet also obtained a perpetual the local tributes. He treated the to the design and structure of the lease, from the authorities at Que- Indians kindly and soon gained their dam used to raise the water level, bec for the mill pridege on the river. respect, and for the most part, com- but I think it is safe to assume the Father Picquet was given a tract of plete cooperation. dam was constructed of material land, an acre-and-a-half facing the readily available near the mtll. That Oswegatchie, three-quarters of an After founding La Presentation, area surrounding La Presentation acre on each side of the sawmill, among the first structures to be built contained vast forests of hard and an acre-and-a-halfwidth (Ga- was a sawmill to provide lumber woods such as oak and maple, and rand, p. 36). for the many buildings and other stone was also readily available. structures that would be needed at With the dam and mill com- La Presentation. For a sawmill to Francois Picquet was so suc- pleted, Father Picquet now had work, there has to be a source of cessfbl in the administration of La sufficient power for his needs and power, and fortunately the north- Presentation that by the end of his mill prospered. eastern part of the country has an 175 1 there were three hundred and

5 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Qrtarterly named Nathan Ford (who had ex- plored and knew the land that Mr. Ogden had purchased), to go north and take possession of his property for him. Upon his arrival, Mr. Ford took possession of the prop- erties and evaluated the town and mill works, which needed consid- erable repair to be functional. He went over to Canada and hired some forty men and began repairs on the dam and sawmill (Gathers, p. 90). There is no record that this writer is aware of as to the design of the dam built by Picquet, but it was probably con- sistent with the design that was commonly used throughout Europe at that time called The Rock Fill. Nathan Ford, Agent for Samuel Ogden The Rock Fill is a modified form of the earth dam using rock of all sizes to provide stability, and an imper- Then came The Seven Years The Americans became the vious membrane to provide water- War (1754- 1760) and Father owners of the North Country, in- tightness. The membrane may be a Picquet's foresight and wisdom in cluding St. Lawrence County and blanket of impervious soil, a con- building a sawmill at La Presenta- the town of Oswegatchie, immedi- crete slab, a timber deck or other tion was then clearly seen. Boat ately after the Revolutionary War. similar design (Law Dams, p. 48). 1oads.ofboards and small and large The Treaty ofParis had been signed beams used in the construction of on April 19,1783 by England and We do, however, have a good forts were leaving Oswegatchie the American Colonies. But the record of the dam built by Ford. daily. Schooners and other embar- English continued to occupy When Northern European settlers kations were built there and served Oswegatchie until June 1, 1796, migrated to New England they to convey troops, artillery, fieight, under the pretext of protecting their brought with them their own ideas munitions of war and kept La Pre- fur trade. as to how a dam should be built. sentation, Frontenac, Toronto and The dams were, for the most part, Niagara in constant cornrnunica- Under protection of the British constructed entirely by the wheel- tion. flag, the old sawmill built by Father wrights themselves so the dams Picquet at the west end ofthe dam were generally simple structures. In At the end of The Seven Years across the Oswegatchie was rebuilt most cases the design depended War, Fort La Presentation was now on a much larger scale, and the entirely on the type of material in the hands of the English, and a business of lumbering was com- readily available. In this case, the squad of soldiers was stationed menced anew (Garand, p. 161). area around Oswegatchie was car- there to guard the British fur and After thirteen years of illegal occu- peted with fine timber and there lumber interests. A large lumber pation, the British were finally was an abundance of loose stone business was carried on here by forced out ofAmerican territory in about. Canadian lumber companies. The upstate New York as of June 1, forests for miles around were de- 1796. It was in the early 1960s when nuded of their most valuable tim- it became necessary to drain the ber, which was floated in cribs On May 3,1792 the entire town Oswegatchie River in order to ef- down the smaller rivers or hauled of Oswegatchie and three other fectively repair the pumps at the to the St. Lawrence, where it was towns became the property of Ogdensburg Pumping Station The rafted and floated down to Que- Samuel Ogden of New York City. gates on the west end ofthe present bec for the English market. He hired a young, energetic man dam were opened and all the wa-

6 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly use) across the Oswegatchie River at Ogdensburg, New York. Also on the west side of the river can be seen the saw mill also built by Nathan Ford. ter was allowed to drain out. ARer more than fifty years of submersion, the dam built by Nathan Ford ap- peared behd the present concrete dam. The old dam was indeed similar to the dams built throughout Europe. They were unsophisticated pieces of work formed from a collection of logs or beams built at right angles to each other, so as to build up a stout wooden frame- work. All manner of configurations were population, and a common father was a filling, between the wooden bars of earth, stones, gravel or brushwood, or some combination ofthese materials (Smith, p. 145-146). The dam built by Ford could be seen to be a succession of cribs constructed of large timbers and jointed face of the Here is a clear view of the water face of FordDDam. Some of the timbers and dam was eight feet planksfrom which the deck was constructed can be seen. The deck allowed high and probably sat on bedrock ice and debris to slide smoothly over the dam without causing a jam. and may have been anchored to the

St. Lawrence Countv Historrcal Associarion O~larrerlv ~-~ - 3 ~~ - L -2 I 1 that more water ~owerwas needed for the many mill's and factories that were springing up on the west side of the Oswegatchie River. In 19 10 a new concrete dam was constructed in front of Ford's old dam. The new dam was approximately twelve feet high, four feet higher than the old dam. This provided all the water power required by the mills and factories. Now all ofthe mills and factories are gone and the kinetic energy of the Oswegatchie River is being used to generate electricity. Works Cited Garand, P.S. History of the City of Ogdensburg. Ogdensburg, NY: Rev. Manual J. Belleville,

Curtis, Gates. Our county and its people: a memorial record of St. Lawrence County, New York. Syra- cuse, NY : D. Mason & Co.

Smith, Nonnan. A history of dams. Secaucus, NY: Citadel Press.

Low Dams, a manual of designfor small water storage projects. Wash- In this picture taken in the early 1960s, Ford's Dam can be seen behind the ington, DC: National Resources Com- new concrete dam built in 1910. mittee, 1938. bedrock with spikes. The cribs at the time I was able to pull sev- were filled with rocks of various eral spikes out ofthe beams with sizes to the top ofthe dam and ta- little or no effort with my bare pered back to form a "ramp" on hands. the backside ofthe dam. The stone provided a tremendous amount of Although so simple in design and weight, and thus stability for the structure, the fact that this dam sur- dam. The water face or the ramp vived for almost one hundred years section of the dam was covered is indeed a testimony to its strength with heavy planks to create a fairly and durability. Prior to 1800, tim- smooth surface to allow debris and ber dams were perhaps up to one ice to flow over the dam and not hundred feet in length, usually ten create a jam at the top of the dam. feet high and rarely higher than fifteen feet (Smith, p. 148). Thls dam The heavy planks were spiked at Ogdensburg was almost hehun- to a wooden fiame built oftimbers dred feet long. using large iron hand wrought spikes approximately eight inches With the advent of the industrial long. This writer remembers that spurt in the area, it became clear

8 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly The Islands By Valera M. Bickelhaupt

"When Eve plucked death fiom Mississaquas. Other Indian names the U. S . and Canada passes some- the tree of life and brought tears such as Spearhood Point, Indian what arbitrady among the islands and sorrow upon the earth, Adam Chief, Little Squaw Island, and varying in size from a small pile of was drive out into the world to Grindstone Island are reminders of rocks with a few stunted trees, to mourn with her and taste fiom the the part the Indians played in the Wellesley Island which contains bitter spring that we taste today. history ofthe area. Oak Island was nearly 10,000 acres of variable The angels, on their wings, bore the once called Indian Hut Island, land. silent Eden to the eternal spheres Atlantis was Big Squaw, and Twight on high and placed it in heaven, but was Little Squaw. Every rock on The object of this article is to in passing through space they which there was a tree was show and make persons aware of dropped some flowers from the counted as an island and it has been the importance ofthe St. Lawrence Garden Divine along the way to noted that there are 1,692 in all. River to the history of Hammond. mark their course. These flowers The St. Lawrence River has of changing hues, falling into the marked the line of separation be- THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER great river, became the Thousand tween Canada and the United The St. Lawrence River has Isles - The Paradise of the St. States since the boundary line was played an important part in form- Lawrence." tixed by treaty soon after the Revo- ing the history of Hammond. We lutionary War. The Thousand Is- have a tendency to take the river "When the flowers fell fiom the land section of the river has been and the Thousand Islands for wings of the angels, some were the scene of some ofthe irn~ortant granted. We seldom stop to real- scattered apart from the others - campaigns in four great conflicts ize their true value. The Indians some ofthe most beautihl ones fell between nations. The fist was the named this area "The Garden ofthe in the river belong to the main col- Indian War between the Algonquins Great Spirit." They thought the lection, forming the scattered is- and the Iroquois, which continued Thousand Islands region was the lands above Chippewa Bay." many years with occasional inter- only spot beautiful enough for their missions. The second struggle was god to enjoy when he was seeking CHlPPEWAY BAY between the French and English, relaxation fiom his duties. There was a Mohawk legend and some of the hostile meetings that the Great Spirit planted these and victories and defeats took place Jacques Cartier (149 1-1557), islands as his earthly paradise, then on the islands and on neighboring a French navigator, discovered the scooped out deep basins of rock shores. In the Revolution and the river. from the lower reaches of the river War of 1812, this was an impor- to create treacherous rapids and tant locality. Some ofthe most ex- When Samuel de Champlain thus to protect this sanctuary fiom citing incidents ofthe disgracehl came up the river in 16 15 while invasion. Their name for the area military action known as the Patriot exploring the land for France, he was Manatonana, or Garden of the War took place near here with the found the Algonquin and Iroquois Great Spirit. burning of the Canadian steamer, Indian tribes engaged in a war of Sir Robert Peel, and the Battle of extermination. He found himself The Indians of this area were a the Windmill in 183 8. supporting the Algonquins, thus branch of the Chippewa called making the Iroquois hate the Mississaqua, who built birch ca- The island came to the state French. This was the forerunner noes and huts. From 1826-27 there through several treaties with the of the French and Indian War, were 200-300 of these Indians. The dividing line between which was the American phase of

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly the SevenYears' War, fought be- fought at Ogdensburg, Brockville, of the trees grown on them, which tween England the France (1754- and Prescott. We have proof that were sold to the steam ship lines to 1763). Champlain had made war some fighting was in Hammond. be used for hel. Capt. Henry on the Iroquois, earning France the There is a cannon ball cemented in Denner bought 100 for $1,900.00. undying hatred of the tributes that the stone front of Hamrnond Mu- continued to plague the colonies for seum that was brought up out of The St. Lawrence River with its a century-and-a-half. In 1734, a the river at Oak Point. If the Brit- 1000 Islands bordering the town young French priest, Abbe ish had not been defeated at the of Harnrnond on the north, along Francois Picquet, arrived in Windmill, our history books might with the natural beauty of its Montreal. He was soon followed read differently today and Canada graceful shores, affords many deal by other French priests. They be- might still be under British rule. campsites. The residential resorts gan the diflricult task of winning the of Chippewa Bay and Oak Point, tributes to Christianity and the The St. Lawrence River starts two of the oldest settlements French cause, which was no small at the eastern end ofLake Ontario in town, together with the summer task or by no means an easy one. and extends for more than 800 colony of Schermerhorn's Land- As the French were making their miles to the Atlantic Ocean. The ing, are nature's best answer to claims to territories along the river, first sixty miles are home to the those seeking a redid vacation with the British were doing the same, but 1000 Islands. To the Indians this the best fishing, safe bathing for different reasons. The French was "The Garden of the Great beaches, a post office, and a con- saw the colonies as centers oftrade Spirit," a place to refresh for win- venience store. with the tributes supplying their fur ter, a place to plant corn, to find trade. The British used the colo- meat and fish, a place easy to come When the Revolutionary War nies as dumping grounds for to by water, a place to rest and be ended in 1783 and for thirteen years England's poor, its landless and its at peace. Although the area is called after, the British held control of the religious minorities, often putting the 1000 Islands, the actual count only settlements and fortifications them at odds with the tribes who varies from 1,786 to 1,800. Be- located in the extreme northern part saw the British settlers takmg their cause the water level fluctuates ofNewYork. There is little known ancestral lands. @omseason to season and year to about the locality except that on the year, some shoals and rocks con- south side ofthe river back for hun- Between the dates of 1754, sidered a small island may occa- dreds of miles was one vast wil- which was the beginning of the sionally disappear fiom view. A few derness. The Indian tribes claimed French and Indian War, and 1838, years ago I was contacted by a title to all this land and surrendered when the Battle of the Windmill Mrs. Hart who lives on Indian that title to the United States in a ended the Patriot War, four wars Point. The family had recently lost treaty held in Albany in March of had been fought in this area; French a little girl who enjoyed playing on 1795. and Indian War, War of 18 12, the shoal in front of their home. Revolutionary War, and the Patriot Mrs. Hart wanted my support in The first actual resident of War. Much of the fighting was done their effort to have that shoal de- Harnrnond was W~lliamMcNeil, a around and on the St. Lawrence clared a part of the 1000 Island Yankee from Vermont. He lived River. Forts had been built to for- chain. Their request was granted in a cave in Chippewa Bay which t@ the settlers against enemy inva- and they named the island Angel was by the river and under a rock sion. Fort La Presentation was Island. That shoal, nowAngel Is- that runs back quite a ways. There built at Ogdensburg in 1749 by land, is assessed for $4,200.00. was a spring near the mouth and Abbe Picquet to protect his inter- McNeil built up a stone projection ests from the British. It wasn't a It has been estimated that one and entrance here. There is a strong fort as it was not able to third of all the fresh water of the roomier cave just a few rods down stand the assaults, and was de- world flows through the St. the river in the same rock. It is stroyed. The Battle of the Wind- Lawrence River. While most ofthe thought that McNeil used both mill was fought not far from Fort 1000 Islands are in the Alexandria caves. He was a hermit by nature Wellington at Prescott, Ontario. Bay-Clayton area, some are in the and lived by hunting and fishing. For Harnmond area. Their assessed several years he lived there alone, In the book, "Warriors of La value means that many dollars are the only white man in the whole Presentation," written by James paid in taxes. In the beginning, the vicinity. What became of him no Reagan, are descriptions ofbattles islands were worth only the price one knows.

10 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly Two years after the treaty in bark, lath, hoops, stones, tons of the islanders, the islanders are es- Albany, some of this land was of- iron and pig iron, lead from the sential to the residents. fered for sale. Alexander Macomb Rossie and Macomb mines, tons purchased extensively, that track of grain, all kinds of farm produce, As the islands were of so little being known as the "Macomb Pur- cattle, hops, and barrels of apples value, no one cared when two run- chase." Later Macomb sold a large passed over the docks. In 18 18, a away slaves made their way to the portion to David Ogden, who in large two-story warehouse was islands in the early 1830s and took turn sold it to Abijah Hamrnond, a erected and operated as a general up residence. They lived in huts brother-in-law. Without ever see- story by an Adam Cooper fiom and survived by hunting and fishmg ing his purchase, Harnmond sold Oxbow. The property was later as well as doing odd jobs for 28,871 acres to David Paris. Four taken over by Capt. James Denner, people on the mainland. Jack lived years later Parish installed Loren owner and operator of a fleet of on what is now Atlantis and Joe on Bailey as his land agent in 1814. boats. One of his boats was lost what is now Wynanoke. At that with all hands in a storm on Lake time, those two islands were called At this time, there was consid- Ontario. Jack's and Joe's. erable unrest in Scotland due to deplorable living conditions, and The first residence in Chippewa In 1838, a hermit by the name Scottish families were imigrating to Bay was built in 183 8 and a three- of Ezra Brockway found his way America. They crossed the ocean story hotel stood where the to Cedar Island. He told how his in sailing vessels, landing in Forrester cottage stood. mother had been murdered and he Montreal and then coming up the Chippewa Bay boasted many busi- had been set adrift as an infant in a river in Durham boats. (A Durham nesses in those early days. Among canoe and was rescued by a Ca- boat was scow built and had an them was an ashery where pearl ash nadian lady who took him into her enclosed cabin where the passen- was made and shipped to Oswego home and raised him like a son. He gers could eat and sleep.) The time by boat. There was a glass factory was fighting in the Patriot War, consumed in coming up the river to and a water-powered sawmill of when knowing he was about to be Ogdensburg-a distance of 140 logs which was kept busy from taken prisoner, he feigned death. rniles-was about seven days. They spring until August. Hundreds of When it was safe to make his es- were met in Ogdensburg by Loren logs were floated down the creek cape, he threw together a raft. Bailey, David Parish's land agent, while more were brought in by Using a board for a paddle, he and he would persuade them to teams of horses. On the waterfront started up the river until he reached settle in this territory, which was was a saw mill and shingle mill, Cedar Island where he lived for 38 then Rossie and Morristown. which did a good business because years. In a dream, it was revealed Hammond had not yet been boats loaded directly from the to him that he was a son of Napo- formed. Hammond was formed docks. A cooper shop manufac- leon Bonaparte. This he believed. from parts of Rossie and tured butter tubs, wash tubs, cedar He rehsed to pay taxes nor do Morristown in 1827. cisterns and pack barrels. Its's sad anything he thought to be beneath to say the coming of the railroad the dignity of royalty. In the early days, the French put an end to all this. controlled this part of the river. He built a hut, hunted and fished They named it Port Madraze, but After the railroad was built, the for his living, always had a good later it was given the Indian name river continued to play an impor- garden, and made friends with of Chippewa, to which was added tant part in the history of Chippewa those on the mainland. He also the name Bay. This was because Bay and still does. The islands pro- made a good black salve fiom of the beautihl body of water, vide employment for the residents herbs and pine pitch which his which fi-ontsthe Chippewa Bay d- and Chippewa Bay provides what friends sold for him. He rehsed to lage. the islanders need. The post office tell anyone how he made it. Folks is important to them as well as the were so eager to know, they would There being no railroads in the docks, the large parking lot, and search his cabin looking for a recipe early days, all town business trans- the stores. The residents have been when he was gone. Never could portation was drawn by ox-teams caretakers, domestics, cooks, one be found. As he grew older, or horses to ChippewaBay, thence handymen, and boatmen working his friends worried about his living by boat and river. Thousands of for the same families year after year. alone on the island in the winter. He feet oflumber, timber, shingles, tan- While the residents are essential to rehsed to go to the mainland, so

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly people watched for smoke fiom his deeded from Mr. Sheppard to hotel with 20 bedrooms, a large chimney. One day, not seeing any, Frederick Remington, the famous dining room and lounge. It was some men went to check on him Western painter and sculptor. The well patronized. It was said that and found him sick and halffiozen. island was then named Inglenuk. Mrs. Phillips was a good cook and They brought him to ChippewaBay The island consisted of 3 '/z acres, Mr. Phillips was Frederick where he died a few days later on and was wild and secluded, close Remington's favorite model. A March 21, 1876. On his death- to the Canadian border, and had.a store carrying most of what every- bed, he was again asked for the modest size home. This cottage one might need was leased by an recipe. In a weakvoice and point- faced Canada, giving a nice view Ogdensburg merchant every suming to his head, his answer was, "It of the Canadian coastline, and was mer. A point of activity was the is in my head and that is where it is surrounded by trees. It was attrac- large dock, where twice a day folks going to stay." He died a short time tively hrnished with the kitchen met as they awaited the arrival of later and is buried in the Pleasant apart fiom the main building. One the steamboats, the Riverside and Valley Cemetery near the vault. of his paintings, a river scene, hung the Island Belle. Those steamers Whether insane or not, Ezra was a on the dining room wall. Mr. which on their way fiom and to Al- strange person, telling interesting Rernington was an expert canoeist exandria Bay and Ogdensburg, left stories, impossible for one to be- and weighing nearly 250 pounds, mail and groceries which had lieve, but which he believed. he would fill the canoe almost to been ordered the day before, and the brim. He loved being in and on took aboard and discharged pas- In 1994, William Hull, a Can- the river, owning several boats as sengers. Little by little, this changed ton, New York resident, wrote to well as canoes. All his boats had with the times. In 1905, part of the me asking for whatever information the name of Indian Braves that he island became the Cedar Island I had on Ezra Brockway. In tum, was so familiar with during the years State Park, while the rest ofthe is- he sent me what he had. He had he was in the West. His studio was land was sold to individual own- found there was a Brockway Fam- located a short distance away fiom ers. The hotel had become a ily Association which he had re- his house. Folks on the mainland shambles and was tom down in searched. He found Ezra had mar- were often called upon to be his 1980 and burned. Many ried a Scottish woman and had four models. He would dress them up Ogdensburg families bought not children. His wife and children lived in costumes, put them in a birch only property on Cedar Island, but in the St. Lawrence County poor bark canoe, and sketch them for also some of the islands nearby. house for a period in 1847 de- Wreuse and reference. scribed as vagrants. His delived The St. Lawrence River has there again between 1858 and He grew to love Lnglenuk even been called the "Gate Way to the 1864. In 1854, Ezra Brockway more than the West, writing to a West." We know this to be true as bought Cedar Islands - the island fiiend, "Oh, I am itching to get up we watch the ocean-going vessels itself and several small ones known to that island but it is three long and lakers plying the river. But how as the Cedar Island group - for months. By my studio in the morn- many of us are aware of another $25.00. In 1885, three ofhis chil- ing when the birds are singing and water-way made possible by dren sold the cluster of islands for the sun a-shining and hop among the river. Alonzo Swain, born in $350.00 to Martin Phillips who the bass. When I die, my heaven 1894, living in Chippewa Bay, told later built a hotel on Cedar. is going to be something hke this." in an article written by Ernest Brockway's military record Cook how the Indians used showed he fought in the Patriot War Living only ten years after buy- Chippewa Creek as a regular high- and was at the Battle of the Wind- ing the island, he passed away on way when they traveled north and mill in 1838. While Alexander the day after Christmas in 1909 at south. They came to Chippewa Macomb purchased the Mainland, the age of 48. He left behind a Bay, turned into the waters of it was Azarich Walton who bought western legacy in paint and bronze. the creek and would paddle right the 1000 Islands. His pictures were seldom of beauty up to within a short carrying or splendor: but were painted fiom distance to Black Lake. Indian par- One of the small islands bought the heart as he saw "The Vanishing ties used it as they moved north by Ezra Brockway was first sold Old West". and south to visit other Indians or to Martin Phillips in 1885 who in to hunt and fish in the Indian River turn sold it to George Sheppard in A year after buying Cedar Is- or to go into the Mohawk country. 1887. In May of 1900 it was land, Martin Phillips built a large

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly Mr. Swain told how the Indians other building is a stone boathouse Youth Conference. It was torn had a regular camping ground un- with a slip eighteen feet by twenty- down in the 1970s. der the hill just above where the five feet, which contains nine bed- creek made up near the ledge. It rooms and two baths plus utility Oak Point is a popular swim- was in that camp one fall that an rooms. There is a smaller boat- ming spot and at one time was used elderly Indian woman was taken ill house, squash court, and pavilion. by the school for their swimming and died. The Indians wrapped her program. Also, it is close enough in a blanket, built a platform and Mr. Bourne passed away -in to the village that kids can ride their placed her body on it. It remained March of 19 19, leaving the island bikes to get there. "Going to the there all winter and in the spring they to his daughter, Mrs. Alex Thayer. Point" is a popular phrase of both came and got it and took it to their Upon her death in 1962, the famdy young and old as they head to the burying grounds. gave the property to the LaSalle Point for a swim and ice cream af- Military Academy. This property ter a hot day's work. While Oak Dark Island, called Lone Star was sold in 1965 to become a Point may seem quiet in the winter, by the Indians, is located just within Children's Christian Home. The it was once a-buzz with activity in the international boundary near owner is Rev. Harold Martin and the summer. The Inn, as well as Chippewa Bay. It was later named has been operated as a nondenomi- the residents, employed our young Dark Island because of the dark national retreat. Rev. Martin passed people during the summer months. look it had from up and down the away in November of 1999. At More than one romance has bud- river due to the number of ever- the present time, October 2000, the ded there and some have blossomed greens growing on it. It was used property is being offered for sale. to last a lifetime. by the Indians as witnessed by the AAer the Martins obtained the number of mowheads and places property, the name ofthe castle was A lighthouse is described in to grind meal which had been found cha.nged from The Towers to Webster's dictionary as a tower on it. Jorstadt. located at some place important or dangerous to navigation. It has a After buying the island in 1904, While Oak Point is a smaller very bright light at the top from Singer Sewing Machine Company hamlet than Chippewa Bay, it is a which ships are guided or warned President Frederick Bourne built a pleasant spot on the river with both at night. castle on it at a cost of residential and summer homes. $500,000.00. This castle, first After Hammond was organized in The St. Lawrence River is one called The Towers and later named 1827, settlers soon found their way of the world's great commercial Jorstadt, is one of the few castles to the Point. The first settlement was waterways. It carries the waters in the United States. Built of gran- in 1824 when George Elliot built of the Great Lakes from Lake ite quarried at Oak Island, it con- his house. Among the first fdes Ontario to the Gulf of St. tains 42 rooms and is three stories coming by means of horse and Lawrence, approximately 775 high. The ground floor has a library, wagon from Trenton, New York, miles. The completion of the St. five bedrooms, four baths, two was Abraham Schermerhorn. He Lawrence Seaway, with its enor- kitchens plus a servants dining room was engaged in the hotel business, mous locks, its power projects and and sitting rooms. The main floor a tannery, a shoe shop, distillery, the rebuilding of the Welland Ca- contains a large auditorium served and ashery. He was soon followed nal, made it possible for large ocean by a butler's pantry and a serving by businessmen who operated a li- ships to navigate to the heartland room with dumb waiter service quor store, grocery store, a gen- ofNorthAmerica. Thls has opened from the kitchen below. The up- eral store and saw d.Steam boats up commerce for many large indus- per floor contains several bedrooms stopped there daily on their way up trial cities and the shipment of ma- and a large massage room. and down the river. The Billings terial and grain from the factories family built a dance pavilion on their and fields of Canada and the United In addition to the red tiled roof property. The Oak Point Inn did a States to all parts ofthe world. castle are several other buildings on thriving business with the owners the island, one of which is a five meeting the trains to accommodate There are lighthouses in the St. story clock tower about fifteen feet their guests. The Inn was later Lawrence Seaway, with two of square. It has a twelve-foot diam- bought by The St. Lawrence them in Harnmond waters. A little eter clock face with six-foot hands Presbytery and became a religious way up from Oak Point is the only on each of the upper sides. An- retreat and every summer hosted a island that sits all by itself It is in

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly the middle of the river between impact on the town. It has made the boathouse but not the land. Lee Canada and the United States and easy accessibility to Chippewa Bay, slowly began to expand by build- is at the point ofthe river where the Oak Point, and the many map roads ing more cottages and renting deep water channel on the Cana- as well as Schermerhorn's Land- wooden boats and small motors. dian side of the river has crossed ing, Indian Point Road, A store was added to the first cot- over onto the American side. It is, McGregor's trailer pa& Blind Bay, tage where they sold kerosene, therefore, called Cross-Over Island etc. Under the same contract, the baked goods and some groceries. and the lighthouse built in 1847 is River Road and Look-Outs were Tina began to serve meals and called Cross-Over Island Light. built. Many lovely homes have been lunches as well as doing washings built on the River Road and the and ironing. Lee went near the The lighthouse keepers never Look-Outs are indeed an attrac- Canadian border and raised lum- spoke of something being north, tive and popular spot. After pull- ber and doors fkom sunken ships. south, east or west, but as being ing off Route 12 onto the parking Most of the cottages were built upstream, downstream, the Arneri- area, one gets a beautihl view up from buildings Lee had bought, can side or the Canadian side. The and down the river. The walkways, moved and remodeled - such as island is about seventy-five percent information center, and well-kept cottages, boathouses, and ice solid rock. In 1847, the United grassy areas are enjoyed by the houses. Cottage No. Nine had States bought Rock Island, Sunken many who stop there. But as the been used as a look-out and lis- Rock, and Cross-Over islands for saying goes - "there are two sides tening post during World War II. a total sum of $250.00. That same to every coin." Route 12 took year Congress appropriated a to- some valuable farm land and build- Lee soon found it necessary to tal sum of $6,000.00to construct ings. Much of the farm land, how- hire a fbll-time carpenter. They a lighthouse on each island. Cross- ever, was then sold to individuals rented their farm to their daughter Over is 3 50 feet long and 150 feet who bought lots and built on them and her husband, Doris and wide with an elevation often to fif- - this is referred to as river-front Maurice Maloy, in 1941, and teen feet. It is about seventy-five property. The homes are both resi- bought the only original log house percent solid rock and rises up out dential and seasonal with the own- in the town (on the Cook Road) of the water liea little gem. Four- ers knowing and appreciating the which they modernized. Before teen keepers served the light. Af- value of the river and the parties Lee's death in 1956, he had started ter World War 11, the lighthouse traveling on Route 12 are made to build his 15" cottage. After his was abandoned and is now pri- aware of its beauty. An unbeliev- death, Tina sold the business and vately owned. able amount ofthe rive- fiont prop- eleven acres to her son, Bill, and erty is assessed for well over the farm to Doris and Maurice. Sister Island lighthouse is across $100,000.00. Not only has Route from Chippewa Bay and not vis- 12 added many dollars to the tax In 1945, Bill was discharged ible from the mainland. It is built roll, but it has made the beauty from military service and came on one of three islands in the group available to all. home to work for his father at the known as the Three Sister Islands Landing. His first loves were boats - a small island consisting of only In 1924, Lee Schermerhorn and the river. He soon built a dock three-tenths of an acre in the main built for his own use the first cot- - used one side for his boat and channel of the river. The need of it tage on what is now known as rented the other side. This humble was realized after the Civil War. It Schermerhorn's Landing. The beginning was what has later be- was completed in 1870 and used property was the family's farm land come one of the best known ma- as a navigational guide unti the Sea- and had once been a corn field and rine facilities in the North Country. way was opened. It was then re- cow pasture. His wife, Tina, had Bill continued to work for his fa- placed by a buoy and like Cross- already been serving meals and giv- ther and did small engine repairs in Over, is now privately owned. The ing lodging to fishermen coming to his spare time. In 1950 he accepted buoy is stii maintained by the U. S. the area. At this time there were the position of rural mail carrier Coast Guard. very few privately owned cottages while continuing his motor repair on the river-front or on the little business. A real asset to the town of colony known as Forrester's Hammond is Route 12, built Landing. However, there were By this time, there was more through the town during the years many boathouses lining the shore than one dock space rented. In of 1965- 1967. It has made a great built by local people who owned 1956, the family took advantage of

St. Lawrence County Historical Association QuarterZy the Evinrude motor fhchise, which About the time of the War of at'thattime that daring men, known was available to them. A larger 1812 there were two known gangs as bootleggers, started to smuggle shop had been built and to that they of horse thieves - one known as liquor from Canada, where it was added a small gift shop. Bill and the Patterson's, while the other was legal, into the United States. The Bea continued to expand, and in the Reynolds Gang. SamPatterson names of these men were only whis- 1959 Bill resigned from the Post lived in a hut at ChippewaBay with pered - it was both exciting and Ofice Department and was de- his wife and three children. Early dangerous. There were some men voted M-time to the business. The historians mention Patterson and his in Hammond who were brave cottages were remodeled and mod- men as a band of freebooters and enough to partake in this unlawful ernized. Theirs was the first pump- referred to them as thieves, pirates way of making money. The United ing station for sewage in the area. and raiders. Patterson had an ac- States stepped up the number of Prior to this, the garbage was taken complice, a French Canadian who Border Patrol agents who patrolled out in the river and dumped. More posed as a peddler. He would the river and the mainland. The is- buildings were constructed, then tramp through the Canadian mainland made ideal hiding places for they took on the Cobia franchise. land close to the border, offering one to hide. Folks living along the In 1967, the Schermerhorn Land- his wares and spotting valuable shoreline would tell of seeing flash- ing Corporation purchased a 40- horses and possessions. This in- ing lights out on the river as men acre wood lot area from Robert formation he would pass on to were signaling one another. Those Hofferberth, bounded on one side Patterson, who would assemble his living on country roads told of hear- by Crooked Creek and the other band and set out. A favorite con- ing cars speeding by in the night as side by Duck Cove. The Duck cealment for stolen horses was an the drivers hurried to outdistance Cove area was developed into more island near the Canadian shore, the agents. A favorite place for docking space, and they continued reached by a devious and nearly smugglers to "duck into" to unload to expand. concealed channel. Other hiding their boats was Chippewa Creek. places were Chippewa Creek and Many a load was dumped into the What was once a cow pasture an island opposite Chippewa Bay. creek by a bootlegger who pre- and cornfield in 1927, is now one Their headquarters were in Rossie, ferred dumping his load rather than of the best and most prosperous close enough to make for easy being caught with it. The Twenty- and well-known businesses on the transportation, and where the caves first Amendment was repealed in shore of the St. Lawrence River. were ideal for hiding their loot. 1936 after about Ween years of the Being started in a small way by Lee They were "tough customers" and most exciting period of Harnrnond and Tina it was hrther developed were not above taking a likely history. Henry Denner, a Harnmond by Bill and Bea, and now is over- saddle horse from his own coun- native and a Border Patrol agent, seen by their daughter, Susan and trymen. After what Sam Patterson was the most feared by the boot- her husband, Dale Stoutenger, the promised his family would be his legger. Some Harnmond men name Schermerhorn Landing is last venture and that he would go were known to make only an oc- known far and wide. into hiding, he was fatally shot. casional "trip," while others did so on a large scale. About the time Hamrnond was Over the years, there has and being settled, the Embargo Act had always will be smuggling. Furs, The St. Lawrence River, a been passed by the JeffersonAd- jewelry, lace, sdk, cigarettes, aliens, world-renowned vacation paradise ministration prohibiting trade with narcotics, etc., as well as run-away and important to today's com- England. This included her pos- slaves, criminals, draft-dodgers, merce, has also been the cause of sessions as well. This angered the etc., the list could go on and on. many tragedies. An unexpected large land owners and the islands Bothunited States and Canada are storm a heavy fog, or strong wind became a "hot bed" for smugglers. involved. Our common sense tells can come quickly - catching a boat- Cattle and sheep were openly us that Hammond with its miles of man unaware and causing accidents driven into Canada. Pot ash and river-front, has played a part. that sometimes lead to drowning. other commodities were ex- Reasons for some fatalities is that a changed for Canadian goods. It is Few ofus today can remember person unfdarwith the river can said the amount of smuggling in the days of Prohibition during the strike a shoal hidden beneath the those days made the days of Pro- 1920s and '30s, after the Twenty- water's surface or misjudge the hibition seem tame in comparison. first Amendment had been passed thickness of the ice, suffer a leg prohibiting the sale of liquor. It was cramp or swim out beyond their

St. Lawrence County Historical Associat~onQuarterly strength. People have drowned by then, Chippewa Bay had pretty talked about Scow Island. She trying to save the lives of others, much escaped it. It was four days was a remarkable lady. and sometimes through careless- later before one could see water ness. Suicide has lured many to its and not oil. But still there were gobs SCOW ISLAND - as described waters. Some bodies are found of oil everywhere. A week after by Ruth Babcock quickly while it may take days and the spill found the clean-up crew in William Post ofnewYork City even weeks to recover others. 111 swing. bought the island in the early 1900s. Some bodies are never found. After building the yacht house to Hamrnond families have lost loved Oil stained everything it shelter his yacht, the Karma, he ones fiom time-to-time by drown- touched. It got on the islands, the demolished the shed already on the ing related to all these reasons. shoreline, boats and clothing. It island and built a beautiful home. collected in eddies, floating booms This was a three-story summer In 1932, the drill boat and docks, and its odor hung in the home consisting of thirteen bed- "America" with a crew of seven- air. rooms, six-and-a-halfbaths, a large teen exploded near Dark Island. living room, dining room (both with Seven ofthe crew were killed, one Wildlife was badly affected, in- large fire places), a butler's pantry, of whom was William Aiken, Sr. of cluding animals, birds, and fish life a large kitchen, a third-floor dor- Chippewa Bay. His son, William as well as wildflowers. Mice, mitory, storeroom, helpers dining Aiken, Jr., along with Harley snakes, otters and weasels lived in room, basement laundry, sun porch, Dooley, both from Chippewa Bay, the marshes. Dead ducks, herons, and a wide veranda. The building and Vincent McLear of Black and bitterns were found and the was made of wood with a stone Lake, were among the ten who dependent young were still in their railing on the porch and a stone were injured. While the river is here nests. The wildflowers - water lil- walkway to the terrace. One par- for all ofus to enjoy, it also demands ies, purple and yellow flat and jew- ticular beauty of the house is an our respect. elweed were all affected. The full open staircase reaching from the extent of the damage was not first floor to the third floor. Most On June 23, 1976, just above known for a long time. Let us hope of the walls are papered and set Alexandria Bay, an oil barge hit a that something like this never hap- off with painted woodwork. shoal, unplugging the hole in its hull, pens to mar the beauty of our river letting crude oil into the river. The again. The Posts had many servants - town's shoreline was soon coated a cook, kitchen maid, chamber with sludge that moved down- The barge "Nepco 140," car- maid, butler, laundress, gardener, stream and soon there was oil on rying 800,000 gallons ofno. 6 fuel boatman, housekeeper, and man everything and staining everything oil, was being pushed upstreah by just to wash windows. Mr. and it touched. The odor was nauseat- the tug Eileen C, when she struck a Mrs. Post dressed formally for dining - closing the river traffic and shoal, rupturing three often tanks. ner every night whether they had wasting a year of river life. It took The wheelman did not realize he guests or not. hundreds of people three months had hit anything and continued to clean the worst of it. It cost over nearly five miles. The boat released Glasfords next owned the is- nine million dollars of the taxpay- 300,000 gallons of oil, which land, a widower and his daughter, ers money. flowed downstream, touching 60 Margaret. They kept only a few miles of shoreline with its oozy mess servants, mostly blacks, and re- As soon as Bill Schermerhorn and noxious fumes and threatening tained Floyd as their boatman and learned of the spill, he and his men everything it touched. caretaker. They owned the island worked quickly to store every boat for ten years before Mr. Glasford's in their care in a shed or at Duck A few years before her death in death, and Margaret kept it for an- Cove where they were protected 1977 at the at of 77, I asked Ruth other two years. She sold it to Dr. by an improvised boom, and a Babcock, to talk into a tape re- Sidney Quarrier for a modest sum tanker was brought in to suck up corder about the forty years she in 1952. The Quarriers had elec- the glop. A boom set up near Oak and her husband, Floyd, worked tricity installed - the power coming Island gave way and allowed the at Scow Island. They were life-long fiom Chippewa Bay via cable. The filth to flow into ChippewaBay. Oil residents of Chippewa Bay. She doctor only lived one year after was everywhere and a light north- gladly agreed to this and I spent a buying the property. Their only east wind kept it trapped. Until pleasant afternoon with her as she help was Floyd, and Ruth who

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly cooked three days a week for thir- The way oflife has changed but the also been referred to as the lost teen years before she had to give it love of the river will never change. continent. up because of arthritis. Floyd worked for forty years on Scow The islands, which were of so After the War of 1812, the Island before his death in 1974. little worth at one time, are now Royal Engineers Survey named an The Quarriers never forgot Ruth. very valuable. Beautifid homes and island "Split Log" after a Huron The doctor's three sons and one gardens grace these island, many chief who was an ally of the British daughter always came to see her ofwhich are assessed for between in the campaign in the Detroit area and remembered her on special $100,000.00 and $200,000.00, in the War of 1812. Later it was occasions. with a few for more than called Joe's Island because, like $200,000.00. The shore, which Atlantis, it too had been occupied Island life changed during the was once farmland, is lined with by a runaway slave. After being forty years Floyd Babcock worked residential and seasonal homes, bought by the Orcutt family in on Scow Island when the Posts had which are assessed accordingly. 1891, it was given the name nine servants and dressed for din- The tax dollars paid on these prop- Wyanoke by the new owners. The ner every night to the more care- erties are a big plus for the town of island has remained in the family, free life of the present owners. Is- Hammond. The river provides but in 1985 a granddaughter sold land life became less and less for- opportunities for small businesses her share to Allen and Kate Newell. mal ... and employment for the working person: Small diners, motor repair A Mrs. Johnson, when visiting Many of the first families who shops, cottage and boat rentals, another island, fell in love with pink came to spend their summers on fishing guides, caretakers, cooks, Laurentian limestone island called the river brought their help with them domestic help, waitresses, baby sit- "Hog's Back." She bought the is- while others hired local people. ters, and gardeners are some of the land from the county as it had never Usually having the same person jobs made available, in addition to been sold before. By 1924, she come back season after season. more employment for carpenters, had a house and boathouse built on Provisions were ordered a day plumbers, and electricians. it. After the death of her husband, ahead fiom Ogdensburg merchants McGregor7sTrailer Park, Blind she surrounded herself with young and delivered to Cedar Island twice Bay, and Schermerhorn's Landing people in whom she took a great daily by either Riverside or the Is- are a few of the popular vacation interest. She also took a great in- land Belle steamship with mail. spots. terest in her island, which she called Milk and ice were bought on the "The Rock." She had tons oftop- mainland. The train was the only There is no denying the eco- soil brought in, planted trees and means of transportation and the nomic impact the river has made gardens, and hrnished the house Pullman car was a blessing as one on our town as we think ofthe dol- with antiques. One of her favorite could sleep the night away and ar- lars spent in our area by those we young people was a man by rive at their destination rested. This refer to as "the summer people." the name of David Halliwell who was appreciated by the husbands was a successfU1 businessman. He who could only be here on week- Many of the names of the is- took an early semi-retirement and ends. lands are changed when sold to was a constant companion and new owners. Ingleneuk, once trusted confidant ofMrs. Johnson. The fast car has replaced the owned by Frederick Remington, is He too took a great interest in the train; motor boats have replaced now called Tamagani after being island, especially the gardens. the row boat; and generators and bought by the Strong family of Hog's Back, once a barren rock, electricity have replaced the ice Ogdensburg. Jack's Island named had become a spot of beauty. box. Modernization of island for the run-away slave who lived In spite of its transformation, "The homes has cut the need of some there, is now Atlantis. When bought Rock" remains what it is - solid and domestic help. Motor boats pro- by the Bailey family from immovable, forever attached to the vide quicker and easier transpor- Ogdensburg in 1886, the book earth. tation thus enabling folks to take "Atlantis" had just been published. advantage of local businesses. Atlantis is a legendary island or Just as Lone Star Island was Slacks and shorts have replaced continent supposed to have existed renamed Dark Island, the name of the long skirts worn by the ladies in the Atlantic, west of Gibraltar and the castle was also changed. who always "dressed to the nines." to have sunk into the ocean. It has Named The Towers by Mr.

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly Bourne, Dr. Martin changed the next came the Durham boat used name to Jorstadt Castle. by the settler. There were steam- ships whose companies bought the Oak Island, once named Indian trees on the island and provided Hut Island, is seventh in size of all transportation for our commodities. the 1000 Islands and the largest in Next came passenger boats, some the Chippewa Bay area. It is two making daily trips between miles long and consists of "375 to Ogdensburg and Alexandria Bay 500" acres, which include a stone and stopping at some ofthe islands quarry, and at one time a working to deliver mail and groceries. Boats fm. The stone quarry is no longer were and are a popular sport. Fast used, but the stones used in Boldt's motor boats were used by the Castle and on Dark Island came smugglers and are a necessity to the from this quarry. It is my under- islander. A day spent on the river standing that at one time the entire is most enjoyable and the many island was owned by Charles Lyon, boats that have made marinas a but now the property has been bro- "must." There was no more pleas- ken up and sold. ant sound than that of the steamship as it "chug-chugged" on the An interesting legend has been river in the quiet of the night, or no passed down from generation to prettier sight than that of the all- generation. As the story goes - in lighted-up ship as it makes its way the very early days, a Frenchman up and down the river. came to this section - perhaps sent by France to explore the country. There has been much research, He was a man with wealth who was thought and time put into this ar- befiended by a beautiful Indian girl. ticle. My hope is that it has ac- He fell in love with her and they complished what I set out to do a married. A lovely home was built year ago. I want to thank Sherry on Chimney Island and because of Moquin who so kindly let me keep the Frenchman's wealth, he was the book, "Who's Up" out of the able to have fine fUmiturebrought library for such a long period. My fiom Montreal. But, she had a lover appreciation goes to Betty Wood among her own people. One night who gave me the book "River this Indian lover got together a Tie"; to former historians who left band of his own people and they behind so much information; to came to the island, approaching it James Reagan whose book "War- quietly in true Indian fashion. Be- riors ofLaPresentation" provided fore the couple knew anything was the early history; to the newspaper amiss, they were attacked by whiz- editors whose articles have been zing arrows. The Frenchman fell clipped and saved; and to my son, dead and the girl was swept out of Danny, who I would ask, "Should the building, now a captive of her I include this?" and his answer own people. The Indians set fire would be, "Just because you know to the building and danced around it, doesn't mean everyone does." as it burned to the ground. After the fire consumed the building, the Indians stole away, taking the girl with them. It is not known what happened to her. Boats have played an important part in our history. First, there was the canoe paddled by the Indians,

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly The Lost Art of Writing By Pamela Ouimet, Quarterly Editor

Imagine taking the time out to- time-frame from the early 1800s carve a quill and mix the powder day to sit at a desk with a pen in into the 1950s. for their ink before even beginning hand and writing a letter on a nice to put any words down on paper. piece of stationary to a friend or Museum Director Betsy Travis loved one. Okay, now refine that said they are hoping the general "We hope to encourage an ap- thought to consider sitting at a well public, as well as school groups will preciation for communication from crafted desk that may have been in come to view the wondrous arti- the past," Director Travis said. your family for generations, your facts on display. "pen" consists of a quill and inkwell, Many of the pieces of the ex- and your stationary is a rough piece "We felt communication is so hibit are the personal property of of papyrus. taken for granted and easier today. Carl Stickney. This is one of sev- It used to be difficult - but it was eral collections he has. He said his Since the advent of electric beaum and followed etiquette.We interest in the writing accessories typewriters, computers and email, have letters, writings, journals that came from getting a few pieces the craft of a well written letter in show a little bit of that," Mrs. Travis which belonged to his family. fancy calligraphy style has all but said. gone to the way-side. When As Mr. Stickeny adds to his people want to send out a letter, When people today do sit down collection, he said it is like finding they sit and type one out, using the to write a letter, it is often obvious pieces of a puzzle. He has found convenience of correct tape on that penmanship in itself has dete- pieces in flea markets, at garage their electric typewriter, or the de- riorated from days gone by. The sales and from antique dealers. He lete key on their computer's key- work that went into writing a letter said the interest in collecting writ- board. back in the early 1800s is now ing memorabilia is increasing. taken for granted. When people We rarely think of sitting down pick up a ball point pen today, they "Writing related items are hard and hand crafting personalized in- probably never think of how it used to come by. There is a large mar- vitations for a party or event, but to be when the writer had to first ket for them. They are almost all rather contact an agency to do it for us. The Potsdam Public Museum is encouraging area residents of all ages to come and take a first-hand look at the "tools" which were once used to craft a letter. The Museum is hosting an exhibit that will be displayed into November 2001 entitled "The Write Stuff: Inkpots to Typewrit- ers." The museum is open from noon to 4 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday and is located on Park Street in the Civic Center Building in Potsdam. The display spans a The fancy scr~ptofpostcard senders IS shown In thrs drsplay (Photo courtesy ofPam Ourmet)

19 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Qtiarterly ability. It was very pains-taking - there was a lot of work involved." Back in the lgthcentury and early 20~century people made their own invitations. This was a time when people held large parties and gatherings at their homes. A time when entertaining was done by nearly everyone. If someone had to sit down and pen an invitation, a sympathy note, or even a "Dear John" letter, they needed only to turn to one of many books in print for assistance. These small books gave examples on how to word any number of letters. The books also had all of the proper vocabulary and terms which were to be used. According to The American Lstter- Writel; and Mirror of Po- lite Behavior: A Useful Guide in the Art of Letter- Writing, Vith Rules of Conduct For Both Sexes, published in 1851, "The art of letter-writing is one which enters so largely into the daily transactions of life, that those who lack either the taste or the ability to indite a gen- teel and sensible epistle, are defi- This hotel regishy shows how/lomboyantpeoples' signatures once were. cient in one ofthe most imponant (Photo courtesy ofPam Ouimet) one of a kind and are easy to display," he said of their popularity. "They are items that are not used anymore. They are outdated. Some people may use a fountain pen, but not many" In looking at the exhibit and speaking of its significance, Mr. Stickney showed a pure sign of appreciation for the pieces in the exhibit. "It shows an importance ofwrit- ing - it was really an art," he said. "There are examples of writing, and I some of them took a lot oftime. In Invitations, notes and autographs were once penned in a flourish many cases you needed an artistic of style and grace. (Photo courtesy of Pam Ouimet)

20 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly Items found on a writer's desk included books on etiquette, letter openers, and sealing devices. (Photo courtesy of Pam Ouimet) and useful accomplishments that adorn our age and country." According to Parson k Hand Book of Business and Social Forms, published in 1882, "Let- ters offhendship lose half their interest if written carelessly." The book also claimed, "Many a youth has been received or re- jected because of the manner of his letter. The form of it indicates his habits of neatness and order, or his want of them. Its tone is an index of his manners." The books on display at the Museum range fiom printing dates of 1850 to 19 10. Mr. Stickney said the books showed how to write letters for everything.

Other accessories on the Inkwells were made from a number of materials, including coloredglass writer's desk included seals and and wood. (Photo courtesy of Pam Ouimet) wafers for stamping the envelo~e or letter, a box fbr tke stamps, &d a brush to clean the nib, or tip of

21 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Qltarterly the pen You could also find ink filled to the exhibit information. nets, rope, sails and sacks were bottles and letter openers. sent to the mills to be turned into The language used in the letter, paper." "The earliest ink was a mixture the exclusion of errors, and the style of soot, clay, water and animal oils," of the writer's penmanship were Young women were taught at information provided by the Mu- highly important, and the station- finishing schools and academies seum stated. "Natural juices and ary upon which it was written was about the fine art of proper corre- dyes were also used. Later, it was of equal importance. spondence. If they were not able made from a combination of vin- attend such institutions, they could egar, iron salts, oak gall and gum Parson b Hand Book of Busi- learn much by reading The Young arabic or glue." ness and Social Forms stated, Lady b Book, a Manual of El- "One can always tell a lady by her egant Recreations, Exercises and But the ink wasn't of much use writing paper." Pursuits, which was published in without a decorative container in 1830. which to store it. "From wood and 'Tkrly writing surfaces included porcelain, to silver and cut glass, wax or clay tables, parchment (the The Museum display informa- &ells were hctional and deco- skin of a sheep or goat), rice pation also pointed out that, ''Particu- rative," the museum information per, papyrus and cloth," according lar attention was paid to the color, reported. "As the variety of mate- to information included in the texture and shape of the writing rials increased, so did the styles: fig- Museum's exhibit. paper, as well as the color of the ures of ladies, bears, birds, cabins seal used on the envelope. Good and cathedrals are just some of the "Until 1800, paper was rough, penmanship also showed consid- more unusual ones. unglazed and highly absorbent. Er- eration for the reader." rors could usually be scraped away "Paul Revere is known to have with a penknife or the side of a quill Once the proper paper had made inkwells of silver, and Louis pen," the display information con- been selected and the-wordsof eti- Comfort 'Tiffany created elaborate tinued. "Rag collecting for paper- quette chosen, the letter still wasn't desk sets (including inkwells), making became an important busi- quite ready to be sent offto the re- decorated with jewels," according ness. Old cloths, including fishing cipient. There was still the matter of properly sealing the document. "Before the use of envelopes, letters and other important documents were folded and sealed with wax," according to the Museum display information. "The wax was impressed with initials, a family crest or an ornamental design. Seals ensured privacy, an unbroken seal proved that the letter had not been opened en route to the recipient. Seals were also used to authenti- cate documents." Ifyou were the recipient of one of these hand-crafted master- pieces, chances are you may have saved your letter and even kept it in a fancy storage box to trea- sure. But obviously no letter could be Decorated stationery was as irriportant as the writing skills of the author: contrived without the use of a writ- (Photo courtesy of Pam Ouimet) ing instrument. Qdswere the most

22 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly A quill was once the most common writing instrument. (Photo courtesy of Pam Ouimet)

common writing instruments up until the end of the 19th century. "The best qdswere made fiom the first three fight feathers on the wings of geese, ducks, turkeys and other large birds," the Museum information reported. "After pluck- ing, the quill tips were placed in hot ash or hot sand. Fatty materials had to be removed and the quills thor- oughly dried. A sharp knife was used to carve the feather's shaft into a point, and the base of the shaft was slit. It was through this slit that ink was drawn up into the shaft. "Quills had to be re-cut quite often. The need for a more durable pen led to the development of metal tubes that slipped over the quills," the information continued. "With flexible steel processing and other inventions, steel pens began to re- place quills. By 1880, the English This Victorian drop-jbnt secretary The American Windsor writing city of Birmingham was the center was a popular writing desk. (Photo armchair in the fiont dates back to for the pen trade." courtesy of Pam Ouimet) 1826, and the one in the back dates from 1803-1818. (Photo courtesy of The location where the author Pam Ouimet) of any letter or invitation was cre-

23 St. Lawrence Corcnty Historical Association Q~carrerly ated was, and in many cases still is, and then upon receiving a letter in avital source of strength and inspi- my mailbox, it is added to my col- ration. lection. "A writer is someone who uses words, but he doesn't just want to say somethmg; he intends to write it down. First he has ideas. The ideas lead to the written words," the Museum information said. "The writer's desk has always been a central location where the act of writing occurs. Generally, desks are private places; one would need permission to sit at someone else's desk," the information continued. "Through the ages, desks have had a serious purpose. When someone sits at a desk, he or she intends to do some sort of work or purposeful activity, usually in solitude." After reading about this fabu- lous exhibit at the Potsdam Mu- seum, and hopehlly being able to get out and view it yourseIf, the next time you prepare to write someone a letter, you may reconsider exactly how you're going to do it. Will you sit comfortably in front of your keyboard and computer screen, or possibly a typewriter, or will you take your old stationary from it's ornate box, and find a quiet spot to pen the note in hand? I think everyone in today's society still enjoys going to the mailbox and being treated to a letter fiom a fiend. It seems that that note may be even more special and pre- cious if it is written in a personal fashion by them. I know I still find myself going back to dresser draw- ers and tucked away boxes to re- read letters I received from loved ones and friends over the years. These notations often hold extra special meanings because the dear one who wrote it to me is now de- ceased. I also find that every now

St. Lawrence Counp Historical Association Quarterly Rensselaer Falls Historian Passes Away (Reprinted from the St. Lawrence Plaindealer)

Rensselaer Falls - Graveside Oct. 9,1985. She married Samuel services for Dorothy E. Crane H. McAdoo on Aug. 2, 1996 at McAdoo, 84, of 12 Heuvelton St., her home in Rensselaer Falls with Rensselaer Falls, were held Sept. the Rev. Charles Thomas officiat- 3,200 1 at the Hillcrest Cemetery ing. Mr. McAdoo died May 20, in Heuvelton, with the Rev. Betty 1999. Masters officiating. Burial followed at the cemetery. After her marriage to Mr. Crane, .the couple lived on Long There were no calling hours. Island until 1945 when they moved Arrangements were with the Fox- to her present home in Rensselaer McLellan Funeral Home in Falls. Mrs. McAdoo was a corre- Ogdensburg. spondent for the Ogdensburg Journal, Canton Plaindealer and Mrs. McAdoo died July 26, Gouverneur Tribune Press for 10 200 1 at her home. years. She also published the St. Lawrence Valley News Letter for She is survived by four step- three years. She had been the his- daughters, Mrs. Michael (Mary torian in Rensselaer Falls for 26 Sue) Seymour of Canton, Mrs. years. Timothy (Betty) Haynes of Cheektowaga, Mrs. Charles Mrs. McAdoo was a member (Louise) Wagner of Rochester, and of the Florence B. Beattie Order Janet McAdoo of Rochester; five of the Eastern Star and past ma- step-sons, Richard Crane of tron, past president of the Salisbury, NC, David McAdoo of Rensselaer Falls LibraryAssocia- Ogdensburg, Christopher McAdoo tion, r member of the Kendrew and of Middlebury, Andrew McAdoo Rensselaer Falls Grange, a mem- ofPotsdam, and John McAdoo of ber ofthe St. Lawrence Historical Rensselaer Falls; 18 step-grand- Society, a trustee and past secre- children; and three cousins. tary of the Rensselaer Falls Cem- etery Association, a member of the Mrs. McAdoo was born Aug. North Country Local Historians 3 1,1916 in Potsdam, the daughter and Municipal Historians of New of Harry G and Vera Hinsdale York State. She also attended the Emery. She graduated from United Church of Rensselaer Falls, Rensselaer Falls High School in the Ladies Aid Society and the 1933, Potsdam State University in Kendrew Ladies Aid Society. 1936, and St. Lawrence Univer- sity in 1938 as mathematics major. Donations may be made in her She married Buritt L. Crane on Jan. memory to the Rensselaer Falls Li- 28, 1939 at the First Methodist brary, Restoration Fund at the Church in Astoria. Mr. Crane died United Church, Rensselaer Falls.

St. Lawrence Cotcnty Historical Association Qtrarterly Heritage Grist Mill Association 2nd Annual Heritage Day July 29, 2000 At Madrid Park

Professor Mawel k Medicine Show.

Wagon Ride.

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly SLCHA Sponsors Desserts at the Dessert Theatre for the Grasse River Players' Play, "Eat Your Heart Out." August 18, 2000 At Unitarian Universalist Church, Canton, NY

Dessert Theater.

Friendly conversation.

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Qrrarrerly Dessert Theater August 18, 2000

Wanda & Fritz Renick (walking in).

Richard & Peggy Mooers gar right).

St. Lawrence Cotinty Historical Association Quarterly 0 THE OLIVER LAW FIRM ..

N 31 5-265-9111 Cathleen E. O'Horo Roger B. Linden Toll Free: 1-800-371-9286 Francis P. Cappello Serving the North Country Since 1979 www.walshauction.com Michelle H. Ladouceur, Associate Northern Lights Bookshop Quality Used Books Specializing in non-fiction, 11 7 Main Street regional books Canton, NY 13617 We buy private libraries & collections

Tel.: 31 5-386-4595 Fax: 31 5-379-1240 95 Irish Settlement Rd. Pierrepont NY shop open Thurs. - Sat., Noon - 5 pm 3 1 5-379-9564 email: [email protected]

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Hours Red Barn Grand Opening SLCHA Office, SLCHA Archives & Holiday Open House & Silas Wright House

Open Tuesday - Saturday, Noon - 4:00 p.m. Friday Noon - 8 p.m. Friday, December 7,2001, (and by Appointment) Admission ~ees: 4 - 8 P.M.

Museum Free at the Silas Wright House, Archives Members - Free 3 East Main St., Canton Students - $2.50 General Public - $5.00

r Return Service Requested PO Box 8 U.S. Postage Paid Canton, NY 13617 Permit No. 21

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