Built on Beer

EXPLORE CINCINNATI AND NORTHERN KENTUCKY’S BREWING LEGACY FROM PAST TO PRESENT. by Cait Barnett 38 /// 2014 OFFICIAL VISITORS GUIDE Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky were, quite literally, built on beer. By the mid-1800s, 36 breweries were producing more than 30 million gallons of beer and digging underground lagering cellars and tunnels. One batch of lager at a time, Cincinnati’s so-called beer barons turned humble brewing operations into beer-making empires that prospered until Prohibition forced them all to close. Few reopened, and none survived consecutively into the 21st cen- Ctury (after operating for 114 years, Hudepohl Brewing Company closed in 1999). Now, in just ! ve years, the number of breweries in Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky has more than tripled. Craft breweries are on the rise across the country, but here it’s more than a trend. It’s a tradition that dates back more than 200 years. From touring original brewery buildings and underground tunnels to tasting freshly made beer (and seeing the process), there are countless ways to explore the region’s brewing past and present. THE FIRST BREWERY of German immigrants by the mid-1800s. It’s here where the ! rst German-owned Twenty-! ve years after the city was set- brewery opened in 1829, with more follow- tled, Englishman Davis Embree opened Cincinnati’s ! rst commercial brewery on ing shortly after. Ten years later, a revolu- the banks of the Ohio River in 1812. He tion that started back home in Deutsch- made classic porters and ales that never land took hold and changed everything. quite got popular, and the brewery closed For centuries, beer was made using in 1825. Shortly after, waves of German yeast strains that ferment at the top of the immigrants started establishing roots a tank, resulting in what we know as ales. In few miles north in a neighborhood that the late 1830s, a new kind of yeast strain would become the heart of the region’s that fermented on the bottom was devel- brewing industry. oped in Europe. It took longer and had to be chilled at lower temperatures, but the OVER-THE-RHINE result was a crisper, mellower beer called BREWERY DISTRICT lager, from the German lagern, “to store.” Located north of the Cincinnati stretch of The new brew quickly caught on in the the Miami Erie canal (now Central Park- states, especially around these parts. By way), Over-the-Rhine was home to throngs 1850, lager was more than the preferred CINCINNATIUSA.COM \\\ 39 drink of German immigrants in consumed in Cincinnati that in BREWING IN Over-the-Rhine; it was all of Cin- 1890 it was dubbed the “Beer NORTHERN KENTUCKY cinnati’s beer of choice. Capital of the World.” George Wiedemann worked at The vast majority of Cincin- THE GOLDEN AGE OF BEER the John Kauffman Brewing Com- nati’s pre-Prohibition breweries pany in Over-the-Rhine for 15 In 1860, as many as 36 brew- were in Over-the-Rhine, clus- years before moving across the eries operated in Cincinnati. tered together along McMicken river in 1870 to start his name- By 1889, a fewer number of Avenue and the canal. From sake venture in Newport. George breweries (23) produced even 1875–1900, 17 operated in Wiedemann Brewing Co. was more beer, collectively brewing Over-the-Rhine and the West Kentucky’s largest beer producer 35,700,000 gallons of suds End. While this historically Ger- in 1890, followed closely by Ba- drunk the world over (Christian man area boasted the most varian Brewing Company in near- Moerlein Brewing Company ex- breweries per capita, it wasn’t by Covington. The original Bavar- ported beer as far as South the only neighborhood where ian Brewery is the only thing that America and Europe). In fact, the air smelled of liquid bread remains of Northern Kentucky’s so much beer was made and and the beer !owed freely. brewing heritage. You can "nd 40 /// 2014 OFFICIAL VISITORS GUIDE Opposite page, left and center: Visitors explore the historic, non-operational Clyffside Brewery on a Cincinnati Brewery Tour. This page, top and left: Jackson Brewery’s expansive cellars; the original Bavarian Brewing Company in Covington. the faded yellow building, com- advertisements. That’s not to say plete with original brickwork, at the expansive brewing complexes 528 W. 12th St. in Covington. weren’t lavish in real life. In 1893, George Wiedemann hired Cincin- PRE-PROHIBITION nati architects Samuel Hannaford BREWERY ARCHITECTURE and Sons (of Music Hall fame) to Back in Over-the-Rhine, a more construct a new bottling facility. intact historic brewing district as- The building, since torn down, tounds with its architectural prow- once towered majestically over ess. As it turns out, Cincinnati’s Sixth and Columbia Streets in brewing industry was as much Newport. about beer as it was about world- The most intact building re- class architecture. Brewery build- maining is the old Felsenbrau- ings were considered extensions Clyffside Brewery (1887), one of of the beer, and architectural de- the stops on a Cincinnati Brewery Photographs (left, center and top right) by GaryKessler by right) top and center (left, Photographs tails were often exaggerated in Tour (cincinnatibrewerytours.com). CINCINNATIUSA.COM \\\ 41 THE GREAT REVIVAL Cincinnati and Northern Ken- tucky’s past is now its present, just waiting to be explored. On a brewery tour in Over-the-Rhine, see one of the largest collec- tions of pre-Prohibition brewery architecture. Have a pint in the former Kauffman malt house, now home to the taproom of The Moerlein Lager House, situated along the river adjacent to The Banks, is the Christian Moerlein Brewing a restaurant and brewery that serves Christian Moerlein’s award-winning craft Company, the latest project by beers. Guests can even take a 75-minute tour of the facility with a brewer. modern-day beer baron Greg Hardman. Given the region’s storied brewing history, collect- From across the street, gaze at Rhine, Newport and Covington ing vintage beer memorabilia, the meticulously carved cherubs that brewery workers used to or breweriana, is also a popular and six-point brewer’s star on access lagering cellars and hobby here. So much so that the roof. Inside, notice the beer transport goods between build- there’s a Queen City Chapter barrels etched into the stair ings were all but forgotten. Then of the Brewer’s Collectibles posts, and gilded steel beams in 2008, urban explorers came Club of America, which annually that sparkle in the natural day- across original brewery blue- hosts shows open to the public light. Ascend to the top-! oor prints, curiosity led to jack ham- (queencitychapter.com). grain room and you’ll " nd pulleys mering, and the tunnels were re- There’s always a way to drink caked with decades of rust hang- discovered. More continue to be in the area’s brewing history, with ing from the ceiling and a dusty uncovered today. more coming soon. Jon Newber- metal grain bin in the ! oor. Con- You can see the curious un- ry recently relaunched the Wi- sidering it’s been abandoned off derworld for yourself on a Cincin- edemann brand and has plans and on for a few decades now, nati Brewery Tour. One tour ends to open a taproom in Newport. A this building is in pretty remark- in a cellar beneath the original Brewing Heritage Trail, brewery/ able shape. What lies beneath is Kauffman Brewery malt house. theatre hybrid called Grayscale, in even better shape. Built in 1860, Kauffman grew to and Taft’s Ale House—a three- be the fourth largest brewery in story brewpub inside a former Cincinnati, but never reopened church—are also in the works DIGGING UP THE PAST after Prohibition. Now, that cellar in Over-the-Rhine. Plus, there’s a Somewhere between Prohibition, is " nally getting a new lease on growing list of breweries where two world wars and urban sprawl, life, as are other historic brewing you can take tours and clink the tunnels beneath Over-the- structures and brands. pints. Q 42 /// 2014 OFFICIAL VISITORS GUIDE Christian Moerlein nati’s Craft Beer Oktoberfest is held Brewing Company here in October, and Listermann also Sample 12 Moerlein beers at this spa- makes and kegs beer for the relaunched cious beer hall, featuring original brick Wiedemann’s brand. AS CINCINNATI USA archways. Visit for the annual Bockfest, 1621 Dana Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio, a celebration in early March, and stay 513-731-1130, listermannbrewing.com CONTINUES TO RE- close—a rooftop beer garden and underground brewing heritage museum MadTree Brewing Company CONNECT WITH ITS are coming soon. Ohio’s " rst modern brewery to can its PAST, TAPROOMS 1621 Moore St., Cincinnati, Ohio, craft beers is also a favorite local haunt 513-827-6025, christianmoerlein.com where thirsty visitors can drink straight ABOUND WHERE YOU from the source, as the brew house and Ei8ht Ball Brewing taproom are one in the same. CAN DRINK IN THE The region’s newest brewery and 5164 Kennedy Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio, taproom has 42 beers on draught, 513-836-8733, madtreebrewing.com REGION’S STORIED from microbrews made on site to rare BREWING HERITAGE, imports. Build your own tasting ! ights Mt. Carmel Brewing Company or let Beer Ambassador James ‘Peanut’ Mike Dewey started home-brewing in INCLUDING (BUT NOT Kahles pick for you (his beard doesn’t his 1924 farmhouse in 2001. Now it’s a LIMITED TO) THESE lie; he knows his suds). full-! edged brewery focusing on classic Inside The Party Source, 18 Distillery Way, handcrafted ales. Take a tour or stop NINE SPOTS.

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