On Ganghwado Island
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VOLUME 10 NO. 4 JUNE 24 – JULY 7, 2021 FREE SUBMIT STORIES TO: [email protected] KOREA.STRIPES.COM FACEBOOK.COM/STRIPESPACIFIC INSIDE INFO SINHODEUNG JANGJAKGUI SERVES DELICIOUS CHICKEN PAGE 6 BINGSU KOREA’S REFRESHING SUMMER DELIGHT! PAGE 8 Photos curtesy of Ganghwa Seaside Resort Photos curtesy of Ganghwa 5 REASONS TO VISIT Thrill ride GANGNEUNG PAGE 11 12-13 Pages on Ganghwado Island Photo by ChiHon Kim, Stripes Korea Courtesy photo H u SpecialSi pullout m inside! h p a h s re th ys’ P t a e ee ge b n s 4 e -5 at! 2 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JUNE 24 − JULY 7, 2021 Military spouses prepared for almost anything but this Max D. Lederer Jr. s my car wound along rats (one flattened and display- Publisher Lexington Street ing hideous fangs) among scat- Lt. Col. Michael Kerschbaum A through the neat rows The Meat and tered garbage I side-stepped in Commander of tidy duplexes in Coddington Brooklyn. Michael Ryan Chief of Staff Cove military housing commu- Should I trust our daughter to Chris Verigan nity near Naval Station Newport, Potatoes of Life live in a place that reduced me Engagement Director R.I., I breathed a long sigh of to a withering pantywaist? Had Marie Woods relief. I’d taken this shortcut to Publishing and Media Design Director military life really “toughened Home Depot many times before, Chris Carlson Lisa Smith Molinari me up”? Did I take safety, cama- Publishing and Media Design Manager but today it felt like therapy — a raderie and order for granted af- Eric Lee comforting and familiar routine. ter 23 years of living in military Advertising and Circulation Manager I had just returned from a communities? Does our daugh- Enrique “Rick” W. Villanueva Jr. two-day apartment-hunting trip all the other cities we’d visited and if you were lucky to get a Korea Area Manager ter have the resilience to suc- to New York City with our daugh- as a military family? As we’d window, a lightless view of a Jinsun Song ceed in New York City? Operations Manager ter, Anna, who was moving there done before, we’d figure out the brick wall. Short answers: Yes, yes, yes Kentaro Shimura to start her career. In 48 hours, subway, find our bearings, hit The next day, we crossed the and yes. Production Manager we walked 16 miles, climbed 40 major landmarks and sample Williamsburg Bridge, believing While military life forces Rie Miyoshi flights of stairs and toured more indigenous cuisine. Easy peasy! we’d find charming apartments Engagement Manager military spouses out of comfort than 20 apartments. I was sore, Walking from our Midtown among matcha bars and organ- Denisse Rauda zones, it also coddles us with Publishing and Media Design Editor tired and somewhat troubled by hotel the first morning, I was ic grocers. Our tour began at a secure housing, safe neighbor- Publishing and Media Design Writers the whirlwind trip. too distracted by interesting bakery with massive wedges of hoods and close-knit communi- ChiHon Kim As a “seasoned” military Shoji Kudaka architecture, charming parks, sticky, nutty baklava, but then ties. Our children, on the other Takahiro Takiguchi spouse who moved 11 times in gargantuan billboards, ethnic we saw six apartments, each hand, learn from a young age Layout Designers 23 years, lived six years over- restaurants and fascinating one with its own appalling deal- Mamoru Inoue to adapt to new and sometimes Yukiyo Oda seas and traveled extensively, characters to notice the city’s breaker. frightening situations. They Yuko Okazaki I considered myself a model seedy underbelly. But soon, the The last straw happened five Kayoko Shimoda know they might need to climb of resilience, adaptability and wormy side of the Big Apple ex- feet from a train trestle so crum- Multimedia Consultants a few stairs, avoid the dark al- grit. But New York City had Max Genao Doug Johnson posed itself. Several tiny apart- bling with rust, I thought it might leys and sidestep a scary rodent Jason Lee Hans Simpson jackhammered its way through ments we toured in the East Vil- collapse. “Don’t worry,” our Chae Pang Yi Gianni Youn or two before they’ll learn the Robert Zuckerman my hard-earned calluses (liter- lage were filthy, with entrances painfully thin and jittery agent ropes. Graphic Designers ally … I have a blister the size wedged between noodle shops told us as we trudged up another It may be hard for a seasoned Kenichi Ogasawara Yosuke Tsuji of Fort Bliss on my big toe) and and tattoo parlors. Some had grimy stairwell, “the apartment military spouse like me to admit, Sales Support rendered me a pathetic jelly- dank basement laundry rooms has noise-cancelling windows.” Yu mi Choe Kazumi Hasegawa but my military child’s unique Hiromi Isa Ichiro Katayanagi fish, quivering in fear among the where rapists might lurk, and Minutes later, I looked out a bed- Yoko Noro Yusuke Sato courage sometimes makes her shadowy depths of its towering others forced tenants to patron- room window as a train rumbled Saori Tamanaha Toshie Yoshimizu better suited for “the real world” Un Chong Yu and complex personality. ize nearby laundromats where by, mere feet from the sill. Not than I am. I was excited to experience heroin addicts nap. In Midtown, only was the noise deafening, I For feedback and inquiries, Read more of Lisa Smith Molinari’s contact [email protected] Anna’s eccentric new locale, I was shocked at what consti- had to grab my chin to keep my columns at: with only mild apprehension. I tuted an apartment bedroom: teeth from chattering. To place an ad, call DSN 755-2255 themeatandpotatoesoflife.com korea.stripes.com/contact figured, how different could it be a “flex” space with just enough Back in Rhode Island, I shud- Email: meatandpotatoesoflife@ from Rome, London, Paris, and room for a twin bed, no closet, dered at the memory of two dead googlemail.com JUNE 24 − JULY 7, 2021 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 3 4 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JUNE 24 − JULY 7, 2021 DRUMMER BOY Humphr king eys’ teen roc Korea to beat of own drum in STRIPES KOREA (Joshua) My parents gave having to drum it, film it, edit it J me a cheap kids’ drum and get it to my channel. I am in rom the first time he set for Christmas when I the process from start to finish picked up a pair of sticks was 7 or 8 years old, when they and seeing the end product on F more than 7 years ago, saw how much I liked it, they my channel brings a feeling of Joshua Berryman has been paid for lessons from a lady who pride in the work I put in and rocking to the beat of his own was a great drummer and the results. drum, literally. played in a band. The freshman from Hum- Fast forward to this tour in So, do you see yourself in phreys High School in South Ko- Korea, where I was fortunate S a rock band someday? rea, who has his own YouTube enough to have a worship lead- channel “Cru Drums,” spends er allow me to join the worship I think every kid has hours a day practicing his craft team and that has slowly de- J dreams of being famous. and enjoys playing his drums veloped into me playing more If I could find kids my age during worship services on Sundays at the AGAPE services that wanted to be in a band it Camp Humphreys. In May, the on Camp Humphreys. This has would be great, a memory that aspiring rocker had the oppor- been my biggest development so carries on for a lifetime. Being tunity to compete against some far because I am getting direc- overseas, finding kids who have of the best young drummers in tion from some great musicians. the desire to form a group and Korea, placing third at a festival put in the time it takes to mesh in Seoul. What do you enjoy most is challenging. But I do dream of Stars and Stripes recently S about playing the drums? that scenario and us playing for caught up with the soon-to-be the entire school or some venue. 15-year-old to discuss his love I enjoy the feeling of in- Until that happens, I keep my for drumming and his ambi- J dependence while I’m focus on my youtube channel tions for the future. drumming. It is a great “Cru Drums” to promote my stress reliever from the de- drumming. I can see myself (Stars and Stripes) mands of life. My drum set is a drumming for the rest of my S Joshua, what made special place I can escape to for life, and if the opportu- you pick up the sticks 7 a few hours a day. I also like the nity arises in the future Courtesy photos years ago? fact that I go into a drum cover to earn a living off it in a JUNE 24 − JULY 7, 2021 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 5 rock band it would be to COVID and that I had experi- my school’s talent show in the learning to drum a song and great. But realistically, it ence making drum covers so past, so I was skeptical at my publish it to my YouTube chan- could also just be a hobby and was able to put together a video chances, but the producers liked nel or drumming for the Wor- that would be okay.