called windows) was like a building a --in this case a rip Introduction triangle with arced sides, much sled. The first attempt led to I milled quite a few more stronger than the knife edges of another one with a hands free triangles for last years earlier attempts, and with some hold down. It ended up snowflake ornament than I wiggle room for adjusting the working pretty well, but it needed, so, hating to waste final shape. It also allowed for would take up too much space and work I started playing some variations beyond the to show here, so I'll just show it around with using them to make basic suggested globe that I in use in Fig01, and let you go another style of ornament. I really liked. And I think the to my web site for an e-article had in mind some variant on an method has a high "how did he on how to make it. Since the Inside/Outside technique. But, do that" component. On the triangles are fairly short (I as triangles aren't the same debit side, there are many usually rip a stick long enough rotated 180 degrees, I had a opportunities for small errors to for two segments, about16-1/2”) little trouble working it out. I gang up on you, so if you’re on it's easily within the limits for a tried turning a recess and then the obsessive compulsive side dedicated rip sled. The sled has rotating the triangles 120 this procedure may drive you an adjustable (60 degree degrees, but that yielded a crazy. But I think they’re on one side, 90 degree on the lopsided opening. Next I tried a Ornaments, not art, and are other (so that it can rip therming variation--attaching perfectly fine. diamonds as well as triangles) the flats of the triangles to a and parallelism to the blade can spindle with a hexagonal cross This article will show how to be set using the table 's section mounted between use this technique to make the 6 standard rip fence rather than centers on the lathe. This sort Window Ornament. It starts trial and error. As when ripping of worked, but I didn't really with alternate ways to mill it's critical to keep the bed of like it. The webs between the suitable triangles, depending on the sled flat, there's a brace on openings were too thin with what equipment you have or the left side. There's a height knife edges so it was nearly like to use. Then it will discuss adjustable hold down to keep impossible to get evenly shaped how to do the first and second hands well away from the blade. openings as even a tiny error in Inside turnings, followed by mounting led to obviously assembly and then the third and different sizes. final Outside turning. Last shown will be some variations I resigned my self to trying two on the design you can try after "inside" turning steps, 120 you master the basic ornament. degrees apart. I say resigned, because that meant doing two Triangles nearly identical inside turnings. I wasn't entirely happy with the But after I tried the technique it way I ripped the triangles on the grew on me. The resulting web for the snowflake between the openings (hereafter ornament. So of course I tried bench. Fig03 shows one solution to holding the triangle. A base slightly longer than the triangle has two adjacent triangles glued on it and a stop block on one end. If you’re planing, the stop block goes away from you, if sanding the stop block goes towards you. The base is held in a , and

the triangle to be planed is Fig02 Ripping triangles on the placed between the triangles of band saw with a 60° angled face the base. (or sand) one fence. band sawn surface, then rotate the triangle so that the other Start with a board about 16" band sawn surface can be long and 1-1/4" or so thick. planed. Fig01 Ripping triangles on the Home Depot has 5/4 that's table saw with ripping sled. good for practice. You may You can also rip the triangles on want to move up to or a . A really wide blade some other once helps. Since my bandsaw has a you've practiced the procedure, 1" blade, I can use the rip fence as maple looks better, holds attachment shown in Fig02 and more detail, and allows for still expect to get straight cuts thinner finials. Plane or joint a without worrying about blade straight edge on the board. Rip the first cut on a board with the deflection. The fence has a 60 degree angle face with a small straight edge against the small flat at the bottom of the fence. (1/8" or so) flat at the bottom of Fig03 The setup to hand plane the the angled face. A thin sheet of Then flip the board over, so that band sawn surface of the triangles plastic is fastened to the bottom the now beveled edge of the with a bench jig. of the fence to cover up the board is against the 60 degree blade slot in the table. I found face of the fence and rip again. If you are as fond of blue tape that it worked better if the fence Flip the board each time and rip and glue as I am you can use the was downhill of the blade. I until you run out of board. solution shown in Fig04. Two tried it uphill, but having to triangles are temporarily push the stock up against the My 1" bandsaw blade cuts fastened directly to the fence tended to bind the kerf straight, but it certainly doesn't in front of a stop around the blade. My 60 degree leave a glue ready surface--it block. Put blue or other fence is held on the saw's fence will have to be planed smooth. extended release masking tape with blue tape and CA glue, but There are several ways you on your workbench and both of you could also use screws. could do this depending on your the triangles. Then fasten the Adjust the fence so that the 60 tools. If all you have is hand down using CA glue. If your degree face if extended to the planes or a belt sander than you bench doesn't have stop blocks bottom intersects the side of the can use them--but it's rather you could glue down a kerf. difficult to plane a triangle with temporary one in the same the pointy side down on a fashion. Plane the triangles with a hand plane or belt sander remove just enough to smooth in the same fashion. the surface. Be sure to stand to the side of the planer and don't bend over to watch--there's at least a theoretical chance of the triangle being kicked back and out of the planer. After the first surface has been planed, transfer the triangle to the shimmed side to plane the Fig04 The setup to hand plane the second band sawn surface. You band sawn surface of the triangles should be able to run two with two matching triangles temporarily attached to the triangles through the planer at workbench. once (one for the first surface and one for the second) as the If you have a power planer you triangles are far enough apart to Fig06 Power planing the triangles can use a sled to plane the not share an anti-kickback pawl. in a planer. Be sure to stand triangles. Start with a board safely to the side in case of kick- slightly longer than your back. triangles and wide enough to fit four triangles side by side. After you've planed the surfaces Joint the board flat if it isn't you can cross cut them to already, then run it through the length. I suggest starting with a planer so that both surfaces are length of 8", then adjusting that parallel. Glue 4 triangles to the for the design you adopt. Using board so that the vertexes of the a table saw sled with a stop pairs meet, then glue a stop block will yield uniform lengths block on one end. Add a shim and make the next steps easier. with about 1/16" thickness An optional step, which will (matt board, plastic etc) to one make centering the bundles of face of one of the triangle pairs. triangles easier for all three This will let you plane both turnings, is to nick the corners band sawn surfaces without of the triangles as in Fig07. It's readjusting the planer height. beneficial to have the nicks The completed planer sled is uniform in size so I'm using a shown in Fig05. To use the leather tool (from another life?) sled, place a triangle in the for rounding the edge of leather. deeper channel against the stop Veritas makes a similar tool for block. Check to make sure the Fig05 Planer sled for planing the wood. Fig08 shows the band sawn triangles in a power difference between nicked (on triangle doesn't rock side to planer. side. Run the sled through the the left) and un-nicked (on the planer with the stop block end right) bundles of triangles. The going through last as in Fig06. nicked version should virtually The first time you'll have to center itself on a cup center. gradually sneak up on the thickness setting until you the design. Fig09 shows the do the math: My triangles are wrapped bundle. 1-1/8” on a side. I wanted a 1/8” web. My minimum diameter is the triangle side plus the web, or 1-1/8” + 1/8” = 1- 1/4. You can also sketch it out on a triangle as in Drawing1. Draw a center line part way on one face. Then draw the

thickness of web you want Fig07 Nicking the corners of the triangles to make centering of the Fig09 The triangles taped into a centered on the center line. bundles easier. bundle for the first turning. Measure the distance from the side of the face to the web line There are lots of opportunities across the center line. Double for small errors to gang up on that measurement for your you in a Murphy’s Law fashion minimum diameter. in this design. To minimize them where you can, number the triangles clockwise and put an indicator mark on the outside Fig08 The bundle on the left has face as in Fig10. This will let nicked corners and the bundle on the right does not. It would be you keep triangles adjacent in easier to center the left bundle on the first step adjacent in the a cup center. remaining ones, and rotate each piece the same way.

First Turning Drawing1 Figuring out the The six triangles have to be minimum diameter you can turn to assembled, or wrapped, into a with as little math as possible. hexagonal bundle for the first turning. Begin by snapping a Mount a safety drive (cup couple of strong rubber bands center) in the headstock of your around the bundle as this will lathe and a cup center in the help hold them in position while tailstock. Using these to mount the bundle holds each piece you wrap them more securely. Use Filament Tape (also known mechanically (whereas a spur as strapping tape) to start Fig10 After numbering and center might only contact two wrapping around the bundle at placing orientation marks on the triangles at the headstock) so one end. Take a turn of tape triangles. your face is not entirely at the with moderate tension and mercy of the filament tape. Use adjust the fit of the triangles. Determine the minimum a pencil to indicate the planned Then take another turn or two at diameter you can turn your extent of the turned design as in high tension. Repeat for the design to. This depends on the Fig11. For the photos I’m other end, and somewhere a size of the triangles and the turning a cove 2” wide that little off center so that the width of the web between the starts about 1-1/8” from the bundle is well secured, but not windows you want (be generous tailstock end. taped where you’ll be turning for your first effort). You can will be as in the top of Fig16. Then add tape at the bottom and middle of the bundle as in Fig17, then remove the top rubber band and tape the top as in Fig18. Fig13 Refining the surface with a Fig11 The bundle of triangles cove tool used as a shear scraper. mounted between cup centers for the first turning. The intended After you’ve turned the cove, extents of the cove have been sand it with progressively finer marked with pencil. . Then apply a coat of Turn on the lathe at a moderate friction polish (I used linseed speed (maybe a little slower oil/shellac/alcohol in equal than you usually would turn proportions) or sanding sealer. Apply finish only to the cove . something of this diameter) and shape the cove with a spindle Fig14 shows the cove after gouge, occasionally measuring sanding and applying finish. Fig15 The bundle after turning to make sure you don’t cut each triangle 120° clockwise. deeper than the minimum diameter. Fig12 shows the result at this point. Whether because of the slower speed, the necessary overhang from the tool rest, or lack of practice, I wasn’t happy with the smoothness of my cove, so I Fig14 The cover after sanding and cleaned it up with a cove tool as finishing. Don’t get finish on the in Fig13. This cove tool is unturned triangle faces as you’ll simply a ¼” diameter HSS want glue to stick there. Fig16 The bundle rubber banded blank sharpened at a 45° angle. together for taping. Don’t put a It works as a shear scraper, and Second Turning rubber band over the cove area as lets me even out the cove whilst Remove the bundle from the it will pull the triangles out of leaving a nice surface. lathe and then remove the tape alignment from the bundle. Turn each triangle piece 120° clockwise. The marks on the ends of the triangles should now look like Fig15. Snap rubber bands around the bundle to hold it together for taping. Do not place the rubber bands over the cove as in the bottom of Fig16, Fig12 After turning the cove with a as this will pull the pieces out of spindle gouge. alignment. Instead put one rubber band where the top tape and marking the cove extents with pencil.

Turn on the lathe at a moderate speed. Although, there is a ghost image, it tends to be confusing as in Fig20 and unreliable. If you try and caliper the depth with the lathe

on you will find it to be a very uncomfortable experience. That Fig21 Checking the cove depth leaves turning the lathe off to with the lathe off. The red arrow Fig17 After taping at the bottom check. As you get near to the indicates where to look to see how and middle of the bundle with a finished width and depth of the much web thickness is left. rubber band remaining at the top. cove, turn the lathe off as in Fig21. Check the thickness of Sand the cove and apply friction the web where indicated by the polish only to the cove as you big red arrow, and make sure did for the first turning. The the edges of the cove meet at result is shown in Fig22. the same point. The edge indicated by the smaller blue arrow, where the curved faces of the web meet, is useful for Fig18 After removing the top judging if your coves (or other rubber band and adding the last designs) match. When looking band of tape. straight down at this edge it Fig22 After finishing the second should appear straight and right Mount the bundle between turning. in the middle of the web. centers again. Use a pencil to mark on the faces of the Assembly triangles where the first cove If you somehow managed to started as in Fig19. This will end up with absolutely perfect make it easier to see the extents miters you could go ahead and of the cove, and the better job spread some glue and bundle you do matching the coves the the triangles up but those of us more you will like the finished that are mortal are better off ornament. gluing in stages. Separate

triangles 1-3 from triangles 4-6. If you have Irwin Quick Clamps Fig20 The ghost image is too (or anything similar) you can confusing to be reliable for depth glue up with just clamps. Take determination. triangles 1 and 2 and arrange them clockwise with the web towards the rim of the clock. Spread some glue (ordinary Fig19 The bundle after is the best choice) on remounting between cup centers one mating surface and then line the triangles up. Pay should bear on the flat of attention to lining up the triangle 1. window openings and having the inner triangle vertexes match. Use three Quick Clamps as Fig23 to the triangles together. The middle of the clamps pads should be at the triangle vertexes. Fig24 Solving the five hand problem when using C-Clamps by using rubber banded cauls and a vise.

Fig26 Clamping triangle 3 to the already glued triangles 1 & 2 with Irwin clamps.

If you are using C-clamps Fig23 Clamping together triangles you’ll need to make 6 more 1 & 2 with Irwin clamps. cauls (or give up and order some Quick Clamps). Cut a P If you don’t have Irwin Quick shape that’s a rectangle with an Clamps, you can use C clamps equilateral triangle on half of with a bit of fussiness and the one long side out of ¾” aid of some cauls. Use your Fig25 Clamping together two . Cut a rubber band band saw to cut out some 60° triangles with C-clamps. slot lengthwise in the plain long notch cauls out of ¾” plywood. rectangular face. Assemble Use the band saw to cut a notch Which ever clamping procedure pairs of a V notch and the new for a rubber band in the face you used, repeat for triangles 4 P cauls with rubber bands. opposite the V opening. You’ll & 5. need 12 cauls. Divide them up Clamp a C-Clamp in your vise. into pairs with a rubber band After the glue has had a chance Arrange and spread glue on holding each pair together. to cure remove the clamps. triangle 3 as above. Put pairs of Add triangle 3 to the 1 & 2 pair rubber banded cauls on the Clamp a C-clamp open side up so that the numbers continue to assembly. The V notch caul in your vise. Spread glue and be clockwise with the webs goes on the vertex of triangle 3. assemble triangles as described towards the clock rim. Spread The P caul nestles around the for the Irwin clamps. Slip three glue on one of the mating intersection of triangles 1 and 2. pairs of V notched cauls around surfaces and line up triangle 3 Tighten the C-clamp in the vise the assembly then hold the with triangle 2. around one of the caul pairs, assembly in one hand and then add the other two C- tighten the vise held C-clamp If you have Irwin clamps clamp clamps. The result is seen in with the other. The result is the assembly with 3 Irwin Fig27. shown in Fig24. While the first clamps as in Fig26. The vertex C-clamp is still in the vise you of triangle 3 should be slightly can add two more C-clamps inboard of the middle of the across the other two pairs of clamp pad. The other clamp cauls as in Fig 25. meet the minimum safe length for Turn the ornament blank round, using a . as in Fig31, with a spindle roughing gouge. Now start Spread wood glue on the mating rounding over the top of the surface of one of the halves and globe with a spindle gouge. then clamp the halves together You should be able to follow as in Fig29. Any kind of clamp the ghost image, as in Fig32, for will do without cauls. Wait for much of the globe, with Fig27 Clamping a third triangle to the glue to cure and then occasional stopping of the lathe an already glued up pair with C- remove the clamps. to double check. Round over clamps and cauls. most of the globe as in Fig33, leaving the top finial area a little Repeat to glue triangle 6 to thick. triangles 4 & 5. Let the glue cure, then remove the clamps.

Now flatten the faces of the two half ornaments to be joined together. You could use a disc sander, plane, belt sander, etc. You could also do the first two Fig29 Clamping the ornament turnings for two ornaments at halves together. Fig31 After turning the ornament once end to end to get more blank round. than the minimum safe distance recommended for a jointer. If Third Turning you choose the latter, Fig28 The photos will follow shows a modified push block mounting between two cup for this. I’ve temporarily (with centers as in Fig30. If you are blue tape & CA glue) added a interested in trying some of the stop block at the rear and a 60° more complicated variations fence at the side to mate with later you will probably find it the ornament half. Which ever easier to mount the blank, turn a way you flatten the halves, try tenon at the bottom of the to remove the same amount ornament, and then mount the Fig32 The ghost image of the globe at this step is reliable. from both halves. ornament in a collet chuck.

Fig30 The ornament blank Fig33 After rounding over the top mounted between cup centers for of the globe. Fig28 A push block temporarily turning. modified for flattening ornament halves on a jointer. You would Now reduce the bottom icicle have to do to ornaments at once to area somewhat with a spindle roughing gouge and then begin Fig38 The ornament after turning. to round over the bottom of the globe as in Fig34. After the majority of the globe has been shaped return to the top finial area and shape the finial as in Fig35. If you wish a thinner or Fig36 After reducing the icicle fancier finial, consider diameter. mounting the ornament in a collet chuck.

Fig39 Using a sanding sponge for backup while sanding the globe.

Fig37 Gently reducing the icicle diameter to its final dimension with Fig34 After rounding over the a ½” spindle roughing gouge and bottom of the globe. two fingers as a back steady.

After reducing the size of the icicle, smooth out the surface with a spindle gouge or skew. Fig40 The sanded ornament. The result is shown in Fig38. Now sand the ornament with Attach a hanger of your choice progressively finer abrasives, to the ornament. I used starting at a grit that makes homemade hangers made from Fig35 Going back to turn the finial sense given your surface off the 22 brass wire. First bend after the heavier work on the globe tool. When sanding the globe, thin steel wire (about .06”) into has been completed. especially the coarsest grit, you a recurved L shape and mount it may find it helpful to back up in a variable speed drill. Cut a Now start reducing the diameter the with a sanding length of brass wire and clamp of the icicle as in Fig36. You sponge as in Fig39. Fig40 both ends together in a vise. will have to make light cuts at shows the ornament after Insert the steel wire L in the this point. I found it helpful to sanding. Remove the ornament loop of brass wire and turn on use a ½” roughing gouge (a from the lathe, cut off the nubs, the drill to twist the hanger as in narrower tool means less metal and sand the ends of the finial Fig41. Remove the hanger edge in contact with the wood and icicle off lathe. from the vise and shape it as which means less force on the desired. The small loop on the spindle), made from regrinding end, as in Fig42, makes a nice a P&N deep spindle gouge (not non-sharp, finger friendly end. a detail gouge) straight across. Fig37 shows the ½” roughing gouge in use. I have two fingers curled under the tool rest applying back pressure. spray lacquer). The finished ornament is shown in Fig43.

Fig41 Twisting a loop of brass wire into a spiral with drill and L shaped steel wire.

Fig44 Oval 6 Window Ornament.

The Diamond 6 Window Ornament in Fig 45 was turned Fig43 The completed 6 Window Ornament. with a V shaped recess for the first and second turnings.

Fig42 The completed hanger. Variations The loop left by the steel wire Once you’ve mastered the basic makes a nice finger friendly end. 6 Window Ornament you can explore variations. Here are a Measure the diameter of the few pictures to get you started. hanger for a starting point for The Oval 6 Window Ornament drill selection, then trial the fit in Fig44 was turned with a cove of the hanger by drilling inn with a at the bottom for scrap wood. After you’ve the first and second turning. figured out a good fit, drill a It’s not necessary to get carried hole in the ornament icicle. Put away echoing the shape of the a drop of CA glue on a piece of windows with the hanger like I tape or other disposable surface did. and dip the hanger in it. Then insert the hanger.

Blow off any on the inside of the globe. Apply a finish of your choice (I used Author David Reed Smith has started down the slippery slope to retirement by going half time around the time this article was written. He is absolutely delighted so far, and even included a new, one time author picture to celebrate. This article, in a possibly more expanded form, will be available along with more than 50 others on his web site. He welcomes questions and comments via email at [email protected]

Fig46 6 Window Ornament with veneer in between the triangles. Fig45 Diamond 6 Window Ornament. Tools Tablesaw or Bandsaw and For the 6 Window Ornament in Planer or Plane or Belt Sander Fig46 I glued dark veneer to Spindle Gouge one triangle face and oriented Cove Tool the triangles with the veneer out The author, post-semi-retirement. Irwin Quick Clamps or C- In WTD my Starbucks cup and for the first turning. This clamps & homemade cauls. bare feet were cropped off, required a certain amount of Standard Spindle Roughing imagine that. I actually did part of luck and/or finagling for glue Gouge the rough draft for this article under up, as you can’t glue and flatten ½” Spindle Roughing Gouge our deck awning. halves or you would remove the Skew optional veneer. I’ve tried several strategies, but I’m not quite Materials happy with any of them yet. Perhaps by the time this is Wood about 1-1/4” thick published it would pay to check Rubber bands my web site. Filament tape ¾” plywood for cauls if using C-clamps Wood glue