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DARK GLAMOUR and DESIRE: an EXPLORATORY LOOK at PSYCHOANALYSIS and the WORK of ALEXANDER MCQUEEN by Emily Kate Risley B.Sc. Reta

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DARK GLAMOUR and DESIRE: an EXPLORATORY LOOK at PSYCHOANALYSIS and the WORK of ALEXANDER MCQUEEN by Emily Kate Risley B.Sc. Reta DARK GLAMOUR AND DESIRE: AN EXPLORATORY LOOK AT PSYCHOANALYSIS AND THE WORK OF ALEXANDER MCQUEEN By Emily Kate Risley B.Sc. Retail Marketing Johnson & Wales University, Providence, Rhode Island 2010 A Master’s Research Project presented to Ryerson University In partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts in the Program of Fashion Toronto, Ontario, Canada, 2014 © (Emily Kate Risley) 2014 AUTHOR’S DECLARATION FOR ELECTRONIC SUBMISSION OF A MRP I hereby declare that I am the sole author of this MRP. This is a true copy of the MRP, including any required final revisions. I authorize Ryerson University to lend this MRP to other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. I further authorize Ryerson University to reproduce this MRP by photocopying or by other means, in total or in part, at the request of other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. I understand that my MRP may be made electronically available to the public. ii Abstract Dark Glamour and Desire: An Exploratory Look at Psychoanalysis and the Work of Alexander McQueen The relationship between psychoanalysis and fashion is relatively new; therefore, this study aimed to identify how psychoanalytic theory, specifically Freud’s The Uncanny and Lacan’s theories of desire relate to McQueen’s collections as well as themes of Goth and Fetish. This case study used a qualitative approach as its methodology and both content and semiotic analyses of visuals to examine study-related topics. Lacan’s theories of desire were applied to analyze the role of fetish, sexuality, femininity, jouissance, and women as objet a in the collection Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious and portions of Horn of Plenty. Freud’s The Uncanny and Goth speak to feelings of fear and horror were therefore ideal for an analysis of Elizabeth Howe 1692 and Horn of Plenty. A deeper understanding of psychoanalysis and fashion was found by connecting the theories to the work of Alexander McQueen. iii Table of Contents Page Author’s Declaration............................................................................................. ii Abstract................................................................................................................. iii List of Tables ........................................................................................................ vi CHAPTER ONE: INTRODUCTION................................................................... 1 CHAPTER TWO: LITERATURE REVIEW....................................................... 4 Psychoanalysis............................................................................................. 4 Sigmund Freud ............................................................................................ 6 Jacques Lacan.............................................................................................. 8 Psychoanalysis of Fashion........................................................................... 10 Alexander McQueen.................................................................................... 12 Gothic Theme .............................................................................................. 15 Fetish Theme ............................................................................................... 17 Material Culture........................................................................................... 19 Conclusion................................................................................................... 21 CHAPTER THREE: METHODOLOGY AND PROCEDURES......................... 23 Methodological Approach........................................................................... 23 Case Study................................................................................................... 25 Research Question.............................................................................. 25 Unit of Analysis ................................................................................ 25 Linking Data Propositions ................................................................. 25 Analyzing and Interpreting a Study’s Findings ................................. 25 Constructing Validity .................................................................................. 26 Analyzed Theorists...................................................................................... 26 Sigmund Freud................................................................................... 26 Jacques Lacan .................................................................................... 27 Themes Analyzed ........................................................................................ 27 Gothic Theme Parameters and Relevance ......................................... 28 Fetish Theme Parameters and Relevance........................................... 28 Content/Visual Analysis.............................................................................. 29 Principal Data Sources ................................................................................ 32 Principal Literary Documents ............................................................ 32 Principal High Fashion Online Website............................................. 32 Principal Video Source ...................................................................... 33 Comparison of Data Sources....................................................................... 33 Purposeful Sampling ................................................................................... 33 Methodological Assumptions...................................................................... 34 Methodological Limitations ........................................................................ 34 Establishing Credibility............................................................................... 34 Composition of Findings ............................................................................. 35 Chapter Summary........................................................................................ 35 iv CHAPTER FOUR: RESULTS AND DISCUSSION........................................... 36 Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious—Fall 2002 ............................................ 36 In Memory of Elizabeth Howe 1692—Fall 2007........................................ 44 Horn of Plenty—Fall 2009 .......................................................................... 52 CHAPTER FIVE: CONCLUSION....................................................................... 61 Summary of Findings .................................................................................. 61 Implications and Recommendations for Future Research........................... 62 References............................................................................................................. 70 Sources for Figures ............................................................................................... 75 v List of Tables Table Page 1: Goth and Fetish Symbols.................................................................................. vi 1 CHAPTER ONE: INTRODUCTION This study analyzes three fashion collections of designer Alexander McQueen from a psychoanalytic lens, based specifically on Sigmund Freud’s theories surrounding “The Uncanny” and Jacques Lacan’s theories surrounding desire. The collections were chosen due to their thematic representations of dark glamour and desire, particularly Goth and Fetish. Psychoanalysis has been influential in developing several creative fields including art theory and literature, however little text surrounds fashion from a psychoanalytic lens. It is for this reason this study explores one of fashion’s most admired and controversial designers who exemplified avant-garde clothing signifying the Goth and Fetish themes. Chapter 2 provides a critical analysis and review of the relevant literature found on the subjects considered pertinent to the study. Exploring several subjects and establishing a general understanding of each was deemed important in order to effectively link the designer’s collections to psychoanalytic theories. The origin of psychoanalysis, the work of Sigmund Freud and Jacques Lacan including theories used in this study, as well as the relatively new relationship of Psychoanalysis and Fashion were considered important subject matter. Furthermore, Alexander McQueen, his work as fashion designer, and his views on women and sexuality were also considered vital topics to be reviewed. Lastly, literature concerned with Goth and Fetish themes as well as material culture and the symbolic value people place on fashion were also analyzed. Chapter 3 presents the methodology and procedures utilized for this study. A qualitative approach was utilized to explore the relationship between psychoanalysis and the work of Alexander McQueen. As this study is based on a relatively new phenomenon 2 and actual fashion collections, case study was regarded as an ideal methodology for this project. The research incorporated several data-gathering procedures, including content and visual analysis. Conducting an analysis of images was important to this study as visual interpretations of runway presentations and photographs were relied on. Photographs of the collections were examined and semiotic analysis of the visuals was used to interpret symbols and code into themes. Images were decoded and the meanings of particular items in the image were treated as signs. Relational
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