interchange of Alpine and the Christian stronghold that it would continue FINDING GRACE to be up to the present day. A humble medium IN THE EVERYDAY The deeply held religious beliefs of the region, coupled with the inherent majesty Religious Carvings of the Alps of the landscape, meant that many Alpine artists over the centuries have taken Biblical By Julia Hudson stories as the inspiration for their works, and this region is now the proud home of some of the most beloved Christian wood carvings in existence. For a belief system that centers on a young born into meager conditions, it seems fitting that wood should provide the basis of so much of the region’s creative output, from Inspired by their faith and the natural beauty that surrounds them, like in Switzerland‘s inexpensive crafts to priceless fine art and Bernese Oberland (left) Alpine carvers create fine works of art from wood—such as the church ornament. Holy Blood Altar of St. James Church in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, . This is not, by and large, a land of shimmering theatres and glitzy palaces. The iconic imposing mountains and crisp, Christianity finds the Alps Buildings endure much wear and tear in neat snows of the Alps are testaments The conquering of the region now known the freezing climate (which averages 25 to the hardiness of its people, who have as Switzerland by the Romans at the turn of degrees Fahrenheit in the winter), as well made their homes in steep villages for the Common Era redefined the culture of as heavy water damage and occasional millennia, withstanding harsh winters the entire Alps. Where Germanic paganism structural threats from the steep slope of and relative isolation in order to reap the had held sway for generations, Christianity the mountains. Thus, they are constructed benefits of living in what often appears to began to find its way into the local culture, accordingly: The quintessential Alpine be the heavens. with its first formal references dating back church is relatively small and squat, built of to AD 313. stone, or wattle and daub on sturdy timber. It’s telling that natural elements are always As Roman influence waned in the early These modest chapels, however, have long associated with these environs—the centuries of the millennium, Christianity been the center of village life, and walking typical icons of the region consist of grew in strength, and local people found inside one often feels like opening a jewelry stone, snow, grass, and wood. The last themselves spellbound by the stories and box—you can discover surprisingly ornate of these has had an outsized impact on iconographies of the faith. treasures within. culture, local and beyond: There is no way to envision the sweeping landscapes Around the same time Christianity was a popular pastime in without imagining trees, deep green and was gaining popularity in Switzerland, much of the area, particularly in the winter, rich with sap and heady mountain scent, Germany’s southern region of Bavaria when farmers spent the long, isolated season and heavy timber beams crossing low was also feeling its strong influence. carving little toys and gifts to help keep ceilings in dark, warm taverns. Local rulers known as the Agilofing dukes children amused—and these little projects formally established the region of Bavaria also helped provide families with secondary For the people of the Alps—the areas of and also vocally supported the growth income when the fields were frozen over northern , Bavaria, and Switzerland of the religion—a shrewd move to unify and blanketed in snow. In certain places, that intersect at this legendary mountain people of differing tribal backgrounds and such as ’s , these range—wood has long provided a way pagan practices. local craftspeople built an industry that to heat the home, cook and smoke food, was hundreds strong, and tradesfolk would build villages, construct sledges and skis, The Holy Roman Emperor maintained journey as far as Portugal and Russia to sell and even inspire art. And during long, cold control of the surrounding Alpine area, the pieces. Val Gardena developed into one seasons spent indoors, peering out at the as evidenced by murals found in Italy’s of the great centers for religious statuary, grand sky presiding over snow-capped Dolomites region, chiefly the church of and began to ship carvings and ridges, it’s easy to see how the imaginations Santo Stefano in Carisolo. Roman rule, to Catholic churches the world over. of the people turned towards religious as nominal as it was at times, did much subjects for inspiration. to guarantee the continued cultural

16 INSIDER SUMMER/FALL 2015 17 Germany’s Gothic gifts elements of and to focus throughout the town without having to charms and lucrative potential of wooden In the late Gothic period of the 15th and more on the stories and their morals as told look very hard—Luftlmalerei frescoes from . Huggler himself, the “King of early 16th centuries, German carvers hit a through the humble material of wood. the 1700s adorn buildings and tell familiar Carvers,” became adept at human and creative high point. Expressionist figures Biblical stories and the history of the local animal figurines, a skill he passed on to his filled intricate , and master carv- Oberammergau’s singularity people. They also tell another story: The son, Hans, who ended up becoming one of ers such as Michael Pacher, Veit Stoss, and If you’ve ever heard of the Bavarian town history of wood carving in the area. the teachers at the Woodcarving School. Gregor Erhart produced religious architec- of Oberammergau, it may well be because tural works that are widely revered as some of its unique take on Christ’s Passion. This The art of wood carving has been passed The younger Huggler used his skill at of the finest ever created. story took particular root in the collective down here for generations, and you’ll creating lifelike figures and took up the find shops on every street selling nativity practice of carving nativity scenes. Brienz In fact, the emotional representations of imaginations of Oberammergau’s people, scenes, ornaments, , angels, and townspeople became used to seeing their Biblical scenes created largely in Bavaria and there has been a Passion play per- secular trinkets produced by carvers at one likenesses in these religious works, as Hans during the Gothic period are considered formed here every ten years since 1634. of the many local schools. Though the was known for taking inspiration from by some to be the greatest wood carvings And it should come as no surprise that a population of Oberammergau is only about everyday people in his life. in the history of sculpture. The town town that undertakes such a massive proj- 5,000 people, there are about 70 active of Rothenburg was home to the carver ect would decide to also pour incredible wood carvers—a charming anachronism to An uncertain future , who spent five energy into its ecclesiastical sculpture. present-day observers. These craftspeople Throughout the region, schools for carving years perfecting his Altar of the Holy Blood, However, it’s staggering to realize that call themselves Herrgottschnitzer, or “God have popped up over the years: ’s an particularly notable for being the nativity scene at the Oberammergau carvers,” since the main subjects of carvings Staats-Gewerbeschule (Craft School), the monochromatic. The rich ornamentation Museum took more than 100 years to cre- are religious in nature. art school at Groden, and the Woodcarving of many churches ushered in during the ate—the impressive display consists of hun- School of Oulx are just a few. With such a was off-putting to the faithful, dreds of different figures, including figures There are many thriving artisan schools wealth of skilled artists trained in Christian particular the laborers of Europe. This altar, from the Canaan wedding, where is in Oberammergau, including the Bavarian imagery, it was devastating when, in the built to form an introspection-provoking said to have turned water into wine. State Woodcarving School. One of the 1950s, a combination of inexpensive carving backdrop to the Eucharist, removed the Religious influences can be found school’s most well-known students is machines and the on the Church’s interactions with moder- nity caused a decline in orders for hand- produced religious statuary. In Val Gardena alone, hundreds of The art of woodcarving continues in the Alps today, evidenced by this folk artist in the Dolomites, Italy. woodworkers are said to have given up their craft, and it’s not clear how much longer the Alps will be able to sustain the Wolfram Aichele, who produced the statue objects and small household goods. The number of elite carving schools currently of Christ on a donkey in the town’s Church locals his success and wanted to learn residing there. of St. Peter and St. Paul. The maxim of how to supplement their own poor incomes, humility is exemplified in this sleepy town, so Fischer began to teach. Whatever happens, it’s clear that the legacy of these artisans has left much for the world where intense training and effort produces In 1851, Brienz achieved international to savor. In any area where people are produce striking works intended to teach fame by exhibiting wooden pieces at the frequently illiterate and relatively isolated the viewer the rewards of life spent in Exposition; in 1884, the Brienz from other communities, visual symbols can service to higher ideals. Woodcarving School was founded. take the place of written accounts to provide Students to this day learn traditional a unified religious heritage; in the Alps, local Moving the tradition forward techniques of hand-carving and chiseling, artisans took whatever materials were at On the shores of Switzerland’s Lake Brienz a far cry from the industrialized nature of hand to illustrate and share the history of lies a town of the same name, a peaceful much modern production. The business of their faith. In the meantime, travelers have hamlet where people have been imagin- woodcarving took off here and launched a particular ability to help, by supporting ing their world in rough planes and oiled the industry in the nearby Bernese hand-crafted, locally produced works that figures for 200 years. In the famine of 1816, Oberland, as well. a local man named Christian Fischer, who keep a little piece of this rich tradition alive. was trained as a wood turner and furniture Johann Huggler, born in 1834, followed in Julia is a freelance writer based in London, maker, started to see the potential to earn Fischer’s footsteps, growing up in a Brienz England. She has been contributing to extra income from carving decorative that had by that time fully embraced the Grand Circle publications for four years.

The interior of St. James Church, home to the iconic Holy Blood altarpiece, is a prime example of the quintessential Alpine church— sturdy stone construction with carved wooden pews and ornate detailing. Discover these endearing woodcarving traditions on Romantic Villages of Alpine Europe: www.gct.com/avs

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