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Zfwtvol. 9 No. 3 (2017) 269-288
ZfWT Vol. 9 No. 3 (2017) 269-288 FEMINIST READING OF GOTHIC SUBCULTURE: EMPOWERMENT, LIBERATION, REAPPROPRIATION Mikhail PUSHKIN∗ Abstract: Shifting in and out of public eye ever since its original appearance in the 1980ies, Gothic subculture, music and aesthetics in their impressive variety have become a prominent established element in global media, art and culture. However, understanding of their relation to female gender and expression of femininity remains ambiguous, strongly influenced by stereotypes. Current research critically analyses various distinct types of Gothic subculture from feminist angle, and positively identifies its environment as female-friendly and empowering despite and even with the help of its strongly sexualized aesthetics. Although visually geared towards the male gaze, Gothic subcultural environment enables women to harness, rather than repress the power of attraction generated by such aesthetics. Key words: Subculture, Feminism, Gothic. INTRODUCTION Without a doubt, Gothic subculture is a much-tattered subject, being at the centre of both popular mass media with its gossip, consumerism and commercialization, as well as academia with diverse papers debasing, pigeonholing and even defending the subculture. Furthermore, even within the defined, feminist, angle, a thorough analysis of Gothic subculture would require a volume of doctoral dissertation to give the topic justice. This leaves one in a position of either summarizing and reiterating earlier research (a useful endeavour, however, bringing no fresh insight), or striving for a kind of fresh look made possible by the ever-changing eclectic ambivalent nature of the subculture. Current research takes the middle ground approach: touching upon earlier research only where relevant, providing a very general, yet necessary outlook on the contemporary Gothic subculture in its diversity, so as to elucidate its more relevant elements whilst focusing on the ways in which it empowers women. -
Clothing Fantasies: a Case Study Analysis Into the Recontextualization and Translation of Subcultural Style
Clothing fantasies: A case study analysis into the recontextualization and translation of subcultural style by Devan Prithipaul B.A., Concordia University, 2019 Extended Essay Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Master of Arts in the School of Communication (Dual Degree Program in Global Communication) Faculty of Art, Communication and Technology © Devan Prithipaul 2020 SIMON FRASER UNIVERSITY Summer 2020 Copyright in this work rests with the author. Please ensure that any reproduction or re-use is done in accordance with the relevant national copyright legislation. Approval Name: Devan Prithipaul Degree: Master of Arts Title: Clothing fantasies: A case study analysis into the recontextualization and translation of subcultural style Program Director: Katherine Reilly Sun-Ha Hong Senior Supervisor Assistant Professor ____________________ Katherine Reilly Program Director Associate Professor ____________________ Date Approved: August 31, 2020 ii Abstract Although the study of subcultures within a Cultural Studies framework is not necessarily new, what this research studies is the process of translation and recontextualization that occurs within the transnational migration of a subculture. This research takes the instance of punk subculture in Japan as a case study for examining how this subculture was translated from its original context in the U.K. The frameworks which are used to analyze this case study are a hybrid of Gramscian hegemony and Lacanian psychoanalysis. The theoretical applications for this research are the study of subcultural migration and the processes of translation and recontextualization. Keywords: subculture; Cultural Studies; psychoanalysis; hegemony; fashion communication; popular communication iii Dedication Glory to God alone. iv Acknowledgements “Ideas come from pre-existing ideas” was the first phrase I heard in a university classroom, and this statement is ever more resonant when acknowledging those individuals who have led me to this stage in my academic journey. -
Diploma in Fashion Design 2016.Pdf
CURRICULUM DIPLOMA Fashion Design (Three Years Program - Semester System) Council for Technical Education and Vocational Training Curriculum Development Division Sanothimi, Bhaktapur 2016 Table of Contents Introduction: ..................................................................................................................... IV Course Title: ..................................................................................................................... IV Aim: ................................................................................................................................. IV Objectives: ........................................................................................................................ IV Target Location: ............................................................................................................... IV Group Size: ....................................................................................................................... IV Entry Criteria: .................................................................................................................... V Medium of Instruction: ...................................................................................................... V Course Duration:................................................................................................................ V Pattern of Attendance:........................................................................................................ V Teacher and Student -
Illuminating the Darkness: the Naturalistic Evolution of Gothicism in the Nineteenth-Century British Novel and Visual Art
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research: Department of English English, Department of 8-2013 Illuminating the Darkness: The Naturalistic Evolution of Gothicism in the Nineteenth-Century British Novel and Visual Art Cameron Dodworth University of Nebraska-Lincoln Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/englishdiss Part of the Literature in English, British Isles Commons Dodworth, Cameron, "Illuminating the Darkness: The Naturalistic Evolution of Gothicism in the Nineteenth- Century British Novel and Visual Art" (2013). Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research: Department of English. 79. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/englishdiss/79 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the English, Department of at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research: Department of English by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. ILLUMINATING THE DARKNESS: THE NATURALISTIC EVOLUTION OF GOTHICISM IN THE NINETEENTH- CENTURY BRITISH NOVEL AND VISUAL ART by Cameron Dodworth A DISSERTATION Presented to the Faculty of The Graduate College at the University of Nebraska In Partial Fulfillment of Requirements For the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy Major: English (Nineteenth-Century Studies) Under the Supervision of Professor Laura M. White Lincoln, Nebraska August, 2013 ILLUMINATING THE DARKNESS: THE NATURALISTIC EVOLUTION OF GOTHICISM IN THE NINETEENTH- CENTURY BRITISH NOVEL AND VISUAL ART Cameron Dodworth, Ph.D. University of Nebraska, 2013 Adviser: Laura White The British Gothic novel reached a level of very high popularity in the literary market of the late 1700s and the first two decades of the 1800s, but after that point in time the popularity of these types of publications dipped significantly. -
Fashion Talks… Back Issues As of November 9, 2020 *For Actual Stock, Please Refer to “List of Our Current Stock”
Fashion Talks… Back Issues As of November 9, 2020 *For actual stock, please refer to “List of our current stock”. Fashion Talks... SPRING 2015 / VOL. 1[underwear] ■Pleasure and Anxiety over a Piece of Cloth by Naoyuki KINOSHITA ■Reception of Western-style Underwear in the Taisho and Early Showa Period by Mihoko AOKI ■Eyes over Underwear in the Western History by Shigeru KASHIMA ■Fashion through the KCI Collection: Underwear from 18th Century to 1920s ■Virility, Enhancement and Men's Underwear by Shaun COLE ■NEW ACQUISITIONS [EXHIBITION REVIEWS] □Wardrobe Momories by Mizuki TSUJI □Hippie Chic / Dufy / Bishojo: Young Pretty Girls in Art History / Ages of Sarasa / Spirit of Life in the North of Japan □World of Corset at the KCI Gallery Fashion Talks... AUTUMN 2015 / VOL. 2[underwear 2] ■Public Underwear and Private Underwear by Yoshiko TOKUI ■About so-called Chirarism by Syoichi INOUE ■Pass by man and woman and panty by Chizuko UENO ■Fashion through the KCI Collection 2 ■NEW ACQUISITIONS ■Craze and Shame: Rubber Clothing during the Nineteenth Century in Paris, London, and New York City by Manuel CHARPY [EXHIBITION REVIEWS] Jeanne Lanvin/Déboutonner la mode Fashion Talks... SPRING 2016 / VOL. 3[economy 1] ■An establishment process and the present of the department store in Europe by Seiichi KITAYAMA ■The fashion industry prehistory of mode city Paris by Nao TSUNODA ■Fashion through the KCI Collection 3 ■The modernization of consumption and The Initial department store in Japan by Yuki JINNO ■The formation of the apparel industry in Japan by Akihiro KINOSHITA ■NEW ACQUISITIONS [EXHIBITION REVIEWS] Jean Paul Gaultier/Dries Van Noten. -
Modern Japanese Fashion
Loretta Gray Social Studies/English Language Arts Grades 6, 7, 8 Section 5: Modern Japanese Fashion Purpose: Students will be introduced to traditional and contemporary Japanese fashion; and explore Japan and Japanese street fashion to become aware of popular examples of Japanese street fashion trends. There will be discussions on contemporary Japanese fashion and its meaning to the younger generation in Japan (e.g. cosplay, youth culture and high fashion culture). Students will be able to: Identify/ locate/color/label Japan on a world map/globe Describe clothing/garments Draw street fashion garments Write descriptive summaries Create fashion scrapbooks Duration: Two 40 minute class periods (Two-day focus) Materials: World Map or Globe (teacher) Map of Japan (students) Japan and Japanese Street Fashion KWL graphic organizer (attached) Colored pencils Pencils Notebook paper Double pocket 3-ring folders Glue Scissors White paper Computer w/Internet access Essential Questions (Two-Day Focus) What do you know about Japan? What do you want to know? What have you learned? What continent is Japan located on? Where is Japan? What types of clothes are popular? Who wears the styles? Introduction to the History/Culture of Japan: Japanese Fashion When talking about fashion in Japan it is just impossible not to acknowledge the fact that the Japanese have an incredible sense of style. Fashion plays a huge role in the lives of the Japanese because they have a special outlook towards clothing. In Japan, fashion is considered as a way to express yourself, set your own style, and show others that you are aware of the newest trends. -
Yale Fashion Catalogue 2008
Fashion Brochure 2008:Fashion 2008 22/10/08 15:25 Page 6 fashion from yale Fashion Brochure 2008:Fashion 2008 22/10/08 15:25 Page 7 fashionnow Gothic Dark Glamour Valerie Steele and Jennifer Park 2008 192pp. 100 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-13694-4 £19.99* From its origins in the eighteenth-century literature of terror to its contemporary manifestations in vampire fiction, cinema and art, the gothic has embraced the powers of horror and the erotic macabre. ‘Gothic’ is an epithet with a strange history—evoking images of death, destruction and decay. Ironically, its negative connotations have made the gothic an ideal symbol of rebellion for a wide range of cultural outsiders. Popularly associated with black-clad teenagers and rock musicians, gothic fashion encompasses not only subcultural styles (from old- school goth to cyber-goth and beyond) but also high fashion by such designers as Alexander McQueen, John Galliano of Christian Dior, Rick Owens, Olivier Theyskens and Yohji Yamamoto. As the text and lavish illustrations in this book suggest, gothic fashion has deep cultural roots that give it an enduring potency. Published in association with The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology Superheroes Fashion and Fantasy Andrew Bolton With an essay by Michael Chabon 2008 160pp. 300 colour illus. Hb ISBN 978-0-300-13670-8 £30.00* From Wonder Woman’s satin stars and golden bracelets to Batman’s brooding cape and mask, the style of superheroes’ dress has influenced both street wear and high fashion. This richly illustrated book explores how radical couture, avant-garde sportswear and state-of-the-art military garments—as seen through the lens of the superhero—can be metaphors for sex, power and politics. -
The Art of Impression Management in the Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community
Georgia State University ScholarWorks @ Georgia State University Anthropology Theses Department of Anthropology 12-17-2014 The Fashion of Frill: The Art of Impression Management in the Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community Chancy J. Gatlin [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarworks.gsu.edu/anthro_theses Recommended Citation Gatlin, Chancy J., "The Fashion of Frill: The Art of Impression Management in the Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community." Thesis, Georgia State University, 2014. https://scholarworks.gsu.edu/anthro_theses/87 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Department of Anthropology at ScholarWorks @ Georgia State University. It has been accepted for inclusion in Anthropology Theses by an authorized administrator of ScholarWorks @ Georgia State University. For more information, please contact [email protected]. THE FASHION OF FRILL: THE ART OF IMPRESSION MANAGEMENT IN THE ATLANTA LOLITA AND JAPANESE STREET FASHION COMMUNITY by CHANCY J. GATLIN Under the Direction of Emanuela Guano, PhD ABSTRACT The Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community is a multifaceted fashion community that developed in the early 2000s. The majority of the members wear Lolita fashion which is a fusion of Victorian era dress, Rococo costume, and various Japanese street fashions. Lolita fashion developed on the streets of Tokyo Japan in the 1990s and has since spread across the world. The Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community heavily relies on the building and maintenance of impressions by its members. In this thesis, I analyze face-to-face and virtual community organization, fashion, and photography to illustrate how members of the community build their impressions, how they are maintained, or how they are threatened. -
An Introduction to Japan's Contemporary Youth Apparel Market
An Introduction to Japan’s Contemporary Page 1 of 10 Youth Apparel Market Drafted by: Intern Mai Yoshioka Edited by: Specialist Yoshiko Okamoto October 2015 Overview of Japan's Youth Apparel Market Introduction Japan is famous for being the land of eccentric fashion. While most may think of Harajuku Style fashion introduced by Gwen Stefani’s Harajuku Girls, many trends dominate Japan’s fashion scene. In the mid 1990’s young women started frequenting tanning salons to excessively tan themselves, and dressed themselves in neon pink and yellow adorned with white hair and excessive make-up. In the early 90’s, young women dressed in bodycon style, standing for “body conscious clothing.” These form-fitting dresses were paired with heels and feather fans when enjoying nightlife. Other fashion styles include Mori-kei (mythical emerging from forest attire), Gothic/Sweet/Punk Lolita styles, Rockabilly (those who dress like 50’s rockers), Dekora (bright colored casual outfits with cute accessories), gyaru (girly glam style with short skirts, bright colors), and Visual-Kei (a style influenced by rock and punk with lots of leather and bulky silver accessories). Anything can go in Japan in regards to fashion. Some note that years of wearing uniforms and strict rules for workplace attire invite individuals to express their creativity on weekends and after working hours. Many do so by enjoying creative fashion styles. Most students do not get to wear clothes of their choice until college, and therefore many refer to college as a “fashion debut.” Of course, a majority of the population does stick to fashion trends that are not so different from the rest of the world-- but with an extra edge of what the Japanese call kawaii or cute. -
Post-Millennial Gothic: Comedy, Romance and the Rise of Happy Gothic
139 Post-Millennial Gothic: Comedy, Romance and the Rise of Happy Gothic Catherine Spooner Sandra Mills, University of Hull London: Bloomsbury, 2017 ISBN: 9781441101211, 213pp. £21.99 Don’t judge a book by its cover, or so the old adage goes; when it comes to Catherine Spooner’s most recent publication, Post-Millennial Gothic: Comedy, Romance and the Rise of Happy Gothic, though, it is hard not to. The eye-catching cover, with whimsically macabre illustrations created by artist Alice Marwick, features an array of familiar contemporary Gothic figures; the Twilight (2008-2012) saga’s Edward and Bella, Tim Burton’s Mad Hatter, and The Mighty Boosh (2003-2007) logo all feature alongside more traditional iconography of the genre: bats, dolls, ravens, roses, and skulls. Spooner is a respected authority on the Gothic and has, over the years, published extensively on the genre across two monographs: Fashioning Gothic Bodies (2004) and Contemporary Gothic (2006), countless chapters, articles, edited collections, and exhibition catalogues. Post-Millennial Gothic is a welcome addition to this growing collection. Post-Millennial Gothic charts the pervasive spread of the Gothic in post-millennial culture, showing that contemporary Gothic is often humorous, romantic, and increasingly, as Spooner deftly demonstrates, happy. Spooner surveys an eclectically comprehensive mix of narratives from iconic Gothic texts: Frankenstein (1818), Wuthering Heights (1847), Dracula (1897); to more recent cult films: The Breakfast Club (1985), The Lost Boys (1987), Edward Scissorhands (1990); serialized sitcoms: The IT Crowd (2006-2013), The Big Bang Theory (2007-), Being Human (2011-2014); supernatural series: Buffy the Vampire Slayer (1996- 2003), Supernatural (2005-), True Blood (2008-2014); and makeover shows: Grand Designs (1999-), Queer Eye for the Straight Guy (2003-2007), Snog Marry Avoid (2008-2013). -
101 CC1 Concepts of Fashion
CONCEPT OF FASHION BFA(F)- 101 CC1 Directorate of Distance Education SWAMI VIVEKANAND SUBHARTI UNIVERSITY MEERUT 250005 UTTAR PRADESH SIM MOUDLE DEVELOPED BY: Reviewed by the study Material Assessment Committed Comprising: 1. Dr. N.K.Ahuja, Vice Chancellor Copyright © Publishers Grid No part of this publication which is material protected by this copyright notice may be reproduce or transmitted or utilized or store in any form or by any means now know or here in after invented, electronic, digital or mechanical. Including, photocopying, scanning, recording or by any informa- tion storage or retrieval system, without prior permission from the publisher. Information contained in this book has been published by Publishers Grid and Publishers. and has been obtained by its author from sources believed to be reliable and are correct to the best of their knowledge. However, the publisher and author shall in no event be liable for any errors, omission or damages arising out of this information and specially disclaim and implied warranties or merchantability or fitness for any particular use. Published by: Publishers Grid 4857/24, Ansari Road, Darya ganj, New Delhi-110002. Tel: 9899459633, 7982859204 E-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Printed by: A3 Digital Press Edition : 2021 CONTENTS 1. Introduction to Fashion 5-47 2. Fashion Forecasting 48-69 3. Theories of Fashion, Factors Affecting Fashion 70-96 4. Components of Fashion 97-112 5. Principle of Fashion and Fashion Cycle 113-128 6. Fashion Centres in the World 129-154 7. Study of the Renowned Fashion Designers 155-191 8. Careers in Fashion and Apparel Industry 192-217 9. -
Page 129 EVENTS REVIEW the Dark Glamour Of
Page 129 EVENTS REVIEW The D ark Glamour o f NeoVictorian Gothic Gothic: Dark Glamour Exhibit, curated by Valerie Steele New York Fashion Institute of Technology, 5 September 2008 21 February 2009 “Your mind is in disturbia” sang the reigning princess of R&B music, Rihanna, as she opened the 2008 MTV Video Music Awards on September 7th. Clothed in highfashion black leather and feather bondage gear, she and an entourage of backup dancers miming zombies gyrated around the stage as she asked seductively, “Am I scaring you tonight?” If the performance, which resurrected Michael Jacksons’s Thriller with a touch of S&M, frightened the audience it was with no more than a pleasantly titillating thrill as Rihanna’s macabre Gothicinspired musical opening effectively upstaged the return of Britney Spears and kept more than 8.4 million viewers riveted to the screen. MTV, perennial source of all things trendy, used its opening entertainment as a clever marketing tool, for Rihanna’s performance responded to the Gothic vampire craze present in contemporary youth culture, particularly the culture of adolescent girls. The popularity of Stephanie Meyer’s Twilight series of fantasy novels has positioned the author as the J.K. Rowling of “tweens” and teens. Twilight, first book in the series, sold over 1.5 million copies, and the final installment, Breaking Dawn , sold 1.3 million within 24 hours of its release. Not coincidentally, a movie adaptation of Twilight opens in November. Even HBO, a network with programming geared more toward adults, has staked (pun intended) its claim to vampire narratives, premiering this Fall its drama True Blood , based on a series of Southern vampire mysteries by Charlaine Harris.