.+'4 . TheRomanceof Riding

I( , OkSahoma9s River Road -*?;:.-'*;,,&@ "- T-.-ll",-J..' .i**.: .+ / :,.;.E&'- 2 A,,:-4.4. . ... ki+ I,-,$,.' Trailing Oklahoma's River Highway by Kathleen Kunz 1 Editor The Chouteau Trail gives riders a rare glimpse of the barges and beauty , Kate Jones, along the McClellan-Kerr Arkansas River Navigation Channel. 4 ' Assistant Editor Paul Lefebvre, : Art and Production It'll be a Hot Time in Tulsa Town Kev~nNorman, Circulation Development by Susan Everly-Douze Chiliheads from all over will gather in Tulsa this September to find out Tourism and Recreation Commission who cooks up the best bowl of red. 8 Jim Pate, Chairman W.R. "Dick" Stubbs. Pecans: Fall's Rich Brown Treasure Vice Chairman by John Davis Celia Rosenberger, Every autumn Oklahomans go treasure-hunting for those kernals of Secretary Rilla Wilcox goodness called pecans. 14 James Durham Bob Hinton I R.A. "Bob" Hodder Picture Palaces Jarrell L. Jennings by Joye Boulton Dedicated volunteers have rung the curtains up again on two of the , Published quarterly by the Oklahom state's historic movie houses. 1 Tourism and Recreation Depattmen 18 Abe L. Hesser. i Executive Director The Sociable Sport of Volksmarching Eugene Dilbeck, by Sheila Samples Marketing Services Ken Flaming, WhatS a volksmarch?An organized stroll with your family - and a few Lodges thousand friends. 22 Chuck Woolsey, Administration ,Tom Creider, Hunting for "The Great Dog" , Planning & Development by G. Del Hollingsworth 'N. Clay McDermeit, Parks ,. They're called field trials, and they're to hunting dogs what competitive sports are to human athletes. 26 Oklahoma Today subscription prices: $7 per year in the U.S.; $1 1 overseas. $1.75 single copy. i Copyright 1982 by Oklahoma Today rnagazpe. A Quartet of Oklahoma Craftsmen 21 5 N.E.28th Street, P.O. Box 53384, Oklahoma by Kate Jones City, OK 73152 405/521-2496 Second-class stage paidat Oklahoma City USNN0030 18921 The Smithsonian's folk-life fettival is over: But all the talent and tradition that went to Washington have come back home to stay 30

Today in Oklahoma 36 ' COMING IN THE WIWINTER ISSUE Take a ride Books in Review 37 back to theearly days of railroading at Cushing's I' Cimarron Wley Railroad Museum, and learn how Entertainment Calendar 38 1 msny OkWorna mmrnunities haveturnedaban- "oned stations into shawptaces 03 their pasts. Browse through the masure troves of the Unl- COVERS: Front. Horse and rider are dramatically silhouetted against the sheen of ! versity of OklahornaXsWestern History Collections the Verdigris River. Photo by Wes Paz. Inside front. A Blaine County road ambles 1 -then don your boots and Stetson for some past an autumn-burnished maple. Photo by Paul Lefebvre. Back For many Okla- i fancy dancing country and wesfern style. All in homans, fall means fishing time. This angler is trying his luck from the dam of Quanah the Winter issue of Oklahoma Today Parker Lake in the Wichita Mts. Wildlife Refuge. Photo by Fred Marvel.

AUTUMN 1982 THREE - - "Let's ride!" conws the

is soon strung out, two abreast, riding north from Afton Landing. We're head- ing into an afternoon to remember: sights, sounds and smells guaranteed to pleasurc the senses, beginning with ankle-deep clouds of sweet clover. With an eye toward staging a future saddle club ride there, we are off to explore a stretch of the Jean Pierre ('houteau Hiking Trail. One of the more recent additions to the outdoor recreation scene in Oklahoma, this trail follows the McClellan-Kerr Arkansas River Navigation Channel. From a starting point near the Port of ('atoosa at Tulsa, it is laid out on the northeast shore of the channel as far as Fort Gibson, a distance of al- most 70 miles. Except for the middle section between Afton Landing south to ('houteau Lock No. 17, it is now open for equestrian use. According to Bob Smith, park ranger in the area, a popular outing BY Kathleen Kunz for horsemen is to ride from the back photosby wespaz of Chouteau Dam down to Fort Gib- Kathleen Kunr is a Norman free lance writer 'On for lunch, then back up the dam Wes Par IS a photographer for the Mu~koyppPI~OPI-IXri,ii( 71n7~-DPI~'i i' before dinner. But it is late of a Satur-

nKLAHOMA TODAY Opposite page. Bob and Ann Kuykendall and their champion stallions head up a trail of Tennessee Walkers and their riders along the canal's shore. Right. Sandy Haston (above1 and Shelba James commune with their mounts. Below. At trail's end, a well- deserved shower.

day and some of us are tired from a field equipment. A total of horse show at Bixby; we simply want 1,851,220 tons was carried to relax and appreciate all the trail on the waterway in 1981 alone. has to offer. Guessing at the barges' contents- Leaving our vans behind in the des- and waving at the men who man ignated area north of the campground, them-are two of the pleasures of the we move under towering pecan trees, trail. (For those who would like to some of them more than 200 years learn more about the workings and old. In the fall, Smith notes, all the history of the waterway, a visit to the nuts on public lands are free for the recently opened Arkansas Waterway taking so long as patrons don't resort Museum at the Port of Ca- to frailing (tying a rope around a toosa is an enjoyable finale tree to shake its branches). Reason to a hike.) enough for a trip, but he adds that the For now, the sole activ- autumn colors along the waterway ity at water's edge is an ob- are an even better reason for coming. vious father-and-son team For us, shade is all we need from of fishermen who, like the them before the path narrows as we bargemen, wave back in skirt fenced farmland. Cattle grazing greeting. The Verdigris is across the field ignore us but not the popular with catfish wild rabbits; we have disturbed their anglers, and local restau- siesta and they scatter through the rants have come to rely on fence, seeming to know they are safe the steady supply yielded ' on the other side. up from its waters. Coming around a headland on our Like fishing, a ride in , left, we catch our first glimpse of warm sunshine is heady water. Tamed and channeled by the wine for imaginations, and soon the Corps of Engineers, the Verdigris grain elevator ahead, one of several River here still bends gracefully dotting the banks, is transformed into through the rolling hills. Because to- a castle on the Rhine. But when we day's quota of barges either is already reach the shade of its tall shafts, their downstream or has reached Catoosa, down-to-earth function comforts us it is hard to imagine that placid curve more than romantic visions. I of water as part of eastern Oklahoma's Resting the horses here, we have giant step toward world commerce. time to admire the spider- But on any given day, from three wort and other wildflowers , to four barges will pass through the growing nearby and to locks on the channel, each process trade horse stories. Trail taking about half an hour, providing riders are a comradely the hiker or rider with an intriguing bunch, and this group is show. Sometimes the cargo is even no exception. more fascinating, ranging as it does Bob Kuykendall, our from a 780-ton nuclear reactor bound trail leader today, and his for Kansas to a giant staircase perched wife, Ann, rein up their on the flat deck, destined to grace a champion stallions, Good Saudi Arabian civic center. More like- Friday K and Friday's Ma- ly the football-field-sized barges con- rauder K, to detail our tain wheat or soybeans, fuel oil for course for the rest of the Eastern Seaboard factories or oil- ride. Our Tennessee Walk-

AUTUMN 1982

Opposrte page Dayle James of Okmulgee leads the group across a dry streambed.

ing Horses, for the most part offspring ment property as the easement along Another mile or two of broad bot- of these two studs, make ideal trail a navigation channel is often useless tomlands and breezy hilltops-it's a horses because of their easy gait and for regular parklands," Jeter explains, totally different perspective, seeing quick obedience. Bob also wants to "but the trail rescued a potentially the countryside from seven feet up in- know our opinions of the trail. useless corridor and transformed it stead of hunched beneath a backpack Dr. Ann Kent, a physician from into recreation area which almost -and we reluctantly turn our horses Muskogee, and her daughter, Sue, are everyone can enjoy." for home. Like kids on a ferris wheel, both enthusiastic. Other recognition came with the we would like to ride forever, but the "We've had to travel as far as Cedar 1980 Hike-A-Nation, a coast-to-coast horses have had a long day. Imme- Lake in the Ouachitas for a decent trip to promote backpacking, trailrid- diately, they quicken their pace slight- day's ride," Dr. Kent says. "This is ing and wilderness hiking. The plan- ly, seeming to know that home-and certainly a lot more convenient." ners completely revised their route, dinner--are thataway. Sandy Haston, new to this trail, is making a large detour so that partic- Low in the sky, the sun still glints unequivocal: "It's fantastic-I can't ipants could hike the Chouteau Trail. off rippling water on our right, and a wait to come back!" An on-the-trail party there celebrated cooler evening breeze has sprung up to Davle and Shelba James are no less the reaching of journey's midpoint. freshen us. Reaching the clover field approving. One of their horses has One reason for the trail's popularity where our vans wait, we review the never been ridden on a trail before, is that it is so easy to follow, accord- variety of experience offered by Chou- or even been near other horses, so ing to Ranger Smith, who, as past teau Trail. Fragrant woods, wide they appreciate the wide-open stretch- president of the Oklahoma Trails As- grassy hillsides and patient fishermen es, which give a horse room to man- sociation, can readily compare it to make a counterpoint to the busy work- euver. other state trails. Considered to be ings of navigational lock machinery Local riders and hikers aren't the low-risk, it is ideal for scouting groups and tugboat crews steering their cargo only ones to appreciate Chouteau of all ages. to the Gulf. We can't wait to go back. Trail, however. Dedicated in the fall "It's also a great place to observe Rudyard Kipling was wrong when of 1976, it quickly gained national waterfowl, a variety of hawks and he waxed poetic about East and West recognition, winning the Chief of En- wild turkey as well as other wildlife," and the twain never meeting. But then gineers Environmental and Design Smith adds. While a permit is not he never had the opportunity to sad- Award, according to Cynthia Jeter, needed to ride the trail, equestrian dle up for a ride along one of the trails coordinator for the Corps of clubs and other groups should notify busiest "frontiers" in the New West, i~n~ineers'Tulsa District. the ranger station beforehand that one that reaches out to the farthest "Such a narrow strip of govern- they will be using the trail. points on earth. a

AUTUMN 1982 SEVEN OKLAHOMA TODAY EIGHT I . ( I ' When the Green Country Regional Chili Cookoff turns the Oil Capital into the Chili Capital -if just for a day - It'll BeA HotTime By Susan Everly-Douze Photos by Jon B. Petersen Susan Everly-Douze is a writer for the Tulsa World. Jon 6. Petersen is a professional photographer liv~ngin Tulsa

There's nothing mild about sanctioned by the International Chili chili. Just ask any chili- Society. The winner is eligible to com- head. pete in the World's Championship Nothing mild about the spicy stew Chili Cookoff in California. or the heated disputes over the proper Combined with a two-day bluegrass ingredients, where it came from--or festival that begins the night before, who cooked the first pot. the cookoff, now a Tulsa tradition, is But mostly, there's nothing mild a treat for all the senses. about a chili cookoff, that all-impor- The marching band that escorts the tant judgment of who stirs up the "bowls of blessedness" to the judges "best red." Just ask the thousands of harmonizes with the twang of jam- Oklahomans who crisscross the state ming country fiddles. The nose-tick- from Woodward to Lawton, Claremore ling pungency of pecks upon pecks to Cleveland, to compete--or just of peppers shares the air with the odor sample-at these down-home culinary of frying onions. olympics. To titillate-or torch-the tongue, The grand finale of Sooner chili there are dished-up samples galore of stakes, however, gets a citified setting, chili. And, for the eyes, it's a visual the Main Mall in downtown Tulsa. feast, thanks to folks who make even It's the Green Country Regional Chili better hams than they do chili cooks, Cookoff, Sept. 11, a four-state event ,all competing for showmanship prizes

Opposite page. Thumping bass fiddles and jangly banjos will begin Tulsa's third annual bluegrass and chili extravaganza at 7 p.m. Sept. 10. I The next day brings more bluegrass -and a convocation of hot peppers and chili cooks.

Right. Chefs from four states and chiliheads from all over descend on Tulsa for a day devoted to simmering and sampling and celebrating that most controversial of all concoctions-chili,

AUTUMN 1982 NINE for choreographed routines and dec- long before the conquistadores came First Original World's Championship orated booths. along. In fact, some chili historians Chili Cookoff took place in Terlingua, "There's a lot of camaraderie, and claim the Aztecs chopped up some of Texas (pop. 2). the spectator gets swept into it," ex- those would-be conquering Spaniards The contest spawned the Interna- plains Caroline Robertson, of Down- and served them for dinner-seasoned tional Chili Society, which has since town Tulsa Unlimited, a sponsor of with chiles. moved its headquarters, and world- the event. "If you're a chili cook, In the U.S., range cooks did the championship cookoff, to California, you're a member of a special group." most to popularize the dish, using the much to Texas' bewilderment. Last But hardly exclusive. pungent peppers and other spices to year more than 30,000 attended that Oklahomans and Texans like to transform fresh-killed beef, buffalo or major cooking festival, featuring the stake claim to chili along with oil armadillo into a treat for cowpokes. winners of nationwide district, state wells and chicken frieds, but these Those cattle drives led to Texas and regional cookoffs. days, a fiery passion for chili is as trail towns with chili parlors, and That's all a testament to many fiery American as apple pie. And cookoffs thanks to the Depression, "when chili scrimmages on the hot subject of chili. are sanctioned and regulated by the was cheap and the crackers free," the Or as Paula Galusha, chili chairper- International Chili Society in all 50 dish became a national institution- son for the Tulsa event, says, "There states-and worldwide as well. the stuff of plentiful anecdotes. are as many ways to make chili as Cookoffs in Mexico, a natural home Oklahoma pundit Will Rogers, who there are people." of the spicy chile peppers, are to be coined the alliterative appellation Chiliheads, she says, can argue for expected. But how about under the bowl of blessedness, was said to judge hours over the merits of Mexican ore- palm trees in Tahiti? Even Australia a town by its chili. Jesse James, too. gano over Italian or whether an open has gotten into the act with, you As legend goes, the infamous bandit fire is essential for prize-winning chili. guessed it, kangaroo chili cookoffs. would spare a town's bank if he fa- Over the years, cooks' claims to that To keep up with it all, there's even vored the chili parlor. His excuse: special ingredient have ranged from a newspaper for chiliheads, entitled, "Any place that has a chili joint like two cups of tequila to black-bear meat naturally enough, Chili. that ought to be treated better." from Oklahoma's Adair County. Why all the fuss about a dish that In Beverly Hills, Chasen's restau- Chili has been named for U.S. began as a humble mixture of beef rant chili, "Soup of the Devil," is a presidents, native sons (as in "James and chiles but exploded into a cult celebrity favorite. When Elizabeth Garner's Oklahoma Chili") 4ven food that has had every "secret" in- Taylor was filming "Cleopatra," she critters. How about a bowl of "Buz- gredient from tequila to chocolate had some flown in frozen to Rome. zard's Breath Chili"? thrown into it in the quest for the In 1967, the chili wars began. There's "Diet Chili," "Zucchini "best red"? Humorist H. Allen Smith wrote an Chili" and "Goober Peanut Chili." The Official Chili Cookbook, pub- article for Holiday magazine entitled There's even a recipe for chili lished by the International Chili Soci- "Nobody Knows More About Chili haters, courtesy of former Texas gov- ety and the bible of chiliheads, as they Than I Do." Texas chili cooks, nat- ernor Allan Shivers: "Put a pot of like to be called, shines some light on urally, took up the challenge, and the chili on the stove to simmer. Mean- the hot subject. while broil a sirloin steak. Continue Chile pods were used in the ancient to bubble the chili and eat the steak. cuisines of China, India and Arabian Forget about the chili." For chiliheads who approach the lands as well as Cervantes' Spain. The Tulsa's McClain High School Stepping Incas, Aztecs and Mayan Indians were Scots lived up to their name with some dish with an eclectic attitude, the whipping up batches of the fiery stew fancy stepping at last year's festivities. Green Country Regional Cookoff fea- tures an "open" event where literally anything goes into the pot. Last year one chef even pulled out an old boot. For competitors in the ICS-sanc- tioned event, however, there are some "do's and don'ts." Tops on the list is "No fillers," and that includes that anathema of chili cultists, beans. And even if it isn't against the of- ficial rules, no chili cook worth his jalapenos would even consider using hamburger. "Putting hamburger in chili for a cookoff is like entering a Volkswagen in the Indy 500," sniffs Max Vallejo, a California chili champ and ICS judge. "They really are a serious bunch," explains Downtown Tulsa's Ms. Rob- ertson. "Everyone thinks their chili is

TEN OKLAHOMA TODAY the best and they are going to win." How does one get hooked on the "red"? Talk to Robert Alexander, Well-seasoned Chili Chefs whose "Baja Red Chili" won last year's Green Country cookoff and sent him to California to compete for chili cookoff is concoct- great. And if the iudges agree, the jackpot of the chili world, the ed of equal parts good too, I'll be going to ('alifornia for IC'S's world championship title and A chili and good people, and the world championship." $20,000 grand prize. Tulsa's Green Country cookoff Phyllis and Bob Scroggs have He didn't win, but his enthusiasm will have plenty of both, thanks already been to ('alifornia once, for chili remains unquenched. After a to folks like Oklahoma City's after winning the first Green Floyd Cunningham and Phyllis Country cookoff two years ago. warm-up in a half dozen cookoffs in and Bob Scroggs of Sand Springs. Rob's the cook, but Phyllis, who Oklahoma and Arkansas this summer, Floyd Cunningham's chili is says she's a "confirmed chili- he'll bring his battered black pot and something of an Oklahoma ('ity head," is an enthusiastic member cache of special spices back to Tulsa institution-in fact, so is Floyd. of his team. to prepare his movable feast once He started cooking chili as a hob- There can be only one chef, again for the Green Country judges. by back about 1970. "I discovered but team members help with Alexander's love of chili began the old-fashioned chili parlors everything from chopping chiles when he clipped a prize-winning rec- were disappearing from the scene, to carrying on in choreographed, ipe from the Tulsa World. That was and liking chili the way I do, I costumed routines that count to- started trying to match that chili- ward a "showmanship" title. more than 12 years ago, and today parlor flavor," he says. Bob's been a serious chili cook he admits he's hooked on cookoffs. He's been vying in cookoffs for about 10 years, and attending "When I first started it wasn't since 1979, and his creation, ''Ger- cookoffs for four. "He's an elec- paramount to win; it was just fun and man Red" Chili, gets two pages trical engineer," Phyllis says, self-satisfying to have people say how in the International Chili Society's "and he's kept a very technical good your chili was," he says. "But OfficialChrl~ Cookbook (one page manual on how his recipe has once you do win, it's a real letdown for the chili, one for its most spe- evolved, documenting every when you don't because you think cia1 ingredient, Floyd's own Ger- change he's ever made." that yours is the best." As to advice for cookoff novices, man smoked sausage). Bubbling up the best requires con- He took first in the Canadian Phyllis echoes Floyd, with elabo- County Chili Cookoff in El Reno rations. "It's a combination of stant tinkering. Alexander has been in May, and he's the chairman off-the-wall entertainment and adjusting his spices as long as he's and founding father of the ICS cultural event," she says. "En- been cooking chili. It also develops State Championship Cookoff, vision a Mardi Gras atmosphere, some habits peculiar to chiliheads. sponsored by the Oklahoma City with lots of people, costumes, When Alexander, a Tulsa sales Jaycees in August. The winners booth decorations. . . . At the manager, travels on business, he of both the Oklahoma City and same time, you're also going to spends his spare hours dashing off to Tulsa cookoffs end up in Cali- observe really serious cooks, gour- the new city's ethnic neighborhoods fornia for the world champion- mets." in search of a new chile or exotic ship. What to bring? A cup or spoon, Asked for tips on cookoff-watch- for sure. "What's a chili cookoff spice to brew in his pot. Ask him if ing, Floyd says, "C'ome expecting if you can't sample the wares?" he's eaten in any good restaurants to join in and have a good time. she asks. lately and he'll tell you about a dyna- The spectators are the life of a Next, bring the kids. "I<'S- mite chili savored at a kosher Mex- cookoff." If you want to play sponsored cookoffs are wholesome ican eatery on the latest of his travels. judge, consider Floyd's musts for family entertainment," she says. When he sets up his cooking booth good chili: 1. It needs to have "And I guarantee they won't get on the Main Mall, Alexander will true chili flavor; vegetables bored. decorate with some strings of chiles shouldn't predominate. 2. The "In fact, come even if you don't and a display of spices. color should be a medium red. like chili. There's lots of beer and 3. Chili shouldn't be greasy. 4. Or bluegrass, and vendors sell every- For other competitors, however, too hot-flavored. 5. Or too thin. thing from peanuts to pretzels. more interested in the show than the A note added to a letter he sent "Let me put it this way: If you go, that's small stuff. In the past, out before the Oklahoma City want to be entertained in a re- booths have been transformed into cookoff says it all: "Remember: laxing, friendly atmosphere with everything from M*A"S*H units to Flavor, not heat, is the measure people who're there for the same tributes to the marriage of Prince of chili's quality." reason you are-just to have a Charles and Lady Di. Plus cooks are He'll be taking his recipe to good time and eat some great chili allowed seven minutes to perform the Green Country cookoff. "My --come to Tulsa in September." choreographed routines. chili' may not be the best," he And look for Phyllis and Bob For an inkling of what might go on says, "but it's the kind I like to and Floyd; they'll be glad to talk eat. If everyone else agrees, that's chili with you. KJ this year, take a look at a newsletter that went out last year to competitors, warning that advance notice must be

-- -- given if the cooking teams are bring-

AUTUMN 1982 ELEVEN ing in the likes of "sky divers, horses, cows, dancers, hang gliders, magicians, mystics, helicopters, celebrities. . ." You get the idea. Cookoff regulars agree that the best way to enjoy a chili cookoff is to get there early. All recipes must be pre- pared from scratch, and cooks get started chopping, grinding and spice mixing at 10 a.m. sharp Saturday, Sept. 11. Most chiliheads are con- genial chatterboxes and love to talk about the history of their recipes and chili cookoffs past as they prepare the ingredients. The pots go on the fire at noon, and between 1:30 and 3 p.m. it's show- manship time, with the cooking teams competing for prizes for best routines His booth was plain, but Tulsan Bud Griffiih'schili was fancy and best booth decoration. enough to win the "open" competition last September. At 3 p.m. the battling chilis are complete, and samples are escorted to and crackers and blessed bottles of the judges to the tune of none other beer to keep the judges going through than a full marching band. the umpteen samples. What are these arbiters of fine chili Finally, to much hootin' and hol- looking for? The winner will have just lerin', the judges deliver their verdict: the right texture, taste, consistency, who produced the best "red." aroma and blend of spices that per- The winner can pack up kettle and meate the meat just enough. Grease condiments for the California cookoff. bowls and tongue torchers need not For the rest, it's back to the kitchen bother to apply. to continue the quest for that spiciest To cleanse the palate of the latest of culinary goals: the quintessential taste, there are celery, limes, cheese bowl of chili. m

It's chili on wheels when the time comes to transport sample "bowls of blessedness" from cooks to judges. The cart's preceded by no less than a marching band.

OKLAHOMA TODAY ~ChristmasGift-giving Got YOU Buffaloed? They both are second-generation pecan growers, raised on farms about Pecans: FALL'S RICH four miles apart. Maxine's father, Robert Unterkircher, farmed right BROINN Autumn in Oklahoma means up to the day he carefully pulled his redleafed oak trees and golden tractor to a stop, switched off the maples and sweetgums-and engine and died peacefully at age 84. . -.. . . TREASURE tall pecan trees shedding their Paul's father, Grover Haydon, began yellow leaves, the fat brown working on his farm as a farm laborer nuts thudding thick on the in 1915, and eventually acquired 1,200 ground around them. In the state's acres. In the 1930s the farm was pub- parks and public lands you'll see licized as the largest native-pecan, whole families wandering among the orchard in the world under one fence. ' trees, stooped low, heads down, poking Paul and Maxine, who married in among the leaves to gather the nuts 1949, purchased the farm and have for winter cakes, pies and candies. spent the years since constantly im- And on some 6,000 farms where Okla- proving it. Now it is known among homans raise pecans for profit, the pecan producers as a model farm for annual pecan harvest begins. the production of cattle and pecans. Most of the work is done by mech- In the spring and early summer red- anized equipment now. But on the and-white polled Herefords graze on Deep Fork of the North Canadian the thick rye and native grasses under ' River, north of Okemah, Paul and the carefully spaced trees, getting fat 1 Maxine Haydon still hire about 35 while acting as four-legged mowers. people to pick about a fourth of their And in the fall the pecans plunk down pecan crop. It's traditional, and it onto the neatly manicured grounds. also gives insurance in case the "Pecans and cows go together," By John Davis ground is too wet for the hechanized Maxine says. "If the pecans don't John Davis is a Norman free-lance writer harvesters. make a crop, we have the profit from FOURTEEN OKLAHOMA TODAY I Opposite page. Pecans, the tallest of the hickories, give shade all summer, and in the autumn, a nut-brown bountv. Photo

'Pecans and cows go together," says Max~neHaydon "If the pecans don't make a crop, we have the proflt from our cow-calf operation " Photo by Fred Marvel our cow-calf operation." drupled their production. Now they afraid to leave home, afraid some- The Haydons, among the state's have 550 acres of pecan orchards as thing will come up." largest pecan producers, made profit- carefully managed as garden crops. "We keep thiliking we'll find a slack able crops even during the recent dry They constantly thin out trees for season," Paul says, "but we never do." years and last year produced their maximum production. Trees that are "That's what makes it so interest- record crop. With the other growers too close together grow pecans only ing," Maxine says. "We're not just they've worked for years upgrading on top where the sun strikes. Set too running a farm, but constantly im- the state's pecan production, prin- far apart, the trees waste space. Un- proving it. We keep the fence rows cipally through grower associations dergrowth that competes with trees built. Last year we rebuilt our house. and the Oklahoma Pecan Commission, for water and nutrients is removed. We chose this way to live and we've a state agency funded by the growers. The cattle keep the grass down, and worked hard and we've enjoyed it. Maxine is one of the agency's five in July and August the remainder is The farm's paid its way at a time grower commissioners, and Paul is a mowed and baled for winter feeding. when many farmers are hurting. We former commissioner. They fertilize about Dec. 20, when may have to throw in the towel some- The difference in their production no other vegetation is growing, and the day. Though I don't know if we want methods and that of their parents' fertilizer goes down to the tree roots. to stay at it as long as my dad did." generation pretty much sums up the They spray the trees from the air "One thing," Paul says. "I want to history of the pecan industry in Okla- three times a year with insecticides leave it better than I found it." homa. In earlier days, the farmers and spot-spray from the ground at The way it is right now is like a were at the mercy of the weather, in- other times. Some growers haven't picture postcard: the two-story sand- had luck with air spraying. "But we've stone house, neat orchards, manmade the trees produced a good or a bad made it work,'' Paul says. "It's so ponds, Hereford cattle grazing on the crop, and about all the farmers could very fast-it's done in about four thick grass. It looks like a place for a do was watch. Now there's still noth- hours." huge picnic-and you wouldn't even As diversified farmers, they have need a blanket to spread on the late frost killed perhaps half of this no slack season. "We're on seven days ground. ear's crop. But they can control other a week, 24 hours a day," Maxine says Like the Haydons, other Oklahoma with a laugh. "We may have to deliver pecan growers are making use of a oing that the Haydons have qua- a baby calf day or night. We're almost natural resource that has existed here

UTUMN 1982 FIFTEEN The Haydon farm is picture- postcard perfect, from sandstone home to Herefords grazing under stately trees to antique tools d~splayedaga~nsta rough-hewn fence. Photos by Fred Marvel.

from earliest times. Great forests of low prices and because hand labor is pecan trees have long grown along the no longer available to pick them. And rivers and creeks in the eastern and some farmers are bulldozing pecan southern parts of the state. Indians trees and putting in other crops. and early white settlers picked all "That's a sad thing," Couch says. they wanted and left tons to go to "Pecans are not a crop you plant in waste. "They lay rotting on the ground one year. It may take a generation in great piles unless the hogs ate to get native pecans into production. them," one settler recalled. It's sad to see them 'dozed. They've After railroads opened up the state, been there a long time. It's almost a a strong pecan market developed, re- sin in my opinion. And it's a mistake. sulting in widespread planting of new Instead of learning how to manage orchards in the 1930s. In recent years, the pecan crop they go out and put in despite the use of new production another crop that won't make as much methods, the state's pecan industry is money. At the time that's happening1 hurting. Overall pecan acreage has here, in New Mexico, Arizona and been dropping since the 1930s. And in Texas they're taking out soybeans, al- the past 10 years annual production falfa and cantaloupes and putting in ( has fallen from 21 million to 12 mil- pecan orchards. Someone is wrong." ' lion pounds. As an example of what new man- Gordon Couch, a Luther pecan agement methods can do with old grower and graduate forester who re- trees, Couch leased eight acres of tired in April as executive director of pecan trees that hadn't been in pro- the Oklahoma Pecan Commission, duction in 15 years. The first year he gives'a number of reasons for the de- gathered 1,500 pounds of pecans an crease. New lakes and new housing acre and last year increased that to developments destroy many acres of 1,732 pounds. trees. This year perhaps half of the With the knowledge of what the crop was not harvested because of new methods can do, growers are put SIXTEEN OKLAHOMA TODA1 ting in more new orchards than at any . other time since the 1930s. Though giant-sized bottomland stands of na- tive pecan trees may be falling to the bulldozer, small acreages of hybrid Pecan Fever paper-shell varieties are going in across the state. Every autumn when the air old-time way. People come from Oddly, many of the orchards are turns crisp, Oklahomans go a little as far away as Hobart and Okla- nutty. "We call it 'pecan fever,' " homa City to pick on shares- being planted by older people who says 'Evelyn Boake, who with her standard papershell varieties like realize they will never see the pecans husband, Corwin, runs the Boake Texas, Prolific, Stuart, Oklahoma mature. They're leaving them as a Pecan Farm on West Central and seven more. Other "unknown" legacy, as a living monument. They're Boulevard at the edge of Ana- varieties are the result of R. L. leaving behind them a monument of darko. "As soon as it's cold enough grafting from trees native to the pecan trees, tallest of the hickories, to put on a sweater, women start area that were thought to bear whose nuts and shade and eloquent thinking about holiday baking.'' outstanding nuts. silhouettes gave bonuses to them all And to pecan-country cooks, holi- Some folks return year after their lives. day food means pecans, and lots year to pick; others simply stop rn of them. to buy ready-picked, new-crop pe- The onset of pecan fever means cans. "There's an old-fashioned the onset of the Boakes' busiest variety called Burkett that's a season, from Thanksgiving till favorite for baking," says Evelyn, Christmas. Their orchard, 21 acres herself an award-winning pecan in the Washita riverbottom with chef. "But it doesn't ripen until 225 trees, is a legacy of Corwin's mid-December. We've been known uncle, R. L. Boake, who planted to get out there and threaten and it in the years from 1925 to 1930. plead with those nuts to get ready Paul and Maxine Haydon, second- generation Oklahoma pecan raisers, When Corwin, a Gotebo native, in time for Christmas." at the annual Oklahoma Pecan and Evelyn retired from Army The Boakes, who can be reached Grower's Show In St~llwater. life seven years ago, they came at (405) 247-6862, take obvious Photo by Fred Marvel. to Anadarko. Five years ago they care and pride in what they call began restoring the old orchard, their "small, old-fashioned, mom- which had been unproductive for and-pop operation," but they can't years. With the help of Oklahoma satisfy the cravings of a whole State University and George state of pecan-lovers single-hand- Hedger, and the Noble Founda- ed. Fortunately, there are orchards tion, in two years they had a scattered all across the state's pe- productive harvest. "The joy of can regions-and numerous out- raising pecans for us has been the lets for nuts in the shell, as well challenge of restoring the grove as "custom crackers" who can take for production," Corwin says. part of the work out of turning The joy for people who come in-shell pecans into golden-brown to the Boakes' is that they can nutmeats. The Oklahoma Pecan still wander beneath lofty trees Commission puts out a sampler and gather pecans by hand. The of sources titled "Consumer Boakes do use a "shaker" (a hy- Guide, Oklahoma Pecans." For a draulic tractor attachment that copy, send a self-addressed shakes the trunks of the trees and stamped envelope to the commis- makes them rain pecans), but the sion at P.O. Box 882, Claremore, rest of the harvesting is done the OK 74107.-KJ

- A IAUTUMN 1982 SEVENTEEN project, J. 0. Selman, didn't really be t's show time. lieve talking pictures would last. He Slowly, the lights of the audi- insisted any theater he helped finance torium's four smaller chande- accommodate live performances and liers dim. vaudeville as well as films. Then .the glow of the larger central Consequently, such stars as Gene unit fades also. Autry, Tom Mix and Bob Steele, as A strain of live music rises from well as popular vaudeville entertain- the orchestra pit . . . wells to over- ers of the period, performed on the ture volume. Audience whispers dwin- Woodward's stage. But movies were dle. A gray-haired woman sinks deep the featured attraction from the the- into an old-fashioned, red plush seat ater's opening until its doors closed . . . her fingers run back and forth in 1980. along the time-worn arm as she re- To survive the Depression, its own- calls years gone by. Younger patrons ers resorted to such devices as home poise eagerly as the gold-fringed, red movies of local residents, shown be- velvet curtains part. fore the regular features, in order to It's a moment of warm nostalgia, help draw a crowd. "Bank nights" at- pure pleasure. Another audience is tracted customers with cash drawings. about to enjoy "live" music, "live" World War I1 brought Woodward drama, in their community's newly an Air Corps base and prosperity. refurbished theater. But the movie business was chang- Thanks to the dedication of a core ing. Wider screens and larger audi- of practical visionaries, backed by the toriums came. Mass ownership of hard work of dozens of volunteers, cars made it possible for audiences to this scene is commonplace in two go afield for entertainment. Down- Oklahoma communities town movie houses declined. Just recently, both the Woodward The Terry family shifted operations Theater and the Sooner Theater ap- to more modern facilities. It appeared peared doomed. Today the excite- the Woodward Theater would vanish ment in both Woodward and Norman like the Criterion and the State in is as great as it was when both the- Oklahoma City, the Orpheum and the The organization's dedication and aters opened as "talkie" houses back Majestic in Tulsa and other picture the community's support were so in 1929. palaces across Oklahoma. strong that within six months the Up in Woodward, in those days But interest in the state's heritage $50,000 needed to buy the building when movies lived in palaces, Vance was growing. In December 1980, a was raised, along with another $70,000 and Ben Terry commissioned archi- group of volunteers organized the for renovation. tect Leonard S. Bailey to design their Woodward Art Theatre under the On May 1, 1981, the organization showhouse. L. S. Fisher, a pioneer auspices of the Woodward Arts Coun- took possession from Dwight and Nor- northwest Oklahoma builder, handled cil. Its purpose: purchase and res- man Terry, sons of the original the construction. Fortunately, the ma- toration of the landmark Woodward owners. jor financial backer of the Terrys' Theater. Then the real work began. Hun-

EIGHTEEN OKLAHOMA TODAY The opulence of a world gone by has been preserved in the Woodward Theatre. Photo by Fred Marvel.

dreds of hours were spent scraping was the way it involved so many dif- feature plays by the Woodward Com- gum off the theater's floor. Indeed, ferent people from so many differ- munity Theater, the Cimarron Cir- there was so much gum that Bob ent walks of life, with everyone work- cuit Opera from Norman, local dance Jones remarked, "I figured if we ing for the common goal of preserving groups and perhaps even a perform- scraped all the gum off this place, it this landmark and also giving the ance of Pippin by a New York City would fall apart." Woodward area a facility that would company. Jack Luthi adds, "Each of the orig- accommodate different kinds of live Norman's project, in turn, called inal 523 chairs was anchored to the performance." for renovation of the old Sooner The- floor with four steel bolts. Each bolt Ray Lynch, another volunteer who ater, a showhouse built on the site of had to be chiseled off by hand be-' had worked at the theater before its the community's first holiday celebra- cause the nuts were so corroded you decline, remarked, "The theater was tion-an Absentee Shawnee Indian couldn't even find them." never this nice even then." Virginia Lowrey overcame all fear Personal touches remain. Drawings of heights to mount a huge ladder to of Mickey Mouse, Minnie Mouse, By Joye R. Boulton clean the chandeliers. Edna Patterson Betty Boop and other stars of an Joye R. Boulton 1s a Norman free-lance writer. painted the ladies' restrooms. Laney earlier time decorate the green room Duckett rewired the light board. Dana beneath the stage. They were done in Heltzen, Marlo Paul, Dan Procter and 1934 by high schooler "Ke-mo-ha" a host of others were involved with (Pat Patterson), now a recognized whatever chores needed doing. Oklahoma artist. "We got a $200,000 remodeling job Nov. 11, 1981, marked the grand for $70,000," says Lavern Phillips, opening with a performance of Tom Woodward Art Theatre board pres- Maguire's New American Ragtime 'ident. "The fun we had in doing it all Ensemble. The coming season will

AUTUMN 1982 NINETEEN A view from the balcony shows off the Spanish styling of Norman's Sooner Theatre. Photo by Fred Marvel.

of arms of Spanish nobility struction company was contracted to (allegedly painted by Gimeno make repairs. The sagging marquee in his garage) are spotted at was tom off, the holes plugged, the regular intervals on wood lobby cleared and the interior re- panels in the ceiling. furbished. The Sooner functioned as As work progressed, fascinating de- a movie house for many years. tails came to light: stained-glass win- But, as in Woodward, Nor- dows, wood paneling, coffered ceilings. man's downtown area increas- The original advertising backdrop, ingly lost ground after World still sound, carried notices from firms War 11. The theater closed its of the period when two- and three- doors in 1974. digit telephone numbers were the But a handful of Norman- rule. Accoustics, it was discovered, ites couldn't bear to see the were well-nigh perfect. "When you historic structure vanish. In stand in the middle of the stage and 1976 they fdrmed Sooner The- snap your fingers, you can hear the atre Inc. in an effort to save it. sound clear in the back row," says That same year it was added Patricia Eek, former president of the to the state and national his- theater's board. toric registers. Today, restoration still isn't com- To free .itself from what plete. "We have no spotlights, no amounted to a "dead horse" sound system," laments Pat Cacy, the lease that wouldn't expire un- theater's manager. "We want to put til 1980, Video Independent up a new marquee, restore the orig- Theaters agreed to pay inal doors and facad-h, I can't tell $10,000 toward the purchase. you how many things there still are The city obtained the remain- ing $65,000 needed from Com- stomp dance, held July 4, 1889. munity Development Block Grant The theater opened Feb. 9, 1929. funds and received the deed to the Norman's original "talkie" house, it property in November 1977. Sooner was equipped with the Warner Vita- Theatre Inc., a non-profit organiza- phone system and Fox Movietone. tion, then was granted a 99-year lease Right. Thanks to volunteers, the "Alias Jimmy Valentine," a silent that freed the city from any obliga- Woodward's marquee again has picture dubbed for sound and star- tion for further expense. something to say. Photo by Fred Marvel.Center: Some of those ring ~illia'm Haines and Lionel Then the problems of actual restora- volunteers restore the original seats. Barryrnore, was its initial offering. tion came into focus. Photo by Don Baxter. Far right. 1 Featured with the film was "Gus Externally still attractive, the Detailslikethisaisle-seatfacingmake Edward's Revue," a leading vaude- Sooner building was a shambles in- all the work worthwhile. Photo by ville act of the period, with "Ukelele side. Water had seeped in, pooling on Fred Marvel. Ike." The newly formed "Sooner the basement floor. Pigeons without Serenaders," drawn from the Univer- number resided in assorted nooks and sity of Oklahoma Band, also appeared. crannies, entering through holes in The theater itself is one of this the marquee. area's last remaining 1920-vintage cin- As if that weren't enough, removal ema palaces. Its designer and owner of the big old-fashioned evaporative was Harold Gimeno, son of an early coolers on the roof dumped more than University of Oklahoma language a truckload of pigeon droppings professor and later a leading arch- through the air shafts onto the stairs itect. His Spanish heritage shows in leading from auditorium to stage. the Sooner: Lamps hang from paint- But, as in Woodward, volunteers trimmed ceiling beams, and basket- came forward. Drawn largely from the arched false windows glisten with Junior Chamber of Commerce, they painted stars in a dark blue sky. Coats set to shoveling out the mess. A con- 4

TWENTY OKLAHOMA TODAY to be done!" But she's optimistic for the future and thinks it's only a mat- ter of time before funds will be avail- able to make it possible to finish the renovation. Meanwhile, the Sooner Theatre is open and functioning. The first event was the annual meeting of the Sooner Theatre Corporation held April 14, 1982, in the partially restored audi- Above. The Sooner presents a new- torium. The coming season promises shined face to Main Street. Right. a performance of the American Ballet What could be more fitting to a I1 Sooner State landmark than a Theatre Company from New York staging of Oklahoma!? Below. City, A Servant's Christmas by the Stained-glass windows let light Norman Community Playhouse and a into the lounge area outside the series of four musical concerts and balcony. Photos by Fred Marvel. one dance performance sponsored by the Oklahoma Arts Council. *** There are no more talking pictures at the Woodward or the Sooner. But just as the crowds came in the '30s to see the newest in entertainment, to- day the crowds come to see theatrical attractions-1980s style-in the com- fort and elegance of the past.

_I

AUTUMN 1982 TWENTY-ONE TheSociableA Sport

Although a volksmarch means differ- unassuming little jaunt, millions of ent things to different people, nobody "wanderers" have walked billions of thinks anymore that volksmarch is miles throughout the world. something you do when your Volks- A lot of them are doing it each year wagen breaks down on a country at Fort Sill, near Lawton. More by road. In fact, if the volksmarch, which accident than design, the annual In- began in Europe, continues to gain in ternational Volksmarch has become popularity at its present rate, it could the largest such event in North Amer- surpass jogging as the non-competitive ica and the largest single community- American pastime. relations effort made by any Army In Germany, volksmarch means post in the country. "people's walk." In America, it wans Volksmarching began at Fort Sill in the same thing. Human beings are ,October 1980 as something for basic- tailor-made for walking; it's some- training troops to do on a lazy Satur- thing anybody can do. Also, volks- day afternoon. According to march march rules are simple. Everybody organizer Col. Charles J. Buel, com- wins. The only object is to have a mander of the post's Field Artillery little fun, do a little dancing, do a lot Training Center, nobody had any idea of walking, eat and drink more than the event would evolve into the gar- you should and get a little closer to gantuan affair it's become. the really important things in life An astounding 6,000 wanderers just like your family and friends. "showed up" for that first little march. Volksmarching began in 1963 when Nearly 7,500 came back for more last a handful of people met at Bobingen, year, and as mhy as 10,000 are ex- Story and photos Germany, for a quiet, healing, organ- pected to converge on the sprawling, by Sheila Samples ized walk through the rolling country- 93,000-acre southwest Oklahoma artil- Sheila Samples is a Lawton free-lance writer. side near Augsburg. Since that first lery post for the third annual event

The volksmarch festivities are enlivened by peoplepleasers like the traditional dancing of Lawton's German-American Club and the oompahs of Karl WaMbauer and his Polka Kings.

TWENTY-TWO OKLAHOMA TODAY The ironic thing, Buel says, is that he'd never been on a volksmarch him- self. However, before taking the reins of the training center, he was Train- 1! ing and Doctrine Command systems 1 manager for the Army's Multiple Launch Rocket System and made many trips to Germany to coordinate with European allies the development of the recently fielded weapon. r "While there," Buel recalls, "I no- I ticed that the Stars and Stripes news- paper was bulging with listings of weekend volksmarches. GIs really turn I out for these things, so I thought it would be nice to have a little volks- march here." The response was overwhelming. Buel says that, once the volksmarch ball began rolling, there was no get- ting-off place. Everybody wanted- and got-a piece of the action. Appli- cations and queries poured in from across the country. Before the big day ended, the event had spawned the Oklahoma Striders, an active inde- Fort Sill brought out some of its big guns to salute the opening of last year's volksmarch. pendent local volksmarching club that sponsors a spring walk at the post and was created by Austria, West Ger- more than 200 volksmarches spon- travels throughout a three-state area many, Liechtenstein and Switzerland sored by the IVV and AVA annually to take part in other volksmarches. to promote the entire spectrum of throughout the United States. And the stage was set for the second "volkssport" events, such as bicycling, Fort Sill's volksmarch is sanctioned affair. cross-country skiing, swimming and by the AVA and the IVV, and boasts However, it had become too large walking. three trails. The 10-kilometer ,course for the training center to handle, so Americans stationed in Europe were (6.2 miles) is a leisurely trail, de- it was dubbed the "Second Annual among the first to jump on the volks- signed for youngsters and for the Fort Sill International Volksmarch," marching bandwagon, and when the many handicapped people who're a two-day, three-trail extravaganza, soldiers and their families returned to among volksmarching's most devoted complete with volksmarch central the states, they were incurably hooked supporters. headquarters and a staff to handle the on volksmarching, but frustrated be- The 20-kilometer course (12.4 multitude of queries and registration cause there was- nowhere to do their miles) is a bit more rugged. "It's for forms. thing. Thus, the American Volks- the serious long-distant marcher," It's impossible to predict where the sports Association (AVA) was formed Buel says. "Then we have the 30-kil- lust for walking might end, but it and, in June 1976, the first U.S. volks- ometer trail (18.6 miles) for the began in the '60s because of European sport event was held in Fredericks- volksmarching 'purist'-the guy who public demand for a non-competitive burg, Texas. wants to build up mileage. He's the sport geared to health and physical There are now more than 100 volks- professional wanderer; all he cares fitness. In 1968, the International marching clubs within the AVA, and about is getting his IVV book stamped Federation of Popular Sports (IW) more are joining each year. There are and adding up those miles."

AUTUMN 1982 TWENTY-THREE This young volksmarcher Opposite page. Shade dapples the old went the distance in a spring house at Ambrosia Springs, stroller, but won a medal where the march begins and ends. just the same. Photo by Paul Lefebvre.

Traditionally, anyone competing in the upcoming third annual Fort Sill There will be authentic German a volksmarch receives a medal, whose International Volksmarch Oct. 2-3. beer tents from which brew runs in designs vary; no two are alike. "In First-timersusually hit the trails early rivers; the aroma of sizzling bratwurst Europe, where volksrnarching is con- and hit them running, their goal to be and the acrid, mouth-watering smell sidered the national pastime, the walk "first out, first back." However, most of homemade sauerkraut hangs on the is almost incidental," Buel says. "It's marchers meandm comfortably up misty air. You can lose yourself in the medals, pins, patches-and fun- and down, over and around the scenic the mountains of baked, sugary deli- that people are after. plainsand rolling, wooded hills of the cacies and heaps of hot, fat, just-fried "European walkers are more fanatic post-visiting, laughing, making new pretzels. than American joggers. It's nothing friends-all looking forward to the fun The entire area will jump to lively for a family to head out at 3 or 4 every waiting for them at walk's end. tunes offered by a real German dance Saturday morning, armed with a list The Volksmarch begins at 8 each band, Bavaria's Karl Waldbauer and of half-dozen or so volksmarches they morning, and wanderers may start out his bouncy Polka Kings. Visitors will plan to enter that day. Volksmarching any time during the day, as long as be delighted with Lawton-Fort Sill's isn't a sport for these people; it's a they finish before 6 p.m., which is German-American club, whose mem- way of life." when volksmarches traditionally close bers will be out in force, dressed in One thing that makes volksmarch- up shop. Cut-off time for starting is 2 vivid native costumes, hyping sing- ing so popular here and abroad, ac- p.m. for the 10- and 20-kilometer alongs and arm-in-arm dance-alongs. cording to Buel, is that the event is trails, and books for the 30-kilometer They'll "work" the shouldei-to-shoul- non-competitive. The~e'sno age limit, trail close at noon. der fun-loving crowd; anybody is fair and parents carry infants along trails Volksmarching at Fort Sill is two game to be dragged onto the massive in backpacks or push them in strol- days of leaving the world outside the dance pavillion. Popular Heiman lers. Many European youngsters are post's boundaries and just "getting (homeland) singers and Schuplattler seasoned volksmarchers, with a vast down," German-style, in the county- (toe- and knee-slapper) dancers will array of medals and pins by the time fair atmosphere of sun-dappled Am- keep the action rollicking throughout they can walk, Buel says. brosia Springs, where the walks begin a weekend, which for many will end There's something for everybody at and end. all too soon. =a@

: 4 :* 4 'B 4Q,,A Let Heaping portions of food and friendship round out the celebration. The man in the middle is Col. Charles Buel, who brought volksmarching to the Wichitas. Right. Over hill, over dale, the trails roll for kilometers (not to mention miles).

TWENTY-FOUR OKLAHOMA TODAY

A golden retriever brings a downed pheasant to hand.

- Hunting - - The handler in his white as Virga signals the judges with an 3 windbreaker is a stark con- almost imperceptible wave of his right --d trast to the steely-eyed black hand. One of the judges thrusts his Labrador Retriever sitting at clipboard into the air, and the group his side. They stand motion- on the left sends up a salvo of shot- less, staring intently at two gun fire followed by the high, arcing small groups of people-also toss of a dead pheasant. in white windbreakers-stand- Storm's head jerks to the left as ing to the right and left 200 the guns fire, his eyes following the 9 yards out in the wheat stub- pheasant to the ground. ble at the Tishomingo Na- At the moment the pheasant hits I I tional Wildlife Area near Lake Tex- the ground, the judge signals the - oma. group on the right. The "guns" fire The handler puts his hand down, twice and a shackled Mallard drake palm open, and points toward the is tossed into the cattails of the small group on his left. The dog aligns his pond in front of them. head with the handler's hand. The dog twitches as the Mallard "Mark." The handler's voice is hits the water. quiet, but firm. The two shift to face Virga waits patiently. He has the group on the right, repeating the trained the dog for months just for this motions and the command. Again, day. He knows more about Storm than they are still. Storm knows about himself. But ex- The handler, Frank Virga of Wash- perience has taught him that the test ington, and the dog, The Great Black ain't over till the birds are in the Storm, are both "under judgement," hand, and there is always a touch of and their manners on the "line" are uncertainty, a moment of suspense. . . of prime importance. "Dog," the judge whispers. Story and photos Behind Virga and Storm, two "Back" Virga barks, and Storm is by G. Del Hollingsworth judges with clipboards watch closely away like a shot. G. Del Holl~ngsworthis a free-lance as Virga positions the dog. Storm Across the stubble, into the water, writer living rn Norman. grows impatient, and squirms slightly a 30-yard swim to the other side,

TWENTY-SIX OKLAHOMA TODAY At the breakaway - a brace of pointers is released during a field trial at Lake Murray State Park. Thirty seconds later, only a horse can keeo uo with the oointer, below who ;oon be I )ver the horizon.

Storm goes directly to the spot where but it was a Derby test for dogs not Club tests Labradors, Golden Re- the Mallard hit. His black form yet two years old. trievers and Chesapeakes during its pauses momentarily in the cattails, Not far away in another part of the licensed trials, according to rules of then he emerges with the duck in his wildlife area, older dogs are complet- the American Kennel Club. But it is mouth. He swims the pond, bursting ing much more difficult tests, retriev- the Labrador that is king of the cir- from the water at a gallop. Back ing birds from 200 yards or more that cuit. across the stubble he races, shaking they haven't seen fall ("blinds"), re- The trials are usually four-day af- the water from his dense black coat. lying only on the hand and whistle fairs dedicated to that age-old quest Virga has shifted to face the group signals used by the handlers to guide for The Best Dog, that special canine on the left. Storm trots up, swinging them to the bird. They also do double with an abundance of stamina, natural his rump around to sit at Virga's left marks, triple marks and quads, with ability, desire and trainability. Or- side. The Mallard lets out a rasping every conceivable difficulty thrown in ganized field trials were formalized in complaint as Virga removes the duck just to keep it interesting. 1866 in England, and rapidly spread from Storm's mouth. The judge takes This scene is repeated each fall and to wherever dogs and men congre- the duck, unties it and pops it into spring when the Sooner Retriever gated. a crate as Virga sends Storm to the fallen pheasant. Across the stubble, over a small wash, and across more stubble, Storm speeds to the "mark," scoops the pheasant into his mouth and returns to his handler. The gallery, sitting in lawn chairs behind the judges, applauds politely as Virga hands the pheasant to the judges. Storm has pulled off a perfect "mixed bag double," one of 54 dogs to try the same test, and one of the best of the lot that day. It was a fairly simple test as retriever field trials go,

AUTUMN 1982 TWENTY-SEVEN earned spots in the National Amateur Championship this year. Eligibility to the National Amateur is an honor in itself, one earned repeatedly by Boeh- ler's dog, and is amateur only in the sense that the handler is a non-pro- fessional.) Of all the trials in Oklahoma, how- ever, none is more important than those for the pointing breeds. The pointing dog trials, limited to point- ers, setters and the Continental breeds ( German Shorthairs, Brittany Span- iels and the like), begin in early Sep- tember when the Oklahoma Field Trial Clubs begin their annual com- petition. These trials are scheduled for almost every weekend from March until the end of November. Amid this crush of trial dates are squeezed important national and state events. The American Field Quail Futurity, run for the better part of its nearly 80 years in Oklahoma, is currently staged on the expansive Mc- Farlin-Ingersoll ranches near Inola. In At the line -a handler and his And since Oklahoma has a consid- addition, the Texas Open Champion- dog keep their eyes on erable population of sporting dogs ship and the Texas Open Shooting the gunners. (and sporting men and women who Dog Championship often turn to the own, train and endlessly feed them), field-trial grounds at Lake Murray the search for The Great Dog is a State Park for their annual tests. major weekend activity in the Sooner The number of prestigious pointing State. This has led to an abundance dog stakes held in Oklahoma has of important field trials and top-class grown over the years because of the dogs in Oklahoma, and the retrievers state's incomparable trial grounds. are just part of the story. Lake Murray is by far the most pop- There are also hound trials, span- ular, followed by grounds at Inola, iel trials, Dachshund trials, sheepdog Stillwater and Woodward. trials and beagle trials. And a fair Lake Murray's grounds are often number of national-calibre dogs have cited by experts as some of the best in been produced. (Two black Labrador the country. The 1,800 acres, man- retrievers, Field Champion-Amateur aged by the Oklahoma Field Trial Field Champion Shamrock Acres Clubs and the Noble Foundation of Rocky McCool, owned by Orlie Boeh- Ardmore, have been carefully groomed ler of Mustang, and Amateur Field over the years to provide ample nat- Champion Raider's Piper Cub, owned ural habitat and food sources for by Don Faulkner of Washington, native and liberated quail.

MENTY-EIGHT OKLAHOMA TODAY Two Oklahoma Open Champions -Texas Fight, front, and Special Duty -are braced for road work to get in condition for the trial season.

Pointing dog trials are relatively who spend their weekends training, Great Dog. simple affairs and make good specta- trialing or feeding the next champion. For more information on retriever tor sport if there is a horse in the History has proven that the best field trials in Oklahoma, contact The family. Dogs are released two at a dogs, whether hound, pointer or re- Sooner Retriever Club, through either time and allowed to work for a speci- triever, usually descend from top-class Bill Blochwiak, Rt. 1, Box 158, Mc- fied time period. The dogs are scored field-trial stock. And while precious Loud, OK 74851 or Ms. Michael subjectively on their hunting pattern, little fortune, and only a modicum of Treut-Virga, Rt. 1, Box 23-B, Wash- "style," range and the number of fame, comes from raising, training and ington, OK 73093. For information on birds they find. When the dogs do campaigning a field-trial dog, field pointing dog trials in Oklahoma, con- find birds, scores are based on trialers agree that their purpose is a tact the Oklahoma Field Trial Clubs staunchness as the birds are flushed noble one: breeding better dogs and Association, through Barbara Boyett, and a gun is fired. No birds are killed, perpetuating the best traits as they 400 Peach Tree, Ponca City, OK and most field-trial grounds prohibit search for that elusive goal-The 74601. the carrying of any guns other than blank pistols. Most pointing trials do require a horse, although a new type for foot-hunters is gaining popularity in the state. While some may view this dog mad- ness as just that, field trials have a noble purpose that is not lost on those

Waiting in the dog wagon for their turn in the field.

AUTUMN 1982 TWENTY-NINE The Water Witcher

oy Smaltz of Cushing witch- -150 to 200 wells, he reckons, all the starting out as a bookkeeper at Cush- ed his first water well ,out way from Pryor to Ponca City to ing's First National Bank and Trust in New Mexico something Chandler to Sparks, in .a rough 150- Co. -When he retired 45 years later, it like half a century ago. mile radius of his Cushing home. His was as a vice-president. He was also "My wife's brother was an oil-well geography of the area is dotted with city treasurer for 46 years. driller-drilled around here for years, the wells he's found: "this side of It might seem strange to some that went out around Borger and drilled Drumright," "north of town a ways," a man of that stature would have out there, then went out to New Mex- "down on the river," "northwest of water witching as a hobby, but Roy ico to drill water wells for ranchers," Kendrick. . ." maintains he's never gotten any more Roy says. "He always used a witcher, The local geography is familiar to than a little friendly kidding about a woman who'd find water for him." h'im for another reason: He came to his avocation. "They either believe it Roy and his wife went out to New the area in 1902, when he was two or they don't," he says. "If they don't, Mexico for a vacation one summer. years old. "We came as far as Stroud they keep still about it. If they don't "My brother-in-law said to me, 'You on the Frisco; the railroad was put know anything about it, they tend not look like you could witch a well.' I through to Cushing the next year," to believe it. I'm sort of the same way; said,'Well, I don't know. . . ."' Roy he remembers. He grew up three miles there are things I'm skeptical about." says. "He cut a fork off a pinon tree out of Drumright, and used to ride His 'ability isn't one of them, pri- and told me, 'Take a hold of it like horseback over the place where the marily because of his success rate. He this-walk over thataway. . . .' I did, town now stands; the old Turkey can tell tale after tale of times when and that thing went down. It fright- Track Ranch trail went right through other drillers had given up and he ened me. . . . I mean it, it went his family's 200 acres. was able to come up with a sweet down. . . . Then I came back home, Though he did work some in the water well. "This is the thing that got a stick and went to it.'' area's boom-day oil fields, he went makes me believe in it," he says. "I He's been finding water ever since into the banking business in 1924, have been successful where others

OKLAHOMA TODAY have failed." sonian festival to explain this aspect His method is simple. First he gets of oil-field folk history. a forked stick. Once the stick goes He's much more comfortable just down for him (and he doesn't pretend hunting for water wells, though the to know how or why this happens-it term witching bothers him a little. just does), and he spends some time "The correct term for what I do is walking with the stick to locate the dowsing, I guess," he says, "but I just best spot for a well, his next step is call myself a doodler. You can doodle to find out how deep the people need for water or oil or a number of other to drill to hit that good water. For this, he uses a four-ounce glass He also has a hand-carved wooden medicine bottle suspended from a pendulum on a chain that he occa- length of chain. "When I first started sionally uses to find some little thing out," he says, "I was stumped on how that's been lost. "When to find depth. Then one George [George Carney, night I woke up at an Oklahoma State Uni- 2 a.m., and it all sort versity geographer, one of of came clear to me, the the Oklahomans who worked way things sometimes do:fc as a field researcher for the 'All things are attracted to Smithsonian project] was here, he themselves.' " Hence the bottle wanted to try me out-hid some of water. money out in the yard, and I found It's raining outside, and so he it. I just asked this doodler to show demonstrates his skill right in his liv- me where it was, and it did." ing room. He takes the forked stick and All this sounds a little like material walks toward the dining room. Smack Roy Smaltz. Photo by Mark Haynes for "That's Incredible," but Roy is in the middle of the dining-room floor, modest about his talent. He didn't that stick goes down. Then with the and people hauled up sweet water even charge for finding wells until gas chain and bottle he goes to work to with a rope and bucket.) got so expensive that he had to charge find out how deep the water lies. Roy also owns the equipment for a little just to break even. "I don't Dangling from his still hands, the finding buried oil pipelines-brass believe there's anything supernatural chain begins to circle, slowly at first and iron rods. "That's a real common about it," he says. "Could be-but if and then faster and faster, the bottle practice," he says. "Oil companies do there is I sure don't know anything riding at the end, for all the world like it all the time." He's also hunted for about that end of it. a parachute ride at a county fair. "I oil like the old-timers who "doodled" "I'll stay with saying it's a gift. God figure a foot of depth for each circle for oil, but he's careful not to bill him- has given everybody a talent of some it makes," he says, "and when it starts self as a doodlebugger. "I don't mess kind. Some people can write; some going faster and faster, I know I'm with that much," he says. "I leave can paint. Some can preach and some on the structure." (It's a good bet finding oil to the geologists." can teach. My talent for finding water there really is a stream of water run- Still, he knew old-time oil doodlers, is a gift like all those others." ning north and south right under our and he knows enough about their feet, since a well once stood next door, techniques that he went to the Smith-

The Saddlemaker - year ago last summer, also brought the skills and tools of dle styles (the San Joaquin, the Ore- .Glen Douglas ( "Bub") his trade-saddlemaking-to a little gon, the Will James, the Bronc . . .) L Warren left Oregon and white ex-grocery store that now houses and his order forms ask for informa- -came home to Cleveland, his business, the Franklin Saddle tion that allows him to build to fit. Oklahoma. Actually, Bub was born Shop. Saddlemaking is an exacting and just across the Osage County line in The majority of that business is time-consuming trade any time, but a place called Boston Pool, but since mail-order; his main draw is a reg- last summer Bub took on a project Boston Pool now lies under Lake Key- ular ad in The Western Horseman. that was to use up nearly a year of stone, Cleveland was as close to home He makes hand-tooled saddles in a his life and most of his money: The as he could get. variety of styles, from plain to fancy, Diamond Jubilee Saddle. Bub didn't come alone or empty- and he also fashions other gear, from Bub tells it this way: "Somewhere handed. He brought his wife, Dar- chaps to headstalls to running martin- in the first week in July, we were lene, and their two daughters. He gales. A catalog shows his basic sad- watching TV, and they kept promot-

AUTUMN 1982 THIRTY-ONE ing the Diamond Jubilee, the Dia- mond Jubilee-saying 'You're doin' fine, Oklahoma."' And I said, "OK. Let's build a saddle for the Diamond Jubilee." He admits he didn't know what he was getting intb. "It sort of grew into a monster," he says, shaking his head. "It just took over." The product of more than 1,000 hours of Bub Warren's time is no monster at all, but a beauty. Built along the lines of old-time saddles, it has a high back, slick forks and square skirts. "I didn't want it in a' new style," he says. "I'm a history buff, and I spent long hours doing research. I wanted to jog the memories of the Above. Bub Warren at his workbench. The stand to his left is made from- a barber's chair. Middle. Detail of the Diamond Jubilee Saddle, showing the Oklahoma state seal. Photos by Mark Havnes. Below. The Diamond Jubilee Saddle took Warren more than a year to complete. The saddle's outlines may be old- Photo bi~obVan Deventer. fashioned, but no cowboy ever rode a - saddle like this into town on payday. Every exposed area, from gullet to tapaderas, is fully carved, with Okla- homa symbols like the buffalo, scissor- tail flycatcher and oil derrick worked into the overall wild rose pattern. The saddle is loaded with silver conchas, including a 4-inch one of .the state seal and one 31,4 inches across of the Oklahoma flag-all made by Diablo Silver Co. of California. The back of the cantle carries the state motto, and the saddle horn a one-carat diamond. "The project just kept growing," Bub says. "I'd think for sure I was done, and then something else would come up." He'd already completed a silver-mounted headstall and martin- gale and ordered a pair of rawhide reins from a man in Idaho when he heard of a woman in Bartlesville who weaves saddle blankets. And so he contacted Kathleen McAdams, and she made a Diamond Jubilee blanket, complete with Oklahoma in one cor- ner and 75 in the other. Bub swore that that was the end, but then he got to thinking that the motifs in the saddle didn't adequately honor Oklahoma's Indians, and so he incorporated symbols of the Five Civ- ilized Tribes into a pair of matching saddle bags. Bub vows that the bags are the fin- ishing touch, and in fact the saddle, conservatively valued at $100,000, is now for sale. Bub says he's in no hurry to see it go. "Even though I did it myself," he says, "I can still look at it and see things I've never seen before."

THIRTY-TWO OKLAHOMA TODAY The Violin Maker

he first violin Bill Rohde made, he threw away. The second is still in use. "The girl who bought that violin plays in the Philharmonic and teaches violin," he says. "She took it through high school and college and sold it just recently for $1,000. She paid $75 for it. But you know, back when I first started out, $75 seemed like plenty to get for one." He started out back in 1958. "I had an uncle who lived in Denver who took up violin making as a hobby, and he got me interested," Bill says. "I've been going at it ever since." He came to violin making with a lifetime of experience with woodwork- ing tools. The son of Tulsa's first mayor after statehood, Bill worked as a crew chief for American Airlines for 29 years until his retirement at 62. That retirement has left him more time for making violins. He figures he's made 82 violins, 18 violas, six cellos and eight mandolins. The wood for the bodies of all but the cellos has come from one tree. "Fortu- nately," he says, "the uncle I men- tioned cut a maple tree up in south- ern Illinois 40 or 45 years ago. He got enough wood for 630-some violins out of that one tree. I still have a lot of it left-enough to see me through." Spruce for the tops of the violins comes from Colorado. "We cut some trees in a burned-over area," he says. "Fire had killed those trees in 1860, but there were charred snags still standing, and that's where we got our wood.'' Other materials he works with ar- rive from more exotic spots. He fash- ions bows for stringed instruments from a Brazilian wood called pernam- buco, which is dense and hard but also very flexible and will take a lot of bowing without breaking. Other parts of the bows are made of ivory Above. In his workshop Bill Rohde turns rough spruce and maple into shining violins, cellos. from Hong Kong and abalone shell. mandolins and violas. Below. Rohde makes bows for stringed instruments, as well as two The thumb grip is of lizard skin, and styles of mandolins. Photos by Mark Haynes.

AUTUMN 1982 TH IRTY-THREE the area above the grip is wound with ceiling, their finishes a limited rain- it's really not. You have a lot of sterling silver wire. The bows are bow of rich browns and golds. things you have to know, but when strung with horsehair taken from Si- The stages he goes through to get you get right down to it, it's like berian ponies. "In that cold climate," from rough maple lumber to gleaming making anything else." he says, "their manes and tails touch instrument seem intricate. For in- The wood from the maple his uncle the ground." stance, the backs and tops are made cut down so long ago is now serving In his workshop hang both the tools by drilling holes from two to four another generation. Bill's handing on and materials of his craft-thick hanks millimeters deep in precise patterns his craft to his son, whose very first of horsehair, like disembodied pony- and then carving to those depths. Yet violin was deemed good enough to tails; tools; molds for instruments' Bill insists that violin making isn't all keep. "He's varnishing his second one bodies. A double row of completed that hard. "People think making a now," Bill says, "and it looks like violins and violas hangs from the violin is a real project," he says, "but it's going to be fine, just fine."

The Ribbon Worker

n the main road through out into more geometric patterns of Meeker, in a house fronted her own design, done in vivid pink

with roses, , lives a woman and green and blue and red and pur- who is mistress of a rare ple and apricot. craft-the ribbon and applique work She uses both the ribbon work passed from generation to generation t done with moire ribbon) and the of women of the Sac and Fox, Pawnee applique work in taffeta to make and Otoe tribes. strips to decorate shawls, skirts, dance Shalah Rice Rowlen is the oldest of aprons and blankets. She also uses 10 children of a Sac and Fox and the strips to create contemporary Pottawatomi father and a Pawnee and fashions, from pantsuits to cocktail Otoe mother. "There's French blood dresses. on my father's side and Spanish on Her work has been seen at gallery my mother's," Shalah says, "so we're showings and 'crafts fairs throughout really mixed up." Like many other the country. She is also listed in a members of her family, Shalah's al- brochure of Indian craftspeople put ways had an artistic .flair: "In high out by the U.S. Department of the school I drew cartoons for school Interior. "They must have sent it all papers and in study hall when I should over," Shalah says, "because I've been getting mail from Belgium, Germany, have been studying." Shalah Rowlen. Photo by Jlm Argo. She also traveled the "powwow cir- France, Bulgaria. . ." cuit" with her family, and in 1945 puckered-but the more I tried it, the Shalah's work is bought by whites was the first girl to win the world better it looked. . . . My aunt still uses who appreciate its beauty-and used championship in traditional dancing the traditional earth colors-green by tribal members for ceremonial pur- at the American Indian Exposition and black, orange and brown. To me, poses. It decorates a dress for a cock- in Anadarko. She dreamed of art those colors just don't stand out, but tail party, but it also graces dance cos- school, but it was beyond her means, maybe that's just because I like bright tumes and blankets used in the rites and so she went to Tulsa and business colors." of the Native American Church. school instead. According to Shalah, the tradition Her sister Dolores, who, like all Those early dreams came back to of ribbon work and applique dates five of Shalah's sisters also does the her 18 years ago when her father from the time when white traders first traditional work, says, "Our father al- asked her. to use the traditional tribal brought the woodland tribes of the ways told us that we had to live in crafts to make a gift for a friend and Midwest ribbons and calico. The two worlds. . . . That we should make repair some dance costumes. women modified earlier beadwork our way in the white world the best Though she was familiar with the floral patterns to make use of the new we could, but that we should never work, she had never tried it. "I went materials. forget that we are Indian, never for- to a Sac and Fox aunt out in the Though Shalah still works with the get our people." country," she says, "and she helped traditional colors and patterns, using When you hold the bright strips of me to work on dance aprons and an both Sac and Fox patterns and ones Shalah's creations in your hands, they Indian shirt. . . . from other tribes such as the Pawnee, seem almost rainbows between the "My first piece was very ugly-all Otoe and Osage, she has also branched worlds.

THIRTY-FOUR OKLAHOMA TODAY R~ght.Two brllllantly colored samples of Shalah's work, a yellow-fringed shawl bordered with ribbon work and a blanket trimmed w~th appliqued taffeta stnps. Her brother, Joe Rce, also went to Washington -as a beadworker, featherworker and slnger Above. Shalah's brother-ln-law, Rlchmond Harjo, a full-blood Seminole, In one of her handmade nbbon shlrts Photos by Jlm Argo

AUTUMN 1982 Have you seen the newly published mond Jubilee Commission. The sculpture was. inspired by a "Oklahoma Horse Industry Direc- Although you won't find any teepees ballet of the same name in which four tory"? This statewide directory, the in the area, some of the homes in- of the five internationally known Okla- first ever, was produced by the State cluded in the 16th Heritage Hills homa ballerinas-Yvonne Chouteau, Department of Agriculture. Listing House Tour are pre-statehood. The Rosella Hightower, Marjorie Tallchief everything from western artists to area, which is on the National Register and Moscelyne Larkin-performed. saddle shops and horse farms, the of Historic Places, was the first His- Maria Tallchief had retired before its booklet should prove invaluable. Cop- torical Preservation District in Okla- premiere performance in 1967. ies can be ordered for $3.95 from P.O. homa City. The homes were built Our exciting Diamond Jubilee year Box 14346, Oklahoma City, OK 73113. between 1900 and 1935 and are located will reach its peak with activities Shalah Rowlen, whom you will read just north of downtown Oklahoma throughout the state between now and about in this issue, demonstrated her City. Nov. 16. On that day, a reenactment Sac and Fox ribbon work at the Smith- Once the residences of prominent of the original statehood day in 1907 sonian Institution's Festival of Ameri- Oklahoma City business leaders, the will take place in Guthrie, the state's can Folklife last summer. homes have been lovingly restored first capital. The "wedding" of Miss Mrs. Rowlen, who had the chance and renovated by the present owners. Indian Territory and Mr. Oklahoma to visit Washington for the first time Five private homes and the Overholser is one of the events to be repeated. since she worked there as a young Mansion are included in this year's Another special event will be the secretary in the late '40s, said she tour from noon to 5:30 p.m. Oct. 17. Diamond Jubilee show on Nov. 13 at thoroughly enjoyed meeting all the Tickets are $5, and $3 for children. the Myriad in Oklahoma City. Harry people-Oklahomans and "foreigners" Recently installed street lights, James' Orchestra, the Oklahoma Sym- alike. authentic to the period, and other phony and the OU and OSU bands "I think what surprised me the most neighborhood improvement projects will provide the music along with a was the image people back there still have been funded by the house tour. string of well-known performers. have of Indians," she says. "So many Vintage automobiles, including a And while they last-Oklahoma iust couldn't believe that I live in a Rolls Royce, also will be on display Today will send you one Diamond nice, modern house, for instance-or with the homes this year. Sack lunches Jubilee issue free with an order of that none of us in Oklahoma live on will be on sale to enjoy at Ham Park. four or more subscriptions. It's hard reservations." It sounds like a fun way to spend to believe, but the holiday season is Of course, reservation lands had a Sunday afternoon. just around the corner, and you can't already been parceled out to indi- A sculpture honoring Oklahoma's beat a gift subscription to Oklahoma vidual tribal members when Okla- famed Indian ballerinas will be un- Today. And the Diamond Jubilee is- homa became a state 75 years ago. veiled during the Diamond Jubilee sue could make a special gift for some- And I suppose every profession and celebration in Tulsa Nov. 16. one else on your list. No worries about trade in the state have members who Entitled "Four Moons," the 10-foot sizes, colors or fits, and we take care are American Indians. bronze was created by Tulsa artist of the mailing-four times a year- Be sure to visit Oklahoma's exhibit Jay O'Meilia and cast at Turkey including a beautiful Christmas card from the folklife festival at both the Track Bronze Inc., a Tulsa foundry. that announces your gift. Oklahoma City and Tulsa state fairs. It will stand next to the Performing The exhibit is sponsored by the Dia- Arts Center on the green.

WINDOW ON THE PAST: HIS- TORIC PLACES IN OKLAHOMA by Kent Ruth and Jim Argo; Western Heritage Press; $5.95 ( paperback). Travel writer Kent Ruth and photog- rapher Jim 'Argo have collaborated on this extensive revision of Ruth's 1974 book, which was also titled Win- dow on the Past. As the subtitle an- nounces, this is a listing of spots im- portant to Oklahoma's history, ar- ranged county by county, from Bitting S~rinesMill in Adair Countv to ~imp-Supply in woodward ~o&~ty. A few spots have been dropped, but many more have been added, The home of the John Hefner family is one of five privatti~~UWI lt;.d vintage residences' raising the number of places featured that will open their doors to the public during Oklahoma City's 16th Heritage Hills House from 73 to an even hundred. Argo's Tour Oct. 17. Photo by Fred Marvel. contribution is new photographs of all

THIRTY-SIX 100; for his part, Ruth gives each site In an easy, anecdotal style, he traces the most beautiful sky in the world, a mini-biography, full of reasons for the history of the land and how it so blue in daytime and you can see travelers to stop by. became Oklahoma County-from the the stars there at night. Some of the places, such as Bartles- report of the first American tourist Oklahoma Today brings back many ville's Nellie Johnstone No. 1 and in 1822, through territorial days to memories for me. Oklahoma will al- Fort Sill, are well-known roadside at- what Blackburn calls "The Greatest ways be home. tractions. Others, like Ellis County's Horse Race" - the Run of 1889. In 1928, I moved from Oklahoma Davison Silo and Edwards Store near The growth of the county and its and have lived in California for 52 Red Oak in Latimer County, are hid- towns is all here: statehood, the gain- years. I started school in Colony, den away in the state's hills and ing of the capital, civic boosterism and home of Seger Indian Reservation. prairies-in Ruth's words, "historic- chicanery, oil boom, Depression, post- From there I went to high school in ally significant place [s] to visit on war plenty and postwar problems. Sayre. one's backroad ramblings over Okla- Woven in are stories of the men and Your Diamond Jubilee issue was homa.'' women who made it all happen. great as the article on Elk City took It's the illustrations that first draw me back home again. There is some- you in-a photographic record of the thing about Oklahoma that no other OKLAHOMA: FOOT-LOOSE AND county's coming of age. Some of them state has. I think it is the hospitality FANCY-FREE by Angie Debo; are bound to cause nostalgia-Belle and warmness of the people who live Greenwood Press; $27.50. In 1949, Isle Park, the Baum Building, the there or ever came from there. Okla- when historian Angie Debo set out Criterion, the downtown Brown's. homa, I love you-and your maga- .in this book to "interpret Oklahoma" Especially impressive are David Fitz- zine. I'm renewing my subscription. under the auspices of the Rockefeller gerald's color portraits of the county, Mable Ward Schmidt Foundation, Oklahoma had already from abandoned farmsteads and the Norco, CA traveled a long and sometimes rough Luther bus station to the Capitol road from statehood. Today we are rotunda and the present-day City sky- celebrating out Diamond Jubilee. line. His photographs show just how That short note you wrote about I Just in time for that jubilee, Green- close the weave of new and old, and of the good ole days in Oklahoma sure wood Press is presenting an exact city and country, still is in Oklahoma tugged my heart strings. reprint of the 1949 edition, down to County. You talk about your good times, the original preface and photographs. why I can remember back when I When the book first appeared, it was was a page in the State Senate, when hailed as a gifted evocation of the Roy J. Turner was governor. I knew "spirit of the place," from why Okla- Johnston Murray ( who later became homa looked the way it did to why governor) when he worked in the Oklahomans felt the way they did Agriculture Dept. in the State Capitol about politics, oil money and the Editor: and used to do magic tricks for the weather. I enjoyed 20 of the best years of my pages. Reading or re-reading the book to- life as landscape architect at the Uni- I still remember that marvelous day day is a double-edged pleasure. Dr. versity of Oklahoma. All these years when I was privileged to meet and Debo's prose is a joy to read, and her were under the leadership of Dr. chat with "Alfalfa" Bill Murray, his affection still rings true; she makes George L. Cross. father, who was also governor. Oklahoma, in all its hardships, suc- During this tenure I had the pleas- Now, are you ready for this!! When cesses and follies, live. ure of serving each governor of the I went to OU years later, I was the At the same time, the book is a state on some special project. Being very first mascot, yes, "Little Red" snapshot of a time now long gone. the only professionally trained land- at OU-talk about your memories. Reading the late-'40s facts and figures scape architect on a state payroll, I Mike Dymond and looking into the late-'40s Okla- was asked to assist with the develop- Crestline, CA homa faces in the photographs, the ment of many projects. The most reader is gripped by a mixture of pride memorable one was the Oklahoma in what we'd survived and accomplish- Exhibit at the New York World's Fair ed by 1949 and have survived and in 1964-65 for Gov. Henry Bellmon. It was by good fortune that I saw accomplished since, and a pang at At that time there were only three your magnificent Diamond Jubilee is- what has been changed and lost along landscape architects as members of sue. It was loaned to me by a friend, the way. ASLA in Oklahoma, and I enlisted a former Oklahoman, who knew of the aid of the other two on this project. my interest in the state to which my Today, the membership has grown family moved in 1905 (Muskogee, HEART OF THE PROMISED to approximately 50, and the state Indian Terr.), and was my residence LAND: OKLAHOMA COUNTY, has approved professional registration. for the succeeding 25 years. AN ILLUSTRATED HISTORY by As a pioneer in the field in Oklahoma Though I manage to keep in touch Bob L. Blackburn; Windsor Publica- I look with pride on the total growth with my alma mater, the university tions; $24.95. Today Oklahoma Coun- of the state and all that it has meant at Norman, it was an especial treat ty sometimes seems like one big city, to me as a person and as a profes- and delight to have in one volume with fringes and pockets of country- sional. so much that I would like to know side. Bob Blackburn of the Oklahoma Robert H. Rucker of the state's progress. Historical Society takes us back to College Station, TX When I receive my own Diamond "before the beginningy'-to the time Jubilee issue, it will take its deserved when the crosstimbers and the prairie place among my cherished mementos. stood empty except for the wildlife Every season I look forward to re- James G. Haizlip and the Indians who hunted them. ceiving your magazine. Oklqhoma has Pacific Palisades, CA

AUTUMN 1982 THIRTY-SEVEN

- ---d INDIAN EVENTS 4-12 National Finals Rodeo, Myriad, Okla City 16-18 Sunbelt Cutting Horse Futurity & Sale. September Fairgrounds, Okla City 3-5 Ottawa Pow Wow, Quapaw 3-6 Cherokee Natl Holiday, Cherokee Natl FAIRS & FESTIVALS Complex, Tahlequah September October 3-4 Frontier Days, Cache 9-10 Kiowa Blackleggings Ceremony, Indian City 4-6 Arts Festival '82, South Okla City Jr. College. U.S.A., Anadarko Okla City Chili and Bluegrass. Main Mall, Tulsa ART EXHIBITS Festifall, ~erryark,Okla City September Cattle Trails Festival & Art Show. Elk City 1-30 Kiowa Art Exhibit, The Galleria, Norman Cherokee Strip Celebration, Perry 1-30 Okla Indian Artists Exhibition, Summer Arts Festival. Chandler Okla Art Center, Okla City State Fair of Oklahoma, Okla City 5-0ct 9 "From Generation to Generation: The Plains October Apache Way," Public Library, Elk City 1-10 Tulsa State Fair, Expo Square. Tulsa 11 Weatherford Art Show, Means Park, 2 Czech Festival, Yukon Weatherford 9-10 Central Okla Arts & Crafts Show. 12-0ct 3 Art Annual 111, Okla Art Center, Okla City Mabee Center. Tulsa 12-0ct 5 Richard Bivens, Bob Barker & Nancy Cramer, Quilt Show 1982, CSU, Edmond Arts Place 11, Okla City Oktoberfest, West Bank Park. Tulsa 12-0ct 31 "Of Time & Place: American Figurative Art Sorghum Day, Wewoka From the Corcoran Gallery," Philbrook, Tulsa November October 5-6 Watonga Cheese Festival. 1-31 All Tribes Sculpture Exhibit, Fairgrounds, Watonga The Galleria, Norman 13-14 Central Okla Arts & Crafts Show, 17-Nov 20 "From Generation to Generation: Myriad, Okla City The Plains Apache Way," Museum of the Great Plains, Lawton December 17-Jan 9 "Impressionism & the Modern Vision," 4-5 Central Okla Arts & Crafts Okla Art Center, Okla City Show, Expo Center, Shawnee November MUSIC/DANCE 13-14 Eggshell Art Exhibit, Holiday Inn West, September Okla City 12 Lucille Gruber, Chamber Orchestra. 19-Jan 22 "Earth Show," The Galleria, Norman Christ the King, Okla City 21-Jan 9 Art of South Italy, Philbrook, Tulsa 19 "Paris in the Fall," Chamber Orchestra. December Christ the King, Okla City 5-Jan 8 "From Generation to Generation: 19 Symphony at Sunset, The Plains Apache Way," Plains Indian & Southern Hills Country Club. Tulsa Pioneer Historical Foundation, Woodward 26 Sung Ju Lee, Chamber Orchestra. 12-Jan 4 Charles Sanderson, Arts Place 11, Okla City Christ the King, Okla City RODEOS & HORSE EVENTS October 1 "Rhapsody in Gershwin," Pops Concert. September Okla City 3-6 Oklahoma State Prison Rodeo, McAlester Stravinsky Tribute, Tulsa Ballet, Tulsa 4-6 RCA Rodeo of Champions, Elk City Okla Symphony, Luis Herrera conducting. 9-11 Great Plains Rodeo, Altus Okla City 18 Hopes & Dreams Futurity, Philharmonic, Joel Lazar conducting, Tulsa Blue Ribbon Downs, Sallisaw Okla Symphony, Jorge Federico Osorio, October Pianist, OkIa City 9 Blue Ribbon Breeders Futurity, "Pop Goes the Country," Dottie West. Blue Ribbon Downs, Sallisaw Pops Concert, Okla City 9-10 World's Richest Roping & Western Art Show, Cleveland Orchestra w/Okla Symphony, Bushyhead Okla City 13-17 Grand Natl Morgan Horse Show, Opera Gala, Cimarron Circuit Opera Co, Fairgrounds, Okla City 1st Presbyterian, Norman 23 Heritage Place Futurity, Blue Ribbon Downs, "Dracula," Ballet Oklahoma, Sallisaw Civic Center, Okla City November "I1 Trovatore," Tulsa Opera, Tulsa 1-7 World Championship Appaloosa Show, "Hansel & Gretel," Cimarron Circuit Opera CO, Fairgrounds. Okla City 1st Christian, Midwest City 13 ~hebYesterStallion ~uturity, Blue Ribbon Downs, Sallisaw November 11 Philharmonic, Leonard Rose, Cello, Tulsa 15-20 World Championship Quarter Horse Show, 12/14 "Diamond Jubilee," Tulsa Ballet, Tulsa Fairgrounds. Okla City 13 Ella Fitzgerald, Pops Concert, Tulsa December 21/23 Okla Symphony, Joel Levin conducting, 3-5 Beauty & the Beast, Myriad, Okla City Okla City

THIRTY-EIGHT OKLAHOMA TODAY 26 Ella Fitzgerald, Pops Concert, Okla City 28 Christmas Concert on the Ice, Williams Center, Tulsa 30-31 "Con-Amore" & "Dracula," Ballet Oklahoma, Civic Center, Okla City December 4 Gordon Macrae, Pops Concert, Tulsa 4 "The Nutcracker," Ballet Oklahoma, Alva 5/7 Okla Symphony, Jorge Mester conducting, Okla City 9 Philharmonic, Irene Gubrud, Soprano, Tulsa 11 "An Irving Berlin Evening," Pops Concert, Okla City 11 "Rigoletto," Cimarron Circuit Opera Co, Okla Museum of Art, Okla City A fancydress ball in Guthrie's Masonic Temple w~lltop off the 11-12 "The Nutcracker," Ballet Oklahoma, Lawton erstwhile capitol's Statehood Day celebration Nov. 16. 17-19 "The Nutcracker," Ballet Oklahoma, Photo by Fred Marvel. Civic Center, Okla City 22-23, .'The Nutcracker," Tulsa Ballet, Tulsa 26-29 October 2-3 3d Annual International Volksmarch. Ft. Sill DRAMA 17 Heritage Hills Home Tour. Okla City September 23-24 "Gems of the Earth." Expo Square. Tulsa 1-11 "Life With Father," Gaslight Theatre, Tulsa November 2-19 "Deathtrap," Jewel Box Theatre, Okla City 4-7 Will Rogers Days. Claremore 3-12 "On Golden Pond," Theatre Tulsa, Tulsa 13 Myriad Extravaganza. Diamond Jubilee 22-0ct 24 "The Rainmaker," Gaslight Theatre, Tulsa Celebration, Okla City 24-28 "Mouse Trap," Altus On-Stage, Altus 16 Statehood Day Celebration. Guthrie 24-0ct 2 "Grease," OU, Norman 24-0ct 3 "Looking for an Angel," December Community Playhouse, Broken Arrow 2-4, 9-11, Boare's Head Feast. NEOSU. Tahlequah 16-18 October 18 Christmas Tree Lighting. Model Park. Tulsa 6-16 "1776," Shawnee Little Theatre, Shawnee 13-17 "To Be Young, Gifted & Black," HUNTING SEASONS Studio Theater, OU, Norman Birds 14-31 "The Desk Set," Jewel Box Theatre, Okla City Sept l-Oct 15 Dove 15-30 "Rain," American Theatre Co, Tulsa Sept 18-26 Teal 22-24 "The American Indian Extravaganza," Oct 10-Mar 4 Crow American Indian Theatre, Tulsa Nov 6-14 Prairie Chicken 22-30 "Elephant Man," OU, Norman Nov 6-Dec 12 Wild Turkey 22-31 "An Inspector Calls," Theatre Tulsa, Tulsa Nov 20-Feb 16 Quail 27-Nov 28 "Movie Crazes," Gaslight Theatre. Tulsa Dec 1-31 Pheasant November Game 10-20 "First Monday in October," Oct l-Mar 1 Cottontail. Swamp & Jack Rabbit Shawnee Little Theatre, Shawnee Oct 16-Dec 31 Deer 19-28 "A Midsummer Night's Dream." Sept l-Jan 1 Squirrel Community Playhouse, Broken Arrow December Dr. Claude B. Knight, left, and Harry Hembree feed cane into l-Jan 9 "Diamond Studs,'' Gaslight Theatre, Tulsa an old-time sorghum press during Wewoka's Sorghum Day 2-19 "Something's Afoot," Jewel Box Theatre, (Oct. 23 this year). Photo hv Fred Marvel. Okla City 3-11 An Evening of Ballet, Rupel J. Jones Theater. OU, Norman 3-12 "Prisoner of Second Avenue," Theatre Tulsa, Tulsa 3-24 "A Christmas Carol," American Theatre Co, Tulsa 8-12 "Black Elk Speaks," American Indian Theatre, Tulsa 8-12 "The Inspector General," Studio Theater, OU. Norman SPECIAL EVENTS September 6 Great Raft Race, Sand Springs/Tulsa 10-12 Roy Clark Golf Tournament, Cedar Ridge Country Club, Tulsa 12 Riverside Fall Run, Model Park, Tulsa

AUTUMN 1982