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Spring 2010 Textile Society of America Newsletter 22:2 — Spring/Summer 2010 Textile Society of America

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A Feast of Options Awaits Symposium Attendees In October by Kathy Moore c o n t e n t s hether it’s panels and behind-the-scenes tour of UNL’s Want to know more about presentations, work- anthropology collections? We Nebraska’s acclaimed writer, Willa 1 Symposium Options Wshops, tours, site semi- have that covered, too. You will Cather, author of O Pioneers! 2 Symposium Organized Sessions nars, or gallery exhibitions, when see a wide range of objects, from (1913), The Song of the Lark 3 From the President the Textile Society of America Egyptian mummies to 20th- (1915), My Ántonia (1918) and meets in Lincoln, NE, October century dance costumes. Do other literary works depicting the 4 TSA News, TSA Member News 6-9, 2010, attendees will have a you admire the beautiful woven immigrant pioneering experience full schedule of stimulating and works wrought by Navajo weav- in America in the last quarter 5 In Memoriam thought-provoking options to ers? There’s an exhibition and of the 19th century? There’s an 6 TSA Member News, Continued choose from. We have a wide demonstration for that at Morrill exhibition and a tour for that. 8 Symposium Tours assortment of seminars, work- Hall on the UNL campus. Ever If you’ve never toured the shops, and tours to broaden wonder how museums care Nebraska State Capitol Building, 9 Symposium Exhibitions your understanding of textile for and preserve rare 18th- and you don’t know what you’ve 11 Collections News arts, from the functional to the 19th-century Native American missed: a building listed as a 12 Textile Community News decorative, and from the ancient artifacts? Check out the semi- National Historic Landmark in to the current and cutting edge nar on stabilization and storage which , patterns, and mosa- 14 Exhibition Review of practice and performance. methods… even construction of ics are thoroughly integrated with 15 Book Reviews We invite you to step outside storage mounts for specific items early 20th-century architecture. 16 Publication News, Calls for of your comfort zone when you like headdresses, moccasins, Tours will be led by experienced Papers make your choices. You can look cradleboards, and more. and knowledgeable docents. 17 Calendar forward to an informative and stimulating experience. A Sampling of the Offerings Have you ever wanted to make

The Textile Society of America, paper using natural ? Inc. provides an international There’s a workshop for that on forum for the exchange the UNL campus. Ever wanted and dissemination of to know how a backstrap loom information about can produce decorative and textiles worldwide, wearable fabrics? There’s an from artistic, cultural, interactive demo for that featur- economic, historic, ing Burmese weavers at the Lux political, social, and Center for the Arts in Lincoln. technical perspectives. Ever wanted to have a personal, Janet Price in storage facility of the International Study Center & Museum. TSA BOARD OF DIRECTORS OFFICERS

President Patricia Hickman tel 845/947-8735 [email protected]

Vice President For lovers of and fabric, Organized Sessions remaining papers were submitted Ruth Scheuing there is an exhibition of contem- individually, and it was up to the tel 604/254-6322 [email protected] porary ikat textiles, and plans to ne of the great challenges organizing committee to sort out Treasurer have ikat and binding O of organizing the TSA the sessions and devise tempting Mary Masilamani demonstrations on-site. The intri- Symposium has been to create a titles and coherent themes. tel/fax 973/538-2705 cacies of cutting-edge research schedule that allows everyone to In the organized sessions [email protected] and development of textiles made find a way to take in as many of category you can choose to learn Recording Secretary from agricultural commodities will the amazing programs converging more about ways women in Roxane Shaughnessy tel 416/599-5321 ext. 2226 be discussed by a research profes- in one location as is possible dur- Muslim cultures dress in the ses- [email protected] sor in UNL’s Textiles, Clothing ing this intense period of time. sion “Wrapped in Culture: 21st Director of Internal Relations and Design Department. Historic I know that you will be faced Century Muslim Dress,” planned Mary Anne Jordan textiles and costumes will be with difficult decisions about by Christina Lindholm. The tel 785/864-3919 [email protected] exhibited, and a behind-the-scenes which speakers to hear, which speakers will explore how Muslim Director of External Relations tour of the Historic Collections exhibitions to see, and which site women are adapting traditional Janice Lessman-Moss Storage Facility will be provided. seminars to attend. And how dress to meet the challenges of tel 330/672-2158 fax 330/672-4729 Issues relating to archival collect- will you select a tour or work- the globalized contemporary [email protected] ing, storage, and maintenance shop? Fortunately, the 2010 world. They will speak to how Past President will be discussed during a tour Proceedings will come out after “New fabrics and technologies Carol Bier of the UNL Library’s Special all is said and done, and that is have changed centuries-old con- tel 510/849-2478 [email protected] Collections Department. when I, for one, will be able to struction techniques, while con- To complement all the site digest all that happens in Lincoln temporary and popular fashion DIRECTORS AT-LARGE seminars and behind-the-scenes this coming fall. We even hope has influenced silhouettes and Joanne B. Eicher tel 651/645-2914 tours, artists will deliver peer- to provide a visual summary of embellishments, even in the most [email protected] reviewed papers in Lincoln at the the exhibitions in the Proceedings. traditional Muslim garments.” Barbara Shapiro Sheldon Museum of Art, the Lux We have eight intriguing Several organized sessions tel 415/882-7401 Art Center, and the Eisentrager organized sessions. In TSA lan- explore the nature of making. [email protected] Howard Gallery, at exhibitions guage, that means an individual The session on “Negotiating the Fran Dorsey featuring international and or several people got together Handmade in a Cyber World” tel 902/494-8208 fax 902/425-2420 [email protected] national textile artists. and planned a session, complete organized by Mary Lane will Sumru Belger Krody Join us as we experience with theme, title and speakers. offer a variety of “perspectives on tel 202/667-0441 ext. 37 textiles from the current to the About one-third of the papers the value of handmade textiles– fax 202/483-0994 historical in a broad-ranging to be presented this year will both art textiles and functional [email protected] exploration of the possibilities. be in organized session. The textiles–and on the value of Matilda McQuaid technology as a tool for makers.” tel 212/849-8451 [email protected] Or, you can consider the Elena Phipps resurgence of ancient techniques tel 212/349-4485 in the session “What’s Old is [email protected] New Again: Carved Board TASK REPRESENTATIVES Clamped Resist ,” orga- TSA Website nized by Steering Committee Susan Powers, [email protected] member Jay Rich to comple- TSA Listserve ment the exhibition “Carved Laura Strand, [email protected]

Board Clamped Resist Dyeing: TSA Newsletter Historical Perspective and Karen Searle, [email protected] Contemporary Application” at 2009 Shep Award Chair the Weber Fine Arts Building Barbara Sloan, [email protected] Gallery on the University of TSA Website Information Coordinator Nebraksa-Omaha campus. Please Amy Scarborough, [email protected] note that this exhibition has an opening reception on Sunday, TSA Symposium 2010 Co-Chairs Curator of Exhibitions Marin Hanson examines a quilt in the Conservation Diane Vigna, [email protected] Oct. 10, 1-3 pm. You can plan Work Room of the International Quilt Study Center & Museum with Director Wendy Weiss, [email protected] Patricia Crews. Marin Hanson’s paper regarding the curation of exhibitions your travel schedule to take this at the IQSC will be a part of the Exhibitions-focused Site Seminar held at Symposium Proceedings Editor reception in before you depart Ann Svenson Perlman, the IQSC. to p. 8 [email protected] 2 tsa newsletter members and Symposium partici- through an extraordinarily com- to offer more regional events in pants to learn about the internal plicated financial year, and her different parts of the country. operations of our organization help as TSA moves forward. The proposed TSA tour to From The —our finances and the annual The Nominations and Elections Oaxaca, Mexico has been tem- budget; membership, external Committee is looking beyond porarily postponed, and will be President relations and publicity; news the October Board meeting for rescheduled. Ongoing planning about our Website, Newsletter, an acting Treasurer to complete continues for the 2011 Study Listserv and Publications; awards the two remaining years of Tours to Southern India with and scholarships; workshops and Mary’s term. Sandra Evenson, and to Korea study tours. The venue for TSA with Karen Searle. Members 12 th Biennial Symposium 2012 will be announced. Conflict of Interest will be informed through the The General Meeting is also Policy newsletter and via email blasts he TSA Board met on the formal venue at which the All Board members, Task of registration details, exact TMarch 27-28 in Vancouver, current Board steps down and Representatives, and our dates, the itinerary and costs of hosted by Vice President, Ruth the new Board is installed. National Manager have signed these tours as soon as plans are Scheuing. It was a very impor- copies of this policy, which are finalized. Nominations and tant time together, as we focused on file at the National Office. on all the careful planning that Elections Board Service has gone into the upcoming In mid-February the Board voted Long-Range Plan Around the edges of the Board Symposium by co-chairs, Wendy to approve the appointment of At the Board meeting, an ad meeting in Vancouver, Board Weiss and Diane Vigna, and Pat Hickman, Fran Dorsey, hoc committee, chaired by Past members were given a recep- the local Steering Committee. and Ruth Scheuing as Board President Carol Bier, had a tion in the Studios Lincoln, NE, is eagerly awaiting members of the Nominations lively discussion, looking beyond at Capilano University with our arrival October 6-9, 2010 and Elections Committee. The 2011, affirming what this Board local TSA members and others with pre- and post-Symposium two non-board members who wishes to keep in our current in the textile community, and tours, outstanding workshops, have agreed to serve on this Long-Range Plan, and beginning had a guided tour with Betsy exciting exhibitions and panels, committee are Zoe Perkins and to formulate proposed changes Johnson, Emeritus Curator of the award banquet, and unique Claire Odlund. The committee to be presented for discussion Textiles at the University of offerings at the marketplace and is determining a timeline for pro- and approval at the Fall 2010 British Columbia’s Anthropology book fair. Go to the TSA website, ducing the ballot materials, gath- Board meeting. Museum—an extraordinary http://www.textilesociety.org ering bios and candidate state- home for Northwest Coast art. to find the full listing of program- ments and commitments, and is Listserv Coordinator The museum has a remarkable ming and register early online or setting up the electronic balloting As President, I have appoint- system of storage drawers that send in your registration form by for May elections. Please cast ed Lydia Fraser as Task make some of their collections mail or fax to the TSA National your vote, as we want full partici- Representative to serve as a accessible to visitors. Charlotte Office. I look forward to seeing pation in this upcoming election. replacement for Laura Strand, Kwon welcomed us at MAIWA you and welcoming you there. An email blast to all members who has generously served TSA Handprints Ltd, where we also will notify you when you can visited the Loft library and textile General Meeting for many years as our Listserv begin voting electronically. Coordinator. We are deeply collection. The meetings were The General Membership Due to personal health grateful to Laura for her years book-ended by a lecture/talk by Luncheon Meeting of the Textile issues, Mary Masilamani has of service. Lydia is the part-time Pat Hickman and an exhibit, Society of America will take resigned as Treasurer of TSA, librarian at the Textile Museum “Silkroads”, by Ruth Scheuing. place on Thursday, October 7. effective May 1, 2010. Carol and will work with Laura to Serving on the Board provides This biennial event enables TSA Bier, immediate Past President make a smooth transition as such a rich opportunity for get- of TSA, is stepping in as interim we navigate this next phase of ting to know professional col- Treasurer until the next Board changes in TSA’s ongoing transi- leagues in the field. This same TSA Headquarters meeting in Lincoln. Both Mary tion to electronic media. opportunity is one of the high- Charlotte Cosby, Manager and Carol are working with John lights of our Symposium. TSA National Office Wessells, our accountant, and Study Tours See you in Lincoln in TSA Member Services with Charlotte Cosby, National By the time you receive this October! PO Box 193 Office Manager, to ensure a Newsletter, Mary Masilamani’s – Pat Hickman, TSA President Middletown, DE 19709 smooth transition for TSA. Mary carefully organized study tour tel 302/378-9636 Masilamani will continue to day trip to Paterson, New Jersey’s fax 302/378-9637 serve on the Finance Committee. Silk City, will have taken place [email protected] The TSA Board so appreciates on April 17th. Registration is high; Mary’s careful work, her guid- http://www.textilesociety.org we anticipate an almost full bus- your source for membership ance and assistance as treasurer, load. In the future, TSA is hoping forms, study tour information, and the latest news.

Spring/Summer 2010 3 Sandra is Professor of Apparel and Textiles and interim director of the School of Family TSA and Consumer Sciences at the University of Idaho. She co- News authored The Visible Self: Global Perspectives on Dress, Culture, and Society with Joanne Eicher and Hazel Lutz. She conducted her research on Indian Madras Plaids Study Tour to in South India and studied North South India Indian apparel and textiles on a Fulbright-Hayes Group Study Jan/Feb 2011 2006-2007. This will be her fifth trip to India. Sandra looks for- ince the days of the Roman S Empire, South Indian textile ward to updating participants on artisans have been weaving, textile history and travel tips as painting, dyeing, and embellish- the trip approaches. Korean fiber artists. A visit to the conjunction with Korean fiber ing sumptuous textiles for the We are still working out the Heyri Artists Village overlook- artists Jeeun Kim and Soonran courts of kings and the mar- itinerary and cost, but the trip ing the demilitarized zone will Youn. kets of the world. Join Sandra will run 14 days in late January/ highlight Korea’s finest offerings Dates and arrangements are Evenson as we explore the tex- early February 2011. Watch the in contemporary art and architec- being finalized, and details and tile villages where these fabrics TSA website for updates. ture. Another highlight will be a costs will be posted soon on the are still produced by hand. See visit to the Dongdaemun market, TSA website. how saris of gold and silk thread Study Tour to a large market district in Seoul are woven in Kanchipuram. that includes a huge fabric and Trace the production and trade South Korea notions market. of Indian Madras Plaids from September 2011 The tour is planned for TSA the Coromandel Coast through September in order to coincide Chennai (Madras) to ports in orea offers a rich mix with the opening ceremonies Member West Africa and the US. Try Kof traditional textiles and of the prestigious Cheongju your hand at block printing or contemporary textile art, along International Craft Biennale News kalamkari fabric painting using with a unique cultural experi- exhibition and its one-day pigments favored by the market ence. This tour, led by Karen symposium held in that city in of Indonesia and points East. We Searle, is designed to highlight odd-numbered years. This city- will conclude the trip at the fabu- the contrast between ancient and wide exhibition showcases the Member Achievements lous Calico Museum of Textiles contemporary that can be seen best in Korean contemporary Linda S. McIntosh com- in Ahmedabad. throughout the country, as well fiber, ceramics, glass and wood, as the ways in which Korean alongside works by outstanding pleted her PhD at Simon Fraser artists look to tradition for their international artists. The organiz- University, BC, Canada, in the contemporary inspiration. The ers of the Biennale are excited Fall of 2009. The title of her tour will be based in Seoul with to host a group of distinguished doctoral thesis is, “Textiles of the visits to the cities of Cheongju foreign visitors at the exhibition’s Phu Thai of Laos.” and Daegu southeast of Seoul. opening ceremonies. Artists are Visits are planned to the encouraged to watch for the call Member Exhibitions National Folk Art Museum in for entries to be posted soon on “Night Bloom,” a dimensional Seoul and to several specialized the exhibition’s website, art quilt by Regina Benson, is museums in Seoul and Daegu http://www.cheongjubiennale. included in “Art Quilt Elements dedicated to preserving aspects or.kr/eng 2010” at Wayne Art Center, of the country’s textile heritage, Fiber artist Karen Searle has Wayne PA, Apr. 17-May 19. such as , natural made several trips to Korea, http://www.artquiltelements.com dyeing, straw sandal making, participating in and jurying major http://www.reginabenson.com horsehair hat making, papermak- textile exhibitions, and visiting A four-page article on Benson’s ing, ramie processing, silk flower fiber artists and observing tra- journey as artist and original making, and the traditional ditional textile production in mark-maker is presented in used for wrapping various parts of the country. She the April/May issue of Quilters cloths called pojagi. Visits are also has organized this tour in Newsletter Magazine. planned to the studios of several to p. 6 Above, Weaver in Chirala, India, twisting new warps onto old, in preparation for weaving Real Madras Handkerchief (Indian Madras Plaids) for the Nigerian market. Upper right, Hemp weaver at traditional loom, Andongh Province, Korea. 4 tsa newsletter Eighteenth Century in the Collection Patricia J. Williams of the Victoria and Albert Museum 1944-2010 In (Thames and Hudson, 1990). In addition to this magnum opus, at Williams, long-time TSA Memoriam Natalie will be remembered for Pmember and Professor many publications, including Emeritus at Eastern Michigan several volumes in the V&A’s University, passed away Dec. series on textiles and fashion in 17, 2009 of pancreatic cancer. the permanent collection, count- She was highly respected as an less articles, and contributing to Natalie K.A. Rothstein educator, researcher, and artist. and editing A Lady of Fashion: Pat is considered one of the pio- 1930-2010 Barbara Johnson’s Album of Styles neers of digital Jacquard weav- and Fabrics (Thames and Hudson, ing, establishing one of the first atalie Rothstein, the 1987). She did pioneering work Jacquard instruction programs in former Curator of Textiles N on the important web of textile the US at EMU. She headed the at the Victoria and Albert trade between England and its Jacquard Certificate program at Museum and specialist in 18th- American colonies, for which her the University’s Textiles Research Stephen M. Beal century silks, died in February American colleagues are particu- and Training Institute, which has 1939-2010 after suffering a stroke. She will larly grateful. served students from EMU and be greatly missed, not only for After her retirement she from around the U.S. After tephen Beal, 70, died her groundbreaking contributions lectured widely and catalogued retirement, Pat traveled S April 26, 2010, after a to the field and for her scholar- textile collections in the Museum to Norway on a Fulbright lengthy illness. He was born on ship, but also for her integrity, of London, the Museum of Fellowship in 2008-2009. May 17, 1939, in Evanston, IL, kindness, and generosity. She Costume, Bath, and for the A master weaver, Pat’s art to Serall Wood Beal and Adelia was a mentor, advisor, and friend National Trust at Knole, work involved translating the Beal Comfort. to several generations of textile Waddeston Manor, and in several colors, forms, and textures of Beal graduated from Williams and costume historians. National Trust houses in Northern nature into woven works of art. College, Williamstown, MA, Natalie’s career is best sum- Ireland. On the Continent, she She stated, “Weaving has led me in 1960, and attended Exeter marized in her own words, catalogued textiles in the Jewish down two divergent paths. The College of Oxford University which convey a sense of her Historical Museum in Amsterdam, one most traveled is a metaphysi- in England. He taught at Lake wonderfully dry, self-deprecating reported on the textiles in the cal one manifested in symbolic Forest College in Lake Forest, IL, humor: “I decided in my sec- Linnean Museum in Uppsala, storytelling. I have used and worked in editing and copy- ond year [at St. Hilda’s College, Sweden, and worked on two to explore my own attitude writing in Chicago before mov- Oxford,] that I wanted to work projects for the Abegg Stiftung, toward life and the interlacing of ing to Loveland, CO, in 1998 to in a museum and after 78 refus- Bern, both of which included a people, character, and place. The work at Interweave Press. als (in writing!) I succeeded in conference, exhibition, and publi- other path reflects the realistic Beal was widely known as open competition, joining the cation of papers. representation of still life, but a poet and needlepoint artist. staff of the V&A [in 1952] as It is a remarkable legacy. always with an active twist.” His highly acclaimed book of a museum assistant, the lowest – Deborah Kraak verse, The Very Stuff (Interweave form of curatorial life. In 1961 A Celebration of Pat’s Life Press, 1997), received the poetry I completed a research degree A memorial for Natalie will will be held May 21 at EMU. award from Colorado Center (MA) at London University with be held at Christie’s, South Donations in her memory may be for The Book in 1997. Suddenly a thesis on the Silk Industry in Kensington, London, on made to Pat Williams Scholarship Speaking Babylonian (Hanging London 1702-1766, by which May 21, 2010. Fund: Development Office, College Loose Press, Brooklyn, NY), time I had become a research of Arts and Sciences; Eastern was published in 2004. His The Textile Society of America is assistant. I became an assistant Michigan University, 1349 S. needlepoint work has appeared planning a tribute to Natalie Keeper in 1962, Deputy Keeper Huron St, Ypsilanti, MO 48197. internationally, including at the during its biennial Symposium in in 1972, and, finally, Curator of – Daryl Hafter, Karen Searle Museum of Art and Design in Lincoln, NE, October 6-9, 2010. Textiles early in 1989 (until New York, and most recently, in Tapestry by Pat Williams. retirement in 1990).” the Seventh Annual International She specialized in woven Fiber Biennale at the Snyderman and printed textiles, concentrat- Gallery in Philadelphia. Beal was ing on the period from 1600- presented with the Lillian Elliott 1850, and, within that, on the Award for Excellence in Fiber French and English silk industries. Arts by the Textile Society of Natalie explained that, given America in 2008. the many other tasks a curator He is survived by his brother, has to perform, it took the best S. Wood Beal and wife Ann, of part of 30 years to complete to p. 16 the catalogue Silk Designs of the

Spring/Summer 2010 5 Linda is co-Curator coincided with the exhibition. different iterations of the Joe of the upcoming http://www.polyu.edu.hk Ben Wheat collection of Navajo Winterthur exhibition, yoshikowada.wordpress.com textiles from the CU Museum of “Betsy Ross and the Natural History. The culminating Making of America,” Mary Zicafoose was one of portion of the exhibition, “Navajo with Marla Miller, Oct. five American textile artists Weaving: Diamonds, Dreams, 2-Jan. 10, 2011. Betsy invited to exhibit her work in Landscapes,” will be the back- Ross labored for more the “13th International Triennial drop for the CONNECTIONS than six decades as an of Tapestry,” at the Central conference and workshop. Ann upholsterer, crafting Museum of Textiles, Lodz, Hedlund, Director of the Gloria F. chair cases and covers Poland, May 10-Oct. 31. Mary Ross Center for tapestry Studies and curtains and blinds, created a three-panel silk 8’ x 8’ at the Arizona State Museum as well as fringe and weft-faced ikat triptych entitled will speak on “A Turning Point: tassels. Other family “BluePrint” for the prestigious When became members made stays exhibition. Art.” Suzanne MacAulay, folk- and gowns, and also http://www.maryzicafoose.com lorist and chair of the Visual & clocks; they built hous- Performing Arts Department at es, scoured and dyed Member Lectures and University of Colorado-Colorado cloth, and wove rugs. Workshops Springs will present “From One Together, Ross and her Mary F. Connors lectured End to the Other: Weaving family “made” America, on “Costumes and Cultures Across Time and Space.” both figuratively and literally. http://cumuseum.colorado.edu Linda Eaton writes: “The of the Minorities of Northern Marla Miller’s scholarly biogra- Plimoth Jacket,” on display Vietnam“on May 6 at the Asian phy, Betsy Ross and the Making Melissa Rinne, Associate at Winterthur Museum, DE, Art Museum, San Francisco. of America is now commercially Curator of Japanese Art at the through 2011, is a 1620s-era Mary is an independent scholar available. Asian Art Museum, presented style woman’s embroidered who lived more than 30 years in http://www.winterthur.org the lecture ”Bast Fiber Textiles waistcoat (above), originally various Southeast Asian nations. of Japan: From Tafu to Jofu” conceived as a centerpiece for During her time in Asia, she Jeeun Kim was given a solo to the Textile Arts Council of a planned exhibition at Plimoth focused her study on the life ways exhibition of her sculptural works the DeYoung Museum, San Plantation. The project grew of the many ethnic groups found in paper and wire April 5-11 at Francisco, CA, on Mar. 20. Ms. from humble beginnings to in the region and the crafts pro- the Montmarte Gallery in Rinne lived in Japan and shared become a worldwide phenom- duced by these various cultures, Seoul, Korea. insights and images from her enon in collaborative fabrication especially textiles. She is author http://www.jeeun.net/ fieldwork on bast fiber textile and research. Over 300 people, of Lao Textiles and Traditions, production. Although fibers from fourth-grade boys and girls Oxford University Press, 1996, Yoshiko I. Wada and Hong such as hemp have a primarily to men and women past their “Woven Harmony: Basketry and Kong Polytech University industrial history in the West, in 70s, many of whom had never Textiles in Laos” in Arts of Asia, Professor Kinor Jiang recently Japan the beautiful and intricate tried embroidery, spent more Vol. 33 #5, and “Sacred Threads: curated “Transformation: textiles made from bast fibers than 3,700 hours making this Ceremonial Textiles of Southeast Material • Magic • Memory,” a probably predate the rise of silk beautiful recreation. A stun- Asia” in Arts of Asia, Vol. 32 #1. landmark exhibition for HPKU’s and cotton. Before moving to ning visual treat, the jacket has http://www.SocietyForAsianArt. Institute of Textiles & Clothing. San Francisco, Melissa worked provided a rich opportunity for org Showcasing works by contempo- with the National Museums of and research, rary artists who simultaneously Joanne B. Eicher, University of Nara and Kyoto, and Stanford illuminating how complex pieces pay homage to their rich cultural Minnesota, presented a paper, University’s Kyoto Center for may have been worked in the and artistic traditions as they “The Sacred Use of Indian Textiles Japanese Studies. 17th century. Not content with experiment with new approach- by the Kalabari of Nigeria,” on the http://[email protected] using materials available today, es, the exhibition displayed 41 Sacred Textiles panel on Mar. 5 the team decoded how threads fashion and textile works by nine at the five-day Sacred Arts Karen Searle spoke about and spangles were made in the internationally renowned art- Festival in Delhi, India. her work on Apr. 23 at the past and had them remade for ists/designers from Japan, USA, http://sacredartsfestivaldelhi.org MacNider Art Center, Mason the project. The story of the India, Switzerland, and Australia: City, IA, in conjunction with research into needlework and Junichi Arai, Jean Cacicedo, Ann Hedlund and Suzanne “The Art of Aging” group lace techniques and materials, as Ana Lisa Hedstrom, Padmaja MacAulay are featured speakers exhibiton, Mar. 4-May 2. The well as the inspiring development Krishnan, Tsuyoshi Kuno, at CONNECTIONS: Weaver’s exhibition will be on view at the of a community of workers and Mascha Mioni, Rahul Mishra, Day on May 15 at University Cowles Gallery, Minneapolis, “internet participants” will be Barbara Rogers, and Yoshiko I. of Colorado-Boulder, an event MN Central Library, June 1-Aug. told at a conference in the Fall Wada. A public lecture series held in conjunction with the 30. Karen will appear in a public of 2011. year-long exhibition of three TV documentary about the

6 tsa newsletter four artists who created this Member Publications old nomadic existence to being interdisciplinary exhibition. either semi-nomadic or fully Julia Brennan was profiled in http://www.macniderart.org settled. She gathered her infor- the ARCA Blog for March 3. She http://karensearle.com mation while living and traveling contributed a chapter to the new in Saudi Arabia and other parts book on textile conservation, Fiber sculptor Adrienne Sloane of the Arabian Peninsula from Textile Conservation: Advances spoke about her work at the 1982-1994. The book is pro- in Practice, edited by Frances Mar. 17 meeting of the Textile fusely illustrated, with detailed Lennard and Patricia Ewer. The Study Group of New York. Her instruction in techniques, and is book is a reference manual for recent piece, “Sea Change,” won an essential companion for col- textile conservators, textile con- a Juror’s Award from the Greater lectors and connoisseurs of flat- servation students, and museum Denton (TX) Arts Council at its weave textiles. Visit Joy’s website and heritage professionals and “Dawn to Dusk,” tapestry by Judith recent exhibition, “Materials Hard for ordering information, video includes case studies from the Poxson Fawkes, from a recent & Soft.” Her work is included and blog: exhibition at Laura Russo Gallery, US, UK, mainland Europe, and in the spring exhibitions “Fiber: http://www.beduinweaving.com/ Portand, OR. Asia. Elsevier, $59.95. TwentyTen” in St. Charles, toc.htm MO; and “Fantastic Fibers” in ISBN 9780750667906. Orders: http://elsevierdirect.com in a Rembrandt painting; 18th Paducah, KY. She will teach this Elena Phipps announces the http://caringfortextiles.com century French and summer at the Split Rock Arts publication of her new book, http://art-crime.blogspot. a New England quilt; a 19th- Program in St. Paul, MN, Penland Cochineal Red: The Art History of com/2010/03/what-happens- century Chinese wedding ban- School of Crafts in Asheville, NC, a Color, Yale University Press, after-arcas-ma-in.html ner, Navajo rug, and Islamic and at Convergence 2010 in 2010. coat from Turkmenistan; and a Albuquerque, NM. http://www.yale.edu/yup magnificent Fortuny silk velvet http://www.dentonarts.com/ Joy May Hilden announces her new book, Bedouin Weaving of evening jacket dating from the gdac99/about_gdac/programs/ Mary Dusenbury writes: For Saudi Arabia and its Neighbors. 1950s. The issue is well-docu- materials_hard_and_soft.htm those of you who don’t regu- Bedouin textiles played a vital mented, beautifully illustrated larly see the Metroplitan Museum and functional part in the life of and engagingly written. Yoshiko Wada presented of Art Bulletin, Elena Phipps, Arab nomads. Bedouin women http://www.metmuseum.org/ two lectures on shibori in con- emeritus conservator and textile mastered the art of making tents education/er_publication.asp junction with the exhibition scholar at the Met, has writ- as well as a wide range of rugs, “Transformation: Material •Magic ten the Winter 2010 issue on saddlebags and other equipment Weaving a Chronicle, a catalogue • Memory,” at Hong Kong Cochineal Red; The Art History of able to withstand the rigors of of the tapestry commissions Polytech University. She is offering a Color. The result of many years the desert. They took fierce pride of Judith Poxson Fawkes, a tour to Arimatsu and Nagoya, of study and over 100 analyses in their work and produced, on is now in its second printing. Japan, focusing on shibori and of reds in extant textiles from the the simplest of ground looms, Forty-six tapestries are shown, dyeing, in May, 2010. In June museum’s vast collections, the textiles that were both hard- with descriptions of each work’s and July she will teach shibori issue is an important contribution wearing and of vibrant aesthetic creation. Stories of the tapestries workshops in Puglia, Italy. to our knowledge of the reds appeal. Joy Hilden describes the revisit commissions and exhibi- http://shiboriorg.wordpress.com/ used in ancient and historic dyes techniques in the context of a tions, and the narrative highlights projects/slow-fiber/slow-tours around the world with a focus transitional mode of Bedouin life, the interplay of design, tech- http://yoshikowada.wordpress.com on insect dyes and, most par- as they adapt from a centuries- niques, materials and life experi- ticularly, on cochineal. Although ences. In addition to private col- we have known for centuries lections, Fawkes’ commissioned that cochineal was an important works hang in such diverse Spanish export from its colonies locations as a Federal courthouse, in the Americas, this is the first hospitals, university and school comprehensive attempt to use buildings, corporations and busi- dye analysis to confirm (or not) nesses, a Royal Caribbean cruise the presence of South American ship, residences in Saudi Arabia cochineal. Among the cochineal- and Paris, a winery, and a jail dyed textiles Phipps illustrates lobby. are the uniforms of Britain’s 98 pp., 46 color images, paper, “redcoats” of revolutionary fame; 8 1/2 x 11” a Spanish cope and an Italian ISBN-10: 0-615-29347-6 velvet fragment from the 16th ISBN-13: 978-0-615-29347-9 century; 17th-century Safavid Order from Laura Russo Gallery, (Iranian) brocade and pigments [email protected] http://www.laurarusso.com/ “Sea Change,” machine-knit artists/fawkes_j.html installation by Adrienne Sloane.

Spring/Summer 2010 7 from p. 2 from Eppley Field, if you fly out The membership of TSA has The Symposium honors the Symposium Tours of Omaha. spoken with an almost immedi- tapestry technique with two “Slow Art and Textile ate sell-out of the natural dye major exhibitions. In addition, Feature Textiles on Practice” is an organized session workshop, but you will have Susan Iverson has developed the Great Plains that outgoing board member ample opportunity to learn more an organized session called Janice Lessman-Moss devel- about these fascinating substanc- “Tapestry: Voices From the Past articipants in the pre-and oped. She notes that three artists es and their history. Lead into the Future.” In her PPost-Symposium Tours for with “unique and varied practices Christine Martens has session abstract she tells us, “By the 12th Biennial Symposium will present their work as related worked to bring two colleagues its technical definition tapestry Oct. 6-9, 2010, in Lincoln, will to ‘Slowness.’ Methods of con- from Central Asia to join us as is very straightforward–weave have the opportunity to see the struction depend on disciplined participants in the session on over, weave under, repeat and best that Nebraska has to offer and exacting craftsmanship “Textile Traditions of Central compact. This simple structure first-hand. We will shatter any achieved through a concentrated Asia and Reverberations Abroad.” allows for diverse ways of build- preconceived notions you may engagement that both embraces Martens notes that “the diverse ing images. American tapestry have about Nebraska or the and suspends time.” textiles of Central Asia can be weavers seem to fall into two Midwestern states when you Linking history and practice, found in both the sedentary and categories: those who embrace attend one or two of the excur- Elena Phipps was able to secure nomadic cultures of the region. the grid of warp and weft, and sions we offer! You will be able significant support from The Reed In the semi-nomadic culture of the notion that the image and to see vast, beautiful expanses of Foundation to develop a two- the Autonomous Republic of structure are equal partners in crops at harvest season in addi- part session on “Dyes and Color: Karakalpakstan in Uzbekistan, the art-making process, and those tion to exploring the focused Materials and Culture.” In the first few remnants of traditional who embrace the notion that programming of each tour. session, presenters will explore culture remain, yet textile objects tapestry is a translation of marks/ For those interested in textile “Dyes and their Materials,” while exist that tell of this rich history... images made in another medium conservation with spectacular the second is titled “Dyes and We will examine varying exam- with a goal of rendering the grid scenery tossed into the mix, Color in their Context.” French ples of patchwork, , embroi- of the woven structure nearly don’t miss the behind-the-scenes natural dye expert Dominique dery, and costume, together invisible.” tour of the “Steamboat Bertrand” Cardon has agreed to both deliv- with accompanying traditions, – Wendy Weiss exhibition located in the DeSoto er a plenary session and participate found in Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan Bend National Wildlife Preserve in the organized sessions. and Uzbekistan.” near Blair, NE.

Left, You’ll find Navajo weaving demonstrations at the Symposium similar to this one: Navajo weaver Sadie Curtis making a revival-style chief’s blanket, Kinlichee, AZ, 1981. Photo: A. Hedlund. Center, Jack Walsh, Mary Anne Jordan, Carolyn Ducey, Gul LaPorte, and Partricia Stoddard examine a ralli in IQSC’s Conservation Care Facility. Right, Detail, “Tiger,” Jacquard fabric by Julie Holyoke of Lisio Foundation, Italy, presenter of “Jacquard, A Loom of Opportunity,” a workshop for educators. 8 tsa newsletter Nebraska author Willa Cather is the subject of a tour and an exhibit. If art is your passion, the Duncan Collection in Lincoln concludes a day filled with art- ists and galleries in Omaha, Nebraska’s largest city. The Duncan Collection is so spec- The galleries at the International Quilt Study Center & Museum during the inaugural exhibition “ in tacular that visiting it with Robert Common.” TSA members who select one of the site seminars held at the IQSC will enjoy a curator-led tour of Duncan as a guide might be the “South Asian Seams: Quilts of India, Pakistan and Bangladesh” as one part of their site-seminar experience. highlight of your year! Robert Hillestad, and Mary Zicafoose, and “Childhood Treasures, Thank you to Ann Hedlund We are thrilled to announce two internationally known fiber Doll Quilts from the Ghormley and Mary Lane, who have that the award-winning pho- artists, will lead this art- and con- Collection.” provided us with sneak previews tography exhibition, “Faces of temporary textile-filled day. Willa Cather is still one of (following) of two important Freedom,” by Washington, DC Nebraska became a state in Nebraska’s most beloved authors. anchor weaving exhibitions that photo documentarian, filmmaker, 1867, and those who travel to The tour to Red Cloud, NE, you won’t want to miss: “The and human rights educator the interactive exhibits at the will take participants to Cather’s American Tapestry Biennial 8,” U. Robert Romano, will be in Homestead National Monument childhood home and the com- and “A Turning Point: Lincoln during the conference. in Beatrice, NE, will understand munity and area that inspired the Contemporary Navajo Weaving These graphic and lyrical pho- more about how the Great books O Pioneers!, My Antonia, in the Late Twentieth Century.” tographs take you behind the Plains was settled as a part of the and other favorite Cather stories. Both exhibitions feature extraor- looms and inside South Asian Homestead Act. A glimpse of This tour will enrich your visit to dinary tapestry, impeccable and carpet factories, documenting Nebraska’s agricultural economy the Nebraska History Museum eclectic technique, and pro- the heart of child labor trans- is a feature of this tour as well. when you stop there during the vocative story-telling from an formation achieved through Wednesday’s tours will all Thursday Gallery Hop to see international as well as a Native the efforts of the RugMark/ end at the International Quilt the exhibition Tina Koeppe is American perspective. GoodWeave organization. Study Center for the TSA open- curating, titled “Willa Cather and Among the new arrivals And, our last new Lincoln ing Welcome Reception, a tour the Material World.” on our exhibition marquee is addition is “Quilts from the of the galleries, and a walk-in – Diane Vigna “Sequenced Fibers: Books of Beggar’s Camp,” a trifecta mul- bead workshop. Two exhibitions Handmade Paper,” a juried book timedia exhibition. It features a will grace the IQSC galleries: Symposium arts exhibition at the UNO Art documentary film by Vermont “South Asian Seams: Quilts from Gallery, University of Nebraska- filmmaker Paul McGowan, India, Pakistan and Bangladesh,” Exhibitions Update Omaha, curated by Bonnie shown in conjunction with quilts curated by Patricia Stoddard, t’s Spring in Nebraska, and O’Connell. Contact Bonnie, made by Canadian contempo- Iwe are counting down the [email protected], rary textile artist Nika Feldman days until you arrive for Textiles for entry information. that were produced in collabora- and Settlement. We have 21 “Baskets from the Heartland: tion with women refugees in very compelling textile exhibi- Tradition, Passion & Innovation” Katmandu, Nepal, and portraits tions planned, and the exhibits highlights new and enduring of the women and their work and venues continue to multiply voices in contemporary basketry. documented by German photog- as momentum builds. I wonder This recent addition, curated by rapher, Andrea Brigmann. how many linear miles of textiles Brigitte McQueen, director of the We look forward to seeing and inspiration this will add up Bemis Underground, will also be you at the Gallery Crawl! to be? on the Omaha docket. –Mary Zicafoose A glimpse of the Duncan Collection. Photo: Karen Searle Spring/Summer 2010 9 So it may be with certain art trends. Sometimes there are sig- nificant movers and shakers who signal a sharp change—a Picasso or Jackson Pollock, a blockbuster show or landmark book. Many times, however, a significant shift occurs only in incremental and rarely observed steps. The change is perhaps identified only in retrospect. During the course of the 20th Susan Iverson, “Seven Days at Millfield Pond,” 24 x 72 inches; wool, silk, linen, on view in “ATB8.” century, Navajo weaving found itself on such a course. Native ATB8 in Nebraska designers and weavers through- A Turning Point: Southwestern weavers began to out the world; to encourage use self-identify as artists and started merican Tapestry Biennial of tapestries by corporate, liturgi- Navajo Weaving in to explore aesthetics beyond tribal A(ATB) is the premier inter- cal and private collectors; and to the Late Twentieth traditions. Simultaneously, urban national exhibition of contem- educate the public about the his- Century galleries started featuring Navajo porary tapestry. Sponsored by tory of, and techniques involved and Pueblo rugs as fine art; col- the American Tapestry Alliance in tapestry making. lectors grew to recognize the (ATA), the Biennials were initi- The American Tapestry spectacular beauty and significant ated in 1996, and have grown Alliance is thrilled that “ATB8” cultural and personal meanings steadily in scope and participa- will open at the Elder Gallery at of Southwest textiles. The rise of tion. The most recent exhibition, Nebraska Wesleyan University individual artists, formal arts train- “ATB8,” was juried by Rebecca in conjunction with TSA’s 12th ing, and the titling of new pieces A.T. Stevens, Consulting Curator Biennial Symposium, “Textiles became significant trends. of the Textile Museum in and Settlement: From Plains What contributed to the Washington, DC. A record num- Space to Cyber Space.” The growing perception of Navajo ber of entries were received: 176 exhibition will be featured in the magine the broad arc of weaving as a contemporary tapestries from 105 artists. The Thursday evening Gallery Crawl I a country highway ahead of art form, and when did it hap- juror’s choices include a dynamic and in the Friday afternoon you on some early morning. pen? Likely we won’t pinpoint selection of 64 tapestries from Site Seminars. In addition, two You’re heading north as a long the place, moment or persons, 11 countries. Large and small Symposium sessions will feature smooth turn in the road begins. but we can discuss various fac- works are featured, along with contemporary tapestry. The car moves incrementally to tors that developed during the elegant, complex, and minimalist For more information, the right. You apply more gas late 20th century. We can also tapestries. It is truly a broad and please contact Michael Rohde, to maintain momentum as the examine some stellar examples diverse exhibition. [email protected], or Susan vehicle swings into the curve. At of Navajo weaving that demon- Organized by ATA volun- Iverson, [email protected]. no point do you make a sharp strate many relevant features. turn. Small corrections with the teers, American Tapestry Biennial – Mary Lane “A Turning Point: Navajo has sought exhibition venues steering wheel move you and Weaving in the Late Twentieth that are well respected and non- the machine gently around. And Century” is an exhibition on commercial. The show usually then, you find yourself facing view at the Nebraska State travels, and a bound catalogue east toward the rising sun. Museum during the TSA that includes essays by the juror and other writers documents the show. The mission of ATA is to promote an awareness of, and Upper right, Leaving Crystal, Navajo appreciation for, woven tapestries Nation, New Mexico. designed and woven by individu- Right, Elsie Whitehorse weaving on a portable loom, Shiprock, NM. al artists; to establish, perpetuate and recognize superior quality Opposite page, top, Mary Lee Henderson Begay weaving a tapestries by artists world-wide; Kenneth Noland chevron, “Nizhoni to coordinate exhibitions of tap- Peak,” for Gloria F. Ross Tapestries, estries; to establish a professional Hubbell Trading Post, Ganado, AZ, networking system for tapestry 1980. Opposite page, bottom, “Bird and Cornstalk,” a Pictorial rug by Daisy Nockideneh, 1994, 56”x 38” (The Santa Fe Collection).

10 tsa newsletter and museum-quality investments. of restored Islamic architecture Textile Conservation Centre in Like other artists, native weavers and colorful sidewalk shops. The Winchester last year spurred the of the American Southwest are address is El-Mu’iz li-Din Allah founding of the new centre. affected today by challenging Street, El-Gamalya, Cairo. This The new Centre for Textile economic, cultural, and natural Textile Museum is a wonderful Conservation History and environments. Taking these into addition to Cairo. Technical Art History will focus account, the exhibit emphasizes Many of the textiles from on multidisciplinary object- native weavers’ successful efforts Tutankhamun‘s tomb, includ- based teaching and research that toward artistic self-determination, ing the fabulous Tunic of encompasses conservation and innovative production, and Tutankhamun, are on display in the physical sciences as well as creative marketing. The Egyptian Museum. All of art history, dress, and textile his- – Ann Lane Hedlund the textile exhibits in the Coptic tory. It will be the first time that Museum in Old Cairo have been textile conservation training has redone since my 1983 visit and been offered in Scotland, and are handsomely displayed. The the program is expected to have Islamic Museum in Cairo is to national and international impact. be reopened soon. A visit to the The Centre inherits the exist- Collections Ramses Wissa Wassef Art Center ing library, intellectual property, to observe the tapestry weavers and analytical equipment from Symposium. Curated by anthro- News and the tapestries on display in the TCCF. Students will be able pologist Ann Lane Hedlund, it their museum is a ‘must.’ The to work with collections held by features 30 Navajo rugs and tap- Alexandrian National Museum, Glasgow Museums, the National estry from the renowned Santa The Luxor Museum, and The Museums of Scotland, and the Fe Collection (also the subject Nubian Museum in Aswan all University’s Hunterian Museum of a 2004 book by Hedlund). Textiles in Egyptian have some galleries devoted to and Art Gallery. New academic Dating from the 1970s into the Museums newly installed textile exhibits. posts will be created, and the 1990s, these textiles represent Nancy Arthur Hoskins writes: And, of course, there are the Centre will work closely with the many styles handwoven by some The new Egyptian Textile contemporary textiles sold in all Foundation to establish a global of the most accomplished Navajo Museum in Cairo is now open of the colorful bazaars. Egypt is research network in textile con- weavers. Guided by interpretive to visitors. One can trace the rich with textile treasures. servation, textile and dress his- panels, visitors will be challenged history of Egyptian textiles from tory, and technical art history. to find elements that represent the time of the pharaohs through Arts & Culture Award Potential students may both traditional continuity and the Coptic and Islamic centuries Museum of Contemporary request information from Ailsa powerful changes in each hand- by touring the chronologically Craft, Portland, OR, announces Boyd, University of Glasgow at: woven artwork. arranged galleries. the receipt of a $40,000 Arts [email protected] or The textiles demonstrate the In October 2009, I was and Culture Grant from the Paul [email protected] fascinating and complex shift granted permission from Dr. Zahi G. Allen Family Foundation. The TCC Foundation exists from traditional craft to fine art. Hawass, Secretary General of the The grant supports Museum of to support textile conservation They move away from anony- Supreme Council of Egyptian Contemporary Craft’s integra- research and education in the mously made curios, functional Antiquities, to visit the museum tion with the Pacific Northwest UK. From 1975-1998 it ran the home furnishings, and trade prior to its opening. I met the College of Art by providing Textile Conservation Centre goods, to represent signed artistic Director, Dr. Samaya Said Zedan, funds to build capacity in the (TCC) based at Hampton expressions, focal display items, and the Curator, Sahar Ibrahim areas of fundraising, audience Court Palace. In 1998 the TCC El Sayed. Our Textiles of Egypt development, and memberships. merged with the University of Tour group was guided through http://www. Southampton at its Winchester the museum. Soft lighting and museumofcontemporarycraft.org campus. The University of documentation accompany each Southampton’s decision to close textile on exhibit. There are New Conservation the Textile Conservation Centre examples of whole textiles and Centre Preserves the on Oct. 31, 2009 was met with fragments from every phase of Fabric of the Nation international concern since, as a the textile history of Egypt—linen A new UK textile conserva- result, it was no longer possible loin cloths, Coptic tapestries, tion centre for interdisciplinary to train as a textile conservator in samitums, Islamic research and study will open the UK. The Foundation and its tiraz shawls, and magnificent in September at the University Trustees are delighted with this Islamic . A rustic of Glasgow, a joint project of latest outcome. loom is set up to show the the University and the Textile ancient way of the weaver. Conservation Centre Foundation The museum is located in (TCCF). The closure of the an interesting pedestrian area

Spring/Summer 2010 11 Tapestry NonProfit of Museum and Library Services. “Pretty Tough: Contemporary and early 19th centuries. The Revamps Organizational The Goldstein, the design Storytelling” at the Aldrich exhibition opening of “A in Structure museum of the University of Contemporary Art Museum in Time: Quilts from the Collection Minnesota, will provide online Ridgefield, CT, a group show of the Historical Society of the The Gloria F. Ross Center access to its collection of 26,200 where artists used storytell- Town of Greenwich,” the first- for Tapestry Studies, Inc., designed objects to students, ing and vintage techniques to ever exhibition of that organi- has transformed into the newly scholars, designers, artists, muse- address contemporary issues of zation’s distinguished holdings, established Gloria F. Ross (GFR) ums, and others with this web- warfare, the environment, and was supported. The Connecticut Tapestry Program at Arizona accessible tool. Approximately female struggles; and the Design Historical Society in Hartford State Museum. Founded in 1997 25% of the collection records, Center at Philadelphia University, received the final installment of a as an independent 501(c)(3) representing an overview of the which commissioned site-specific three-year grant for “Connecticut organization, the GFR Center has collections, will include photos of installations by internationally Needlework: Women and the produced numerous tapestry- the objects. As additional funding known artists and designers for Emergence of American Art, related programs and publica- is secured, the Goldstein will add “Lace in Translation,” drawing 1740-1840,” which opens this tions across the US during the images of the remainder of the inspiration from the Center’s summer. past 12 years. objects to its database. Textiles in historic lace collection. Coby The largest grants of 2009 The GFR Center opened the Goldstein collections include funds also underwrote the cata- went to an exhibition of boldly its doors at the University of designer fashions, ethnic textiles, logue for “Ethics + Aesthetics designed ikat textiles and a fash- Arizona in January, 2010. and swatches of interior furnish- = Sustainable Fashion Here ion website. Washington’s Textile Founding director Ann Lane ing fabrics from the design studio and Now,” at the Pratt Institute Museum received support for the Hedlund, who is now Program archives of Larsen Design. Gallery in Manhattan. exhibition and catalogue “Colors Director, said of the transfer, http:/www./goldstein.che.umn. figured in two con- of the Oasis: Central Asian “This removes the administrative edu temporary projects. One is a sec- Ikats,” opening in October, pre- burden and costs of operating tion of Esopus Magazine’s spring senting 65 textiles donated by an the GFR Center and frees us to 2010 issue, in which hand-knitter Istanbul-based collector. Fashion conduct more research and orga- Jared Flood and five other knit- designers Charles Frederick nize more programs. It makes ters created and documented an Worth and Mainbocher will be the organization less dependent Textile “exquisite corpse,” where each compared and contrasted on a on dwindling private founda- participant knit one segment website created by the Museum tion funding sources. We are Community of a woman’s sweater with no of the City of New York to high- fortunate in having a supportive knowledge of the designs of the light its extensive holdings of 220 home and like-minded colleagues News other segments. A grant also garments by these masters who at the Arizona State Museum.” went to the Hunterdon (NJ) Art span two centuries of American Identical to that of the Museum’s “Knitted, Knotted, fashion. original center, the mission of Netted,” a group exhibition of Other institutions receiv- the GFR Tapestry Program is to Coby Foundation contemporary . Other ing Coby funds included the foster the creative practice and Grants contemporary project grants University Press of New England cultural study of handwoven went to the Museum at FIT for for two books in its “Reading The Coby Foundation, Ltd. tapestries, produced and used “American Beauty: Aesthetics Dress” series about Emily continued its strong support of worldwide from ancient to mod- and Innovations in Fashion,” and Dickinson and Edith Wharton projects in fashion and textiles in ern times. Further details and to the Philadelphia Art Alliance and fashion, and the Staten 2009 with grants totaling ongoing projects are described for “The Sitting Room: Four Island Historical Society (through $418,000. While this was a in the GFR Tapestry Program’s Studies in Craft,” which explores the Historic House Trust) for a reduction from 2008 amounts, website. connections between craft and website featuring costumes and the Foundation still awarded http://www.tapestrycenter.org installation art. accessories from its collection. grants ranging from $6,800 to Inquiries may be addressed to Three Connecticut museums, $50,000 to 14 new projects, [email protected]. each with exhibitions explor- American Craft Council and continuing support to five ing the state’s needle arts his- Moves Headquarters Grant for projects. The only foundation tory, received Coby funds. The The American Craft Council, “GoldsteinOnline” in the country to focus solely Florence Griswold Museum in a national nonprofit organization Collection on the textile field, the Coby Old Lyme’s “With Needle and dedicated to championing con- Foundation, located in New York The Goldstein Museum of Brush: Schoolgirl Needlework of temporary American craft, will City, supports non-profit organi- Design’s online project “Design the Connecticut River Valley” relocate from New York City to zations in the mid-Atlantic and for Everyone: Increasing Access was the first scholarly docu- Minneapolis, MN, in July, 2010. Northeastern states. to Collections,” will be able mentation of the region as an The new quarters will house While the Coby Foundation to increase online access to its important center for the teaching its offices, its magazine, American supports projects in all cultures collections in the fall of 2010, and production of embroidered Craft, and its library—the nation’s and time periods, contemporary thanks to a Museums for pictures by young girls in private largest library collection of print exhibitions were of particular America grant from the Institute academies during the late 18th and visual materials on American interest in 2009. They included

12 tsa newsletter craft. Containing more than developed the design for a still being used in many places [email protected]. 6,400 books, 7,000 exhibition weaving bench—“a culturally, around the world. Synergo Arts A demo video of the catalogs, 700 bound volumes of environmentally, and economi- seeks to enable access to the bench can be viewed online on leading periodicals, a substantial cally viable alternative to the tra- bench globally, and to help Synergo’s website: collection of artist files and accom- ditional kneeling posture.” communities build their own http://www.synergoarts.org panying database, the library will In 2005 prototypes of the infrastructure for fabrication, – Karen Searle be available to the public. bench were built by a local car- distribution, promotion, train- The American Craft Council penter and tested by 150 weav- ing–and even micro-financing–of joins a number of nationally- ers from nine communities in the weaving benches, so that out- The UK Textile known art and craft organizations the Guatemalan Highlands who side support is not necessary. The Society’s London in the Twin Cities, including the were members of artisan coop- organization currently provides a Antique Textile Fair Minneapolis Institute of Arts, the eratives. Weavers who tested the start-up kit, along with technical Walker Art Center, the American bench reported that they were support for manufacture, and The UK Textile Society Association of Woodturners, relieved of pain, numbness, and instruction for weavers. Synergo launches its first London Antique the Northern Clay Center, the fatigue. All were able to increase also offers a train-the-trainer Textile Fair on Sun. Sept. 26 at Minnesota Center for Book Arts, their weaving time and improve educational program to empower Kensington Town Hall to com- and The Textile Center. production. The women also artisans to learn to use the bench plement its highly successful and http://www.craftcouncil.org described a feeling of more hope and to teach others in their com- long-running Manchester Fair, for the future. munities to use it. now in its 18th year. Over 100 The weaving bench adjusts Synergo’s Mayan training dealers from the UK and Europe Synergo Arts Weaving to the weaver’s body. It rocks collaborator in Guatemala, Juana will assemble during London Bench Project back and forth with the rhythm Ramos, says of the bench, “It Design Week to sell quality Ergonomist Karen Piegorsch of the weaving. A foot rest has brought me great personal antique costumes and textiles founded the nonprofit organiza- provides leverage and stability. benefits, both physical and men- from the 17th century to the tion Synergo Arts to maximize Because it is adjustable, one tal. I’m very interested in being 1970s. The Textile Society is a health, income, performance, bench can be used by several able to continue helping other charity that awards grants to tex- productivity, creativity, and craft family members. Manufacturing women in the world reduce the tile students and museums with quality for artisans around the of the benches will begin this fatigue and pain that their bodies funds raised from the fairs. For world by designing systems, tools, summer in the Lake Atitlan endure while weaving. Then they further information, please visit: work methods and environments region of Guatemala. Synergo will be better able to appreci- http://www.textilesociety.org.uk to support human capabilities. has worked hard to make the ate their own efforts, talent, and The Weaving Bench project benches affordable and available. skills as they carry on their craft.” Dream Rocket In Guatemala alone, there Visit Synergo’s website to is a prime example of ergonom- Dates Set for Wrapping, ics in action. During several visits are an estimated half-million learn more, or to donate to Exhibits to Guatemala to observe and backstrap weavers, and the this project. To correspond interview Mayan backstrap weav- backstrap weaving technique is with Karen Piegorsch, email The wrapping with art from ers, Karen Piegorsch learned of around the world of the 37- the physical toll that this type of story-tall Saturn V Rocket replica weaving exacts from the women standing at the U.S. Space & in this society. As a weaver Rocket Center in Huntsville, AL, straps the loom around her hips has been rescheduled to coincide and kneels on the ground, rock- with the 50th anniversary of the ing back and forth to maintain historic first moon walk. In May tension on the threads, pain, and June 2011, the ship will be numbness, and fatigue often limit transformed into the world’s the length of time she is able largest collaborative art project. to work. Many of the weavers Jennifer Marsh, founder of the Karen interviewed were emotion- Dream Rocket project says “The ally moved that someone cared wrappings will consist of over about their physical well-being. 8,000 fabric and mixed-media She notes, “Despite disabling panels representing dreams for symptoms, women weavers push our future and visions of our past.” their bodies through fatigue and Because of the difficulty pain in order to provide for their of wrapping the Saturn V families. This pattern sets up a rocket, the International Fiber vicious cycle which ultimately Collaborative requests a fee to Educational field worker Juana Ramos explains the benefits of the ergonomic degrades earning potential.” participate. A 12” x 12” mini- weaving bench to members of a Mayan Hands artisan cooperative near After carefully studying the Solola, Guatemala, while a co-op member demonstrates its use. The adjust- Dream Theme panel is $25. weavers’ movements, Karen able bench alleviates physical stress while weaving, allowing for increased production. Photo: Karen Searle.

Spring/Summer 2010 13 A 2 ft. x 2 ft. Dream Theme machine, photocopier, Panel is $100, and a 4 ft. x 4 camera, paint, toner and ink. ft. Visionary Panel is $400. “In Schulze’s mastery of tech- an effort to give everyone who Exhibition nique, of piecing together per- would like to participate that sonal experience, and her keen opportunity, the Dream Rocket Reviews observations make her work team seeks sponsors, both indi- as challenging as it is beautiful. vidual and corporate. Curator Deborah Corsini, in her catalog essay, cites “Private Panels Exhibited Lives” (2009) as a “rich example Until the wrapping begins, Joan Schulze’s Poetic License of Schulze’s sophisticated col- exhibits of selected panels are San Jose Museum of “The Angel Equation” by Joan Schulze. lage aesthetic and her innovative being scheduled in diverse ven- approach to capturing numerous Quilts & Textiles ues. Currently on the list are images to create a compositional Feb. 26-May 9 square. It was made on a 24-inch Educational Gallery Group (Eg2), whole.” Besides quilts and prints, hoop, before Schulze West Palm Beach, FL; Great the exhibition offers visitors a he 40-year retrospective moved into her San Francisco Explorations Childrens Museum, look at scrolls, an artist’s book, exhibition of art quilter Joan studio. “I was still working in the St. Petersburg, FL; Mulberry T and sculptural pieces. Series of Schulze’s work at the San Jose laundry room!” she laughs. This Street Library, New York, NY; haiku prints (2002) and tanka Museum of Quilts & Textiles has work captures one of Schulze’s Warren Co. Public Library, quilts (2004) reflect her appre- been a celebration! It’s a celebra- beloved road trips. “I love to just Bowling Green, KY; Central ciation for these Asian forms, as tion of Schulze personally, her drive,” she says. It also serves as Library, Conroe, TX; Dr. Martin well as her fluency in both poetic commitment to her craft, and her a metaphor for her approach Luther King Jr. Library, San Jose, and visual expression. spirit—curious about the world, to planning and the realization CA; Randolph School, Huntsville, “This exhibit is among the enthusiastic, generous to others, of an idea. “I never sketch the AL; New Britain Public Library, most written-about shows in and determined to keep mov- whole thing, because one thing New Britain, CT; Earlyworks the Museum’s history,” says ing forward. It’s a celebration of leads to another. You have to be Childrens Museum, Huntsville, Deputy Director Connie DeWitt. her pioneering artwork; of quilts’ willing to change your mind...The AL; and the Eclipse Gallery, Schulze describes the response rightful place in the art world; of road, around the bend, is some- Algoma, WI. Additional venues as “validating.” She continues, “I international dialog. It’s a celebra- thing wonderful, just waiting.” and dates can be found on the feel blessed on so many fronts. tion of the publication of her Entering new territory is Dream Rocket website. After the The past weeks have been full extraordinary book/catalog, Poetic exciting to Schulze, even when 60-day wrapping of the moon of accolades. My eyes rain a little License: The Art of Joan Schulze. the impetus is disagreeable. A rocket in May and June 2011, a water now and then...” This sum- Following the official opening’s painful sensitivity to fabric devel- three-year museum tour is being mer, Schulze will focus on com- daylong special events, including oped in 1987, causing her hands scheduled. pleting her third book of poetry, a standing-room-only reception, to crack and bleed. “Holding a The Dream Rocket is a finishing a quilt collaboration Schulze felt “wonderful!” needle made it worse,” she says. project of the International Fiber with granddaughter Mackenzie, Some of the opening attend- The need for creams and gloves Collaborative, a non-profit orga- and preparing for a trip to China ees were ardent fans. One had triggered a switch to machine nization that enables people to in the autumn. Who knows what taken Schulze’s first workshop in quilting. “Apparition” (1989) is collaborate with other communi- else is waiting just beyond the 1975 and saved all the handouts, one of her earliest two-sided quilts. ties and countries worldwide on bend? specific projects. which she brought to the recep- Liz Hager, writing in Venetian –Suzanne Smith Arney http://www.thedreamrocket.com tion. Schulze was deeply touched Red, describes Schulze as “an by this reconnection to her early inveterate experimenter, whose career. “I’d lost my first resume,” longstanding penchant for uncon- she told me later. “She filled in ventional materials is abundantly that history.” on view.” While her fundamen- One of the quilts from tal expression has always been that early period, “California stitching, her toolbox includes II” (1979), measures eight feet fabric, paper, thread, a personal

TSA NEWSLETTER DEADLINES March 30 • July 30 • November 30 Please send news, exhibition reviews, book reviews, conference reviews, event listings, and articles to: Karen Searle, Editor tel 651/642-9897 [email protected]

TSA Newsletter Staff: Karen Searle, Editing, Layout “Mackenzie’s Quilt,” a work in pro- One of the Dream Rocket panels Susan Ward, Copy Editing, Charlotte Cosby, Proofreading cess by Joan Schulze and grand- collected so far. daughter, Mackenzie. 14 tsa newsletter Niaz Zaman discusses several break free from the constraints of Post-minimalist artists such women’s household activities modernism. The author, an asso- as Robert Morris and Eva Hesse which influence kanthas, the ciate professor of contemporary experimented with soft materials Book blending and merging of Muslim art at the University of Colorado, and, by gaining positive critical and Hindu concepts in kanthas, has chosen a few artists work- acceptance, unwittingly increased Reviews and the significance of introduc- ing during a specific period of the status of the fiber art field. ing writing in kanthas, since most time to illustrate how fiber art Although fiber art has remained village women making them has always fallen into “a space in the “space between” fine art were illiterate. The concluding between art and craft.” and craft, Auer observes, “fiber essay by TSA member Anne Auer cites the historic 1969 art played a pivotal role in the : The Embroidered Peranteau analyzes the tech- “Wall Hangings” exhibition at reassessment of formalist practice Quilts of Bengal, from The nique and design of kantha and the Museum of Modern Art, that began in the mid-to-late 60s Jill and Sheldon Bonovitz provides an overview of numer- New York, curated by Mildred in the American art world.” Collection and The Stella ous influences upon the evolu- Constantine and Jack Lenor The feminist art movement Kramrisch Collection of The tion of kantha. The essays give a Larsen, as a catalytic event that and its accompanying scholarship Philadelphia Museum of Art solid background on the role and set off a surge in the explora- politicized the art/craft divide Edited by Darielle Mason, with importance of kanthas and the tion of fiber as a contemporary and challenged the exclusion of essays by Pika Ghosh, Katherine techniques and motifs used in art medium. During the same women from the fine art estab- Hacker, Darielle Mason, Anne their production. time period, the Feminist Art lishment. Auer cites the work of Peranteau, and Niaz Zaman. The second portion of the Movement of the 1970s and Faith Ringgold, Miriam Shapiro, book contains illustrations of the early 80s sought to elevate the Judy Chicago, and Harmony Philadelphia: Philadelphia 85 works in the Kramrisch and status of “women’s art forms,” Hammond as being particularly Museum of Art in association Bonovitz Collections (only 46 of including needlework, as valid art influential to the development with Yale University Press, 2009. which were in the exhibition). media. She traces the effects of of fiber art during this period. Stella Kramrisch, over her long fiber art and feminist art on the Ringgold modeled her paintings ssued in conjunction with and distinguished career in India status of fiber in contemporary on Tibetan tangka, framing them I a major exhibition at the and Philadelphia, played a piv- art. Current trends in fiber art are with quilted borders. Shapiro Philadelphia Museum of Art, otal role in introducing kantha to dealt with in her conclusion. incorporated “women’s mate- this magnificent volume is in western audiences. Mason gives a Auer identifies three primary rial culture”–including lace and two parts. The first part con- biographical sketch of Kramrisch influences that shaped the field textiles–into her paintings in an tains essays which describe and reprints her famous 1939 of fiber art: the designer/crafts- art form she named “femmage.” and define the kantha quilting essay on kantha. Jill and Sheldon man model developed by the Chicago involved weavers and tradition within Bengali culture. Bonovitz are contemporary col- Bauhaus; French art tapestry; needleworkers in the production Darielle Mason, in an introduc- lectors. Mason introduces them and feminist artists who worked of large, collaborative installation tory essay, acquaints readers with through an interview on their in craft media. She attributes works. Hammond developed a the distinctive quilting tradition approaches to collecting the art the reluctance of art historians “personally-based feminine art” of Bangladesh and West Bengal, of self-taught artists, and on how and critics to accept fiber art to with her fabric-wrapped sculptures. India, that stitches layers of old they became interested in collect- prevailing art theories that con- Other influences on the cotton clothing into useful house- ing kanthas. sidered craft to be non-art. This fiber field at this time are noted: hold articles. In her two essays Anyone with an interest in view began to change gradually the Quilt Show at the Whitney Pika Ghosh first gives a present- quilting or folk art will definitely as artists with fine arts training, Museum that exhibited quilts as day account of kantha in Kolkata love this volume! such as Lenore Tawney, Neda abstract art; and several major (Calcutta) society, the uses it has, – Donald Clay Johnson Al-Hilali, Barbara Shawcroft, exhibitions showing Navajo and why it is so revered. Then Ed Rossbach, and others chose blankets as art. The rise of instal- in the second essay she delves the fiber medium for their con- lation art, the internationalization into the origins of the numerous ceptual works. Many of these of the contemporary art world String Felt Thread: The motifs found in kanthas, show- artists also taught in university art with a resulting shift in curatorial Hierarchy of Art and Craft in ing the intimate relationships departments, exerting a profound practice are also mentioned as American Art and commonalities designs have influence on the emerging field. influences. across different mediums. Elissa Auther Unfortunately, the simultaneous In her conclusion, Auer sum- Katherine Hacker’s essay University of Minnesota Press, popular revival of crafts during marizes the intense fiber activity surveys the historic roles kanthas 2010 the 1970s worked against the of the 60s and 70s as a “stage have played over the last several ISBN 978081665609-7 paper acceptance of fiber as art, mak- setting for present work.” She centuries. In particular she dis- ISBN 9780816656080 Hardcover ing it more difficult for fiber includes the work of artists from cusses Gurusaday Dutt, an Indian artists to distinguish their work. the 1990s to the present who Civil Service official, who during his focused study traces “Establishing one’s art as art” is use fiber to address many of the the British period collected folk Tthe development of the fiber still a challenge for artists work- same issues of exclusion that art in rural Bengal. His acquisi- medium in contemporary art ing in craft media. were being addressed during the tions became a museum in India. during the 1960s and 70s–a time 1960s and 70s. She says, “Fiber

Spring/Summer 2010 15 not only continues to be used to Quilts.” Both exhibition and address issues of gender, book examine the history behind race, and personal experience, 50 outstanding pieces from the originating in the feminist museum’s collection. appropriation of the material, http://www.americanmuseum. but has also been expanded org to include issues of hybridity, memory, sexual identity, loss, tradition, cultural collision, global- ization, migration, among others.” This study makes an impor- tant contribution toward estab- Calls for lishing an accurate art-historical context for fiber art. papers

– Karen Searle “The Dude Abides,” needlepoint by Stephen Beal, 16,5” x 12”.

Beal from p. 5 Topics for the needlepoint canvases run the gamut from Due Oct. 10: Material Culture, Ypsilanti, MI; his step-sister, Joan abstract meditations on qualities Craft & Community: Negotiating Comfort Johnson of Marblehead, of light, as in “Sunrise,” to the Publication Objects Across Time & Place, MA, a cousin, Samuel Turner, wacky world of pop culture in May 20-21, 2011, University of Memphis, TN, and many “The Dude Abides.” In every News of Alberta Material Culture other cousins, nieces, nephews, case the composition is rigor- Institute. Keynote Speaker: and friends. He was preceded in ous, a framework upon which Laurel Thatcher Ulrich, Harvard death by his parents. to structure the colours that University. Organizer Beverly A memorial celebration will be bring life to the idea. Particularly Lemire, Department of History held at the Loveland Museum on delightful are the pieces that fibreQUARTERLY & Classics and Department of Sunday, May 16, at 4:00 pm. layer formal aesthetic concerns Human Ecology, University of The Canadian online maga- with form, colour in all its subtle- Alberta. Send proposals to: – Linda Ligon zine fibreQuarterly, volume 5 ties, and a nuanced content, [email protected] Issue 4, winter 2009-10 is now Beal’s Artwork so that the more the viewer http://www.wornthrough. available. It contains several happens to know about the par- com/2010/03/22/cfp-material- For Stephen, the sensory experi- articles related to surface design. ticular subject matter, the more culture-craft-community- ence of colour, from its most An annual PDF Anthology of insight is revealed—as in “Ike negotiating-objects-across-time- mundane and predictable to articles is also available online. and Mamie Visit the Farnsworth place its most shockingly exuber- With the winter 2010 issue, ant, was a good reason to be House.” editor Joe Lewis marks five years Due September 1: 8th North alive. He came to needlepoint The most recent piece, of reporting on the Canadian American Textile Conservation at least in part because it was a “Fauntleroy Plantation,” was a textile art scene, providing pro- Conference (NATC) in Oaxaca, good excuse to enjoy the satu- new direction, an exploration files of artists and reviews of rated hues of the thread. But, into the melding of personal and Mexico, the Trades: exhibitions. fibreQUARTERLY is already an accomplished poet, political histories. In this grouping Pulling Together in the 21st seeking members of a volunteer he brought much more to the the artist meticulously stitched Century, Nov. 8-11, 2011. advisory committee to assist in Abstracts may be submitted to pursuit as well—a bending of the the inventory of chattels of an developing a long-range plan. Beth Szuhay, [email protected]. heart, a wry amusement at the ancestor’s estate, naming his Regional editors and reporters For detailed information, visit: foibles of imperfect humans, and slaves, and then made celebra- who can track events in their http://www.natcc.net underneath a firm conviction tory banners for each individual areas are also sought. that one’s first duty as a human as a way to honor his or her http://www.velvethighway.com is to interrogate the world with humanity, presence on earth, kindness and clarity. and individuality. We have lost Quilt Exhibition Catalog the opportunity to see what Classic Quilts from the American came next, and this is a sad loss Museum in Britain, published by indeed. Stephen will be sorely Scala, retails at £19.99. The missed by all who cherish him curatorial staff of the American and also by those who knew him Museum in Britain, Laura only through his quiet, relentless, Beresford and Katherine Herbert, unforgettable work. have produced a lavishly illus- – Fran Dorsey trated book to accompany the exhibition “Classic American

16 tsa newsletter Exhibitions District of Columbia Fuller Craft Museum, The Textile Museum. May Brockton. May 29-Feb. 26, 2011: United States 15-Sept. 12: “Art by the Yard: “The New Materiality: Digital Women Design Mid-Century Dialogues at the Boundaries of Calendar California Britain.” Featuring over 50 Contemporary Craft.” Bowers Museum, Santa Ana. fabrics by Lucienne Day (1917- http://www.fullercraft.org Mar. 27-July 25: “Secrets of the 2010), Jacqueline Groag (1903- Silk Road,” 150 objects drawn 1985) and Marian Mahler Nebraska from the rich collections of the (1911-1983)—three women International Quilt Study Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous designers who turned their back Center & Museum, Lincoln. Below is a brief listing of some Region Museum and the Xinjiang on wartime austerity with color- To Aug. 1: “Quilts Under the upcoming Textile-related events. Institute of Archaeology in ful and playful textile patterns. Microscope.” Presenting a group See the TSA website or follow Urumqi, China. http://www.textilemuseum.org of carefully studied quilts that individual links for detailed infor- http://www.bowers.org divulge some of the secrets of mation about each event. Smithsonian American their past and help determine De Young Museum, San Art Museum. To Sept. 26: the best way to safeguard them Conferences & Francisco. To June 6: “Amish “Christo and Jeanne-Claude: for the future. May 15-Nov. 7: Abstractions.” July 3-Sept. 26: Remembering the Running “South Asian Seams: Quilts from Symposia “To Dye For: A World Saturated Fence, Sonoma and Marin India, Pakistan, & Bangladesh.” in Color,” textiles and costumes Counties, California.” Patchwork, embroidery, and May 27: “Dressing the Dead, from the collection. http:www.americanart.si.edu applique all figure prominently in Clothing, Textiles, and Bodily http://www.deyoungmuseum.org rallis, a traditional quilted textile Adornment from Funerary Iowa of the region. Contexts in the Graeco-Roman Los Angeles County Museum Vesterheim, the Norwegian- htp://www.quiltstudy.org World.” University of Sheffield, UK. of Art. Oct. 2-Apr. 3, 2011; American Museum, Decorah. http://www.shef.ac.uk/ “Fashioning Fashion: European To Mar. 20, 2011: “Pieces of New Mexio archaeology/conferences/ Dress in Detail, 1700-1915.” Self: Identity and Norwegian- Museum of International dressing-dead.html http://www.lacma.org American Quilts,” expressions Folk Art, Santa Fe. To Sept. 11: of gender, family, community, “Material World: Textiles and Jan.15, 2011: “The Fifth San Jose Museum of Quilts religious, and ethnic identity in Dress from the Collection.” Triennial R.L. Shep Symposium & Textiles. To May 9: “Poetic quilts from the collection. http://www.internationalfolkart. on Textiles and Dress,” Los License: The Art of Joan Schulze.” http://www.vesterheim.org org Angeles County Museum of May 18-Aug. 8: “Hawaii’s Alfred Art. Held in conjunction with Shaheen: Fabric to Fashion” co- Massachusetts New York “Fashioning Fashion: European curated by Deborah Corsini American Textile History Dorsky Gallery Curatorial Dress in Detail, 1700-1915.” and Hawaiian textile scholar Museum, Lowell. Apr. 17-July Programs, Long Island City. Featured speaker: Akiko Fukai, Dr. Linda Arthur, featuring 25: “More Than a Number.” Apr. 11-June 27: “Assembling Director and Chief Curator, objects from the collection of Work by Khmer artist Yary Narratives: Quilting Impulses Kyoto Costume Institute. Camille Shaheen-Tunberg, Alfred Livan, and “Jum (Remember),” in Contemporary Art” presents http://www.lacma.org Shaheen’s daughter. Yardage by painted portraits of Killing the work of six artists—Sabrina Shaheen and men’s, women’s Fields survivors on rough silk Gschwandtner, Karolyn Hatton, April 1, 2011: IQSC and children’s garments that con- by Rachel Faller. Jun.15-Aug. 1: Faith Ringgold, Donna Sharrett, Symposium, “Quilted and jure Hawaii’s complex cultural “Inspired Design: Lasell College John Sims, and Anna Von Corded Needle-work: A Closer history are shown, along with at ATHM.” Mertens—who appropriate quilt- Look.” Invited speakers include archival photos. May 18- Aug. http://www.athm.org making as a symbolic reposi- Linda Baumgarten, Curator 6: “Grand Appliqué: Hawaiian tory of personal and communal of Textiles and Costumes at Quilts,” traditional Hawaiian quilts experiences. Curated by Donna the Colonial Williamsburg made and designed by master Harkavy and Flavia Zuñiga-West. Foundation, and Kathryn quilter Carol Kamaile and her stu- http://www.dorsky.org Berenson, guest curator of the dents. “Wendeanne Ke’aka Stitt: coming exhibition “Marseille: Contemporary Kapa,” contempo- Metropolitan Museum of Art. White Corded Quilting,” and rary works by the Santa Cruz art- To Aug. 15: American Woman: author of Quilts of Provence and ist inspired by the Hawaiian kapa Fashioning a National Identity. the forthcoming Marseille: The cloth tradition. http://www.metmuseum.org Cradle of White Corded Quilting. http:www.sjquiltmuseum.org http://www.iqsc.org “Pink Hibiscus” by Carol Kamaile; Appliquéd and Quilted by Linda Orion, on view at San Jose Museum of Quilts & Textiles.

Spring/Summer 2010 17 “Blue Canyon Transition,” woven by Larry Yazzie, 1994, 62” x 36” (The Santa Fe Collection) can be seen in the Navajo weaving exhibition “A Turning Point” at the Nebraska State Museum. The Museum at FIT, New International Timeless Excursions-India, led Color and Dyes. Elena Phipps, York. May 25-Nov. 26: “Eco- by Renu Tawadey, specializes “Cochineal Red: The Art History Fashion: Going Green.” in visits to master weavers and of a Color;” Barbara Berrie, Canada http://www.fitnyc.edu/museum embroiderers of Rajastan and Senior Conservation Scientist, Textile Museum of Canada, Gujarat. For schedule, email: Conservation Division, National Toronto. April 7-Sept. 6: “Person Oregon [email protected] Gallery of Art, Washington, DC, Place Thing,” featuring Lia Cook, Museum of Contemporary http://www.timelessexcursions. “Renaissance Venetian Color: David R. Harper and Stephen Craft, Portland. To June 26: com A Material Thing;” and Jenny Schofield. “Gestures of Resistance.” Balfour-Paul, Honorary Research http://www.textilemuseum.ca http://museumofcontemporary- Katharine Green India Tours Fellow, Institute of Arab and craft.org For fall schedule, email Islamic Studies, University of ngland E [email protected] Exeter, Fellow of the Royal The American Museum in Pennsylvania Geographical Society and partner Britain, Bath. Mar. 12-Oct. 32: in Silk Road Connect, “Indigo: Institute of Contemporary Art Workshops in Guatemala, “Classic American Quilts.” 50 his- From Mummies to Blue Jeans—A Art, University of Pennsylvania, art, weaving and photography toric quilts spanning the history Universal Story.” Philadelphia. To Aug. 7: classes; textile tour Nov. 8-18. of the craft. Catalog (see p.16). http://www.metmuseum.org “Unbiased Weaves: Sheila Hicks: http://www.artguat.org http://www.americanmuseum. Fifty Years.” org July 18: DeYoung Museum. http://www.icaphila.org Maryhill Museum has loaned some 1946 couture fashion dolls “Mystic Iban Textiles of Sarawak, Malaysian Borner,” Edric Ong. Pittsburgh Center for Tours to the exhibition “The Golden http://famsf.org the Arts. To Aug. 22: Age of Couture” at the Victoria “FIBERARTinternational 2010.” Textile Odyssey Tours with and Albert Museum , London, July: World Shibori Network http:www.contemporarycraft.org Serena Lee Harrigan. For infor- and is organizing a tour in June, mation on the Nov. tour to 2010 for the exhibition opening. presents two summer natural dye http://www.maryhillmuseum.org workshops in Puglia, Italy with Texas Yunnan, Guizhou, and Guangxi, China, email natural dye expert Michel Garcia Contemporary Arts Museum, [email protected] and resist dye expert Yoshiko I. Houston. “Hand + Made: The Lectures & Wada. For details, see: Performative Impulse in Art and Tia Stephanie Tours presents http://www.shibori.org Craft.” Workshops cultural journeys to Mexico. For http://www.camh.org the 2010 schedule, visit: June 6: Metropolitan Museum http://www.tiastephanietours.com of Art (NYC). Three lectures on

18 tsa newsletter