THINLINE M81A MBB NEAR PURE ACCURACY! QUARTZ PROVEN RELIABIL TY! Clock Movement •Accurate to-+1 minute a year (59°F to 77°F) ACTUAL SIZE •Movement size : 2-7/8 x 2-3/8 x 1-1/8 inches. AT BALANCE WHEEL •Runs over a year on a PRICES! standard "C" cell. REDUCED IN SIZE DIMENSIONS: 2-3/16 inches square x 5/8 inch thick. Center post diameter only 5/16 inch. The M81 A is a powerhouse! It converts the battery's The works can be enclosed within a case less electrical energy into torque to drive the hands more than 3/4 inch thick. than twice as efficiently as a transistorized balance wheel ACCURACY: Within±10 seconds per month. movement. By any standard of comparison the M81 A BATTERY: Runs over a year on a standard "A" is the superlative movement. penlight battery, and much longer on the alkaline type. Regular movement mounts on dials up to 7 /16" thick. SECOND HAND: if used, steps off the seconds Also available with long center post to mount on slabs at precise one second intervals. to 3/4" thick: Order No . M81A-LCP.
ONE VEAR GUARANTEE TWO VEAR GUARANTEE
M81 M81A M88 M81 Step Second Quartz Movement - 2 year guarantee. M81A Continuous Second Quartz "Power House" Movement available regular and long post - 2 year guarantee. M88 New Thin and Compact Quartz Movement - Step Second - 1 year guarantee.
ALL THREE MOVEMENTS AT THE SAME PRICE Assorting allowed. Prices include Brass or Black Finish Hands, Nuts, and Hangars. 1 or 2 $9.50 each 25@ $ 6.00 each All THREE MOVEMENTS 3 to 9 $8.00 each 10 to 24 $7.00 each 100@ $5.50 each • 4, 194,304 Hz Quartz Crystal Oscillator Hour and Minute Hands Included Add $2.00 per order for •Operational Range 14°F to 122°F Add $ .2 5 Each for Second Hands Shi p ping to 48 states. •Slide Switch, exact to the second setting NEW CATALOG No. 179, COST $1.00, or FREE ON REQUEST WITH ORDER FOR MOVEMENTS. r------~------, I ORDER BLANK I II _ M81 Movements @ $ $ 1 I _M81AMovements @ $ $ Name ------1I I _ M81A-LCP Movements@$ $ Address I I _ M88 Movements @ $ $ I I _ Second Hands@ $.25 $ City/State/Zip I I _ Catalog No. 179 $ no/charge I I Return to: I _ Shipping and Handling $ 2 -00 I I TOTAL CAS-KER Co., P.O. Box 2347, Drawer A, I $ Cincinnati, Ohio 45201 I L------~ P.O. BOX 2347, DRAWER A CINCINNATI, OHIO 45201 Cas-~&rr Co. TEL: (513) 241-7075 IMPORTERS-MANUFACTURERS-DISTRIBUTORS: DIAMONDS, JEWELRY, MATERIAL AND SUPPLIES ... It appears that HOROLOGICAL TIMES has increased in number of pages ... an obvious attempt to better serve its readers.. • VOLUME 4, NUMBER 2 FEBRUARY, 1980
®
H ROLOGICAL
Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute
THE PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE Kansas City LESLIE L. SMITH 4 Pay Your Association Officers a Compliment Watchmakers QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS HENRY B. FRIED 6 Wooden Grandfather Organize
JOSEPH RUGOLE WATCH ADJUSTMENTS 10 Hairspring Co/lets: Part JI
ARCHIE B. PERK.INS TECHNICALLY WATCHES 14 Fancy and Pocket Watch Crystals The Plight of
ROBERT F. BISHOP AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN 18 An Essential for Local Guilds PURPLE
MARVIN E. WHITNEY THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER 24 Some Rare and Unusual Chronometers
MILTON C. STEVENS 30 AWi NEWS Forged Checks: You Can Protect Yourself Savary to
STEVEN G. CONOVER CHIME AND STRIKE 36 The New Haven Chime Movement Address the
PICKLE BARREL WMJDA MARSHALL F. RICHMOND 40 Ring Sizing
IN THE SPOTLIGHT ORVILLE R. HAGANS 44 Antide Janvier: Clockmaker of Genius Ladies like SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING JOSEPH RUGOLE 46 Do You Know a Future Watchmaker? THIN ... CLOCK CHATTER OTTO BENESH 48 The Bell Standard ... too!
THE ROCK QUARRY FRED S. BURCKHARDT 52 Amethyst: The Untold Story DEPARTMENTS
Our Readers Write / 12 Horological Times ISSN0145-9546 is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watch Bench Tips / 32 makers Institute, Harold J. Herman, Editor, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Reprint New Members/ 53 ing and reproduction is prohibited without permission from the American Watchmakers Institute. AWI Bench Courses / 54 Subscription, $30.00 per year, $4.00 per copy in the United States and $36.00 per year, $5.00 per News in the Trade/ 60 copy outside the United States. Second class postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. Copyright©1980 by the American Watchmakers Institute. New Products/ 63 Classified Ads / 66 Dates to Remember/ 68 Advertiser's Index / 68 H &Jilori"a/
Executive and Editorial Offices AWi Central P.O. Box 11011 Some thoughts 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838 for the times here are certain times when a little carelessness can mean bigger Harold]. Herman: Editor problems than usual, and now is one of those times. To be successful Thomas J. Herman: Managing Editor T Virginia C. Montgomery: Associate Editor in business during wild inflationary times, a continual look at tomorrow is necessary. LuAnn Martin: Art Director Sue Scott: Business Manager Keep a sharp lookout on gold pricing. Even though you may have stocked a gold item last fall and tagged it at keystone, be sure to retag it at current Mildred Howard: Circulation Manager Lee Rothan: Circulation gold prices. Remember, if you do not, you will not have sufficient capital to restock your store with the volume and variety of merchandise your Technical Editors: customers are used to seeing before they make their selections. Otto Benesh Archie B. Perkins James H. Broughton Marshall F. Richmond As for watch accounts receivable, times such as we are experiencing cause Fred S. Burckhardt Joseph Rugole people to become lax in their promptness. Gentle reminders by way of Steven G. Conover Leslie L. Smith Joe Crooks William 0. Smith, Jr. the telephone are appropriate. Over-extension of credit is very dangerous. Paul Fisk Jam es L. Tigner You need more and m.ore dollars in order to continue to operate. Henry B. Fried Marvin E. Whitney Orville R. Hagans In spite of all temptations, don't forget the value of generosity-particularly Ewell D. Hartman Gerald G. Jaeger where or~ianized efforts turn small donations into big dividends. The Sean C. Monk Educational, Library, and Museum Trust of the American Watchmakers Robert A. Nelson Institute has collected watch cells in order to finance scholarships for deserving students of watchmaking and clockmaking. Continue to help A WI Officers: preserve and expand the library and museum. The very small amounts Leslie L. Smith, CMW, CEWS: President of income derived individually from watch cells do mount up and allow Joe Crooks: 1st Vice President potential talent to blossom. Continue with your generosity in sending Karl Buttner, CMW : 2nd Vice President cells to AW I. Charles H. Mann: Secretary Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC: Treasurer
A WI Directors: On the front Dorothy M. Aderman Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D. James H. Broughton, CEWS Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC Ewell D. Hartman, CMW "Prickly Heat" Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CEWS Donald W. Leverenz, CMW · On our February cover is a view of the Salt River Sean C. Monk, CMW" Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CEWS Canyon in south-central Arizona. The Salt River Eric R. Samuel, CMW is formed by the joining of the White and Black rivers, and it in turn feeds into the Gila River near Phoenix. Five dams form artificial lakes along the Robert F. Bishop: Affiliate Chapter Director Salt River and provide irrigation for the valley. Joseph Rugole, CMW: Research and Education In the foreground are Prickly Pear cacti Council Chairman which produce flowers and, in some varieties, edible fruit.
Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director Quality Clock Movements
# 300 Transistor Quartz Insert Movement Housed in a dust free cap # 450 Quartz # 600 sule, this reliable move Complete W/Dial - Hands ment represents your best value today in a transistor clock movement, Runs for over a year on a single 'C' Precise timekeeping is now cell and accurate to within available for the clock in 10 seconds per day The 75 stallation and replacement low price combined with $ 5. In Quantity trouble free se rvice make markets. These units are this unit an exceptional ready to install quickly and value $ 5. OO In Quantity economically. Comes com 1 or 2@ $6.75-3 to 9 @ $6.25-10 to 24 @ 2 3 / 8" x 2 13/ 16" x 7 / 8" plete with brushed brass S5 .75-25 to 49@ S5 .25-50 to 99 @ $5.00 finished bezel -dial & hands. 1or2@ $18.95 each each. Write for quantities over 100. Extreme accuracy is now available Available in 3" -33/e" 4 " diam. 3 to 9@ $16.95 each ALMOST AS SMALL at very moderate cost for customers AS A WATCH! # 475 that demand precise time keeping. # 650 Quartz Insert Weighing only 1.25 Tiny Quartz Movement Only ounces. this Versatile Quality features such as high quartz Movement will carry a osci I lat ion of 4 .1 94304 MHz. sweep second hand and run for over one year on a Assures reliable time keeping as single "AA" cell-only 9 / 16" thick this com well as accuracy. The small di The same movement as used pact unit can be fit into mensions are ideal for all jobs. Fully in the above insert complete. any type case or panel. A Runs on AA Pen lite Cells. Can single center nut enables warranted for one year. $5.75 In Quantity be installed 3 ways, friction, the movement to be easi fixing screw or case screws. ly fixed to a dial. The hand 1 or2 @ $8.75-3to Only 2 3/a" diameter for easy setting knob. seconds [email protected] 1or2 @ SB.75-3 to9 @ S7 .50-10to 24@ 1 or 2@ Sl 1.95 each setter. and battery com @S6.75-25 to 49 56.75-25 to 49 @ S6.00-50to 99@$5,75 installation in wood, metal or 3 to 9 @ Sl0.95 each partment are convenient @ S6.00-50 to 99 each. Write for quantities over 100. ceramics. ly located on the back. @ SS. 75 each Accurate to (±) 10 Write for quantities seconds per month. over 100.
# 500 Quartz # 575 Electric Insert Movement Pendulum # 100 Complete with Dial-Hands-Cord Quartz Striking Pendulum 5 $ 9 . o In Quantity 8%" x 5%"
This compact unit can be fitted into any type of en 24. OO In Quantity closure, case or panel. The pendulum does not affect This versatile and extremely accurate quartz accuracy of one movement with its beautiful chime minute per year. so that tones would be a welcome addition to 3 112" 4" 5 112" various lengths of 8 to 14 any room. Can be used with or without $5.70 $5.95 $6.20 inches may be used. _Noise pendulum. Comes complete with hands from movement is negli- and pendulum. A clock movement ready to incor gible, only ticking souJJd •Chimes on half hour-Counts on hour porate into •a case of your own •Accurate to± 10 seconds per month of pendulum can be heard. design. A complete unit with dial •Runs for 2 years on 'D' alkaline cell and hands, covered by glass for de 1 or 2@ $13.95-3 to 9@ $12.75-10 to 24 @ •Chimes can be silenced by pushing lever •Dependable-Fully guaranteed for one year pendability and ease of installation. Sl 1.75-25 to 49 @ $10.50-50 to 99 @ 59 .50. Versatile because of a variety of Write for quantities over 100. 1 or 2 @ S27.95-3 to 9 @ $25.95-Carton of 10 524.00 mounting techniques. DELIVERY FROM STOCK - PRICES INCLUDE HANDS - USE COUPON BELOW ------' PLEASE SEND MOVEMENTS AS LISTED PLUS $1.50 FOR DELIVERY. I' ------# 300 TRANSISTOR MOVEMENTS 'I @ ------ ' ------# 475 TINY QUARTZ MOVEMENTS @------ ' ------# 450 QUARTZ MOVEMENTS @------ ------# 600 # 650 @------ ------# 500 QUARTZ PENDULUMS @------ ------# 575 QUARTZ STRIKING PENDULUMS @ ------ ------# 100 ELECTRIC MOVEMENTS @------We also stock numerals-markers Check here for booklet. # 300-450-500 available in Reg . Post (to 3/a" thickness) and Line Post (to%" thick). NAME ADDRESS CITY ------STATE ZIP ' ··· ··············-~- -~!~~-~-~: .. ~~~~~;:~~~~:;~~~~~:~:!;~··· ...... February 1980/Horological Times 3 President's Message/ Leslie L. Smith, CMW, CEWS
PAY YOUR ASSOCIATION OFFICERS A COMPLIMENT
ebruary sees the beginning or the monetary worth of of affiliate chapter ac the voluntary time contributed F tivities for 1980, par- by these people. When you ticularly the scheduling of spring consider the number of watch seminars and conventions to makers' associations across the bring to you technical and country and the effort necessary social activities for your benefit to keep them running smoothly, and enjoyment. A tremendous the dollar value would be stag- amount of work on the part gering. of many fine, dedicated asso Obviously, these people ciation workers goes into these don't expect to be paid;· they activities. Meeting rooms are re are carrying out the trust you served, speakers contacted, enter placed in them. Their commit tainment planned, workshops ments made to you when ac set up, notices printed and cepting office are simply being mailed, reservations taken and carried out. logged, meals worked out with Leslie L. smith We at AWi salute these hotels, and many other tasks too numerous to men outstanding people and are proud to be a part of tion will be attended to by the men and women their work. We would also like to remind you that whom you have selected to run your association. the best compliment you can pay your officers and It would be impossible to count the hours directors is to faithfully attend these activities. UDB
As the Spring Calendar fills up . • •
BB·Stella "GHC" Hunting Case
ORDER YOURS TODAY THROUGH YOUR WATCH MATERIAL WHOLESALER
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4 Horological Times/February 1980
Questions and Answers/ Henry B. Fried
WOODEN GRANDFATHER Henry 8. Fried, CMW, CMC, FBHI
I need some information about I think it is extremely unlikely end, as shown in Palmer's photograph. i clock brought in for repair that the name on the back of I would straighten out the present right Qrecently. It is a 3 0-hour with a A the dial you mention is the maker, angle bend and reform it into a loop. wood dial similar to the one illustrated as clocks of this type and period usually This would shorten the crutch about in Brooke Palmer's Treasury of American did not bear the name of the maker. 5/8 in. which would not affect the Clocks on page 19 , in photos 30, 31, When they did, the name was customarily running of the clock. and 32. The only difference is the lack painted on the front of the dial. On In fact, I would try to duplicate of a second hand or date hand. I am rare occasions the initials of the maker all of your missing parts just as they sending pictures to help identify it. have been found carved on the foot appear in Palmer. The hammer head is The back of the dial is signed Foote board. However, I have never seen or iron, as is the bell which is about 4 in. and numbered 3 1. Many of the parts heard of one appearing on the back of in diameter. bear the same number. the dial, and certainly never in pencil Look at the top edges of the two as the name appears in you photo. plates and I believe you will see two I would like to know if this name The makers certainly did not place iden holes drilled to receive the wire supports on the back of the dial could possibly tifying numbers on the various parts for the bell. The other ends of the wires be the maker. I cannot make out the of the movement. are bent at a right angle and pressed label shown on photo 30. I think it is most likely that the into holes drilled in the ends · of a length The weights, bell and bell stand, name and number you refer to were of 3 /8 in. doweling. The bell is screwed pendulum bob, and suspension spring placed on the clock by either a repair or bolted to the underside of the dowel. and pendulum leader are missing. I man or a past owner. Incidentally, the The pendulum can be either lead or cast iron, 3 in. in diameter, and weighing about 0. 7 pounds. The exact weight is not critical, but don't make it too heavy since the support for these pendulums is none too strong. The suspension spring can be made from an old mainspring, 1 /4 in. x 0.10 in. x 3 1/2 in. (approximate). Here, again, don't make the suspension spring too strong, or the clock may not run. There is no pendulum leader, but the pendulum rod is made from a 1 /8 in. soft iron rod about 38 in. long including the suspen sion spring. This length is in addition to the bob wire earlier described. The exact length will vary with the weight of the rod, the bending point of the suspension spring, etc. Therefore, I would make it a few inches longer than 38 in., and before bending the end into a hook, make a test run by taping the bob and bobwire to the rod with Figure 1. What looks like keyholes are not. Figure 2 . The name and number can be the regulator nut at its mid position. They are just tor show or used in crank wind seen written in the arch and the long wooden The tin canisters are about 2 1 /4 in. clocks. hammer. in diameter and 7 in. high. The tops are cut from 1 /4 in. thick wood with the would like to know dimensions and size label you mentioned in Palmer's book canister sides crimped over to hold them of the suspension spring, pendulum leader, is not a maker's label, but a sales receipt. in place. The tops should not be crimped size and weight of the pendulum bob, and I can't make it all out, but under mag into place until the exact weight has possibly the weights of the canisters. nigication it clearly reads, "Received. .. The striking hammer is extremely long, October 19th 1810... dollars ... in full been determined. This is usually from the mallet head being made of wood. pay for a clock. J. .. C. Smith." I can 3 1 /2 to 5 pounds. The striking side I'm not sure if this is original (it looks find no record of a Smith making clocks usually takes about 1 /2 pound less than it), but it is hard to figure out what of this type and period, and this indi the going side, and is determined by the speed of the strike, assuming that the type of arrangement they had for striking, vidual may have been just a pedlar. striking train is in proper order. The i.e., whether it was a glass bell, wire, The long armed hammer on your going side can usually be estimated by or what. Any information would be clock is not the original. I also believe the loudness of the tick, taking into very much appreciated. that the crutch has been altered. In clocks consideration the size of the drops. Gerald Boorse of this kind and date, the crutch impulses Souderton, PA the pendulum rod through a loop in its (Continued on page 56)
6 Horological Times/February 1980 .llttrel BATTERY GROUP "C" OPERATED Clock Movements NEW JUNGHANS 756 TRANSISTORIZED BALANCE WHEEL ----...... '" ,,,. Q ...... '~ 1-2 $8.50 ; ' CI ~ -..-.., / " : : -=, ~ ,' ,I 11 3-11 7.75 I l, I I 12-24 7.25 I I I 25-99 6.50 I\ ;' I I 100 + 6.25 I I I ~ '•1 Newly redesigned compact lt ~ 1-2 $6.50 size West German made. ~::j"\ 3-11 6.00 ,, ' tj" ' ' THE ACCURACY OF QUARTZ ' 12-24 5.75 THE SIMPLICITY OF BATTERY POWER 25-99 5.25 TA 53001 100 + 4.90 Extremely accurate, plus or minus one minute an nually. Over 4 million impulses per second are pro Housed in a dust-free capsule, this reliable duced by 4.194304 MHz quartz time standard. Uses movement is an exceptional value offering trou 1.5 v. "C" type alkaline battery for up to 4 years ble free service at a low price. Accuracy within service. plus or minus 5 minutes per month.
QUARTZ MOVEMENT QUARTZ PENDULUM
1-2 $7.75 3-11 7.00 12-24 6.50 25-99 6.00 1-2 $12.75 100 + 5.40 3-11 12.00 12-24 11.25 25-99 10.00 PQ 20501 Stabilized crystal quartz assures high accuracy and 100 + 9.50 durability. Ideal for wall or table clock. Quiet con " tinuous motion second hand has knob for accurate A single and compact unit that can be fitted into setting. Accurate plus or minus 10 seconds per J. any type of enclosed case or panel. Pendulum month. does not affect quartz accuracy. Available with *QA 27308-Ultra Thin Model. 2Y." square. 5/8" thick. Has step pendulum length between 83/s" and 161/4''. Accu second. Uses AA Battery. rate plus or minus 10 seconds per month.
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February 1980/Horological Times 7
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1 ESA/ETA 5112 '" 977 ESA/ETA 73/4 " 950 ESA/ETA 73/4 "' 951 ESA/ETA 11112 "' 952 "OPUS QUARTZ" "FLATLINE QUARTZ" "NORMLINE QUARTZ" ''MANUFACTURE H 3.60, for very small H 3.10, for the most H 4.30, center second, QUARTZ" ladies' watches. elegant ladies' watches instantaneous changing H 4.50, center second, of date and day indications, instantaneous changing with corrector and of date and day indications, stop-second. with corrector and stop-second. Product Plus versions can be provided. ® ETA SA Fabriques d'ebauches CH-2540 Grenchen Switzerland
1 ESA/ETA 11112 " 954 ESA/ETA 999.001 Tel. (065) 51 2111 "FLATLINE QUARTZ" ?JMrit.iwm./ Telex 349 371 H 3.70, center second, H 1.98, including case instantaneous changing and crystal. Electronic of date indication, with hand-setting for hours corrector and stop-second and minutes. he regular collet is still the predominant type of collet found today, and the operations of pinning and truing it require T considerable skill. Preparations for colleting should include HAIRSPRING the selection of tools, the selection of the colleting pin, cutting of the hairspring, and forming of the tongue. Figure 1 shows some basic tools: two pairs of tweezers, one pair of cutting tweezers No. l 6A, three COLLETS broaches, a needle made from a broken oiler, and the four and ten power loupes. Assorted pins are shown in Figure 2. These are ob tainable from material dealers in one gross amounts. The best way to select a pin is to fit a piece of the hairspring in the collet and fit a pin By tweezer tightly into the hole. It should fit nearly halfway. See Figure Joseph 2A. Some watchmakers select a slightly stronger pin and file one side flat to make it lie flush against the hairspring coil in the collet hole. Rugole This assures better contact between the hairspring and the pin and between the collet and the pin. It is possible to notch the pin at the points where it is going to be broken off, but there are other methods of cutting the pin which will be explained later.
The cutting of the hairspring consists of two operations; one is to decide at which point to cut and the other is the actual cutting. Since all hairsprings are made with a much smaller center than the diameter of the collet which has to be attached, part of the spring must be removed. The accepted way to determine the cutting point is to place the collet on the hairspring and center it carefully. See Figure 3. It should be cut at the point where the first coil is visible from under the collet. Some watchmakers advise the cutting at a point 180° from this point, claiming that it is much easier to true the spring in round if there is a little more space available in which to manipulate the tweezers. It has been explained previously that the eccentric develop ment of the center of gravity depends on the radius of the inner coil. There is yet another valid reason why the first coil should be as close to the collet as possible. The hairspring should be pinned twice if we are to obtain the best possible performance from it. The first pinning 00 is necessary in order to obtain the proper point at which the spring Figure 1 will vibrate the required number of beats per hour. When the vibrating point has been determined, the hairspring must be re-pinned to position the point of attachment at a location allowing the best isocronous performance of the hairspring. The reasons and the methods for deter mining the position of the pinning point will be explained later. It is invariably necessary to cut off more of the hairspring during the second pinning operation. If the space around the collet is large to begin with, it will be much too large after the second pinning. The cutting of the coil should be done very carefully because it is easy to disturb the center of the spring with one careless move. Large hairsprings can be cut with cutting tweezers, but it is better to learn to do this with an ordinary pair of strong tweezers. The cutting point is marked and the spring is grasped just behind this point with a strong pair of tweezers. A sharp push toward the center and then back is usually sufficient to break the spring, but care should be taken that the first remaining inside coil is not pushed out of shape. If such damage does occur, it is better to cut several short pieces than to dis I tort the spring. If the center coils are damaged, it is usually very dif Figure2 ficult to true the spring in round and in flat. The tongue is formed as in Figure 4. It should be formed 90° from the end of the inner coil. During this operation, it is very easy to twist the tongue or to bend it out of the plane of the spring. Before the spring is fitted to the collet, the tongue must be made straight and level to avoid later difficulties with truing. There are several ways to fit the hairspring tongue into the collet hole. I believe the fastest and the least difficult way is to place the collet on a reamer, press it down a little, and grasping the hairspring just behind the tongue, bring it to the collet. During this operation, the fingers of both hands must press against one another, and the reamer must be held very close to the collet. This is necessary to
10 Horological Times/February 1980 control the natural unsteadiness of the hands. By creating a common support, shakes and jitters are minimized. The pin is always inserted from the side of the hook. It should be fitted so that it stays on the same side of the spring, i.e., on the top side when the spring is on the arbor. Before tightening the pin, the spring is leveled so that the first half of the inner coil appears parallel to the top of the collet. The depth of the tongue must also be adjusted so that the collet appears as close to the center as possible, judging with the naked eye. See Figure 5. There are many different ways of cutting the pin at both ends which seem to me to be equally valid as long as the same final results are achieved. One of the fastest ways is F igu re 2A to grasp the thin end of the pin with a pair of Figure 5 fine, flat pliers and pull it until tight. With the same hold, make a sharp 90° bend away from the collet so that the pin bends at the point where it comes out of the hole. A gentle tum in the opposite direction will break the pin at the very edge of the hole. The same method can be used to break the large end of the pin. On large hairsprings, it is some times convenient to use a fine pair of cutting tweezers-Dumont No. 16A style. The pin on the hairspring in Figure 6 was broken off at the small end and cut off with cutting tweezers at the large end. It requires careful examination under magnification to see the difference between the two methods. The pin can also be cut by notching it with a razor blade at the point of entry and exit after it has been pulled tight. It can then be broken off by a simple upward pull with a pair of tweezers. This method is not as simple as the other two F igure 3 mentioned, but some watchmakers are very suc Figure 6 cessful with it. When the colleting is completed, one usually finds that even a very careful operation produces one of the four errors illustrated in Figure 7. More precisely, the errors will likely be a combination of any two basic shapes which are not the opposites of one another. The four basic errors in round are as illustrated: tongue bent too much, tongue not bent enough, tongue too deep, and tongue too shallow. When we observe the spring from the side, we find that it is not quite as true in flat as it should be. The truing should always begin with correcting the flat because the hairspring is never true in round unless it is also true in flat. The reverse of this rule does not apply. One other rule is essential to remember: All corrections in flat and in round should be made as close to the pinning point as possible. Any distortion of the hairspring beyond the Figure 4 first 30° from the pinning point is not only Figure 7 unnecessary, but detrimental to successful truing in round and in flat. Preliminary truing is performed with the hairspring mounted on the broach. A few quick adjustments will suffice to prepare it for vibrating. UCIB
W.ATCti .L\uJ1u~1rM1~~1r~ by JOSEPH RUGOLE, CMW
February 1980/Horological Ti111cs 11 Our Readers Write
Fred Burckhardt: Crimestopper
As an AWi member, I have always enjoyed JAEGER: AT THE AWi AUTHORS RECEIVE the Horological Times with its many HEAD OF HIS CLASS fine articles. In particular, I found Fred INTERNATIONAL ACCLAIM Burckhardt's articles on Cubic Zirconia In regard to the "President's Message'_' "The Watch Cell as it Relates (September and October, 1979) most in your September, 1979 issue: ~ow nght to the Watchmaker," an article helpful in preparing a presentation for he is! Never before in the watch mdustry which appeared in the June, July, the Insurance Crime Prevention Bureau has such a change taken place. After and August, 1979 issues of AWi's on the role of Cubic Zirconia in insurance 39 years at the bench, I find myself Horological Times, has been chosen fraud. As a result, the ICPB and our at a new beginning. The electric and to run in the New Zealand Horo organization would like to do a mailing quartz watches are not the introduction logical Journal. The author, Gerald to our member companies using Mr. to a fad. This is real. So what's the Jaeger, CMW, CEWS, is currently Burckhardt's article as the focal point. answer? serving on the A WI Board of We are therefore requesting your I recommend the Micro Elec Directors and is a past president permission to photostat the article for tronic course taught by Gerald Jaeger of the American Watchmakers this purpose, with, of course, due credit as an absolute must. I am in the process Institute. Besides his articles in being given to author and publication. of completing this course and before the Horological Times, Jaeger is I started it, I had no knowledge of nationally known as an A WI The Insurance electronic principles even though I Bench Course instructor and Solid Institute of Canada have been a C.A.T. for close to 3 years. State Residence Course instructor I find my instructor's qualifications and advisor. Editor's Note-Permission was granted surpassed only by his ability to under Also chosen was Joseph and these fine articles were distributed stand and help through clear explana Rugole's "No Oil on Pallet Pivots," to all their member companies. tions. With a combination like this, the taken from the Horological Times watchmaker has a friend he can always "Watch Adjustments" series.Joseph look to. I sincerely hope Gerald has a Rugole, CMW , is currently serving long life. The watchmaker will be a better as the Chairman of A WI's Research informed person because he cares. and Education Council. Rugole Keep up the good work! is a watchmaking instructor at the A REQUEST AND A REVIEW Geo~ge Brown College of Applied David Stoliker Arts and Technology in Toronto, I would like to request a technical bul Albany, NY Canada. letin for a PUW 3000 Electronic. Any information you can send me will be a great help. I am an A WI member and I really find the Horological Times a very helpful source of information.
Annette L. Noelke Washington, MO
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February 1980/Horological Times 13 WATCH CASES AND THEIR ACCESSORIES ©1980 Fancy and Pocket Watch Crystals
By Archie Perkins
he fitting of glass crystals requires T a different technique than the fittn1g of plastic crystals, since a crystal press cannot be used on glass crystals. Glass crystals, in many cases, must be ground to fit the bezel and then cemented into place. R T H When fitting fancy-shaped glass watch crystals, it is important to know the different shapes and styles of crystals. Figure 1 shows the most important shapes that have been standardized and are commonly designated by different letters. They are as follows: R-Rec tangular cut corner; T- Tonneau; H-Hex x 0 agon ; X-Rectangular sharp corners; 0- 0val; W-Fancy Barrel; S-Square; D Diamond; N- Octagon;Q- Square cut cor ner; V-Rococo; Y-Convex; C-Cushion; Z-Rectangular concave; F- Fancy. Many odd shapes come under the last category. These letter designations are for plain, flat crystals only. Sometimes the bezel D N is curved and needs a curved crystal. Curved crystals have an "M" placed on the label in front of the other Jetter to indicate that the crystal is curved. M means Military or curved. For example, an MX crystal means that it is curved either in one direction or both and that it is rectangular in shape. When a "C" is placed before these two letters, it in v y dicates that the crystal is a cylinder crystal. This is a specially shaped crystal. A CX crystal would be a cylinder crystal without curve of rectangular shape, and a CMX crystal would be a cylinder that is curved of rectangular shape. Some of the different styles of fancy crystals are shown in Figure 2. View A shows a regular crystal. This c crystal is raised enough to clear the hands z of the watch and can be obtained for a flat bezel or a curved bezel. This crystal is the same thickness at any point at which it is measured. View B of Figure 2 Figure 1 illustrates a double-thick crystal called a Durex. This crystal is shaped like a regular crystal. View C shows a flat-top crystal which is called a Planex. This crystal is hollowed out on the inside similarly to the regular crystal. View D shows a cylinder crystal of the curved WATCHES top style. This crystal is very deep inside for more hand clearance. The shape of by ARCHIE B. PERKINS, CMW the inside matches the contour of the (All rights reserved by the author) outside. There are times when a watch
14 Horological Times/ February 1980 Figure 2 having a diamond-studded dial or a sweep crystal is simplified. To order a new local watch material distributor. Some second hand will require this style of crystal, the information needed would professional crystal fitters use an optical crystal. View E shows the flat-top cylinder be the make of watch and the number lens edging wheel, 12 to 16 inches in crystal. This crystal is sunk out deeply from the back of the case. If the case diameter made of a fine-grained material inside, similar to crystal D. The shape doesn't have the crystal number, then such as aloxite vitrified carborundum. of the inside follows the contour of the other steps must be taken in selecting This grinder has a water dispenser mounted outside. This is a very good crystal for the new crystal. on top of its housing and a tube coming sweep second watches or watches with First, the bezel must be measured down over the wheel so that water will a studded dial. View F illustrates a two with a millimeter Vernier Caliper or a continue to drip on the wheel while it facet cylinder crystal. This crystal is crystal gauge to determine the length is being used. While this is a desirable shaped in this manner for appearance and width of the crystal opening. See crystal grinder, if the watchmaker does and to match the shape of the case. It Figure 3. Then the shape of the case and not grind many crystals, such an elaborate is formed inside to match the contour the style of crystal must also be deter machine is not justified. of the outside. View G shows the three mined. This information, together with The following procedure can be facet cylinder crystal and View H shows the make of watch, should be all that is used to fit a crystal by grinding when the four-facet crystal. These are shaped needed to buy or select a new crystal. the proper crystal cannot be obtained. this way mainly for style, and they are If the proper crystal cannot be obtained, First, measure the length and width shaped similarly inside and out. a slightly larger crystal must be selected of the bezel where the crystal fits , as When fitting a new crystal to and then ground to fit the bezel. in Figure 3. Then determine the shape a watch case, certain factors should be To grind watch crystals, a good and style of crystal needed. Select a crys considered. First, if a watch is a standard crystal grinding stone is very important. tal as close to the bezel measurements make, the crystal number will most It should be a fine, smooth stone of the as possible, but slightly larger. Prepare likely be stamped in the back of the proper type for grinding glass. It should the crystal grinder with water, being sure case. Usually this number is separate have a means for keeping it wet with the stone is well soaked with water from the case number. This system of water during the grinding operation. before starting the grinding procedure. stamping the crystal number in the back The speed of the stone is also very Grasp the crystal in the fingers with the of the watch case was being used by the important. A 4-inch stone should tum thumb inside the hollow of the crystal Gruen Watch Company fifty-three years at about 1750 R.P.M. A larger stone and present the crystal to the edge of ago as is shown in their 1926 material should turn at a slower speed, since it the stone as in Figure 4 . Note: The catalog. is the surface speed of the stone which grinding wheel should be turning upward If the crystal number is stamped is important. against the crystal and the crystal pre in the back of the case, then the job Crystal griders can be obtained sented to the stone with an up and down of ordering or selecting the proper from crystal companies through your motion, causing it to be ground evenly
Figure 3 Figure 4 Figure5
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along its edge from one corner to the until the crystal will fit into the bezel. the bezel to the right and keep the label other. The crystal should be held so If the crystal is ground enough for it on the crystal positioned in the same way a slight bevel will be created on the to go into the bezel and then polished, each time the crystal is tried in the bezel edge of the crystal from its edge towards it may make it too small. for fit. This will avoid a mix-up as to which its top. The rough edge and sharp corners For the polishing operation, a side was ground last. It is also a good are then removed before the crystal is felt wheel is mounted onto the spindle idea to first grind two opposite sides tried in the bezel for fit. See Figure 5 of an electric motor. There should be so the crystal will slide into the bezel, for removing the rough edge from a a metal hood part-way around the felt and then grind the two remaining sides crystal that has a flat edge and Figure 6 wheel like the hood on the crystal grinder. until the crystal fits. When the crystal for removing the edge from a curved The felt wheel is kept loaded with a paste goes into the bezel, check to see if it edge crystal. To remove the sharp cor made from either tin oxide and water fits down flat against the bottom of the ners from a crystal, the corner of the or cerium oxide and water. The crystal bezel groove. This can be checked by crystal is applied to the stone as in Figure is applied to the edge of the felt wheel pressing on the crystal at different 7, and one motion will cause the sharp in the same manner as it was applied to corners. If the crystal has a rocking corner to be removed. the grinder. Care must be used not to motion, then the high comers will need To do a top-quality job in polish too much, as this could make the to be ground off so the crystal will not grinding and fitting watch crystals, the crystal too small for the bezel. rock. Sometimes a crystal will rock edges of the crystals should be polished Now the crystal is tried in the because there isn't enough curve on the after the grinding operation. This helps bezel for fit. See Figure 8. When a crys crystal at its edge. This can be corrected prevent the crystal from breaking or tal is too large all around, then an equal by grinding more curve in the crystal chipping at its edges. Usually the crystal amount should be taken off of each side. where needed by moving the crystal is first ground so that it will almost fit It is a good idea when grinding a crys into the bezel. The edges are then polished tal to always keep the stem opening of (Continued on page 58) Figure 6 Figure 7 Figura 8
16 Horological Times/February 1980 You could spend around $3000 for a digital promotional display. display multi-function rate measuring in Pay $2000 or $3000 for a timer? Ridiculous. strument. Now that Citizen's CQT-101 is here. But it isn't necessary. Place your order with your material house The Citizen CQT-101 can measure not only or directly to Citizen Watch Company. For quartz watches (analog and digital) but also more information, write: Citizen Watch Co. of tuning fork and balance wheel watches with America, Inc., Service Headquarters, 12140 all the accur·:xcy you need. W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90064. Its measuring range is from 0.01 second a Tel.: (213) 826-6541. day to ±399 seconds per day. To monitor various types of watches and clocks, you simply change the microphone. The CQT-101 is the only quartz timing in We sell with you, not through you. strument you'll ever need. And even when it's not helping you build *Suggested retail. Price does not include shipping and mic rophone for mechanical watches. Sales tax additional in your service business, its attractive, profes California. sional look makes it in an effective in-store 'i Affiliate Chapter Column/ Robert F. Bishop
The Annual AW! Affiliate Chapters Meeting: AN ESSENTIAL FOR LOCAL GUILDS
nce each year, some of your submitted to the Affiliate Chapter local dues money is used for committee before the Annual Meeting O delegates' expenses to the AWI so that we will have time to research Affiliate Chapters Meeting. Is it worth them, determine if they would be it? Or is this just a junket, accomp in conflict with AWi By-laws, and lishing little? You have a right to know. perhaps suggest more effective wording. Yes, it is worth it. There are If we want AWI to better serve our three days of concentrated activity needs, we must send delegates to the with practically no time off. The meeting with intelligent, well thought meetings are very businesslike and out recommendations. fair. Although only the Directors For many years, these an may vote, anyone attending may nual meetings have been held at have the floor and express opinions. the Cincinnati airport near AWI Each individual attending receives a headquarters. This year, as a result packet of material consisting of of a recommendation by the Affiliate committee reports, minutes of pre .,----- Chapters and an invitation by the vious meetings, Affiliate Chapter re Bay Area Watchmakers Guild, the ports, and other valuable information. ,,. AWi Board of Directors voted to Robert Bishop Each of the AWI committee chair- hold the next meeting on the West men presents an oral report of their progress during the past Coast. Therefore, the 1980 Affiliate Chapter and AWI Directors year. Space does not permit listing the names of the 30 active Meeting will be held on June 27, 28, and 29 at the Dunfey committees, but their work encompasses all areas vital to Hotel at San Mateo, CA. This promises to be an exciting and our profession. Reading and listening to these reports will fruitful meeting. San Francisco and the Bay Area provide give your delegate a better insight into the status of today's a beautiful setting, and we hope that much can be accom watchmaker. AWI has a budget of nearly $400,000.00 and plished in the three days we will be in session. makes many of its resources available to the Affiliate Chapters. Your delegate can learn first hand how AWI can help your Last year, 26 out of a possible 39 chapters sent chapter grow. delegates. This year we hope to have a larger group. I realize Another important aspect is the personal contact that many of the chapters in the East will face an increase with watchmakers from all over the USA and Canada. Dele in the cost of sending delegates this year. Please do not let gates can share ideas and experiences in a way that no article the added cost cause you to have second thoughts about in a magazine could hope to do. attending. After all, the West Coast chapters have found the Not only do the delegates learn, but you, through means to send delegates for years. You, the individual member, them, can influence the future policies of AWI. The Affiliate support any fund-raising activity for your delegates. They will Chapters are very important to AWi, as they represent the be working hard for you at the meetings. Money can be grass roots of the organization. We have the closest contact raised in many ways-flea markets, raffles, dinners, etc. with the individual AWi member. We can sense the problems quickly. The Affiliate Chapter Meeting is the best vehicle More details will be made available in the coming for voicing members' concerns to AWi. At the meeting, months, but let us resolve now that this will be the biggest, delegates propose, discuss, and vote on recommendations best, and most productive meeting yet! to AWi. Those recommendations approved by the delegates are submitted by the Affiliate Chapter Director to the Annual We are important to AWI in other ways. We are best Board of Directors Meeting the following Sunday. Those able to talk to our fellow watchmakers who have not yet recommendations approved become the official policy of seen the wisdom of becoming a member. January and February AWi and will be implemented with all the resources that only are the annual AWi Membership Drive months, and we can a large national organization can offer. and should be AWi's ambassadors and help build our member However, we cannot present intelligent and meaning ship rolls. Make a point of contacting a non-member and show ful recommendations without advance planning. We must him how his thirty-dollar dues is a wise investment. Help begin now. I would like to see all proposed recommendations AWI grow! liCill
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Name I I I Address I I I I City State __ Zip __ I L------J February 1980/Horological Times 19 .. .from all around the
WASHINGTON The 41 st Annual Convention was another In October the Washington State Watch fine success, thanks to Chairman Paul makers Association held a one-day Wadsworth, Linda Spicknall, Stearns seminar with guest speaker Mr. Marvin Cummings, and other members of the Whitney. Board. It was highlighted by a bench Mr. Whitney presented a slide course on meters and meter reading, program on the history of the chronome conducted by Gerald Jaeger, an instruc ter which was followed later in the day tor for AWi. by another slide presentation on the The convention, held in Syra care and maintenance of the chronome cuse on September 15th and 16th, also ter. included a class on the "Digital Explo NEW JERSEY sion" by Jack Schecter, Manager of The new officers of the Watchmakers Technical Service for Seiko; and a class Association of New Jersey are Joe Barbieri, on .the Bestfit Microfiche System by President; Henry Kalmus, Vice-President; Sam Schwartz. Don De Wolfe of Portescap, Joe Cerullo, Secretary; Alex Kast, Trea traced the history of time recording surer; Tony Billotto, Director; Bill machines in a talk entitled "The Watch Albrecht, Director. maker Yesterday, Today, and Tomorrow,'' The January meeting featured while Henry Frystak, Accutron and guest speaker Mr. Edward Pedzy from the quartz instructor for Bulova, gave a Zenith Chemical Company. Mr. Pedzy workshop on "New Movements and showed members everything new that Modules." Zenith has brought out within the past Watchmakers' wives were giver. :, 18 months. As in the past, this meeting mini-workshop on refinishing clock cases proved to be very educational. and small antiques. Another highlight The dinner-dance was a success. of the convention was the banquet There were 180 people in attendance, Mr. Marvin Whitney entertainment; a Mid-Eastern belly dancer, and plans are already being made for the which had been a request of several 1980 dinner. members for many years! Many members Mr. Henry Brockway of Portescap remained in the banquet hall as Jean and SA was also a guest speaker. Mr. Brockway Bob Swann provided music and demon showed and explained new products of strated various other dances. Portescap. After lunch there was a short SPECIAL NOTICE Nelson Mills of Newburg, who film presented by Rolex, followed by TO CONNECTICUT has been a driving force in the State round-table discussions concerning pricing, WATCHMAKERS Association for many years, was named material houses, and (headed by Mr. "New York State Watchmaker of the Brockway) a look at Portescap products. At the recent Citizen bench Year." Honors also went to four 25-year course held in Meriden, Mr. Gene Kelton, members: Robert Wack, Herman Klos, who conducted the course, suggested Edward Schanley, and Lloyd Lembcke. In Memory ... that it would be beneficial to form a Rcmanta Woodford won the prize for Connecticut Guild or Association of lhe most used watch batteries, and Kenneth E. Drake Watchmakers. Kenneth E. Drake of Auroro, The AWi has promised to Evelyn Gutchess and Eleanor Elwell support a Connecticut Watchmakers won prizes for their refinishing in the Colorado, died suddenly on Guild or Association with bench courses ladies' class. Friday, November 23rd, 1979. and seminars in both conventional and" He was 52. sol id-state technology. These would be At the Annual Meeting, Robert He had been a pilot held frequently under the auspices of Swann of Rochester was elected President; for United Air Lines since the projected guild. Robert Johnsville of Webster, Vice 1951. He studied watch and At present there is no cost President; Jeanne Mills was reelected clock repairing and was an involved. If replies indicate sufficient Treasurer; and Marge and Grayson outstandbg ;nechanic, special membership interest, a meeting will be Hinman, who have been Acting Recording scheduled early in 1980 to finalize izing in repair of complicated formation plans. Your suggestions as to and Executive Secretaries since January, watches and clocks. time and place and any comments you were elected to those positions. The He was a member would like to share will be most help Board of Directors was completed with of the Colorado Horological ful and deeply appreciated. Let us all join the election of Linda Criss Spicknall Society and on the Board of and contribute to our common good. of Elmira and Julius Maier, Jr. of Buffalo Directors. He was a member Interested watchmakers should reply to as Directors, and Cameron Spicknall of A WI and NA WCC Chapters the interim chairman. as Historian. 21 and 101. William G. Kavanagh He is survived by his 18 A-1 Lake Shore Drive Next year's convention is tenta wife Zoe, and daughters Kath Farmington, CT 06032 tively being planned for the Ramada leen and Linda. Inn, Binghamton, on September 27th and 28th, 1980. • 20 Horological Times/February 1980 ASSOCIATION ...
KANSAS CITY At a general meeting in September, and the State of ~issouri for 1979, in Kansas City, Missouri, non-profit educational status. They tourty-four watchmakers met to have also filed with the American form a watchmakers' guild. At Watchmakers Institute, requesting that meeting, nine men were Affiliate Chapter status, and plan Members at Washington State seminar elected to serve on the Board to affiliate with the Missouri of Directors, who later met Jewelers and Watchmakers As to approve a constitution and sociation. The aim of the KCWG by-laws. The directors will then is to provide assistance to those choose four officers to serve interested in education and the through the end of 1980. There betterment of the horological were twenty-three AWi members trade. This will be achieved present at the initial meeting. through workshops, films, speak ers, and general discussion. Al On November 28, 1979, ready AWi has scheduled a a general meeting was held and workshop to be presented in the constitution and by-laws were June, which we hope will be accepted unanimously by the en followed by many more. tire group, creating the "Kansas All inquiries and cor City Watchmakers Guild." respondance should be forwarded The group is now in the to the official address of the process of obtaining approval guild: P.O. Box 345, Kansas Mr. Henry Brockway of Portescap SA of the Internal Revenue Service City, MO 64141.
CALIFORNIA Over one hundred members of the the module is done only as a last resort," Ohio with Jim Broughton presenting Horological Association of California says Mr. Hayman. He then pointed out the new Citizen's digital alarm. And attended the November 20th, 1979 how to analyze the problem of an LED finally, Bill Biederman will present the meeting in Los Angeles. The evening's or LCD watch and then how to make new Swiss Analog-Digital alarm. The program featured The Great American the corrections. tentative location is Findlay, Ohio. Time Company, a firm located in Orange, HAC thanks Mr. Hayman, Mr. California that specializes in the repair Waldman, and The Great American of all types of quartz digital watches. Time Company for giving their valuable TEXAS Barry Hayman and Richard Waldman, time to help the members better serve The Texas Watchmakers of Houston executives of The Great American Time the timekeeping needs oftoday'scustomer. had a Christmas dinner and party on Company, shared their expertise in an December 18th, 1979. A delicious entertaining and informative manner. dinner was followed by a gift exchange. One energy source, one quartz The Installation of Officers crystal oscillator, one integrated circuit, OHIO Banquet was held on January 16th one display, one substrate, one case ... The Watchmakers Association of Ohio at the Sizzler Steak House in Pasadena. What do these electronic components held their first seminar of the current Watchmaker and writer, Mr. Fred Burck equal? To quote Barry Hayman, "Ab year at the Airport Hilton Inn, Cleveland, hardt, was the guest speaker. solutely nothing, unless you know what Ohio, on October 14, 1979. The instructor to do with them!" Mr. Hayman and was Gerry Jaeger, CMW, CEWS, with Mr. Waldman shared their formula for his course on the use of the volt-ohmeter. making these components equal "some This is the basic course for anyone PENNSYLVANIA thing." interested in the repair of electronic The Allegheny Watchmakers Guild held Fallowing an overall review of the watches. Twenty-six persons attended. its regular monthly meeting on Tuesday, history and interesting developments of The next seminar was planned January 8, 1980 in Pittsburgh. The pro digital watches, the speakers proceeded for Springfield, Ohio on January 20, 1980. gram was presented by Bob Bishop whose with an in-depth discussion on the on the repair on the Seiko digital Alarm topic was "Quartz Watches." This was servicing techniques to be aware of when Chronograph. This is Seiko's most popular a continuation of the quartz presentation repairing this type of timepiece. In the model and is one that will soon be which Mr. Bishop presented in November. past it was assumed that the only way to coming across many benches for re- The Allegheny Guild is holding correct a malfunctioning digital time pair. a seminar on LCD and Analog Watches. piece was to throw away the old module Further seminars are being plan and install a new one. "Today replacing ned for March 23rd at New Philadelphia, (Continued on page 58)
February 1980/Horological Times 21 Open ofetter lo the Watchmaker /,.om JJ-enrg /J. J-rieJ
Dear Mr. Watchmaker: I think it is important for me to offer a message that I feel is of major interest to all of my fellow associates in the watch and clock repair industry. The last watch and clock material catalog was printed in 1965. This was a thick supple ment to an even thicker one printed only four years earlier. Watchmakers have been wondering when a new or a supplemental catalog with inclusions of all products from all countries up to the present will be forthcoming. The answer I receive from every normal source is an emphatic "NEVER." As you probably are aware, our industry in these last years has "exploded" with an enormous number of new watch calibres, technologies as well as a new international numbering system and an accompanying complete new language of timekeeping instruments. However, the severly pressing need to maintain an ongoing system of information to aid in servicing timepieces toas been foremost in the minds and reflected in the questions advanced by watchmakers. It has become obvious that it is both financially and for practical purposes impossible to prepare catalogs in the manner of B. Jadow and Sons' BESTFIT* Encyclopedias numbers 111 and 111 A. To provide one containing only the models and information that have been produced since the publication of the last BESTFIT 111A would require a volume greater than both the 111and111A catalogs combined. Therefore, I am informed, it is impossible for any such type of catalog to ever be issued again. Yet, for the watchmaker to profitably service the myriad of timepieces appearing on his bench, some means of information, parts and model identification, repair techniques must become available. Exhausting and comprehensive studies of how this can best be achieved have been conducted by the firm of B. Jadow & Sons who for over twenty-five years have been the industry leader in our area. The industry-wide use of their systems for all these years "In my studied opin alone is testimony to their efforts. The results of these studies is the BESTFIT Microfiche Watch Material Information ion, this new type of System. Briefly, this new system provides the watchmaker and jeweler with vital informa tion for the servicing of timepieces. The material is presented in the same manner as is system offered is presently used in watch material supply houses. It is also the system used in the main unique in its ability to offices of B. Jadow & Sons Inc. This system will provide information on Microfiche, a system of micro-miniature film on meet the above condi informational index cards. The system also includes a means of enlarging this film to an easy viewing size. Each microphoto lists parts of the complete movement. A position tions and should be number for each part is also shown on the card. It will no longer be necessary to describe the part; merely the system position number---exactly as your wholesaler's come a part of every system and stock. Thus he can fill your order in the shortest possible time. serious watchmaker's I have been informed that BESTFIT will guarantee that information will be supplied regularly so that your system will be "alive" at all times. plans to keep abreast Our industry has not been alone in such problems. The automotive and parts industry, universities, libraries and others are among those who similarly overwhelmed, have professionally and adopted microfiche. Thus a most important feature of microfiche is that it becomes a economically, of the versatile means of displaying and storing information of all kinds in a small area. With this, instructions and information of many kinds can be viewed wthin a minimum of 'state of the art.' " space. Various manufacturers and suppliers' data, can be utilized on microfiche, opening a complete new sector of information and service. The system now offered provides almost eight thousand pictures of informational cards of watch and clock calibres. This includes a high fidelity microfiche reader which requires only about twelve square inches of surface, situated at the watchmakers' convenience for easy reference. I believe that it is important to become fully aware of this present state in our industry. As watchmakers, if we are to continue servicing time pieces, we must be assured of receiving a constant flow of past, present and future information as it becomes needed. In my studied opinion, this new type of system offered is unique in its ability to meet the above conditions and should become a part of every serious watchmaker's plans to keep abreast professionally and economically, of the "state of the art." .
H•n'Y B. F<;od '::t 'BESTFIT is a registered trade mark of *I ·~ B. Jadow & Sons Inc. of New York.
22 Horological Times/February 1980 THE BESTFIT® "MICROFICHE WATCH MATERIAL INFORMATION SYSTEM" The new completely up to date Bestfit Encyclopedia of Watch and Clock Material is being prepared in this new modern form. Microfiche is a type of micro film which is in common use and which can be enlarged for easy viewing through a reader similar to the one illustrated here. Bestfit breaks precedent by making this offer directly to the Watchmaker in order to keep costs down.
THE BESTFIT® MICROFICHE SYSTEM HAS THESE MANY ADVANTAGES: • The Bestfit microfiche system completely details interchangeable information on ever 8000 watch and clock calibres. No longer will you be purchasing parts that you have on hand. Each photo lists parts for the complete movement. A position number for each part is shown on the card. No longer will it be necessary to de scribe the part. Merely order by system position number. Since your wholesaler has the same system and stocks by these num bers. he will be able to fill your orders in the least possible time. • It provides a systematic method of delivering new information in a continuing way, so that you will be completely informed and up to date at all times. The first year's updating will be free. There after new supplementary information will be supplied upon re turn of the outdated set for an annual fee. • Information will be supplied regularly so that your system will be "alive." • Information supplied by other manufacturers using similar micro fiche can be viewed on your reader. • You will be supplied with a high fidelity microfiche reader. The reader will require approximately 12 square inches of space and can easily fit in the corner of your work bench.
This is a limited time offer. If your order is not received by March 31, 1980 you may not be able to participate in this important oppor tunity. Delivery can be anticipated August/September 1980.
ORDER FORM Bes!fit® Watch and Clock Materials Division of: B. JAOOW AND SONS INC. 53 West 23rd Street New York, N.Y. 10010 Gentlemen: Please enter my order for __ unit of the BESTFIT" "MICROFICHE" MA TERIAL INFORMATION SYSTEM, at the cost of $350.00 plus shipping charges and sales tax where applicable. Enclosed is my check for $50.00 as a deposit. I will pay the full balance when OLD system is ready to be delivered, and when I receive your invoice so advising. STYLE 1 I I I I *NOTE: This picture is I for illustration purposes I only. The r e may be : CHECK# CITY&STATE ZIP _ __ , changes in the model I I that wi ll be supplied at t I the time of delivery. • ------~------J
February 1980/Horological Times 23 he ship's chronometer has always commanded more respect and been held in higher esteem in England and on the Continent than T in America. This is probably due to the fact that the first marine timekeeper (later called a chronometer) had its beginnings in England. Also, the history of the rivalry that developed as several different makers turned their attention to the construction of a timepiece accurate enough Some to determine logitude is well known there. This is understandable as, his torically, England took an early lead in the development of water com merce and those who depended upon and traveled the high seas were well Rare aware of the importance of safe navigation and had a great appreciation for the chronometer and other navigational instruments. As mentioned, the first instruments designed to determine lon gitude were referred to as marine timekeepers, but today we know them And as chronometers. Jeremy Thacker, of Beverly in Yorkshire, is credited Unusual with being the first to use the word "chronometer" in describing a marine Chronometers
By Marvin E. Whitney
Figure 1 . John Arnold and Son, No. 59.
24 Horological Times/February 1980 of the chronometer or the effort of Harrison and his contempories, but rather to honor the artistic accomplish ments and the ingenuity of their suc cessors. The chronometers shown during Asprey's '72 and '79 exhibits certainly testify to a period which was distinguished by keen competition, constant experimen tation, and total dedication to perfection. In this article and the following article in the series, I am going to discuss timekeeper. In 1714, Thacker published Brandon, U.S.N., but my suggestion fell some of the unusual chronometers an article in which he wrote, "In a word, on deaf ears-such a shame. displayed at these two exhibits and also I am satisfied that my Reader begins to Through the years, several com several other chronometers that I have think that the Phonometers, Pyrometers, panies in England dealing in fine jewelry, seen and/or examined. However, before Selenometers, Heliometers, and all the clocks, chronometers, watches, and an describing these chronometers and their Meters are not worthy to be compared tique time and scientific pieces, have unique features, it is only appropriate with my Chronometer." The New English sponsired exhibits of ship's chronometers to say something about Asprey and Dictionary states that William Derham, and other scientific instruments. One such Company which is to be commended one of England's earlier writers on prac company, Asprey and Company, Ltd., for its continuous efforts to stimulate tical horology, used the term "a pendulum 164-169 New Bond Street, London, interest in these truly beautiful and chronometer" in 173 5, while John England, has long been known as a intriguing instruments through sponsor Arnold wrote a treatise entitled "A promoter of chonometer exhibits. By ship of such exhibits. Description of a Pocket Chronometer" promoting such exhibits, Asprey and The foundations of the present in 1780. Lt. Commander Rupert T. Gould, Company has certainly made us ever firm of Asprey were laid when William who wrote what is unquestionably the mindful of the great debt of gratitude we Asprey established himself at Mitcham, finest treatise on the marine chronometer, owe the Yorkshire carpenter-turned England, in 1781. The descendant of a commented on claims that this latter horologist, John Harrison, who met the distinguished Huguenot family which had gentleman was the first to use the word challenge and constructed the world's fled from France a century earlier, "chronometer" by saying that, "Thacker first truly accurate timepiece. Asprey had inherited very fine metal used it in precisely the same sense but Asprey and Company's idea of working skills from a long line of skilled sixty-six years earlier." featuring such exhibits is not so much craftsmen, silversmiths, weavers, leather to trace the evolutionary development workers, calico printers, watchmakers and Chronometers in England have been thought of for years as highly col Figure 2. John Arnold and Son, No. 11/111 lectible items, and as with any collec tible item, the older and more unusual the specimen, the higher the market value. Many of the early chronometers are unusual, and in design and construc tion, are as various as the makers them selves. Each maker expressed personal ideas and innovations in an attempt to overcome the myriad problems posed by the challenge of the ultimate time piece. As these makers began to deal with rust, magnetism, isochronism, tem perature, centrifugal force, etc., the various designs and auxiliaries that were incorporated were most imaginative, intricate, and intriguing.
I am sure that many of our readers either have or know of individuals who have some very unusual and/or old chronometers. When I was at the U.S. Naval Observatory in the early forties, many old and unusual chronom eters came in for repairs. Even though I was just an apprentice chronometer maker, I felt that pictures ought to be taken of these pieces to be placed in the archives. Knowing that we were at war and that such items no doubt would have been placed in a restrictive category, they still could have been taken and I know of no safer place to keep them than the Observatory. I suggested this idea to our Commanding Officer of the Material Department, Commander T.O.
February 1980/Horological Times 25 Make sure your next polisher Idust collector has dependable, convenient operation built in
MAKE SURE THE NAME READS "PRO-CRAFT" DELUXE MODELS COMPACT DUAL EXHAUST PORTABLE, LIGHTWEIGHT WITH DUAL EXHAUST AND ECONOMICAL UNIT SINGLE EXHAUST UNIT TWO FAN BLOWERS This unit has a single axial fan blower This unit fits right behind the polish Here is a big, powerful unit which com in a smaller cabinet-with the features ing wheel of your present motor. Light fortably takes buffs up to 6" diameter. of the deluxe model-but at a lower enough so it can be moved from one Has big intake holes positioned behind cost. Dimensions: 23%" x 11%" x 12". wheel to another. Single axial fan arbor shafts so that even the longest ring buffs can be used. U.L. listed. Top access door for easy filter replace blower. Dimensions: 10" x 10" x 17". Dimensions: 32 " x 10" x 21 ". Top ac ment, and single switch control of Single switch operation convenience. cess door for safe, convenient filter shielded lights, blower, and polishing Also available with 1/3 hp polishing removal or replacement. Convenient motor. Standard motor: 1/3 hp, 3450 motor, mounted on its own base, and single switch operation. Choice of six motors, split phase 1/3 or 1/2 hp or rpm. Sealed 1/2 hp motor also avail taper spindle. sealed 1/6, 1/4, 1/3, or 1/2 hp. Also able. Unit also offered as dust col available as dust collector only. lector without motor. There are other PRO-CRAFT polisher/dust collector models too. One is right for yom l:J:lilCRAFf/ needs ... right size ... right features ... right price. Write today for complete informa· P.O. BOX 243 H tion about PRO-CRAFT products and the name of a supplier near you. CARLSTADT, N.J. 07072
master smiths-his ancestors' means of and knowledge of quality. Asprey and which is also mounted near the fusee livelihood since their arrival in England. Company maintains a fine collection of arbor and a three arm or "YZ" compen antique clocks, chronometers, and 5y 1808, William Asprey and his sating balance. The balance is made of watches, and takes pride in exhibiting son, Charles, had a flourishing business platinum and an alloy of silver and zinc. and purchasing fine longcase, bracket, which included the making of the early It is under-sprung and the hairspring is and carriage clocks, as well as watches fitted dressing cases, later to become the made of gold with terminal curves. This and marine chronometers. necessity of fashionable society . unorthodox form of balance-Arnold's The very standard of Asprey's By the 1830's, the reputation sixth type- was fabricated in 1792 products has been continually recog of the firm was such that Charles Asprey and has been found in only one other nized by the honor of "Royal Appoint· was established at 49 New Bond Street of his ship's chronometers (No. 14/104), ment" to every reigning sovereign since as a dressing case maker and fine stationer. two pocket chronometers, and a deck Queen Victoria granted a warrant in In 1848 he moved to larger premises watch. Arnold used non-ferrous materials 1861. at 166 New Bond Street where the firm in many of his balances in an attempt Like the reputation, the family has been ever since. to reduce the problems caused by mag tradition has remained unbroken through netism. Since the balance is under-sprung Within ten years, Charles Asprey succeeding generations. The business has or of the "floating" type, number l l/111 became the leading dressing and writing passed unfailingly from father to son, is supported by the hairspring; hence, case maker in London. Asprey won honors and today, members of the Asprey the width of the coils are thicker as it at the Great Exhibition of 1851 , and family maintain that personal relation is in tension vertically. Gold medals at the Paris Exhibition ship esta bilshed by the founders of the Figure 3: Breguet, No. 3151 , of 1855 and the International Exhibition business with their distinguished clientele. Circa 1825. This is a beautifully finished. of 1862. Examples of these cases can two-day chronometer having two going still be seen in Asprey's showrooms. The following chonometers are barrels with stop works. a pivoted detent Throughout the 19th century, either rare and unusual and/or have es capement, and a two-arm compensating Asprey continued their fine gold, silver, some distinct historical significance. balance with a helical steel hairspring. and leather work and ex panded to Figure I : John Arnold and Son, The dial has two subsidiary dials. the 165-169 New Bond Street as well as No. 69. The movement of this rare upper denoting the hours and minutes 22 Albemarle Street. chronometer has Arnold's spring detent and the lower one, the seconds. The Unusual for the present day escapement mounted near the fusee movement is fitted in a brass bowl, swung is the fact that Asprey still designs and arbor, with an oversprung "Z" balance, in oval gimbal (a distinctive ch aracteristic makes articles of the highest quality a helical hairspring, and a pointer stud. of Breguet) in a plain mahogany carrying themselves in their own workshops It was made in 1793 and is fitted into case. above the Bond Street showrooms, as an octagonal mahogany box. Figure 4: Brockbank Atkins and has been the practice sin ce the earliest Figure 2: John Arnold and Son, Moore, No. 2070, Circa 1850. This is days of the firm. Indeed, it is regarded No. 11/111 . This two-day chronometer as essential to maintaining their originality movement is fitted with a spring detent (Continued on page 28)
26 Horological Times/February 1980 The next time to watch for in Basel April 19-28, 1980 European Watch, Clock and Jewellery Fair open daily from 9 a. m. to 6 p. m.
AJewel among Fairs Infonnation: European Watch, Clock and Jewellery Fair, P.O. Box, CH-4021 Basel/Switzerland
February 1980/Horological Times 27 AWi HOROLOGICAL TOUR TO ENGLAND and IRELAND May 2 - 20, 1980 Under the guidance of MR. HENRY FRIED
•Visit the British Museum and the Clock Makers Guild Hall. A few seats •Opportunity to view the fascinating monument of BIG BEN. are still •Opportunity to meet your British horological "cousins". remaining •Visit Britian's leading horological factories. •Meet well known dealers and watch and clock makers. •Visit peaceful and beautiful Ireland and attend a Medieval banquet.
Tour rate: $1,930.00 per person sharing a room and included round trip air transportation from New York, breakfasts daily and 23 main meals. Call or write to: KUONI TRAVEL, INC. 11EAST44STREET, NEW YORK, N. Y. 10017 Telephone: (212) 687-7190.
THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER (Continued from page 26) an 8-day, three-quarter plate chronometer with an Earnshaw-type spring detent, compensating balance with round weights, and a blued helical hairspring. Figures Sa and Sb: Paul Ditisheim No. 112, Circa 1912. This beautiful and uniquely designed sidereal rated chronom eter is unusual in many ways. The move ment has a going barrel, an Earnshaw type of spring detent with a Guillaume compensating balance, and in an attempt to compensate for changes in barometric pressure, the balance is enclosed in a small round glass top container. The balance and escapement are detachable and can be replaced with a lever escape ment. It is also fitted with a break circuit mechanism. The dial arrangement is unusual in that it has a center sweep second hand. The chapter ring is located at the 6 o'clock position and the up-and down winding indicator at 12 o'clock. The hands are set by pressing and turning a knurled knob between the bowl and gimbal at the 6 o'clock position. It is wound by a permanently attached key (knob) attached to the underside of the bowl.
Figure 5a. (right) Paul Ditisheim, No. 112, Circa 1912 Figure 5b. (far right) Movement of Paul Ditisheim No.112,Circa1912 '
28 Horological Times/February 1980 .AfUlo, Crystal Tool T13 Regular Price $67 .50
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ferent living conditions. This provided Figure 6. (left) Dent, No. 114, Winner of the the evidence for Darwin's book pub Premium Trial, Greenwich, 1829 lished in 18 5 9, The Origin of the Species, in which he established his theory that Figure 7. (bottom left) Thomas Earnshaw, No. species were not unchangeable, but 533/ 2992, Circa 1800 were subject to evolution. Figure 7: Thomas Earnshaw, Figure 6: Dent, No. 114, Winner No. 533/2992, Circa 1800. This instru of the Premium Trial, Greenwich, 1829. ment is a small two-day chronometer This is a small, one-day chronometer with very beautiful blued steel hands fitted with an Earnshaw-type of detent designed in the form of needles. The escapement, compensating balance with movement has his spring detent escape a blued steel helical hairspring, and ment, compensating balance with seg fitted into gimbal in a mahogany case. mental weights, and a blued steel hair- Dent submitted this instrument to the spring. Royal Observatory at Greenwich and As one studies this movement after a trial of twelve months, showed becomes familiar with the design features'. a mean variation of only 0.54 seconds and sees similar movements made by which resulted in its being awarded the other makers, one can readily visualize premium of 300 pounds. At that time, the tremendous impact and the contin many thought that such a performance uous influence Earhshaw had for years would never be equalled. on the development of the "modern" Historically, this chronometer is chronometer. The actual shape and fea of some interest for it was used on tures of the balance used in the majority Her Majesty's Ship, BEAGLE, the famous of chronometers made since 1800 bear ship which in 1831 took Charles Darwin a very close resemblance to the one the renowned English naturalist and seen here. scientist, on his historic five-year voyage Figure 8: French, Royal Ex to the east and west coasts of South change, London, No. 5722, Circa 1840. America and the Galapagos Islands. This is a two-day chronometer, the During this South American expedition, movement of which has an Earnshaw Darwin made many new discoveries type of spring detent, compensating concerning fossil remains and found balance with segmental weights, and a that animals had developed differently on the various islands because of dif- (Continued on page 56)
February 1980/Horological Times 29 AWi News/ Milton C. Stevens
Forged Checks You Can Protect Yourself
n this month's column I want to edges because forgers don't invest in the ink on legitimate checks, printed in the I share some information with you expensive perforating equipment. conventional way, will not smear. that may be helpful in your every-day business activities-specifically when it *The numbers printed in the lower left *Checks issued by large corporations comes to accepting checks. hand corner of legal checks are printed use a facsimile signature. Forgers will I recently learned of a seminar in a special magnetic ink. This ink does often write in the signature. which is conducted by a former bad not shine or glint under a bright light. check artist for the personnel of savings Forgers usually have difficulty in ob *Travelers' checks issued by the American and loans, banks, and retail stores. The taining this kind of ink. Express Company have one number individual who leads these classes claims the lower left-hand dollar amount shown that he was a millionaire by the time he *The numbers on cashier's checks are on the back-which will purposely smear was 19. He claims to have amassed this always printed. Forgers will often use when dampened slightly. This is the fortune through his skill as a con-artist a rubber stamp or pen to insert the num only number which will legitimately and forger. He began by using a system ber on a bogus check. smear on American Express Travelers' he devised for altering the deposit slips Checks. which banks have at their registration *Dividend or payroll checks issued counters for customer use. He cleverly by corporations normally have the *The first two digits in the magnetic applied numbers to these slips so that company name or logo printed on them code at the bottom left of a check the unsuspecting customer's deposit along with the firm's address. Frequently, designate the Federal Reserve district wound up in his account. forgers will leave off the address when where the bank on which the check is Forged checks have become a reproducing the company name or logo drawn is located. Forgers will usually serious problem in recent years. I am told on bogus checks. alter this number so that a bad check that this area of white-collar crime has will be routed first to a distant Federal seen an increase of 328% since 1975. Reserve district. The time elapsed in I believe it will be worth your while to *The use of color copying machines is returning the bogus check to the proper study the tips and information below on the increase by forgers. The printing district, and ultimately to the bank, and share the information with your on these phony checks will smear. The will give a few extra days of activity to associates. By doing so, you could save the bad check artist before he is obliged enough to pay your AWi dues for the to move on to another location. Know next ten years-or longer! the number of your local Federal Reserve district. *Use extra care when accepting checks *Most professional forgers are well which are numbered between 101 and dressed and confident. They usually 150. Checks with these numbers tradi make it a point to be seen driving a new, tionally comprise a large volume of very expensive car which creates the bad checks. This is especially true now image of success and throws the victim that many banks refuse to start new off guard. Often they will wear expensive account holders with higher numbers. watches and jewelry. *Checks exhibiting high numbers are *Forgers and robbers will often use a about 90% safe. They are usually from bright colored bandage, or the like, on old, established accounts. More and more their faces to attract attention. By so banks are beginning to use a three digit doing, they prevent the victim from paying number on their checks which tells the close attention to their facial features, month and year an account was opened. hair color, etc. Check with your local banks to see if they are using this system. I hope some of you will profit from this information. *When handling checks, remember that During the month of February, all checks other than U.S. Treasury the Executive Committee of the American checks have at least one rough edge Watchmakers Institute will have its mid exhibiting the perforations where they Milton C. Stevens year meeting to review our progress to have been torn from books or sheets. date and formulate policy for the re Most all phony checks have four smooth mainder of our fiscal year. UCJB
30 Horological Times/February 1980 You could be selling Maxell batteries right now.
Some of the world's most respected makers customers with an extensive line of high quality of calculators and fine watch instruments and precision manufactured battery products. factory-install Maxell Silver Oxide Batteries. It's obvious, Maxell should be the Because they can't risk a battery failure which replacement battery line you feature for all could damage their product. And electronic applications. After all, we their reputation. have your reputation to protect Maxell knows thatthe key to as well. your Battery Replacement Business Maxel I Corporation of America is personally servicing the needs of your 60 Oxford Drive, Moonachie, New Jersey 07074
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February 1980/Horological Times 3 I 0 There Is a VIGOR Polisher-Grinder-Dust Collector Bench Tips /Joe Crooks To Suit Your Needs Accutron Series 214 Hatch Springs By Irving H. Albert, Special Technical Services, Bulova Watch Company.
Experience has shown that many Accutron Series 214 watches stop and go even after full repair to the movement. This intermittent condition is often due to a flattened hatch spring. A hatch spring becomes flattened when the power cell is inserted upside down. Because the watch will not run with an upside-down power cell, the repairman, clerk, or watch owner reverses the cell, installing it correctly-printed side down-and the watch appears to work. The distorted spring, having been flattened, does not maintain proper contact and DOUBLE SPINDLE causes the watch to stop and go. • 1/2 HP - 3450 RPM To determine a properly fitted hatch spring, pro The POWERHOUSE ceed as follows: • Measures: 331/4" x 211/4" x 103/4" 1. Insert a new power cell into a cased movement (printed • Complete with spindles side down). DC-2000 $230.00 2. Assemble hatch cover firmly into case back. 3. Remove hatch cover from case back. 4. View cell for proper pressure mark. (See drawings) 5. If pressure mark is not visible, reshape or replace hatch spring. Editor's note: This is a good practice for checking power cell contact in all makes of electronic watches that use case hatches with a spring. Even the snap-type will leave a mark on the power cell if its spring is making a good strong contact.
• 1/3 HP - 3450 RPM The "ECONOMY MODEL" • Measures:201/4"x 171/4"x12" • Complete with spindles MARK~.'---g MARK ~ MARK~~ DC-2025 $175.00 214 Battery 214 Battery 214 Battery D 0 D ~ SPRING NO. 9934-1 ~ DISCONTINUED 9934-2 ~ Use 9934-2 SINGLE SPINDLE D 0 0 • 1/3 HP - 3450 RPM <> , For "LIMITED" REQUIREMENTS .. ~ 4 ) • Measures:153/a"x17"x101/4" H ATCH NO. 9871 14 Thread) 99028 (2 >S Thread) DISCONTINUED • Complete with spindle Use 99028 DC-1050 $138.00 (ASSEMBLED (ASSEMBLED (ASSEMBLED WITH SPRING)• WITH SPRING)• WITH SPRING) • 8. JADOW &SONS, INC. New York, N.Y.
Available through Jewelry/Lapidary Supply Houses •Hatch and Spring are sold separately.
32 Horological Times/February 1980 EATING CROW
Mr. Henry Frystak, Special Technical Services and Field Training Instrnctor for Bulova Wat;::h Company, gave me a call two seconds after he read my December column in this magazine. (It wasn't one of my better months.) Henry is such a nice, gentle fellow that it was three days later before I realized he called to chew me out! In between asking about the family and my health (I think he was referring to my sanity), he pointed out that in December's "Bench Tips," Mr. Dickey was greasing the balance pivots not for a heavy lube, but so that the staff wouldn't plate when he replated the balance wheel to prevent "streaking. " Well, Mr. Frystak, for your information, all 47 of my readers either called or wrote to point out the same thing. The ones who called were told that I was just checking to see how sharp they were, and as for the watchmakers who wrote, I made out like we didn't receive their letters. You know how it is. "Don't stir it if you don't like the smell."
About the other tip in the December column (which I suspect was the reason for his call), Henry went on to say that they at Bulova knew that twelve pulls on the tine could reveal whether the drop off was correct or not, but that that is all such information would prove. I tried to explain that all Mr. Airy was saying was that you could check drop off without getting out the microscope. He replied that this wouldn't repair the watch and would only discourage using the microscope which is .a must for proper indexing ofAccutrons. He also added something like, ''Didn't I teach you better than this?" His point was that no matter how keen your eyes are, without the microscope it is almost impossible to check numerous things which cannot be seen with an eye loupe and which could cause a come back; for example, the exact alignment of the index jewels in relation to the index wheel, trneness of the fingers for toe in or out, or any slight damage to the jewels or index wheel.
Thank goodness he got a call on another line and signed off with wishing me a Merry Christmas and a pros perous New Year and was looking forward to seeing me in June. I'll bet he isl He will probably hit me with a base ball bat. To be on the safe side, all future Accutron tips will be cleared with Mr. Frystak before publishing. ur:::IB
If you have a bench tip you would like to share, send it 13750 Neutron Road • Dallas, Texas 75234 to "Jingle Joe" Crooks, 265 N. Main St., Mooresville, NC CALL Nationwide Texas only 28115. TOLL-FREE! 800-527-4722 800-492-4104
February 1980/Horological Times 33 Movements-Cases - Findings- Sure S
GOOD USED POPULAR MOVEMENTS- SWPAC Swiss WP reg automatic watch, 17J LOW, LOW PRICES! ...... SALE 9.50 SWPADD Swiss WP automatic cal or DD watches, __ JJ100 FF120, 7J ...... 5 for 10.00 17J ...... SALE 14.00 __ JJ101 FF120, 17J ...... 5 for 15.50 OMA Omega Seamaster automatic watch, used, JJ102 FF60, 7J ...... 5 for 10.00 runs; no band ...... 40.00 JJ103 FF60, 17J ...... 5for18.00 OMR Omega reg (not auto) 17J watch, used, __ JJ104 FF69, 7Jlnca ...... 5for17.50 runs; no band ...... 30.00 ___ JJ105 FF69, 17J Inca ...... 5 for 22.50
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34 Horological Times/February 1980 av1ngs• from j[MARSH ALL-~WA RTCHILD
___ JB-12X-96 12 asst'd watch bands, center clasps & 6XARC 6 asst'd adjustable rhinestone clasps ratchets-various styles-JB-Kest-Arnex ···· · · ·· ...... 2S5 etc. white & yellow. Less than 38 cents 6XRC 6 asst'd rhinestone clasps ...... 1.95 each- all 12 for only .. , ...... 4.49 6XFC 6 asst'd foldover clasps ...... 98 BONUS-Black Cord supplied for all 12, 63861 36 asst'd pinstems, 3 sizes : 1 3/4 in., FREE 2 in., 3 in.-nickel silver-value $4.50 QT572 6 dz asst'd optical screws-Reg. 3.50 . . .. . ' '' ...... ' '' . ... . '.1.45 ...... SALE 1.98 i2XPB 12 asst'd pinstems w/backs ...... 1.95 -- 4-493 1 dz asst'd nose pads-Reg. 5.00SALE 2.45 300-301 36 asst'd pinstems, Cobb, nickel silver 5-TE 10 asst'd Dual and other wire temples- & yellow plated ...... 2.45 Reg . 10.00 ...... SALE 2.45 F215 6 asst'd 1 OKt yellow pinstems, sizes LF022 12 prs asst'd temple covers-Reg. 5.00 3/8, 1 /2, 5/8, 7 /16, 3/4, 1 1/8, 1 1 /4, ...... SALE2.45 1 5/8, 2 1 /4-1 OKt gold ...... 9 .95 __ 36-BU 35 asst'd gen packaged Bulova spring 140-141 6 asst'd 1 OKt yellow Fuller safety catches, bars, yellow & white, small sizes-Reg. 7.50 Reg. $18.00 ...... 7.95 ...... SALE2.45 6XB 6 asst'd clutch backs ...... , 1.45 __ 14A 100 spring bars, asst'd . , ...... 1.69 1272/ 6 asst'd joints, 14Kt white-Reg. $25.00 __ 44P020 500 spring bars, asst'd ...... , .7.45 1276 ...... 9S5 __ TS-P11 100 11 / 16 to 3/4 telescope spring bars- 651707 3 dz rivets ...... , ....98 Reg . 5.00 ...... SALE 2.45 5969/ 6 yellow GF bows for mothers' pendant TSP5 100 5/8 to 11 /16 telescope spring bars- 5979 and wrist watches ...... _ .. .4.95 Reg. 5.00 ...... SALE 2.45 64574 5 asst'd Capri, Deb & Empress 14Kt __ DF3 100 double flange 3/4 spring bars-Reg. yellow, 14Kt white, yel GF, gold plated, 5.00 ...... SALE 2.45 sterling screw clasps ...... 6.95 -- 649651 1-dz package 1 in . GO-GO spring bars- 12CS 12 asst'd claw springs ...... 1.95 Rge . 1.50 ...... , .. . . . SALE .49 14-16 etc. 1 dz asst'd yel & wh Benrus, Bulova, __ 144JP 1 gross yellow & white jump rings .. ...98 Bestfit claw springs ...... 1.45 __ 33TN 6 dz split rings, nickel - per 6 dz .... . 3.20 12XMTG 1 dz asst'd ear mountings ...... 1.95 __ 33TN Same -per gross . . .. . 5.95 3XTS 3 sterling toggles ...... 4.25 __ 36SR 3 dz yellow plated spring rings ...... 2.98 12XSH 12 Sister hooks, yellow & white, .. ..3.95 __ 44A108 1 gross asst'd split rings , YG F & WG F, 64797 Pearl shorteners ...... 12 asst'd for 2.95 still at special low price ...... Gross 15.00 644798 Aurora Borealis wh ite . .. 12 asst'd for 2.95 __ 2122 YGF friction ear nuts-specail price 644799 Aurora Borealis yellow .. 12 asst'd for 2.95 . .. . , . .. . . , . ... . , . ... Dozen 1.50 263F 36 asst'd foil backs, asst'd colors .. . . . 1.95 __ 2133 SS friction ear nuts-special price of 12XFBC 12 asst'd fishline bead cord (nylon), ... . , ...... Dozen 1. 75 individual cards of 3 yds each-60 yds __ 2111/Y Yellow 14Kt friction ear nuts-special total-Reg. $22.00 ...... 7.95 price ...... Dozen 10.95 54-107-1 3 spools dacron bead cord. 50 yds No. 1 __ C-13 9mm SS Cobb spring rings-Reg. & 15.00 ...... ,, ...... 2.95 dz ...... Dozen 7.50 5HXCO 3 spools asst'd Hastings nylon bead cord _ _ 6983 6 asst'd Bulova, Benrus, etc. yellow & .... . ' . . . . ' . ' ' ...... 3.45 white bracelet guard chains & plungers 5XBCL Watch bracelet cord, black, 5 yd card . '' ' ' ' '. ' . ' . .. . ' ...... 1.98 . . . '' . . ... ' ...... ' . . ... ' . .98 __ 3XCB 3 tie-tack backs w/hoggle safety chain 54XEE2 12 dz asst'd bead needles, brass-Reg...... 98 $10.00 ...... 4.50 6XCB 6 safety tie-tack backs for screw back 54XEX12 1 gross bead needles ...... 2.95 (no chain) . .. • ...... 98 24XWF 1 dz wicks, 1 dz flints ...... 98 __ 6XBU 6 Bulova Adjust-A-Ring guards, asst'd BS 100 asst'd Bulova screws ...... 17.95 sizes ...... 2.39 STC 144 asst'd Seiko bracelet screws .. . . 22.50 -- 627048 White clingring ladies' ring guards. 6XCO Lots of 6 sterling coin mountings for ...... _ ...... Dozen 2.49 US half-dollar ...... 10.95 _ _ 6XCL 6 asst'd sterling clasps . ... _ ...... 2.95
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February 1980/Horological Times 35 Chime and Strike Work: THE NEW HAVEN CHIME MOVEMENT *
By Steven G. Conover
Figure 1 JTEVBV G. CO!VOYE.R J..37.3
ew Haven is one of the more to chime and strike properly. First some also winds two tiny mainsprings to N well-known names in the history background on the clock. power the chime and strike trains. These of American clockmaking. The company The movement itself is not can be wound up with an auxiliary key was started in the l 850's during the marked with a model number. However, from the rear of the clock. Aside from early years of the age of mass-produced the following list of patent dates is the mode of power, it is the same clocks. At first, New Haven made thirty stamped on the rear plate: as the pendulum movement for pur hour brass works, but in time the firm NEW HA VEN CLOCK CO. poses of adjustment. expanded their line to include a variety PATENTED The New Haven pendulum move of eight-day lever and pendulum move JAN-1-1918 ment is quite small and has round plates. ments. You are probably familiar with FEB-19-1918 It is only 3 7 / 8 inches in diameter, or several of the New Haven movements NOV-28-1922 4 5/8 inches including the mainspring if you repair or collect clocks. AUG-14-1923 barrels. The movement plays Westminster In this installment of the "Chime DEC-25-1923 chimes on four rods. On the larger and Strike" series, we will look at the Throughout this article I will New Havens having this movement, New Haven chime. It is a common be referring to the spring-driven pendulum hour striking is done on the fifth rod. movement but quite different from other model New Haven. I should mention Smaller tambour models have room for chime movements you will see. I will that it was also offered in an electric only four rods and hammers inside the identify the chime and strike parts, version marked "OBx" on the lower cases, so the movements are modified explain how they work, and describe part of the rear movement plate. The to strike on the first and third rods a method for adjusting the movement electric motor runs the time train and instead.
36 Horological Times/February 1980 *©Steven G. Conover 1979 0
CHIME LIFT PINS (4 pins) 2 CHIME BARREL 3 CHIME WARNING LEVER 4 CHIME LOCK PIN 5 CHIME LOCK ARM 6 CHIME FAN OR FLY 7 CHIME LOCK LEVER 8 RACK 9 STRIKE LOCK PIECE 10 RACK LEVER 11 GATHERING PIECE 12 RACK PIN 13 STRIKE BARREL 14 SNAIL 15 MINUTE WHEEL Figure 2 16 TIME BARREL
Because of its small size, the the three trains to be arranged in over The chime cycle begins with the warning New Haven movement was installed lapping tiers within a very compact at least five minutes before each quarter in a variety of different cases. Figure 1 space. There are three different lengths hour. One of the four chime lift pins (1) shows one of the larger styles, a nicely of arbors within the movement. Some raises the chime warning lever (3) which proportioned case 18 inches tall. Other run from the front to the rear plate, in turn pushes up the chime lock lever versions of this shelf clock were made others from the front to the middle (7). The chime lock pin (4) is moved in Gothic or cathedral designs. New plate, and the rest from the middle to out of the way of the chime lock arm Haven also used the same chime move the rear plate. and fan (5 & 6), releasing them to turn. ment in a banjo clock and a number of The chime parts on the front After only 3Qo of rotation, the chime large amd small tambours. The "Toledo" of the movement are shown in Figure 2. lock arm is stopped by the chime warning tambour is only 18 inches wide at the base and 5 inches deep-quite small for a chime tambour.
Layout of the New Haven movement is rather unusual. The company did not use a conventional chime move ment design in which the three gear trains are placed next to each other. Instead a third movement plate was added between the other two. This allowed
February 1980/Horo/ogica/ Times 3 7 17 STRIKE 4th WHEEL 19 18 CHIME LOCK PIECE 19 STRIKE LIFT LEVER 20 STRIKE WARNING PIN 21 STRIKE WARNING (5th) WHEEL 22 STRIKE WARNING LEVER 23 CHIME SILENCER LEVER 24 LOCKING PLATE 25 STRIKE ACTUATING PIN 26 CHIME DRIVE GEAR 27 CHIME DRUM GEAR 28 STRIKE LOCK PIN 29 HAMMERS 30 STRIKE LOCK ARM
Figure 3 lever. This is the warning. third quarter, and sixteen notes on the chimes. The longest arc is for the sixteen The rear movement view in hour. note hour chime. At the beginning of Figure 3 shows the locking plate (24) Chime locking happens at the this arc there is a raised section. It takes with its four slots. During the warning, end of each chime note sequence. The a higher lift to raise the chime lock piece the chime lock piece ( 18) comes up chime lock piece drops down into the out of the slot and over the high spot out of the slot. All the chime parts stay next slot in the locking plate. At the to start the hour chime. Every quarter at their warning positions for several same time, the chime lock lever on the hour, one of the chime lift pins raises minutes until the quarter hour arrives. front of the movement drops also, and the chime linkage, but only one pin Exactly at the quarter, the the chime lock pin catches the spinning out of the four can lift high enough for chime lift pin has moved just far enough chime lock arm and fan. The gear train the hour. This means the sixteen-note around to release the chime warning stops. hour chime can sound only on the hour, lever. The l.ever drops down to its pre The New Haven movement auto and not at any other time. warning position. Now the chime lock matically corrects the chimes if the The New Haven strike train is arm and fan are free to turn. The chime sequence is upset. For example, someone a rack and snail type. To find the start train starts running. The chime drive may turn the minute hand either forward of the strike cycle, refer to Figure 3. gear (26) mounted on the locking plate or backward so that the first quarter There is a strike actuating pin (25) turns the chime drum gear (27). The chime sounds at the half hour. Within driven into the underside of the locking drum itself is made up of brass discs one hour the clock will correct any such plate. As the locking plate rotates through with tabs for lifting the hammers (29) chime error. Here's how it works. the hour chime, it brings the pin under in sequence to play the chime melody. Look at the locking plate in neath the strike warning lever (22). Westminster chimes are counted as four Figure 3 and you will see that its cir The warning lever is pushed up, and it notes at the first quarter, eight notes cumference is divided into four unequal in turn raises the strike lift lever (19). at the half hour, twelve notes at the arcs corresponding to the quarter hour The strike lock arm (30) moves upward
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too, releasing the strike lock pin (28) mesh incorrectly, the warning pin travel but it cannot chime because the lock which is on the fourth wheel ( 17). The will be wrong each time. You'll have to pin keeps getting in the way of the chime train now goes to warning as the strike separate the plates a little to cure this lock arm and fan. Setting the chime lock warning pin (20) mounted on the fifth problem. Start by taking off the chime piece for a higher lift will cure this. wheel (21) is stopped by the strike lock piece and strike lift lever. It is However, if the lift is too high, the clock warning lever. best to have the pendulum suspension will not go to warning at all. Don't forget Going back to the front of the unit and the spring barrels out also. to tighten the set screw again after you movement and Figure 2, locate the rack Don't forget to let down the mainsprings. are satisfied with the adjustment. lever (1 O) . During the warning, this Loosen the pillar screws and separate Another common chime problem lever lifts the strike lock piece ( 9). the plates enough to permit easing involves the spring-loaded disc behind The rack (8) is released to drop onto several of the strike train pivots out the locking plate. In Figure 3 you can see the snail (14). Just as the hour chime of their holes. Carefully put the fourth a small portion of this disc showing in ends, the strike actuating pin (rear of wheel and the pinion on the fifth arbor each of the four slots in the locking plate. movement) has gone far enough to drop together again the right way. The purpose The disc is supposed to slide underneath the strike warning lever. The strike of all this is to make sure that you are the chime lock piece as it comes up for warning pin now escapes from the warning going to have a strike warning run of the warning. If the disc does not move lever and the train starts to run. The the fifth wheel. Clocks that have been underneath the lock piece to support gathering piece (11) counts off rack assembled with little or no run of the it, the piece just falls back into the same teeth to measure out the correct number gears at warning tend to stall when the slot at the quarter hour. The clock does of hammer blows for the hour. At the chime should begin. not chime. To correct the problem, end of the count, the strike lock piece The next step is to reassemble all you usually need to do is to clean and the rack pin ( 12) reach the end of the the movement and wind the three main the locking plate and disc assembly to rack. The strike lock arm (inside of springs. Put on the minute hand and free up the spring action. If this is not movement) stops the strike lock pin. turn through several quarters. Watch the the answer, look for an unhooked or The strike cycle is finished. gears to see if the chime train is working damaged spring. Adjusting the chime and strike properly, including automatic chime When you have the chime train trains is not difficult. First, make sure correction. If the chime action is not working properly, you should check the the strike train fourth and fifth wheels right, you will have to loosen the set hammer sequence. The easiest way with can be set with the warning and locking screw on the chime lock piece and make any Westminster chime clock is to listen pins arranged as shown in Figure 3. some atljustments. A common problem for four descending notes at the first They should be assembled this way so is that the chime lock lever on the front quarter. If a movement is out of its case, the warning pin can run about a half of the movement is not held high enough. revolution at the warning. If the gears The clock may go to chime warning, (Continued on page 63)
February 1980/Horo/ogica/ Times 39 izing rings may sound like a simple operation, but when we take E into account all of the many sizes, shapes, and materials found in RING rii/i!J jewelry finger rings, size alterations can become understandably complex. The necessary tools and materials for ring sizing are illustrated in Figures 1 and 2. Figure 1 :(I) rawhide mallot, (2) bench pin filing block, SIZING (3) sheet solder, (4) torch, (5) ring clamp, (6) flux in small jar and flux brush, (7) asbestos pad. Figure 2: (1) ring mandrel, (2) jewelers saw, (3) flat nosed pliers, ( 4) side-cutting pliers, (5) chain nose pliers, ( 6) fine cut, half round file, (7) parallel pliers, (8) fine cut flat file-smooth edges. (9) sheet By metal shears, (I 0) heavy duty tweezers, (11) dividers, (12) vernier calipers or mm gauge, (13) watchmakers bow pliers, (14) three-corner or triangular Marshall F. needle file, (15) chasers hammer. Materials that will be needed in addition to the solder and flux mentioned are: ring sizing stock for enlarging; pickling Richmond solution; shielding material (wet sand, wet tissue, or commercial shielding compound); jar of water for rinsing after pickling; tripoli and rouge for polishing. Also necessary is the polishing equipment shown in Figures 3 and 4. Many of these tools you will already have because they are watch makers' tools that you probably use every day. We will begin by following, step by step, the simplest sizing job which is making a plain wedding band smaller. We will assume that the ring is a size six and we want to change it to a five. Take a jewelers saw, hold the ring on the bench pin, and saw through the ring, making a clean, per pendicular cut. With the dividers, measure 1 size on the ring gauge (Figure 5) or measure 2.61 mm with the vernier caliper and mark for the second cut in the band. Saw this cut parallel to the first and the piece removed will be 2.61 mm less one saw blade thickness. With watchmakers bow pliers, bend the ring to close this gap and align the ends so they match perfectly. Break off a piece of solder just large enough to cover the end of a cut and insert it in the break in the ring. Light and adjust the torch, and apply heat so that flux applied with the flux brush will sizzle. With the flux brush, cover the joint area with flux and heat with the torch. Apply the flame directly to the solder and play the flame back and forth so both sides of the solder heat evenly and the solder flows to both sides simultaneously. Caution should be used in heating as excessive heat can cause the solder to boil, leaving pits in the joint that will not polish out. While the ring is still hot, dip it in the pickling solution, and rinse it in water to remove the residue flux and any oxides that have accumulated on the ring. With a loupe or magnivisor, in spect the solder joint to see that the solder has flowed evenly, leaving a strong Figure 1 bonded joint. With the half-round file, file any excess solder from the inside of the ring and then place the ring on 7 the mandrel. Tap the ring with the rawhide mallot toward the large end of the mandrel until the ring is per fectly round. Check to see that the 6 ring is a size five. If slightly under a five, it can easily be brought up to size by continuing to tap with the mallot toward the large end of the mandrel. If larger than a five, it will have to be cut again, a small piece removed, and the process repeated. With the flat file, file the edges of the ring smooth and then top-shape the solder joint to match the rest of the ring. Polishing should start with an inside ring buff (finger) 4 wrapped with a cone of fine emery cloth held in place with a brass ring.
40 Horological Times/February 1980 (Any ring about size thirteen will do.) With this rotating on 14 15 the polishing motor, slip the ring on and apply enough pres sure to remove file marks and leave a satin finish. The outside and sides of the ring can also be applied to this with the same results. Remove the emery cone and apply tripoli to the buffing finger. Again slip the ring over it and polish the inside until shiny. Rouge is a finer cutting abr~sive than tripoli and it will produce the final mirror-bright finish. One inside ring buff and one outside cotton buff should be impregnated with tripoli. Another pair of similar buffs should be impregnated with rouge. These should all be clearly marked so that no other abrasive will be used with these buffs. Polish the out side of the ring with the cotton tripoli buff, and then give it the final finish with the rouge buffs. After polishing is completed, the final step is to wash the ring thoroughly in a solution of soap and ammonia, a commercial solution, or in an ultrasonic tank. Although this may seem to be a lengthy Figure2 procedure, it can be done in Jess than five minutes. Creating a "V" joint is one method of producing a stronger joint in ring sizing. See Figure 6. After the ring is cut, spread it enough to use a needle file (triangular) to file a notch on one side. With a flat file, make a knife edge on the other side that will fit perfectly into the notch when the ring is bent back together. After fluxing , place a small piece of solder on either the top or bottom of this joint. When the ring is preheated in the joint and flux applied, the flux will sizzle and turn white. If the solder is applied imme diately with a damp flux brush, it will stick to the ring. Apply heat with the torch to the side of the joint opposite the solder and play the flame directly on and around the joint until the metal starts to turn red and the solder flows. Applying heat opposite the solder will pull the solder throug.11 the joint and make a good bond. Usually this will leave an excess of Figure 3. Polishing Motor solder around the joint. This excess will help the ring to with Two withstand hammering with a steel chasers hammer should Tapered Spindles this be necessary in order to stretch the ring a little. I always for Quick Change of intentionally undersize 1/4 to 1/2 size and hammer it out Buffs to size . This accomplishes two things: first, it proves that the solder joint is good (if it doesn't break) and second, it saves recutting and sizing should the ring turn out to be too large. It is very easy to miscalculate and make the ring too large. 2 If while hammering, the joint reaches the thickness of the shank before the necessary size is reached, the ring can be removed from the mandrel and placed on the large end or on a flat anvil and hammered from the sides. This will increase the thickness in the joint and allow for more hammering on the mandrel. When the ring is brought to the correct size , the same filing, shaping, and polishing procedures are used as in the butt joint method. Either of the aforementioned methods, butt joint or "V" joint, can be used to size rings larger. The only difference is that a piece of metal must be added, requiring 7 two joints instead of one. To determine how large a piece of metal to add, first consider that is should be slightly larger •
Figure 4. (1) Tripoli Polishing Abrasive (2) Rouge Polishing Abrasive (3) Inside Ring Buff for Tripoli (4) Emery Cone on Inside Ring Buff (5) Inside Ring Buff for Rouge (6 & 7) Cotton Polishing Buffs Richmond. CMW for Tripoli and Rouge
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2.61 mm making rings smaller. ri Sizing by stretching and com pressing (shrinking) can be accomplished with the use of a piece of equipment called a ring stretcher. See Figure 7. 11111 1111 111 11 This can be purchased from your material 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 910 11 1213 distributor. Although it may seem costly, ----38 mm-----' Figure 5 . it can pay for itself in a very short while ------71 mm------' Ring Gauge: in terms of time saved. Almost all uniform Totel length for Size 0: 38.00 mm Can be used wedding-band type rings without stones Total length for Size 13: 71 .00 mm to make a can easily be stretched one or two sizes Each size from 0 to 13: 2 .61 mm ring or to ------~ measure sizes without danger of distortion. Half-round uniform bands up to six millimeters in both thickness and width than the ring joints. Then place the little squares of in width can be compressed or shrunk shank. Determining the length can be solder over the joints with the moist flux easily one or two sizes. Caution must done in two ways; either by using the brush and apply the heat from the be used in shrinking flat, engraved, or dividers to measure the number of sizes opposite side of the shank. Before the wide (over six millimeters) bands, but needed and cutting a piece to that length, solder flows, it will melt and form a it can be done. Compressing wide bands or by sliding the ring on the mandrel sphere. Then as the shank turns red, it can reduce the edges only, leaving the to the size needed, measuring the gap, will flow through the joint towards inner part the same size with a curved and cutting a piece to that length. If the the heat. It is best to try and flow one surface from edge to edge. Compressing "V" method is to be used, add approxi side at a time, and as soon as one side engraved bands can damage the engraving mately double the thickness of the ring flows, switch the heat to the other side. on the edges of the band. The ring shank, as that is close to the amount lost If the ring is not set with stones, it can stretcher has an expandable ring mandrel in using the two "V" cuts in the joints. be dipped (quenched) in the pickle and that is operated by a lever and calibrated See Figure 6. If using the "V" joint, the rinsed in water. (Pickling stone-set rings in ring sizes from two to fourteen. To ring should be spread so the piece will will be explained later in this article.) stretch a ring, slide it on the mandrel, slide in with just enough pressure to Before any filing, place the ring on the pull the lever, and release. Turn the ring hold it in place. With the butt joint, this mandrel and round with the rawhide about 1/ 8 of a turn and pull the lever step is a little more difficult as the mallet. If the ring is 1/2 size less than again. After doing this two or three times, pressure must be just right or when heat the desired size, it can be hammered out remove the ring and reverse the edge is applied, the expansion will add pressure to size with the steel chasers hammer that faces the larger end of the mandrel. and the piece may pop out. In either (or any other small steel hammer). This will prevent one side from being joint, the solder and heat applications From here on, the finishing process is stretched larger than the other. It is wise are the same. First heat and flux both the same as previously described for to check the size of the ring on your
42 Horological Times/February 1980 Need high temperatures in tiny places? The amazing Little Torch is so tiny hydrogen, propane, natural gas or it can throw a f l ame of 6300' F. Mapp. It's available with five tips through the eye of a needle. It sol· ranging i n size from one large ders, brazes, welds and heats with enough to wel d 16 ga . steel to one Support the exacting precision in the smallest small enough to weld .002" copper places; uses oxygen and acetylene, wire. For free brochure write to: AWi - ELM TRUST Scholarship Program by Sending your old watch batteries to the
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Figure6 steel mandrel from time to time because desired size. In stretching rings over the calibrations on the stretcher cannot two sizes, it is wise to first anneal them be absloutely accurate due to its being which will reduce the damage that may expandable. For shrinking, the tool has occur in distortion or breaking. Gold a disc about 3/4 in. thick and 4 in. in when annealed is so workable that once diameter. This contains a series of tapered I stretched a half-round, two millimeter holes on each side that are graduated band from size five to size eleven by • in size so as a ring gets smaller, it can be annealing twice. This was not done to changed to a smaller hole to make the make it fit a finger but to reduce the size ring smaller still. Operated by the lever of the gold for use in ring sizing. Figure 7. Ring Stretcher is a round, flat-surfaced plunger that of the ring. During the process of sizing is adjustable up and down and centers Stretching tapered or stone set by stretching or shrinking, the ring over any hole that is aligned under it. rings is not recommended until you are should be checked frequently with To shrink the ring, select a hole that will proficient enough in general jewelry magnification. At the first sign of dis let the ring protrude above the surface repair to repair any damage that you tortion, this method should be aban of the disc from one to two millimeters, may incur. Stretching stone-set rings doned in favor of one of the other screw the plunger down until it touches, may elongate the settings, thus loosening methods described in this article. After and pull the lever. Turn the ring over the stones. In tapered rings, this may sizing by any method, the ring must after each pull of the lever and change to distort the shape of the ring as the smaller holes as necessary to reach the stretch will occur in the weakest part (Continued on page 57)
February 1980/Horological Times 43 A.ntide Janvier: CL.QC KM AKER OF GENIUS From the Manuscript and Photo Library of Orville R. Hagans, CMW, CMC, FBHI
hen in Paris, you will find a visit museum. However, beyond being a to the Musee du Conservatoire craftsman and a real artist, democratic W des Arts et Metiers most re minded Janvier was a philosopher, ever warding. Though it is one of the most chafing under the absolute monarchy interesting museums in Paris, it is not and ever-campaigning against its evils well known even by the French them then prevailing in France. Throughout selves. his life, his rapier wit and indignation By special request to the keeper, at the social inequities and lack of demo you may be allowed to view a score cracy of the times prevented him from or so of the most remarkable timepieces currying favor with the mightly for ever turned out in France, such as a clock all his great talent and eventually earned with a "universal face that can tell the for him the nickname of the "Mad time in 52 different places," or a time Clockmaker of Genius." piece which gives the hours of the tide in various harbors all over the world, or an At the age of 22, he was com elaborate precision watch believed to missioned by King Louis XV of France have been used by Fouche, the Police to make a complicated planetarium. On Minister of Napoleon I, to time the his way to bring it to his royal patron who audiences he granted. resided in the palace of Fontainebleau, All such intriguing timepieces Janvier unfortunately quarreled with were executed by an even more intriguing the Marshal of Richelieu, the all-powerful and colorful Frenchman who went by favorite of the king. Instead of a royal the improbable name of Antide Janvier audience, the clockmaker was clapped and who flourished during the late 18th into the Bastille, that prison of state and early 19th centuries. where those ill-starred enough to incur A self-made man born in 1751 the displeasure of the king and his cour the son of a humble Jura craftsman, tiers were held without warrant. Janvier was a native of those mountainous parts of eastern France bordering on As you know, this fortress in Switzerland. Ever since the 16th century, the heart of Paris, symbol of the old the snow-bound farmers of this region order and royal arbitrariness, was taken have been turning their hands to clock by storm and demolished by the enraged making during the long winter months. populace on July 14, 1789. Were it not Raised in such a fine tradition for the death of Louis XV a year after of clockmaking, Janvier executed when Janvier's arrest, the clockmaker might barely 17, a large, intricate planetarium well have languished until then in the which earned for him early recognition Figure 1. The Famed Astonomical Clock Bastille, together with Latude who, and which you may admire at the Paris forgotten by everybody, spent thirty
~~C1980 ~% ~~~ CMC, CMW, FBHI
44 Horological Times/February 1980 years there for daring to lampoon La Pompadour, Louis XV's mistress. Fortunately, the mechanically minded Louis XVI, a locksmith of no mean talent himself, hastened to get the clockmaker out of jail. Janvier was appointed Royal clockmaker and Louis paid him the then fabulous sum of 24,000 livres-the equivalent of about $100,000 today-for a great astronomical clock. However, here again our irrepres sible Janvier was to fall into disgrace. As the story goes, Queen Marie-Antoinette did not find at all "pretty" this geographic clock of his when he and his master piece were presented to her. Small wonder that the queen found the clock too bare and austere in appearance. In absolute contradiction to the elaborate, pastry-cook, rococo style in favor during the 18th century, Janvier consistently refused to include in his timepieces any flourish merely for the sake of ornament. He encased them in a simple frame of blued steel, concentrating on lavishing all his pains taking care on their extraordinarily complicated and accurate works. Confronted with the Royal bad taste, and as temperamental as a prima donna, Janvier was not diplomat enough to hide his feelings. However, as it was already 1791, there was no Bastille to throw him into for this slip of his ever sharp tongue. Figure 2. (upper left) Janvier Calendar Clock with Moon Phases Janvier found a spiritual home in the subsequent French Revolution Figure 3. (upper right) Clock with Calendar, Moon Phases, and Time of which abolished many of the old regime's all French Towns evils. It heaped many honors on him, appointing him as a member of the Figure 4. (right) Janvier Tidal Clock "Art Commission" which served as the ministry of beaux-arts and gave him a sumptuous flat in the one-time royal palace of the Louvres. He then turned out what is considered by good French collectors as his greatest masterpiece: a clock which tells the time in every town in France. (Local time was then based on the nearest meridian.) Janvier made clocks and watches for Napoleon and his Marshals. The French fleet at the battle of Trafalgar was equipped with his astronomical instruments. Though his masterpieces earned. for him the highest awards at the Paris 1800, 1806, and 1823 shows, his lack of business sense and painstaking perfectionism prevented him from ever getting rich. The "Mad Clockmaker of Genius" died a pauper in Paris in 1835 at the age of 84. His extremely rare timepieces, made of a fire-gilded brass of a rich golden-green hue, are easily recognizable by the very simplicity of their fine, functional style. They are regarded by the French as the most perfect specimens of the clockmaking art in existence. 'i1L'.JJ3
February 1980/Horological Times 45 842 ULTRASONIC CLEANING UNIT THE COUPON BELOW IS WORTH $10.00 OFF THE Scholastically Speaking/ ... REGULAR $59.95 PRICE .~ 842-110 $59.95 -10.00 $49.95 with coupon Do You Know
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n my monthly excursions into the realm of educational I idiosyncrasies, I have touched upon subjects dealing with teachers, facilities, programs, processes, and operations; in fact, upon everything but the primary object of the edu cational process-the student. This is the time of year when potential students begin to make career plans, and many 76-End Cutting Pller of them experience difficulties in selecting the occupation Extremely durable chrome vanadiam cutter can be used for for which their talents are best suited. Perhaps it may be years, Cuts hard stainless steel wires up to .040 thickness. 5%'' length. possible to sway a few into watchmaking if we can help them decide whether or not their qualifications are adequate. rj HEAVIER CONSTRUCTION JO-OI GAUGE, THE ONLY MILLIMETER To begin with, I would like to suggest that watch 'f CALIPER GAUGE TO ESTIMATE WEIGHT OF MOUNTED DIA making is equally suited to men and women provided that !iW,ii MONDS IN FOUR SHAPES WITHOUT REMOVING STONE FROM # MOUNTING. THE SUPERIOR GAUGE READOUT IN MILLIMETERS. other requirements are met. At George Brown College, we INCLUDES ··cLEAR TYPE" TABLES-EASY TO READ GAUGE IS OF SPECIALLY TEMPERED SPACE AGE METAL WITH CLEARLY were fortunate to attract several young ladies into our pro VISIBLE NUMBERS. AN EXCELLENT VALUE COMPLETE. RECTANGLE gram, and on the average, they have proven to be as competent as male students. Although sex stereotyping may have retarded (J the mechanical abilities in female students somewhat, we found that after a few initial difficulties, they quickly regained MARQUISE lost ground. Includes clear type tables Age is no barrier to success, but students younger Easy to read gauge is of 0 than seventeen sometimes require extra time for adjustment. Specially tempered space age metal with clearly It is interesting to note here that in most European countries, visible numbers an ex apprenticeship starts at about fourteen years of age. I have cellent value complete also trained people in their early fifties and found no significant difference between them and their younger colleagues. The level of formal education is important, but only in a limited way. A student with less than a tenth-grade background may develop into an excellent mechanic, but will likely have problems understanding theoretical concepts. The success of such students depends on their determination and on the standards of the given college or school. There are a number of watchmaking schools for which a twelfth grade education is the minimum standard for acceptance. W.4rc o?'-\\.s HMAKERS & JEWELf.RS S\\ . To avoid delays and disappointments, applicants would be WATS LINES wise to consult the AWi roster of schools before applying MO. 1-800-392-7741 NATIONAL 1-800-325-7090 to a specific school. 915 Olive St., St. Louis. MO 63101. .. 241-0770 Physical disabilities are not a major deterent, but some may be severe enough to prevent the potential student Quick Credit to accounts well rated by either from being successful. If a person is so severely handicapped Dun & Bradstreet or Jewelers Board of Trade that he/she cannot sit quietly and concentrate for a long ------~ ... --- period of time, or has limited hand movement, it may be $10 off the regular price of $59.95 on the S42 I Ultrasonic Cleaning Unit with this coupon I impossible to adapt to the necessary manipulative skills I required by a watchmaker. Poor vision is definitely a handicap, I but good corrected vision is not. Good hearing is an asset, but I a limited impairment could possibly be overcome. At George Address ______I Brown College, we are currently attempting to train a deaf I girl with very limited hearing. How successful we will be City/State/Zip I remains to be seen. Return this coupon to: I I The Nest Co., 915 Olive St., St. Louis, MO 63101 I By far the most important requirement for a suc ~------~ cessful watchmaker is mechanical aptitude. This natural 46 Horological Times/February 1980 Joseph Rugole
Joseph Rugole
mechanical ability does not have to be exceptional, but Cubic Zirconia without at least an average endowment one cannot hope Hard, Brilliant, and to be a successful watchmaker. We have trained a physically Stable in Color! handicapped person with about a fourth-grade education, poor facility in the English language, but good mechanical NEW LOW PRICES! aptitude to become a successful, self-employed watchmaker. (Request FREE brochure We could not succeed in training a university graduate with and price list) a general arts degree to perform even the simple operations We stock All SIZES, ALL SHAPES! required in the first year of training. The irony was that these two individuals started in the same class. 0 t SINCE: 1923 Tempus fugit UCJI3 l}(Ul!,S INC- > DEPT HT FORMERLY SOUTHWEST SMELTING & REFINI NG 10803 COMPOSITE S R ., DALLAS. TEXAS 75220 431 ISOM RO,. SAN AKfT'ONtO. TEXAS 78216 1725 VICTOR Y BLVD .. GLENDALE. CA 91201
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ormer students of the Houston Technical College, Candace MDC-1201 DIGITAL WATCH F Pitchford and Ben Conner, dropped by the Houston MODULE TESTER Technical College so Leo Helmprecht, Manager of Field Training Services of the Bulova Watch Company, could present them with their Certified Accutron plaques. Mr. Helmprecht $145.00 was at the Houston Technical College conducting tests for Accutron Certification. At last, a digital watch module tester that is simple enough for everyone to use, versitile enough to perform all the basic tasks, yet in expensive enough for everyone to afford! FEATURES INCLUDE· • LED and LCD testing capability at the flip of a switch. • Spring loaded watch battery size con tacts. • Completely portable; operates with 2 standard size "C" batteries. • Bench size: measures only 4" x 6" x 3" high. • Microampere current drain measure ment capability. • Full one year warranty. • Comes with instructions and helpful trouble shooting guide. CALL OR WRITE FOR OUR FREE CATALOGUE
DIGITAL WATCH REPAIR PARTS AND EQUIPMENT
(Left to Right) Leo Helmprecht of the Bulova Watch Company, 1 STATE RD., MEDIA, PA 19063 Candace Pitchford, and Ben Connor (215) 565-7610
February 1980/Horological Times 4 7 aving always called the piece that supports the bell a standard, I THE have often wondered how this terminology came about. The H dictionary, among its multitude of definitions for the word, "stan dard,'' does provide one which reads, "an upright support or supporting BELL part," and this may be the definition in use when we say "bell standard." Does everyone use the same terminology? A short check through STANDARD the literature reveals all of the following: bell standard, bell stud, bell stand, bell post, and bell support. Apparently there is a wide range of choice, and many times we are just lucky when two people use the same By terminology to describe the same thing. Too bad there has not been more Otto effort to adopt "standard" terminology. We are going to discuss the process of making this thing-a-ma-jig Benesh that the bell sits on so that a hammer, upon striking the bell, will produce a pleasing tintinnabulation. Figure 1 shows a typical eight-day, striking movement for a long case clock with the bell and its standard in position. Note that the hammer strikes the bell quite near its lip. The place that the hammer strikes makes quite a difference in both the tone and loudness. A good practice is to try striking the bell in different places and mark that spot which produces the clearest and fullest sound. A felt tip pen may be used to put a mark on the inside of the bell, enabling you to remove the bell and replace it so that the hammer will strike in the same spot each time. Removing the bell enables us to see the standard still attached to the outside of the back plate. See Figure 2. Note that in this case, the standard passes inside the back cock; this is not the only way and many are attached outside. Removing the back cock and the standard, we see the screw hole and the steady pin hole. See Figure 3. These are the points from which we begin measuring the length for a new standard. Each standard conforms to the particular configuration of the individual maker's pattern. While one maker.may make all of his movements
Figure 1 from the same pattern, other makers use different layouts, thereby re quiring different sizes and shapes. A few old standards are shown in Figure 4. Notice the different curves as well as the length of the tail pieces. The standard on the left is designed to be attached on the front plate. In the past, one was able to obtain rough forgings in various lengths and patterns as shown in Figure 5. Today, the roughs available are usually similar to the ones in Figure 6. They are just one size and come in pretty close to a finished state, requiring only that they be bent into shape. If you need one longer or shorter, you will have to make the change by adding or removing a section from the middle. If this does not match the screw and steady pin holes, you will have a lot of additional work to do. Usually you are left with the option of making a new one from scratch, and that is what we are going to do. You will need two pieces of material to get started: (1) a piece of wire, iron or copper, for taking measurements for the replacement standard, and (2) a piece of iron or steel, long and thick enough to make the replace ment. See Figure 7. ''l'l~Cti '-'tif1TTE~ ''©1980
by Otto Benesh, CMC (All rights reserved by the author)
48 Horological Times/February 1980 Take the piece of wire and, starting at the steady pin hole, bend it to the shape you need for the new piece. In Figure 8, a bent wire is shown next to an old standard to give you an idea of how it will look. While you are bending the wire, the bell may be placed on the end to see that the bends place the bell in the proper position for op timum tone, i.e., so that the hammer will strike the bell near the rim. Mark or cut the wire at the bell end. When you have finished bending the wire, it is a good idea to lay it on ~ a piece of paper and make a pencil out line of the shape so that when you J straighten the wire out to determine the length of material needed, you can rebend it later using the paper pattern. Once a piece of steel or iron Figure 2 Figure 4 of proper length has been selected, paste a piece of paper on the flat side. Make a mark where the steady pin will go and another for the screw hole, finishing off by marking the total length of the new standard. The total length is obtained by straightening out the bent wire and laying it on the material. When the total length and holes have been marked, the outline of the standard may be drawn freehand with a pencil as shown in Figure 9. This can also be done using layout blue and scribing the shape, but the paper method works as well and it is easier to erase and make Figure 5 changes. When the shape has been drawn to your satisfaction, the next step is to cut it out with a piercing saw. The next operation is one that is seldom used or discussed in clock making; that is the art of forging to shape. Most clockmakers today use a saw and-file method. It takes a great deal more time to form the necessary contours this way, particularly when they are as varied as those in Figure 10, a side view of an old standard. Notice for example, the step where the tail piece joins the tapered round section, the steady pin Figure 3 Figure 6 which is integral with the tail, and the square at the bell end. When I worked in London, one of the first jobs given to me was to make a spring shaped much like a hammer r· . - ,, .. - spring for a long-case clock. It was the ~~ - ,~~- : . ...:.-~ - - . repeater power spring for a pull-repeat . -· -. bracket clock. When I set about to cut it from a solid piece, I was immediately told to forge it and not to cut all the angles. Confessing to a lack of knowledge Figure 7 of this art, I was shown what to do and it was not long before I learned and enjoyed the work. It is a quick way of forming iron and steel. For most work done in clock repairs, a small furnace can be made using fire bricks; these are the type of bricks used in making fireplaces. Do not use common brick! A half-dozen bricks will allow you to set up a floor, Figure 8 Figure 9
February 1980/Horolof;ica/ Tim es 49 DON'T TURN AWAY ORIENT WATCHES FOR REPAIR. WE CAN STOP AND THINK SUPPLY MOST PARTS FOR ORIENT. ARE YOU HAPPY WITI-1 YOUR PRESENT SUPPLIER? HELP US TO PROCESS YOUR ORDER CORRECTLY THE FIRST TIME BY INCLUDING ALL OF THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION : IF YOU COULD FIND A NEW SUPPLIER THAT WOULD CATER A - MOVEMENT CALIBER NUMBER. TO YOU-THE WATCH AND WATCH MATERIAL B -ALL NUMBERS FROM BACK OF CASE. FINDINGS JEWELRY REPAIRMAN-EXCLU C - COLOR OF CASE. SIVELY, THAT WILL TRY TO STOCK ANYTHING YOU USE, KILB & COMPANY THAT WILL PROVIDE TOLL-FREE 623 N. SECOND ST. ORDER PHONES AND POSTAGE PAID ORDER CARDS, THAT WILL CRYSTALS P.O . DRAWER 8-A TRULY APPRECIATE YOUR BUSI MILWAUKEE. WI 53201 TOOLS NESS, THAT WILL GIVE YOU FAN EQUIPMENT TASTIC SERVICE AND SAVE YOU
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back, and sides when needed, and they are easily stored. The other requirement is heat, and the average propane torch is quite adequate. You do need a good sized anvil or stake to hammer upon. Figure 11 shows the step on the tail piece being forged. The piece is heated red hot, laid on the anvil, and hammered to shape. Reheating is done as necessary to keep the iron malleable. The round portion of the standard can Figure 10 / be rough-rounded using this method. It might be mentioned that if you want the steady pin to be integral with the tail piece, this is the time to forge it, bending it over the edge of the anvil. When the forging has been com pleted, the next operations are to file the taper on the rounded portions and dress up the tail piece and bell end. This is the time to cut the threads for the bell nut. A block of wood with grooves as shown in Figure 12 will assist in holding the work while filing and smoothing with emery paper. The screw hole is drilled, the steady pin put in if it is separate, and if the bell has its screw as a separate piece, this is the time to insert it. The finish of the new piece should match as nearly as possible the other pieces on the clock. It is not good practice to make a new piece highly polished when the rest of the work Figure 11
50 Horological Times/February 1980 I WATCH/CALCULATOR UP~o~~:~ QUANTITY TYPE SIZE WT. CUBE 6' 303BP 1.5 Volt 2.0 .16 12 357BP 1 5Volt lbs. cu. ft. 18 386BP 1,5 Volt 6 389BP 1 5 Volt 12 392BP 1.5 Volt 357BP 389BP 6 393BP 1.5 Volt ~~ '(Includes 6 ea. No. 303BP FREE) WATCH Contains $5.16 of Distributor Cost in FREE GOODS (6 ea. No. 303BP) Suggested Dealer Price: $62.46 Suggested Retail Price: $117.00 "'.._. .. "" W6P Watch Battery Assortment 393BP
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shows the patina of age. However, should you be required to match high polish, the final operation of polishing is to burnish the metal. This operation is shown in Figure 13 . The burnisher used here is oval in shape and highly polished. A bit of oil may be used, but this is n ' Figure 13 February 1980/Horological Times 51 - . -- - . . . . - . . , , ·. . . - I ------. - --=------~ ethyst, the traditional birthstone for February, is one of the most beloved of all gems. It comes only in a A violet hue ranging in tone from a very light lilac to AMETHYST: a very dark purple, the darker shades being the most expensive. It is the most valuable variety of the quartz familty. The prin cipal sources are Brazil, Uruguay, and Russia. The name Amethyst comes from two Greek words The Untold Story meaning "not" and "to intoxicate." It was and still is believed that a person wearing an amethyst or drinking from a cup carved from amethyst can drink all he wants and not become drunk. I can vouch for this belief having tried it myself. I didn't By Fred S. Burckhardt get drunk but I was thrown out of the bar for another reason. It seems they didn't like the amethyst earring I was wearing. There is an ancient Greek story concerning the naming of this stone. Bacchus, the Greek god of wine, had a thing going with the goddess Diana. One day she told him to bug off and Bacchus became very upset. He made a vow that the first person he met would be thrown to the tigers. Please notice that the Greeks were more civilized than the Romans. The Greeks fed people to the tigers but the Romans fed them to the lions. You can see the Greeks were a little more suave about Amethyst thought to herself, "What a rotten way to spend this. Anyway, as Bacchus was walking along the road, who the day." She finally prayed to the goddess Diana to save her should come tiptoeing through the tulips but the beautiful from this horrible fate worse than death. Now as any student maiden Amethyst. You might say that this wasn't her luckiest of Greek mythology knows, the Greek gods were more power day because she was the first person Bacchus laid eyes on. ful than the Greek goddesses-that is, except for Orpheus who He had her siezed and without benefit of a trial she was thrown sat around all day playing his lyre and Icarus who flew around to the tigers. Amethyst pleaded, saying her civil rights had been with a pair of wax wings. Diana couldn't overcome the powe·r violated and she would complain to the women's rights move of Bacchus. In order to save Amethyst, she turned her to pure, ment, but Bacchus just laughed and said they didn't have clear crystal. When Bacchus saw this he said, "sunofagun" enough pull to do anything. As the tigers started to close in, and repented over the dasterdly deed he had done. He went over to Amethyst and poured the juice of the grape over her petrified body, turning it to a lovely purple hue. Hence the name of this beautiful purple stone, Amethyst. This story of Amethyst is called a myth because she was a maiden. If she had been married it would have been called a mythus. It is also believed that by wearing an amethyst a woman could insure her husband's love; a soldier would be " .. . Amethyst thought to victorious; the wearer would be protected from contagious diseases; it would increase a person's intelligence and-most important of all-it would keep a watchmaker from flipping herself, 'What a rotten shock and click springs. This must be true because I've asked every watchmaker I know who wears an amethyst and not way to spend the day.' " one has ever flipped a shock spring or a click spring from any digital timepiece he has worked on. So if you know a watchmaker who doesn't flip springs, is a veteran of the second world war, has no con tagious diseases, gets smarter all the time, and loves his wife, you can bet there are some amethyst wearers in his family! On the other haIId, if he spends most of his time on all fours, is a deserter, covered with sores, not too swift, and his wife has run away, he's a real loser so throw him to the tigers or if you feel sorry for him, buy him an amethyst! ucm by FRED S. BURCKHARDT THE JEWELER'S• 8' WATCHM.4KER'S CONSTANT COMPANION Mo Bere~h inco A complete selection of parts for watchmakers. clockmakers, and jewelers. We Supply Fine Watch Batteries by We Salute maxell BATTERY PRODUCTS DIVISION These New Members! Maxell silver oxide batteries ore distributed exclusively to the jewelry trade. Maxell ABRAHAMSON, Floyd-De Smet, SD batteries ore factory installed by Seil"io BAILEY, Laura E.-Vallejo, CA Watch Co., Citizen, and other fine digital BECK, Thomas P.-Wooster, OH BENTON, Leigh C.-Newburgh, NY device manufacturers. These companies BRINKMANN, Kathleen-Urbana, IL demand the best - so should you. CLARK, John A.-Bangor, ME COOK, Harold E.-Stockton, CA Demand Maxell. COOPER, David-Cincinnati, OH COURTNEY, Larry J.-Garland, TX Send for our free Maxell interchange DeJAYNES, Paul-Mt. Pleasant, IA manual today! DEMERT, Kenneth D.-Charlotte, NC DISIENO, Tom P.-Gulf Breeze, FL D ' OLIVEI RA, Manuel-Mobile, AL DOYLE, Tammie Lisa-Milan, TN CRYSTALS! ERNSBERGER, Jerry Jr.-Longview, TX FLINCHBAUGH, George-Findlay, OH GALASSO, Vincenzo-New Haven, CT r ·.. -~ . GINTHER, Dean W.-Commerce, TX GIROUARD, Eli-Hillsboro, OH GOMES, Antonio-Mt. Vernon, NY ( GULLIVER, Allan D.-Riverside, CT HAINES, Richard F.-Ann Arbor, Ml HAMM, W. C. Jr.-Marietta, GA HOESE, Stephen H .-Monterey, CA HOLLOWAY, Bruce K .-Quincy, IL HOUSLEY, Virgil-Okmulgee, OK BY SIZE OR FIT TO YOUR KEY, Marion L.-Canton, GA MALMGREN, Ted L.-Daytona Beach, FL WATCH! MA RELLA, Domenic F.-Clifton Heights, PA MARESCO, Michael A.-Lafayette, LA We hove the latest mineral & mask MARTIN, Col. Leland M.-Apo, NY McGEARY, Stuart A.-Latham, NY L.C.D. & L.E.D. crystals. MILLER, Francis E.-Wichita, KS Genuine crystals for Bulova. Longines, MILLER, Ronald E.-Lisle, IL MONTGOMERY, George E.-Great Falls, MT Seiko, Citizen, Omega, Timex and others. MORRISON, Charley H .-Grand Prairie, TX Complete crystal line & cutting services. MULLEN, Paul B.-Quincy, IL MYERS, Michael-Okmulgee, OK ODUM, Lewis E.-Marion, IL All orders shipped some day as received OLSEN, M . J.-Medford, OR PANNELL, Earl H.-Southgate, Ml throughout U.SA. and Canada. PASKETT, Curtis J.-Woodridge, IL No orders too large or small. PATTEE, Richard L.-Tracy, CA PO LEY, John-Metairie, LA POWELL, B. J.-Lima, OH • ROSEN, Stanley-Philadelphia, PA Ill Co ROWE, Judy-Irving, TX 21700 Greenfield • Suite 353 SCHARDT, Richard T.-Aberdeen, MD Oak Park, Michigan 48237 TUDOR, William A .-Dallas TX WRIGHT, William-Okmulgee, OK Phone (313) 968·2930 ZANDER, Leroy-Spring Valley, MN February 1980/Horological Times 53 Make money on AWi Bench Courses/1980 Tl MEX repairs Programs Instructors A Basic Electricity & Use of Meters Jeager B Citizen LCD Alarm Carpenter C (a) Citizen LCD Multi-Alarm Broughton C (b) ESA/ETA Quartz Analog Broughton D (a) Seiko 4300 Ladies' Quartz Analog Smith D (b) Seiko LCD Chronograph/Alarm Smith D (c) Seiko 0903A Men's Quartz Analog Smith E Intro. to Solid State Watch Repair Nelson F (a) Bulova Quartz Analog (SMQ) Opp F (b) ESA LCD Chronograph Opp G ESA Digital/Analog Biederman REPLACEMENT MOVEMENTS You can replace a TIMEX movement almost as quickly as you can replace a watch band - and - YOU DOUBLE YOUR MONEY OR MORE! Start with one of these kits. Kit for Mechanical Watches 12 Movements covering over 900 models of mens and ladies watches. FEBRUARY, 1980 FL30-12TX1L ...... $54.85 2 C (a) Tucson, AZ Broughton Kit for Electric - Electronic Watches - 14 movements for mens and ladies watches, 2-6 Solid State Residence Course-Orlando, FL including 4 for Dynabeat models. 3 E Orlando, FL Nelson FL30-12TX2L ...... $131.10 3 C (a) Phoenix, AZ Broughton A decal "WE REPAIR TIMEX" will be supplied 10 B Little Rock, AR Carpenter with either or both of the kits above. 16 A Detriot, MI Jaeger 17 F (a) Boise, ID Opp WATER-RESISTANT CROWN 17 G Dallas, TX Biederman AND STEM ASSORTMENT 84 assorted crown and stems with a material MARCH. 1980 system identification chart included. 401 / 1 - TXlL ...... $38.50 2 F (a & b) Huntsville, AL Opp 9 E Norfolk, VA Nelson NON-WATER-RESISTANT CROWN 9 C (a) Fort Lauderdale, FL Broughton AND STEM ASSORTMENT 72 assorted crown and stems with a material 9 D (a & b) Los Angeles, CA Smith system identification chart included. 10 D (b) San Diego, CA Smith 401/ l - TX2L ...... $25.50 11 D (b) Albuquerque, NM Smith FANCY CRYSTAL ASSORTMENT 22 A Kerrville, TX Jaeger A total of 93 crystals. A material system 23 C (a) New Philadelphia, 0 H Broughton identification chart is included. 980-TXlL ...... per asst. $55.50 23 B New Orleans, LA Carpenter REGULAR CRYSTAL ASSORTMENT APRIL, 1980 A total of 42 crystals. A material system identification chart is included. 8 A Daytona Beach FL Jaeger 980-TX2L ...... per asst. $28.00 10 A Tampa, FL Jaeger 13 C (a & b) Newark, NJ Broughton 13 G Pittsburgh, PA Biederman ~ I \*~ 13 A ?, IA Jaeger S. rLaRoSe\tlnc. 18 D (b) ?,WI Smith Woddwide Distributon to Horologists 19 D (a) ?,WI Smith 20 B Knoxville, TN Carpenter '~ \I t£:;;;/ 20 E Cincinnati, 0 H Nelson 234 Commuce Place, Greensboro, N. C. 27420, U.S. A. 20 F Minneapolis, MN Opp 54 Horological Times/February 1980 ~ PHD MAY, 1980 ~HI-DOME 4 B Merrillville, IN Carpenter 4 C (a & b) Salt Lake City, UT Broughton CRYSTALS 4 F (a & b) Rochester, NY Opp with step for easy fitting 4 E Okmulgee, 0 K Nelson 17 D (a & b) Seattle, WA Smith 18 A Boston, MA Jaeger 18 G Findlay, OH Biederman , ORDER FROM YOUR WHOLESALER 18 D (a & b) Spokane, WA Smith PHO SIZES 8.4 mm to 43 JUNE, 1980 B Detriot, MI Carpenter IMPORTANT INFORMATION about F (a & b) Omaha, NE Opp STOCKING and FITTING G-S ROUND CRYSTALS G Ontario, Canada Beiderman 8 C (a & b) Baltimore, MD Broughton You can fit PHO Round Crystals up to 1h size 8 D (a & b) Kansas City, MO Smith larger than Bezel measurement. However, 8 E Denver, CO Nelson remember it is important to have % and ]{, 26 A Boise, ID Jaeger sizes of PHO Round on hand. This gives you 30 A San Francisco, CA Jaeger more sizes and less chance of not having the right size when needed. JULY, 1980 1 A San Francisco, CA Jaeger 2 A Sacramento, CA Jaeger The G-S Foot or Hand Inserting Machine is a very 6 A Los Angeles, CA Jaeger much needed piece of equipment to enable the 7 A Los Angeles, CA Jaeger watchmaker to fit very small ladies, large pocket, and Hunting Case watches. These sizes of round crystals 9 A Fresno, CA Jaeger cannot be fitted with the Hand Crystal Claw. SEPTEMBER, 1980 PHD-72 - Starter Set - 6 doz. PH D 18-3/4 to 43, 14 A Birmingham, AL Jaeger with index cards from size 10, in drawer. OCTOBER, 1980 PHD-72-H-1 - same as above, but with H-1 Hand Inserting Set with blocks and plugs. 19 G Richmond, VA Biederman PHD-168 - Complete Set - 14 doz. PHO, 8.4 mm to 43, r------1 in 4-drawer cabinet. I PHD-168-H-1 - same as above, but with H-1 Hand I FILL OUT THE INFORMATION FORM AND Inserting Set with blocks and plugs. I MAIL IT TODAY! I I I INSIST ON® CRYSTALS I I AM INTERESTED IN YOUR BENCH COURSE TO BE REFUSE SUBSTITUTES PRESENTED ON ______AT Fit G-S Crystals In Your Own Store For More Profit GS - THE ORIGINAL - STILL THE BEST ______PLEASE r------, i Germanow-Simon Machine Co., Inc. 1 SEND ME MORE INFORMATION . 1 420 St. Paul St. Rochester, N .Y. 14605 Please send me: D G-S Catalog D PHD-72 D PHD-168 NAME : ______D PHD-72-H-1 D PHD-168-H-1 D Information on complete G-S Crystal set system and liberal trade-in allowance with small monthly ADDRESS: ______payments - no interest or carrying charges . Name ______~ CITY, STATE, ZIP: ______Address ______Phone _____ City ______State __ Zip ___ Please return this form to: AWi Central, 3700 Hamson Ave., Cincinnati, OH 4521 i L Wholesaler's Name ______------___ _J February 1980/Horological Times SS QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS (continued from page 6) 10% more than the minimum weight needed to run the clock is a good rule of thumb. Sometimes sand alone will not bring the weights up to needed power delivery. In such cases, bits of scrap iron or lead can be mixed with the sand. Hope this helps. If not, write me and j will be happy to try again. Jim Tigner Figure 3 ould you please identify the alibre/model number as per the Qnclosed, photocopied movement and suggest where a stem might be avail able. On the movement side is imprinted: 1814399, Tiffany & Co., 17J. On the Figure 4 dial side: 1814399, Wittnauer Longine. Our regular supplier cannot identify the piece or furnish any information. H. Wasserman Louisville, KY Your movement is a Longines, calibre 11 /87, 11 /88. I doubt A whether parts are still available, but you might try the Longines-Wittnauer Watch Company at: 145 Huegenot St., New Rachele, NY 10810. If they do not Figure 6 have the needed part, try Sam Greenglass who might make one for you to order. His address is: 81-22 254 St., Floral Park, NY 11004. Henry B. Fried 1814399 Tiffany & Co. 1814399 17 Jewel Wittnauer Longine Figure 7 THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER this model has three parallel bi-metallic (continued from page 29) cross-arms with two round gold weights mounted on two vertical steel posts steel helical hairspring. It is of typical diametrically opposite each other near Earnshaw construction. the timing weights. As has been mentioned several Figure 10: Charles Frodsham, times previously, many of the chronom No. 4006, Circa 1858-1890. This is an eter makers experimented with various even rarer instrument than the preceding. types of balances and auxiliary com It, too, is of the two-day variety fitted pensating devices, hoping to find a means with an Earnshaw-type spring detent of eliminating the middle temperature escapement and has Frodsham's second error. Charles Frodsham was no exception known type of double balance, embracing and here are two examples of how he two bi-metallic balances. The upper attempted to overcome this problem balance is of conventional design (brass through use of a double balance. fused on steel) with Earnshaw-type Figure 9 : Charles Frodsham, weights. However, the lower balance No. 3311, Circa 1860. In this rare, is reversed in that the steel is on the two-day double balance chronometer, outside of the rim and without weights we find the conventional type of balance Figure 8. French, Royal Exchange, Lon don, No. 5722, Circa 1840 and is fitted with six compensating fitted with segmented weights. However, screws. 56 Horological Times/February 1980 Figure 9. Charles Frodsham, No. 3311, Circa 1860 Figure 10. Charles Frodsham, No. 4006, Circa 1858-1890 The date engraved on the top Roger Arnold's "U" balance which compensation was presumably intended plate, "A.D. 1852" refers to the date consists of a brass and steel compen to remove the middle temperature error of the invention of this second known sating bar and was patented in 1821. when the response of the lower balance, double balance. In the archives of the Chronometer No. 2352, rated in 1851, with the steel on the outside, would National Maritime Museum can be gave a very poor performance with a be opposite to that of the upper one. found records of three Charles Frodsham mean variation of over half a minute. Frodsham did not register a patent for chronometers (Nos. 2081, 2273, and This poor result no doubt inspired either of these two balances. 2352) each having a double balance Frodsham to invent his form of double with "Arnold's bar" as the lower part. balance in 1852. However, no record Next month we will examine It is assumed that this refers to John has been found. This continuous auxiliary more marine chronometers. 'UCill THE PICKLE BARREL get enough fast heat to flow the solder, always be shaped in proportion so that (Continued from page 43) increase the size of the flame even if you a tapered shank will retain its original have to use a larger tip on the torch. shape with no thick places or distortions. be finished by polishing to make it look If the solder still will not flow, the Usually this can be done in the filing (_l_S new as possible. stone(s) must be removed and reset stage so when the ring is polished, it will In sizing stone-set rings, the after sizing. look like it did when new. In sizing removal or addition of metal is accom There are many other consider engraved rings by cutting and adding plished in the same manner as in all ations in sizing stone-set rings. When or taking out metal, the pattern must metal bands using either the butt or sizing smaller, the circumference of the be kept in mind. When a sized-down "V" type joints. However, if enough heat circle is made smaller and rounding on ring is put together, the pattern must is required that it may reach the stone(s) the mandrel can elongate the settings match reasonably well, and a sized-up it should be determined if the stone(s) thus loosening the stone(s). This is ring requires that the added piece be will withstand heat. Stones such as dia especially true of some types of melee engraved so there will not be a bare monds, sapphires, or most synthetics in diamond engagement and wedding spot in the engraving. will stand heat so shielding will not rings. When making stone rings larger, I would like to emphasize the be necessary. These stones should not the circumference of the circle is made importance of evaluating a repair before be cooled quickly, however, and should larger, and rounding out on the mandrel starting. First, if the ring is dirty in places be placed on the asbestos pad and slow will have a tendency to tighten the stones where heat will be applied, make sure cooled until the ring can be handled with even to the point of shearing off beads it is properly cleaned. Second, make the bare fingers. Even a diamond, if or breaking less durable stones. Either sure the joints fit well together and are heated red hot and quenched, is likely of these can happen, but such accidents tight with no gap as solder will not flow to fracture thus reducing its value to are often avoided because the gold beads to both sides if there is a gap. Remember almost nothing. Any stone you are in or bezels are still pliable and will give. that solder will only flow over and through doubt about should be shielded. by However, the possibility of such damage fluxed portions, and thus solder can be putting the stone part of the ring in' wet should be considered in analyzing the controlled by the application of the flux sand, leaving the part to be soldered pro repair before starting. In making a heavy as well as the heat. Pickling stone-set truding. Alternate methods are wrapping boy's class ring with a synthetic stone rings should be done after the ring has in wet tissue or a commercial shielding three sizes larger, the stone shattered cooled and then in either a warm pickling compound and grasping with the heavy when rounding it on the mandrel. As this solution for a few minutes, a cold solution duty tweezers. If when heat is applied has only happened once in my experience, for a much longer period of time, or by the shielding starts to dry out, remove I have not changed my procedure in boiling for a few seconds in the pickle the heat and re-shield. If you cannot sizing class rings. Rings when sized should boiling pan with the torch. Never boil February 1980/Horological Times 57 opals, pearls, or any stone tha1 will modules were on hand for members to TECHNICALLY WATCHES suffer damage from boiling. practice on. (Continued from page 16) Due to the increased cost of The February meeting will fea gold, more and more silver rings are ture a speaker from the CPA Society who showing up for sizing and repair. Al will provide a very informative talk though most jewelers refuse this work, it and will then answer questions from over the corner of the grinding stone is highly profitable as the same charges members on any subject in his field as in Figure 6. A crystal that rocks in can be made and the materials cost Jess. that affects us as watchmakers and the bezel is not likely to stay in place The procedures set forth in this article business people. regardless of how well it is cemented apply to silver rings the same as gold, In the very near future, members in. but silver being a greater conductor of will be treated to either a bench course When the crystal fits the bezel heat requires more heat to make solder seminar or a slide/film presentation to be correctly, then it is cemented in. To do flow. With this in mind, a little experimen given by Jacques Reymond, Technical this, the cement is applied sparingly tation and practice will have you doing Director for The Watchmakers of Swit around the bezel groove as in Figure 9; these repairs as an added source of income. zerland Information Center. then the crystal is inserted and more The next article will deal with The full-day bench course sem cement is applied around the edge of the replacing prongs, beads, heads, bezels, inar on December 2, 1979, was an over crystal as in Figure 10. The bezel is sides, and settings. liCIB whelming success. It was fully attended left undisturbed for a few minutes to and members learned a great deal from it let the cement set. Before the crystal AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN thanks to the excellent instruction is cemented in, it is a good idea to remove (Continued from page 21) given by Gene Kelton, former first the label and clean the crystal, keeping vice-president of AWi, a most able in in mind which way the crystal is to go structor. into the bezel. The reason for being so This will be presented by the Citizen Thanks go to Citizen Watch particular on this point is that sometimes Watch Company. The seminar on April Company which made the course avail the bezel isn't completely square or true 13, 1980, will be held at the Holiday able to members. Thanks also to Bill and the crystal is ground so that it fits Inn in Swickley, PA. There will be room Alpern and Richard Dubrow for arranging the bezel in one particular way. If it is for 50 watchmakers. the location, and Mr. Miyoshi Nishibuchi inserted any other way, it could get The January 21 meeting of the for expediting the course. Mr. Gene chipped or broken. Delaware Valley Watchmakers Guild Kelton was also ably asssisted by Mr. included a demonstration of soldering Ray Hyashi. This was one course that Fancy plastic crystals can be techniques given by Mike Jenner and was well thought-out. Even the per ground and fitted in the same manner several other members. Members brought fectly produced film that preceeded as fancy glass crystals, or they can be their own soldering irons for this special the course was excellent and informative. filed down to fit and then smoothed event. Some defective LED and LCD liCIB off and polished with fine emery sticks. ~w~~~ ~~~~(!)w~Gl from CAS-KER THE MOST Tum M. Hyltin CONVINCING Fom1erly of Texas Instruments DIAMOND SUBSTITUTE YET CREATED! 2~4 pp, illus, G .\ 9, S!9 95 I It's about time someone wrote a complete, non Cubic Zirconia Diamond technical guide to help you keep up with the digital Hardness 8 .5 10 watch revolution. Here, in. this one book, you"]] find all Refractive index 2 .2 2 .41 7 vou need to know about how they work, how thev"re Dispersion 0 .0 6 0 0 .0 4 4 Specific gravity 5 .4 3 .5 2 designed, and how to repair them. You really can't afford Chemistry Zr02 Y 2 03 c to be without this handbook, written by one of the original developers of electronic watches. King of ------Horological Times------Zirconia PO Box non. Cincinnati. Ohio 452n CAS-KER CO. 'ii cs~ please rush me "The Digital Electronic Watch." 1 am enclosing $21.45 (cost $19.95 plus $1.50 for postage) U.S. funds only. Please allow approximately 4 weeks for delivery. Price subject to change . Drawer A Cincinnati Phone .\Jame ------ Address ------P.O. Box 2347 Ohio 45201 [513] 241-7074 City------Stale ____ ZIP ______D<'Pt. BK-! 58 Horological Times/February 1980 The final polish can be obtained with flat cases of the high-grade variety. rouge on a leather hand buff. View H shows a combination of two No article on watch crystals crystal styles and is called the Mi-Chevee. would be complete without something The edge of the crystal is shaped like about round glass crystals, especially a Mi-Concave and the top is shaped like pocket watch crystals. Figure 11 shows the Lentille Chevee. Thus the name some of the most important styles of Mi-Chevee. View I illustrates the Geneva pocket watch crystals. View A shows crystal that is used on hunting cases. the regular, flat-top crystal of standard This crystal comes in heights 4, 5, 6, 7, thickness. View B shows an extra-thick, and 8 for different case thicknesses. flat top crystal. This style was used on Height 4 is the highest and height 8 is thick, nickel-silver American open face the lowest. Heights 7 and 8 are the most watch cases before and after 19.00. Figure 9 frequently used. When selecting one of View C illustrates the standard thickness these crystals, one must be selected Mi-Concave crystal and View D shows that is high enough to clear the hands, the extra-thick Mi-Concave. This crystal but also low enough so that the case was also used on thick nickel-silver cover will close without touching the American pocket watch cases around crystal. View J shows the Bulls Eye 1900. View E shows the Mi-Empire crystal with cut top. The very center Chevee crystal. This style crystal is used of the top of this crystal is ground flat in medium-thick open face cases of all to form a round flat place in the center qualities and colors. This is a very popular of the crystal. This crystal is used in thick crystal. View F illustrates the Lentille watches and sometimes on watches crystal. This crystal is used on thin, curved with pair cases. watch cases. View G shows the Lentille Chevee crystal. This one is used on thin, Figure 10 When selecting a crystal for a pocket watch, it must have a height Figure 11 that will give clearance for the hands, and for best appearance, should have a shape that will look like the contour A ~~'\'\'\""3 \ of the case. Round pocket watch crystals are gauged in French lignes. In using the ligne system, the ligne has been divided into 16 parts, making each part 1/16 B ~ \ ligne. Therefore, the crystal measurements are given in whole lignes plus some mul tiple of 16th of a ligne. ~"'"'''""§,"-.\\>\\l c \ When measuring the bezel for --- a new crystal, if an accurate ligne gauge is not available, then a millimeter Vernier caliper can be used and this converted D ---- \ to lignes. To do this, take the measure ~ ment in millimeters and multiply this by .4433. This will equal the lignes and fractions of a ligne. Now multiply the ,~~"""'~'*"~~, ~ fraction by 16 and this will equal the E \ l 6ths of a ligne over the whole lignes. Sometimes the label on the crystal also indicates the size of the crystal in mil limeters which makes the conversion to lignes unnecessary. F To install a round glass crystal, one edge of the crystal is placed into the bezel groove. While it is held in place by the thumb, the bezel is stretched with the fingers of both hands, and the crystal G ~ ~ is snapped into the bezel with the thumb of the other hand. ~ If the proper size crystal cannot H ~, \ be obtained, then one slightly larger can be ground down to size and shaped on the crystal grinding wheel. When /' •s ~ -...... _ grinding a round crystal down to size, ' it is a good idea to mark the crystal at a spot near the edge with a grease pencil to indicate a starting point. This reference point is used to indicate when the crystal has been ground completely J ~-----~ around and helps to keep the crystal ~ perfectly round. 'iiCill February 1980/Horological Times 59 News 1n the Trade Jean Pierre Savary To Address WMJDA Annual Meeting Watchmakers of Switzerland In formation Center, Inc. will key note the Watch Material and Jewelry Distributors Association (WMJDA) Annual Meeting, April 9-13, 1980 at The Breakers, Palm Beach, FL. Swiss born, Mr. Savary is thoroughly familiar with every phase of watchmaking production and precision skills. He completed his formal technical education at St. lmier, a leading watch making college in Switzerland and was employed by a watch manufacturing firm before he came to the United States in Jean Pierre Savary Charles Nelson Reilly and Dinah Shore 1947. Since then he has spent two years in the service depart as much care and thought as ment of one of the largest watch of the Florida Atlantic Univer posed, with the necessary micro· a fashion wardrobe. That was importers in New York City sity College of Business and fiche reader, first year cost will the theme on the Dinah! show and then joined the Information Public Administration, Associates be $350. After the first year, this January 16th when Aurea Center in charge of technical Tables, and the Man of the Year updating costs are estimated at Jewelry Creations was featured services. He has served as presi luncheon. Registration and pro $75 per year. on a travel wardrobe fashion dent of that organization since gram materials are available from There are good things segment. 0 pening the show, Dinah 1973 and has kept in continuous the WMJDA office, 435 North to be said about a microfiche and Charles Nelson Reilly showed contact with American watch Michigan Avenue, Suite 1717, system, Mr. Endman notes, ad· the audience how to choose makers, jewelers, and the jewelry Chicago, IL 60611. vising watchmakers, "Don't panic. and pack a wardrobe of 14K industry as a whole. Order in the manner to which gold jewelry which can take a "The Swiss watch in WATCH MATERIAL you are accustomed. Not every· business woman from morning dustry is very much alive," says INFORMATION ... one can afford a Rolls Royce, through evening in elegant style. Mr. Savary, and his remarks MICROFICHE? but it's nice to own one." at the WMJDA convention April CATALOGS? Marshall-Swartchild will 9 will present facts to confirm B. Jadow & Company has an order the sophisticated Bestfit Microfiche System for those who this statement. He feels that nounced plans for a new Bestfit EXHIBIT OF CLOCKS wish it. However, in answer to the Swiss watch industry has Watch Material Microfiche Infor AND WATCHES MADE IN questions about the present Mar· regained complete leadership in mation System. Until now, Bestfit NEW YORK STATE shall, Swartchild, Bestfit, and new technology as far as elec catalogs have served watchmakers, The National Association of Watch Newall Systems, Endman promises tronic watches are concerned. but the Jadow firm says it no and Clock Collectors Museum in that update supplements will Accordjng to Mr. Savary, the longer can produce catalogs eco Columbia, Lancaster County, PA, continue for the Handy Manual next decade will see an ever nomically. is currently presenting an ex Catalog and Marshall Series Sys increasing sale of quartz analog Since the announce hibition entitled "Empire State tems. "We believe that Marshall watches, and he predicts that ment, watch makers have been Horology, 1830-1930,'' which Swartchild is the onl_y company the United States market for querying Edward Endman, presi may be seen through March 31, with facilities to supply refills watches is increasing at a rate dent of Marshall-Swartchild, as 1980. for all brand systems," he declared. of about 5% per annum and will to whether or not they should Although the clock and most probably be increasing at plan to buy the microfiche watchmaking of New York State a greater rate in the next decade. system. Reportedly, it will become tends to be overshadowed by the Other features of the available in June, though delivery AUREA JEWELRY mass production which took place WMJDA convention include an has been delayed in the past, CREATIONS DAZZLES in Connecticut, the clockmakers, in-depth money management sem and the date is not guaranteed. DINAH! and to a lesser extent the watch· inar conducted by Dr. Darab Price is a matter of Packing gold jewelry for a busi· makers, of the Empire State B. Unwalla and Gary A. Luing considerable concern. As pro- ness trip should be done with occupy an important place in the 60 Horological Times/February 1980 history of American horology. on quartz repair. Courses are BOREL MAKES FINDINGS watchmakers' and jewelers' supply Like their neighbors to the east, planned for next summer in the EASIER TO FIND house, celebrated its 110th anni they were highly inventive in United States. Jules Borel and Comapny has versary recently with the grand both movement and case design. Albert Froidevaux et announced the availability of a opening of a new office at 1212 This display of some Fils also has offices in Hong 16-page catalog of 14K-gold ring Main Street, Houston, TX 77001. three-dozen clocks and watches Kong and Mexico City. Planning findings including heads, shanks, Visitors were treated to includes .some of the most un to penetrate the world market and tops with costs reflecting hors d'oeuvres and drinks, and usually cased timekeepers pro to a greater degree, the four current gold market prices. viewed the large and well-balanced duced in the United States. offices will be offering more "Jewelers will be able stocks of name-brand jewelry and Among them are Empire-period opportunity for their customers to provide accurate estimates for jewelry supplies. mirror clocks made in Auburn, to enjoy the products available custom mounting and they'll be Adding to enjoyment Decatur, and East Bloomfield; through this worldwide linkup . able to up-date replacement values of the affair, Harold Neill, owner shelf clocks from Albion and The U.S. office has already of their ring findings in stock," ac of Houston Technical College, Marcellus; "globe clocks" from begun exporting products made cording to Roger Borel, spokes drew names of visitors for valuable Canajoharie and Saratoga Springs; in North America. man for the company. "All prizes contributed by generous advertising clocks produced in In charge of the North findings listed in this catalog suppliers to Marshall-Swartchild. Plattsburg and Sidney; double dial American operation is Mr. Herman are available from Borel." Seventeen of the winners were calendar clocks from Ithaca; bat G. Kirkpatrick. Mr. Kirkpatrick "Copies may be ob from Houston: Alfred Amyuer, tery powered timepieces from is located at 9801 Cedar Drive tained by jewelers submitting Luis Arrara, Della Auspe, H.J. Buffalo and Ithaca; tower clocks in Overland Park, Kansas 66207, requests for the 14K-Gold Ring Gray, Jerry Green, Willie Janik, from Cazenovia and New York a suburb of Kansas City. Findings Catalog on their company Ed Keith, Carol Kohen, Albert City; and watches made in Albany Albert Froidevaux-USA letterhead," Borel concluded. Krause, Stanley Lilja, Albert and New York City. will participate in the Watch Mail requests to: Roger Medina, John Neises, Henry Orta, Museum hours are Mon Material & Jewelry Distributors Borel, Jules Borel and Company, John M. Osborne, E. Rossi, day through Friday from 9 a.m. Association show in Florida this 1110 Grand Ave., Kansas City, A.C. Vento, and Austin Woodley. until 4 p.m. Closed Sundays. April, as well as the Basel Fair MO 64106. Other winners came For further information call (717) in Switzerland later that month. from more distant parts of 684-8261. Texas: From Beaumont, Catherine Virgilio;from Galveston, N. Goree, lames Hammonds and Arnulfo MARSHALL-SWARTCHI LD Solina; from Lufkin, Charles FROIDEVAUX ENTERS GRAND OPENING Lenderman; from Nacogdoches, THE UNITED STATES SWIGART CO. DONATES IN HOUSTON Durward Bridwell; from Port Albert Froidevaux et Fils, widely DEAD WATCH CELLS Marshall-Swartchild Company, be Arthur, Hazel Turnbull; and from known throughout the watch TO BENEFIT lieved to be the world's largest Rosenberg, Mrs. Karl Pilsker. making and jewelry industry, AWi-ELM TRUST recently announced the opening The E. & J. Swigart Company of their office in the U.S. The of Cincinnati, Ohio has for many firm, whose home office is in years been contributing dead La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland watch cells to the American is a global distributor of watch Watchmakers Institute to benefit materials and tools, jewelers tools the ELM Trust. The yearly and findings, clock parts and amount of cells has been in tools, as well as electronic watch excess of 600 pounds and are components, supplies, and equip collected by Swigart salesmen ment. when they make their calls on Selling to material and customers in their various sales Houston office staff, left to right: Al Some of the customers present supply houses, the new branch areas. The batteries find their Williams, manager; Vertis Everett, during Marshall-Swartchild's grand (to be called officially Albert way back to the Swigart office Ricco Matthe\/\os, Carmen Kurtz, opening in Houston. co-manager; Joyce Redeker, Harry Froidevaux-USA) is placing major in Cincinnati, where they are Redeker emphasis upon the ETIC pro stored before being presented to gram which is oriented to the AWi. Pictured in the AWi Museum repair of solid state watches. are Ed Soergel, vice-president ETIC, which is an acronym for of the E. & J. Swigart Company, Electronic Time Company, is a and Michael Danner, Administra wholly owned subsidiary of the tive Director of AWi, during Swiss parent company. Having a recent unloading of dead watch recently published a complete batteries at AWi Central. Many catalog for tools and equipment, thanks to the E. & J. Swigart the ETIC organization is presently Company, and their employees, Al Williams watches the prize giving courses throughout Europe salesmen, and customers! drawing technique of Harold Neill, Ed Soergel and Mike Danner owner of Houston Technical College. February J.980/Horological Times 61 NEWS IN THE TRADE (Continued) WOSIC To Offer Free Workshops On Quartz Movements The Watchmakers of Switzerland technology at various Swiss plants. parts manufacturing, and watch Monica, CA. They have proven Information Center will offer a "We want to make this sales companies. very popular with jewelers because series of free workshops to program as flexible as possible," Watchmakers who want the evening class hours don 't help watchmakers become more Reymond states. "Therefore, we to register for the workshops conflict with normal store hours. expert in quartz analog and will have no fixed schedule. We can call WOSIC at (212) 757- The evening Diamond LCD movements, J.P. Savary, can accommodate up to eight 7030 and ask for Mrs. Bodman. Grading classes meet Monday president, announced. people at one time, but we will through Friday for two weeks. The workshops, to be hold sessions as people request GIA OFFERS THREE The first Diamond Grading Class, held at WOSIC's New York them." ADDITIONAL CLASSES Number 100-01-300, is scheduled offices, 608 Fifth Avenue, be At the end of the GIA is offering three additional July 21 through August 1, 1980. ginning in January, will offer workshop, each watchmaker will resident classes to be held in A second Diamond Grading Class, watchmakers from around the be awarded a certificate of New York City during 1980. Number 100-01-460, will be held country practical training in diag completion specifying the move A one-week class in Jewelry November 10-21 , 1980. nosing, repairing, and testing the ments on which he has worked. Design, Class Number 100-03- Because of the popular Ebauches quartz movements. In WOSIC, established in 240, will be held June 9-13. ity of these classes and the addition , the workshops will help 1948, has been running technical This is the first time this class limited number of students that watchmakers better understand seminars for the trade through has been offered in New York can be accommodated, it is how the new quartz movements out the country for many years. City in several years. suggested that class reservations work. The quartz workshops, sponsored Two additional classes be made as soon as possible. "With the everiJrowing by Ebauches S.A. which provides in Diamond Grading will be Reservations are on a first come, popularity and sophistication of movements for about 2/3 of held in addition to those already first served basis. quartz watches, we felt that it all Swiss watches, is the newest scheduled. These classes will be For information on en was important for watchmakers activity in this program. Ebauches held in the evening from 6 p.m. rollment, please contact GIA, to be as familiar as possible is a member of the ASUAG until 10 p.m. The evening classes Santa Monica office, (213) 829- with these movements so they group, a large Swiss holding were introduced during 1979 2991 or write GIA, P.O. Box can continue to provide the company composed of watch and at the GIA campus in Santa 2110, Santa Monica, CA 90406. best in after-sales service of Swiss watches," Savary said. In a specially outfitted work area, watchmakers will be able to train on any Ebauches movement they specify. The latest and most sophisticated Swiss testing equipment available in the United States, as well as an array of basic tools, will be on hand for their use. Slides and technical literature will sup plement the work on the move ments. The workshops will be run by Jacques M. Reymond, WOSIC education and training director. Mr. Reymond, an ac complished watchmaker for over 15 years, trained at the Watch making College of Le Sentier, one of Switzerland's most pres· tigious watchmaking schools. He joined WOSIC after working for The latest and most sophisticated Swiss Free workshops w ill be held at Watchmakers of test ing equipment available in the U.S. a large manufacturing firm and Swit zerland Information Cente r, 608 Fifth Ave., w ill be on hand for the use of the a leading watch importer. He New York. They will be run by Jacques Raymond, watchma kers during the training sessions WOSIC education and training director. has also recently had intensive atWOSIC. training in the latest watch 62 Horological Times/February 1980 CAS-KER HAS NEW SEIKO setting for the professional jew QUARTZ CASING eler, the forty-nine page book is PARTS LIST lavishly illustrated and concisely This is the long-awaited casing written. parts list for Seiko Quartz Watches. "Diamond setting is one For analog models it lists part of the most conscientiously a numbers for crowns, crystals, vioded topics in how-to books," pushbuttons, gaskets, bezels, case said Earl Weaver, president of rings, and battery hatch gaskets. Swest, "and that is why we have For digitals, it lists LC panels, written th is book." crystals, pushbuttons, gaskets, and "The Techniques of Dia more. This new book is indis mond and Stone Setting" covers: pensable for anyone who fits Preparation of Tools; Flat top Seiko crystals or crowns. This (Plate) settings including Bright 1979 Catalog has just been cutting; Prong Settings; Bezel released and contains models that Settings; and a chapter on Po will be introduced in 1980. It is lishing and Plating. available from CAS-KE R Co., For more information P.O. Box 2347, Drawer A, Cin contact Swest, Inc., 10803 Com cinnati, OH 45201. The cost is posite Drive, Dallas, TX 75220; $6.50 or free with an order 431 Isom Road, San Antonio, of $50.00 or more of Seiko TX 78216 ; 1725 Victory Boule material. vard, Glendale, CA 91201.. IB:I:E OMEGA IS MOVING UP Ralph H. Gautier (left), managing director of the Societe Suisse SWEST PUBLISHES Pour L'lndustrie Horlogere (SSIH); Lt. Gen Thomas P. Stafford, DIAMOND SETTING chairman of the board of Omega Watch Company, and Robert BOOK N. Wiiken, managing director of SSIH/U.S. and president of Swest, Inc. announces publication Omega Watch Company, conducted Omega's sales convention of a new book, "The Techniques in January. The meeting in Puerto Rico was the fi rst since the of Diamond and Stone Setting," formation of Omega Watch Company, which now is the ex for the jeweler. Devoted exclu clusive distributor in the U.S. The slogan of the three-day sively to the practice of stone meeting was "Omega Is Moving Up." IB:I:E CHIME AND STRIKE Check the gathering piece for clock, you must adjust the snail position (Continued from page 39) correct setting. As the clock finishes to assure that the rack tail falls cleanly striking the hour, the three pins on the onto the snail segment corresponding gathering piece must be clear of the rack to each hour. The most critical hours you can watch the hammers instead. as shown in Figure 2. If one of the pins are 12 and 1 o'clock. If the snail is in First quarter chimes on the New Haven remains engaged in the rack, the rack the wrong place, the rack tail will hit movement will be the four hammers cannot be free to move down toward the it between the 12 and 1 segments, and rising and falling in order from front snail at the next hour. To remedy the the strike count will be incorrect. If the to rear. If the first quarter chime plays problem, carefully turn the gathering snail must be moved, first remove the the right notes, the other quarters will piece to a new position on the elongated large washer over the minute wheel also be correct. If the notes are wrong, pivot which carried it. Don't bend or break ( 15). Then pull the snail and hour wheel or if you have a hammer left hanging the pivot. When the pins are not touching assembly out of mesh with the pinion. in the raised position at the end of each a rack tooth at the end of the strike Re-engage the gears at what seems to sequence, adjustment is simple. Loosen cycle, the adjustment is correct. be the correct point, and carefully check the hammer assembly first. Then move Always look at the strike hammer the operation again at 12 and 1 o'clock. the chime drum gear away from the to make sure it is not left hanging in the chime drive gear. Using a trial and error raised position at the end of the strike. Set up the New Haven move method, re-engage the gears at the point If it is left "on the rise" you will have to ment for run-testing after all the repairs where the chime notes are correct. go back and adjust the gathering piece and adjustments are done. You may Turn your attention to the strike further. You will note from Figure 2 want to test the movement on the bench train next. Make sure that on the strike that the three pins on the gathering for a few days if you think it still has warning the rack lever lifts the strike piece form a triangular pattern. Because some problems. Otherwise, install it in lock piece high enough to release the of this, there are a total of three ways the case right away. Place the clock rack. If it does not, reset the strike to set the gathering piece and still keep on a level shelf, set the beat, and adjust lift lever on the back of the movement the pins clear of the rack at the end of the hammers. Wind the mainsprings so that it rests on the strike warning the strike cycle. Try the other two fully. As the clock runs, you should lever. This will increase the lift. The point positions, and one of them should result listen once in a while for chime or strike of the adjustment is to assure release in the strike hammer finishing in the errors. If there is a defect, it will come up of the rack each hour. The rack tail downward attitude. repeatedly, and you will hear it. Make falls upon one of the twelve snail positions sure the clock works properly through to determine the number of hammer A final strike adjustment involves the complete running cycle of eight blows to be struck. the rack and snail. As with any chime days. 'UI'Jil February 1980/Horological Times 63 New Products NEW ULTRAMATIC FROM ZENITH Edward A. Pedzy, President of the base. Jewelers making dia Zenith Mfg. and Chemical Cor mond presentations with the poration, announced the recent Gemolite are able to effortlessly development of the new Ultra turn the "set-up" to the customer matic, a fully automatic ultra without losing the continuity of sonic cleaning system for cleaning the presentation. clocks, instruments, jewelry, la The unique stoneholder boratory equipment, optical and holds all sizes of loose or mounted dental work, and much more. The stones in any position. Adjustable 32x16x38 in. Ultramatic is equip eye-spacing permits smooth and ped with Zenith's newest devel easy tailoring to fit each cus opment in the Ultrasonic field, a tomer. transitorized power module of Complete information a high intensity and industrial about the Deluxe "A" Mark V strength which out powers and Gemolite is available by writing outperforms conventional tube Gem Instruments Corporation, type ultrasonic systems, known to P.O. Box 2147, Santa Monica, CA be the stongest and most efficient 90406. cleaning systems in the past. The automatic Ultra three activated ultrasonic tanks, infinite number of magnifications. matic cleaner offers one cleaning, and one dryer. The introduction of the two rinsing, and one drying cycle. Th is entire system is new Deluxe "A" Mark V Gemolite SWEST OFFERS In sequences, the solutions are manufactured by Zenith Mfg. & gives jewelers a wider selection RUBBER MOLD pumped from storage containers Chemical Corporation which has in professional binocular micro CUTTING TOOLS into the upper working tank, served the watch and jewelry scopes, according to Ken Moore, Swest, Inc. announced it can now which is ultrasonically activated trade for more than forty years. vice-president of Gem Instruments supply two types of rubber mold as soon as fluid enters. The tank Distribution is through Corporation. holders to aid in the rubber mold capacity ranges from two to forty wholesalers or Zenith directly. The entire series of Mark cutting process. quarts. After completion of the V Gemolites has been designed to The Swest Rubber Mold single cleaning cycle, the solution give superior performance and to Holder is a device which clamps drops back into the stainless steel add a highly sophiscated pro both sides of the mold during the storage containers where dirt NEW GEMOLITE fessional approach in merchan cutting process, freeing both settles in the bottom. Therefore, The new Deluxe "A" Mark V dising diamonds. Using these hands in order to relieve fatigue the contaminate cannot be re Gemolite is now available from instruments the jeweler can easily and help prevent cut fingers. cycled, providing a longer usage Gem Instruments Corporation, demonstrate gem value to cus The Mold -Mate is a of the cleaning and rinsing fluids. a wholly owned subsidiary of tomers. simpler device which clamps one All phases of the cleaning stages GIA. The new binocular micro The exclusive illumi side of the mold and comes are shown by light signals on the scope was developed expressly nation incorporated in the Mark with a well-illustrated instruction front panel. for jewelers to help sell, grade, V Gemolite base was developed booklet on the rubber mold Cycle selector and time and identify diamonds and other by GIA through years of experi cutting procedure. extension override are standard. gems. It features the renowned mentation and the examination of A free brochure de Drying is accomplished American Optical Company's op many thousands of diamonds and scribing both along with prices is by hot air entering the working tical system which combines high colored stones in GIA Gem Trade available from : Swest, Inc., 10803 container. Excess cooled-off air resolution with a wide total Laboratories. The softly diffused, Composite Drive, Dallas, TX escapes through a duct hose and magnification range of lOX to yet directional light is controlled 75220; 431 Isom Road, San can be led out of the cleaning 45X. by a diaphragm which baffles Antonio, TX 78216; 1725 Vic area, thus eliminating fume eva The StereoStar/Zoom unused light, preventing annoying tory Boulevard, Glendale, CA poration. feature of the Deluxe "A" pro fog and flare in the lenses. Dark 91201. This new system offers vides a continuous flow of mag field illumination or transmitted a new experience and approach in nification with in the range, with light is available simply by turning automatic ultrasonic cleaning. The out the image blackout associated the control lever. NEW MARKER price for a popular 212 gallon size with microscopes not having The Deluxe "A" Mark FROM BOREL GROUP system is $1,995.00. The Zenith zoom capabilities. The result is V Gemolite features a built-in Now you can mark on your Ultramatic replaces one generator, a crisp, razor-sharp image at an turntable as an integral design of plastic or metal ring tags without 64 Horological Times/February 1980 using a scribe of an old-fashioned NEW BATTERY SIX-PACK: a number of exclusive design ink pen. Borel Group is offering HEART OF ADVANCED features which are cl'aimed to a fine-point, felt-tip pen that BATTERY STOCKING provide the following benefits: speeds up price or stock number SYSTEM marking of ring tags. The ink A new battery stocking system FLEXIBILITY: Because there are is permanent, will not wash or rub has been announced by Borel no individual compartments, it off. Price comparable to ordinary which it claims will make pre permits stocking of many or a markers. For additional infor sent stocking methods obsolete. few of any desired battery type. mation contact: Borel Group, Called simply, "The Sys And there is always a place for 1110 Grand Ave., Kansas City, tem," the new stocking method new numbers as they appear on Mo 64106. is so compact that the jeweler the market. can store hundreds of batteries INVENTORY CONTROL: The in the stocking tray which is small inherent compactness of the unit, "The System" is offered NEW FF'OM PRO-CRAFT enough to fit in his bench drawer. full visibility of contents, and free of extra charge with the The new, deluxe Pro-Craft jewelry Because the tray is attractively "filing-system" approach all com purchase of 120 Eveready bat polishing motor/dust collector lined with velvet, it is equally bine to make inventory control teries (20 six-packs) assorted as features a filter access door in the at home in the display area. effortless. It also assures first desired. Refills, packaged in six top for easy, convenient removal The heart of the system in, first-out usage of battery packs, are available from any and replacement of the fiberglass is a new, compact Six-Pack stock. Borel Group office. Borel prices filter. As shown, the door is created by Borel. Measuring about are based on quantity price secured by latches, and has 1.6 in. by 1.1 in., the friction CONVENIENCE: The compact breaks, geared to the smallest sleeve type package stores six size permits placing entire stock no screws to be removed. The or largest user. new unit is Underwriters' Labora batteries which can be removed at the point of usage-on the tory listed, and features dual (or replaced!) effortlessly and bench or in the display area. For more information, or exhaust ports and two fan blowers. without the usual tearing open When multiple work-centers exist, to place orders, the jeweler simply Even the longest ring buffs can be and discarding of the package each can have its own stocking needs to dial Borel's national used, and the taper spindles take remains. tray with refills coming from toll-free order desk: 1-800-821- buffs up to 6 in. diameter. "The System" incorporates central storage. 5686. (Missouri: 1-800-892-5818) Not For Men Only! watches that are priced at about $1,000. This collection incor Concord Delirium Ill, the world's Delirium 1ll's will be produced porates technology that was avail thinnest watch for women in in Switzerland for sale in the able only in $2,000 watches in troduced last month in New United States in 1980. The time the past." York, is the latest in a year-long piece, with a specially designed "With gold at $600 series of advances in watch tech satin or leather strap that fits per ounce, Nine-Line watches are nology from Switzerland. the thinness of the watch, is a real bargain," Grinberg pointed NEWMIDO "OCEAN STAR" Just one year after the priced at $4,900. With an 18K out. Mido-the King of Water-Resistant Swiss reasserted their watch gold band, prices start at $7,900. Delirium 111 features Watches- introduces a new Ocean making leadership by breaking Fifteen Delirium Ill's were made include accuracy to within 10 through the 2 mm barrier, they available at Tiffany and Company Star of its 1980 collection, model seconds per month and a battery achieved a further 15% reduction in New York on January 14. 4505. designed to power the watch for in thinness to 1.69 mm, which is During its first year, Available with a self 15 months. The unusual Delirium almost as thin as a penny. In about 2,500 of the 1.98 mm-thin winding or quartz movement, it name, which has generated a great addition, the women's Delirium Concord Delirium l's were sold has either a steel case with yellow deal of discussion, came from the is smaller than the original ver far above original predictions bezel and a two-tone metal band, whirlwind program that the Swiss according to Gedalio Grinberg, white or gold dial or a yellow case sion by 35%. launched to create the watch president of North American with brown or gold dial. Mido's Major innovations in in record time. 'ilCill watches sell from $125.00 microtechnology were required to Watch Corporation, distributor of reduce the sizes of the mini Concord watches. The matching Ask for our new color aturized components-such as the Deliriums for men and women catalog by writing to Mido/Borel quartz crystal, the battery and will be available in 1980, he said. Distribution Center, 1008 Walnut motor-which were already the Grinberg noted that Street, Kansas City, MO 64106. world's smallest of their kind. these thinner watches not only The compact, soft-styled time are an indicator of technological piece with its rounded corners superiority, but that thinness is also is made possible by the highly prized by fashion-conscious revolutionary manufacturing tech consumers. nique which weds 18K gold case, 'The Swiss advances in face, and works into a single microtechnology already have integrated unit. It was ETA of made very thin watches available Switzerland that developed and at lower prices than were pre produced the new Delirium. viously possible," he said. "Con cord has just introduced a Nine About 1,500 Concord Line Quartz collection of thin Classified Ads Regulations and Rates Ads are payable in advance $.35 per word, $.45 per word in bold type. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confiden tial ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance. Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 , (513) 661-3838 Clock repair material and tools. Manufacture of WANTED TO BUY-precious metal scrap. Tradesman clock springs, dials, escape wheels, verge kits, Highest prices for bench sweeps, buttons and weights, all types of brass and steel stock and sprues, watch and optical scrap, etc. Request custom made parts. Catalog postpaid $2.00. Refining Purchase Schedule. Dept. A4, SWEST, Pearl and Bead Restringing. All types. Fast Tani Engineering, Box 338, Atwater, Ohio INC., 10803 Composite Drive, Dallas, Texas service. Jean A. Gruenig, P.O. Box 12007, 44201. 75220. Columbus, Ohio 43212. WATCH-REPAIR FOR THE TRADE: STERLING FLATWARE STOCKS-new or used needed. Call us before you sell for scrap. WATCH REPIVOTING, WHEEL and PINION QUARTZ, (LED, LCD, STEP MOTOR), AND Also wanted: silver, diamonds, gold scrap, CUTTING expertly done by EUROPEAN MECHANICAL. Careful work & thorough coins and coin collections. Call or write: WATCHMAKER with diploma from going repairs plus ultrasonic cleaning and Mr. Neff, HT, WFN Enterprises, 2260 North GLASHUTTE $15.00 and up. Specializing electronic timing. The Watch-Repair Shop. lake Parkway, Suite 307, Tucker, GA 30084, in REPEATERS, CHRONOMETERS, TUR C.K. Goshman. 1219 Mound St. Madison, Ph. 404-938-0744. BILLONS, KARRUSELS, watches with WI 53715. 1-608-255-3247. PERPETUAL CALENDAR, UNUSUAL ES CAPEMENTS, etc. I can make any part for any Wheel and pinion circular cutters, prefer high watch; it is just a matter of economics. Send Quality watch repair for the trade. Fast ser speed steel for pinion cutters. Clock only. SASE for FREE price list. FREE estimate vice, Ultrasonic cleaning, Electronic timing. Lewis Pritchard, 1329 Valentia St., Denver, given on your watch. PHILIP PONIZ Competitive prices. C&B Watch repair. P.O. co 80220. (303) 388-2392. (NAWCC, AWi), 825C Sir Galahad Dr., Box 136, Mason, Ohio 45040. Lafayette, CO 80026; (303) 665-4388. IMMEDIATE CASH PAID for Gold, Silver, New accounts wanted: Trade work. Watch Platinum, any form! Jewelry scrap, filings, repair. Accutrons & regular wind watches. gold filled, sterling! Immediate top dollar ELECTRONIC WATCH REPAIR SPECIAL Reasonable prices. M & M Watch Repair, cash offer return mail! Satisfaction guaranteed. IST. Digital (LED & LCD) and Analog. Tuxedo 118 N. Washington, La Grange, TX 78945 . Ship insured/registered mail to: American Electric-Quartz Watch Repair Div. P.O. Box Metals Co., St. Andrews Branch, P.O. Box 561 , Tuxedo, NY 10987 (914) 351-2282. 30009H, Charleston, SC 29407. WHEELS, Pinions, Barrels or whatever, repaired or made new. Repivot arbors. Parts made to CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING, order. Send samples for f;ee estimates. On Help Wanted repivoting, rctoothing, escapement work. J. C. all watch parts, inquire first. BRASS, Rod & Van Dyke, CMW, CMC, CMBHI, 1039 Rt. Tubing cut to your length. Small orders wel 163, Oakdale, CT 06370. come. SASE for price list. Ken Leeseberg, WATCHMAKER: Park Lane Associates Inc., Ken-Way Inc. 311 Chestnut St., Addison, an authorized repair center for Colibri Pocket IL 60101. Watches and Seiko Watches is expanding and has available an excellent opportunity for an DON'T TURN-DOWN ANY MORE OF THOSE individual experienced in all phases of watch OCCASIONAL LED, LCD, OR STEP-MOTOR repair to join our service center. We offer WATCH-REPAIRS. Even if you don't want P LSA R WATCH REPAIRS. Complete repairs the advantage of pleasant working conditions to open another account, just send those on all L.E.D. P LSARS exec.pt calculators. with a well-established yet still growing oper repairs to us along with your MASTER CHARGE Prompt Service. Leo G. Koziowski, 55 E. ation, a complete benefit program including or VISA number (plus expiration date) and \ ashingron Street. Chicago, IL 60602, 312- Medical Insurance and a Profit Sharing Pension we'll do the rest. THE WATCH-REPAIR 236-8052. Plan. For more details or to arrange for a SHOP,C.K. Gosh man, 121.9 Mound St., Madison, confidential interview please contact: PARK WI 53715. 1-608-255-3247. LANE ASSOCIATES, INC., 50 PARK LANE, PROVIDENCE, RHODE ISLAND 02907. 401-943-2100 \ at chm ~ k e r with 20 year experience pccial Wanted To Buy izing in antique and fi ne watches: Accutron. MANAGER WATCH MATERIAL. Excellent Piaget. Patek Ph ilippe. Vacheron Constantine, opportunity for a fully qualified manager Roi ·, Omega, and Chro nographs. Re-water WANTED: JULES JERGENSEN, PATEK capable of handling sales, purchasing, stock proofing of skin d ivers' watches guaranrecd. PHILLIPPE, ADOLPHE LANGE and other systems, personnel, and all phases of a watch All repair s guaranteed. Prompt service. Cilbert High Grade Foreign or American Watches. material department. Salary commensurate Calle. 612 Hilltop West Shopping Cen ter. Will buy individually or quantity. Describe with experience. Write or call Earl R. Weaver. Vir1!'inia Beach, irginia 2345 l. Tel. (804) condition and price. Dick Ziebell, Box 427, SWEST, Inc., 10803 Composite Drive, Dallas, 422-9094. Ipswich, MA 01938. 617-356-5756. TX 75220, 214-350-4011. 66 Horological Times/February 1980 TOP DOLLAR SPOT CASH PAID for HIGH 'A' QUALITY SWISS SPRING BARS, WRITE For Sale GRADE American and European pocket FOR FREE SAMPLES, P.O. BOX 774,GREEN watches. Single pieces or collections. Especial VILLE, MS 38701. FOR SALE-Vibrograf B-200 Timer. Com ly need 23, 24 (or more) jewel RRs, repeaters, pletely checked by PORTESCAP. Selling now solid golds. Cases and dials wanted also. For Sale-Timing Machines, Watchmaster Tim for $1,395.00. Asking $950.00. Reason for Richard Vye (NAWCC). 2603 Centinela. ers Vibrograf Timers. Factory rebuilt. All selling-RETIRING. Harold Robertson, 112 Santa Monica, CA 90405, (213) 450-4243. machines guaranteed. Terms available. Also N. Co,nococheague St., Williamsport, MD 21795. available Untrasonic Watch Cleaning Machines. Write Vibrograf sales representative Robert NO COMPETITION Established Watch, Clock, Watchmaker's tools, watchmaker's bench, wrist Swensgard, 2630-A Jett Hill Road, New Rich Jewelry Repair Shop. Small clean inventory. mond Ohio 4515 7. Or phone (513) 553-2113. and pocket watch material, non-break and Ideal momma/poppa operation. Located in the glass crystals, etc. Call S. and S. Supplies, Territory: Southern Indiana, Kentucky, Michi heart of the beautiful Rocky Mountain fishing, gan, Ohio, Tennessee, and West Virginia. 3536 Columbia, Cincinnati, OH 45226, (513) hunting, and ski country. The Watchmaker, 871-1613. 2114 Grand Ave. Glenwood Springs, CO 81601. (303) 945-9547. EVEREADY WATCH BATTERIES. Lowest Situations Wanted prices guaranteed. No minimum order. No freight charge. 2% cash discount. Write for Metal Cutting Lathes, Bench Mills, Drillpresses, Unimats, Maximats, Catalog L, $1.00. Wood Watchmaker, clockmaker seeking position at free price schedule and cross reference guide. the bench in California, preferably southern. turning Machinery, Lathes, Planers, Band N.B. Sales Co., 32250 Red Clover Road, Accutron and Quartz certified. Please reply saws, Combination machines, Catalog W, $1.00. Farmington Hills, MI 48018 (313) 553-0947. c/o Horological Times Dept SW 201, P.O. Precision Tools, Inch or Metric, Aluminum, Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. Brass, Steel, all shapes. Miniature Screws, Taps, U. S. HEADQUARTERS FOR ALL SCHATZ Drills, Saws, Collets, Catalog T, $1.00. Camp PARTS. PARTS FOR THE NEW 400 DAY bell Tools, 1424 Barclay, Springfield, OH Mi see I laneous ELECTRONICS. ALSO FOR KUNDO ELEC 45505. TRONIC. GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE, 7760 FAY AVENUE, LA JOLLA, CA 92037. Digital Watch Service Training. Zantech, Inc. ESEMBL-0-GRAF LIBRARY in 28 volumes, offers training and instruments for servicing all 1800 Swiss-made, Pin-Levers-New-Stock Stop Pittsburgh, 1955. Chronograph repamng is types of digital watches. Course includes diag pers. Also 7 Detcx watchman's clocks needing made easy by Step-by-Step procedure. Each nosis of watch malfunctions and repair me repair. Any reasonable offer. Stuart's Watch small step of removing and replacing each part thods, including techniques in wire bond Repair, 11 Back St., St. Thomas, Virgin Is. and making adjustments is clearly illustrated. repairs using silver epoxy. Louis A. Zanoni, 00801. No concentrated study is necessary. Write EOG, Zantech, Inc., 13 Greentree Rd., Trenton, P.O. Box llOll, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. NJ 08619 (609) 586-5088. Clockmakers' Buying Guide. New, 80-page Second Edition lists over 1,000 spare parts and repair services available from over 400 suppliers. $5 postpaid. 30-day satisfaction or refund. Box 171-T, Bronxville, NY 10708. The Book You've Been Waiting For, THE BEST OF ------,Someone You Know Is Missing Out J.E. COLEMAN: NEW MEMBER: CLOCKMAKER More than twenty-eight years of writing have been skillfully compiled into this first-ever book published of Jess Coleman's original work. This book is designed to aid those who are City/State ______interested in solving the everyday problems confronted in practical clock repairing. This attractive hardbound, 544 Zip ______page encyclopedia of horological information is published by the American Watchmakers School (if Student) ______Institute Press. The price is $30.00 postpaid. Since the passing of Jess Coleman, SUBMITTED BY: many have felt the void created by not being able to write or call Name ~------Coleman for help. The unique 9 page index and cross reference AWi No .. ______prepared by Orville R. Hagans, once again makes it possible Payment enclosed for: 1 yr. regular membership $30.00 to consult with Coleman 1 yr. student membership $10.00 on almost any question relating to horology. Horological Times included in membership Send $30.00 payable to Mail to: American Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Ave., AWi Press, addressed Cincinnati, OH 45211 to The Best Of Coleman, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Dates to Remember Advertisers' Index AWi...... •....••.....• •••. 58 FEBRUARY AMERICAN PER FIT CORP • ...... 4 2-Boston Jewelers Club Banquet; Boston, MA 9-11-Tampa Gift, Jewelry & Variety Merchan BASEL FAIR .....•...••..... • • 27 dise Show; Expo Hall; Tampa, FL B.B. CRYSTAL CO ....•...•...• • · .4 2-10-Tucson '80 Jewelry & Gem Show; M. BER ESH INC .....••..•••.••. 53 Marriott Hotel; Tucson, AZ 9-12-Philadelphia Gift & Jewelry Show; BESTFIT/JADOW ...... •... 22, 23 Holiday Inn City Line; Philadelphia, J. BOREL GROUP •...... •. •. .••. 7 3-8-Memphis Gift & Jewelry Show; Memphis PA BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL ...... 42 Cook Convention Center; Memphis, TN JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL 15-17-Georgia Retail Jewelers Association OF WATCHMAKING .•....•••.... 39 3-8-Retail Jewelers of America (AJA); Inter Convention; Century Center Motor Hotel; national Trade Show and Conference; Atlanta, GA CAS-KER CO ...... Inside Front Cover, 58 Sheraton Centre and New York Hilton; CITIZEN WATCH CO ..•...•...... 17 New York, NY 16-18-Manufacturing Jewelers and Silversmiths of America; Expo/West; Bonaventura C. DVORKIN AND CO .....•.•..•. 51 3-7-lnternational Spring Fair; Birmingham, Hotel; Los Angeles, CA England. EBAUCHES, S.A .•..• •...... 8, 9 21-23-Fourth D.C. Antiques Fair; Armory; ESSLINGER & CO •• ••.•...... •3, 43 4-Diamond Council of America; General Washington, D.C. Membership Meeting; Hilton Hotel; New GEM CITY COLLEGE ...•••.....•. 39 York, NY 21-25-California Jewelers Convention; Silver GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE ado Resort & Country Club; Napa, CA 9-12-INHORGENTA 80; Munich, Germany OF AMERICA ••.••..•••...... •. 19 GERMANOW-SIMON .••.••.• .•. . • 55 29-30-Montana Northern Wyoming Retail THE GOULD CO .••...... 33 14-17-Fourth Annual Winter Market of Jewelers Association; Convention, Show, GREAT AMERICAN TIME CO. INC...•. 16 American Crafts; Baltimore Convention and Seminar; Northern Hotel; Billings, Center; Baltimore, MD MT HER-MIL INC .••.•.•.....•••..• 12 16-AWI Bench Course; Basic Elec & Meter 29-31-St. Louis Gift & Jewelry Show; St. B. JADOW & SONS INC •.•..•..22, 23, 32 Reading; G. Jaeger, Instructor; Detroit, Louis Cervantes Convention Center; St. JENSEN TOOLS INC ...... •..•. 39 Ml Louis, MO JEWELMONT CORP .... Outside Back Cover 17-22-Dallas Spring Gift, Jewelry & House wares Show; Anatole Hotel & Market KANSAS CITY SCHOOL Hall, Dallas, TX OF WATCHMAKING ...... •.. 39 KILB&CO .•...•...... 50 22-23-Minnesota Watchmakers Association; KILGORE COLLEGE •. . 42 Convention and Seminar; Radisson South; APRIL KUONITRAVEL •..•...... 28 Bloomington, MN 8-15-United Jewelry Show; Biltmore Plaza S. LAROSE, INC ...... • ... .. 54 Hotel; Providence, RI 23-25-Spring Pacific Jewelry Show; San Francisco Hilton Hotel; San Francisco, MARSHALL-SWARTCH I LD CO ..... 32, 33 9-13-Watch Materials & Jewelry Distributors CA MAXELL CORP. OF AMERICA •...... 31 Association Convention; Breakers Hotel; MEDIA DIGITAL CORP .••..•.....• 47 Palm Beach, FL 24-29-New York Gift Show; New York MIDO BOREL...... •.•.. ••...• 29 Sheraton Hotel; New York, NY 13-lowa Jewelers and Watchmakers Associa NEST CO ...•...... •.•.• 46 tion; Spring Technical Seminar; Airport 27-March 4-lndependent Jewelers Organization Inn; Des Moines, IA Spring Group Buying Show; Hawaii PARIS JUNIOR COLLEGE .•.• ...••• 51 PORTESCAP U.S ...... •. ...•• • 5 13-17-lsrael Jewelry Fair; Tel Aviv Hilton; PRO-CRAFT •.•...••••.• ...... 26 Tel Aviv, Israel SEIKO TIME CORP •.... Inside Back Cover 18-20-Wisconsin Licensed Watchmakers As STANDARD UNBREAKABLE MARCH sociation; Annual Convention; Fox Hills WATCH CRYSTAL CO. INC ••..•..•• 39 Resort; Mishicot, WI STANLEY DONAHUE CO. 1-2-Mid-America Jewelry Trade Show; Site OF HOUSTON, INC •..•..•...... 16 undetermined 18-22-American Gem Society; Annual Con SWEST INC ....•...•.....•...• 47 clave; Fairmont Hotel; Dallas, TX E. & J. SWIGART CO . Outside Back Cover, 42 1-2-Wisconsin Jewelers Association; Annual Trade Show; Olympia Resort; Oconomo 19-28-European Watch, Clock & Jewelry woc, WI TENNESSEE JEWELERS SUPPLY INC •.. 50 Fair; Basel, Switzerland TWIN CITY WATCH SUPPLY CO .••..• 51 2-4-Manufacturing Jewelers and Silversmiths 22-24-Writing Instrument Manufacturers As I. WI DESS & SONS . of America; Expo/East; Sheraton Centre; ..•... 50 sociation Write Show; New York Statler New York, NY Hotel; New York, NY ZANTECH INC ... ..•..• 13 The New Seiko Bracelet Replacement Screw Assortment Kit-STC-144: An efficient and dependable way to save time and money while you perform simple bracelet repairs right on your own premises. It's everything you need in one • An illustrated Case umb ring compact attractive case. Best of al I, Chart: To make selecting the appro they're genuine Seiko parts: priate part easy and convenient. • 48 Numbers: A special assortment • A sturdy, leatherette comQact case of 48 of the most popular screws, with 52 unbreakable clear bottles: three of each kind, for most brace In a professionally designed and lets, clasps, and safety chains in the attractively styled flat case that Seiko line. measures 6V2" x 7V4: 1 Order the New Seiko Bracelet Replacement Screw Assortment Kit STC-144 today, from your authorized Seiko Material Distributor. Price : $22.50. SEIKO Seiko Time Corporation, 555 West 57th St., New York, N.Y. 10019. JEWELMONT®~ ~ CORPORATION • _I Feature Of The Month @i@v:J Battery Tester $6.95 ORDER#T100 OR FREE Eveready 201 Eveready 371 Eveready 301 Eveready 381 Eveready 303 WATCH/CALCULATOR Eveready 384 Eveready 309 BATTERIES Eveready 386 Eveready 313 Eveready 387 Eveready 323 Eveready 388 w I Eveready 325 Everead y 389 ::> Eveready 343 Eveready 390 I Eveready 344 Eveready 391 ;::: Eve ready 350 Eveready 392 (f) Everea dy 354 Eveready 393 z Eve ready 355 Eveready 394 Eveready 357 Eve rea dy 395 Eve ready 362 Eveready 396 Eveready 364 Eveready 397 Eve re ady 366 Aslc for our price list Eveready 399 JEWELMONT®~ ~P.O . Box 1404 CORPORATION • _I Mpls., Minn. 55440 Call Toll Free Nationwide 1-800-328-0614 Minnesota 800-742-0508 ••• the E. & J. Swigart Company has, since its founding in 1879, been one of the largest of pure material houses in the continental United States, offering full lines of Swiss and American watch materials and batteries, including genuine materials from such factories as Seiko, Citizens, Bulova, Girard Perregoux, Omega, Longines, Wyler, Zodiac, Rolex, Hamilton, Elgin and other popular brands. We also carry full lines of tools and supplies for the jeweler and watchmaker, as well as regular and jewelry findings, clock materials, watch glass, bands and straps, optical goods, packaging supplies, tags, job envelopes, and bags, imprinted on our own presses. The majority of our sixty-six employees have been with us for periods of twenty years or more, giving us an expertise which is unique in a complex and highly technical business. We invite you to try our stocks and service. Catalogue Available on Request THEE. & J. SWIGART COMPANY 34 West 6th Street Cincinnati, Ohio 45202 (513) 721-1427