Alan James Mike Robertson

Mike Robertson Mike James Alan Pembroke Saddle Head. Photo: Mike Robertson Mike Photo: Head. Saddle on Dominey Katie Cover: Parnell Ian Photo: - (E6) Elmyra Great of link-up his on contact of points three maintaining Emmett Tim page: This 978-1-873341-12-4ISBN 14001ISO environmentalstandard toaccordingproducedsustainable forests and fromfibre woodfrom made paper use Weonly UK.the in Rockfaxprinted areAll books Library British the owner.availablerecordis cataloguefrom CIP A copyright the of writtenpermission prior without otherwise photocopyingelectronic,or mechanical, means,any by or transmittedform anyor in retrievala reproduced,system,storedin maybe publication this of reserved.part rights No All www.rockfax.com ROCKFAX© Ltd. 2009 PublishedROCKFAXby Ltd. August2009 (Tel:1185)145561 (0) 44 (+int) CordeebyDistributed PrintedNottinghamHawthornes,by (www.collins.co.uk).Maps Collinsby supplied kindly maps source on ROCKFAX.by maps All based maps Some byJames Cartoons Alan Craggs Chris editing Additional Robertson Mike and James Alan Text,topos,photo-topos, maps PembrokeshireCoast the on areas best the to guide rockclimbing A - at Stennis Head. Stennis at - 144 page Stennis the Menace the Stennis (HS) - (HS) Mist Sea - at - 104 page and The

Mother Carey's Mowing/Stackpole St. Govan's Trevallen Stennis/Chapel Huntsman's Leap Bosherston Head Saddle Head Castle/Rusty Mewsford Flimston Bay St. David's

Contents 3

Introduction ...... 4 Guidebooks ...... 6 St. St. David's Acknowledgements ...... 8 Advertiser Directory ...... 10

Pembroke Logistics ...... 12 Tourist Information ...... 14 Flimston Flimston Bay Accommodation ...... 14 Supplies ...... 16 Beaches ...... 18

Pembroke Climbing ...... 20 Mewsford Access ...... 22 Birds and Nesting ...... 24 Tides ...... 26 Gear ...... 28

Grades ...... 30 Castle/Rusty Graded List and Top 50 . . . . . 32 Pembroke Crag Table ...... 36

St David's ...... 38 Porth-Clais ...... 40 Saddle Head Porth-y-Ffynnon ...... 44 Initiation Slabs ...... 47 Craig Caerfai ...... 50 Carreg-y-Barcud ...... 54

Flimston Bay ...... 62 Bosherston Head Mewsford ...... 68 Mewsford ...... 70 Crickmail Point ...... 74 Triple Overhang ...... 76 Blockhouse to Sitting Bull . . . . . 78 Huntsman's Leap Castle/Rusty ...... 82 The Castle ...... 84 Rusty Walls ...... 90

Misty Walls ...... 94 Stennis/Chapel Hollow Caves Bay ...... 96 Saddle Head ...... 100 Bosherston Head ...... 106

Huntsman's Leap ...... 120 Trevallen Stennis/Chapel ...... 134 Stennis Head ...... 136 Stennis Ford ...... 148 Chapel Point ...... 152

Trevallen ...... 156 St. Govan's St Govan's ...... 170 St Govan's ...... 172 St Govan's East ...... 186 Mowing/Stackpole ...... 192 Mowing Word ...... 194 Stackpole ...... 202 Mowing/Stackpole Mother Carey's ...... 210

Mark Glaister climbing Poison Arrow (E4) - Route Index ...... 226 page 181 - at St Govan's. Photo: Alan James Map ...... 232 Mother Carey's 4 Introduction St. David'sSt. Flimston BayFlimston Mewsford Castle/Rusty Saddle Head Saddle Bosherston Head Bosherston

Moon-rise over Stack Rocks. Photo: Chris Craggs It’s been said that the cliffs of Pembrokeshire are the finest sea cliffs in the world, and I’m inclined to agree. Pembroke epitomises all that our eclectic world of climbing can offer: isolation, wonderment, Huntsman's LeapHuntsman's freedom, space - and a feeling that you’re poised on the very edge of nowhere, a place that only the circling gulls and the diving seals can call home. These hinterland qualities, combined with the nuances of the wide-ranging tides, give the region that magical wild-coast flavour. Nowhere else on earth will you discover such a serene oceanic atmosphere coupled with the superb physicality of Pembroke’s perfect cliffs, and nowhere else can offer the sheer quantity of its endless tally of routes. Stennis/Chapel

A brief introduction to the cliffs of the region would never be complete without reference to some of the classic areas - the easy-to-navigate, vast walls of Trevallen and St Govan’s, the walk-in delights of Stennis Head, and the deep, thrilling chasms of Huntsman’s Leap and Stennis Ford. Whilst further into the amazing Range East, we have the grade-friendly Saddle Head, the grand testpieces of The Castle, and

Trevallen the delightful outlying walls and slabs of Mewsford, Crickmail and Flimston Bay, along with all the guar- anteed pleasures of Rusty Walls, Misty Walls, Triple Overhang and the atmospheric Hollow Caves Bay. Reaching out eastwards gives yet more excellence: the massive walls of Mowing Word and Stackpole Head provide a bewildering array of challenges, whilst the outlying venue of Mother Carey’s is the perfect Tenby-side experience. St. Govan'sSt. In these pages, you’ll also find North Pembroke’s stunning, south-facing coastline, found close-by to the miniature ‘city’ of St David’s. The rock here is glorious; fine-grained, purple-red sandstone, fast-drying, and significantly more colourful than its limestone counterpart! The angles are more slabby, with a

Mowing/Stackpole grade average to suit. Carreg-y-Barcud certainly provides the choicest plums, but that’s not all the area’s sandstone has to offer. The small but beautifully-formed slabs of Porth-Clais, Porth-y-Ffynnon, St Non’s Bay, Initiation Slabs and Craig Caerfai provide excellent, mostly well-protected classics - and the majority of these fall into the sub-E1 category. There’s possibly no better place to hone your leading skills in Pembrokeshire than on these compact, colourful slabs. Mother Carey's Mother So yes: Pembroke may be the absolute queen of sea cliffs! Experiencing the diversity and charm of Pembroke has never been more accessible than now, and the vast range of routes and grades make it the perfect destination for climbers from all over the world. Mike Robertson Introduction 5 St. St. David's Flimston Flimston Bay Mewsford Castle/Rusty Saddle Head Bosherston Bosherston Head Huntsman's Huntsman's Leap Stennis/Chapel Trevallen St. St. Govan's Mowing/Stackpole

Libby Peter climbing the beautiful red wall of Chinon (HVS) - page 46

- on the Velvet Wall at Porth-y-Ffynnon. Photo: Mike Robertson Mother Carey's 6 Introduction

St. David'sSt. The 1995 Pembroke Rockfax Back in 1995 the 'Pembroke Rockfax' caused something of a stir. Prior to its publication, there hadn't been many privately-produced guidebooks to traditional climbing areas and no-one knew what to make of it - a useful addition to the UK guidebook repertoire, or the Flimston BayFlimston 'thin end of the wedge' and the beginning of the end for definitive guidebooks? Whatever the thoughts of the politicians of the time, the detailed topos and precise approach maps were welcomed by those who wished to explore Pembroke. More significantly, it marked a change from guidebooks which stood as a record of what had been

Mewsford climbed, to guidebooks which emphasised the climbing and the routes from the point of view of the reader who was wanting to climb them. It was an important book for Rockfax, one which was key to developing the style with which we now produce all our books, a style which has

Castle/Rusty influenced many of the guidebooks being produced today.

This Guidebook This 2009 edition of the Pembroke Rockfax is a selective guide which means that it only covers the major sections, of the best cliffs in Pembroke. In general, if we include a buttress, then we will include Saddle Head Saddle most of the routes on that buttress even if that means a few lesser routes are listed. The idea is to give climbers a full picture of what is available once they have made the effort to get to the crag, but that does mean including the odd route which isn't a super classic. In total there are 658 routes described in detail which will keep most climbers happy for more than a lifetime's worth of visits. Bosherston Head Bosherston Route Lines - The photo-topos in this book are big, really big. This has enabled us to mark the route lines on very clearly, showing intricate detail of where the routes go. We have taken great care when adding the route lines but it is inevitable that some may not be exactly right, especially on the more obscure routes and on routes where there is no precise line. If you are unsure then use your own judge- Huntsman's LeapHuntsman's ment to pick out a line, and let us know via the Rockfax Route Database (www.rockfax.com).

There are actually thousands of routes along the Pembrokeshire Coast, including the whole of Range West which isn't covered in this book. For a more complete list of the climbing in Pembroke you should consult the series of guidebooks produced by the Climbers' Club. Their two volume 1995 book is due Stennis/Chapel to be updated in 2010/12 with a series of 5 books. For more information consult the Climbers' Club web site - www.climbers-club.co.uk

The information in this book has come from a number of sources with personal experience figuring highly. My collection of old guides has grown considerably over the years and most are filled with

Trevallen scribbles, including a rather tatty copy of the excellent Harber/de Montjoye guide from 1985, a book which was the catalyst for many older climbers to start their love affair/obsession with the sea cliffs of Pembroke. Other information has come from active climbers and there has been a huge amount of feedback submitted to the Rockfax Route Database (www.rockfax.com) and the UKClimbing.com Logbook system (www.ukclimbing.com). St. Govan'sSt.

We would like to acknowledge the effort put in by all those who have worked on documenting the climbing of the Pembrokeshire Coast over the years. This is a vast area with complex access where quick and easy research is hampered by the obvious difficulty of viewing the routes properly. It is an Mowing/Stackpole impossible task to document everything with 100% accuracy, but hopefully we can at least record routes in a way that inspires those who want to explore, and provide good information for those who want to climb the classics. Guidebook Footnote

Mother Carey's Mother The inclusion of a climbing area in this guidebook does not mean that you have a right of access or the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of routes within this guide are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy of the description. The grades set in this guide are a fair assessment of the difficulty of the climbs. Climbers who attempt a route of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that route. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors, publisher and distributors of this book do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety. Summer Specials!

Manic Mondays Come and join in the fun on our Deep Water Solo Specials, as we let the tide in every Monday over the summer!

Cool Wednesdays Need optimum conditions for your redpoint? Come along and enjoy temperatures of less than 10˚C with only 20% humidity!

Weekend Winners Get 3 routes for the price of two every weekend in August!

Coming Soon Leporama™ 2 'The Stennis Sensation' The thick end of the wedge! 8 Acknowledgements

It's been an absolute pleasure to work once again with Alan on this, my second Rockfax guide, and I St. David'sSt. owe him a big thanks for this. The project has meant numerous trips to, let's face it, one of the best spots in the known universe, and also prompted my purchase (finally) of a 'proper' inflatable boat and outboard motor - an invaluable tool for all those elusive crag shots! A year or so has passed since these water-borne picture antics were complete, and the colourful end result is now something

Flimston BayFlimston I think every Pembroke enthusiast will both enjoy and use to the full. I also owe a huge thanks to many of my climbing pals, without whom this project would have been a great deal more difficult, and infinitely less fun! These folk have all dished the good dirt on all their favourite crags, zawns, bays and caves, and their enthusiasm for this incredible slice of Welsh coastline has been entirely infectious...

Mewsford So to Julian Lines, for all his invaluable and unfailing assistance with matters both on and off the waves, and also to Dave Pickford, Steve Findlay, Julian Walker, Meilee Rafe, Libby Peter, Gavin Symonds, Sarah Garnett, Simon Tappin and Mark Taylor.

Mike Robertson, July 2009 Castle/Rusty

This book has been a real pleasure to put together. I am grateful to all those who helped with the previous Pembroke guidebooks and those who have given feedback which we have been able to use in this book. Special mention to: Chris Craggs (photos, proofing and route-checking with Saddle Head Saddle Colin), Dave Pickford (hard routes and photos), Dave Moore (North Coast), Tim Lounds (great local contact), Jack Geldard (photos, proofing and stalwart member of the Campaign for Real Grades - CamReG), Sherri Davy (advertising), Sophie Milner (bird information), Stefan Doerr, Jordan Buys, Mark Davies, Steve Findlay, Frank Ramsay, Stuart Lade, James McHaffie and Pete Robins.

Bosherston Head Bosherston The photography in this book is probably the best ever seen in a climbing guidebook. In addition to those mentioned above, many thanks to: Ian Parnell, Chad Harrison, Jamie Moss, Patrick Daniel, Sarah Clough, Kev Little, Mike Hutton, Nick Smith, Tim Wilkinson, Mick Ryan, James Marshall, Scott Sadler, Chris Sims, Jon Fullwood, Gareth Hallam and Mark Glaister for their superb Huntsman's LeapHuntsman's contributions. These days I have far less time to actually author books but Pembroke is one area which I have been reluctant to pass onto someone else. Luckily Mike stepped up and offered his services to update the Stennis/Chapel old information and undertake the huge task of getting a set of quality crag shots from the sea. In terms of coastal sea cliff crag photography, there is no-one better or more dedicated in the world. My thanks to Mike for all his work on the

Trevallen photography and text. In 1995 I dedicated the book to Hannah and Henriette; this time I'd like to dedicate it to Henriette, Hannah, Sam and Lydia. 14 years ago I accused the baby Hannah of bashing St. Govan'sSt. the keyboard with her tiny fists, this time her comment when she looked at a copy of the 1995 book was, "blimey, that looks old- fashioned". How times change! Mowing/Stackpole

Alan James, July 2009 Mother Carey's Mother

Mike and Alan checking lines at St Govan's. Photo: Mick Ryan Rock Climbing, Mountaineering, Winter Skills, Mountain Biking, Gorge Walking, Coasteering, Kayaking, Canoeing, Instructor Courses and Equipment Hire

www.wetandhigh.co.uk 07887 737076 [email protected] 10 Advertiser Directory St. David'sSt. Activities Centre Wet and High Adventures - page 9 Somerset. Tel: 07887 737076 www.wetandhigh.co.uk Flimston BayFlimston Accommodation Thorne Chapel Bunkhouse - back flap and page 15 Thorne, near Bosherston. Tel 01646 661240

Mewsford www.pembrokerocks.com Climbing Walls Awesome Walls - contents and page 31 St Alban’s Church, Liverpool. Castle/Rusty Tel: 0151 298 2422 The Engine House, Stockport. Tel: 0161 494 9949 www.awesomewalls.co.uk

Saddle Head Saddle Boulders - page 17 St Catherine's Park, Cardiff. Tel: 0845 52 118 50 www.boulders-climbing.com

Bosherston Head Bosherston Dynamic Rock - inside back cover 16-18 Hebron Road, Swansea. Tel 01792 845655 www.dynamicrock.co.uk

Huntsman's LeapHuntsman's DR Walls - page 27 39 Steps Leeds Road, Otley. Tel: 0113 284 2369 www.drclimbingwalls.com

Stennis/Chapel Shops High Sport - page 7 51-52 Wyle Cop, Shrewsbury. Tel 01743 231 649 www.highsports.co.uk

Trevallen Mountain Intelligence - back cover 70 North Street, Leeds.Tel 0113 246 9843 www.mountain-intelligence.co.uk Other Advertisers St. Govan'sSt. British Mountaineering Council - page 23 177-179 Burton Road, Manchester. Tel: 0161 445 6111 www.thebmc.com Mowing/Stackpole Berghaus - inside front cover Extreme Centre, Sunderland. Tel: 0191 516 5700 www.berghaus.com

Mother Carey's Mother Plas y Brenin - page 25 Capel Curig, North Wales. Tel: 01690 720214 www.pyb.co.uk Advertiser Directory 11 St. St. David's Flimston Flimston Bay Mewsford Castle/Rusty Saddle Head Bosherston Bosherston Head Huntsman's Huntsman's Leap Stennis/Chapel Trevallen St. St. Govan's Mowing/Stackpole

Simon Tappin stretching for a runner on Oratorio (E3) - page 95 - at Misty Walls. Photo: Dave Pickford Mother Carey's 12 St. David's Flimston Bay Mewsford Castle/Rusty Saddle Head Bosherston Head Huntsman's Leap Stennis/Chapel Trevallen St. Govan's Mowing/Stackpole Mother Carey's 13

Pembroke St. David's Logistics Flimston Bay Mewsford Castle/Rusty Saddle Head Bosherston Bosherston Head Huntsman's Huntsman's Leap Stennis/Chapel Trevallen St. St. Govan's Mowing/Stackpole

Great days on the rock are usually followed by extensive

debriefing sessions at the Bosherston Inn.. Photo: Mick Ryan Mother Carey's 14 Pembroke Logistics

St. David'sSt. In Emergency Dial 999 and ask for 'MILFORD HAVEN COASTGUARD' They have knowledge of the climbing areas and routes and can co-ordinate any rescue efforts. Flimston BayFlimston Mobile Phones Mobile phone coverage in Pembroke is very poor by modern standards. Many providers don't get a steady signal after you pass St Petrox on the approach to Bosherston, and Bosherston itself is hopeless for older phones, which can be frustrating if you are used to using your mobile to arrange to meet up with people.

Mewsford You can usually get a signal from the top of St Govan's and also at other points from the clifftops in the Range. 999 calls are routed via any available network so you are usually able to find a signal in emergen- cies but sometimes they are routed via North Devon so please specify 'Milford Haven Coastguard'.

Castle/Rusty Tourist Information For more information on accommodation, places to visit, events, walks and weather, then take a look at the following web sites and TI Offices which have far more information than is included here. www.visitpembrokeshire.com Pembroke TIC - Tel: 01437 776499

Saddle Head Saddle St David's TIC - Tel: 01437 720392 Haverfordwest TIC - Tel: 01437 763110

Camping Bosherston Head Bosherston There are lots of campsites all over Pembrokshire, the two sites which are most popular with climbers staying in the south are listed below. St Petrox - The Old Rectory, St Petrox, Huntsman's LeapHuntsman's Pembrokeshire, SA71 5EQ. Tel: 01646 683980 All facilities and in a convenient position half way between Pembroke and Bosherston. Climbers are always welcome and you can Stennis/Chapel book in advance, there is no pub within walking distance though. Glebe Campsite - Glebe Farmhouse, Bosherton, Pembrokeshire, SA71 5DN. Tel: 01646 661352

Trevallen Situated in the village of Bosherston, it has three fields and all facilities. You can turn up 'Gypsy Colin' in some alternative Pembroke late without pre-booking although it does accommodation. Photo: Chris Craggs crowded on bank holiday weekends. Great location for the pub. There are numerous campsites on the St David's peninsula of all standards. There are camping options St. Govan'sSt. around the St David's itself, but check the prices before you commit - some of them are expensive. Caerfai Farm - St David's, Pembrokeshire, SA62 6QT. Tel: 01437 720548 A 5 minute walk from St David's and a 20 minutes walk from Carreg-y-Barcud. Mowing/Stackpole Not Camping There a lots of B&B’s in Pembroke, St David's and Tenby. Holiday cottages are also plentiful. For more information, contact one of the TICs listed above or put 'cottages pembrokeshire' into Google. Thorne Chapel Bunkhouse (see opposite) - Thorne, Merrion, Pembrokeshire, SA71 5EA.

Mother Carey's Mother Tel: 01646 661240 Bunkhouse (for 10) and house (for 4) for rental, plus 3 gypsy caravans (for 2 each - see photo above). Fully catered or self-catering. Only 5km from Bosherston. www.pembrokerocks.com Thorne Chapel Bunkhouse Three miles Bunkhouse from 3000 routes: Gypsy Caravans Self Catering and some great beaches...... Half Board Transport

Five minutes drive from St Govan’s Head

www.pembrokerocks.com Tel: 01646 661240 16 PembrokeSt Govan's LogisticsHead Tangerine Dream

St. David'sSt. Pubs Pubs and pub talk are integral to climbing and it is important to know where the best places are to hang out after a tiring day at the crag. There are many more pubs than listed below but these tend to be of most interest to climbers. St Govan’s Inn - Bosherston, Pembrokeshire. Tel: (01646) 661311 Flimston BayFlimston Real ales and a full menu. THE pub for post-crag anaylsis. Swanlake Inn - Jameston, Manorbier, Pembrokeshire. Tel: (01834) 871262 The Armstrong Arms - Jasons Corner, Stackpole, Pembrokeshire. Tel: (01646) 672324 The Salutation - On the road from Pembroke to Castlemartin. Farmer's Arms - Goat Street, St David's. The best pub for Barcud. Good food and an outside terrace. Mewsford Cafes Around here, cafe means pots of tea and toasted tea cakes while greasy full set breakfasts are hard to find. The following two are the ones best situated for the climbing areas:

Castle/Rusty The Olde Worlde Cafe (Ma Weston’s) - The legendary cafe situated next to the pub in Bosherston. Jones Cafe - In St David's. 8am opening, with great grub and coffee.

Climbing Gear

Saddle Head Saddle There are a couple of shops which have a small stock of climbing gear. Pembroke Outdoors is situated on the main street in Pembroke Dock - www.pembsoutdoors.co.uk. There is also a small outdoor gear shop in St David's that carries some basic stock.

Pembroke Dock, Bosherston Head Bosherston Tesco Petrol Haverfordwest and St David's Pembroke Town A407 Fish & Chips Supermarket From St Clears Chinese and M4 Huntsman's LeapHuntsman's Minimarket Castle

Newsagents Kebab A477 P Pizza/chicken Stennis/Chapel To P Fish & Chips Castlemartin P Pizza Chinese Tourist P Information To Tenby and Minimarket Mother Carey's Train

Trevallen A4139 Station Minimarket

B4319 About 500m To Bosherston St. Govan'sSt. Food Supplies There are three late-opening Minimarkets, one on the way into Pembroke, one on the main street, and the final one is on the road to Tenby. For more choice (and better prices) try the supermarket on the main Mowing/Stackpole street. For big shops head towards Pembroke Dock and you can't miss the monster Tescos. St David's has a small Minimarket.

Take-aways All climbing areas need their take aways, there should be lots of them, with lots of different choices of Mother Carey's Mother food and they should all be open early on Sunday evenings, so that you can grab a bite before the long drive home. Pembroke is quite good on this latter point and has a good spread of Fish & Chips, Chinese, Indian, pizzas, chicken and burgers - see map above.

18 Pembroke Logistics Beaches St. David'sSt. Flimston BayFlimston Mewsford Castle/Rusty Saddle Head Saddle Bosherston Head Bosherston Huntsman's LeapHuntsman's Stennis/Chapel Trevallen St. Govan'sSt. Mowing/Stackpole Mother Carey's Mother

Freshwater West beach's aspect almost guarantees great sunsets. Photo Chris Craggs Beaches Pembroke Logistics 19

Whether you want them for a rest day or to take the whole family to, beaches are an important aspect of climbing in Pembroke, mind you, I have yet to meet a climber who has the ability of lazing on a beach all day without getting itchy fingers. Luckily there are beaches in Pembroke which have been thoughtfully provided with small bouldering areas, interesting places to explore or some great surfing. These beaches St. David's are indicated on the maps on page 232.

St David's The entire region is a mecca for surfing, kayaking and coasteering - the coastline is one of the most stunning you’ll find anywhere (and I mean, anywhere), just drive to the car park at Caerfai Bay and take a Flimston Bay look at the view. Along with Freshwater West, the two main beaches near St David's are the best surfing beaches in South Wales - Newgale Sands and Whitesand Bay beach. Newgale is passed on the drive from Pembroke town. Mewsford Broad Haven Beach This is the delightful beach which you cross on the way to Mowing Word. There is some good bouldering on the far side of the beach, just above a small stream. Also worthwhile is the girdle traverse of Star Rock which is the large pointed stack on the right-hand side (looking out) of the beach. Approach it by turning left after the pub in Bosherston and following this road to the National Trust car park (pay) at the end. The Castle/Rusty beach is below.

Barafundel Beach

This beach is crossed on the Stackpole Quay car park approach to Mowing Word and Stackpole. The Saddle Head sideline entertainment for hyperactive climbers is not as good as Broad Haven, but it is a very pretty beach. Approach it by driving through Stackpole (see map on page 194) and turning right to Stackpole Quay parking (pay). The beach is about 1km south along the coast path.

St Govan's East Beach Bosherston Head A small nearly-secret beach situated just north of St Govan's East. It is reached from the St Govan's car park by heading towards the headland but branching left when above Trevallen down a small valley.

Flimston Bay Beach Huntsman's Leap An amazingly atmospheric place at the Stack Rocks end of Range East. You pass over the top of it on the way to Flimston Slab and Crystal Slabs but getting to the beach itself is a bit tricky so don't set off with all your deck chairs and wind breaks. It is a superb place for a barbecue since there is masses of driftwood and there are sections which never get covered at high tide. Approach from the Stack Rock's car park and walk east along the coast path for about 1km. When you see the beach, which can be identified by Stennis/Chapel the two isolated pinnacles, scramble down a steep gully on the west (right looking out) side of the bay.

Freshwater West Beach A large beach which is superb for surfing, but it can be a bit bleak and it is always windy. Approach by Trevallen driving to Castlemartin, follow the road towards Angle and park on the right, after 2km. St. St. Govan's Mowing/Stackpole Mother Carey's 20 St. David'sSt.

Flimston BayFlimston Pembroke

Mewsford Climbing Castle/Rusty Saddle Head Saddle Bosherston Head Bosherston Huntsman's LeapHuntsman's Stennis/Chapel Trevallen St. Govan'sSt. Mowing/Stackpole Mother Carey's Mother

Mike Weeks starting the run out on Boat to Naxos (E7) - page 125 - on the West Wall of Huntsman's Leap. Photo: Ian Parnell 21

Pembroke St. David's Flimston Flimston Bay

Climbing Mewsford Castle/Rusty Saddle Head Bosherston Bosherston Head Huntsman's Huntsman's Leap Stennis/Chapel Trevallen St. St. Govan's Mowing/Stackpole Mother Carey's 22 Pembroke Climbing Access St. David'sSt. Flimston BayFlimston Mewsford Castle/Rusty Saddle Head Saddle Bosherston Head Bosherston Photo: Ian Parnell Ian Photo: Climbing in Pembroke is fraught with complex access arrangements; if it isn't the MOD firing then it may be a bird restriction. Even once you have got past those two then you still have to get the tides right; it is a wonder that any climbing gets done at all! Over the years though climbers have got used to these

Huntsman's LeapHuntsman's stringent requirements and, with a bit of good planning, there is usually plenty to climb. What it does mean is that week-long trips are probably only worth planning later in the year, after August 1 when the bird restrictions have lifted, otherwise you could find yourself spending 5 days at Mother Carey's. Most of these agreements have come about because of patient negotiation by the BMC and others fighting for the climbers' right of access to this wonderful area. These rights have been hard-earned so

Stennis/Chapel please respect this effort by sticking to the agreed restrictions as described in this guide and on the BMC Regional Access Database (RAD) - www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ If you do encounter access problems, contact the BMC at The British Mountaineering Council, 177-179 Burton Road, West Didsbury, Manchester, M20 2BB.

Trevallen Range East Restrictions The MOD use Range East to practice firing. The main area which is affected includes all the cliffs V from Flimston Bay (page 64) up to, and including, Chapel Point (page 152). The MOD usually plan to close the Range for 5 days mid-week but never at weekends or on bank holidays. They have often finished firing by around 3 or 4pm and then you can nip in for a quick route. St. Govan'sSt. When firing is taking place there is supposed to be a red flag flying, however there is often still a red flag flying when access is allowed. When Range East is shut, there is always someone on the gate by St Govan’s car park, or by the cattle grid above Bullslaughter Bay when only half Range East is shut. On some occasions the road from Bosherston to St Govan’s car park is also closed. When this is the Mowing/Stackpole case, all of Range East and Trevallen, St Govan’s and St Govan’s East are inaccessible. During August MOD activity is much reduced and they usually only close the Stack Rocks end of Range East up to Bullslaughter Bay. This allows access to all crags from St Govan's car park up to and including Mewsford (page 70). For much of August, the whole of Range East is open all the time. Notification of when firing is to take place is shown on the notice boards outside Mrs. Weston’s Cafe in Mother Carey's Mother Bosherston and at the notice boards by St Govan’s and Stack Rocks car parks. The firing times are also posted one month in advance on www.pembrokeshireranges.com. It is worth noting that the MOD don’t use up all their allocated firing days and sometimes the Range will be open even though the schedule suggested it would be closed.

24 Pembroke Climbing Birds and Nesting

All wild birds and their eggs are protected by law under

St. David'sSt. No climbing to the left of this the Wildlife and Conservation Act 1981. The bird nesting sign in the restricted season. The restrictions on the cliffs in this guide are voluntary and are number refers to the areas on the a result of careful negotiation between the B.M.C. and the PCNPA map at the access points. R.S.P.B. These restrictions aim to protect the rarer birds. A Photo: Chris Craggs

Flimston BayFlimston crag which has obvious and plentiful nests may have no ban because the species there are deemed to be common enough to fend for themselves. Those which need the protection of a ban include guillemot, chough, peregrine, kittiwake and razorbill.

Mewsford Just because you can’t see birds nesting on a banned cliff or route doesn’t mean the ban can be ignored. Some birds, such as chough, nest in deep crevices so they could well be there even though you can’t see them. Others, such as peregrine, have such exacting requirements for a nest site Castle/Rusty that only a few spots may be appropriate. They return to these year after year, or after a gap of many years or even generations. Disturbance of the rarer birds can have serious conse-

Saddle Head Saddle quences. Peregrines are unlikely to nest anywhere if there is a climber near their chosen site. Guillemots place their eggs on their feet to incubate them and if they are disturbed suddenly, the egg may well end up in the sea. You may look at the acres of rock around you and think "but they’ve got all that to nest on"! However Bosherston Head Bosherston some birds like their personal space. For example, a Peregrine generally won’t nest within 800m of another peregrine. Please remember that habitat is very precious. Respect all bird nesting restrictions.

Huntsman's LeapHuntsman's Climbing Restrictions "Now, where can I get some red paint from?" Each year the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park (www.pcnpa.org.uk) produce a free leaflet with a detailed map which gives definitive and up-to-date information about the

Stennis/Chapel bird restrictions which do change from year to year. You can download this leaflet from the BMC site (www.thebmc.co.uk) and the PCNPA site but you need to search for it. The leaflet should always be available from the

Trevallen notice boards by St Govan’s and Stack Rocks car parks, plus various other locations familiar to climbers - the toilet at the Bosherston campsite for example. Clifftop markers (inverted bucketfuls of concrete, painted red) have also been placed on all the areas

St. Govan'sSt. where there is a bird restriction. On the top of these markers there is a number, which refers to the leaflet, and an arrow, which refers to the direction from the marker in which the restriction applies. At the time of writing the cliffs with restrictions in this guidebook are listed below. Mowing/Stackpole Area No climbing from 1 March to 1 August Chapel Point All routes Trevallen 3 routes only, Gypsy Lane, Romany, Breaking the Habit

Mother Carey's Mother Mowing Word Most routes except a few on the East Face Stackpole All routes in this book Mother Carey’s 3 routes only, Star Gate, Warp Factor, Hyperspace

26 Pembroke Climbing Tides

Tides are a very important consideration when climbing in Pembroke St. David'sSt. since the access to, or escape from, most of the cliffs, is affected by the tides. The area has one of the largest tidal ranges in the World with tides swings as big as 7 to 8 metres being common, keep in mind that the average tidal range over most of the oceans is less than a

Flimston BayFlimston metre! Understanding more about tides can be a great help in making 40m the most out of your visit.

About Tides Throughout one lunar month there are two spring or high-range Mewsford tides, and two neap or low-range tides. Spring tides occur during the full and new moons, when the sun and moon are in line and the combined gravitational pull causes the highest tides, which then ebb to the lowest level. During spring tides the low tides will always fall

Castle/Rusty towards the middle of the day. During the first and third quarters of the moon, when the sun’s and moon’s attractional forces are at right angles, we experience the lower 30m neap high tides and the higher low tides. Neap tides will always be low at either end of the day with the high tide occurring in the middle. Where waves break when it is rough! Saddle Head Saddle By knowing the phases of the moon you can pretty roughly work out what kinds of tide you are going to get. Local tide tables (displayed on the notice boards at the entrance to the Range, and available from the Climbers' Club web site - www.climbers-club.co.uk) will give you

Bosherston Head Bosherston precise times and levels of high and low tide. From high tide to low tide takes approximately 6 hours, which means that there are two high tides and two low tides in every 24 hour period. The average time for the tide to turn around is actually slightly longer than 6 hours. This means that each day the high and low tide Huntsman's LeapHuntsman's times are between 30 and 80 minutes later than the previous day. - Refuge belays 20m In Pembroke spring tide swings range from a massive 8.5m (spring used to escape and autumn) to usually at least 6.5m (summer and winter), and neap and incoming tide. tide swings range from around 2.5m (spring and autumn) to 4.5m (summer and winter). Stennis/Chapel Non-tidal belay, only indicated Important Considerations when an actual 1) During the middle hours between low and high tide, the sea comes belay is needed in MUCH faster and areas of flat rock and boulder beach can disap- Non-tidal pear rapidly and escape routes can be cut off. This means that you Restricted ledge

Trevallen may have spent a few hours at the crag and not noticed much tide tidal belay movement when suddenly there is water lapping around your ankles. Accessible 10m This is significantly more pronounced during spring tides. during neap 2) The smaller fall to low neap tides may give much less access than high tide low spring tides to certain cliffs. For example, Blue Sky at Saddle St. Govan'sSt. Head, the routes in the mouth of The Leap, and The Space Face at Mother Carey’s are all inaccessible from below during low neap tides. 3) The lower level of high neap tides may allow access to certain

Mowing/Stackpole routes which are cut off in high spring tides. 4) Persistent and strong onshore winds can prolong or even slightly Neap tide Spring tide 3.5m 7.5m raise high tide levels as can a high swell from some distant ocean storm.

High Each topo is marked with an approximate high tide level 0m Mother Carey's Mother tide using the indicator to the left. These are roughly aligned Covered to high spring tide levels hence there could be accessible ledges during neap Only accessible during below them during neap high tides. The sea could also reach higher low tide low spring tide levels than these indicators when it is rough.

28 Pembroke Climbing Gear

St. David'sSt. A suggested rack for Pembroke Take at least 2 sets, maybe three, of the smaller sizes. These are your Small-to medium wires bread and butter runners on most routes and a good selection is essential. Larger wires and hexes One set with some variety. Flimston BayFlimston A good selection of slings including some with thin tape for threads and Slings spikes. Take untied cord for replacing threads on the harder routes. A few of the middle sizes will be useful but there are fewer solid camming placements than in other UK areas areas, hexes tend to sit much better in

Mewsford Camming devices the convoluted and knobbly cracks here. Take some smaller technical cams for the harder routes. Very large cams will be dead-weight except on certain obvious routes with wide cracks. These are essential on (mostly hard) routes which tackle the very compact

Castle/Rusty Microwires grey rock - Misty Wall, Keelhaul Wall, Trevallen. Take plenty since you tend to place lots of them and they weigh virtually nothing. Take 12 to 16 quickdraws depending on the length of the pitch, and how much gear you usually place. The pitches are long and the lines weave so Quickdraws

Saddle Head Saddle make sure you have some long quickdraws to extend your placements and reduce rope drag which can be a big problem on the long pitches.

Fixed Gear A top-notch Pembroke peg. Bosherston Head Bosherston Pegs - Over the years many of the harder routes put up in Pembroke have been climbed using pegs for protection on the first ascent. Most of these pegs should now be regarded as untrustworthy and NO NEW PEGS SHOULD Huntsman's LeapHuntsman's BE ADDED TO THE CLIFFS IN PEMBROKE, this includes stainless steel pegs. For routes that still have pegs in them the slow process of re-climbing them without relying on the pegs as key runners is ongoing. Some of the routes Stennis/Chapel in Huntsman's Leap have been re-climbed and given new grades, others have been found to be the same grade. Many other routes with pegs have not been re-climbed and they are currently something of an unknown. We have

Trevallen listed such routes with their grades in brackets and commented in the descriptions about the state of the fixed gear. In all cases these routes will need re-climbing by someone up to the challenge to provide a new grade assessment which assumes the peg(s) are worthless. It would be St. Govan'sSt. great if climbers could adopt the quest to eliminate pegs from Pembroke in the same way that those of the 1970s and 1980s sought after free ascents of old aid routes. Threads - There are a lot of threads in Pembroke and they can be found on routes across the whole grade range. Threads tend to be more accepted than pegs since they use a natural feature without Mowing/Stackpole damaging the rock, and they are replaceable, however some climbers are also of the opinion that threads too should be removed. When you get to a thread, pull it around so that you can examine all of it and leave a different section in the rock. If you decide to replace a thread, remove all the old ones since one brand new thread is a lot better than 5 manky ones of different lengths. Stuck Wire - The last form of fixed gear is the accursed stuck wire. These little tinkers loiter around crux Mother Carey's Mother moves and see a lot of air time. Don’t trust them and get them out if you can. It is now clear that bolts don’t have any place in Pembroke, a fact which has been universally accepted by climbers of all ages and abilities. Gear Pembroke Climbing 29 Climbing Ropes The normal practice for leading routes is to use double 50m x 9mm ropes. This will enable you to follow the weaving lines with limited rope drag. Rope Buckets - One of the problems when at the cliff bases can be keeping your rope dry and away from St. David's rock pools or the sea. A useful tool for routes where you abseil in to a hanging stance is a rope bucket. You can feed your twinned 9mm ropes into the bucket before you abseil down and clip the bucket onto the belay. If you have done it right then the ropes will feed easily out of the bucket as the leader climbs.

Abseil Ropes Flimston Bay An abseil rope is virtually essential for Pembroke to reach the base of most of the cliffs and it is hardly ever possible to abseil on your climbing Mewsford ropes due to the belays being set well back from the edge. A single rope of 50m is the minimum require- ment but preferably 60m if you have one. Sport climbing single ropes Castle/Rusty that are no longer supple enough to lead climb on make good ab ropes usually but make sure they are still trustworthy, obviously! Many of the abseils are made of Saddle Head stakes hammered into the ground. There are now a lot of solid stakes in Pembroke but also a few old ones which are somewhat less inspiring - the photo above show both generations of Pembroke stake. Use your own judgement when abseiling and Bosherston Head always back-up a belay if you are unsure. Often when you arrive at your crag you may well find an ab rope in place. In such circumstances it is accepted practice to use ropes that are in place rather than clutter up belays with an extra rope. Huntsman's Huntsman's Leap Helmets and Loose Rock Many routes in Pembroke have loose rock on them, especially on their final sections. Always wear a helmet since rock can be dislodged at any time, and always put an extra runner in before you do the last moves, no matter how easy it looks. Test every hold and be especially careful early in the season, or on days after heavy rain. When belaying keep out of the fall zone when your leader is finishing a pitch. Stennis/Chapel

Other Gear More scary than sampling one of those Prussik Loops - A prussik loop is useful for dodgy jars from the back of the fridge! Trevallen protecting you when you abseil and having 2 is invaluable if you fall off when seconding a steep route, although make sure you know how to use them if you suspect you might struggle - learning 'on the job' is not much fun! St. St. Govan's Threads - If you are climbing harder routes then loose untied tape or cord is useful for replacing threads. Abseil Rope Protectors - These are useful for the clifftop edges particularly if the rope is going to see a lot of traffic ie. if you are first to arrive at St Mowing/Stackpole Govan's or the Leap. Mother Carey's 30 Pembroke Climbing Grades

The routes in this book are graded using the St. David'sSt. British Traditional Grading system. Some of the harder routes are given a sport grade in their descriptions, which is becoming more common these days amongst hard climbers.

Flimston BayFlimston This doesn't mean that the routes are 'sport routes', it is just used to give another impres- sion of the overall difficulty of the route.

British Trad Grade Mewsford 1) Adjectival grade (Diff, VDiff, Severe, Hard Severe (HS), Very Severe (VS), Hard Very Severe (HVS), E1 and upwards) How well protected a route is, how sustained

Castle/Rusty and a general indication of the level of difficulty of the whole route. 2) Technical grade (4a, 4b, 4c,..... to 7b) The difficulty of the hardest single move.

Saddle Head Saddle More information on grades: www.rockfax.com/publications/grades.html

Deep Water Solo Grades

Bosherston Head Bosherston A few routes in this book can be done as deep water solos - places like the East Face of the Castle and Blind Bay near Mother Carey's have such routes. They have mostly been given a Sport Grade and an S grade Huntsman's LeapHuntsman's within their descriptions. The simple S Grade consists of a 0, 1, 2 or 3. S0 gives relative safety, with S3 offering considerable possibility of injury in the event of a fall. The routes in this book that are mentioned Stennis/Chapel as possible deep water solos are almost all very hard and a degree of experience is essential if you intend to climb them un-roped. You will also need to pay particular attention to the tides since DWS in

Trevallen Pembroke requires high spring tides in most areas.

Colour Coding

St. Govan'sSt. The routes are all given a colour-coded dot corresponding to a grade band.

Green Routes - Everything at grade Severe and under. Good routes to start on especially on the St David's crags, Flimston Bay and Saddle Head, with a few classics at Mother Carey's as well. Mowing/Stackpole Orange Routes - HS to HVS inclusive. General ticking routes for those with more experience, a large range of excellent routes is available across this band.

Red Routes - E1 to E3 inclusive. Routes for the experienced and keen climber. Anyone operating at

Mother Carey's Mother this level can expect to enjoy some of the best sea cliff climbing in the world here in Pembroke.

Black Routes - E4 and above - the hard stuff! At this grade there is probably no where better for climbers to onsight hard trad routes.

32 Pembroke Climbing Graded List and Top 50

This graded list was compiled by careful analysis St. David'sSt. E4 Page of the grade voting on the Rockfax Route Database ** Ω Head Hunter...... 126 combined with feedback from a number of different *** Ω Hyperspace...... 222 climbers operating at different grades. As ever, the ** Ω Just Another Day...... 128 upper end of the list is more open to conjecture *** Ω Mother Night...... 223 * Ω Moving Away from the Pulsebeat . . . . . 131 Flimston BayFlimston though we have sought a consensus wherever *** Ω Wallbanger...... 67 possible. If you think there are errors in the graded * Ω Let Him Babble On...... 178 list, or you disagree strongly with it, then please let 4 Ω Tangerine Dream...... 185 us know via the voting on the Route Database on *** Ω Out for the Count...... 86 the web site - www.rockfax.com 4 Ω Under the Influence...... 86 ** Ω Body Language...... 190 Mewsford ** Ω Flash...... 142 4 Ω Page The Fascist and Me...... 165 E9 ** Ω Scorch the Earth...... 128 *** Ω The Big Issue ...... 112 *** Ω Witch Hunt...... 124 *** Ω Suspense ...... 151

Castle/Rusty E8 ** Ω The Rising Tide...... 181 Ω *** San Simian...... 98 4 Ω Bloody Sunday...... 128 Ω *** Chupacabra ...... 125 ** Ω Over the Hill ...... 86 Ω *** Point Blank ...... 150 *** Ω Downward Bound...... 87 4 Ω Nothing to Fear...... 124 4 Ω Brave New World...... 188 ** Ω Meet the Monster Tonight...... 133 Saddle Head Saddle E7 * Ω Charisma...... 178 *** Ω The Black Lagoon...... 124 4 Ω Trevallen Pillar...... 167 *** Ω Boat to Naxos...... 125 * Ω Poisoned Arrow...... 181 4 Ω Terminal Twilight...... 124 4 Ω Star Wars ...... 119 *** Ω Always the Sun...... 204 Bosherston Head Bosherston *** Ω From a Distance...... 150 4 Ω E3 The Great White ...... 224 4 Ω Test Case ...... 179 *** Ω Alien World/Blind Vision ...... 215 E6 4 Ω Pleasure Dome...... 144 *** Ω Stennis the Menace/The Great Elmyra. 144 *** Ω Plane Sailing...... 206 *** Ω Ghost Train...... 151 Huntsman's LeapHuntsman's 4 Ω Sunlover...... 160 ** Ω Boss Hogg ...... 161 ** Ω Merchant of Stennis ...... 147 4 Ω Souls...... 125 *** Ω Heaven’s Door...... 205 *** Ω Fireball XL5...... 223 4 Ω Swordfish ...... 206 *** Ω Grezelda, Grezelda...... 96 4 Ω Kitten Claws ...... 59 ** Ω The Pulsebeat...... 131 4 Ω Zeppelin ...... 217 4 Ω Orange Robe Burning...... 161 Stennis/Chapel ** Ω Billy Spragg...... 59 *** Ω Hunter-Killer ...... 124 ** Ω Forbidden Fruits ...... 191 ** Ω Strap-Up...... 131 E5 4 Ω Ghost Ship ...... 110 *** Ω Woeful...... 124 4 Ω Star Gate...... 220 ** Ω Snake Charmer...... 127 *** Ω Space Cadet...... 179 *** Ω Chasing Shade...... 87 *** Ω Gravy Train...... 99 Trevallen 4 Ω Yellow Pearls...... 161 ** Ω Howling Gale...... 191 ** Ω John Wayne ...... 178 *** Ω Play Misty for Me...... 94 *** Ω Grey English Morning...... 144 ** Ω Oratorio...... 95 4 Ω Barbarella...... 161 ** Ω The Voyage Out...... 72 *** Ω Beat Surrender...... 214 * Ω Range Rider...... 185 4 Ω Get Some In...... 182 St. Govan'sSt. ** Ω Deep Throat ...... 77 *** Ω Just Klingon...... 223 ** Ω Quiet Waters Direct...... 130 *** Ω White Heat ...... 224 ** Ω Wraith...... 217 *** Ω Circus Circus...... 93 *** Ω Mysteries...... 151 *** Ω Heat of the Moment ...... 87 Mowing/Stackpole 4 Ω Darkness at Noon...... 124 E2.5 *** Ω Dogs of Hoare...... 167 4 Ω The Butcher ...... 176 ** Ω Fitzcarraldo...... 130 *** Ω Ships that Pass in the Night...... 167 4 Ω The Minotaur...... 126 4 Ω Mean Feat...... 59 Mother Carey's Mother Graded List and Top 50 Pembroke Climbing 33 St. St. David's Flimston Flimston Bay Mewsford Castle/Rusty Saddle Head Bosherston Bosherston Head Huntsman's Huntsman's Leap Stennis/Chapel Trevallen St. St. Govan's Mowing/Stackpole Mother Carey's Barry Durston on the impressive Chupacabra (E8) - page 125 - in Huntsman's Leap. Photo: Ian Parnell 34 Pembroke Climbing Graded List and Top 50

St. David'sSt. E2 Page HVS Page * Ω Dire Straits ...... 142 ** Ω Blowin’ in the Wind ...... 197 ** Ω Ivory Tower...... 113 ** Ω The Hole...... 162 *** Ω Puritan...... 208 *** Ω Sunny Corner...... 114 *** Ω Charenton Crack...... 200 *** Ω Galactic Glory...... 99 ** Ω Mythical Monster...... 132 ** Ω Joyous Gard...... 217 Flimston BayFlimston ** Ω Hidden Secrets...... 188 ** Ω Tactitian...... 183 * Ω Anyone for Stennis...... 144 ** Ω Ethos...... 56 *** Ω Deranged ...... 184 ** Ω Cupids Bow...... 181 ** Ω War Crime...... 183 ** Ω Dreamboat Annie ...... 42 *** Ω Super Galactic Hammy...... 99 * Ω The Loosener...... 176 *** Ω Keelhaul ...... 111 * Ω Stennis Pillar...... 144 Mewsford 4 Ω Silver Shadow...... 206 *** Ω Pigs on the Wing...... 77 4 Ω Brazen Buttress...... 219 ** Ω Front Line ...... 174 ** Ω Intensive Scare...... 111 4 Ω Army Dreamers...... 175 4 Ω Chimes of Freedom...... 197 *** Ω Inner Space...... 220 4 Ω First Blood...... 190 ** Ω Hercules...... 142

Castle/Rusty ** Ω Herod ...... 219 ** Ω Galactic Co-ordinator ...... 76 4 Ω Deep Space ...... 220 4 Ω Riders on the Storm ...... 140 ** Ω Depraved...... 184 *** Ω Heart of Darkness...... 198 ** Ω The Honey Monster...... 133 ** Ω Bludgeon...... 147 ** Ω Ricochet ...... 181 *** Ω Welcome to the Cruise...... 76 4 Ω Bon Voyage...... 94 * Ω Crystal Edge...... 66 Saddle Head Saddle ** Ω Sunsmoke...... 217 * Ω Tinker Tailor...... 75 * Ω Vice is Nice...... 176 4 Ω Daydreams...... 73 VS ** Ω Ultravox...... 155 * Ω Flanker ...... 180 ** Ω Grey English Wimpout...... 144 4 Ω Armorican...... 53 Bosherston Head Bosherston * Ω Enter the Goat...... 162 * Ω Chieftain ...... 176 4 Ω Preposterous Tales...... 115 * Ω Crystal Arete...... 66 ** Ω The Beast from the Undergrowth . . . . . 131 ** Ω Aero...... 75 * Ω Crithmum ...... 217 E1 ** Ω Gone with the Wimp...... 113

Huntsman's LeapHuntsman's 4 Ω The Strait Gate...... 217 ** Ω Pink ‘Un...... 104 ** Ω Baker’s Door...... 111 * Ω The Gadfly ...... 66 *** Ω Surprise Attack...... 72 * Ω Limbo ...... 142 ** Ω Be Clever ...... 58 * Ω Razzle Dazzle...... 66 4 Ω Lucky Strike ...... 93 ** Ω Sea Groove...... 225 ** Ω Shape-Up...... 130 ** Ω The Meridian...... 217

Stennis/Chapel * Ω Kraken...... 179 * Ω No Hands ...... 104 *** Ω Wishful Thinking...... 89 4 Ω Blue Sky...... 102 ** Ω War Games...... 183 *** Ω Sealhunt...... 199 HS *** Ω Cool for Cats...... 143 ** Ω Stennis Arete...... 147 ** Ω Hangover ‘77...... 183 4 Ω Diedre Sud ...... 198 ** Ω Ultravixens ...... 155 4 Ω Myola...... 139 Trevallen ** Ω Solidarity...... 92 *** Ω Bow-Shaped Corner...... 65 ** Ω Beyond the Azimuth ...... 60 4 Ω Bow-Shaped Slab...... 65 * Ω But Incest is Best ...... 176 * Ω Nameless Wall ...... 104 4 Ω Manzoku...... 143 ** Ω Sea Mist ...... 104 ** Ω B-Team Buttress...... 75

St. Govan'sSt. 4 Ω Rock Idol...... 217 Severe * Ω Piggy’s Crack ...... 178 ** Ω Sheer Delight ...... 80 4 Ω The Arrow...... 181 ** Ω Red Wall...... 43 ** Ω Snozwanger ...... 197 * Ω Flake-Quake...... 104 * Ω Calisto...... 191 4 Ω Threadneedle Street...... 218 Mowing/Stackpole ** Ω Sinecure...... 57 ** Ω The Cracks...... 217 *** Ω Too Much Pressure...... 86 * Ω New Morning...... 198 VDiff 4 Ω Heart of Darkness/New Morning. . . .199 ** Ω Flimston Slab ...... 65 4 Ω Flimston Crack ...... 65 ** Ω The Crack...... 45 Mother Carey's Mother Graded List and Top 50 Pembroke Climbing 35 St. St. David's Flimston Flimston Bay Mewsford Castle/Rusty Saddle Head Bosherston Bosherston Head Huntsman's Huntsman's Leap Stennis/Chapel Trevallen St. St. Govan's Mowing/Stackpole

Julie Mair leading one of the best routes in the St David's area;

Armorican (VS) - page 53 - at Craig Caefai. Photo: Sarah Clough Mother Carey's 38 62 68 82 106 120 134 156 170 192 210 100 Page Summary The deep and narrow zawn is an iconic Pembroke landmark, thought by many to be one of the finest crags in the At country. E4 and above there is little to rival it. The base is tidal and the condi- tion of the rock can vary dramatically. An extensive headland and zawn, plus a less extensive cliff with a few good routes (and a restriction). The walk-in approach and non-tidal ledge make it one of the easiest places to get to and consequently very popular. A magnificent crag packed with stunning hard routes on some great rock formations. Less to offer in the mid-grades and Half nothing of easy. it is tidal, plus a small section has restrictions. The most popular crag in Pembroke with loads of quality routes at VS and above. Only a few routes affected by the tide. Plenty to keep you going for many visits. Also includes the quieter East crag with its good red and black spot routes. superb crags Two associated with late summer and autumn due to the restrictions. One is friendly and approachable with plenty in the orange and red spot grades, the other is huge and imposing and not for the faint-hearted. A superb and varied location with classic routes from Severe to E7! Great lines and exposure, plus plenty to do when the tide is in. Situated away from the main areas and virtually free of any restrictions. A series of fine south-facing slabby cliffs that run along the coast to the south west of St David's. The area features more lower grade routes than most cliffs in Pembroke and access is generally unrestricted. Three isolated slabs with plenty of low-to-mid grades routes, and one hard wall. A distant location and a dramatic setting. The furthest crag from the parking is well worth the walk. Mostly two pitch routes with steep starts and slabbier upper sections. Very atmospheric setting and two classics to keep you busy. Four compact venues each with a cluster of classics and its own character and conditions. The best routes tend to be in the mid and higher grades. Some tidal sections but plenty to do still. The best venue in south Pembroke for green and orange spot climbers. Many great routes on superb rock. It can get a bit busy at times. Tides only effect the starts of some routes. A huge headland offering great variety from VS upwards. Thin slabs, overhanging walls and exposed ribs, plus an outrageous caving expedi- tion. A few tidal routes only. Mid-week Mid-week Mid-week Mid-week Mid-week Mid-week Mid-week V V V V V V V V V Occasional Occasional not August not August not August not August not August not August not August not August Range 3 routes 3 routes Birds C C C C Chapel only 1 Mar-1 1 Aug Mar-1 1 Mar-1 1 Aug Mar-1 1 Mar-1 1 Aug Mar-1 1 Aug Mar-1 J J J J J J J J J J J Abseil Tides % % % % % % % % % % % Sun Y E E E E E E E E E E E 10 min 20 to 30 min 20 min 15 min 2 to 10 min 5 to 20 min 20 min 8 to 10 min 25 min 10 min 8 min 5 min Approach A A A A A A A A A A A A Shaded means that only some of the are tidal routes / an require abseil / are restricted - 7 3 3 3 3 33 17 12 15 15 35 22 34 37 29 333 333 333 333 333 333 333 333 E4 and up 3 3 9 3 9 3 33 33 33 33 18 16 12 40 30 30 26 25 333 333 333 333 333 333 E1 to E3 - Not worth a visit 7 - 7 3 3 6 7 9 3 33 33 33 33 10 10 15 13 22 20 36 333 333 333 333 333 HS HS to HVS - Okay 3 - - - - 7 7 7 7 7 7 3 3 2 4 3 8 3 2 2 33 33 33 - Good 19 333 33 up up to Sev - Excellent 19 58 48 62 44 21 40 46 92 34 73 Routes 100 333

Pembroke Crags Pembroke

Port Port Clais, Porth-y-Ffynon, Initiation Slabs, Craig Caerfai, Carreg-y-Barcud St St David's

Mother Carey's Mowing/Stackpole Stackpole Word, Mowing St Govan's, St St Govan's, Govan's East St St Govan's Trevallen Stennis Head, Stennis Ford, Stennis Head, Stennis Ford, Chapel Point Stennis/Chapel Huntsman's Huntsman's Leap

Bosherston Head Saddle Head The Castle, Rusty Walls, Misty Walls, Misty Walls, The Walls, Castle, Rusty Hollow Bay Caves Castle/Rusty

Mewsford Triple Crickmail Mewsford, Point, Overhang, Blockhouse to Bullslaughter

Flimston Slab, Bow-Shaped Slab, Flimston Slab, Crystal Wall MosaicSlab, Flimston Bay Flimston Quality and range grade bands: of in routes different 36 St. David's Flimston Bay Mewsford Castle/Rusty Saddle Head Bosherston Head Huntsman's Leap Stennis/Chapel Trevallen St. Govan's Mowing/Stackpole Mother Carey's Quality and range of routes in differentroutesin of bands: rangegrade and Quality Mother Carey's Mother Mowing Word,Stackpole Mowing/Stackpole East Govan's Govan's,St St Govan'sSt Trevallen PointChapel Ford,Stennis Head, Stennis Stennis/Chapel Huntsman'sLeap Head Bosherston Head Saddle CavesBay Hollow Rusty Castle,Walls, The Walls,Misty Castle/Rusty Bullslaughter to Blockhouse Overhang, Point, Mewsford, Crickmail Triple Mewsford Slab,Mosaic Wall Crystal Slab,FlimstonSlab,Bow-Shaped FlimstonBay Carreg-y-Barcud Caerfai, Craig Slabs, Initiation Porth-y-Ffynon,Clais, Port David's St

333 100 Routes 48 58 44 62 46 40 21 73 34 92 19 - Excellent- up to Sev to up 33 333 19 - Good - 33 33 33 2 3 4 8 2 2 3 3 3 7 7 7 7 7 7 - - - - 3 - Okay- HS to HVS to HS 333 333 333 333 333 22 20 36 13 15 10 10 33 33 33 33 6 3 9 7 3 3 7 - 7 - Not worth a visit a worth Not - E1 to E3 to E1 333 333 333 333 333 333 30 40 26 30 25 18 12 16 33 33 33 33 9 3 9 3 3 3 E4 and up and E4 333 333 333 333 333 333 333 333 22 35 29 37 34 12 15 17 15 33 3 3 3 3 7 - Shaded means that only some of the routes are tidal / require an abseil / are restrictedare / abseil requirean / routestidal arethe of some only that means Shaded A A A A A A A A A A A A Approach 20 to 30 min 30 to 20 min 20 min 20 to 5 10 min 10 min 25 min 10 to 8 min 5 min 10 to 2 min 8 min 10 min 15 min 20 E E E E E E E E E E E Y Sun % % % % % % % % % % % Tides Abseil J J J J J J J J J J J 1 Mar-1Aug 1 Mar-1Aug 1 1 Mar-1Aug 1 1 Mar-1Aug 1 Chapel only Chapel C C C C Birds 3 routes 3 routes 3

Range not August not August not August not August not August not not August not not August not August not Occasional Occasional V V V V V V V V V Mid-week Mid-week Mid-week Mid-week Mid-week Mid-week Mid-week tion of the rock can vary dramatically. vary can rock the of tion condi- the and tidal is base The it. rival to little is there above and E4 country.At the in crags finest the of one be to many by thought landmark, Pembroke iconic an is zawn narrow and deep The only.routes tidal few A tion. expedi- caving outrageous an plus ribs, exposed and walls overhanging slabs, Thin upwards. VS from variety great offering headland huge A routes. some of starts the effect only Tides times. at busy bit a get can It rock. superb on routes great Many climbers. spot orange and green for Pembroke south in venue best The still. do to plenty but sections tidal Some grades. higher and mid the in be to tend routes best The conditions. and character own its and classics of cluster a with each venues compact Four busy.you keep to classics two and setting pheric atmos- Very sections. upper slabbier and starts steep with routes pitch two Mostly walk. the worth well is parking the from crag furthest The setting. dramatic a and location distant A wall. hard one and routes, grades low-to-mid of plenty with slabs isolated Three unrestricted. generally is access and Pembroke in cliffs most than routes grade lower more features area The David's. St of west south the to coast the along run that cliffs slabby south-facing fine of series A restrictions. any of free virtually and areas main the from away Situated in. is tide the when do to plenty plus exposure, and lines Great E7! to Severe from routes classic with location varied and superb A faint-hearted. the for not and imposing and huge is other the grades, spot red and orange the in plenty with approachable and friendly is One restrictions. the to due autumn and summer late with associated Twocrags superb routes. spot black and red good its with crag East quieter the includes Also visits. many for going you keep to Plenty tide. the by affected routes few a Only above. and VS at routes quality of loads with Pembroke in crag popular most The restrictions. has section small a plus tidal, is it easy.of nothing Half and mid-grades the in offer to Less formations. rock great some on routes hard stunning with packed crag magnificent A popular. very consequently and to get to places easiest the of one it make ledge non-tidal and approach walk-in The restriction). a (and routes good few a with cliff extensive less a plus zawn, and headland extensive An Summary Page 210 192 170 156 134 120 106 100 62 38 82 68

Mother Carey's Mowing/Stackpole St. Govan's Trevallen Stennis/Chapel Huntsman's Leap Bosherston Head Saddle Head Castle/Rusty Mewsford Flimston Bay St. David's 94 49 87 98 95 88 89 60 42 77 42 42 60 60 60 66 76 99 56 65 65 93 80 99 48 57 191 168 150 224 167 184 133 119 119 159 147 110 184 223 130 142 162 220 144 165 116 104 220 174 102 162 104 190 104 198 110 198 116 161 218 162 180 188 184 168 220 174 181 184 142 176 116 178 191 ...... 40. . . 148. . . 231. 223. . . 220...... 38, 54...... 156, 164...... Fog Horn Blower Foot and Mouth. Forbidden Fruits. Fortune Cookie. From a Distance. Dog Nobbler. Dogs of Hoare Downward Bound Draught Dodger. Ducking Stool, The Eat, Drink and Beat Gary Empire Strikes Back, The. Fat Finger . Exercise Fetish. Fifty Lashes, Mister Christian. Fine Art of Surfacing, The. Fire Power Fireball XL5 First Impulse Fitzcarraldo Flash Daze of the . Weak Dead . Choughed Dead Ringer. Deep Space Diagnosis. Fascist and Me, The . Dayglow Dayglow . Saracen Forgotten Corner Fresh Air Finish, The Front Line. Double Corner Dreamboat Annie. Eaves Dripper. Energy Funnel, The Fel Gwyr. First Blood. Flake-Quake. Flax of Dream. Deep Throat. DEEsire Diagonal Crack. Diedre Sud. Frieze. Frigid Digits. Fulmar Pants Eight Gauge. Enter the Goat The Fermenting Telescope, First Corner First Corner Direct. Flanker. Flesh and Blood. Depraved Dinkum Wall Gadfly, The. Gadfly, Galactic Co-ordinator. Galactic Glory Galaxy Ethos Exit Corner. Flight Path Deranged. Dire Straits. Gandhi. Exogen. Flimston Crack. Flimston Slab. Flying Picket. Desire. Ganymede Eye Spy Faded Glory Gemini. . Corner Gentlemen’s E5 VS E3 E6 E7 E4 E5 E4 E5 E5 E6 E6 E5 E5 E4 E6 E3 E6 E4 E5 E4 E6 E6 E2 E4 E4 E2 HVD E2 HVS Sev HVS HVS E3 Diff E2 S E2 E2 E3 HVS S HS VS E2 HVS HVS E2 HVS VDiff VS VS E2 E2 E3 VS HVS HVS E3 HVS VDiff E3 E2 E2 VS E3 VDiff VDiff E1 E1 HS VS E3 VDiff VS

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89 66 59 67 72 87 93 59 72 52 75 66 66 94 65 65 65 45 52 86 73 80 48 75 46 80 48 45 45 87 131 205 125 190 175 161 206 164 168 179 178 176 125 176 140 124 188 209 196 175 104 104 174 197 191 102 219 184 199 176 176 102 209 181 176 117 143 200 200 165 184 200 217 196 217 ...... 33. . . 20. . . 71. 46. . . 100. . . 141. . . 213...... back cover, 177. back cover, ...... Crucifix, The. Daddy Cool Commoner’s Rights. Commoner’s Compulsion Critical Masses. Cruise to Hell. Call Up, The. Charisma Chartered Courses. Chasing Shade. Chieftain. Chupacabra Circus Circus Clean Hand Blues Band Boat to Naxos Body Language Bomb Scare. Boss Hogg. Break of Dawn. Breaking the Habit. Bristol Cream. Brown Bess By Popular Demand. Byrn, The. C++ Darkness at Noon Brave New . World Condor. Crunchy. Crystal Arete Crystal Edge. Crystal Grazer Bomb Bay Bon Voyage Bow-Shaped Corner. Bow-Shaped Slab. Brass in Pocket Breaking Wind. Brown Slab Buff The Candlestick Maker, Chimes of Freedom Caerfai Crack Calisto Blue . Lagoon Davy Crocket Daydreams. Brazen Buttress Conscientious Objector Culinary Delights But Incest is Best. Cannonball . Express Capricorn. Catch Centurion. Chinon. Chopping Block Blue Sky. Consolation Cupids Bow Butcher, The. . Butcher, Chakademus and Pliers. Cool for Cats The Curver, Charenton Crack Coriolis Affair, The. Coriolis Affair, D-Day. Cormorant Flake. Cormorant Front Crack, The Cracked Wall Cracks, The Cripple Creek. Crises. Crithmum. VS E8 E6 E6 E4 E5 E4 E4 E5 E5 VS E8 E5 E1 E7 E4 E4 E6 E5 E7 E6 E4 E4 VS HVS E5 E4 E3 VS VS HVS E2 VS E2 HS HS S E1 HS VDiff E1 E2 HS E1 E1 HVS E2 E2 E3 E2 E1 HVS HS VS Sev HVS VS VS E1 HVS E3 E1 E1 VS E2 E2 E2 VS VDiff VDiff VS Sev E2 E3 VS

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60 89 88 88 58 58 58 58 58 96 59 59 59 97 53 86 75 53 53 57 42 88 86 58 60 45 86 86 75 44 48 48 183 214 140 119 112 112 159 124 190 214 111 200 214 209 191 185 215 196 111 204 215 184 167 215 128 161 147 138 139 199 138 175 131 113 215 144 197 155 181 204 188 175 ...... 74. 48. . 128. . . 170. . . 120. . . 181...... 35, 53...... 192, 201...... Route Route Index ...... Blucher. Black Lagoon, The. Black Man Ray. Black Rambo Big Issue, The The Big Softy, Bitch, The. Beyond the Beyond Big C Big in America. Beat Surrender. Baker’s Door Baker’s Barbecuing Traditions Aristocrat. Bastille. Be Brave. Be Careful Be Clever Be Reckless. Be-bop-a-lula. Beak, The. All or . Nothing Always the Sun Anti Matterhorn, The Alamo, The. Alien World Direct All at Sea All Hands on Deck. Airdrawn Dagger Abyss, The. Adam Adamant Rib. Adam’s A Head in the Clouds. A Shot in the Dark Abandon Ship Abduction Finish Bloody Sunday. Barbarella. Bludgeon Bedrock Big Sea Running Billy Spragg. Black Box, The. Black Cat Blind Magic Armorican Army Dreamers Beast from the Undergrowth, ...... Acropolis Aero. Age Concern Age Gap. Agent Orange. Agent Orange. Alien World/Blind Vision All Lines Engaged Anniversary Waltz Anyone for Stennis Abseil Groove. Blowin’ in the Wind Beeline. Beyond the Azimuth. Blockheads. Arrow, The. Arrow, Apex Arete. Aprodite. Blood and Flesh. . Atmospheric Tent Direct Atmospheric Tent Buttress B-Team The Baker, Aquaplane Aquarian. Aries.

E5 E7 E4 E5 E9 E7 E5 E5 E1 E6 E5 E1 E5 E5 HVS E1 E1 E1 E2 E1 VS E6 E7 E6 E4 E4 E5 E5 E8 E7 E5 E4 E4 E5 E5 E4 E4 E5 HVS E2 E1 E3 E3 E3 E1 VS HVS E2 E3 VS E3 E2 VS E3 E3 HS E3 E2 S HVS E1 E1 E2 E1 VDiff HVS E2 HVS E1 E1 E2 E1 VDiff VS

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226 St. David's Flimston Bay Mewsford Castle/Rusty Saddle Head Bosherston Head Huntsman's Leap Stennis/Chapel Trevallen St. Govan's Mowing/Stackpole Mother Carey's Trevallen best attempted at high tide. Photo: Ian Parnell Ian Photo: tide. high at Trevallenattempted best at block the of traverse a (E3) Block the Around Rock

Route Index Route 227

Mother Carey's Mowing/Stackpole St. Govan's Trevallen Stennis/Chapel Huntsman's Leap Bosherston Head Saddle Head Castle/Rusty Mewsford Flimston Bay St. David's 67 92 59 72 96 86 86 67 93 94 52 95 80 58 77 42 53 57 57 72 81 160 168 159 142 150 181 124 183 112 200 174 214 208 139 191 223 131 110 124 161 224 178 114 185 200 142 117 196 139 175 209 185 144 104 104 155 208 191 139 104 115 219 176 139 206 151 204 132 114 185 198 ...... 3. . . 82. . . 11. . . 79. 150. 215. 134...... Pearl Powder. Perth Pink Physical Jerks ...... Plankwalk...... Point Blank...... Poisoned Arrow. Poles Apart ...... Naddyn. Night-Seeker Nightmare on Lily Street ...... Land. No Man’s . . . . Obsession Box, The...... Ocean Drive...... Olive Branch...... On Wenlock Edge. One-eyed Man, The . . . Oranges and Lemons. . . . . Out for the Count. Out of my Mind ...... Over the Hill. Paint by Numbers Mother India Mother Night Moving Away from the Pulsebeat ...... Muppet The. Show, Mutiny on the Bounty Nothing to Fear Orange Robe Burning Petit Blanc ...... Crack. Piggy’s . . . . . Play Misty for Me. Poltergeist ...... Nameless. Nightmare Nijinsky North Corner ...... Ocean Passage. Onion Eaters, The Oratorio ...... Oversight...... Panzer II. Mother Trucker Fine Mrs Damson Pearson’s Jam ...... Mural Landscape. My Back Pages Photocall . . . . . Pigs on the Wing. . . . . Pleasure Dome...... Porth-Clais Crack...... Nameless . Wall ...... No Hands...... Octobrina...... Orogeny. Parliamentarian Mud Pie Eye in Your ...... Myola. Pink ‘un Preposterous Tales ...... Narrow Carriage...... Octopus. Pass the Parkin on the LH Side ...... Munchies...... Myopia...... Plain Sailing...... Nearly a Whisper...... Mysteries...... Planet . Waves ...... Neptune...... Mythical Monster...... Neurosis. New Lookout Arete ...... New Morning. E6 E4 E5 E5 E8 E4 E4 E5 E6 E5 E4 E6 E6 E4 E4 E5 E6 E4 E5 E4 E4 E4 E4 E4 E6 E6 E8 E6 E2 E1 E3 HVS VS HVS E1 VDiff VS E3 E3 Sev HVS HVS E3 E3 E1 E2 HVS E3 HS HS VS E2 E2 E3 HVS HS VS E2 E1 E3 E3 HVS VS E3 E3 E3 E2 HVS E2 E2 E3 E1

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94 97 80 96 72 97 72 95 96 59 94 80 81 75 93 75 56 60 59 88 58 95 58 73 66 52 159 110 144 155 132 132 132 130 164 133 184 178 191 128 168 223 224 223 178 138 124 124 119 159 126 143 168 132 217 189 174 218 174 179 206 142 144 140 117 147 147 111 176 217 102 174 140 ...... 62. 186. 126. 172. . . . 90, 93...... Monster in a Box. Monster Modello from Monster-growth the Underbeast ...... Monsterosity Magazine People . . . . . Man from Uncle. Man Overboard ...... Mean Streak. Meaning of Life, The Meet the Monster Tonight Missing Lynx Mission Impossible Mistress of the Sea . . . . Laughing Hygena, The. . . . . Let Him Babble On. . . . . Let Me Down Easy. Life Jacket Light at the End of the Runnel ...... Little Hunt Love Bear My Teddy Luke Skywalker Lure of the Sea, The Mad Death, The ...... John . Wayne Jolly Silly Billy Arete Juicy Lucy . . . . . Just Another Day...... Just Another Dog...... Just Klingon. Killer White . . . . Out!. Knock Yourself Jabberwock ...... Joan. Mean Feat . . . . . The. Minotaur, Manzoku ...... Misty Arete. Monster Mash, The ...... Mother Carey. Mercenary, The Mercenary, . . . . . Jolly Sensible Arete...... Joyous Gard. Just an Illusion Just Before Dark Karma Waters ...... Kinvig. Kraken ...... Leap Frog...... Limbo...... Loco Dementia...... Lucky Find...... Lundy Road. . . . . Maelstrom Chimney. Jogger, The Jogger, ...... Marathon. . . . . Merchant of Stennis...... Mombasa...... Just Fits...... Keelhaul...... Kitten Claws. Kramer vs Kramer Left Edge The Loosener, . . . . Lucky Strike. Master Blaster ...... Meridian, The. Landvetter Lemming Way Metamorphosis ...... Lateral Bearings. Michelangelo ...... Middle C. Mildred Mindwarp E7 E5 E5 E5 E5 E6 E5 E5 E4 E4 E4 E5 E4 E6 E4 E5 E6 E6 E6 E4 E5 E5 E5 E5 E4 E4 E5 E5 E6 E6 E5 E4 E5 E5 E1 Sev E3 VS E3 E1 HVS E3 E1 E1 E1 E1 E3 VS E3 HVS E2 Sev HVS HVS E3 E1 HVS HVS E2 E3 E1 VDiff HVS E1 E2 VS VS Sev HS E2 VS HVS HS

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60 96 87 60 93 98 48 57 42 59 93 42 42 65 92 45 57 99 199 119 205 159 168 217 168 209 189 124 222 151 111 189 204 199 179 144 126 206 162 126 183 151 189 224 182 189 111 113 188 142 162 191 198 144 164 183 198 205 104 155 110 104 116 133 199 142 162 220 219 144 104 219 113 ...... 85. 163. 202...... Route Route Index ...... Iron Maiden. In the Heat of the Night ...... Insignificance...... In One Door...... In Orbit. Hyperspace Hysteria ...... I See No Ships. . . . . I’m Not Addicted.... Imagination Immortality Hotspur ...... Hunter-Killer High Pressure Hindenburg . . Honeymoon Killers, The...... Honeypot. Heugamont ...... Head Hunter. . . . Heat of the Moment. Grey English Morning . . . . Grezelda, Grezelda. Half Man, Half Beast ...... Hammerhead. . . . . Hands of the Hunter. Greased Lightning ...... Great Dane...... Get Out of That!. Ghost Train Ghostly Galleon . . . . . Gilded Moments...... Gerbil, The. Great White, The ...... Get Some In. In Your Dreams In Your Intensive Scare Ivory Tower ...... Hidden Secrets. Highland Fling Hole, The Howling Gale Hypocrite, The ...... Ice Breaker. . . . . Grey English Wimpout. Gypsy Lane ...... Hangover ‘77. Heart of Darkness Door Heaven’s Glaze Crack Great Valerio, The Get on Lord ...... Green Peace...... Ghost Ship. Infra Red High Life . . . . The. Honey Monster, Happy Go Lucky FInish Heart of Darkness/New Morning ...... Hercules Goats that Go Gnash in the Night ...... Inner Space Harbour Crack ...... Herod. Gold Fever ...... Inset...... Haze...... Heroes. Gone with the Wimp ...... Inset Slab. Good Luck, Mr Gronski ...... Grab the Slab...... Granny Basher...... Gravy Train E4 E5 E4 E5 E5 E4 E5 E4 E6 E4 E5 E5 E6 E4 E7 E5 E5 E5 E4 E5 E5 E6 E6 E5 E4 E4 E4 E4 E6 E4 E5 HVS E7 E5 E3 E2 E2 E2 HS HVS E3 E3 E3 E2 HVS E1 HVS E3 HS E1 E2 E1 E3 Sev E1 E2 E3 E1 HVS E3 HVS VDiff E2 E2 S VS E2 VS HS E2 E1 HVS E3

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228 St. David's Flimston Bay Mewsford Castle/Rusty Saddle Head Bosherston Head Huntsman's Leap Stennis/Chapel Trevallen St. Govan's Mowing/Stackpole Mother Carey's Mike Weeks tackles the sensationally-positioned the tackles Weeks Mike (E5) - (E5) Undertone

- Rusty Walls. Photo: Ian Parnell Ian Photo: Walls. Rusty - 92 page Route Index Route 229

Mother Carey's Mowing/Stackpole St. Govan's Trevallen Stennis/Chapel Huntsman's Leap Bosherston Head Saddle Head Castle/Rusty Mewsford Flimston Bay St. David's 89 67 92 52 80 72 86 97 48 42 48 87 72 52 56 97 97 80 89 76 53 57 52 183 223 208 159 189 131 183 220 220 150 224 127 189 128 124 128 124 223 176 139 167 161 161 191 112 183 116 196 142 104 155 217 176 144 117 155 217 155 185 104 130 204 219 191 ...... 68. . . . 123. . . 229. 160. . . 205...... cover flap...... You Got Me You Into This!. Zoony. Utter . Anarchy Vengeance . Versaille Vision On. Vladimir on the Rocks. . Wallbanger War Crime Warp Factor. Warp Gate Warsaw Pact, The White Heat. White Hotel, The White Rhino. Wicked Witch of the West Witch Hunt. The Witching Hour, Woeful Try to Imagine Try Drowning Unconscious Undertone Unknown Sentry Unreasonable . Stipulations Up Against the . Wall Two Men and Two a Scrote. Trevallen Pillar Trevallen Yellow Pearls. Yellow Under the Influence. . Trefoil Youth on Fire. Youth Vanishing Vanishing Crack. Vegetable Rights Versary Slab. Goat, The Vicar’s Vista. Voyage Out, The Wage War War Games Wavelength White Wall Widowmaker Woodentops, The. World War III Blues. Urchin Ultravixens. . Triad . Trihedral Delight Trucker’s Zeppelin. Vice is Nice Walk on the Wild Side Warm Waves . Weekend Warrior Wishful Thinking Wraith Ultravox. Zero Hour. Welcome Welcome to the Cruise. Wetstone Wrap-Up Uncertain Smile. Whaler, The Whaler, Edge. Yellow Whirlwind. Whispering Wind. White Corner E5 E5 E6 E4 E4 E5 E4 E4 E2 E5 E5 E5 E5 E6 E5 E6 E4 E6 E5 E5 E6 E5 HVS HVS HVS HVS E4 E5 E4 E2 E3 S VS S E2 E2 E3 E3 E1 E3 HS E3 E2 HVS S E1 E2 E1 VS E3 E2 E3 VS E3 E1 E3 E2 HVS HVS S E3 E2 E2 HS E1 E1 Diff

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57 66 45 59 89 99 89 59 75 59 75 86 86 60 98 52 75 81 58 92 72 92 98 72 214 117 162 144 181 126 151 217 126 196 223 191 130 104 127 197 130 185 124 125 119 188 139 168 160 206 218 206 168 111 114 179 179 147 114 217 183 174 219 147 104 131 209 142 217 139 197 144 144 220 ...... 1. . . 57 195. . . 109. . . 219. . . 178. . . 210...... 106, 114...... Sixth Crack. Slab Recess. Toffee Nose Toffee Wind. Trade and Mystery. Tragedy Man. Travellin’ Suspense. Cheap. Talk’s Theseus. Thrift Tie Me to Tree the Tyburn Tiger Tiger Tranquilizer Trapdoor Stennis the Menace/The Great Elmyra ...... Stupid Cupid Subterranean, The Slap-Up/Fitz-In. Sledgehamer Slipway Small Beginnings. Snake Charmer Snap Crackle ‘n’ Splash. Snap, Popple and Crack. Snozwanger. Specimen Hunter. Silent . Running Tangerine Dream Tangerine Twilight Terminal Star . Wars Souls . Sideshow Too Little Too Much Pressure Too Action. Traction Stingray. Storm Bird. Storm Trooper Submarine Slab. Sunlover. Swordfish. Threadneedle Street. . Tinker Tailor Silver Shadow Soldier of Fortune Springboard. Telekinesis Case Test Space. Space Cadet. Starling by the Seaside Stennis Arete. Strait Gate, The Sunny Corner. Tactitian Sinecure. Solidarity Somnambulist Stacked Against. . Tempest Stennis Chimney Sunset Boulevard. Strap-Up Stackpole Grooves. Stennis Elbow Sunsmoke Strike Lucky. Stuntsman. Stand by to Boogie Stennis Pillar Super Galactic Hammy Superbrat. Star Gate Surprise Attack VS S E5 E4 E4 E4 E4 E4 E6 E6 E4 E5 E5 E2 E6 E5 E6 E5 E6 Sev VDiff E5 E4 VS E1 E5 E4 E4 E7 E4 E6 VS VS E1 E3 E2 E1 E2 VS E3 E3 Sev HVS E2 E1 E1 HVS E3 HVS E3 E2 HS E1 HVS HVS E1 E1 E2 VS E1 Sev HVS E3 HVS E2 E2 E1 E2 E3 HVS E2 E2 E3 E1

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72 42 95 98 67 46 95 52 86 80 60 86 44 67 42 49 98 45 81 81 93 60 98 66 43 43 43 167 184 189 128 189 196 205 179 130 175 181 167 174 150 191 133 168 131 112 196 175 217 224 142 130 181 155 208 225 174 204 114 140 104 164 185 198 200 189 182 199 174 200 199 198 168 191 209 ...... 225. . . 136. . . . . Cover...... Route Route Index ...... Ship of Fools Shot by Both Sides Shining, The. Ships that Pass in the Night Sharp Shooter Seaside Salamander. Second Shadow. Semaphore Signals Shadow Boxer Shape-Up. Savage, The. Scorch the Earth Sea Fever. Sachsenring. San Simian. Sandbagged. Rising Tide, The. Release the Bats Questions and . Answers Quiet Please. Private . Schultz Public . Anenome Pulsebeat, The. Punks in Room the Tea Shiraz. Shot Across the Bows. Scorch Scorch Groove. Sea Goon. Seulement Sheer Delight. Shelf Life Shell Shock Rizla. Rock Idol. Sackless. Quickstep. Quiet Waters Direct Ricochet. Promised Promised Hand Puritan. Sea Groove Rock-a-Block. Salty Dog. Quoin. Riders on the Storm Purple People Eater. Sea Mist. Rollerwall. Romany. Range Rider. Right Wall, The Sea Rider. Seal Rosary. Round the Horn. Raw Recruits. Ringolino. Rising Damp Rising Damp Seal of Approval. Rub-a-Dub-Dub. Razor’s Edge, The Razor’s Sealhunt. Running Bear. Rust. Rust Never Sleeps. S .L .R .. Razorbill. Razzle Dazzle. Reach for the Sky Rear Wind Red Adair. Red October. Red Wall Red Wall . Right-Hand

HS E5 E4 E5 E4 E5 E5 E4 E5 E1 E4 E4 E5 E5 E8 VS E4 E5 E4 E5 E4 E5 E6 E5 E1 E3 Diff HVS HVS Sev E3 VS HVS E1 E1 VS E3 E2 E2 E2 VS HVS E3 HS HVS HVS HS E3 E3 E3 HVS VS VS HS E2 E3 E3 Diff HVS E3 E2 HVS E1 HS E3 E3 E2 VS VS E3 HVS S E3 S HS

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230 St. David's Flimston Bay Mewsford Castle/Rusty Saddle Head Bosherston Head Huntsman's Leap Stennis/Chapel Trevallen St. Govan's Mowing/Stackpole Mother Carey's Route Index 231 St. St. David's Flimston Flimston Bay Mewsford Castle/Rusty Saddle Head Bosherston Bosherston Head Huntsman's Huntsman's Leap Stennis/Chapel Trevallen St. St. Govan's Mowing/Stackpole

Jack Geldard sprinting on The Fine Art of Surfacing (E6) - page 99 - in Hollow Caves Bay. Photo: Dave Pickford Mother Carey's 16 16 14 28 22 29 26 32 226 194 210 192 212 194 156 202 158 172 172 186 170 22, 24 Tenby . . . . . St Govan's East Beach ...... cover cover flap P ...... Saundersfoot A478 Narberth ...... Beach ...... Broad Haven ...... Pubs Rack Range East Firing Restrictions Ropes Index Route Take-aways key Topo/symbol Tides 50 Top Information Tourist Lydstep Trevallen Map Trevallen St Govan's Map St Govan's St Govan's St East Govan's P A477 car park 6 4 Mother Carey's . Map Mother Carey's St Govan's 16 14 16 30 28 28 32 30 22 Mowing/Stackpole Map Mowing/Stackpole Word Mowing Stackpole Manorbier 136 152 148 136 134 A40 A4139 ...... Bay ...... Barafundle Pembroke Bosherston ...... 122 120 ...... Pembrokeshire Stackpole Dock West . . . . Introduction Mobile Phones Fixed Gear Fixed Food Gear Graded List Grades Guidebooks MOD Town Pembroke Colour Colour Coding Pembroke Haverford Stennis/Chapel Stennis/Chapel Map Chapel Point Stennis Ford Stennis Head 8 10 14 18 16 14 16 22 24 23 36 ...... A477 St Petrox ...... 108 106 ...... A4076 Bosherston . . 82 84 96 94 90 84 102 100 ...... A487 ...... Castlemartin Huntsman's Leap Huntsman's Leap Map ...... Haven Milford Access Acknowledgments Accommodation Advertiser Directory Beaches Birds BMC Cafes Camping Climbing Gear Shops Table Crag Angle Castle/Rusty Castle/Rusty Map Bay Hollow Caves MistyWalls Walls Rusty The Castle Saddle Head . Map Saddle Saddle Head Bosherston Head Bosherston Head Bosherston Map Freshwater West Dale 74 76 81 81 68 70 70 80 Newgale Sands ...... 50 38 38 54 47 40 44 66 65 67 62 64 65 . . . . . A487 General General Index and Map ...... In Emergency Dial 999 and ask for About 1km Bay About10km Flimston car park

Triple Overhang Triple . . Space Bull Sitting Mewsford Map Mewsford Mewsford Blockhouse Crickmail Point Mewsford St David's Stack Rocks

P 'MILFORD HAVEN COASTGUARD' 'MILFORD HAVEN Bay Initiation Slabs St David's St David's Map Carreg-y-Barcud Craig Caerfai Porth-Clais . Porth-y-Ffynnon Flimston Flimston Slab Wall Mosaic Flimston Flimston Map Slab Bow-Shaped Crystal Slabs Flimston Flimston Bay Whitesands 232 St. David's Flimston Bay Mewsford Castle/Rusty Saddle Head Bosherston Head Huntsman's Leap Stennis/Chapel Trevallen St. Govan's Mowing/Stackpole Mother Carey's