EBRUARY, 1917. PRICE, 25 CENTS A COPY. $2.00 A YEAR.
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HAWAII S FLOWER, THE HIBISCUS
It SEE THE MOST BEAUTIFUL VARIETIES IN NATURAL COLORS IN THIS ISSUE.
ol. XIII. No. 2. HONOLULU, HAWAII. Speedy Trains in New South Wales The Mother State of the Australian Commonwealth.
The World's Famous Railway Bridge Over the Hawkesbury River, N. S. W.
All the year round New South Wales is railway bridge. Here is to be found the best place for the tourist. From, Syd- glorious river, scenery as well as excellent ney and New Castle, as well as from points fishing and camping grounds. By rail also in other states, there are speedy trains, with is reached the splendid trout fishing streams comfortable accommodations, at very cheap of New South Wales, stocked with fry. rates to the interesting points of the Mother yearling and two year old trout. State of the Australian Commonwealth. Beautiful waterfalls abound throughout Within a few hours by rail of the metrop- the state and all beauty spots are reached olis of Sydney are located some of the most after a few hours' comfortable trip from wonderful bits of scenery in the world. It is but a half afternoon's train ride to the beautiful Blue Mountains, particularly fa- Steamship passengers arriving at Sydney mous for the exhilarating properties of at- disembark at Circular Quay. Here the mosphere. Here and in other parts of the city tramways (electric traction) converge, state are the world's most wonderful arid and this is the terminus of thirty routes, beautiful limestone caverns. Those of varying from two to eleven miles in •length. Jenolan are known by fame in every land. One of the best means of seeing the pic- Reached by the south coast railways are turesque views and places of interest about the surf bathing and picnicing resorts famed Sydney is to travel around them all by elec- throughout Australia and even abroad. tric tram. The cost is trifling, as the fares on Within a score of miles= of Sydney is the the state railways are low. The secretary beautiful Hawkesbury river and its great of the railway system is J. S. Spurway. ) IP ) W, -- — n_... I.../. ..._n. •■•• ,,,T.,,/, ,,,,-, , ERAITA
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z- -4r gith_trarifir fitagaztur . ii- CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD VOLUME XIII. NUMBER 2. 44 €. *4 . CONTENTS FOR FEBRUARY, 1917. • 4. Our Art Gallery. Jack London in Hawaii - - - - - - - 117 War's Peace Sermon to the Pacific - - - - 129 Troubles Galore in the Solomons - - - - - 133 (Log of the Snark) I By Charmian Kittredge London Lii The Original Americans - - - - - - - 139 E. By W. E. Priestley E. 4. Around Maui in Patches - - - - - - 145 ra- By E. S. Goodhue, M. D. • Singapore and Johore - - - - - - - 149 . From the Editor's Diary Panama's New Railway - - - - - - 153 By Wm. A. Reid, of the Pan-American Union Staff. 1'40 Random Rambles in Kohala, Hawaii - - - - - 157 By L. W. de Vis-Norton • The Story of Tawera - - - - - - - 163 4. As told by Maki 4 America in the Far East - - - - - - - 167 t By Kirk Munroe D Yol.... Just About Honolulu - - - - - - - 171 3_, 4' K A few points of interest ei. K Fashions in Japan - - - - - - - - 173 w. E By T. Hayashi :4 ix An Economic Study of Hawaii - - - - - 177 Ii • By A. P. Taylor 5 China's Victory Over Opium - - - - - - 181 • By General L. Chang 1,4 The Blue Mountains of New South Wales - - - 185 t By C. R. Hogue '4 •1 • On the Garden Island - - - - - - - 189 g .3 By Lun Chang r • t The Life History of an Island - - - - - - 195 • '... By Vaughan MacCaughey ;11. E S ik Encyclopdiaw and Guide to Hawaii and the Pacific. lei 1.4 F. r= TO J' i: th-rarifir i'l. agazittr . E Published by ALEXANDER HI ME FORD, Honolulu, T. H. • Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, .Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, $ $2.00 in advance. Canada and Mextco, $2.50. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25c. • Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice. • 5 Permission is given to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit is given. *1 ,.... chwaykverriarivirwrearadvd iveatedytow • • • • t • •troatiourailwa-itit4-Agiver4iti The indigenous White Hibiscus, named after Ruth Wilcox.
The White Hibiscus may be said to be the floral emblem of Honolulu, as the red variety (shown on the cover) is the flower of Hawaii Island. The White Hibiscus is truly indigenous to the country about Honolulu and grows wild in the mountains' back of the city. YYLM 0.1,JSAAL ALA PN3 A blended Hibiscus, with parents of orange and cerise.
Instead of fences in Honolulu, hedges of red Hibiscus separate the lots and holdings of land in the city, so that often for nearly a mile may be seen walls of this ever-blooming flower of the land. Of late hybrid varieties have begun to vary the usual red. The Semidouble Salmon-ddaed Hibiscus.
The Hibiscus of Hawaii is to be one of the leading features in the 1917 Mid-Pacific Carnival in Honolulu. There will be a Hibiscus show, and in the Pan-Pacific Pageant of February 19th there will be 100 children of all races costumed to represent the known varieties of Hibiscus in Hawaii. The large Double Red Hibiscus.
fl Hibiscus Club has been formed in Honolulu to promote a better knowl- edge of the methods of growing Hibiscus, to add materially to the beauty and attractiveness of the city. There is a possibility of Hawaii becoming as well known through her Hibiscus as Japan is through her cherry blossom and chrysanthemum. One of the beautiful Velvet Red Hibiscus.
Bs fences are becoming things of the past in Hawaii, beautiful Hibiscus hedges are used, and sometimes one may see as many as a dozen varieties of many shades and shapes blooming side by side in a space of twenty feet. 1913.
One of a variety of the Coral Hibiscus. The above flower resembles closely a piece of delicate pink coral. The series of floats decorated with many 'varieties of Hawaii's Flower—the Hibiscus—will be most attractive, and this will be a feature of the coming Mid-Pacific Carnival in Honolulu. A new blend, the beautiful Woodrow Wilson Hibiscus.
One of the most delicate of the new varieties of Hawaiian Hibiscus has been named in honor of the President, and as many men and women in Hawaii are experimenting in their gardens, more wonderful results in Hibiscus are sure to accrue. 1913.
Another new variety of Hibiscus, as yet unnamed.
Experimenting with the Hibiscus has become a popular, fascinating fad among lovers of Nature in Hawaii. Most remarkable are some of the color effects which result, and visitors to the city are always welcome at the Government Experiment Sta- tion as well as at private gardens. OS
Another experiment in crossing Hibiscus.
Visitors to Hawaii and discriminating residents, almost without exception, agree that the Hibiscus is the most satisfactory and prettiest of all Hawaiian flowers. Certainly, taking the place of fences, it lends an added attractiveness to the streets of the city. PIA 1.1),1.4. )113
The delicate Double Peachblow Hibiscus.
The Hibiscus is indigenous to the Hawaiian Islands. Much interest is being taken in hybridizing it by plant experts from all over the world. By cross-pollination, over one thousand varieties of the Hibiscus have been produced. The delicate shades of some of these are beautiful in the extreme. The Orange Hibiscus, Gert Ivers.
The Hibiscus blooms practically the year round in Hawaii, but during February, March and April the flowers are more abundant, as this is Hawaii's rainy season. (It rains at night in Hawaii.) Then the beautiful fresh blooms of all shades, shapes and sizes may be seen at their best. A lighter yellow, the Hibiscus Brackenridgei. Five or ten acres of park area carefully planted with thousands of varieties of Hibiscus, and brought to a high state of cultivation, would be one of the botanical wonders of the world, and the idea is not altogether remote, for the Federal Experiment Station is making a start in this. Yrull Qum,. 19D A variation from imported Hibiscus.
Even the most experienced workers with the hibiscus can very seldom tell what shade or shape will result from the hybridizing of two varieties, and this is one reason why the work is so fascinating. A species of Hibiscus introduced from Jamaica.
A very pretty result of cross-pollination is the variety shown above. It has vigorous growth and branches freely. In hybridizing it is used as a male parent. Thousands of Hibiscus blossoms of all shades will be used to decorate the floats in the Pan-Pacific Pageant, which is to open the Annual Mid-Pacific Carnival this February. NIGHT-BLOOM, PUNAHOU
0 do you know That stone wall's greener by day, By night a cloud, a milky way Not stars, but like the broidered grace Of flowers that weave a scarf of lace Apart, apart from glare of day? Who ever had so grand a lei As Punahou? —Philip Henry Dodge. 0.11r fitiblittriftr ftlagazittr CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD
...... ,...... ,...r.1..1.11aleotommoott.i1.■■■■■utoloollub.111.11.11111....111.11.13.11111,11.1411.11■1104.1.11.1.1.14.1.0.10,.11,111.11011111111...011.1.0111.13,111.111111.11.11111411111111111.111111111111.11.1111.1.11.111111111111111r..1.1111.4.1111111111.1111.11pitillimmilimmounm.Imt.■■■••••■■•••11....“1.1141,...... 111..mos VOLUME XIII FEBRUARY, 1917. NUMBER 2.
Jack London, Lorrin Thurston and J. P. Cooke.
Jack London in Hawaii Rambling Reminiscences of the Editor
FIRST met Jack London on the young man huddled up beside a slim, lanai of the old Royal Hawaiian girlish woman (Charmian, his mate). "I I Hotel. It was ten years ago, he was came here first and I'm not going to still young in his glory, and I having not leave. My name is Ford; Aloha (wel- yet abandoned writing for the English come). You, too, will stay—it will get and American reviews and magazines.to you." become a Mid-Pacific editor, was known "Alexander Hume Ford?" were the by reputation to the young author. first words spoken to me in query by "Jack London, I believe," I said to the London. "I heard you were here." 118 THE MID-PACIFIC
Jack London as he appeared aboard the "Snark" in Pearl Harbor, when he first visited Honolulu, ten years ago. The yacht was anchored within a stone's throw of his cottage ashore. THE MID-PACIFIC 119
Jack London's first home in Honolulu, under the algaroba trees at the Peninsula, Pearl Harbor.
There was a firm clasp of the hand, and from his pen, and on the fly-leaf was al- a friendship began that never waned, but ways a warm letter of friendship. In grew closer as the years flew by. Hawaii it was my privilege, that of an There are less than half a dozen men old friend, to read his manuscript even in all the world who so became a part of as it left his pen. Often I would read my life and entered partnership with with interest of an afternoon his pencil- me in my life work, as did Jack London. ings of the morning hours. Even on the His last letter, written a few days before last day of his stay in Honolulu, but a his sudden end at Glen Ellen was to ex- few weeks before his departure for other press his sincere regret that the para- worlds, I was permitted to read words graphs he had prepared on "Aloha Land" that will appear in his last written ro- (Hawaii) for the "Cosmopolitan" Mag- mance, and as I put down the MS. strips, azine, had been omitted, some of these the great author and greater friend took describing the objects of the Pan-Pacific from his writing tray a fountain pen, on Movement. He sent the original manu- which his name was engraved, and said, script to show his sincerity, and an as- "Ford, this is the pen that has turned surance that the paragraphs would ap- out my stories written in Hawaii. I want pear as he had written them when the you to have it." work appeared in book form. "I want it, Jack," was my reply, as It was Jack London all over. The re- I slipped it into my vest pocket and so ply I sent to the effect that no editor's Jack and I parted lightly, and forever. I blue pencil could convince me of his did not see him off on the steamer, as lack of interest in the movement he had neither of us wished it. helped to create, never reached him in As I ask myself, "Why did I like this world. Jack London from the start?" I know it For ten years Jack London had sent was because I intuitively guessed that he me as it left the press, each new volume loved Humanity more than he loved him- 120 THE MID-PACIFIC
Jack London, with Mrs. London, his arm resting upon her shoulder, and their cousin, when Jack returned to Hawaii to live at Waikiki. In this house he wrote "Jerry," "And Michael," besides short stories of Hawaii. THE MID-PACIFIC 121
Jack London in a pineapple field, during his first stay in Hawaii. self, his work, or life itself. cific lands in a movement to 'bind us to- It was Jack London, Joe Cooke, Lor- gether to advance our combined inter- rin Thurston, Walter F. Frear (then ests. A friend present, Frank C. Ather- governor of Hawaii) who first got to- ton, who was to come into the movement gether and talked of a Pan-Pacific Move- years later as one of its leaders, gave ment, and for ten years each of us has assurance of his hearty support, and a worked heart and soul toward its attain- few days later at a small luncheon at the ment. Jack London was one of its spon- University Club, the Hands-Around-the- sors, and to the end one of our co- Pacific Movement was born. In the workers. meantime, I had met the author of the • I arrived in Hawaii but a few weeks "Call of the Wild," with the result that before Jack London left San Francisco there was planned an automobile trip in his yacht the "Snark" for a Pan- around the Island of Oahu ; and so Jack Pacific cruise. One evening, after din- London was brought into the circle of ner, on the lanai, or great tropical ver- the Pan-Pacific Movement, my first snap- andah of the Honolulu home of J. P. shot of "Jack" being at the Pali or preci- Cooke, the head of the most progressive pice, six miles from Honolulu, between sugar house, we discussed the possibility Joseph Cooke and Lorrin A. Thurston. of securing the co-operation of all Pa- two men who from that day were to be- 122 THE MID PACIFIC
Jack London and the author on the grounds of the third London mansion, and last home, at Waikiki.
come his life-long friends, and one of waii. Then began a boyish romp. Jack them, L. A. Thurston, an oft-time com- wouldn't Iigten then and never would in panion on many island excursions. later years to our playing the grown-up. Jack London, during the two or three After he was through with his day's days of this outing aroused the boy that work he longed to be a boy again. slumbers in every man. True to his re- These are but hasty lines of remin- solve, which I have never known him to iscence, yet those first days with London break, he put in certain hours of work stand out still with the clearness of a before he would consent to take his en- photograph that has kept its sharpness joyment. Up at four in the morning, on Pitted against the keenest intellect in the day we were to start, he had written Hawaii, that of Lorrin A. Thurston, his prescribed 1000 words before we there were flashes of wit, but all in boy- were ready for a start at 9 a.m., and the ish spirit, brilliant epigrams and para- next day at the Haleiwa Hotel he was up graphs of philosophy tripped from the and at work before daylight without our tip of the tongue with boyish laughter, knowledge, that he might not delay our many pearls of thought and given expres- proposed early morning start. sion that fell like pearls by the roadside We had begun by calling our guest —a few to be treasured and remembered. Mr. London. It was on this journey that those who "Nothing doing," was his laughing re- were to become Jack's first close and ply. "I'm out for a good time ; I'm first, lasting friends in Hawaii learned the "Jack" (we had stopped for a swim), wonderful worth of the vivacious little and it's "Ford" and "Thurston," and I'm woman he called "Mate." going to duck you, "Joe," and under the She was his mate, and had served her water went the great financier of Ha- watch at the wheel on the "Snark." A THEE MID-PACIFIC 123
Jack London and Mrs. London (in the center), on the Outrigger Canoe Club beach, Waikiki. devotion to Jack that was to outlast his From the first we saw that she had life was expressed in every action of set out to make herself indispensable to the blithesome woman he had made his Jack, as he was to her. If he arose at companion, friend, and wife. It was an daylight, she arose shortly after to type equal devotion, for I have heard Jack his notes, and it was she that kept the lament but a few weeks before he left daily diary (a treasure to become mine us that he feared that on his return to for use in this magazine in the years to the States he must be separated from her come). She was his right hand and both for two whole weeks, something that recognized the fact and were equally had never happened during the ten years proud of it. I laughed at their devo- of their married life. He had, he ex- tion in their honeymoon days, but lived plained, gone on to New York without to revere and honor it as one of the Charmian once to transact some business great sacred things I had encountered and close a contract, but at the end of in life. twenty-four hours in the great city Jack London made his first home in found it too lonely without his "mate" Hawaii on the Peninsula at Pearl Har- by his side, dropped everything, and re- bor, where he could do his literary work turned to her. quietly without interruption, and at the This, in Hawaii, ten years ago, was same time keep his eye on the "Snark," the beginning of that devotion that was anchored close by. I used to drop in to never wane. It was their honeymoon, sometime, and if Jack had not finished yet ten years later Jack London was an his 1000 words for the day, sit with even more devoted lover and Charmian Charmian (for so her friends call her) a happier woman loved. under the algarobas that hid the little 124 THE MID-PACIFIC
Jack London's home at Glen Ellen, burned before completion and near which his ashes are scattered.
bungalow and sheltered the grounds. Hawaii after years of absence was an- Here Jack, then in the throes of revolu- other man. That human intellect could tion against the social order, preached within the space of less than a decade so to me on the subject of Socialism, but I broaden I had never considered possible. always maintained that should I ever Upon his return to Hawaii in 1914, it become a Socialist, it would be through was the pleasure of the editor of this observation and not through argument, maganize to secure him a house at Wai- so we each continued living our lives, kiki, and here was written "Jerry"— and often working together toward the "and Michael," the story of a dog that same end, no matter what name we gave began his career in the cannibal islands the object desired. of the South Sea Islands, with which the Jack left Hawaii to resume his cruise editor and Jack London were both fa- around the Pacific about the time that miliar; "And Michael" is a continuation I made my first voyage to the Antipodes of "Jerry," but as this story is now run- to see if there was a latent sentiment to- runing in the "Cosmopolitan" it would ward a Pan-Pacific co-operative move- .not be fair to say anything of either of ment—and there was. Years passed be- them, except that the style and movement /fore Jack and I got together again to is Jack London at his best. work shoulder to shoulder in the causes As a privileged friend, I was allowed. we espoused, but we kept in touch with on account of my habit of retiring early each other. He was the first paid sub- of an evening, to lie on the lounge in scriber the Mid-Pacific Magazine had the dining-room after dinner, while Jack and his check came without solicitation, would read from some of his unfinished merely on the rumor that such a maga- manuscripts to particular friends he had zine was to be born in Hawaii. invited to dinner. I can always listen The Jack London who returned to best and think best in a reclining posi- THE MID-PACIFIC 1 25
"Jerry," Mrs. Jack London's pet from the Solomon; that inspired the story, "Jerry." tion„ and many were the delightful hours ambition was to create a powerful novel, spent listening to the deeper philosophy not a story, but a thrilling love novel. I of Jack London as he expounded it be- said to him, "But Jack, you have never tween paragraphs. written anything 'smutty' ;" I meant to Nothing that he has written was writ- be facetious, but in a flash he was all ten without a motive. Lying there, I earnestness. "No," he said, "and I never learned that the "Mutiny of the Elsi- will. I have never yet written a line for nore" was written to illustrate how the print that I would be ashamed for my blond white man from the Northern two little girls who are growing up to countries of Europe is rapidly being see and read, and I never will." And crowded out of America, and that as he he meant it. disappears he will go down fighting to Once again when I became facetious the last, but that he will go down beneath and accused him of writing for fame, the weight of the Latin, the Slav, and he turned to me and said, "I would other Southern European races that are rather get one cent a word more for pouring into America, whom he can rule everything that I have written, than to as long as he lives, but with whom he write a novel that will live forever. I cannot successfully compete in the con- don't care about the fame in this life. tinual struggle, for existence. I think more of making my ranch a pay- Some day, Mrs. Jack London will ing proposition that will teach the f_)eo- write the story of Jack's stories, how ple of California what can be done with they came to be written and what they worn-out lands, than I do of my literary mean, and when the real Jack London name now or hereafter." is revealed to the world by she who * * * knows him best, then he will be begun The boyishness never left Jack. He to be understood. would come down to the Outrigger Ca- We were talking once of the different noe Club on Waikiki Beach, which, by authors, and I knew that Jack's one great the way he and I were instrumental in 126 THE MID PACIFIC organizing ten years ago—but he tells of his daily shave, and always he wrapped this in some of his books—and it was his head in a towel, turban-like, and aq here on these grounds that he used to the hotel management compelled him to have his tent house, and in the surf in wear the kimona before entering the bar- front I taught him to ride the surf- ber shop, Jack at 5 o'clock every after- board. It was the spot we both loved best noon presented the appearance of a Turk- of any in Hawaii, and here, every after- ish cadi. It was not boasting, it was noon after his work was over he would simply carrying out the rules imposed come and romp with the children before upon him by the hotel, and it was done his daily swim with Charmian, his mate. good-naturedly. Jack had a hundred ages. With the Jack would never wear an evening littlest girl on the beach he was a boon suit. Discussing it once he said that he companion and pal. He would drop the had not been brought up to it, he didn't most serious conversation for a moment like it, and the one occasion when he did to show her some new trick he had wear one was in Japan when he was em- learned. To the boys of the Outrigger ployed by the New York "Journal." He Club he was an idol. When he would charged the evening suit up to the news- read aloud they would sit around and paper he represented, wore it once as worship; in the surf he was one of them. their representative, then shipped it back Daily he and the blithe little woman, to Glen Ellen, where it is still in the gar- mate would battle out against the waves ret, subject to the wishes of the New for a mile, and sport far out in the blue York paper. waters for an hour or more. What won- It was on the Outrigger Club grounds, der that when Jack left Honolulu again on the spacious lanai over the sea, that it was but for a brief visit to his beloved Jack and I held our weekly Pan-Pacific Glen Ellen. I was his visitor there and dinners. One week I would invite a we returned together to Hawaii, and dozen of the leading Japanese "lights" once more Jack London took a house on of Honolulu to meet with the man who the beach, but this time is was a spacious wished to know them, and the next week mansion where he and his mate could the leading Koreans, and then the prom; entertain, and under the spreading ha'u nent Hawaiians, and the Portuguese. tree that grew to the water's edge, were and the people of every race of the Pa- held many luncheon parties, and often cific ; and they in return would invite his guests had the opportunity of listen- London to their homes, and they seemerl ing to the latest Hawaiian short story to know and understand each other, and from the pen of the author, completed, upon Jack London, in the Pan-Pacific perhaps but a few moments before the Movement, I learned to rely for counsel guests assembled. and advice. Jack was ever unconventional. If he When the Congressional Party visited happened to be in his bathing suit when Honolulu last, we arranged for a Pan- visitors called, he would quickly slip on Pacific dinner under the hau trees on a kimona and receive them as he was. the Outrigger Club grounds, and there with a glad shake of the hand and a three hundred men of every race of the short apology. But the true gentle- Pacific, and sixty Senators and Repre- man was there—he considered it real sentatives sat down together, and Jack politness not to keep anyone waiting. London made the speech on the "Lan- From the Outrigger Club beach, invari- guage of the Tribe," that brought us ably he wandered over to the hotel for closer together and made us begin to THE MID-PACIFIC 127 understand. He and I had often plan- would die, although he loved life as few ned a cruise around the Pacific, charter- men loved it, and would do anything but ing a large steamer, and visiting every submit to humiliation. land about the Great Ocean, carrying Harry Strange was wounded at the thereto the propaganda of the Pan- Front and received medals for bravery, Pacific Movement. Just before he left medals in addition to the ones he had Honolulu for the last time he asked his won in the South African War, and wife, Charmian, to select a gift from while he lay wounded and recovering in him, either a house at Waikiki, which a London hospital, or was again starting she loved, or a schooner on which they for the Front, the man that we had would go cruising around the Pacific, looked to as the one who would long and she chose the schooner. outlive us, silently passed into the Great Jack was always the boy out of school. Beyond. Our last Christmas dinner together was It will never seem real to us, it will at the home of one of our co-workers in never be true. It is only that he is back the Pan-Pacific Movement, Harry L. in Glen Ellen on a visit, and to us there Strange, now at the Front. After din- will always be that "some day" when he ner I threw some pillows on the floor will return to Hawaii to be our compan- and said, "Jack, I am going 'to be a kid ion once more. and lie down for my rest." In concluding these rambling notes in "Go to it," was his reply, and in two memory of the man that meant so much minutes he had everyone from the to the people of Hawaii and the Pacific, Christmas table on the floor, where we I will but quote a few brief lines from sat or sprawled and enjoyed our coffee the wife of Jack London that have just —and it was one of the merriest Christ- reached me. And they are • words of masses that I have ever known. Two comfort to everyone, I think, who knew months later I was on my way to the and loved Jack, for they tell us that his Coast with Harry Strange, and bade him memory will aways be kept green and good-bye as he joined his comrades at his unfinished works completed : Vancouver on his way to the Front, and yet, if ever a man believed in peace, it * * * was Harry Strange. Jack believed in it. "Work, work—that's what I must do. but for liberty and freedom, Jack Lon- and I am working hard. You were don daily laid down the fiat that he right, it is entirely unreal."
Looking out from the London's Waikiki residence. 128 THE MID-PACIFIC • War's Peace Sermon to the Pacific
By A SOLDIER AT THE FRONT.
HERE are men from Hawaii and marks him as a brave soldier and a true from all Pacific lands fighting in gentleman. Since the date of his letter he T the trenches in Europe. Hitherto has been again wounded, and is now in one the Mid-Pacific Magazine has published of the hospitals, but his belief in perfect nothing of the sad affairs in Europe. We unbroken peace, to be brought about only of the Pacific should never discuss war or through understanding by the common peo- peace with each other—but co-operation ple of one another, and one another's races, and how to help one another. is unbroken, as he who reads may see. However, every rule has its exception, * * * and we herewith publish a letter from one Sometime, Somewhere in France. of those who was a frequent visitor at "Cheer—o: Hands-Around-the-Pacific gatherings, and "I'm stealing a few moments from this an apostle of the movement. We publish Bloody Murder to think of you all in the his letter for the advice it gives, advice Pan-Pacific Movement. I took part in from the trenches to Pacific races to know the advance and got slight wounds in the each other so well that they will never hands, neck and face, but shall be quite build trenches against each other. This be- 0. K. in a few days, without a mark, I liever in peace and understanding has twice hope. I had a thousand narrow squeaks, been promoted and has just received a sec- though. You know, this thing isn't War, ond medal for personal bravery. His kind- Ford — it's Bloody Awful Murder re- ness to prisoners his command has cap- duced to the nth degree of scientific ac- tured and his endeavor to understand them, curacy by a mechanically-minded and per-
129 130 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Hands-Around-the-Pacific idea. haps be-spectacled Devil in a perfectly safe seems to long has gone by, you feel you dug-out one -hundred feet below ground, must get up, and to Hell with it. A ter- seven or eight miles away from you. He rific crush smashes the whole world to calculates, and suddenly out of a lovely splinters, and as you rise and find to your blue sunshining sky, through the white astonishment that you're quite all right, fleecy clouds, over the green hills nodding you see what looks like half the village with a full grain crop, all intermixed with going up skywards. It's not your time yet, a wealth of lovely poppies, daisies, mig- so your hurry on with your lunch while nonette, and all field flowers, comes a hell- the stretcher bearers dash by to the village, ish and diabolical whine, pitched in a key and soon they return. Idly you glance. you never forget and which you have never God Almighty! Seven of the little white- heard before. The lovely singing thrush frocked girls wounded, the Cure dead, and stops suddenly and intuitively, and from six old Frenchmen and women gone, too. experience settles to the ground. You hear * * * the village church bells ringing joyfully "And this is War! Multiply the above —it's their fete day and a whole company little episode by the number of French vil- of sweet little girls, all dressed in white, lages just behind the lines, and you get a are escorting the cure and the Cross around picture of daily happenings, somewhere at the village; and then as you yourself dig all events. But if you're in the front line your nails in the ground and claw with trenches, then multiply the whine and your nails to get closer, the whine ceases, crash in such a manner that they happen and follows a fraction of a second of ab- every minutes, and all so near you that you solute silence. Dear Ford, do you know no longer trouble to take care, but in- what time is, I mean its comparative val- stead callously and doggedly "take your ue? From the time a shell hits until it medicine" when it comes, and to be sure it explodes, is say at the most, a second; but I comes, all right. Of course, here, too, the tell you no whole year in Hawaii is half stretcher bearers do their work, but they s long as you lay there with your nose in don't hurry so. You see there is so much the ground and your nails clawed in try- to do, and most of their patients from shell ing to dig closer and closer; then when it fire who can't walk are in no hurry you THE MID-PACIFIC 131 know, only it's disagreeable to walk along all bloody well offered up to the altar of the trench until its cleared. Although even some one man's grasping greed of power. this comforting remains of your finer na- "All, Ford, I do wonder if you can pos- ture soon leaves you and you simply don't sibly realize how big, big, big, a thing our notice after a while. But I tell you what, Pan-Pacific is; mutual understanding and when I meet a stretcher bearer, I salute mutual confindence is the only way to stop him. He's a man, he is, Ford old chap. this kind of business. Why, do you know, Did you ever smell human meat — nice the poor peasant German prisoners whom fresh human meat? If you ever get a we are now capturing wholesale all tell the chance, take my advice and don't Some same tale: 'Why did England and France things in life never leave you—that's one and Russia and Italy desire to cut up Ger- of them I'm sure. many into little pieces and kill all its in- "There are other things, too, not nearly habitants, when all the simple German so nice even as this. You see, I want you folk desired was to be left in peace to to get a glimpse of really what this damn- work their farms?' And the beauty of it able war is like. And look, Ford, there is, Ford, the poor deluded creatures ac- are just thousands, and thousands, and tually believe it, absolutely they do—and thousands, and then some more of the re- so I say if there had been mutual respect mains of what were once happy, joyous, and confidence, not between rulers and carefree gentle, sweet French farming fam- politicians, but between the merchants and ilies, and there remains invariable count of common people, there would have been no one or more, aged, crooked and bent wo- war; and I really do believe you are doing men, with nothing left but the fire of ven- an immense work in the Pan-Pacific to- geance in their souls, when they carefully wards creating such an understanding and dust, and with tear-dimmend eyes—no I'm wrong, they don't even cry anymore—when mutual respect on the Pacific as shall ren- they look at the family portrait group, now der the fear of war there laughable." 132 THE MID-PACIFIC Solomon Island archer.
(The Log of the Snark) Troubles Galore in the Solomons
CHARMIAN KITTREDGE LONDON *
ARBISHIRE quotes Kipling abortive start for Bellona and Rennel, voluminously, and is overjoyed on July 24. Jack beat me to the fever, D that we love him also. We coming down suddenly one day. The lounge in long chairs on the verandahs, heat flared up in him, he went promptly and watch through our eyelashes the out of his head and thus missed con- occasional dim schooners and cutters sciousness of the severer aches and plying the sparkling level of Indispen- pains, and in three hours was almost sable Straits, and listen to our favorite quite himself again—merely a little weak. poems as Darbishire recites them, no A few days after I had a touch of it, matter how long, from McAndrews' but only a touch, which led me to hope I Hymn to the Recessional. might escape any bad attacks. And I * * * * took the first quinine of my life ! From July 15 to August 8, we spent Harding had implored the boon of at Penduffryn, with the exception of an piloting the Snark to Bellona and Ren-
• Copyrighted by Author. 133 134 THE MID-PACIFIC, nel, and requested that we let him take quate "niggers," was a rather pitifully a crew of his own boys, to which Jack ludicrous incident—for us. Everything consented, although he and I much pre- was at sixes and sevens, and the general ferred otherwise. disgust resulted in a change of course The Snark got under way at six a.m., that blew back to Penduffryn in the after wating all night for a "land breeze" early dawn. I went on deck at seven, Harding said never failed after sunset: and could not believe my eyes when I We were simply cluttered with the black saw Darbishire and Bernays maniuplat- crew, who, whatever they might or ing signal flags in the most absurd joking might not be on the Scorpion, were per- messages to us, which did not cheer up fect numbskulls on the Snark. Harding's poor Harding in the least. temper was not improved by their stu- We found the Eugenie at anchor, and pidity before us under his orders, and on the verandah her mainsail was being their utter vacuity under Jack or Henry mended of a bad rent. Wada was tot- on their watches. I could hear exasper- tering around after an attack of fever ated inarticulate "language" of both the that had kept him from the ill-fated latter when they tried to accomplish any- Bellona and Rennel cruise, Nakata hav- thing with the stranger crew, especially ing taken his place as croak and acquit- in the fierce squalls we encountered. Al- ting himself splendidly. An observant though Jack had paid for the scraping of youth, Nakata. the Snark's copper by divers at Cubutu, Next day Wada was pacing the deck she several times refused to come about, of the Snark in a blue funk over the and he could only conclude that she was fever, and over a skin irritation called badly barnacled—which Darbishire dis- Ngari-Ngari, that itches and burns like covered to be the case later when he a thousand attacks of poison oak. The sent his boys under to investigate. native name means scratch-scratch. I We did not get far, what of the light, have a touch of it myself, so I can sym- adverse airs, and the perverse currents. pathize. It is a vegetable poisoning, and We beat our way around the first point, we have learned that the Sophie Suther- a few miles west of the plantation, where land ( Jack's old sealing schooner) which we went to anchor in the company of two came to the Solomons some years back, other ketches that were in the same case. lost her crew from ngari-ngari. They The Eugenie (the report of her going went into the hills, got badly poisoned by ashore had been a joke of Darbishire's) the bush, scratched themselves without bound with recruits for Malaita, sailed control and without antiseptics, and end- by, her larger sail plan enabling her to ed up in a terrible fester that caused their outsail the rest of us. But she suddenly deaths. turned around and ran back to Penduf- Nakata has had two severe bouts with fryn, much to Harding's discomfiture, fever, but is inexhaustibly cheerful. for he had launched into praises of his Henry had a milder attack, and refused pet. Later in the day we weighed an- Jack's quinine capsules because they did chor, and went ahead a few miles, dur- not look like the tablets dispensed by the ing which we encountered the squalls and doctor at Tutuila. Martin was so had the trouble coming about. downcast over his ulcers, that he was Harding had several sick headaches, getting badly disaffected and almost and was not a cheerful comrade. His ready to quit the Snark at the prospect squally watch from eight to twelve that of several months in the archipelago ; black night, with his scared and inade- but he became so interested in the social THE MID-PACIFIC • 135 life ashore, the billiards, and poker, and valor, into Adventure. Sometimes we various mild gambling, that he changed visit the "quarters" after dark, armed, his mind. and escorted by Satan. Ornfere's cooking had lapsed to such Bernays' devotion to the Brindisi an extent that Harding was glad for us Drinking Song has in no wise abated ; to bring Wada ashore, until he went only, he now protects himself and the sick with fever and hypochondria. And playing record with a tomahawk in one the anxious, poetic-faced Ornfere's imi- hand and a New Guinea club in the tations of the Japanese's doughnuts, other. "New Guinea" reminds me that dumplings, bread and cake, were some- aboard the Makambo one forenoon thing weird. where we went out to breakfast, we met Jack has finished a beautiful South a Mrs. Donald McKay, whose husband Sea story entitled The Heathen, based is exploring in New Guinea. I felt upon a noble and sublimated Tehei, and sorry for the lady, for she is about as is deep in a novel, "Adventure," with happy and peaceful in her mind as I the stage of action right here on Pen- would be if Jack were in the Guadalcanal duffryn Plantation. He warns me that bush! I need not be surprised if he runs away We miss the pleasant fruits of Poly- with his heroine, Joan Lackland, as he nesia, the oranges, and bananas, man- is falling quite in love with her. Be- goes, and limes. And we should thrive sides our steady work these past three better if we had them. Jack seems weeks and over, we have boxed, ridden headed for another spell of the sickness horseback, and swam at sunset, some- of before and during our "discovery" times in tropic showers when the palms of the. Solomons, and I am afraid of the lay against the stormy sky like green dysentery for him, as it has broken loose enamel on a slate background — with among the boys, and several are in the ever an eye out for alligators. One was pitiful shack dubbed "hospital." Jack seen near the Snark, also a shark. And took a look at them the other day. One, Tehei has enthusiastically joined with lying in pain and dissolution, had a weep- Bernays in his trap-making and setting, ing, frightened brother at his feet, who although with no better reward so far could not be made to understand that his than sand-tracks and broken traps. Ber- grief was deleterious to the sick man. nays seeks their destruction grimly and And the masters are not happy over the unceasingly, for "They killed the best loss of their boys. Bernays, who works dog I ever had," he says. Speaking of hard, says bitterly: "They die on pur- dogs, there is one here, a jet-black, large pose, the brutes-" They have no more mongrel terrier of parts, who gaily an- resistance than a mosquito, no hold on swers to "Satan" whenever he is called life, and succumb mentally as well as to show off. He seems to be made of physically. coiled springs, and can jump straight into the air to impossible heights for * * * * * food and sticks or unhusked cocoanuts On August 8, 1908, the ketch Minota which he incredibly strips with his teeth dropped in, and Captain Jansen renewed and claws in short order. He is the ter- his invitation for the Malaita recruiting ror of the "niggers," and a word to him trip. We looked at each other, Jack and clears the compound of an unruly crowd I, nodded, and packed our grips and the in less time than the spoken word. Jack typewriter. Meanwhile, Jack arranged is getting him and certain tales of his that the Snark be taken to Cubutu, where 136 THE MID-PACIFIC we would join her in a week or ten days a double crew of fifteen and between and sail her to Ysabel Island, where we thirty and forty recruits who had served had learned we could safely careen her their. three years on Ysabel and were be- and make a raid on her barnacles. ing returned to their tribespeople. And We rowed aboard the Minota after a what was my surprise when I explored gay and festive dinner, in a lovely night the dimly lighted cabin, to meet the shy, of stars with a pleasant light breeze half-wild eyes of a kinky-headed "Mary" ruffling the spangled water, and slipped peering from a dark cubby under the out to a string of Darbishire's absurd deck, behind the companion steps. Cap- code messages winking from the signal tain Jansen explained that a Malaitan staff in the compound. chief, in return for some favor, or to The Minota was originally a gentle- curry one, had honored him with the gift man's yatcht in Australia—a beautiful of his daughter, Tesema—a tidy morsel, rakish thing of teak and bronze and lofty should "big fella marster belong white cedar, fin-keeled, and very fast, now man choose to kai-kai the noble damsel" owned by a wealthy planter of the Solo- —for thus are the poor females disposed mons, Captain Svenson, a man famed of at the whim of their ruthless kin. hereabout for the number and success "She's a very embarrassing parcel," of his ventures in the Solomons and else- the captain said, with a grimace of dis- where. She was not much larger than taste, "but I thought too much of my the Snark, but her interior consisted neck to refuse her." He called her out, merely of a main cabin and one state- and she came crawling obediently and room forward. Captain Jansen and the stood before us, in a single calico chem- mate would have it that we take their ise, the first garment she had ever known. quarters, and themselves turned in on the "Look at her—she's got bukua from head long bunks in the cabin. The door to to foot !" And even as he spoke, her our room still bore the tomahawk marks hands were busy scratching the dand- where the Malaitans at Langa Langa sev- ruffy, ringwormy skin. Captain Jansen eral months before broke in for the trove was heading for a Mission as soon as he of rifles and ammunition locked therein, finished his recruiting. "It's all I can after bloodily murdering Jansen's prede- do," he said. "If I leave her anywhere cessor, Captain Mackenzie. The burning else, ten to one she'd be kai-kai'd before of the vessel was somehow prevented by I'm out of sight. The fleshy parts of a the black crew, but this was so unprece- woman's forearm and leg are the favor- dented that the owner feared some com- ite feast-bits. * * * But they wouldn't plicity between them and the attacking get so much off her," he concluded, look- party. However, it could not be proved, ing at the slim, scared being. and we sailed with the majority of this It was insufferably hot in our bunks, same crew. The present skipper smiling- which were high, with the heated ceiling ly warned us that the same tribe still close. The deck was packed with blacks, required two more heads from the who, when they were not sleeping in Minota, to square up for deaths on the their brutish, restless, muttering way, Ysabel plantation ! chattered incessantly in staccato high Nakata and Wada accompanied us, eunuch voices, a polyglot of native dia- the latter in a pale panic lest he lose his lects and beche de mer, with frequent in- precious head ; the former cannily obser- terpolations of "My word !" "Fella," vant and, beside the four whites of us, "You gammon along me," "No fear !" the ship's complement was made up of that were comically startling. Jack THE MID-PACIFIC 137 laughed right out when one bush-boy, a blue-blooded Irish terrier of five tender unaccustomed to the sea, who had been but dauntless months, from Svenson's moaning in incipient nausea, exclaimed : famous breed on Ysabel, and the pride "Belly belong. me walk about too much !" of Jansen's hopes for a "nigger chaser," Whereupon another falsetto piped up in stirred up added ructions by bullying the sympathy, "Belly belong me sing out !" weanling baby-dog. There was not a Then would come sudden breaks into single minute of silence on the Minota light, short, child-laughter. What could that long, sweltering night. And yet it their meager infantile brains find to talk was wonderful to lie there, our pistols about so interminably? A miserable and extra cartridges under our pillows black wild-dog puppy from the Ysabel and a rifle apiece alongside on the couch, bush, termed by Jansen "The Wandering realizing the slashing risky strangeness Sausage," hunting for huinan kindnesF of the situation, nothing between us and and nursing, wailed and yapped at the danger except our own grit, knowledge thoughtless pinches and pushes and slap- of our own dominant whiteness and sure with which it was bandied about. Peggy, trigger-fingers—and luck.
Solomon Islanders clambering over the side of the "Snark" to barter. 138 THE MID-PACIFIC Deserted log cabins on the Yukon.
The Original Americans
By W. E. PRIESTLEY.
TUDENTS of ethnology have long plateau of Old Mexico, and that in pre- disputed over the North Ameri- historic days primitive man in his wan- S can Indians, but all theories ad- derings settled in the different parts of vanced, must to a large extent be hypo- the world. In this way they attempt to thetical, owing to the lack of history or account for the similarity of habits and legends connected with the race. • costums that are known to exist in both Some imaginative writers have ad- the Indian and the Oriental races. It vanced the theory, that the cradle of the is generally supposed, however, that the human race was originally on the high Indians are of Mongolian or Tartar
139 140 THE MID-PACIFIC stock, and that they came to this con- had lived for some time in the new coun- tinent by way of Siberia and Alaska. try. This work of colonizing would nat- The idea that the Indians are of urally be done by the stronger and more Asiatic origin, is the most plausible that adventurous, as is always the case in co- has as yet been advanced. A glance at lonial conquests or settlement. The In- the combined map of Asia and America dians of the States are naturally superior will show that from East Cape in Siberia to the Indians of Alaska and this may to Cape Prince of Wales in Alaska is be due not only owing to the fact of bet- only about eighty miles, and that be- ter environment, but also because they tween these two points is a chain of isl- are the descendants of those early ands known as the Diomedes. It may Alaska pioneers who left their homes in be even possible, that between these two the frozen North in search of fresh ter- points there has been in comparativley ritory. Following up the same line of recent geologic history, a solid neck of reasoning the Alaska Indians are the land. Whether by means of the narrow descendants of those who were not phy- channel or by the isthmus, there is little sically fitted for the strenuous work of doubt that this was the stepping stone exploration, and owing to this and severe between two continents, and that Alaska climatic conditions they are mentally and was the first part of the American con- physically inferior to their brethren in tinent to receive the human race. If more temperate climes. There is no this supposition is correct, as there is doubt of the fact that the Indians of every reason to believe it is, it will easily the States and the Indians of Alaska be seen that the Alaskan Indians are were originally of the same stock. Cer- the original Americans. tain similarities exist in the two lan- Let us suppose that in prehistoric days, guages, as witness the two words "tena," a number of savages of Tartar on Mon- meaning men, and "sos," meaning bear, gol stock, were traveling towards the both words being used by the Indians rising sun, and eventually came to that of Alaska and the Navajos of New Mex- part of the Siberian coast that we now ico. Another link is the similarity of call East Cape. With the keen eyes of household utensils and weapons of the the savage, they would see in the far dis- chase, such as the birch bark canoe, snow tance, the prominent headlands of a new shoes, and the bow and arrow. They continent. Inspired by the spirit of ex- are also identified by certain unmistak- ploration, and also by the search of a able physical characteristics, such as lank new hunting ground, what is more natu- black hair, high cheek bones, aquiline ral than that they should cross in their noses, and small well-shaped hands and skin kayaks, and thus become the first feet. Both races have a high regard for discovers of America. That such trips the sun, and also the raven, even the pe- were made and were possible is proved culiarities of each distinctive tribe may by the fact that even today there is an be traced back to certain characteristics interchange of trade between the two inherited by their progenitors. If time continents. Years ago it was a common would allow, a vast array of facts could custom for the natives of Alaska to be brought forward to prove that the smoke opium which was brought to them two races were of one common stock, from Asia by this avenue of travel. and if the Indians have migrated at all, Having discovered Alaska some of them they would migrate to the south, where would naturally travel farther afield and they would meet with betten climatic this would probably be done after they conditions. It is hardly feasible to sup- THE MID-PACIFIC 141 pose that any race of people would leave age of puberty, he accompanies his fa- a country where game was plentiful, and ther in the hunt. When a girl reaches climatic conditions favorable, to a land the age of puberty, it is an event of great possessing the rigorous climate of the importance in the tribe. For a period of Arctic, where game would be scarcer and six weeks she is isolated from the rest harder to obtain. of the tribe, and is not allowed to speak Until more conclusive arguments are to any male, nor can any man speak to brought forward, it is safe to say that her. During her period of isolation all Alaska is the cradle of the human race her wants are attended to by the women in America, despite the more advanced of the tribe. After this six weeks of types of primitive civilization met with probation is completed, she is allowed on the Mexican plateau, and which is to return to the tribe, but for a period of evidently of Polynesian origin, and that twelve moons she must wear a distinctive the Alaska Indian is the original Ameri- dress. When the moons have run their can, all other Indians being descended allotted course, she is admitted into the from the parent branch. It must be ad- tribe as a woman, and is eligible for mitted that in the majority of cases, the marriage. The girl herself has nothing original stock has been considerably im- to say in the choice of her husband, proved. The trunk family tree has this being left to her father. The fa- thrown off more virile and stronger ther fixes the price on his daughter, ac- branches. And yet, the Indians of the cording to her beauty and her accom- Lower Yukon have certain manners and plishments, and the first man who comes customs, that are not only interesting to along, and puts up the requisite fee, the students of ethnology, but even to takes the girl. The price may range the casual observer. from twenty dollars in trade to a sea- The natives of the Lower Yukon sons' catch of salmon. A crippled or style themselves "Kleeukhukhutana," deformed girl can be secured at a re- meaning "the people who live on the duction. The highest price for a girl river," but they are styled by the Eski- is fixed upon the one who has been edu- mos, as the "Ingaliks," meaning "the cated by the missionaries. lousy ones." The Indians of the Lower Yukon have The Yukon Indian as soon as he is no belief in a Supreme Being, but be- born has a name bestowed upon him, lieve that everything in Nature is con- generally taken from the first natural ob- trolled by a large number of evil spirits. ject or animal seen after his birth. The One of the worst of these spirits is local witch doctor is called in to protect "notsina dan," who lives in holes in the the child against all malignant spirits. river bank. When the currents sweep It should be observed that although the underneath the bank of the river with a Yukon Indians are considered a savage peculiar gurgling sound, the natives will race, they have a certain moral code. say, "listen to the voice of notsina dan !" They are strictly monogamous, and al- This spirit is a gentleman from the in- though they have an easy system of di- fernal regions, who is supposed to take vorce, they look upon illegitimacy as a a special delight in dragging unoffend- disgrace, not only to the parties con- ing Indians from their canoes, and also cerned, but to the whole tribe. Very torturing the dead. little attention is given to the children, An Indian grave is always bulit on a and as a result the infant mortality is high point or bluff, in order to be be- very high. When the boy reaches the yond the reach of "notsina dan." He 142 THE MID-PACIFIC can only travel where there is water, ful, palm-like appearance. In many cases and as long as the grave is dry he can- a flag is attached to this tree, and at not torture the dead. Kokrines Indian village, the top of a Curious customs are observed in bury- butter box was affixed to a grave upon ing the dead, and vary in different tribes. which was inscribed the mystic words In some cases, notably at the mouth of "keep cool." It would seem that the the Innoko River, the dead are placed in average Indian occupies a better resi- canoes, and are then hoisted into trees. dence after he is dead than during his In the course of time these canoes rot, life. and a collection of bones can always be At certain seasons of the year, notably found under these sepulchral trees. at the breaking of the ice in the river, In the majority of cases, however, the which, of course, is in the springtime, dead person is buried in a shallow hole. and also in mid-winter, feasts or pot- The body is placed on its side, the chin latches are held. The mid-winter pot- touching the knees. Over the grave a latch has been slightly altered to agree small house is built, gaily painted and with the Christian festivity of Christmas, decorated with a frieze of running ani- much the same as our Norse ancestors al- mals. Inside the little house are placed tered their Yule festival to suit that of certain belongings of the dead man, such the new Christian religion, retaining, as his clothes, or an old gun. It was however, the use of the holly and mistle- formerly the custom to place only the toe, and the custom of excessive eating best articles over the grave, but this and drinking. custom was stopped, owing to the fact When a potlatch is to be held the na- that these articles were stolen by certain tives for miles around assemble at some white men in the neighborhood. On appointed place, and eat until it is im- one occasion a certain chief was buried, possible to stuff themselves any more. and over his grave was placed two highly These feats, however, are seldom associ- priced samovars. The local Russian ated with drunkenness ; not that the In- priest looked upon the samovars with a dian is a temperance advocate, but be- covetous eye, and confiscated them for cause he is protected by law. Fortu- his own use, informing the horror-struck nately for the Indian, it is a crime punish- natives that he would devote them to the able by the Federal authorities to supply service of the church. Since that time poor T,c1 with alcohol. Were it not for the natives have only placed the cheap- this wise protection, the average Indian est articles over their graves, so as not would drink himself to death as fast as to excite the cupidity of the white man. he could pour the whiskey down his The Indians have great regard for throat. their places of burial, and lavish a good An especial feature of the potlatch is deal of care and attention upon the last the giving of presents, and each man does resting places of the departed. If an his best to give as much as his neighbor. Indian has no son, he will, if possible, If two men are enemies they will wager adopt a son so that when he is dead he a duel, not by means of the pistol or may receive a proper share of attention rapier, but by the startling way of see- and respect. • Whenever possible a spruce • ing who can give the most away to each tree is planted over the grave, and all the other. The man who gives the most to branches are cut off with the exception his opponent, even if he is stripped to the of a few feathery fronds at the top, hide, is hailed as the victor, and is looked which gives the humble spruce a grace- upon as a very great man in the tribe, THE MID-PACIFIC 143 and his opponent is supposed to feel a or children, as was formerly the case proportionate amount of shame, even if among the Indians of the States. he is in possession of all his neighbor's At the present time the U. S. Govern- goods and chattels. ment is taking an active part in the care These Indians are great gamblers and of these people. Until a short time ago no better proof can be obtained of their all the education was in the hands of Asiatic ancestry than to see them in a the missionaries, but in 1909 a number cabin, dimly lighted by a candle, and of schools were built to be under the with drawn anxious faces, dealing out management of non-sectarian teachers. the cards. This similarity between the With the passing of the old regime, how- scene depicted and a Chinese gambling ever, too much cannot be said for the den is so realistic, that a picture of one noble men and women who in years gone would easily pass for the two situations. by have done what they could for these The favorite game of the Indian is one people. Special mention should be made of throwing pebbles in the air and bet- of the Roman Catholic Mission at Holy ting as to how many will fall in a cer- Cross on the Lower Yukon, which has ring. In the more advanced Indians, been established for over twenty years. this has been supplanted by a kind of Various attempts are being made to poker game, in which playing cards' are improve the condition of the Yukon' In- used. They are not able to master all dians, but from all appearances it would the intricacies of poker, such as straights seem that the question will soon settle and flushes, so they content themselves itself, for the Yukon Indian will soon be with a sort of jackpot game, in which no a thing of the past. Twenty years ago player can open the game unless he has the .population of Holy Cross Mission a pair of jacks or better. Fortunately was 320, and today it has dwindled to for the Indian he cannot gamble away 62, and this in a village where the In- the food of the tribe, but he will wager dians have received the best of care and everything else. On one occasion an attention. All along the Yukon River, Indian had purchased a pair of leather deserted villages can be seen, each one shoes in exchange for some furs. These representing a domestic and tribal trag- shoes were a matter of envy to all the edy. Disease and famine are the two rest of the tribe, and it was not long scourges that are responsible for the before the owner of the shoes was in- final extermination of these people, and vited into a gambling game. He at once for the disease, the white man is res- brought his shoes into the game in ponsible. Diseases of the worst kind order to gamble with them, and for a were introduced among an innocent peo- time won everything in sight. Presently ple by the early Russian settlers, and to- his luck changed, and he lost everything day disease is still rampant, either in its he had including one of his much coveted original form, or else in the form of shoes. His opponent was congratulat- scrofula or tuberculosis. The death rate ing himself upon the new pair of shoes from tuberculosis alone is more than he would shortly have as soon as he won three times as much among these poor the other shoe, when to his surprise and people than among white people. dismay, the former owner of the shoe It seems almost an impossibility to took out his knife and ripped the re- save the remnant of this race, and un- maining shoe into ribbons, much .to the less something is done in the near fu- discomfiture of the would-be owner of the shoes. It is worthy of record that ture, it is only a matter of a short time the Indians of the Yukon have never before Alaska will bury the last of the been known to gamble away their wives "original Americans." 144 THE MID-PACIFIC
■ ■ ■ ■
The trip by horseback or afoot over the Koolau "Ditch" Trail on the Island of Maui is one of the most wonderful of experiences. The late Jack London made the journey once, became enthused, went over the ground again, and wrote a description that has become famous. At the beginning of the Trail.
Around Maui in Patches
By E. S. GOODHUE.
AVING disposed of four murder my companionship went on to Wailuku. and many other cases, the La- Howell joined me at Maalaea to begin on H haina court adjourned, freeing all horseback our journey homeward the in attendance except those unhappy indi- "longest way 'round." viduals who were found guilty. Gradu- Kehei, soon reached, wasn't much but the ally departed the witnesses and jurors who sea point of a triangular 10,000 acres, had gossipped under the banyan, breaking reaching well up the flanks of Haleakala, up an enforced acquaintance which was flecked with possibilities for small farmers who might raise cattle, corn, or potatoes. more pleasing than otherwise. For the idealist as well as the shrewd utili- After visiting the Gilbert Islander col- tarian, certainly Makawao and Kula are only, quite as typical as any racial section of names to conjure with. the Midway Plaisance, we rode on through Towards Makena over lava flows and Olowalu, just then beginning to show im- shifting sand dunes, from which we looked provement, to Maalaea where a portion of upon Molokini and Kahoolawe, fixed and
145 146 THE MID -PACIFIC peaceful objects in a restless liquid element few years ago, carried with thundering called the Pacific, here is one of the views rocks and boulders into the ready ocean. It for all Hawaii! Ulupalakua for pedestal, is not every one who can meet his death so the sea and the islands to the west fashion- dramatically. et with a beauty that grips the heart! Dr. McGettigan. the government phy- I often regret my Yankee reticence and sician, entertained us, and we spent a cheer- insusceptibility to expressed emotion (we ful evening under his friendly roof, leaving New Englanders take ours out in deep-sea in the morning for Nahiku where a few feeling), but I must say I have never plucky pioneers were clearing land and looked away, from this point without tears. planting rubber trees. As we crossed the rather obtuse corner Their small cabins in the middle of a angle of Maui, we realized why the en- newly cleared space, were tempting enough terprising Pioneer Mill Company had to a man born with primitive instincts, and abandoned its venture at Kahikinui, though their talk of rubber, tobacco, coffee, banana a little higher up there was rain enough and other culture, almost persuaded my in early days to produce wheat and potatoes companion and me to take up some of the for shipment to California. A book writ- 3000 acres of homestead land soon to be ten in 1854 describes this agricultural in- opened up. Rain is abundant, the soil rich, dustry. and everything seemed favorable to success. There is much lantana here, rather pret- We were so unregardful of time, that ty and fragrant (to me), costing large sums night came before we got started, and such to eradicate, but still valuable as a disinte- a ride as we had through the jungle! grator of rock, and a maker of soil. Our hats were caught by branches, and Although as one writer says "Maui and sometimes our heads. Luckily, modern Hawaii have 50,000 acres of pasture spoiled convention saved us from the fate of Ab- by lantana," the persistent shrub is not with- solum, and our horses, trusty, careful, out its virtues. I stand for it and prefer knowing animals that they were, carried it to the cattle it may keep out. us out and down into moonlit Keanae. With necessary rests for simple but I do not ever remember having been im- hearty meals, we passed through Nuu to pressed by the subtle beauty of things as I Kipahulu where the plantation manager was there. entertained us. We both turned boys, spoiled the air with "Dese shaps cookts ought to pe cookt song, and acted as men will. demselves," he said, at dinner, because his "Whoop-la !," we cried: "Hip-hip-hip, man brought in an underdone roast. hooray !" "I vill roast you, I vill roast you," he Why, nobody knows, except that we felt added to the smiling, innocent Oriental. A that way. Does any woman ever give a night here was very refreshing. better reason? From Kipahulu to Hana, the country A comfortable native house took us in, showed the effects of a greater rainfall, and to show us the customary degree of gradually passing from aridity to verdure. Hawaiian hospitability, the inmates forth- One large gulch assumed romantic entrance with took their mats and went under the and exit, for the road and several wash-outs house, from which place emanated an oc- gave evidence of the irresistible tumult and casional grunt of satisfaction. passage of sudden rivers to the sea. Up stairs we found an oil stove, and One unwary physician not as careful with the raw provisions of our saddle bags about his own safety as he was of the well- we were able to produce a good dinner, being of his patients, was drowned here a which we ate with a hunter's relish. THE MID -PACIFIC 147
To make things cosier, it began to rain, waiian, hymnals, and other religious works then pour, then come down in catastrophic of a serious nature. bucketfuls, and so all night. One book attracted me, a coverless vol- In the morning it was raining still. Tele- ume written in 1860, describing the very phone messages came saying that the vari- country we were passing through: ous gulches along our way were rushing "The trails over the mountains are surrounded with torrents and impassable. wild and romantic interest. The traveler frequently passes along the side of a lofty ascent, or climbs the "Don't venture home," said my wife side of a deep ravine. He may meet a bare-limbed native mounted on an ill-fed horse, which he is urging from Wailuku, her voice dripping with at a regular break-neck speed across the fearful ra- vines. Occasionally a wild bullock may stand in the rain. We could hear the vibrations and path, as if about to dispute the horses' passage." crackling effects of the blast against the In the evenings generally, there was wires. It was a Kona storm. It blew and music from below, a thrummed ukulele ac- it thundered, and the clouds fell upon us. companied by some sweet-voiced woman, Yet the moon shone. The kukuis were singing over our familiar Hawaiian songs. silver. Rainbows spanned the gulch, the Well, staying here wasn't so bad, we trees swayed and shook their locks in laugh- thought, but, being prisoners, we became ter, and all nature seemed convulsed over obsessed with a strange desire to get away the effects of a storm which couldn't make at any risk. On the third rainy morning anything take it seriously. our hosts were informed that we must go, Crash! fell an ohia tree, its roots in the and, despite their protestations, we pe •is- air like gyrating circus legs, and down ent Caucasians started. came a banana stalk scattering nearly ripe "Aole maikai," they said amidst smiles fruit about the yard. All day this lasted, and grunts: "haole pakiki " and all night: The next day, and night as And we almost repented our hazard be- well. But we were comfortable, with good fore we reached Huelo, drenched to the beds and enough to eat. Our host brought skin by cloud and wave, throttled by gusts in a pile of books and newspapers, stacked of wind, and almost carried off into some on the floor too high to jump over. chasm of terrible inevitabilities. The newspapers were old copies of the From Huelo to Wailuku the way was "Police Gazette," well thumbed. Among familiar and uneventful. the books many Bibles in English and Ha- But we were glad to be home! 148 THE MID-PACIFIC Statue of Sir Stamford Raffles at Singapore, with English Cathedral in background.
Singapore and Johore
FROM THE EDITOR'S DIARY.
February 24, 1914. bread and butter, etc., and this on top of an early repast at six o'clock. DON'T believe that living in Singa- We went down to the "Gorgon" in a pore is cheap—it only looks that way. gharry or four-wheeled vehicle and got our I At the Mansion House you pay from luggage. Taking everything into consid- sixty Straits dollars up a month for board, eration, with two or three coolies to take but you must supply your own boy to wait your luggage off the boat, and two or three on you at table and attend to your room, more to take it off the gharry, it costs a and this is at least ten dollars a month. great deal more to transfer luggage in The Mansion House is really a very good Singapore than it does in America. place for the price. The boy brought us We left our trunk and box at the tourist our breakfast in the room, and it was a bureau and rode up to Oldham Hall in two most liberal one. The coffee, however. double 'rickshas with our valises and type- was British and unpalatable. We had oat- writer. We told the Chinese 'ricksha men meal, fish eggs and bacon, hash, fruit, to take us to the Government House. I
149 150 THE MID-PACIFIC felt it in my bones that they were going that the coal-black, shorn, half-naked men wrong, but I didn't know, of course, and so we saw with white all over their faces said nothing. We passed Raffles Hotel are the money lenders from India, and the along the pretty beach road, and then turn- white is the ash of cow dung, for they ed up into a section of rows of numbered consider the cow a sacred animal. wooden cages with painted women behind. In the evening the Lord Bishop of Singa- Certainly the 'ricksha men had misunder- pore called at the house to get a lesson in stood directions. Here we met a Dutchman Malay. He took quite a fancy to Joe, and who started us on our way. We passed invited us to tea. I side-tracked it but some beautiful squares with cathedrals and Joe accepted. The Bishop seemed pleased. old style buildings of great beauty, and (I wish I could say the same for Joe.) finally were directed to Oldham Hall. We February 27, 1914. overpaid the 'ricksha men but they tried This morning we started out for Johore, the old trick of putting the money down about an hour by rail and ferry from Singa- and walking away to show their utter con- pore. I wished Joe to get his first foot on tempt—it was so like Japan. Oldham Hall Asiatic soil. The fifteen miles across the is run as a sort of American Methodist Island of Singapore is flat. There is giant boarding school. There were about 75 bamboo and some new rubber groves and boarders, mostly sons of well to do China- a few old giant trees. The houses of the men, and little force of teachers. Malayans are built of old bits of wood and The walking around town and the the whole country was not nearly so pictur- smells of the river wore me out. I was esque as Java. Everything seems spoiled measured for three suits of white and one by contact with the white man. The little of khaki, and Joe the same. They will ferry boat takes the people swiftly across average about two American dollars each the channel, and it is said that tigers some- when we get them fixed up. times swim from Johore to Singapore. February 25, 1914. Johore is a little bit of a town—has a few streets of brick buildings, a very I think I have a light touch of the dengue. ordinary palace and consul hall which we All my joints ache painfully and last night visited. The exterior was plain but the there was no sleep. interior was very artistic without being February 26, 1914. gaudy, and we appropriated a sheet or two This morning I went down town and of the Sultan's writing paper. We then met a Mr. Cheek in the office of the Water- wandered through the botanical gardens house Co. We went out together and had which are rather pretty and on to the a glass of beer and a long talk. He told mosque where we were forced to take off me of his troubles and his experience on our shoes. The mosque inside is very the rubber plantations. He has a report plain. We rode on and saw the jail and of all of them. He has been here four the leopard which is evidently being kept years, is an American and is still in good for sport, the other cages all about him be- health. ing empty. In was Friday and the post- office was closed, this being a Moham- In the afternoon Joe and I went out and medan country, so we could not get any got straw hats and wandered about the stamps or post cards. We came back to town. We visited the Chinese section and a late lunch. the place where the birds and animals are kept. Then we got lost and finally found February 28, 1914. our way back to Oldham Hall. I found Saturday afternoon I took a 'ricksha and THE MID-PACIFIC 151 started out to see the wonderful temples on The statute of Buddha might have been one Kern Keat Road, off Balastier Road. There of those wonderful things that guide books being no good guide book and map we tell you about, but to me the impression strayed beyond the distance and had to on the face seemed silly. As we went in come back, but Balestier Road is beautiful. the priest compelled us to buy a couple of We turned down the Kern Keat Road and packages of firecrackers at ten cents a pack finally came to the temple—and it is in- and shoot them off. A number of priests teresting. In fact it is a series of tem- were intoning the service. There were ples, built in the regular Chinese style, rooms of course for the priests and all with the tiled roof, pagodas and hideous kinds of corridors and dormitories. The gods. Some of these immense giants were temples are out in a plain surrounded by grotesque in the extreme, most of them fish ponds, but they are well worth a gilded or covered with colored pigment. visit.
The Mosque, Jahore. 152 THE MID-PACIFIC
Panama's new railway will open up one of the best portions of the Isthmus. In future, development will probably be rapid, for now adequate trans- portation facilities are provided. The new railway can't be very long.
Panama's New Railway
WM. A. REID.*
4 VER since the formation of the Re- many visitors to the province. Practically public of Panama it has been the from the start at Pedregal a journey over -F ambition and determination of the the line, either to Boquete or to La Con- Government to own and operate its own cepcion, will be interesting. The first part railway. This ambition has been gratified, of both routes is over the llanos or plains, for the Chiriqui Railroad is completed and which during the wet season stretch for in operation after having been accepted seemingly unending miles of lush green from the contractors by President Belisario grass with here and there a clump of trees Porras. of darker green. There is nothing of the The railway is not a very long one and tropical to meet the eye. Indeed the com- probably in other countries where railways plete absence of tropical verdure, such as is are spoken of in terms of thousands of miles seen in the vicinity of the Canal Zone, is the little narrow-gauge line in the Province striking to the stranger led to expect dense of Chiriqui would be considered an insig- tropical growth in a tropical country. nificant and wholl3, unimportant piece of From the very start the high peak of the railway construction. Not so in Panam I. Chiriqui Volcano, although nearly forty The new railway, although short, will open miles inland, can be seen, and is constantly up one of the best portions of the country, in view throughout the journey over either which through this incentive may become line. On the Boquete line, which ends al- "the garden spot of the republic." most at the foot of the mountain, the now Not the least important feature of the extinct volcano comes ever nearer, until new railway line will be the beautiful finally, when the train reaches the terminus scenery, which will undoubtedly attract at Boquete Bajo, the mountain towers into
Of the Pan-American Union Staff. 153 154 THE MID-PACIFIC
the clear morning sky or else into the are capable of great agricultural possibili- fleecy white cloud halo that surrounds the ties. The only means of communication pegk by almost every noonday. has been by trails through the jungle fast- Practically throughout the entire dis- nesses, these trails frequently becoming ab- tance to La Concepcion there are only solutely impassable during the entire period llanos to be seen with their everlasting herds of the rainy season. of grazing cattle and horses. There are few During the Spanish occupation of the hills and these are penetrated by deep cuts, Isthmus of Panama, when it was the short- out of which the train rushes over high est overland route for the transportation of spider-web steel bridges with the turbulent the vast quantities of gold and silver that mountain streams a hundred or more feet the Spanish conquistadores sent back home below. There are five or six such bridges for the coffers of the kings of Spain, there on the La Concepcion line. There are few was constructed one of the best highways stops and those are at little way stations ever built in the Western Hemisphere, the which merely proclaim the larger village Camino Real, or Royal Road. This road hidden behind a near-by grove of trees. began at the Casa Real, or Royal Treasury, The Boquete line traverses llanos for the in the old city of Panama, which later was first ten or twelve miles. Then it reaches destroyed by Morgan's buccaneers, extended the hills to again later traverse Ilanos through the village of Cruces, at the head shortly before it enters the Caldera Valley of navigation in the Rio Chagres, and ended over the long incline which the high pla- at Porto Bello, on the Atlantic Ocean, from teau, with its precipitous bluff 300 to 400 where the treasure ships sailed for Spain. feet drop into the valley, makes necessary. For years this Royal Road was the only Like the La Concepcion line, there are sev- means of communication across the Isthmus eral high, spidery steel bridges that span and was still in use for a part of its length the turbulent streams that rush down from when the gold rush to California begain the mountains on their hasty way to the sea. 1849, bringing many Americans and other Unfortunately, the traveler who come., foreigners to Panama who hoped thus to merely for the scenery is apt to be bitterly reach the gold fields quicker than by the disappointed should he chance to make the long, tedious, and dangerous Indian-infested journey during the wet season. The heavy, overland routes in the United States. With almost daily, downpour practically obscures the construction of the Panama Railway, the surrounding scenery every afternoon. which began operations in 1859, the Camino Then, too, early in the morning the rain Real was practically abandoned, and now clouds begin to gather about the Chiriqui only here and there may small portions be Volcano, which by noon is invisible behind discovered that have not altogether been this screen. This is also true of the moun- obliterated by the fast-growing jungle. tain range which forms the cordillera be- The Ferrocarril de Chiriqui cost the tween the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Government about $1,750,000, which was During the afternoons in the rainy season obtained through a bond issue sold to a there is usually nothing to be seen but a bank in the United States. The issue was thick curtain of water that floods the coun- made with the consent of the American try for miles. Government and was sold at 97 with 5 per The development of the entire Panama cent interest and redeemable within fifty Republic, except the two principal cities of years at 105. The entire proceeds of this Panama and Colon, has been retarded by bond issue are to be used in the construc- the lack of adequate transportation facili- tion of the railway. ties. There have been few wagon roads No obstacles were encountered to prevent constructed into the interior sections that the construction of the railway in Chiriqui THE MID-PACIFIC 155
Province and no difficulties were found in only a very few grades of 5 per cent, which selling the company's obligations to pay. was the limit stipulated in the contract anama, since it became an independent with the construction firm. country, has never before had a national There are signs that the building of the debt, and hence its credit in New York was new railway into the Caldera Valley and considered excellent, especially in view of the district surrounding La Concepcion the fact that the United States Government, will result in the production of at least the in a measure, has guaranteed the payment hardier vegetables, which will permit their of the railway bond issue. transportation on the slow steamers that When completed the new railroad will ply between the port of Pedregal and Pan- have a total length of approximately 62 ama. Both sections are capable of produc- miles including spurs, sidings, wyes, and ing large crops of excellent potatoes, cab- other trackage. It begins at the little vil- bages, parsnips, turnips, radishes and similar lage of Pedregal, which is the port on the vegetables and semi-tropical fruits that both Pacific Ocean for the entire province, 300 sections already raise in abundance, but miles west of Panama and about 35 miles have been unable to find a market for. south of that city. Pedregal itself is lo- Both corn and rice are produced in the cated on an estuary into which the Rio country west, northwest, and southwest of David flows. It is 4Y, miles south of La Concepcion. Both are of good quality. David, the capital of the province, which The rice is an especially good grade of up- 168 feet above sea level. land rice, and not a little of it finds its At David the railway divides into two way into the Panama market. The con- branches, one extending west and then sumption of rice in the republic is very northwest and making its terminus at La great, most of it being imported from other Concepcion, 18 miles away. The other countries, even as far away as China and line extends in a genreal northwesterly di- the Philippine Islands. Panama is capable rection with Boquete Bajo, on the Rio of producing practically all the rice she Caldera in the valley of the same name, as needs, but no effort has been made to in- its termius. The distance from David is crease the home production because of the approximately 28 miles. At Dolega, 12 poor transportation, that prevents the home miles north of David, there is a 7-mile grower from successfully competing with branch line which taps the cattle and sugar- the foreign product. It must not be for- cane country in the Potrerillos district near gotten that agriculture is not the pursuit of the foot of the famous Volcan de Chiriqui. the native Panaman. He prefers the easier One of the very striking features of the method of grazing cattle for the market. road is that in a distance of about 33 miles This requires no work. He simply turns it rises from sea level to an altitude of his few head out on the public lands and about 4500 feet, from which it climbs down ships them to Panama when he thinks they Boquete Bajo. The configuration of the are fat enough. country is such that from the ocean to the to about 4100 feet in order to enter the Last, but not least, the building of the Caldera Valley and reach the terminus at railway line will open to the residents of mountains, which form the cordillera, there the Canal Zone a delightful country in is a gradual slope upward, which the rail- which to spend a few days or weeks away way must climb to reach the best part of from the everlasting heat of the sea level the entire province. In spite of this the tropics. It will make it easier to reach a railway has been constructed with an aver- high altitude within thirty-six hours from age grade of less than 3 per cent and with Panama, a much to be desired change. 156 THE. MID-PACIFIC
Waterfall along the Kohala Ditch Trail, Island of Hawaii. Mouth of 1 faitio Palley, entrance to the Hawaiian Hades.
A Random Ramble in Kohala
By L. W. DE VIS-NORTON.
HE visitor bent upon a thorough All these things he may do to his exploration of the great Island heart's content, but, nevertheless, if he goes T of Hawaii will encounter such away without seeing Kohala, he has missed diversity of scenery and climate as prob- a large part of the pleasure to be derived ably exist in few other lands. He may from a complete tour of the island. ramble at will through the tropical dis- It has been well said that no two dis- trict of Puna, may examine the lovely series tricts in the 4000 square miles covered by of sea-washed gulches along the Hamakua the island bear the least resemblance tc Coast, climb to the eternal snows of Ha- each other; certain it is that Kohala is ut- waii's two 14,000 foot mountains, dare a terly unlike anything else, for it has a familiarity with the seething fires of Kila- peculiar charm all its own, and he whc uea, that vast mouth of the nether regions, would experience this charm would do well and may dream away a lazy week or so to tarry a few days on the breezy uplands among the historic ruins that dot the Kona or in the lower levels along its sunny Coast. beaches.
157 158 THE MID -PACIFIC
A glance at a map will show that Ko- about three hours to negotiate on horse- hala occupies the northern extension of the back. The scenery along this route can island, having the sea on three sides and only be described as utterly gorgeous, and being divided down the center by the lovers of nature at her best should most lofty summit range which sweeps upwards certainly make the journey, for it is the to a, height of some 5500 feet. The ever- perfection of beauty as it winds along the blowing trade winds roar over this back- face of mighty precipices and presently bone and pour their steady current of life- over a plateau known as Kaawana. It is giving air down to the leeward shores said that here dwell ghosts who mislead below. For the seeker after health there the traveler by imitating the voice of could indeed be no better district. I met his friends until he has hopelessly lost his only a few days ago, a stalwart .son of way. It was also a royal reserve for the Anak who told me that three years back rare o-o bird whose feathers were used in he was a physical wreck, but is now ac- the manufacture of the wonderful feather customed to rattle off his 20 miles a day, cloaks and helmets for which old Hawaii and to flirt with a few pounds of beef- was famous. These birds might only be steak every day for an appetiser; the rosy caught by command of a high chief, the cheeks of the children bear full witness to custom was to light large fires and to drive the beneficial effects of the climatic con- the birds, bewildered by the smoke, into ditions, while for the casual tourist there nets. is enough of real interest to fill several Waimanu Valley is much like Waipio crowded days. in appearance, though it is wilder and From either of the two excellent little grander. The mountain sides are steeper hotels at Waimea, excursions of unique and higher, and it is impressive in the ex- interest may be taken and visits to Wai- treme, well repaying the slight labor of get- pio and Waimanu valleys, as well as to ting there. At one time a good deal of rice Kawaihae may well occupy three de- was grown here, but the market was so far lightful days. Of Waipio, the sacred away that the industry • finally collapsed. Valley of the Dead, with its old-world Only a few natives now live in the valley village and glorious legends I have al- and even these are gradually moving away. ready written fully in these pages on a Possibly in a few years' time, the valley former occasion. No visitor has ever failed will once more be given over to silence, to carry away a vivid remembrance of its its only inhabitant a chance fugitive from towering cliffs and cloud-capped heights justice. On the other hand, it may re-echo seamed with sparkling waterfalls, neithe-- to the joyous shouts of the tourist, and the will anyone be likely to forget its hos- click of the camera may be heard in the pitable people, happy and contented in their land. Quien sabe? The whole gulch is flower-buried homes, well nigh shut oft a scenic marvel and there are several mag- from all communication with this fretfu' nificent waterfalls. outer world of ours'. Kawaihae is the steamer landing for pas- All have noticed the narrow zigzag sengers to the Waimea district, and was trail leading up the precipitious northern at one time important in history, though wall of the valley, and it is up this trail now a very quiet little place. It was vis- that the visitor must go in order to attain ited by Captain Vancouver in 1793, when to Waimanu, the mysterious and lovely. the first cattle were landed here and al- It is only six miles as the crow flies, but lowed to run wild. They soon so multi- the trail winds in and out of gulches and plied that, a few years afterwards, when through heavy forest growths, and takes Kawaihae had become a favorite calling THE MID-PACIFIC 159 place for the whaling ships, it was the cus- separated by corridors. Just what was the tom to shoot the cattle in large numbers, purpose of these various platforms, I have and salt the meat down for sale to the ships' not been able to find out. I have not seen crews. them in any other heiau, but here they are Needless to state, Kawaihae is also con- in a perfect state of preservation, though nected with Kamehameha the Great. The rapidly becoming overrun with the all- average visitor to the Hawaiian Islands pervading lantana vine. must certainly get the idea that Kameha- Kamehameha commenced the building of meha the Great was an amazingly ener- this heiau, but was told by his high priest getic man, for there is hardly any spot to to abandon it and rebuild at a higher eleva- which he did not penetrate and where he tion, as by so doing he would gain a great did not do some great deed. It rather bentfit. Kamehameha was not a Missouri reminds one of the royal beds in which man, so meekly did as he was bid ; but the Queen Elizabeth of England slept on her order was said to foretell the coming of the various costly progresses through the coun- white man, who was subsequently of great try. If indeed she slept in every bed shown assistance to the king in his many wars. to tourists, then the poor lady must have There are some who would question wheth- spent her entire life jumping out of one er the coming of the white man was a bed into another, a most undignified pro- great benefit, or even a little one. ceeding for anyone of royal blood. On the beach in front of Mailekini heiau However, there is no doubt whatever took place the dark and bloody deed which about Kawaihae, for Kamehameha lived will for ever leave an indelible stain upon there for a considerable time and soma the memory of the otherwise noble king. of the well-known events in Hawaiian his- Keoua, King of Kau, was the most danger- tory occurred there. Here on the beach ous foe of Kamehameha, and even out- even now stands the stone chair in which ranked him in purity of birth. He was the great king used to sit to watch the the half-brother of Kiwalao, who at Ke- fishing ,and just above it are the extensive oua's instigation attempted to wrest the best ruins of two heiaus (temples) closely con- fishing grounds from Kamehameha and nected with his name. The upper of these was killed in the subsequent fighting. Soon was built about the year 1580, but was after this, Kamehameha was called to Maui, rebuilt by the king in 1791 and by him but hearing that Keoua was plotting to steal consecrated to his war-god Kaili. The his land hurried back to give battle to him. walls are remarkably well preserved and Keoua at once collected his armies to- show many traces of the interior arrange- gether and marched out from Hilo for Ko- ments with several fine terraces toward hala. It will be remembered that an ex- the sea. Its dimensions are about 224 by plosive eruption of Kilauea took place as 100 feet and it is certainly one of the finest Keoua's armies were passing near the vol- of the halaus now remaining. It was cano, and part of the army was entirely known as Puukohola, or "whale hill," prob- destroyed. This event put great heart into ably from the shape of the eminence upon Kamehameha, who was convinced thereby which it stands. that he was highly favored by the gods, Directly below it toward the beach, lies especially by the god of war, in whose honor Mailekini. This possesses a low wall on he at once built Puukohola. the seaward side and a higher one towards After a shorn time Kamehameha sent the mountain. It measures about 270 by runners to Keoua at Kau inviting him to 65 feet and the interior contains several come to Kawaihae and make peace after finely floored platforms of different shapes nine years of enmity. Keoua agreed and 160 THE MID-PACIFIC arrived in a large double canoe with his much of it, but this ancient tunnel is one attendants, but was stabbed to death as of the most wonderful achievements car- he jumped ashore. Some of his followers ried out in ancient times. It is generally were also killed, and it is part of the irony attributed to Kamehameha, but the natives of fate that Keoua's body should have been themselves are uninimous in the opinion that offered up as a sacrifice to Kamehameha's the work is of a much earlier date than war-god in the new heiau. that, and it is only in the infinite patience Kohala town is unique in its way; it with which it was carried out that one might be described as a little bit of Eng- seems to recognize the spirit which ani- land set down in the midst of the Pacific, mated the life of the great king. for here is a coterie of truly delightful peo- What would you do, my reader, if you ple of English origin; the blue or red badg' were given a stone adze, and told to make of the Overseas Club of Great Britain a long winding tunnel through a quarter adorns every male lapel, and the visitor of a mile of solid rock to a particular point who is fortunate enough to be provided on the other side? I know I should give with credentials to the district will at once it best, with the utmost alacrity, but then find himself the object of a lavish and I am not an inventive genius like the early generous hospitality which will make his Hawaiian. This is how he settled the prob- stay in this part of the great island one lem: He first planned out the line of his of keenest delight and enjoyment. tunnel, and then proceeded to dig shallow Kohala was the district in which Kame- holes at intervals of a few feet along the hameha spent all his early boyhood and line. In these holes he lighted fires and so manhood, and the whole district is natural- softened down the lava rock until he could ly filled with legends of this truly remark- dig it out and send it to the surface in able man. His statue stands in front of lauhala baskets. When the proper depth the court house, and, be it noted, this is the had been reached, he tunnelled right and one and only original statue, and the famous left by the same method to the adjoining statue in Honolulu but a base copy. The shafts, and so, by this means, the tunnel Kohala statue suffered shipwreck en route was made. Simple, isn't it? And yet, civil from Italy, but, such a mishap was child's- engineers go to that tunnel today and play to the good people of Kohala who very marvel at the manner in which the line was promptly had it fished up again and placed kept. it where it now stands on a perfectly plain Speaking of tunnels brings us at last pedestal of native stone, flanked by gilded to our objective point, the lower ditch trail. tabu sticks. Why these gigantic works, carried out with The visitor will certainly wish to see the such consummate skill should be termed lower of the famous Kohala Ditch trails, "ditches," passes my poor comprehension, and for this purpose he should secure the for the lower Kohala ditch is a tunnel which services of someone who knows the way to runs for miles through solid rock, hardly the entrance. On the way thither is an ever more than a few feet from the outer object of truly remarkable interest in the wall which falls sheer into the valley be- shape of an irrigation tunnel leading low. These tunnels carry water to a huge through the flank of a hill and emerging area of land and have made a rich and by a spleididly engineered grade above a prolific country out of what was originally series of terraced paddy fields where rice a barren lava district. The Kohala ditches is now grown. Now, in these days, a tunnel is just a contain over 23 miles of flume and water hole in the ground, and nobody thinks very tunnel of which no less than 11 miles have THE MID -PACIFIC 161 been driven through the mountain skies in Dame Nature may be seen at her very the magnificently constructed tunnels. grandest and has completed a work which The trail which follows the line of the is nothing short of marvelous. ditch has been cut and blasted out of the The ditch trail may be followed right face of the perpendicular cliff, and in some around the head of the valley opening out places is fully 3000 feet above the floor of ever new vistas of grandeur, until it the valley. It is about six feet wide and emerges at the summit on the opposite side may be traversed in perfect safety on horse- of the valley, from whence it may be fol- back. It winds into the great Pololu lowed to its terminus at the seaward end of Gulch and at the first curve there is a very the gulch, which may then be crossed by beautiful waterfall some 1400 feet in height the beach and so leads back to Kohala which sweeps under a small footbridge and again. then leaps headlong to the depths below. This is only a random ramble; there is A short distance farther on there is another very much more of interest in the Kohala bend where the trail passes behind a glori- district, including the great Mookini heiau ous waterfall which hurls its torrent-over in) which the lost gods of Samoa were the cliff edge. The difficulties of constru' found not so very long ago. It would not tion were very great here, for the men had be easy to lay down any hard and fast to be lowered by ropes from the summit program for tourists in Kohala ; the whole and the path is literally carved inch by inch district is fascinating, the scenery beyond out of the rock. It says much for the en- compare and the people the very acme of gineers that not one single life was lost hospitality. The visitor who tarries for on this section notwithstanding the arduous few days will be constrained to stay longer and nerve-wracking character of the work. and will at last tear himself away de- Not a word have I yet said of the pros- termined to show his worth as an enthusi- pect to be seen from the trail. It is so won- astic member of the Kohala "Come Back derful as to be awe-inspiring, for here Club."
Wall of Mailekini heiau, Kanvaihar. 16 2 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Maori maid is perhaps the most attractive of all Polynesians. She is not given to obesity like many oft her Pacific sisters, and when clothed in her native dress is certainly charming to the eye. Maori Warrior.
The Story of Tawera
(AS TOLD BY MAKI.)
GA, 0 my friends, harken to the Tawera, daughter of Otene, was the pride story of Tawera. of that mighty hapu. Bright were her eyes N In yonder valley, near to the as the evening stars, sweet her voice as the place where the winding Waipona is lost in soft-toned rehu, gentle her ways as those of the foaming surf, once stood the kainga of the kuku. To win her love was the aim of the great Ngapuhis. Their lands were every youthful warrior, and her beauty was wide, their warriors brave and their women ever the theme of their songs. beautiful. At length there came a day when the
163 16-I THE MID-PACIFIC
of his hapu, waved aloft the Rangatira's mere tapu, and shouted the rallying warcry of his father. The tide of battle turned. No longer leaderless, the Ngapuhis united, sent their old, answering war shout ringing forth, and charged with the resistless fury of a storm-lashed sea. The Arawas, unable to stem the staggering onrush, wavered, hopes of many were shattered, for Puna, broke and fled. son of the great Rangatira, found that her Scarce was the conquering rush completed love was given to him. The joy of the hapu when the women streamed from the pah was great, for Puna was well beloved, and and, running swiftly downward, gathered mighty were the preparations for the mar- in groups about the forms of the fallen. riage feast. The shouts of the victorious Ngapuhis died The days passed by and at last the sun away in the far pursuit; the kainga was of the marriage eve went down in a glow filled with wailing lamentat:,ns for the of golden splendour. Long ere the spirits dead. of the night stole forth the kainga was The day was almost over, and the long wrapped in the peace of slumber, but ere shadows of early evening were traveling the sun had lighted the eastern sky all down into the valley, before the returning things had become changed. With the firs• warriors appeared in view. Ceasing their grey streaks of dawn came a sound that tangi, the women hurried forward to meet roused the Napu with the speed of a light- them. Standing at the door of her whare, ning flash; warriors seized their weapon- Tawera eagerly scanned the approaching and rushed forth ; mothers gathered their throng in search of the figure of Puna. children around them and fled swiftly to She saw the people meet and mingle and the pah; for echoing and re-echoing from heard the glad, welcoming cries; but soon hill to hill, loud above the shouts of the fast a wild, deadly chill of fear swept over her. gathering Ngapuhis, came the wild warcr• Turning, they gazed at her with pitying of the Arawas. eyes. Swift and merciless was the onslaught Borne on the crossed spears of the hapu's and bloody the carnage that ensued as the greatest war chiefs, they carried him to lines of warriors met. Up in the pah, safe where she stood and laid him at her feet. from the showers of flying spears and the A low, long moan of agony burst from her deadly strokes of the meres, the women watched the issue with wildly beating hearts and straining eyes. Tawera, vainly en- deavored to follow the form of Puna, as by the side of his father he fought where the battle waged thickest. Backward and forward surged the battling warriors, and fast fell the tribesmen of the Ngapuhis. Sud- denly, from behind the palisades, arose shrill cries of terror and dismay ; their Rangatira had fallen and their warriors were being driven toward the pah. The day seemed lost. Not so, however, for at the critical moment Puna sprang to the front THE MID-PACIFIC 165 lips, and, shrouding her head in her kahu, looked for a moment with wild, despairing she crouched to the earth beside the lifeless eyes at the pitying faces round her, then form. In sorrowful silence they stood turned, and pushing her way through the about her, until at last an aged chief ad- throng, sped swiftly towards the beach. dressed her: Wonderingly they watched her flying fig- "Tawera, 0 my daughter, great must ure. They saw her reach the reef and climb be your grief. To you the light of life upon it. Springing from rock to rock, she seems gone, the fair, bright days of summer followed in the wake of a retreating breaker lost forever behind dark winter clouds. until she reached the outmost edge. For a Puna, your lover, great in strength and moment longer they saw her, outlined clear- swift in battle, beloved of our hapu, fell ly against the white sky-line, and then the by the hand of an Arawa. Utu must be incoming billow swept forward. . taken. Your utu is the utu of our hapu. The last rays of the setting sun flashed Arise, I say, to live and smile upon him brightly through the mass of flying foam: who takes your utu for you." the soul of Tawera was with Puna's in the To the old chief's words Tawera paid no Great Reinga. heed. Suddenly she sprang to her feet, Nga, 0 my friends, the story is told!
The gentle Maori greeting.
166 THE MID-PACIFIC
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Street in "Intramuras" or old Manila. This section of the city is still Spanish in architecture, and therefore picturesque. The thorough- fares are still "Galles," greetings are exchanged in Spanish, and one can easily imagine that he is in a city of old Spain. Governor-General and Mrs. Francis Burton Harrison of the Philippines.
America in the Far East
By KIRK MUNROE.
OR obvious reasons no city of the though convinced that it will eventually Orient can be of greater interest to take to the water, still makes desperate ef- F to an American traveler than is the forts to prevent it from so doing. But while metropolis of the Philippines. While it is at present the Philippines as a whole are our own town by right of conquest, by worse than worthless to us, the city of Ma- right of purchase, and by right of occupa- nila together with its magnificent harbor tion, it also is a city where every aspect is is of such vital importance as to have be- so foreign to the American visitor that he come one of our most valuable possessions, is constantly agape with wonder at its and it alone is well worth the price we have sights, sounds, methods of transacting busi- paid. Without it we would have so little ness, and everything that it is or does. As voice in the affairs of the far East that, regards the Philippines in general our even if we spoke, no one would pay atten- predicament is very similar to that of a tion. With it, out slightest whisper in that hen that has hatched a duckling, and, direction is listened to with respect, and our
167 168 THE MID-PACIFIC very wishes are anticipated. If, by any The broad expanse of Manila Bay is means, we should lose Manila, our influ- ringed with mountains, and its shores are ence in the Orient would sink to a par with heavily forested, but most of the firewood that of France in the New World after the used in the city is brought from Borneo, or loss of Quebec; but, holding it, we also from distant Singapore, because the Fili- hold the balance of power on the Pacific. pinos are too indolent to cut the abundant Manila then is an American city "to have supply growing at their very doors. and to hold" for so long as we desire to After crossing this beautiful bit of land- remain a world power with an equal voice locked sea the ship comes to anchor a mile in the affairs of nations. or so from shore, off the mouth of the Pasig Viewed in this light it is a city that no River, and if darkness has fallen, or the sun American traveler can afford to omit from is anywhere near its setting, passengers his itinerary. It is so easy of access that he must remain on board until the nex morn- may reach it by way of Japan without leav- ing. There is, however, plenty to interest ing the steamer that has brought him from them as they lounge in long, cane-woven San Francisco; while from Hong-Kong, steamer-chairs under the deck-awnings, and only two days distant, there is at least one gaze at the brilliantly illumined city out- first-class passenger steamer every week . spread in a great semicircle before them. There is a French line from Saigon, two Nearer at hand shine the myriad lights of North German Lloyd's per month from anchored shipping, with here and there a Singapore, a monthly British India from grim man-of-war flashing colored signals Calcutta, and cargo boats from half the from tall mastheads. In the blazing firma- ports of the world. ment many of the newcomers now note for Manila Bay may be likened to a huge the first time the four pendant jewels of the bottle very loosely corked by Corregidor Southern Cross, and realize that they are Island. This frowning mass of rock fairly within the tropics. nearly blocks the entrance, but leaves a Most interesting of all is to watch the narrow channel on either side. No Ameri- gleaming torches of innumerable fishing can can fail to be filled with honest pride as canoes that, from the fall of darkness until he surveys the situation and recalls that midnight, dart to and fro, like so many fire- memorable May day in 1898. Of course the flies, over the placid waters, in pursuit of a alleged sea fight off Cavite that followed small silvery fish that swarms in this part Dewey's arrival was the mere battering to of the bay. Attracted by the flaring torch, pieces, from a safe distance, of a lot of help- and its reflected glare, this willing victim less craft that the Spaniards had vainly im- does not wait to be caught, but leaps into agined to be war-ships. But when he sees the canoe of his own accord, until the craft Corregidor that should have been, and was is so full that its enticing torches must be supposed to be heavily fortified, and when extinguished to avert disaster. During he notes the narrow channel between it the whole of their fishing the canoemen and Miravales Point that should have been, keep up a furious beating on the sides and and was supposed to be paved with mines gunwales of their craft with hardwood at the time of the American approach, he sticks, and with hundreds of them thus en- realizes the sublime heroism that, without gaged the racket is appalling. Why they tremor or sign of faltering, sent those do this is a mystery to the uninitiated. Per- American ships through midnight darkness, haps to call attention to their most desirable into what was believed to be the very jaws torches, or possibly as a musical inducement of death, and he has ample reason to be for the fish to enter the boats, though it proud of his birthright. would seem as though such a bedlam might THE MID-PACIFIC 169
frighten away every fish south of the Tropic their fine old gates which soon are to be of Cancer. demolished and thrown into the moat, that In early morning the ship is boarded by the winds of heaven may freely circulate just such a throng of blue-uniformed, burst- through the stagnant streets. Later in the ing with importance, health and customs day, drive out to Malacanan, where, on a officials as may be encountered in the har- bank of the Pasig, the governor lives, and bors of New York or San Francisco ; and shortly before sunset join the carriage par- a steam-launch flying the absurd eagle ade on the lunetta where the band plays of the American Customs Service waits every evening, and where all political alongside to convey passengers, with their prisoners, condemned to death, used to be luggage, to the embarcadero aduana or cus- shot. tom-house landing. It is half a mile above The best excursion of all is by native the mouth of the Pasig, up which the launch launch up the entire length of the Pasig threads its way amid a swarm of small inter- River, past banks picturesquely fringed island steamers, canoes, and native sailing with palms, bamboos and native huts, to craft, all flying American flags and holding and across the wide, fresh-water expanse of to their rights-of-way with more than Laguna de Bay, stopping at Pasig and San American independence. On the right frown Pedro Mascati, on the river Santa Cruz, the gray wall and medieval towers of an- and San Fernando on the Laguna, and re- cient Manila, while on the left is outspread turning by evening boat of the same day. the unwalled and more modern town. All the river sights are novel and interest- On this side the passenger lands to undergo ing, but the one that will most particularly the ordeal of the custom-house, which is attract tourist attention is the human not nearly so severe as at home, save in dredgers. These are naked natives, work- one particular. No firearm, dirk, or other ing in pairs, with the aid of small flat bas- weapon more deadly than a penknife may kets and a canoe. The canoe is moored be carried into Manila, and the free-born above the sand-bar that needs removing, American citizen protests vigorously against while the human dredgers jump overboard . having his revolver, together with its am- and bring up the bottom by basketfuls until munition, taken from him by American their craft is laden. This is government officials on American soil. In spite of pro- work, primitive and slow, but cheap and tests, and threats of what he will do when effective. he gets home, he is obliged to submit to the The things to purchase in Manila are indignity of being disarmed, nor will his cigars, the one product that is at the same gun be returned to him until he is once time cheap and of excellent quality, a dress more on shipboard and about to leave the pattern of pina cloth, made from pineapple country. fizer, as fine as silk and more durable, an- The things to do in Manila are, first, to other of Jose cloth, which is mixed pina and visit the Americanized and, therefore, silk, a Manila hat, which is as much lighter scrupulously cleanly markets in the early and finer than the best Panama as the lat- morning, and the 'fine old cathedral a little ter is finer than an ordinary lot of plaited later. Apply very early at the office of straws, and photographs. your hotel for a carriage, and if you are Having accomplished and acquired these lucky enough to get one, as well as suffi- things, the traveler may, with a clear ciently provided with funds to stand the conscience, take his departure from this expense, drive through the walled city most distant, most expensive, hottest, most where the pure Spanish architecture of the important, most troublesome, and least buildings is a source of endless delight, and hopeful of all Uncle Sam's colonial posses- examine well the massive ramparts with sions. 170 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Bishop Museum, in which is to be seen the finest collection of Polynesian curios in the world.
On the beautiful, winding road to the Nuuanu Pali, six miles from Honolulu. Honolulu Just About the City HERE are few cities in the world feet high, that the Conquerer, Kameha- that can equal or excel Honolulu meha, drove the warriors of Kalanikupule, T in attractions for the tourist. There King of Oahu. Thousands were hurled is always something to do, somewhere to to death. The view of Windward Oahu go, whether one stops off for a month's from the Pali is inspiring. holiday, or merely with his steamer. A few Punchbowl—An extinct volcano, so interesting sights are given below, but named because of its shape. It rises 500 there are many others which will prove feet and can be ascended in a few minutes much more enjoyable if the seeker will find by taking the trail leading up the sea face them for himself. of the cone. An automobile driveway also The Aquarium—In Kapiolani Park, leads to the summit, from which one may Waikiki, adjoining the Public Sea Baths. enjoy a charming view of Honolulu and Take Waikiki car to door. Open daily surrounding country. from 10 a. m. to 5 p. m., Sundays 1 to Tantalus—A peak back of Honolulu, 5 p. m. Admission, 25c. Saturdays free. 2,000 feet high. A favorite morning or No aquarium can boast of a collection afternoon outing is a "hike" up Tantalus. of fish more unique in form or coloring. An excellent six-mile carriage drive to the Here Hawaii's famous "painted fishes" are summit is nearing completion. The view seen. from this point is judged by many to be The Bishop Museum In the grounds of — the most beautiful on the island. the Kamehameha School for Boys. Take Kalihi car to gate. Open to the public Moanalua—The magnificent estate of daily from 10 a. m. to 4 p. m., except Wed- Hon. S. M. Damon, three and one-half nesday and Sunday. Admission free. miles from Honolulu, just beyond Fort The Museum will richly repay the ex- Shafter. Open to visitors. Take west- penditure of almost any amount of time bound King Street (Kalihi) Car to within its walls. It has brought together terminus. Here one may enjoy wonderful one of the most interesting and valuable Japanese gardens, tiny artificial and natural collections of Polynesian and Micronesian waterfalls, and rose gardens. curiosities and relics extant. Royal Mausoleum — In the Nuuanu The Nuuanu Pali—Six miles from Cemetery, near end of the Nuuanu Car Honolulu by one of the prettiest driveways line. The Royal Mausoleum holds the re- in the world. mains of seventeen of the royal family of It was over the Pali or Precipice, 1200 the Kamehameha Dynasty.
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The dainty little maid of Japan is always a delectable person. Her dress seems always to harmonize with her age and her surroundings. In this respect she can teach a lesson to her sex across the sea. Artistic dress and flower decoration are a science in Dai Nippon.
Fashions in Japan
By T. HAYASHI.
4 VERY age and period have their On reaching its third year the child is own particular styles. For a new- presented in the temple, when a new dress F born baby girl the color is peach of better material is worn. The younger with lining to match, there being a super- girls usually wear dresses of beautifully stition that this color keeps away small- figured crepe with an artistic obi, or sash, pox. After two years the little girl is of silk, also figured. The everyday dressed in a regular kimono of figured mus- kimono is somewhat plainer and of cotton lin over which a jacket without sleeves is but usually quite pretty and becoming. worn in winter; and in recent years a lack Until her seventh year the girl's hair is of taste has been shown in putting on a allowed its natural growth, though some white calico apron or pinafore. Sometimes small girls have tonsure and bangs. At this takes the form of a long bib that is the end of the sixth year the girl goes to neither foreign nor Japanese. school and then some of her fashions have
173 174 THE MID-PACIFIC
to change. Over their ordinary kimono dress materials, it being a conviction that they are obliged to wear a hakama, a kind smaller designs do not show off well in of divided skirt kilted or deeply pleated. rooms furnished in western style. The old The wealthier classes wear kimonos of silk much-loved colors and tones in indigo, drab or muslin and the poorer people cotton. The and indigo-green are now giving way to regulation dress of girls for school is a louder tones of deep purple and even plain black cotton cloth with colored hakama, black. The ceremonial dress of the Japan- the family crest being on the sleeves and ese lady of sorts is black silk crepe, bearing on the back. The hair is then worn down the family crest in five places with under the back in plaits or loose, with a bow of dress of white silk, the contrast of colors- ribbon. In many cases the style is not being regarded as pleasing. unlike that of western girls. Of course there are brighter colors that At the age of thirteen or fourteen may be used for less ceremonial occasions when the girl enters a higher school there than those demanding the formal black is another change in dress. The change is dress of etiquette. Then one under dress more in material than in style, however, is sufficient ; but after the age of thirty the figures and designs ornamenting the the darker colors must predominate in the material being smaller or more conventional. dress of a lady. At a recent wedding the The hair is dressed on the top of the head, bride of a young viscount had cranes and often in foreign fashion, as well as in na- pine branches ornamenting the lower hem tive style, according to the family taste. of the bridal dress, such being in Japan On the whole it may be said that the emblems of a long and happy life. The younger the girl the lighter and more gay daughter of another nobleman had double- will be the patterns worn, though all ages petaled chrysanthemums embroidered on her below seventeen wear gaily-colored gar- wedding dress and another bride had cherry ments, the difference being that the de- blossoms with leaves. The daughter of a signs grow smaller in figure with increase marquis had dwarf bamboo leaves and of years. gentian flowers, while yet another lady of In recent years there has been a growing high rank had wisteria blossoms drooping preference for larger patterns in ladies' from pines and cherry trees. Another very THE MID-PACIFIC 175 pretty wedding dress recently seen was em- show with the skirt of the outer garment broidered with pine trees with sea waves in as the lady walks. In summer the color the background. But all the beautiful must be artistic and cool looking. The forms and aspects of nature are used, such haneri usually has designs of flowers or vines as plum blossoms, peonies, rushes with and the material is silk crepe or an imita- waves, dwarf bamboo on snow, a willow tion. The tone is always much gayer and landscape, male and female cherry blossoms, brighter than the rest of the dress. Double hollyhock, maple leaves and many others. cherry blossoms or plum blossome are very Usually the skirt decorations follow the sea- popular for haneri patterns. But older sons : something typical of spring, summer, ladies, such as those above thirty, wear less autumn or fall. The more economical conspicuous shades, as bamboo leaves, grey ladies adopt the chrysanthemum, as that, rushes, wisteria and waves. The more per- being the national flower, can be worn at fectly the haneri harmonizes with the other all seasons. garments in color and design the more taste A most important part of all ladies' does the lady show. dress is the haneri, a kind of collar that When one looks at a well dressed Japan- appears above the collar of the outer gar- ese lady the first thing that strikes the ment, supposed to be the visible part of the eye is the haneri, and thence the eye traces chemise. The first quality of this is that the colors and designs downward ; and if it shall be in keeping with the rest of the the experience is without disappointment to dress in color and design. The under gar- sense of artistic taste and propriety there is ments are all of importance, since they pleasure to the beholder.
Anglo-Saxon children in dainty Japanese costume. 176 THE MID-PACIFIC
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Japan in Hawaii. The hardest problem which the sugar planters have to face is that of labor. Filipinos and Russians were brought to Hawaii in ship loads, but the Japanese have proven the most satisfactory of all. A "T. K. K." steamer entering busy Honolulu harbor.
An Economic Study of Hawaii
By ALBERT P, TAYLOR. Director Hawaii Promotion Committee.
-I T IS seventeen years since, by Reso- other parts of the globe the greatest scien- lution of Annexation, the United tific minds; so that where five tons of su- States acquired the Hawaiian Islands gar per acre were once developed, ten tons as a unit in the American Republic; and per acre are often recorded at the present it is but fifteen years since the status of a time. territorial government was accorded the From a broad standpoint, the question is people of the Islands by the sovereign Re- often asked, "Do the people of the Ha- public. "Within this period the Islands have waiian Islands feel that annexation to the reached their greatest prosperity, a pros- United States was an economically appro- perity derived principally from its own priate conclusion to their independent great industry—sugar—an industry brought national existence?" A complete analysis to the highest stages of attainment by the of this question involves the military view- application of every scientific method which point, inasmuch as there was never an will increase the output per acre. In other American soldier upon Hawaiian shores words, where two blades can be made to until the Spring of 1898, although the grow instead of one, the planters in the United States long had had control of Hawaiian Islands have spared no expense, Pearl Harbor on which to locate a coaling and to accomplish this, have brought from base whenever the Washington Government
177 178 THE MID-PACIFIC
desired to take advantage of the cession of Gradually the Hawaiian Islands have be- the body of water provided in the terms of come the foci of commercial and maritime the Reciprocity Treaty of 1876. Had it enterprises which are indissolubly connec- not been for the Spanish War and the gen- ted with the building of the Panama Canal. eral movement of troops toward the Phil- Hawaii came into the Union with a ippines, it is just possible that the Ha- debt of $4,000,000, but with assets of waiian Islands would have retained their Rockefeller dimensions. She turned over independence. The representatives of the to the American Government many public Republic of Hawaii used every argument buildings and lands of extreme value along to convince the Washington authorities the waterfronts and in the business sections that the Islands should be annexed. While of the city, particularly for military and the movement was strong in itself to en- naval purposes. Customs duties, averaging list the co-operation of the National law- $1,500,000 per annum, collected through- makers, yet it remained for the War De- out the Islands, have gone into the Treas- partment to call attention to the fact that ury of the United States, and the same should the Hawaiian Islands decide to re- with postal and internal revenues. main neutral in the war with Spain, the Hawaii has one great main industry. Its movement of troops across the wide Pacific "bread is buttered on both sides with su- would be fraught with many transporta- gar." Its problems of production, which tion difficulties, chief among which would are closely interlocked with those of labor be the retention aboard the make-shift and immigration, have caused the Islands transports of thousands of raw volunteers. much annoyance because the United States The transport service was inadequate, and, laws were applied to them without the without any precedents, the army apparen- changes which different conditions deman- tly possessed little knowledge of a proper ded. Laws which may be good for Ver- handling of troops aboard vessels. The mont and Kansas may not be entirely appli- navy also needed a port of call and coaling cable to Hawaii. This was instanced when facilities, which, up to that time, had not many years ago plans for a school house been provided at Pearl Harbor. With these were prepared in Washington for Hawaii. arguments at hand, annexation soon be- When they investigated in Honolulu, it came a fact. Two years elapsed before the was found that provision had been made territorial form of government was accor- for a basement equipped with a furnace ded to the Islands. for heating the school! This school build- Since annexation, the sugar industry has ing was of a type originally and necessarily been more prosperous than at any time intended for Vermont, and yet the Wash- during its industrial life. A large amount ington authorities endeavored to have the of American capital has poured into the same plans followed in Hawaii. It has . Islands ; sugar estates have been developed been the same with many of the laws. They almost to the maximum of production; do not fit. irrigation systems have been constructed on Hawaii has scoured the world for labor- all the Islands so that the sugar industry ers. They have been brought from China, could be developed on a more economical Japan, Korea, Spain, Portugal, the Philip- basis; new shipping lines have been organ- pines, India, Porto Rico, Southern United ized to carry the increasing output of sugar, States, Russia, Norway, and the South Seas 'pineapples and small farm products. Ha- —and all at a vast cost to the Islands. After waiian sugar has done more to upbuild the annexation the immigration laws of the American merchant marine in the last sev- United States automatically applied to the enteen years than almost any other factor Hawaiian Islands and shut off many sources of American influence or products. of supply. The Exclusion Act automati- THE MID PACIFIC 179
cally prevented Chinese from entering the bring the entire territory of the Hawaiian islands. They were probably the best Islands voluntarily under the American plantation laborers in the world, yet, since flag. 1898, not another arrival has been recorded In the many financial panics which have from China. run the gamut of the financial marts of the Because they urge the retention of the mainland, the Islands have shouldered their tariff on sugar, Hawaiians are charged with burdens, and the burdens of the nation to being un-American ; if they ask for the sus- some extent, and have borne them with pension of the Coastwise Law so that tour- American stoicism. They are fighting to ists, even, may travel on any vessel that retain the American flag in the wide Pacific plies between Honolulu and San Francisco and upon all the seas. But in the last and vice versa, they are charged with not analysis, Hawaiian's problems should be only a lack of patriotism, but with deliber- regarded as problems of a different nature ately attempting to drive American ship- from those of the remainder of the nation. ping from the seas. At this time, when the Were the Hawaiian Islands not islands, but Pacific Mail Steamship Company, which contiguous territory, cheek by jowl with was established more than half a century Pennsylvania, Illinois, Kansas or California, ago, has actually withdrawn its vessels from the general laws of the United States would the service, they have decided that no enfold Hawaii equally with the others. But charge of being un-American shall be laid she is 2,000 miles distant from the Ameri- at their .doors. Any such charge made can mainland, down near the South Seas, against those who reside in the Islands is with a population entirely different from ridiculous, for nowhere else in America's the average population of the United States, broad domain has Americanism been so con- both in training and in manner of living. spicuous and so consistent as in the Ha- It was for this reason that the Islanders waiian Islands. The missionaries of 1820 invited a large number of members of planted the seeds of American patriotism Congress to visit the Islands on three dif- in the Hawaiian Islands, and those princi- ferent occasions to view these problems at ples have grown and become sturdy and first hand, and paid all their expenses from have eventually proved strong enough to Washington and return.
W hen the Atlantic Fleet visited Honolulu. 180 THE MID—PACIFIC Pipes of rare woods and ivory, mounted in gold and jade, ready for destruction.
China's Victory Over Opium
By GENERAL L. CHANG. Military Advisor to the President of China.
HE subject of opium, its uses, abuses, (1782) : "The importation of opium being its history and growth, and its in- strongly prohibited by the Chinese govern- T fluence on the human race is a large ment, and a business altogether new to us, one. It may be viewed from many sides, it was necessary to take our measures (for and many of those who study the question disposing of a cargo) with the utmost cau- hold widely differing opinions. It is a tion." matter of great interest and importance, es- The Imperial Government of China pecially in China. resolutely opposed the trade. Many provin- Opium has long been known in China as cial officers regularly accepted bribes and a drug. Opium smoking began apparently encouraged it. As the traffic grew, the in Formosa about two centuries ago. The drain of native silver intensified the hostility vice spread, causing much alarm, and edicts of the Chinese. The smuggling boats were were issued for its suppression. Opium is armed ; affrays with loss of life became fre- known officially in Chinese as "foreign quent. medicine," and popularly as "foreign After the early wars, in order to save smoke." China has been fighting against the drain of silver, China began the evil opium for more than a hundred years, but plan of planting opium on a large scale. In has met with many set backs and for a long 1871 an ambassador said the Chinese Gov- time almost gave up the fight. ernment were contemplating producing Warren Hastings, in reviving the opium opium in China. Since this time the growth monopoly in India, described it as "a per- of opium in China has been largely in- nicious article of luxury, which ought not creasing, until the Chinese Government. to be permitted but for the purposes of for- more thoroughly alarmed at the injury be- eign commerce only." The Company's ing done, is making great efforts to sup- supercargoes at Canton wrote to Calcutta press it.
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The real modern campaign against opium 5.—No new shops to be opened. Shops began in 1906. to be confiscated—owners punished. On September 20 of that year, the fol- 6.—Free distribution of anti-opium rem- lowing Imperial Edict was issued by the edies—morphia prohibited. Chinese Government : 7.—Anti-opium Societies to be formed "Since the days when opium was first and officially supported. permitted, the poison has spread all over 8.—Occicials over 60 must abandon the the country, and opium smokers waste their habit within six months. All others within time and neglect their duty—in fact, their three months. physical strength is exhausted, and they 9.—To approach the British Minister bring ruin on their families. For several with a request for abolition of Indian cul- tens of years now the people of China have tivation in 10 years. In other cases China been gradually growing poorer and weaker will act independently. day by day, and this is due entirely to the 10.—The Viceroys must issue proclama- vicious and disgusting habit of opium smok- tions embodying these regulations. ing. The Throne is now anxiously con- Many edicts against opium have been sidering how the nation may be made issued since then. All over the nation opium strong and prosperous, and efforts are being dens have been closed, and officials and made to introduce many reforms. Warning people are working hard to rid the land of must therefore be given to all the people the opium habit. that every one must assist to get rid of the As to the use of opium at this time-1906 evil of this terrible practise, so that all may —it is difficult to learn exactly how wide- enjoy renewed health, strength, and pros- spread it was. Various estimators claim that perity. Let the poison of foreign and na- a moderate figure would be between 10 and tive opium be done away with within the 20 per cent of the male population, or 2% period of ten years, and let the Council of to 5% of the total population. It is said Government Reforms draw up regulations that in some places 80% of the adult males whereby the people may be prevented not used opium, and at least one-tenth of the only from smoking but from planting the women. Before the present anti-opium poppy plant. Let these regulations be sub- campaign began, there were over 1,000 reg- mitted to the Throne as soon as they are istered opium dens in the city of Foochow prepared that they may be approved." alone. It was more common than rice. The Regulations were issued in Peking, Nov- Chinese often call it the "black rice." It ember 22, 1906, as follows: is also estimated that opium costs the people of China 200 millions of dollars per year. 1.—Cultivation of opium and its use to Sir Robert Hart said that the ordinary tax cease within 10 years. If orders are evaded, of 60 taels per picul, for the year 1897 lands to be-confiscated. Rewards if abolish- should amount to 20 million taels or about ed earlier. 15 million dollars gold. This shows the 2.—Smokers and amounts to be register- greatness of the task of opium prohibition. ed. None to begin its use after these regu- But the people and the Government both lations. took up the fight with earnestness and vigor. 3.—Smokers under 60 must reduce the A report published in Shanghai speaks of use 20 per cent per year. Names of users 1906 as the "Great Year of Anti-Opium," after 10 years to be publicly exposed. but says that 1907 was the "Greater Year 4.—Shops to close gradually. All dens of Anti-Opium." President Roosevelt in in six months. Sale of pipes, etc., to cease 1907 arranged for an anti-opium conference within a year. of a dozen nations, namely, China, japan. THE MID-PACIFIC 183
Siam, Turkey, Persia, the United States, and trade in opium must come to an end. Great Britain, France, Russia, Germany. Opium shops must be closed. Only by rigor- Portugal, Italy and Holland, to meeet in ously carrying out this measure can the cul- Shanghai, February 1, 1909. In 1907 also tivation be successfully prohibited, as it the International Reform Bureau sent out makes the sale of any native grown opium to China a special secretary to co-operate difficult." with China in the great battle against The resolutions adopted look forward to opium. the suppression of the practise of opium On January 20, 1909, the Prince Regent smoking in all lands. The closing of opium issued an edict in which was a "decree cash- divans, in all settlements and concessions iering a number of provincial officials in in China, was strongly urged. The commis- Kiangsi on denunciation by the Governor sion also strongly recommended the prohibi- for failure or neglect in curing themselves tion of all anti-opium remedies containing of their opium habits." opium, and drastic measures against mor- "There are two things to bear in mind. phine. The sincerity of China was also First, to stop opium, you must cut at the recognized, as well as the greatness of the root, the source of the poison. It is not task. enough to have regulations and urge men For fifty years the opium trade has been to give up the habit. The government must bringing thousands of pounds of the black stop the cultivation and the sale, then the curse to China. This poison has brought poor victims will have to stop the smoking. sorrow, poverty and death to millions of Second, we must do it vigorously, and at our people. Now our Government and peo- once. If it is not done in this first year of ple fully realize the danger and have made the republic it will be more difficult to do strict laws to overcome this great evil. For it later on. The Government Bureau has three years the battle against the planting made its plans as follows: The cultivation of opium has been going on and the world is to be totally prohibited. The poppy now can see that China is thoroughly in earnest growing must be destroyed. Retail sale because of what she has done. ;34 THE MID-PACIFIC
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National Pass, Blue Mountains. "The spectator, gazing from the vantage ground of some beetling crag, views wonderful panoramas of giant precipices and intervening tree-carpeted valleys at giddy depths * * *" The Blue Mountains of New South Wales
By CHAS. R. HOGUE.
While the great war has wrought many changes in Australia, the everyday life of the people is much the same, and the visitor from across the seas is still accorded a warm welcome.
HE tourist who contemplates visit- qualities of the air of their upland forests. ing Australia should not fail to in- Close to Sydney, there is a frequent and T clude the Blue Mountains in his speedy train service, with very low fares. itinerary. These ranges form the mighty First class accommodation is provided at the eastern wall upholding the central table- many places situated in the ranges, and con- lands of the New South Wales plateau sys- veyances may be readily hired in which the tem. They are famed far and wide for visitor may spend many pleasurable hours their scenes of rugged majesty, and for the inspecting the wonderful scenery which ha- peculiarly exhilirating and health-giving made the Blue Mountains so very popular.
185 186
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„weeP in t he B lue MouM ntains. T here are m ny h li l nook an wa e _ 14o ingRoc k" a -sitcohi dAeluesettraatieia. l itt e s d water,terf alls in tha is d lig 1ho liday ground R°c l htf". THE MID-PACIFIC 187
In summer-time (December to Febru- fall country begins at Wentworth, for here ary), when the moist warmth of the coastal the valleys are deeper and broader, and regions, or the drier heat of the central the precipices more abrupt. Perhaps the plains, make a change to a cooler climate most grand and awe-inspiring scenery is to the most welcome method of spending the be found in the valleys, in whose depths holiday seasons, the mountains afford an the tall trees massed together look from ideal resort for achieving this end. There above like a soft carpet of sombre verdure. is no over-violent contrast of temperature fading away towards the horizon in blue to be feared—none of the danger that might and tender mauve. The shadows of the be incurred by rushing from warm summer clouds creep in masses of indigo across weather into regions of snow and glacier, the great gulfs, and the sun lights up the but the air is delightfully cool and bracing. bright cliffs, which are streaked with red In winter ( June to August) the really and yellow from stains of iron. Littlf bitter days are few and far between, and niches in the walls are green with shrubs this season is becoming increasingly a favor- and ferns, and on the wide ledges are ite one with those who prefer to make their clumps of trees. From the hill-tops the sojourn in the heights before the regular cascades leap the awful abyss, and strike tourist season has opened. The scenery is on the rocks beneath in a veil of spray. strangely different from that made up of Wentworth Falls makes a descent of three bleak, snowy peaks and glacier torrents successive cascades of fully a thousand feet which one is so apt to associate with the to the basin at the head of a magnificent name of "mountain." gorge. In the Blue Mountains the most char- Among the choicest sights are the Weep- acteristic features are mighty abysses where ing Rock and the Valley. of the Waters, the hills have been rent asunder, and the where the vale resounds to the music of spectator, gazing from the vantage ground its tumbling rills. At Leura there are of some beetling crag, views wonderful the Jersey Falls, the Silver Lake, and the panoramas of giant precipice and interven- exceedingly beautiful Minnehaha (Laugh- ing tree-carpeted valleys at giddy depths, ing Water) Falls, which pour a succession with a delicate veil of blue mist softening of sparkling cascades into a pool of un- the outlines on the distant horizon; or the fathomable depths. At Katoomba the main many waterfalls, of marvelous beauty, that fall leaps 200 feet sheer into the Kanimbla plungs in silvery torrents of spray over Valley. At Medlow Bath, there is perhaps mighty cliffs, or rush in graceful cascades the finest hydropathic establishment in the through fairy bowers and nooks of mount- Southern Hemisphere, from which numer- ian fern. ous trips may be made to beauty spots From Glenbrook, the first of the mount- ain stations, up to Lawson there are many similar to those already mentioned, bur enchanting scenes; but the• great water- each having its own peculiar charm. 188 THE MID-PACIFIC
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There are canyons and ,valleys and waterfalls on Kauai, the "Garden Isle" of the Hawaiian group, that offer delightful outings to the visitor. The story of a trip to the best-known of Kauai's waterfalls is told in the following pages. On the Garden Island
By LUN CHANG.
HERE is always a certain ex- party, I began to grow fidgity ; at citement, a certain exhilaration, eight I could hardly contain myself, T in setting foot for the first time and at eleven o'clock, when the party on any island in the Paradise of the did arrive, I was well-nigh frantic. Pacific ; but when that island is Kauai— "You are certainly early," said I, try- the "Garden" of the group—it is with ing hard to look angry,. but the smiling a mist of happiness before our eyes faces before me made my attempt a that we step upon its shore. It is not miserable failure. only the climate, so soft, so sweet, so "How lucky you are, Lun," broke in 1:1,1my, that one at once falls in love my cousin. "I have brought you all with ; but also the ineffable enchant- `Misses'." ment of sea and sky—beautiful, grand, I looked up and counted six smiling, and sublime. But of all the scenic rosy faces and could not help laughing, splendors of this Hawaiian Paradise, at which the girls heartily responded. there is one which the visitor should I mounted, and with a "Go," we sped never miss, and that is the "Hanapepe up the hill. My horse was fresh and I Falls." I did not intend to miss it shot ahead of the rest. I soon reached either, so I bustled about and soon a the top of the hill and drew up to party was made up. We were to start wait for them. "Keep on, keep on," at seven in the morning and I had to shouted those in the rear, so once more make preparations. I gave Prince full rein, and away we When seven o'clock arrived and no flew. I soon ceased to hear any clat-
189 . THE MID- PACIFIC ' tering behind me, and when I reached reached the top of the ridge. Then we the railroad track, I waited. turned sharply to the left and went Before long they appeared, and we down, down, into the valley. soon reached the "Big Gate." Here we The path now led through a grove drew up and stood admiring the beauti- of sisal and prickly pears heavy with ful valley three hundred feet below. flowers and fruit. After a short gal- The land stretched a thousand feet from lop we emerged from it into a pasture. cliff to cliff, and it was all one waving Here scores of brown and vl hite and field of green. Through the midst of black cattle were seen ; some in the this wound the softly murmuring Hana- shade, some feeding on the grass, and pepe River. Its waters sparkled and some sunning themselves right in our danced in the bright sunshine, and the path. We shouted and waved our hats, little wavelets chased each other in and succeeded in clearing the trail. sport. They were bubbling over with There were some, however, that seemed joy and seemed to invite us to join to question our right, and remained them, but we preferred being on horse- stolidly in their positions. These we back. A glance at the opposite cliff had to avoid trampling upon by turn- revealed no barren rocks nor brown ing aside, but not without first impart- dirt ; it was clothed in dark green ing a "good wish" with the whip. from top to bottom. How charming I remember distinctly one black and it looked! "But is there any vegeta- white cow, who looked surlily at us tion on this side ?" I heard some on, as we galloped right before her. ask. Yes, this cliff is likewise covered The trail was fringed with guavas with green. It is indeed a valley in and we paused every little while to a "Garden Island !" gather the large ripe fruit. They were From the valley my eyes roamed in certainly very delicious ; indeed I think the opposite direction. There, far to the they are much sweeter than those east, a stretch of the mighty blue Pa- grown on the other islands. cific appeared. There were specks of That morning's ride was not to be white here and there, barely visible to forgotten. It was one -filled with sights the eye, but I • knew them to be Jap- innumerable. The precipice on the anese fishing boats. But what was right was honeycombed with caves, that large grey object into the horizon? both large and small, many of them, It was the steamship "China." How no doubt, famous in Hawaiian legends. slowly it seemed to travel ! And the The entrances to these caves were com- mountains in the distance? How im- pletely shrouded by the wild, jungled pressive they were in their calm beauty ! mass of ferns and shrubbery that grew We felt as if enchanted, and there around them. To the left was seen the we sat, drinking in the glories of Eden. rich, dark earth already tinted with But the approach of another horse- the tender-bladed rice, while in one or man stirred us into action and we re- two fields, there were still remnants luctantly filed through the "Big Gate." of last year's golden crop. We had not gone very far, when we It was half-past twelve, and we were saw a small buggy slowly lumbering anxious to reach the falls by one. Our up the narrow mountain trail. On it horses needed no urging, and as the was a sewing machine, destined, no reins were loose, they galloped on and doubt, for the use of some pioneer's on. We soon came to the first ford wife. We galloped past it and soon of the Hanapepe River. It was not THE MID -PACIFIC 191 very deep, for we were nearing its delicately-modeled landscape of the source. Our horses plunged into it skies ; domes and peaks rising and and scrambled up the other bank. Here swelling, white as finest marble, or we found ourselves in a wood abound- blue as sapphire, all beautifully out- ing in tall forest trees. The air was lined, giving a most impressive mani- filled with the fragrance of the maile festation of world building. What and the ginger, and in fact the forest palette but that of Nature could pro- glade was embroidered with nothing duce such harmonious tones ! but the red buds and the white and After refreshing ourselves with the yellow blossoms of the sweet gInger. cold, clear water, we selected a spot The trees, too, had a share in Ceres' for luncheon. It was right before the bounty. They were groaning under falls, in the bed of a shallow mountain the weight of the ruddy mountain ap- stream whose large boulders formed ples, but we were so eager to see excellent seats, while the tall trees at the falls. that we went on without tast- the right afforded all the shade needed. ing any. Our appetites were whetted by the Through such scenery we traveled morning's ride and the delicious sand- for miles, fording the Hanapepe - River wiches were doubly appreciated. seventeen different times. As we When all the edibles we brought neared the falls, we ran across many with us had disappeared, we made for a spillway several feet wide. Our the mountain apples that grew nearby. horses did not hesitate a moment but Having satisfied our appetites, we filled took them at a leap. Our hearts were our bags with the ruddy fruit and filled with rapture and we thought started homeward. The horses were nothing of danger at the time. fully refreshed and the added weight While we were still some distance of the apples was nothing to them. away, we could hear the roar of the On our way, we stopped long enough grand cataract as it took its leap of two to make maile leis. We had no time hundred and fifty feet. But that was to make ginger leis, for the afternoon not the only fall to be seen. On the was far advanced and the girls wished right and on the left, about half a to reach home by seven. It was about dozen could be counted. They were, five o'clock when we once more crossed however, much smaller, though little the first ford. The horses behaved less beautiful. nobly and we galloped up the steep We reached the falls at one, and hill, back to the "Big Gate." Here we leaving the horses to graze, went up met a friend in a buggy, and the fruit to drink the pure fresh water. Before which had been bruised by the furious we had tasted a drop, however, we gallop, was gently transferred to the stood there and gazed, and gazed. The vehicle. Then we raced back to Han- hundreds of gallons of water came pour- apepe. You may think this cruel, but ing down with a roar, and the cauldron those horses despised walking. Such beneath was constantly one rough, surg- are the ,horses we have on Kauai ! ing sea. Whenever a gust of wind Although we had started late in the arose, the white spray was scattered morning, and had not had time enough fully fifty feet away. The top of the to fully appreciate nature's beauty, on falls was feathered with trees, and its the whole every one was happy and sides were covered with ferns and tall satisfied. And so with a cheerful grasses. An added charm was the "Goodbye," the girls departed. 192 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID PACIFIC 193
The sun had disappeared below the the silvery moonbeams, and the little horizon, and as the party galloped wavelets lapped the rush-covered banks. homeward they were steeped in the Everything was quiet and peaceful. brilliancy of the gorgeous sunset. A Music proceeded from a neighbor's cot- bend of the road hid them from view, tage and country swains and damsels but the grandeur of the heavens riveted were gliding back and forth on the me to the spot. For, stretching fold sanded floor. The merry faces of on fold to the very bounds of the young couples and the speaking eyes earth, was a wavy richness of greens of bashful lovers all bespoke one word and reds and golds with purple shad- —light-heartedness. How carefree they ows, into which all melted at last, all were ! while a beautiful pink slowly softened Ten o'clock. The lights were still into white cirri flakes. It was a glori- gleaming on the walls, but in the whole ous scene ! It was the picture of sub- valley the white specks began to dis- limity ! appear one by one. Gradually the Silently and slowly the panorama revelry broke up and there was a paw- vanished, and specks of white began ing of hoofs, a blowing of horns and to appear in the village. The gentle the barking of one or two dogs awak- zephyrs arose and blew these specks ened from sleep. The machines slipped about, and soon the whole valley was silently down the road ; the clattering dotted with them. Then a gust of sounded fainter and fainter and finally wind followed, and the specks were died among the distant hills ; the dogs whirled higher and higher, and sudden- ceased to bark ; the lights in the cot- ly the whole atmosphere was covered tage were extinguished ; the moon dis- with myriads of them. The beautiful appeared behind a cloud ; and dark- and graceful Hawaiian moon appeared and smiled upon the scene. The waters ness reigned over this village of Para- in the slow-flowing river danced with dise.
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The story of the birth of a Pacific island is graphically told in the fol- lowing pages. "* * * Lava flow is poured out upon lava flow * * * until finally the warm surface of the Ocean is reached—an island appears upon the sea." Where the lava flows into the sea.
the Life History of an Island
By VAUGHAN MAcCAUGHEY.
HE floor of the Pacific Ocean is a This great plain is marked in places by vast undulating plain, covered with tremendous fissures, which extend deep into T the ooze of the ages. It is black the earth. Through one of these mighty from the utter absence of light. No ray chasms volcanic activities find a vent. The of sunshine ever penetrates the two miles submarine volcano spews forth molten lava of icy ocean that overlays this silent plain. onto the frigid ocean floor. It is cold with the frigidity of death. It The forces of the volcano and the ocean is the final, all-embracing graveyard. All grapple in a titanic struggle. The molten that has ever existed in sea, or air or land, rock-stuff rolls up out of the chasm; the finds its last resting place as salt slime on deep black waters boil and rage. Lava- the black floor of an icy sea. flow is poured out upon lava-flow, higher
195 196 THE MID-PACIFIC and higher. The central lava-filled chasm of the life of the sea. From time to time rises with the submarine mountain that it a ruthless lava-flow thunders down the is forming about itself. Through half a mountain side, and burns a black and mile of deep sea waters the inextinguish- smoking scar athwart the luxuriant forests. able fires heap the lava-flows—through a Soon, however, the flow cools, and patient- mile—two miles—three miles—until final- handed nature-mother scatters o'er it ly the warm surface of the ocean is reach- mosses, ferns, and at last the sweet wood- ed—an island appears upon the sea. lands again. The valleys are musical with The base of this huge volcanic dome waterfalls and tinkling streams. Vine and rests upon the plain of the sea; its summit tree hang heavy with luscious fruit. Deep- rises above the waves; its central axis is a scented tropic blossoms unfold their fan- gigantic tube of fiery molten lava. The tastic petals and glow in the velvet star- outpourings of lava continue. Naked in the light. The isle has become a Garden of bright tropical sunshine lies this new-born Eden. isle—child of the fire. Torrents of fire Wind and weather and wave gnaw con- pour out from the central crater. Rumb- tinually. The valleys are eaten back to ling avalanches of smoking lava roll down the central core. The dividing ridges shat- to the sea, where with a hissing as of a ter. The ocean creeps in stealthily upon million fiery demons, they plunge into its the beaches. It invades the marshes and boiling depths. Seasons—centuries—aeons the low-lands. The central peak is worn —wing their eternal course across the wide- away. The clouds no longer tarry here. rimmed sea. Rain ceases. The jungle dries. The varied By these continual accretions from the life of the woodlands vanishes. Beautiful, central crater, the volcanic island rises fragrant forest shrivels and disappears. slowly above the sea. Clouds begin to Naked again lies the lonely isle. gather round its summit. Rain and stream Slowly the coral reefs build a rim around carve deep canyons and broad valleys. The the sinking island. The great Pacific comb- encircling sea pounds the rough shores into ers pound the outer reef to sand. The smooth shoals and beaches. Here and white sand, like a shroud, washes in over there, in the warm shallows, the coral the dead isle. Strange fishes swim where polyps begin their tireless architecture. once bright-winged songsters sported in Fringed coral reefs—wonderlands of ma- rine life and color—protect and beautify fern-lined dell. its shores. In the center of the encircling reef is a worn and barren rock, last remnant of the Seeds and spores from distant lands, are once mighty volcanic dome. The sea-birds' brought by the slow-circling ocean currents, hoarse cry resounds from its arid cliffs. by the eternal winds, and by bands of mi- The white-foamed breakers thunder their gratory birds that find this isle a momentary surf-chant upon the tide-swept reef. resting place. The great mother-spirit of Nature, who in agony gave birth to this The coral reef is but a speck, a shoal, blackened, seared, and fire-hearted island, in the vast stretches of the Pacific. The now with kind ministry drapes its raw conflict is finished. The battle of the ages slopes and ragged precipices with radiant is won. The gods of the Ocean have van- shimmering verdure. quished the gods of the Fire. "That which The tropical woodland jungle is enliven- came from out the mighty deep, turns again ed by countless curious insects. The frag- home." The huge, roaring lake of molten rant glades resound with the sweet music lava, with its jetting fire-fountains, is suc of bright-plumaged birds. The shores teem ceeded by the silent infinitesimal labor of a with water-fowl. The tidal pools and myriad coral polyps. The Garden of Eden shallows abound with the infinite variety sinks to its eternal grave. ADVERTISING SECTION
■■■■■■■••■ The Honolulu Daily Press
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Newest home of the oldest newspaper of the Pacific. Offices and print shop of the Pacific Commercial Advertiser, founded 1856, at 217 South King Street, Honolulu, 'I'. H.--The morning newspaper.
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12 PAW:F.11.01X LAL 11,111112.01-, OF II:IV/All, :II, 1.113. - L2 PAO. 1.111. FIVE - — ------ - WILSON FORCING HUERTA TO MOVE- NEW HOTEL George R. Carter DOmETHOROPEHMAINusTI Centrre.al Figures In The LIND, IN MEXICO CITY, PLANNED IN al:l Inn:1r P t Mexican Crisis IS OPTIMISTIC NOW FOR HONOLULU HIS POSITION' — PEACE BETWEEN COUNTRIES Foundeflow,opoilite States Full Reply FromDUor= Awaited iar .'"-t G. N, R'• G aivp,Z 'Erri2AncETC"St Washiuutea Before Further Develop- '"Allb::1::"rE = Rte. ;Lilo:0Bitk Ceoanadmee A H. HERTSCHE D GO EXECUTIVE'd e TooTO MAINLAND "eEWI" ETAILS NEW MAT MAKE i rN" tormst Lots May Conrad wIniCt;i:boz to Houses "nletier Has Plan Care_"mi. To. la''''''pt.?iew„ H.
Diggs Case Goes to Jury; Wrong, Not Crime, Admitted
'Congressman Harrison Named Philippine Governor-General
14.04•101_.— the largest circulation
2 THE MID-PACIFIC
1;. Honolulu from the Trolley Car
Surfriding as Seen From the Cars of the Rapid Transit Company. You may take the electric tram as you beautiful mountain valleys behind Hono- step off of the steamer in Honolulu, and lulu, or you may transfer to Kaimuki for five cents ride for hours—if you wish on the heights behind Diamond Head, to take transfers—to almost every part which is now a great fortress; in fact, of this wondrously beautiful city and its the entire day may be spent with profit suburbs. on the car lines. At Waikiki often may There appeared in the Mid-Pacific be seen from the cars men and boys dis- Magazine for January, 1915, an article porting themselves on their surfboards, telling of a hundred sights to be seen as they come in standing before the from the street cars. waves on these little bits of wood. At one end of the King street car line The cars in Honolulu are all open, for is Fort Shafter, on a commanding hill, the temperature never goes below 68 from which may be seen the cane lands and degrees, nor does it rise above 85 de- rice fields, stretching to Pearl Harbor in grees, and there is always a gentle trade the distance. Before reaching Fort Shafter wind stirring. is the Bishop Museum, having the most re- When Honolulu was ready for her markable Polynesian collection in the world. electric tram system, the Honolulu Rapid At the other end of the line is Kapiolani Transit & Land Co. completed the most perfect system of its kind in the world, Park, a beautiful tropical garden, in which and it is always a delight to ride smooth- is located the famous aquarium of Hawai- ly over its lines. ian fishes, rivaled only by the aquarium in It is but twenty minutes by car to Naples. Waikiki beach and but five minutes Transfers are given to branch lines longer, by the same car, to the wonderful penetrating several of the wonderfully aquarium in Kapiolani Park. THE MID-PACIFIC 3
01.06J NOPPAL L SC kit, or OilLEs lq d ZS Mites' ft¢hesi r1.Kcala.q,030 Ft LP AND CODYkIGHTED I Pop tthon over 60,000 Pe to 1 it13 T. POPt, D000 from Cal.lorro 2.10Q S B14kolet from Japlin 3,700 Mite bOtilOOf fOOTALIstroOKYOigMtki COVOra,frit Road around tslAntj f■rst-rt,Iss f(adroqd S stem t9e 190 t
The Island of Oahu, more than half the size of Rhode Island, may be motored around in a day with stops at Coral Gardens, Waiahole Tavern, Hauula Hotel, Haleiwa and the Wahiawa Hotel. There are no more delightful outings resort is on high land near the sea, and in the world than those from Honolulu to but forty minutes' walk from Waiahole the "Round Oahu" resorts. Automobiles Tunnel and the trail over the mountains. and auto-busses make daily trips to and There is a swimming pool on the grounds from the delightful hotels on the seashore of the Waiahole Tavern, phone 0.554. and in the mountains. On Sundays the big busses of the Island Thirty-one miles from Honolulu, nes-. Sightseeing Company leave from the Pan- tied at the foot of the mountains, but on Pacific corner, Fort and Merchant Streets, the sea, is Hauula Hotel, rates $3.00 a for round-the-island trips and runs to the day; chicken dinner at midday, $1.25. hotel resorts of Oahu. These busses may Less than three miles away are the Sacred also be engaged at very reasonable rates for Falls of Kaliuwaa Canyon. The hotel is parties of from 20 to 30 passengers. The also on the line of the railway ; the usual Trail and Mountain Club, phone is 2989, stopping place at lunch time of the round- Gr a call at the Pan-Pacific Club rooms, cor- the-island parties. Phone White 0782. ner Fort and Merchant streets, phone con- Thirty miles from Honolulu by auto, nection with all the round-the-island hotels. fifty-six miles by rail, is the Haleiwa Hotel, Going around the island, over the Pali, $3.50 a day, lunch $1.00. Phone Blue 0932. just twelve miles or an hour from Hono- lulu is Kaneohe Bay and Coral Gardens In the center of the pineapple district, Hotel, $3.00 a day, phone Blue 612. Noon between two mountain ranges and 1000 dinner, $1.00. Trip in glass-bottom boat feet above the sea is the Wahiawa Hotel, to the wonderful Coral Gardens, 50 cents. twenty miles from Honolulu, an hour's Rates at the Coral Garden per week, run over good roads. Good swimming and $17.50 with splendid fishing and swim- wonderful bass fishing, with ideal possible ming as well as good living. tramps in the mountains. Rates $2.50 a Six miles further is Waiahole Tavern, day, $15.00 a week, lunches 50 cents. $3.00 a day; lunches, 75 cents. This ideal Phone Blue 0393. 4 THE MID-PACIFIC
Among the Hawaiian Islands
Map by courtesy of the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company.
HAWAIIAN ISLAND S Scale / kch = Pogloo E•st CowArA1/6.- fie Hoirsvi. /7-onrofdr CwwwwMiss By E /Se.. OAHU Scok /.0. /Kies Arrew IVO Atemekie MOLOK Al
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The Island of Hawaii is about the size of the State of Connecticut; the area of all the islands is about two-thirds that of Belgium. STEAMSHIP SERVICE. THE KAUAI CANYONS From Honolulu, on the Island of Oahu, At 5:15 P. M. every Tuesday there is to and from the Island of Maui, there is a large boat (S. S. "Kinau") leaving almost daily service, either by way of Honolulu for Kauai ports, a night's ride, Kahului on the lee side of Maui, or on the and on the return leaving Waimea, Kauai, windward side, at Lahaina, there being at 10 A. M. Saturdays, affording oppor- splendid auto services between the two. tunity for a visit to the famous canyons Twice a week there are sailings from of Kauai and the Barking Sands. Fare Honolulu for the Big Island of Hawaii. each way $6. The "W. G. Hall," a Communication between the islands of smaller steamer, leaves Honolulu every Hawaii is maintained by the splendid and Thursday at 5 P. M. Returning leaves frequent steamers of the Inter-Island Nawiliwili, Kauai, every Tuesday at Steam Navigation Co. Ltd. 5 P. M. THE HALEAKALA TRIP. THE VOLCANO OF KILAUEA. The flagship of the Inter-Island fleet Mondays and Fridays there is a boat leaves Honolulu every Wednesday and leaving Honolulu for Kahului, Maui, at Saturday for Hilo on the Island of Hawaii, 5 :00 in the afternoon—fare $6 each way, from whence a visit to Kilauea is made, a pleasant night's ride, and from Kahului and from whence a tour of the largest of on Wednesday arid Saturday afternoons the Hawaiian Islands may be begun. Fare the same steamer (S. S. "Claudine") sails to Hilo, each way, $12.50; by rail and for Honolulu . This is the most conven- auto to volcano, about $5.00 return; rates ient boat for trips to Haleakala and the at Volcano House, about $6 a day. famous Koolau Ditch Trail. The Mon- The main offices of the Inter-Island day boat from Honolulu touches at many Steam Navigation Co., Ltd., are on Queen Maui ports. Street, Honolulu; phone No. 4941. THE MID-PACIFIC 5 The Island of Maui
Map by courtesy of Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd.
HONOLULU NAtIM Lup,
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The firm of Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., The Home Insurance Co. of New York, (known by everyone as "A. & B.") is The New Zealand Insurance Co., looked upon as one of the most progressive General A. F. & L. Assurance Corpor- American corporations in Hawaii. ation, Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., are agents German Alliance Insurance Association, for the largest sugar plantation of the Ha- Switzerland Marine Insurance Co., Ltd. waiian Islands and second largest in the The offices of this large and progressive world, namely, the Hawaiian Commercial firm, all of whom are staunch supporters of and Sugar Company at Puunene, Maui. the Pan-Pacific and other movements which They are also agents for many other plan- are for the good of Hawaii, are as follows: tations and concerns of the Islands, among J. P. Cooke President which are the Haiku Sugar Company, Paia W. M. Alexander First Vice-Pres. Plantation, Maui Agricultural Company, J. R. Galt Hawaiian Sugar Company, McBryde Sugar Second Vice-Pres. Company, Ltd., Kahului Railroad Com- W. 0. Smith Third Vice-Pres. pany, Kauai Railroad Company, Ltd., John Waterhouse Treasurer Honolua Ranch. John Guild Secretary This firm ships a larger proportion of the With H. A. Baldwin, F. C. Atherton, A. total sugar crop of the Hawaiian Islands L. Castle and C. R. Hemenway as addi- than any other agency. tional directors. In addition to their extensive sugar plan- Besides the home office in the Stangen- tations, they are also agents for the follow- wald Building, Honolulu, Alexander & ing well-known and strong insurance com- Baldwin, Ltd., maintain extensive offices in panies: Seattle, in the Melhorn Building; in New Springfield Fire & Marine Ins. Co., York at 82 Wall St., and in the Alaska American Central Insurance Co., Commercial Building, San Francisco, 6 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Home Building in Honolulu of H. Hackfeld & Co., Ltd., Plantation Agents, Wholesale Merchants and Agents for the American-Hawaiian, and all the principal Atlantic S. S. Lines. THE MID-PACIFIC 7
Map by courtesy of the Pacific Guano & Fertilizer Co.
iAWAI 4:.c214:51,f,. 15,V,1;' 1.tion ov,r 4,7,000. 1:7,,Pc11%.4 trot,H 7GHv ioUp, P■ 1.4 le/ Cmck ovv Pi/vs, a■ Y' 4tar :14.. PI ..Ya n,„ r 0,6 , t,37 725 T..-
The Island of Hawaii is about twice the size of Delaware.
The soil of Hawaii is of a character that fertilizer. It gets sulphate of ammonia requires fertilization to a great extent. from England, nitrates from Chile, and When one speaks of the fertilizer business potash salts from Germany, while tons of of Hawaii, he speaks of the Pacific Guano sulphur are brought direct from Japan to and Fertilizer Co. The majority of the the works. It costs, ordinarily, fifty dollars sugar and pineapple plantations are sup- an acre to fertilize pineapple lands, unless it plied by this company. A very large con- is the fertilizer from the Pacific Guano and cern today, the Pacific Fertilizer and Guano Fertilizer Co. that is used, when the ex- Co. is the outgrowth of a small industry pense is cut in half. If you need fertilizer which followed the discovery of rich guano for your garden or your plantation, call up deposits on Laysan Island. These deposits Phone No. 1585, and the Pacific Fertilizer have been so depleted that the company now and Guano Co. will gladly advise you, mak- secures its supply from other Pacific islands, ing a chemical analysis of the soil, if neces- and at the same time it is a large importer sary, and mixing the fertilizer in accord of other articles used in the manufacture of with the demands of the soil. 8 THE MID-PACIFIC
.1111.1•••••••■■•••■•■•■•■•■■■••■■••••■ The Island of Kauai
TO SAN FRANCISCO AND JAPAN. The Matson Steam Navigation Co., maintaining the premier ferry service be- tween Honolulu and San Francisco, and the Toyo Kishen Kaisha, maintaining pa- latial ocean greyhound service between San Francisco and the Far East via Honolulu, have their Hawaiian agencies with Castle & Cooke, Ltd. This, one of the oldest firms in Hono- lulu, occupies a spacious building at the corner of Fort and Merchant streets, Hono- lulu. The ground floor is used as local passenger and freight offices of the Toyo Kisen Kaisha and of the Matson Steam Navigation Company. The adjoining of- fices are used by the firm for their busi- ness as sugar factors and insurance agents. Phone 1251. '')/ //CKLAND Castle & Cooke, Ltd., act as agents for Ocalion many of the plantations throughout Ha- „ of , elk waii, and here may be secured much varied 4.,Clawad.an tl" Islands information. Here also the tourist may se- cure in the folder racks, booklets and pam- phlets descriptive of almost every part of the great ocean. Maps by courtesy of Castle & Cooke, Ltd.
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HONVALUNQ. ,A NOOK StitOOL or N;Lts
IAUAl MillOS 547 ye :Mika Aiross ,tion, SRSO feet *not uht f1400 war" i00 Sq{tr,Pi n THE MID-PACIFIC 9
THE LIGH'IING OF HONOLULU. In Honolulu the outlying districts are rapidly becoming connected with the gas system of mains. The modern gas mantles now make lighting by gas the most bril- liant and satisfying of all methods; and this at a minimum cost. In fact, so cheap is gas in Honolulu that it is used very ex- tensively for cooking. The cost averages a dollar for a thousand feet. The Honolulu Gas Company maintains extensive exhibition rooms at the corner of Alakea and Beretania streets, where the cars of two sections pass the doors, and where every new appliance in gas fixtures for lighting or cooking purposes may be studied, or members of the office force will explain their advantages. The latest gas appliance invention does the family washing automatically and should be seen at the Alakea Street exhibition rooms. 10 THE MID-PACIFIC
THE BUILDERS OF HONOLULU. Honolulu still relies for building ma- terial on the mainland. For many years the firm of Lewers & Cooke maintained its own line of clipper schooners that brought down lumber from Puget Sound with which to "build Hawaii." Today this firm occupies its own spacious block on King Street, where every necessity need- ed for building the home is supplied. In fact, often it is this firm that guarantees the contractor, and also assures the owner that his house will be well built and com- pleted on time. Things are done on a large scale in Hawaii; so it is that one firm undertakes to supply material from the breaking of ground until the last coat of paint is put on the completed building. A spacious and splendidly equipped hardware
RUBEROVO RCKAIK department is one of the features of Lewers & Cooke's establishment. THE MOD-PACIFIC 11
Electric Lighting in Honolulu
The general offices on King Street.
THE HAWAIIAN ELECTRIC CO. dred horse power, with another two hun- dred and fifty horse power to the Federal In Honolulu electricity costs ten cents Wireless Station fifteen miles distant, be- per kilowatt, for the first two kilowatts sides current for lighting all private resi- per month per lamp, and six cents dences in Honolulu, as well as for operat- thereafter. From the Hawaiian Electric ing its own extensive ice plant. A line is Company plant, power is furnished to the now being built to furnish linght and power pineapple canneries (the largest canneries to the great army post at Schofield Bar- in the world) to the extent of seven hun- racks, twenty miles distant from Honolulu.
The power house and ice plant. 12 THE MID-PACIFIC
THE TRUST CO. IN HAWAII. Honolulu was one of the first cities to adopt the idea of the Trust Company. In 1852 Henry Waterhouse began business in Honolulu, and just fifty years later the name of his firm was changed to the "Henry Waterhouse Trust Company" and this very successful concern continues to occupy the ground floor of the Campbell Block on Fort and Merchant streets. Here was born the first commercial wireless system in the world—that of Hawaii. There are spacious vaults for valuable papers, insur- ance departments, real estate features, and every department common to the up-to-date Trust Company. The Company is also a member of the Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange. Located in the heart of the business cen- ter of Honolulu, here stock and bonds are exchanged, insurance is issued and every kind of real estate handled, and here, too, is the home of the Kaimuki Land Co., and the agency for the Volcano House at the Crater of Kilauea. THE MID-PACIFIC l 3
The Catton, Neill Building, Honolulu. Also the home of the General Electric Co. in Hawaii. Honolulu is known around the world Half a century is an age in the life of for the manufacture of sugar mill ma• Honolulu. The first frame building is not chinery. Much of this is made by Catton, one hundred years old, and the first hard- Neill & Co., Ltd., Engineers, who build ware store, that of E. 0. Hall & Son, Ltd., and erect sugar mill machinery. The was not founded until the year 1850, but works are on South Street, Honolulu, while since then, on the commanding corner of the offices and salesrooms are located in a Fort and King streets, it has remained the new concrete building on Alakea and Queen premier hardware concern in Hawaii. The streets, erected recently for this purpose. entire three-story building is taken up Here are seen the displays of the General with extensive displays of every kind of Electric Co., of which Catton, Neill & hardware. One floor, however, is given Co., Ltd., are Hawaiian agents, as well as over to crockery and kitchen utensils, while for the leading gas engines, water wheels, in the basement even a ship might be fitted steam plows, pumps, condensers and tools out with its hardware, cordage, and roping manufactured in the United States. This needs. This company is also agent for the is one of the oldest engineering firms in Sherwin-Williams house paints and repre- Hawaii. sents many mainland hardware firms.
E. 0. Hall & Son Building, Fort and King streets. 14 THE MID-PACIFIC
Occupying one of the most prominent the residents of the islands and of tourists. corners in the shopping district of Honolulu Connected with the store is an up-to-date the Regal Shoe Store, at the corner of Fort repair shop, where with the most modern and Hotel streets, is a distinct credit to the machinery operated by skilled workmen, re- American progress in these islands. Mr. pairs are made in the shortest time con- George A. Brown, the manager of the Regal sistent with good work. Visitors are in- Shoe Store, is a thorough shoeman and the vited to inspect the stock of famous shoes stock in his store has been carefully selected always carried in latest styles at the Regal with a view of meeting the requirements of Shoe Store.
The great women's dry goods department store of B. F. Ehlers & Company, occupies half of the main block on Fort Street, It is the largest and most complete estab- lishment of its kind in Honolulu, and here every kind of dry goods may be found. THE MID-PACIFIC 15
HOME FERTILIZING. For the small planter this company makes The Hawaiian Fertilizer Company stores special fertilizers, and the gardens of Hono- its fertilizers in the largest concrete ware- lulu are kept beautiful by the use of a house west of the Rockies. The works of special lawn fertilizer made by this com- this company cover several acres near Hono- pany. Fertilizing alone has made Hawaii lulu. The ingredients are purchased in the garden of the Pacific. shipload lots, and the formulas adopted by H. F. Wichman & Company's jewelry the different plantations for their fertilizers establishment on Fort Street, is one of are made up at the works of the Hawaiian Honolulu's show places. The gold and sil- Fertilizer Company. Their chemists ana- verware display is well worth a morning's lyze the soils and suggest the formulas. study.
Hawaii's leading jewelry establishment 16 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Y. M. C. A. building in Honolulu alleys, gymnasium halls, indoor racing has become the model for all semi-tropical tracks, games halls, and all the attractions Y. M. C. A. buildings. It was designed by that athletic men enjoy. Ripley & Davis and erected by the Pacific In the evenings the many class rooms are Engineering Company. used by students of several nationalities. In this building is an up-to-date cafeteria, The Pacific Engineering Company that unexcelled in the city, and open to visiting erected the Honolulu Y. M. C. A. building Y. M. C. A. members. There is also a great also erected steel bridges for the Kahului cement swimming pool in the open court Railway on the Island of Maui, and those filled from its own artesian well. of the Hilo Railway on the Island of There are dormitories for men, bowling Hawaii.
A MODERN TRUST COMPANY. ment and to the unbounded confidence re- posed in them by the people whom they The Trent Trust Co., Ltd., organized serve. The Trust Company acts as Ex- in 1907 with a paid-in capital of $50,000, now has $158,000 in cash capital and earn- ecutor and Manager of Estates, Fiduciary ed surplus, and gross assets of $505,000. Agent, and as Attorney and Agent of non- The Mutual Building & Loan Society, or- residents and others needing such service. ganized and managed by the same people, Its offices are centers of activity in real has assets in excess of $259,000. The estate, rent, insurance and investment cir- splendid growth of these concerns has been cles. The Company is a member of the due to careful and conservative manage- Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange. THE MID-PACIFIC 17 Banking in Honolulu
The First National Bank of Hawaii at the corner of Fort and King Streets, Hono- lulu. This bank is the de- pository in Hawaii of the U. S. Government.
chant & Kaahumanu Streets, since 1877. The operations of this Bank began with the encouragement of the whaling business, then the leading industry of the islands, and the institution has ever been closely identi- fied with the industrial and commercial progress of the Islands. The partners in the firm consist of Mr. S. M.Damon, Mr. Allen W. T. Bottomley and J. L. Cock- burn. On June 30, 1915 the deposits with this bank amounted to $9,518,593.45. The Bank of Honolulu, Ltd., located on Fort Street, is an old established financial institution. It draws on the principal parts of the world, issues cable transfers, and transacts a general banking business. The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., is the most recently incorporated Trust Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders The entrance to the Bank of Hawaii, are closely identified with the largest the central bank, of Honolulu, wit4i a business interests in the Territory. Its capital, surplus and undivided profits directors and officers are men of ability, amounting to nearly a million and a half, integrity and high standing in the com- or more than the total of any other bank munity. The Company was incorporated in the Hawaiian Islands. It has its own in June of 1911 with a capital of $100,000 magnificent building at the busiest busi- fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated doubling this capital. On June 30th, 1913, ness corner of Honolulu, Merchant and the Capital of the Company was $200,- Fort streets; has a savings department and 000 ; Surplus $10,000, and Undivided was organized in 1897. Profits $22,573.77. It conducts a trust The Banking House of Bishop & Co. was company business in all its various lines established August 17, 1858, and has oc- with offices in the Stangenwald Building, cupied its premises on the corner of Mer- Merchant St., adjoining Bank of Hawaii. 18 THE MID-PACIFIC
The Tourist's Hawaii
The Alexander Young Hotel (under same management as Moana, Hawaiian and Sea- side Hotels). The von-Hamm-Young Co., Importers recently extended its rails thirty-two miles Machinery Merchants and leading auto- along the precipitous coasts of Lapauhoehoe mobile dealers, have their offices and store and beyond. This thirty-two mile rail trip in the Alexander Young Building, at the is one of the scenic trips of the world. The corner of King and Bishop Streets, and Hilo Railway also extends in the opposite their magnificent automobile salesroom and direction to the hot springs of Puna, and a garage just in the rear, facing on Alakea branch with the Auto Service takes the street. Here one may find almost any- tourist from the steamer wharf to the edge thing. Phone No. 4901. of the ever active Kilauea. Hawaii is the Big Island. Hilo is the THE BLAISDELL. The newest down town chief port, and from Hilo excursions are hotel, occupying a block on Fort Street. made to all the points of interest. The Splendid rooms from $1.00 a day and $20 Hilo Board of Trade has recently taken up a month up. Phone 1267. the matter of home promotion work and is CRATER HOTEL, Volcano Hawaii, A. T. developing the wonderful scenic surround- Short, Proprietor. See Wells Fargo Ex- ings of Hilo. In this line of work the Hilo press Co., Paradise Tours, Inter-Island Board of Trade has the hearty co-operation and S• S. Co., Honolulu for special in- of the Hilo Railway. This Railway has clusive excursion rates.
Honolulu's big department store, W. W. Dimond & Co., on King St. Phone 4937. THE MID-PACIFIC
THE AU1 01MA:ill& IN HAWAII The phenomenal growth of the automo- bile industry throughout the United States is reflected in the rapid strides made by the Schuman Carriage Company in the past four years. From a comparatively small beginning the Schuman Carriage Company has grown to be the largest dealers in au- tomobiles and carriages, and all the acces- sories pertaining thereto in the Territory of Hawaii. The Schuman Carriage Company has enlarged its floor space many times, and at the present time has erected a new con- crete building which proves a substantial addition to the automobile industry in Ha- waii. It will be pictured in our next issue. The Schuman Company handle a line of cars which allows the purchaser ample scope for a choice. With the Pierce-Arrow as a high priced leader, the Franklin, Hud- son, Oldsmobile, Studebarker, Chalmers, Overland and Ford can be found on the salesroom floor. The manufacture of farm wagons, paint- ing of automobiles, automobile tops and seat covers, occupy quite a large amount of floor space in the Schuman establishment, and is in the hands of the most competent men in that line of work to be found in the Territory. 20 THE MID-PACIFIC
Round About Honolulu
Chambers Drug Store, Fort and King Street, stands at the head for flavor and Streets, is the actual center of life and keeping quality, and is guaranteed. It is activity in Honolulu. Here at the inter- here you also get the tender meats and section of the tram lines, the shoppers, fresh vegetables of which an abundant business men, and tourists await their cars, supply is always on hand. Heilbron & chatting at the open soda fountain, that is Louis, proprietors, have built up a won- the feature of Chambers Drug Store. Here derful business until now the Metropolitan the tourist and stranger is advised as to Meat Market is the central and popular the sights of the city, and supplied with market place of Honolulu. Phone 3445. any perfumes, candies or drugs he may Honolulu is so healthy that people don't need during his stay. Chambers Drug usually die there, but when they do they institutions of Hono- Store is one of the phone in advance to Henry H. Williams, lulu. Phone No. 1291. 1146 Fort street, phone number 1408, The largest of the very fashionable and he arranges the after details. If you shops in the Alexander Young Building, are a tourist and wish to be interred in occupying the very central portion, is that your own plot on the mainland, Williams of the . Hawaiian News Co. Here the will embalm you ; or he will arrange all ultra-fashionable stationery of the latest details for interment in Honolulu. Don't design is kept in stock. Every kind of leave the Paradise of the Pacific for any paper, wholesale or retail, is supplied, as other, but if you must, let your friends well as printers' and binders' supplies. talk it over with Williams. There are musical instruments of every Whatever you do, do not fail to visit kind in stock, even to organs and pianos, the wonderful Oahu Fish Market on King and the Angelus Player Piano and this Street. Early morning is the best time for concern is constantly adding new features this, when all the multi-colored fish of and new stock. The business man will Hawaiian waters are presented to view find his every need in the office supplied and every nationality of the islands is on by the Hawaiian News Co. merely on a parade inspecting. Mr. Y. Anin is the call over the phone, and this is true also leading spirit and founder of the Oahu of the fashionable society leader, whether Fish Market, which is a Chinese institu- her needs are for a bridge party, a dance, tion of which the city is proud. or just plain stationery. The exhibit rooms of the Hawaiian News Co. are interesting. A monument to the pluck and energy of Mr. C. K. Ai and his associates is the Love's Bakery at 1134 Nuuanu Street, City Mill Co. of which he is treasurer Phone 1431, is the bakery of Honolulu. and manager. This plant at Queen and Its auto wagons deliver each morning fresh Kekaulike Streets is one of Honolulu's from the oven, the delicious baker's bread leading enterprises, doing a flourishing and rolls consumed in Honolulu, while all lumber and mill business. the grocery stores carry the Love Bakery THE SWEET SHOP, on Hotel Street, op- crisp fresh crackers and biscuits that come posite the Alexander Young, is the from the oven daily. Love's Bakery has one reasonably priced tourist restaurant. the most complete and up to date machin- Here there is a quartette of Hawaiian ery and equipment in the territory. singers and players, and here at every "Maile" Australian butter from the hour may be enjoyed at very reasonable Metropolitan Meat Market on King prices the delicacies of the season. THE MID-PACIFiv, 21
The Honolulu Construction and Draying Company has its main offices at 65 Queen Street. This concern has recently absorbed two of the leading express and transfer companies, and has also acquired the Honolulu Lava Brick Company. It is making a success of its enterprises. Phone 4981.
Next to the Marconi Wireless on Fort phone service throughout Hawaii. For a Street is the Office Supply Co., the home dollar and a half, a Night Letter of twenty- of the Remington Typewriter in Hawaii, five words may be sent to any part of the and the Globe-Wernicke filing and book territory. Honolulu was the first city in cases. Every kind of office furniture is the world to install a house-to-house tele- kept in stock by the Office Supply Co. as phone system, and Hawaii the first country well as a complete line of office stationery. to commercially install wireless telegraphy. There is a repair shop for typewriters, and The City's great furniture store, that or every necessary article that the man of J. Hopp & Co., occupies a large portion of business might need. Phone 3843. the Lewers & Cooke Block on King St. With the wood that is used for building Here the latest styles in home and office in Hawaii, Allen & Robinson on Queen furniture arriving constantly from San Street, Phone 2105, have for generations Francisco are displayed on several spacious supplied the people of Honolulu and those floors. Phone No. 2111. on the other islands; also their buildings The leading music store in Hawaii is and paints. Their office is on Queen St., on King and Fort Sts.—The Bergstrom near the Inter-Island S. N. Co. Building, Music Co. No home is complete in Hono- and their lumber yards extend right back lulu without a ukulele, a piano and a Victor to the harbor front, where every kind of talking machine. The Bergstrom Music hard and soft wood grown on the coast is Company, with its big store on Fort Street, landed by the schooners that ply from will provide you with these—a Chickering, Puget Sound. a Weber, a Kroeger for your mansion, or a Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd., on Queen tiny upright Boudoir for your cottage; and Street, Phone 2295, prepare the crushed if you are a transient it will rent you a rock used in the construction of the mod- piano. The Bergstrom Music Company, ern building in Hawaii. They also main- phone 2331. tain their own stables and drays. Draying The best thing on ice in Honolulu is soda in Honolulu is an important business, and water. The Consolidated Soda Water Hustace-Peck are the pioneers in this line, Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort Street, are the and keep drays of every size, sort and de- largest manufacturers of delightful soda scription for the use of those who require beverages in the Territory. Aerated waters them. They also conduct a rock crusher cost from 35 cents a dozen bottles up. The and supply wood and coal. Consolidated Co. are agents for Hires Root The Mutual Telephone Co. works in Beer and put up a Kola Mint aerated water close accord with the Marconi Wireless, that is delicious, besides a score of other and controls the wireless service between flavors. Phone 2171 for a case, or try a the Hawaiian Islands, as well as the tele- bottle at any store. 22 THE MID-PACIFIC Wonderful New Zealand
Native New Zealanders at Rotorua.
Scenically New Zealand is the world's of the tourist, for whom she has also wonderland. There is no other place in built splendid roads and wonderful the world that offers stch an aggrega- mountain tracks. New Zealand is tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The splendidly served by the Government West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are Railways, which sell the tourist for a in every way more magnificent and awe- very low rate a ticket that entitles him inspiring than are the fiords of Norway. to travel on any of the railways for from Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic one to two months. In the lifetime of panorama of unrivalled beauty from end a single man, (Sir James Mills of Dune- to end. Its hot springs and geysers in din, New Zealand,) a New Zealand the Rotorua district on the North Island steamship company has been built up have no equal anywhere. In this dis- that is today the fourth largest steam- trict the native Maoris still keep up ship company under the British flag, and their ancient dances or haka haka, and larger than any steamship company here may be seen the wonderfully carved owned in America with her 100,000,000 houses of the aboriginal New Zealand- million population, or in Japan with her ers. There are no more beautiful lakes 50,000,000 population. New Zealand is anywhere in the world than are the Cold a land of wonders, and may be reached Lakes of the South Island, nestling as from America by the Union Steamship they do among mountains that rise sheer Co. boats from Vancouver, San Fran- ten thousand feet. Among these moun- tains are some of the largest and most cisco or Honolulu. The Oceanic Steam- scenic glaciers in the world. In these ship Co. also transfers passengers from Southern Alps is Mt. Cook, more than Sydney. The Government Tourist twelve thousand feet high. On its Bureau has commodious offices in Auck- slopes the Government has built a hotel land and Wellington as well as the other to which there is a motor car service. larger cities of New Zealand. Direct in- New Zealand was the first country to formation and pamphlets may be secured perfect the government tourist bureau. by writing to the New Zealand Govern- She has built hotels and rest houses ment Tourist Bureau, Wellington, New throughout the Dominion for the benefit Zealand. THE MID-PACIFIC 23
New South Wales
Circular Quay, Sydney.
Physical configuration and a wide The wonderful system of limestone range of climates give the State of New caverns at Jenolan is a marvelous fairy- South Wales its wonderful diversity of land of stalactitic and stalagmitic forma- scenery, its abundance of magnificent tions, which must forever remain the resorts by ocean, harbor, mountain, val- despair of the painter, the photographer ley, plain, lake, river and cave. It is this and the writer. The world has no more bewildering array of scenic attractions, marvelous or beautiful system of caves and the peculiar strangeness of the forms than these at Jenolan, which tourists of its animal and vegetable life, which from everywhere have marked as their make New South Wales one of the most own. The famous Jenolan series is sup- interesting countries in the world. and plemented and rivalled by the extensive one which an up-to-date. well-traveled systems at Wombeyan and Yarrangobil- tourist must see. ly, a little further away from Sydney. The climate of the State ranges from In the south, among the Australian the arctic snows of Mt. Kosciusko to the Alps, lies the unique Kosciusko Range. sub-tropical glow of the Northern Riv- which contains the highest peak in the ers, and withal is one of the most equable Continent, and is said to be the oldest ,n the world. Its eastern shore is washed land surface on the globe. The Hotel by the crested rollers of the wide Pacific Kosciusko, a modern spa, replete with and stretches by meadow, tableland and every convenience, golf links and tennis mountain to the rich, dry plains beneath courts,—stands at an altitude of 6000 the rim of the setting sun. feet. In Summer, the mcuntaineer and Westward of Sydney. the Blue Moun- trout fisherman stays here to enjoy the majestic scenery at the summit, or fill his tains attain an altitude of 3000 feet at a bag with fish caught in a handy stream. distance of 60 miles. The scenery is of and in Winter the ski-runner, tobogganer rare magnificence. Through comities. and ice-skater revel in the Alpine car- centuries. the rivers have carved stupen- nivals conducted on the glistening snow- dous gorges, comparable only to the fields. famous Colorado canyons. The eucalyp- The Government Tourist Bureau, a tus covered slopes give off health-giving splendidly equipped Institution at Challis odours, and graceful waterfalls, gaping House. Sydney. readily dispenses infor- valleys, fern-clad recesses and inspiring mation. maps, pamphlets and booklets, to panoramas impress themselves on the all inquirers in connection with the tour- memory of the mountain visitor. ist resorts of the State. 24 THE MID-PACIFIC
Around the Pacific
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as well as the Britisher is made welcome if he cares to make South Australia his home. The South Australian Intelligence and Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on King 'William Street, Adelaide, and the government has printed many illustrated books and pamphlets describing the scenic and industrial resources of the state. A postal card or letter to the Intelligence and Tourist Bureau in Adelaide will secure the books and information you may desire. ON TO JAPAN. The Nippon Yusen Kaisha, or Japan TO SOUTH AUSTRALIA. Mail Steamship Co. with its fleet of 94 vessels, and tonnage of 450,000, maintains From San Francisco, Vancouver and a service from Yokohama via Japanese, Chi- from Honolulu there are two lines of fast nese, Philippine and Australian ports to steamships to Sydney, Australia. Sydney and Melbourne, as well as a From Sydney to Adelaide, South Aus- European service, fortnightly from Yoko- tralia, there is a direct line of railway on hama to London and Antwerp, and from which concession fares are granted tourists Yokohama (starting at Hongkong) to Vic- arriving from overseas, and no visitor to toria, B. C., and Seattle, Wash. Be- the Australian Commonwealth can afford sides these main services, the Nippon Yu- to neglect visiting the southern central state sen Kaisha extends its coastal service to of Australia; for South Australia is the all of the principal ports in Japan, state of superb climate and unrivalled re- Korea and China, etc., thus making it the sources. Adelaide, the 'Garden City of the ideal shippers' service from Australia, South,' is the Capital, and there is a Govern- America and Europe, as well as the most ment Intelligence and Tourist Bureau, convenient around the Pacific and around where the tourist, investor, or settler is the world service for the tourist or mer- given accurate information, guaranteed by chant. There are branch offices of the the government, and free to all. From Nippon Yusen Kaisha at all the principal Adelaide this Bureau conducts rail, river ports of the world. The head office is at and motor excursions to almost every part Toyko, Japan, and its telegraphic address, of the state. Tourists are sent or conducted "Morioka, Toyko." through the magnificent mountain and pastoral scenery of South Australia. The Mr. Chu Gem, Honolulu's most re- government makes travel easy by a system spected Chinese business man, is a director of coupon tickets and facilities for caring of the Home Insurance Co., and head of for the comfort of the tourist. Excursions the firm of Quong Sam Kee Co., at the are arranged to the holiday resorts ; indi- corner of King and Maunakea Sts., which viduals or parties are made familiar with supplies the local dealers of the territory the industrial resources, and the American with drugs and general merchandise.
• THE GARDEN AND PLAY Tasmania GROUND OF AUSTRALIA ...... ■■•••■■••■
Lake Marion and Du Cane Mountains, Tasmania.
Tasmania is one of the finest tourist re- ital,—one of the most beautiful cities in the sorts in the southern hemisphere, but ten world—is the headquarters of the Tasman- hours' run from the Australian mainland. ian Government Tourist Department ; and The large steamers plying between Vic- the Bureau will arrange for transport of the toria and New Zealand call at Hobart visitor to any part of the island. A shilling both ways, and there is a regular service trip to a local resort is not to small for the from Sydney to Hobart. Between Launce- Government Bureau to handle, neither is ston and Melbourne the fastest turbine tour of the whole island too big. Travel steamer in Australia runs thrice weekly. coupons are issued including both fares arid Tasmania is a land of rivers, lakes, and accommodation if desired. mountains, and it is a veritable tourists' In Hobart and in other Tasmanian cen- paradise. It is also a prolific orchard ters there are local Tourist Associations. country and has some of the finest fruit In Launceston the Northern Tasmania growing tracks. in the world. The climate Tourist Association has splendid offices. is cooler than the rest of Australia. The Tasmanian Government has an up- The angling is one of the greatest at- to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 William tractions of the island. The lakes and rivers Street, next door to the New Zealand Gov- are nearly all stocked with imported trout, ernment office, where guidebooks, tickets, which grow to weights not reached by other and information can be produced. parts of Australia. The Tasmanian Gov- For detailed information regarding Tas- ernment issue a special illustrated handbook mania, either as to travel or settlement, dealing with angling. enquirers should write to Mr. E. T. Em- The Tasmanian Government deals di- mett, the Director of the Tasmanian Govt. rectly with the tourist. Hobart, the cap- Tourist Dept., Hobart, Tasmania. •1 ■ 1131.1k•AMIWI •AILWILIAL. • AC • • 40•Alk•Atk•SA•AMly•MMICA.:-1•1419211).-r-..!24.1L•itAM_V-' !MAI
The picturesque Oahu Railway. There are daily trains from Honoluln to the beautiful Haleiwa Hotel, and to Leilehua. Alsocombined auto and rail trips around the island through the Wahiawa pineapple fields, with a stay at Haleiwa. $lo covers all expenses of this two-day trip. iiiiiriiiiriiifitiacWWWITiiIrresitriartaream1464% WIWI • .4114■144 • irricirt-Ort-Oriatifiitiitirrlfifiiitiraiiiiiiii
.AINTED BY HONOLULU STAR BULLETIN. MERCHANT ST.