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WWDTHURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00

9LQFH&DPXWRFRP 9LQFH&DPXWRFRP MEN’S INSPIRATIONS WWD MILESTONES WHAT SPARKED NEW YORK NAUTICA AT 30 DESIGNERS’ SECTION II IMAGINATIONS FOR FALL. PAGE MW1

PROFITS UP 27.6% Ralph Lauren Plots Retail Expansion

By VICKI M. YOUNG

RALPH LAUREN Corp. wants more stores for its brands. Taking a cue from the changing dynamics of con- sumer spending from the emerging markets, the com- THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY pany is also eyeing a retail expansion that would see freestanding stores for its Polo, women’s Blue Label, WWD Denim & Supply and children’s businesses, both here and abroad. “We’re articulating more clearly what we’ve begun to see as we go into markets such as the Middle East, Russia and Brazil where vertical stores are the pri- mary retail channel,” Roger Farah, president and chief operating officer, told WWD on Wednesday as the company reported its third-quarter results. The change doesn’t lessen the presence of Ralph Lauren freestanding stores, which are more focused on the high-end luxury Black and Purple collections. While the firm will continue to seek choice locations for Ralph Lauren stores, the additional freestand- ing stores means it will have a broader availability Maiden of sites to cull from to better reach the consumer. According to Farah, most malls in Asia have a wing devoted to kids, and while the firm will still be selec- tive in where its children’s stores will be located, the store sites for that business will be easier to find than when trying to find the ideal real estate for its higher- Voyage end luxury Ralph Lauren stores. “In the past, Denim & Supply and children’s were distributed to department stores, and we would add Marchesa cofounders Georgina Chapman a little of that in our own stores. If you go to Brazil and Keren Craig are familiar with the evening and China, they don’t have the same department store structure, and [as an example] we were underserving portion of the lifestyles of the rich and the demand from the Brazilian consumer when in famous. Now, they’re offering their bohemian- Miami, New York or London,” Farah said. glamour-girl clothes for the daylight hours Also an avenue for future expansion is its accesso- ries business, which is still under development. with Marchesa Voyage, a new contemporary Asked about freestanding accessories stores, line launching for fall. Here, a look from the Farah said, “I think theoretically it could be yes, but collection. For more, see page 4. SEE PAGE 3 Net-a-porter’s Print Mix

By SAMANTHA CONTI

LONDON — Natalie Massanet always describes the Net-a-porter e-commerce site as a fashion magazine online — and now she’s actually launching one, as well as a print version later this year aimed at rival- ing the likes of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. The Web site, owned by Compagnie Financière Richemont SA, will today unveil phase one of its print and digital magazine project that aims to speak to luxury fashion-focused women, in multiple lan- guages, worldwide. Net-a-porter first will launch a free, weekly online magazine called The Edit, which is available from the site beginning today. The online magazine will have 52 themed editions annually, and will be the sister of an as-yet-unnamed print title that will make its debut in the fall and will come out four to six times a year. The Edit is 30 pages, and features fashion shoots that allow readers to buy directly from the pages, as well as news, features and interviews with women from around the world. It carries a mix of advertis- ing from brands that are stocked by Net-a-porter — as well as from brands that are not, such as Tiffany & Co., Rolex, Harry Winston, Jo Malone, Estée Lauder and W Hotels. In addition to The Edit, Net-a-porter has cre- ated a one-off print magazine, The Collections Special, that offers a taste of the print magazine to be launched this fall. The Edit and The Collections Special feature Natalia Vodianova, shot by Paolo Roversi, on their covers.

PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO SEE PAGE 10 2 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 Choi to Fly Solo at Jimmy Choo ing their roles well of late, with THE BRIEFING BOX By SAMANTHA CONTI Holloway looking after men’s shoes and accessories, and Choi oversee- IN TODAY’S WWD LONDON — Sandra Choi has be- ing women’s shoes and bags. come the sole creative director of They also had a friendly rela- Jimmy Choo, following the abrupt tionship, and would often attend departure of Simon Holloway. industry and social events togeth- Nicola Formichetti at Choi and Holloway had served er. Last month, Choi and Holloway the Boom Boom Room. as co-creative directors since were in Jimmy Choo’s Milan show- For more, see WWD.com. November 2011, following the room showing editors and buyers departure of the company’s co- the latest men’s collection. founder Tamara Mellon. However, another industry Under the new organization, Sandra Choi source said that the double role Choi will oversee the brand FALK EVAN PHOTO BY of creative director never worked identity and design for all collec- development, including the suc- properly. Choi, the niece of tions, including women’s shoes, cessful launch of both the Jimmy namesake Jimmy Choo, has been handbags, accessories, the re- Choo licensee businesses in fra- with the firm since its inception cently launched men’s shoes and grance and eyewear, and the intro- in 1996, while Holloway was licensed collections, which now duction of the men’s collections. hired in 2010 by Jimmy Choo’s include fragrance and eyewear. We are grateful for all that he has former ceo Joshua Schulman, Pierre Denis, Jimmy Choo’s accomplished at Jimmy Choo and who joined Bergdorf Goodman chief executive, said Wednesday wish him every success in his fu- last year as president. that Holloway, who had been ture endeavors,” Denis said. Jimmy Choo is a division PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER STEVE BY PHOTO with Jimmy Choo since 2010, de- Holloway’s departure came as of Labelux GmbH, a privately cided to leave the company to a surprise. held luxury goods group. Jimmy Ralph Lauren Corp. wants more stores for its brands and is pursue other interests. Although industry sources said Choo has more than 150 stores also looking to add freestanding stores for its Polo, women’s “During his tenure, Simon it took some time for Choi and in 32 countries. Blue Label, Denim & Supply and children’s businesses. PAGE 1 has contributed greatly to Jimmy Holloway to split up their new re- — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS Choo, both in product and brand sponsibilities, they were manag- FROM MILES SOCHANet-a-Porter today will unveil phase one of its print and digital magazine project that aims to speak to luxury fashion-focused women, in multiple languages, worldwide. PAGE 1

Dolce, Gabbana Tax Hearing Goes On Pacific Sunwear of California Inc. is betting Kendall and Kylie This amount and the fact that it brands, relocated to Luxembourg Jenner’s namesake clothing brand, which is launching Friday, will By LUISA ZARGANI takes into consideration Italy’s tax in 2005 to work for Gado Sarl, the help draw a younger crowd to its stores. PAGE 3 rate, standing at about 37.5 per- designers’ holding company in MILAN — Judge Antonella cent at the time, took center stage that country, which the tax po- The Femmy Awards, which celebrates the achievements of Brambilla presided over an eight- for most of Wednesday’s hearing. lice consider a legal entity used intimate apparel industry leaders worldwide, pulled in a record hour hearing Wednesday as wit- Questions from prosecutors and to avoid higher corporate taxes turnout of 775 guests Tuesday. PAGE 3 nesses called by prosecutors the lawyers for the defendants in Italy. Bergomi, who reported Laura Pedio and Gaetano Ruta — who include managing direc- to Ruella, lived in Luxembourg Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig are launching for fall took the stand in the ongoing trial tor and board member Cristiana until December 2006, when she Marchesa Voyage, a contemporary collection done in partnership of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Ruella and Dolce’s brother and returned to Milan. She was the with LF USA. PAGE 4 Gabbana, who are charged with board member Alfonso Dolce, both only Dolce & Gabbana employee omitted and unfaithful earnings once again present at the hearing in that country, and was suc- An innovative intellectual property rights lawsuit against declarations. The defendants — revolved around the consultan- ceeded by Claudia Bertinetti. In garment makers in China and India is causing some have denied the charges. cy’s choice of Italy’s tax rate in the her job, Bergomi was assisted consternation in the business in Beijing. PAGE 8 Of note was the testimony of evaluation of the brand, as well as by Alter Domus, a Luxembourg- Marco Tanzi Marrotti, an execu- the expected growth of royalties. based agency that helped provide Deborah Needleman’s first issue of T: The New York Times tive of PricewaterhouseCoopers, Mario Ambrosetti, a services. Dealing with lawyers, Style Magazine will make its debut Feb. 17. PAGE 10 the consultancy tapped by Dolce PricewaterhouseCoopers corpo- investigators and anticounterfeit rate finance director, remembered experts, Bergomi registered, con- and Gabbana to set a price for The Court of Florence determined that Prada’s allegations of their brands in spring 2003. “I that the possibility of setting up a trolled and “maintained alive” tortious interference were unfounded in Gucci’s 2001 acquisition was told that the designers were company in Luxembourg emerged about 1,600 brands for the group looking at the possibility of pub- at the time, “although it was not a in more than 80 countries around of Italian footwear manufacturer Regain. PAGE 11 licly listing their company,” said definitive decision.” According to the world. The defendants’ law- Tanzi Marrotti, explaining that the tax police calculations, which yers pointed to lengthy and labo- The Council of Fashion Designers of America is hosting an initial public offering would took into account lower tax charg- rious procedures connected to high-level talks about the possibility of a separate men’s wear have required the brands to be es in Luxembourg, the value of the the protection of the brands that a version of New York Fashion Week. PAGE MW1 “brought back into the group,” brands was estimated at 1.1 billion transfer to Luxembourg entailed. and controlled by a company euros, or $1.4 billion. Prosecutors “It took six months to just ini- Seven For All Mankind is introducing a new range of men’s rather than two individuals. underscored that “the value of the tiate these procedures in 2004,” jeans for fall that emphasizes fit and comfort. PAGE MW2 Based on a business plan for brand is inversely proportional to said Bergomi. the 2004-2007 period, calculations the fiscal weight,” or tax. To further fuel the concept Fossil Inc. is releasing its first Swiss men’s watch collection of growing royalties and the com- The first Dolce & Gabbana that Gado was not devised as a this month, in the hopes of extending its reach to a higher-end pany’s latest revenues, the con- employee took the stand on screen, the defendants’ lawyers consumer, particularly in Asia. PAGE MW2 sultancy pegged the value of the Wednesday. Maria Grazia produced paperwork including a Dolce & Gabbana and D&G brands Bergomi, employed by the firm job description to seek a succes- ON WWD.COM at 360 million euros, or $484.4 mil- since 2001 and responsible for sor for Bergomi and the latter’s lion at current exchange. the intellectual property of the rent contract in Luxembourg. EYE: Nicola Formichetti’s limited-edition bag for Mugler was the raison de fêter at a romp cohosted by Shopbop. com and Mugler at The Standard’s Boom Boom Room. REI’s Jewell Nominated for Interior Post For more, see WWD.com/eye. Obama said at the White House on ity initiatives at REI, increased TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS By KRISTI ELLIS Wednesday. “Last year REI do - the company’s sales to $2 billion [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. nated almost $4 million to protect annually from $1 billion, added 71 COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. WASHINGTON — President trails and parks. Twenty percent of stores for a total of 127 units and VOLUME 205, NO. 26. THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two Obama has nominated one of the the electricity used in their stores expanded its online business. additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance retail industry’s leaders — Sally comes from renewable sources.” “Her work in the private sector Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Jewell, president and chief ex- “She knows there is no con- as a petroleum engineer, a suc- Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. 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If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. inee for Interior Secretary, which $1 billion in sales can do the the Outdoor Industry Association. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt oversees national parks, energy re- right thing for our planet.” “Her experience will ensure that of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request serves and offshore oil fields. Jewell joined REI in 1996 as a the nation’s public lands and in- for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. 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WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 3 WWD.COM Ralph Lauren Kendall and Kylie Link With PacSun Although the Jenner sisters are By RACHEL BROWN often paired together, they stressed Profits Up 27.6% they aren’t the same in every regard. PACIFIC SUNWEAR of California Fit was critical to Kendall during {Continued from page one} Inc. is trying to get women who the process of developing Kylie and that’s a long way away from [us] wanting or stopped shopping at the retailer Kendall, and Kylie was opinionated needing to do that. [The priority is] making when they were teenagers to return about perfecting the colors, fabrics sure the accessories presentation in the exist- to its stores and is betting Kendall and stitching. Kylie is comfortable at ing stores is improved. For many years, acces- and Kylie Jenner’s namesake clothing SARDELLA DONATO PHOTO BY public events, and Kendall is some- sories were primarily to support our apparel brand might do the trick. times extremely nervous. “I always merchandise.” “We see them entering the sweet tend to think of the worst that could As the company eyes new real estate sites, spot of our target customer, and we happen, so that’s what freaks me out or those currently in operation, it’ll first con- look at building a brand with them, being around a lot of people,” said sider a redo of the layout of the floors to better not just creating a moment,” said Kendall. “I feel I have so much to live showcase its growing accessories business. Gary Schoenfeld, president and chief up to or impress people. I don’t like And the accessories business will be grow- executive officer of Anaheim, Calif.- that pressure of feeling like people ing due to consumer demand. based PacSun. “Importantly, at a can judge me.” Farah explained: “For the emerging mar- younger age than others, they have Schoenfeld, who said PacSun plans ket consumer, accessories doesn’t have to fit. been able to really establish their to expand Kendall and Kylie over the It’s not seasonal for the most part and is read- own credibility as influencers on fash- next two to four years, indicated their ily identified as a status item, whether signa- ion. I have nieces who are 22 and 21 distinct influences on the brand would ture handbags or eyewear or iconic watches. and a daughter who is a senior in high be fleshed out further in future sea- In the emerging markets, those are the early school, and all three of them keep sons. Kendall and Kylie seem ready to signs of achievement and [of them] having telling me about their Instagrams and express their individual personalities. arrived. Accessories is much more of a state- their tweets and seeing them in maga- “It’s fun to be with your sister, but, at ment that can be seen by others.” zines and on the E network. Their the same time, we don’t always want Shares of Ralph Lauren Corp. rose 5.9 credibility absolutely aligns with our to be grouped as Kendall and Kylie at percent Wednesday to close at $174.63 in Big target customer base.” all times. We are growing up. I’m 17. Board trading following the firm’s report of a Kendall, 17, and Kylie, 15, who I’m going to be 18 soon. I’m not a baby 27.6 percent spike in third-quarter profits that entered the public consciousness at anymore,” said Kendall. bested Wall Street’s expectations and projec- 10 and 9 years old, respectively, on Kylie and Before the Kendall and Kylie brand tion for continued growth ahead. the reality show “Keeping Up With Kendall Jenner was unveiled, PacSun’s women’s busi- Ralph Lauren, chairman and chief execu- the Kardashians,” themselves recon- ness was gaining ground. Schoenfeld tive officer, said, “Our orientation as a design- nected with PacSun through team- explained women’s, which accounts led marketing and merchandising organiza- ing with the retailer and licensee interested in doing an apparel line for 40 to 45 percent of PacSun’s total tion has enabled us to deepen our connection Majestic Inc. on the Kendall and while watching their older sisters sales, has been bolstered by focus- with our customers, particularly as we ex- Kylie brand, which is launching with Kim, Kourtney and Khloé Kardashian ing on 17- to 24-year-olds rather than pand our portfolio of products and lifestyle a 26-piece spring collection on Friday work on the Kardashian Kollection younger girls, keeping up with fash- sensibilities.” at PacSun’s 644 stores. Priced from for Sears. When Majestic and PacSun ion trends and tying its messaging to For the three months ended Dec. 29, net $24.50 to $79.50, pieces in the collec- approached Kendall and Kylie about the overall PacSun identity steeped income was $215.7 million, or $2.31 a diluted tion include chambray button-downs, eight months ago to start a brand, they in the California lifestyle. “We’ve had share, from $169 million, or $1.78, last year. chiffon tops, high-waisted shorts, said they jumped at the opportunity. positive comps in our women’s busi- Excluding $13 million in pretax impairment denim, graphic T-shirts, dresses, jack- PacSun has a “California vibe, and we ness coupled with improvements in and restructuring charges in the quarter con- ets, bandeaus and scarves. are from California,” said Kendall. margins, and we think we are starting nected with the discontinuance of the Rugby Kendall and Kylie share fashion “We wanted to go with something a to get back into the competitive set of operation, net income would have been up aspirations — the former leaning to little more California fun, summery… retailers for college-age girls and girls 33 percent to $224 million, or $2.40 a diluted the modeling side of the business and for our first line and wanted to be even into their early 20s,” he said. share. The company beat Wall Street’s con- the latter to design — and became able to build from there.” “They are starting to rethink PacSun.” sensus estimate of $2.19 by 12 cents, accord- ing to Yahoo Finance. Even at the high end of estimates, it still beat that by one cent. Total net revenues rose 2.2 percent to $1.85 billion from $1.81 billion. Included in Femmy Awards Fete Innerwear’s Best that was a 2.3 percent increase in total net sales to $1.8 billion from $1.76 billion, which Femmy award for their hip Schettino of Hautelook, contained a planned decrease in wholesale By KARYN MONGET and trendy lingerie and stated, “The flash e-com sales of 2.1 percent to $733.9 million and a 5.6 swimwear brand. business is barely five years percent gain in retail sales to $1.06 billion. REFLECTING THE upbeat mood of In the textiles arena, old and we were at the The balance of revenues was attributable to this week’s fall market, the annual Andreas Dorner, global pivotal edge of that move- a 1.2 percent increase in licensing income to Femmy Awards pulled in a record marketing director for the ment. Today, it’s a normal $50.2 million. On the retail front, contribution turnout of 775 guests Tuesday at a business unit of textile fi- way of doing business and from new stores and e-commerce operations cocktail and dinner party at Cipriani bers at The Lenzing Group, Nordstrom and Hautelook partially offset lower sales at Asian conces- 42nd Street in New York. received an award for the have been on the cutting sion shops and store closures connected with Staged by The Underfashion Club, Austria-based company, edge of this movement.” the firm’s Greater China network reposition- a 55-year-old industry organization, and Gary Schettino, execu- The Cosabella company ing efforts. Consolidated comparable-store the event recognizes and celebrates tive vice president and gmm was created in 1983 but sales rose 4 percent. the achievements of intimate apparel of Hautelook, took home the team’s efforts came to For the nine months, profits grew 6.2 per- industry leaders worldwide. the Innovation Award. Josie Ron Frasch a brief halt in 1989, when cent to $622.8 million, or $6.63 a diluted share, Representing the retail world, Natori, founder and chief and Josie the Cosabella warehouse on a revenue gain of 1.2 percent to $5.3 billion. an award for Bloomingdale’s was executive officer of the Natori was dealt a blow from The company said it expects fourth-quar- accepted by Francine Klein, execu- Natori Co., was decked out Hurricane Andrew, which ter net revenues to rise by a midsingle-digit tive vice president and general mer- in one of her eveningwear flattened the facility. Ever percentage, reflecting an 8 to 11 percent gain chandising manager, and Elizabeth designs to be shown during fashion since, cofounder Valeria Campello in retail revenues and wholesale revenues. Hospodar, vice president and divi- week. She was bestowed the Lifetime said the brand’s formula for success In the third quarter, the company also saw sional merchandise manager. The Achievement Award. has been consistent: “We continue to the growing importance of e-commerce plat- Campello family — which included The festivities kicked off with the create quality products but we also forms in extending its direct-to-consumer owners Ugo, Valeria, Guido, Silvia event’s presenter Carson Kressley bring a lot of fun and fashion colors,” reach. The company now has e-commerce and Stefano Campello of Miami-based — best known as one of the stars of she said. operations in 11 European countries, and Cosabella — accepted a statuesque the Emmy Award-winning TV series Ron Frasch, president and chief recently launched sites for Ralph Lauren in “Queer Eye for the Straight Guy” merchant at Saks Inc., presented the Japan and Club Monaco in North America. — who told the audience: “When I award to Natori. He told the audience Korea will be launched later this year, fol- walked in the door tonight a man that Natori and her husband, Kenneth, lowed by China. asked, ‘Femmy?’ Well, I’m a little are the godparents of his twins and de- According to Farah, e-commerce will con- light in my loafers but don’t call me scribed her as “my best friend.” tinue to play an important role with consum- Femmy,” said Kressley, “But I do like “I had no idea 35 years ago that I ers globally. He explained that consumers my lingerie short and tight, just like would be standing here and accept- often get product information online, and the cellulose underwear I’m wearing ing an award from the president of that due to “price arbitrage, since products right now.” Saks,” said Natori, wiping away tears. are priced differently in different markets,” Upon accepting the award for “I was on Wall Street and had become those that have the wherewithal to travel Lenzing, Dorner noted, “It’s interest- so bored. And today I’m receiving an globally will pick and choose where to buy ing how one innovative ingredient award from The Underfashion Club. certain products. like MicroModal [which Lenzing pro- I want to thank the retailers, partners While there may be differing consumer duces] can make such a difference in and friends who have been so loyal.” preferences or climates around the world, intimate apparel….I’ve had the plea- Kressley lightened up the room there is one thing that doesn’t change. “Our From left: Stefano, Guido, sure of working with different seg- with a final comment. best-selling products sell well worldwide.… Valeria, Ugo and Silvia ments of the apparel industry, but my “Oh, that was so sweet. I just wanted That’s more common than I would have Campello of Cosabella. favorite is intimate apparel because to squeeze Ron Frasch. But that’s OK, guessed,” Farah said. THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY it’s such a spirited industry.” we’ll do it in the car later,” he gushed.

4 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 WWD.COM

Daywear in the Life of Marchesa called it. “It’s for a global-minded woman,” she said, “whether she is traveling the globe By JESSICA IREDALE ·· or whether she is just staying at home.” Mood boards on one wall of the WHEN MARCHESA COFOUNDERS Marchesa studio in the Starrett-Lehigh Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig chose Building were covered in images that Marchesa Luisa Casati, a legend of fashion channeled the bohemian excess of flamboyancy, as their muse and namesake JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY Talitha Getty. The clothes hanging on eight years ago, they made plain their plans racks distilled that glamorous gypsy to dress women for their fanciest moments, sensibility into a look that is suited most of them occurring after 5 o’clock (or to, yet will stand out in, the current roughly 2 p.m. PST, when the major red contemporary climate. There’s carpets open during awards season). an eclectic lady-of-leisure angle At this point, Marchesa’s gowns are as to the collection, which is big on affiliated with the Hollywood award original prints that appear on circuit as Ryan Seacrest. Then there’s languid shirts, skirts and genie also Marchesa’s bridal collection, as pants. Perhaps unsurprisingly, well as Notte, their cocktail dress line. Voyage’s aesthetic was conceived by Chapman, who, as Harvey Weinstein’s wife, lives some version of a fairy tale — a Something Keren recent Vogue feature on her was titled “Magic Kingdom.” While and I had always vacationing, she found herself fiddling with her own collection wanted to do Georgina Chapman of printed scarves, tying them and Keren Craig up in different ways that inspired various Voyage styles. There are was more of a also furs, embellished denim and pieces featuring extensive embroidery loungewear deal done in India. The collection, which wholesales between $100 and $400, — the Marchesa in is produced in Asia. Nothing is plain or basic, down to the 45-style shoe lineup, which includes over-the-knee her palazzo. wedge boots and sandals and pumps jazzed up with bohemian embroideries. — GEORGINA CHAPMAN, “We felt like we needed it to have MARCHESA a personality,” said Chapman. “There would have to be a reason for But because even the most someone to buy it.” The cofounders see fabulous lives need clothes by Voyage competing with 3.1 Phillip Lim day, for fall Chapman and Craig and Alexander Wang. “Obviously we’re a are launching Marchesa Voyage, different aesthetic,” said Craig. “But that’s a contemporary collection done where we see it sitting.” in partnership with LF USA. Edward Chapman, Marchesa’s ceo “Something Keren and I had and Georgina’s brother, started talks always wanted to do was more with LF USA a couple of years ago. “The of a loungewear deal — the contemporary space obviously has a Marchesa in her palazzo,” said lot of potential, especially if you’re Chapman, during a preview of Looks from the looking to be a lifestyle brand,” he Voyage. Incidentally, Chapman new fall collection. said. “There’s an opportunity to build and Craig are each pregnant·· a sizable business.” Retail partners with a second child — have yet to see the line, but Edward perhaps that influenced said ideally Voyage will launch in 250 Voyage’s “grab and go” doors, department stores and specialty sensibility, as Craig The Marchesa Voyage mood board. stores internationally. London Fog Tie-ups Set for Aug. Launch ally great to be able to reflect a little bit cre- By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG atively and to think about where your business is going. There is something to be said for hav- LONDON FOG will be ramping up its ing an ‘Eat Pray Love’ kind of moment. We’ve fashion quota this fall, thanks to the brand’s been asking ourselves, ‘What do we really love first designer collaborations with Chris Benz, about the brand? Where is the company going?’ Cynthia Rowley and Badgley Mischka. We’re superexcited to get back to work and to Each has pulled together a capsule col- go to Paris.” lection — a first for the 80-plus-year-old London Fog is making its designer goods brand — that will make its debut in stores relatively affordable, with retail prices ranging in August. Rowley, for example, has cre- from $50 for an umbrella to $275 for outerwear. ated a women’s trenchcoat, a girls’ The collection will be sold in specialty and de- trenchcoat and an umbrella. partment stores, as well as through the outer- The London Fog collaboration is wear brand’s Web site and each designer’s re- one of the projects Benz has been spective site. working on while taking a break Badgley Mischka has created a coat, rain from this New York Fashion boots and luggage for women, as well as a girls’ Week. His studio was recent- poncho. Aside from having the same parent ly photographed and fea- company, Iconix, Mark Badgley said of London tured on the Web site One Fog, “We grew up with it, especially growing up Kings Lane. For London in Oregon, where it rains practically every day Fog, he designed a coat, of the year. It’s always been an iconic brand.” rain boots and an um- One of the advantages of working with brella for women, as well London Fog is that the company has the tech- as a men’s coat. Benz plans nical aspects of outerwear down pat, which A sketch Chris Benz’s sketch for a London Fog women’s coat. to support a few designer freed up Badgley and James Mischka to focus of Badgley friends at their respective on the fashion, Mischka said. Designing a girls’ and Badgley Mischka, among other labels, Mischka’s shows, but Monday he will be off coat (and one “with a little dash of Sherlock said, “Giving these amazing designers the London Fog to Paris for Première Vision. Holmes”) was new territory but not a path they freedom to reimagine the classic trench, as poncho “While everyone else is busy plan to follow anytime soon, Badgley said. well as other staples items that London Fog is for girls. with the shows, we’re getting started Dari Marder, chief marketing officer of the known for, is exciting not only for them but for on spring 2014,” he said. “It’s been re- Iconix Brand Group, which owns London Fog us as well.”

6 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013

10 Crosby Derek Lam: As Derek Lam’s contemporary 10 Crosby Derek Lam Red Valentino J Brand collection grows, he and his design director, Elizabeth Giardina, have worked to define the customer, who they see as modern and worldly, as Giardina said, but most of all, “natural.” They eased up on the bold prints of the past few seasons to focus on texture, working strong outerwear in nubby wools and rich faux ponyskin — the former on a thick blazer with a wrap cummerbund effect, the latter on classically tailored silhouettes. The fuzz factor played out on sweatshirts in interesting velvet and pony fabrications, as well as brushed mohair knit sweaters and dresses. The knits came in gray and ivory colorblocking, with pink and blue undertones that gave a nice softness and depth to the palette. While the clothes were about a quiet, casual sophistication, Lam and Giardina added gusto with accessories, such as flat, snakeskin-printed ponyskin boots and color-blocked bags in rust and forest green.

Red Valentino: The fall collection of Valentino’s younger line, Red Valentino, was presented at a showroom appointment on Tuesday. Juicy Couture Looking to the Brothers Grimm’s “Hansel and Gretel” for inspiration, creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli created a lineup full of youthful charm and whimsical, folkloric elements from the story’s native Germany. Gretel was the muse for several looks, including a knit corset with a peplum that was teamed with a full skirt THE UNOFFICIAL reminiscent of a dirndl, and START TO Hansel provided design cues FASHION WEEK for the hunting jackets in men’s wear-influenced plaids KICKED OFF and houndstooth. The floral WITH A embroideries on knit dresses FULL LINEUP added a sweet and innocent OF SHOWS. touch. Marzipan inspired the bold florals on a capelet, and a gingerbread house scene was referenced on cameo- NEW YORK printed skirts.

DKNY: The DKNY men’s COLLECTIONS collection is always geared toward the urban lifestyle, and fall’s overall theme focused on the easy flexibility of day- to-night pieces. The line took recognizable men’s wear staples such as blazers and trenchcoats and twisted them with a modern interpretation. The effect was successfully achieved by the use of bonded double-face nylon that looked Fall 2013 like wool for jackets, and embossed leather for bomber noticeably expanded her J Brand: Lest anyone mistake urban androgyny that has sporty slant, John Patrick and biker silhouettes. The offering of separates with a J Brand for merely a skinny been fueling the contemporary showed his version of a traditional skinny suit was strong assortment of jackets, jeans line with a few cool market and that J Brand has Sixties-inspired collection, reinvented in tropical flannel pants, skirts and knits — the collaborations under its been testing since its rtw demonstrated mostly with a and a supertechnical wool/ colorful graphic sweater low-rise belt, its ceo, Jeff debut. The total look, styled by few little black dresses. Terrific nylon/spandex blend that was a standout — and she Rudes, and its new owner, Karl Templer, was fierce and outerwear like wool pile should help keep the DKNY stepped up her material play. A Fast Retailing, issued a expensive-looking if familiar, anoraks and camel wool flannel man cool in the boardroom and houndstooth coat, for instance, money-backed statement to with the strongest statements slouch jackets were amusingly on the dance floor. featured a wide fox-fur trim, the contrary this season. J delivered in edgy outerwear paired with shorts. The Eighties while a reversible double- Brand held its first ready-to- and mannish trousers. Of the surfaced with a sweatshirt and Lisa Perry: “We went out of the faced wool, used for a jacket, wear presentation, featuring former, a cropped boiled-wool skirt in shocking pink bonded box,” said Lisa Perry at her shift and A-line skirt, was 19 looks by design director jacket in an oatmeal color nylon that happily recalled the fall presentation held in her done in Perry’s signature dot Donald Oliver. “We’ve been almost looked like shearling; heyday of Stephen Sprouse. Madison Avenue boutique. pattern on one side and a glen very strategic about growing,” of the latter, the white leather Patrick typically presents It was a good decision as the plaid on the other for a fun and said Rudes, noting that they track pants were cool and informally, but this season’s collection demonstrated an functional look. launched the rtw category three slouchy. There was also some decision to show the disparate impressive evolution for the This collection should have seasons ago, six years after denim disguised in fancy looks on the runway underscored designer. There was still a a wider appeal, which is a good the jeans, “to make sure the coatings and frosty colors. the collection’s weak styling. Sixties vibe to the clothes, but thing now that the designer is customers were ready for it.” it was worked in more subtly looking to build her wholesale Ready or not, the customer Organic by John Patrick: For a Skaist-Taylor: It’s too early to than in past seasons. Perry business. will be faced with the slick girlier look than his signature tell if lightning will strike WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 7 WWD.COM

DKNY Lisa Perry Organic Skaist-Taylor by John Patrick

M. Patmos Rita Vinieris

FOR MORE REVIEWS GIANNONI AND THOMAS IANNACCONE ERICKSEN, GIOVANNI KYLE GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY AND PHOTOS, SEE twice for Gela Nash-Taylor and more focused than what they course, a tracksuit, which this with feminine Rita Vinieris: Rivini Pamela Skaist-Levy, the women showed a year ago, with the time was cut with a longer, touches. Patmos WWD.com/ bridal designer responsible for Juicy Couture lines of tailored jackets and roomier jacket and slimmer also played with runway. Rita Vinieris’ who launched their second act, shorts — a suit if you choose pants. “I saw her as a girl who trompe l’oeil, debut eveningwear Skaist-Taylor, a year ago. So far, to wear it that way — neatly travels and would bring a little showing a sweater collection lived so good, they said, while noting drawn and fabrics, such as laid-back Left Bank to L.A.,” cut to look like a up perfectly to that the line is in its infancy, leather, fur and a butterfly- said LeAnn Nealz, president capelet over a T-shirt, as well her show notes. “I wanted to with its new look and customer print crepe, elevated. Their and chief creative officer. The as funnel-neck dickies for a explore effortless elegance still being sussed out. secret ingredient has always best look was a navy tweed turtleneck effect. with bias-cut, simple evening Per their design mantra, been a sense of humor, which coat accented with gold Lurex Wonderful knits are the shapes and play with scale to Nash-Taylor and Skaist- remained fully intact on thread and a black collar, worn core of Patmos’ business, so create sumptuous textures,” Levy began with what they fringed cable knits, jackets with with coated skinny jeans and a they were again plentiful, from it read. Vinieris did just that personally want to wear, which military badges and a fur hat blinged-out bag that screamed oversize waffle-knit cardigans with her beautiful slender for fall was English military, that looked like it was issued by “Ooh la la.” to jacquard sweaters in ikat cocktail dresses and gowns Indian raj and the color red. the Queen’s Guard. and camouflage motifs. Those done in skillfully embroidered “We were dying for red,” said M. Patmos: “A ladylike woman prints were also worked on silks, hand-beaded French Nash-Taylor, holding a crimson Juicy Couture: The Juicy girl who borrows her husband’s woven skirts and trousers, lace and hammered velvet. silk crepe gown with a tucked went on a bravado-filled romp clothes.” That was Marcia while a dose of luxe came via Her finale, a paillette-covered shoulder and cut-out back — for fall, packing her bags with Patmos’ idea behind her M. a reversible shearling vest, a bronze gown, showed the two details they plan on making tailored jackets, bohemian silk Patmos collection, which fox-fur coat and leather details promise one hopes to see from signatures. The collection was dresses, trendy denim and, of combined Forties men’s wear on jackets. a new designer. 8 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 WWD.COM Worthington Revamps Image Yoox Revenues Top $500M more natural looking — glamour. lations and latest technologies. revenues totaling 262 million By SAMANTHA CONTI “We think it’s a bit more on trend, Feeney is taking the brand up- By EMILY BACKUS euros, or $353.7 million. Its and we wanted Alice because she market as part of an overarching multibrand business includes LONDON — British actress lives between London and L.A., strategy to offer “premium prod- MILAN — Yoox Group on Yoox.com, Thecorner.com and Alice Eve will appear in the she’s in her 30s — and she’s an ucts at affordable prices. That is Wednesday reported pre- Shoescribe.com. launch campaign for the newly intelligent woman,” said Feeney the future,” she said. liminary 2012 net revenues Marchetti added that early revamped and upgraded of the Oxford University gradu- The Salon at Home range of 375.9 million euros, or investment in smartphones Charles Worthington Salon ate. Feeney added the Charles originally launched in 1995, and $508.6 million, with 29 percent and tablets is paying off as at Home hair-care collection, Worthington team chose not to this latest iteration contains growth over 2011. traffic through mobile chan- WWD has learned. The ac- airbrush Alice’s unusual eyes — a mix of longtime hero prod- For the first time in Yoox’s his- nels gathers steam. tress, who has a leading role in the left is blue, while the right is ucts such as the Miracle Repair tory, net revenues in the fourth “In the Christmas month the upcoming film “Star Trek green — in order to show that the Elixir Oil, which protects hair quarter of 2012 exceeded 100 mil- alone, visits from these chan- Into Darkness,” was from styling damage, lion euros, or $135 million. nels accounted for around shot by the London- and new formula- Yoox founder and chief 25 percent of total traffic,” based fashion pho- tions such as Longer executive officer Federico Marchetti said. tographer Liz Collins, and Stronger Hair Marchetti said that cultivating The United States was the and the mood is old Masque, which re- the group’s monobrand busi- company’s number-one mar- Hollywood, red-car- duces hair breakage; ness, which includes the set- ket, according to Marchetti. pet glamour. The cam- Split Ends Binder, and up and management of online North America accounted for paign will break in the Volume & Bounce stores for leading global fash- 21.7 percent of the group’s the U.K. in June, and range, which contains ion and luxury brands, was a 2012 net sales, whereas will later be rolled out collagen and helps strategic factor. Europe, excluding Italy, ac- internationally. hair to appear thicker. Marchetti said that “2012 counted for 47.9 percent. Worthington and Eve All of the products are was a particularly important Yoox’s home turf proved to will launch the new col- Alice Eve for color-coded according year for Yoox. On the one hand, be its most difficult market. lection today at a tea at Worthington. to hair type. our multibrand business line Despite a 12 percent upturn London’s Savoy Hotel, Worthington, who continued along its path of in the fourth quarter, thanks where Worthington is operates three salons sustained growth, while on the to a successful Christmas cam- operating a VIP Style Suite as the collection is all about individual, in London, calls the collection “a other, we further consolidated paign and new e-commerce official hair stylist to the British attainable glamour rather than lovely wardrobe of hair care with the foundations for the group’s consumers, net sales in Italy Academy Film Awards — Britain’s computer-generated perfection. a huge breadth of product,” that long-term growth in the mono- grew just 2.4 percent in 2012. answer to the Oscars. The new Salon at Home col- allows a woman to change her brand business line.” Michelle Feeney, chief ex- lection features 53 products and style completely from one day to Yoox’s monobrand ecutive officer of the beauty di- will be sold exclusively at 1,200 the next. He said the stylists in business soared to vision of PZ Cussons, the British Boots stores starting in May. The his salons will be using the prod- 113.9 million euros, company that owns the Charles core shampoo and conditioning ucts on customers, and for the or $153.8 million, in Worthington brand, said that she range will have a retail price of BAFTAs. The line is set to gen- 2012, up 45.3 percent wanted to break away from the about 6 pounds, or $9.40 at cur- erate first-year retail revenues over 2011. Monobrand long, bouncy, fussed-over manes rent exchange, and prices are 5 of more than 10 million, or $15.7 represented 30.3 per- that are common in hair-care ads, to 15 percent higher than before, million, and that figure is set to cent of the group’s net and showcase a polished — but reflecting higher-quality formu- double by year two. revenues in 2012, com- pared to 26.9 percent in 2011. The company’s Suit Targets Asian Apparel Makers better-established multibrand busi- from children’s clothing to tex- 2012, the alliance said 77 percent ness experienced By KATHLEEN E. tiles for home furnishings. The of software on personal comput- slower double-digit MCLAUGHLIN California suit says paying the ers was pirated, compared with growth of 23.1 per- costs for legal software can an average of 42 percent world- cent, with 2012 net The U.S. is Yoox’s number-one market. BEIJING — An innovative in- make a real difference in a diffi- wide. That’s an improvement tellectual property rights law- cult industry. It says, since 2010, over years past, when the rate suit against garment makers in the Ningbo companies shipped was well above 90 percent. China and India is causing some 713,000 pounds of apparel prod- Switching to legal software consternation in the business ucts into California, while the will be a pricy proposition for True Religion Ups Forecast here, with industry insiders and Indian company imported 19,000 companies not in compliance, analysts wondering whether it is pounds into the state. but analysts are warning that percent of revenues from 64.1 the start of a tough new trend. “When overseas companies exporters must play by interna- By ARNOLD J. KARR percent in the 2011 period. On Jan. 24, California pirate software used in apparel tional rules or face similar law- Same-store sales in the U.S. Attorney General Kamala D. design, such as Adobe Photoshop suits from the U.S. SHARES OF True Religion retail segment rose 1.5 percent Harris filed lawsuits against or other back-office software, Xiao Doama, a well-known Apparel Inc. advanced in after- for the quarter, lower than the 2.7 two large apparel companies such as Microsoft Office, they IT analyst and blogger in China, hours trading Wednesday fol- percent gain for the entire year. — one in Ningbo, China, the obtain critical short-term advan- said he believes the California lowing the Los Angeles-based After opening 27 stores other in India — over alleged tage over their American com- case could have larger impli- premium jeanswear brand’s over the course of 2012, five of unfair trade practices. Harris’ petitors by not paying licensing cations in China. Certainly, he report of lower fourth-quarter them in the year’s final quar- claims focus on a new lever: the fees to software developers,” the said, it is something for compa- earnings that surpassed Wall ter, True Religion ended the companies’ use of pirated, unli- California suit says. “…overseas nies here to watch. Street’s estimates and upbeat year with 122 stores in the U.S. censed software in conducting apparel companies thereby gain “This is a big warning for this guidance for the new year. and 30 in international mar- their business. By not paying a substantial and unfair cost ad- industry,” he said. “It’s hard to The company said its stra- kets. The cost of store open- for properly licensed computer vantage in an industry character- say whether other manufactur- tegic review was continuing ings was cited as among the operating systems and critical ized by very thin margins.” ers in China will also be sued.” but offered no details about causes of a 20.9 percent in- software, the suit says, the com- Wang Rui, information tech- But, he explained, this law- strategic alternatives being crease in fourth-quarter sell- panies built an unfair trade ad- nology director for Ningbo suit has opened the door to considered, including a pos- ing, general and administra- vantage over homegrown com- Beyond Fashion, said the com- that distinct possibility. In an sible sale of the firm. tive costs, to $62.7 million. An panies in California. pany now uses legally licensed essay on the case, Xiao noted For the three months ended increase in the company’s ef- “Companies across the globe software across the board. Wang that a Thai seafood importer Dec. 31, the firm reported net fective tax rate also depressed should be on notice that they said Ningbo Beyond is in negoti- was fined $10,000 last fall by income of $13.8 million, or 53 quarterly earnings. will be held accountable in ations involving the suit, but he Massachusetts in a similar case cents a diluted share, 4.6 per- The company initiated 2013 California for stealing our intel- would not elaborate on details. over the use of pirated software. cent below the $14.5 million, or guidance for EPS of between lectual property,” Harris said. “We are trying to maintain In China, the scope of the prob- 57 cents, recorded in the final $1.89 and $1.95, above the con- “This is an anticompetitive communications,” he said. lem and use of illegal software quarter of 2011. On an adjusted sensus estimate for the year practice which harms our state’s But the case could have is likely much larger. basis, eliminating costs associ- of $1.86, and first-quarter EPS economy and is illegal,” she much wider implications in “Access to overseas mar- ated with exploration of strate- guidance of between 33 and 35 continued. “These lawsuits go China, where pirated software kets…attach[es] great impor- gic options, earnings per share cents, below the Wall Street es- after overseas companies whose is a matter of course. Although tance to the protection of in- were 55 cents, 2 cents above the timate of 38 cents. The upside unlawful actions are eroding tech companies say the situa- tellectual property rights,” he consensus estimate of analysts. surprise for the year helped California’s garment industry tion has improved somewhat in wrote. “If you want to enter the Revenues for the quar- push shares of True Religion and placing California compa- recent years, operating systems international market, it is nec- ter advanced 14.8 percent to up $1.25, or 5.3 percent, to $25 nies who legally pay for comput- like Windows are routinely pi- essary to regulate your behavior, $137 million from $119.4 mil- in the early portion of after- er software at a disadvantage.” rated and sold without license and respect the various aspects lion in the prior-year period. hours trading after they’d fin- Specifically, the suit named fees, along with all other types of intellectual property rights.” Advances were led by TR’s in- ished Wednesday’s trading ses- Pratibha Syntex Ltd. of India of computer software used in the In the Ningbo case, the com- ternational sales, up 27.8 per- sion at $23.75, up 31 cents, or and Ningbo Beyond Home course of doing business. pany has been accused specifi- cent to $24.2 million, with U.S. 1.3 percent. Textile Co. Ltd., a large appar- According to the Business cally of using pirated Microsoft consumer direct sales ahead For the full year, net income el maker in China with nearly Software Alliance, which tracks software worth an estimated 11.8 percent to $86.4 million grew 2.3 percent to $46 million, 20,000 employees and a num- the piracy issue worldwide, $351,000. The suit also said the and U.S. wholesale business or $1.82 a diluted share, while ber of subsidiary companies China has come into greater company has used illegal copies rising 14.1 percent to $25.5 mil- revenues bounded 11.3 percent that manufacture everything compliance in recent years. In of Abode software to profit. lion. Gross margin rose to 64.3 to $467.3 million. FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA MEN’S WEAR SUMMIT -!2#(   s .9#

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DOUG EWERT KEVIN CARRIGAN THE MEN’S DURAND GUION CALVIN KLEIN INC. WEARHOUSE INC. MACY’S

NICKELSON WOOSTER ERIC JENNINGS MICHAEL WILLIAMS J.C. PENNEY SAKS FIFTH AVENUE A CONTINUOUS LEAN COMPANY INC.

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ence,” she said, adding that she will be shooting a mix of brands, some of which

Net-a-porter Broadening Its Scope are not stocked on Net-a-porter. “We have an extraordinary customer {Continued from page one} a blend of the old and the new, and the base and we have to make sure we are The Collections Special showcases fash- shopability really inspires me,” said Tess looking after their needs, and that means ion shoots by Roversi, David Bellamere Macleod Smith, vice president, media and bringing in the best of everything out and Liz Collins. publishing, of the Net-a-porter Group. She there,” said Yeomans. “And I do think The 104-page Collections Special, said the aim is to inspire the consumer there is a place for a new global magazine, which will be sent out next week, focuses from the very beginning of her journey — a slice of international culture and style.” on the spring collections, and has been and follow her all the way to the end. Macleod Smith said customers will be printed in English, French, German and Going forward, Macleod Smith said able to shop the new print title via an app. simplified Chinese to coincide with Net’s she’s excited by the idea of publishing Although she declined to give details, she multilingual Web sites that will launch “anytime, anywhere,” and said already said the app will be planted inside the later this month. 30 percent of Net-a-porter’s sales come print magazine and “will service readers’ The Collections·· Special will go to from mobile smartphones. She said, needs. The aim is to make the app fit nice- more than 100,000 top customers who going forward, there will be editorial in- ly into women’s lives. It’s not gimmicky, have been identified as particular lovers novations for the mobile and tablet. and it will speak to women.” of print. Advertisers in The Collections Macleod Smith, formerly group pub- While the team is still working on the Special include Valentino, Gucci, lishing director at the Hearst Corp. in name of the new, 300-page glossy maga- Michael Kors, Donna Karan, Calvin London, joined Net-a-porter a year ago, zine, Macleod Smith said it is likely that Klein, Alexander McQueen, Roberto and has a group level role, overseeing the frequency will be four to six issues a Cavalli and Isabel Marant. the publishing activities of its men’s year. “We are going to be much smarter As of this spring, The Edit, too, will site Mr Porter, and the off-price site The about when we publish,” she said, but de- be published in French, German and Outnet, in addition to Net-a-porter. clined to give target circulation figures, Mandarin, in addition to English. So far, Mr Porter already publishes The cover price, or advertisers who will be in some 1.5 million customers have signed Journal, an online magazine that comes out the launch issue, although she said the lat- The Edit, Net-a-porter’s weekly online magazine. ter will be similar to those who are taking pages in The Edit. This is a new model for publishing, theme is The New Simplicity, includes Macleod Smith also said they are in the an interview with the Hong Kong-based process of hiring a distributor, and added Yana Peel, a venture philanthropist and that it’s likely she will be hiring a few U.S.- a blend of the old and the new, and the the chief executive officer of Intelligence based salespeople beginning in April. Squared, and a story on the Man Ray Macleod Smith said one thing is for shopability really inspires me. show that kicks off today at the National sure: The Net-a-porter customer might Portrait Gallery in London. live much of her life online, but she’s still — TESS MACLEOD SMITH, NET-A-PORTER GROUP Fashion shoots feature an edit of in love with the printed page. clothing and merchandise available “When I first arrived here, I really up to get an e-mail of The Edit sent to 52 weeks a year, and a print title called The on Net-a-porter, and in the future there wanted to see how our customers were them each week, although anyone can Mr Porter Post, which is set to increase its will be other elements, such as exclusive consuming fashion content, and I found access the title on the site. frequency to six times a year, and more than music tracks that make their debut in the they are heavy consumers of print maga- The new editorial efforts — digital double its print run to 130,000. weekly magazine. zines,” she said. and print — have been created by Lucy Yeomans said her vision for The Edit But perhaps the most ambitious proj- “These are women in their mid- to Yeomans, editor in chief of Net-a-porter. was a magazine “for and about women ect is the new print title, which will be late 30s, who are buying four to five mag- com and former editor in chief of British with great style and great stories,” a title sold by subscription and on newsstand azines per month. They love print and Harper’s Bazaar, and will offer readers with international resonance. “We want beginning in the fall. Yeomans said it is they love a global edit. They’re buying ti- the opportunity to shop from their pages. to be for the global, international·· woman. evolving on a daily basis. She said it will tles like Japanese Harper’s Bazaar along The Net-a-porter homepage will also We’re not putting up geographical barri- showcase fashion “in context” alongside with French Vogue. And it was clear have a new, updated look starting today. ers,” she said. stories on art, culture and politics. “Print they want us to communicate with them “This is a new model for publishing, This week’s issue of The Edit, whose allows us to offer a more in-depth experi- through all platforms,” she said.

said. “Here, I think it’s more difficult in that MORE TRIMMING BACK: Lucky is the latest MEMO PAD this is a broader magazine. It’s a culturally Condé Nast title to trim its frequency, sophisticated and more tolerant audience.” cutting back to 10 issues a year from 12. FIRST T-IMER: Deborah Needleman’s first The magazine will look very different The move follows Condé Nast’s decision issue of T: The New York Times Style from Singer’s T. It has a larger trim last week to cut the frequency of W to 10 Magazine will make its debut Feb. 17. size, heavier paper stock, as well as from 12, and the two titles join stablemates The cover is Lee Radziwill. Needleman a redesign aesthetic that ditched the Details and Teen Vogue. Brides also said the idea to do a story on Radziwill Gothic typeface of the old magazine recently cut its publishing schedule in half. began while she was still at The Wall Street and replaced it with a custom design by For Lucky, the move is part of Journal. She’d met Radziwill last April at a creative director Patrick Li. an ongoing reinvention of the title design conference in Morocco and, though “I feel the Times is such a strong brand under editor in chief Brandon Holley. the aging socialite and sister of Jacqueline that it can handle under its umbrella a Last month, in an unorthodox move, Kennedy doesn’t sit for many interviews, kind of distinctive magazine and that it Condé replaced publisher Marcy Bloom she agreed to a profile with WSJ. doesn’t need to typographically reference with Gillian Gorman Round, a former Radziwill had also been in the Gothic type,” she says. beauty industry executive with no negotiations with other publications Needleman has also created new prior experience in publishing who — Vanity Fair and W, among them. sections. The front of book now starts joined Condé a year earlier to lead Needleman promised her the cover, with what Needleman calls a style op-ed, so-called brand development. Round, which the other magazines, dependent “a thinky piece about something in the named general manager in charge of on newsstand, couldn’t afford to do. zeitgeist,” she said. In the first issue, Suzy both business and editorial at Lucky, When Needleman left the Journal, Menkes writes on the new breed of fashion is now tasked with finding a new she took the Radziwill idea with her. bloggers. There’s also “This and That,” a business model that places greater Lee Radziwill on the cover of T. Needleman said Radziwill threatened to news digest that is a mini version of the emphasis on e-commerce. pull out altogether if the story wasn’t with Coppola, Arianna Huffington, William Lauder, magazine. The creative team behind it, A spokeswoman said the frequency her, even if it was at another magazine and Francesco Vezzoli. Holding a party while consisting of many faces from the change is part of that “smart new business — and, luckily, one that doesn’t have to so soon after the Times lost about 30 Journal, also includes the well-regarded model” and will enable Lucky to reallocate worry about newsstand sales either. employees in buyouts and layoffs might stylist Joe McKenna, who proved useful in revenues to invest in other ventures. “This “She just said, ‘I’m doing this story seem questionable, but Denise Warren, chief securing a profile of Azzedine Alaïa. strategic evolution ensures the healthy with you because I’m doing this story advertising officer for the Times, said it’s While Needleman’s first T is called growth of our core print business, as we with you,’” Needleman said. a vital way to recognize advertisers, who “the fashion issue,” it also marks a new work towards a streamlined multiplatform It’s unusual for a departing editor are, after all, the main reason T exists. T era in the life of the supplement in that model,” Round said. in chief to also pack up with a story will be up 23 percent in ad pages to 132.5. she has been granted her demand for In January, Condé said Lucky would that had been conceived for her old For Needleman, the party will bring to a more general interest magazine that have a new e-commerce platform employer, but Needleman’s decision an end a dance that began in September will come out 13 times a year. Some in the near future though it didn’t shows her competitive drive. when she was pursued simultaneously by speculate that with a stronger T, the divulge any details about that plan. The The Radziwill cover and inside Robert Thomson, her old boss, who was eager weekly magazine is in danger of losing spokeswoman said Wednesday they had photos were shot by Mario Sorrenti to keep her at the Journal; Jill Abramson, advertisers. But Needleman feels both no announcements to make on that front. and come with a video interview by who needed to replace Sally Singer at T, and magazines have different missions. Lucky lost 15 percent of its newsstand Radziwill friend Sofia Coppola. It’s part of even a dark horse, Hearst’s David Carey, who “We are about the culture of style. sales in the first half of 2012, the most a relaunch of the Times’ most lucrative wanted her among his stable of editors. We’re not doing ethics or public policy recent data available, according to magazine, and the newspaper publisher When Abramson approached her, or economics or foreign policy,” she said. Alliance for Audited Media, and 20 wants to make sure Needleman’s T gets Needleman already knew what her “So much of what is interesting to me percent in ad pages for a total of 894, attention. The Times has scheduled answer would be: “I had a gut reaction, about fashion and style is not the surface according to Media Industry Newsletter. launch parties during the fashion weeks like, yes,” she said. decoration, but the culture of fashion, This year, it will combine in New York, Milan and Paris. “It was a challenge. I knew exactly what the business behind it, the craftsmanship December/January and June/July, and The New York party today at the I wanted to do at the Journal, which was behind it. I’m looking at fashion from release a special interest publication, Grand Central Oyster Bar will be hosted to bring fashion to a nonfashion audience all these different angles and trying to similar to 2012’s “The Ultimate Style by Times chairman Arthur Sulzberger Jr. and to make fashion interesting and understand it as a culture phenomenon Guide,” with a second SIP to be and is expected to draw guests including desirable to that audience,” Needleman and business.” — ERIK MAZA released in 2014. — E.M. WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 11 WWD.COM

DOUBLE SPEAK: Pamela Golbin, chief curator Having made trunks for the first of fashion and textiles at Les Arts motorcars, Vuitton maintains its ties with Décoratifs, will be outnumbered this the automotive world through such awards, FASHION SCOOPS spring when she returns to the French rallies and other prestigious events. Institute Alliance Française for her next Burke confessed he was smitten with round of Fashion Talks. the night’s Concept Award winner: a THE LAW MOVES SLOWLY: In a case fall with eight collections, That’s because she’s chosen a couple sinuous Peugeot Onyx diesel-electric hybrid stretching back to 2004, Gucci including House of Waris, of designing duos. Humberto Leon and Carol with gleaming copper body panels and a won a legal dispute with Prada Pamela Love, Creatures Lim, founders of Opening Ceremony and minimalist interior in oatmeal-colored felt. earlier this week as the Court of Comfort and Tanya creative directors of Kenzo, kick off the “When can I buy it?” he asked Peugeot of Florence determined that Taylor. Partners Shira Sue series at Florence Gould Hall in New executives Jean-Pierre Ploué and Gilles Vidal. Prada’s allegations of tortious Carmi, Dan Otero and Rob York on March 14 with Isabel and Ruben “In 40 years’ time,” they shot back. interference were unfounded in Spira opened Launch Toledo doing the honors on March 18. Turns out a designer trained in Gucci’s 2001 acquisition of Italian Collective six years ago Indian-born designer Naeem Khan will be fashion came up with the color and footwear manufacturer Regain, a and have worked with solo for his talk on March 27. trim concepts for the Onyx, which also company based in Montegranaro. labels such as Monique Golbin notes that what unites the five boasts a dashboard made of compressed In 2004, Prada filed suit Pean, Philip Crangi and American designers “is that they have newspapers — Dutch ones, in fact. against both Guccio Gucci and Gucci Lemlem by Liya Kebede. all successfully launched their own The Vuitton event coincides with a Group Italia Holding, asking for 25 They have hired Anja Tyson, independent brands.” — M.S. vintage auto fair called Retro Mobile at the million euros, or about $34 million who has worked in sales at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, which kicks at current exchange, in damages. Suno and Opening Ceremony, HOT WHEELS: Former race-car driver off today and runs through Sunday. — M.S. Following its decision, the court as director of sales. Charles Nearburg and his wife, Karen Miller, determined that Prada must cover The Lady — JESSICA IREDALE took to the stage at The Pre Catelan in all litigation fees and expenses Arpels Paris Tuesday night to scoop up a Louis related to the case, which were not Ballerine PAS DE DEUX: Benjamin Vuitton Classic Award — the Concours revealed. — CYNTHIA MARTENS Enchantée Millepied is walking in the prize — for Nearburg’s gleaming red 1962 watch. footsteps of the illustrious Ferrari 250 GTO. DUNHILL TAPS RAY: John Ray has joined George Balanchine by Quizzing the couple, Vuitton chief Dunhill as a creative consultant, creating a ballet in collaboration with executive officer Michael Burke asked Miller looking after the brand’s entire range of Place Vendôme jeweler and watch if jealousy ever flared over her husband’s clothing, accessories and leather goods, maker Van Cleef & Arpels. devotion to his hobby. “No, it’s his first a company spokeswoman said. She said The dancer and choreographer, love — cars,” Miller said to a round of Ray’s first full collection will be for who is married to actress Natalie knowing chuckles amidst the enthusiasts spring 2014. It is understood that Ray Portman, will stage “Reflections” with in attendance. Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean 45.5 mm has been working with Dunhill since his collective, L.A Dance Project, “Sochi 2014” limited-edition watch. September. Ray has been keeping a low from May 23 to 25 at the Théâtre du profile since stepping down as Gucci’s Châtelet in Paris, Van Cleef & Arpels CALLING TIME: Omega is getting an early men’s wear designer in 2006. In 2004, said Wednesday. start on the race to the Olympics Winter Ray became part of a design triumvirate Artist Barbara Kruger will design sets Games in the Russian city of Sochi. The at Gucci following the departure of Tom and costumes, with composer David official Olympic timekeeper has created Ford as creative director. He worked Lang in charge of music. two special editions of its Seamaster alongside Frida Giannini, who is now the The house has long-standing links Planet Ocean watch to commemorate the brand’s sole creative director, and the to the world of ballet, symbolized by event, scheduled for Feb. 7 to Feb. 23, designer Alessandra Facchinetti, who has its Ballerina brooches, first launched 2014. Both the men’s and women’s version her own line of clothing. — SAMANTHA in the Forties. In 1967, Balanchine will be available in a limited edition CONTI AND MILES SOCHA created “Jewels,” a ballet inspired by of 2,014 pieces. Details on price and emeralds, rubies and diamonds, after availability were yet to be confirmed. GQ TEAMS WITH MR PORTER: GQ has meeting with Claude Arpels. The men’s wristwatch comes with a tapped Mr Porter for the next iteration That ballet was last performed in Michael Burke, Charles Nearburg, Karen Miller and 45.5 mm stainless steel case and matching of its GQ Selects program, following 2012 to celebrate the reopening of Christian Philippsen. bracelet. It features a black ceramic bezel previous partnerships with Nordstrom the Bolshoi Theater in Moscow. Last with minutes lacquered in blue and red, and the now-defunct Park & Bond. For month Van Cleef & Arpels unveiled in homage to the colors of the Russian seven months beginning with the April the Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée Federation flag. The case back is embossed issue, a selection of items in the pages watch, featuring a ballerina whose with the “Sochi 2014” Olympic logo and of GQ will be highlighted for sale on Mr tutu moves like wings, at the Salon engraved with the limited-edition number. Porter. The multichannel initiative will International de la Haute Horlogerie The women’s version features a 37.5 live on linked pages of gq.com and the in Geneva. — JOELLE DIDERICH mm stainless steel case but with a white luxury e-tailer, with a promotional page ceramic bezel and a white crocodile in the print magazine driving traffic MARATHON MAN: Franco-German leather strap. It also features the colored to the respective sites. “The people at network Arte is inviting fashion STEPHANE MURATET PHOTOS BY minute markers on the bezel and the logo- Mr Porter create their own editorial enthusiasts to curl up in front of the Cars on display at the Louis Vuitton Classic Awards. embossed case back. — J.D. and are big on service, which is what television in the midst of Paris Fashion we love at GQ, so the DNAs are very Week for a marathon of programs compatible,” said Jim Moore, creative about Karl Lagerfeld. The highlight of director of GQ. The two editorial teams, the March 2 lineup is a new 52-minute including Mr Porter editor in chief documentary by Loïc Prigent entitled Jeremy Langmead, will select between “Karl Lagerfeld se dessine” (“Karl 10 and 20 items a month to showcase Lagerfeld draws himself ” in English). on GQ Selects, with social media and In it the multitasking designer shares videos enriching the discovery and his passion for illustration, sketching For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. shopping experiences. — DAVID LIPKE everything from his childhood home in Germany to his impressions of Paris COLLECTIVE FORCE: Launch Collective, when he first arrived with a mission to the New York agency that offers conquer the fashion world. business strategy and financial The program is bookended with a Spaces management for fledgling designers, new, shorter edit of Prigent’s popular is extending its reach to include a full- “Signé Chanel” saga from 2005 and COMMERCIAL service sales showroom. Called The his “The Day Before: Fendi,” a 2009 REAL ESTATE Collective, the showroom is located film showing the Roman house getting New York Embroidery Studio Embroidery, Laser Cutting & at 495 Broadway and will open for ready for the runway. — M.S. Embellishments Full service shop to the trade. High quality finish. 212-971-9101 or [email protected]

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(800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] 9LQFH&DPXWRFRP 9LQFH&DPXWRFRP 9LQFH&DPXWRFRP MAN OF THE WEEK PLUS: Coach is o!ering a capsule collection of leather Joe Cool goods adorned with Super Bowl MVP Joe Flacco had a nearly designs by artist flawless playo! run. He was spot-on when Craig Costello, aka it came to style as well. Page MW7 Krink. Page MW7

February 7, 2013

“American RUNWAY READY “Elegance and Sartorialism.” — TOMMY CFDA in Talks toughness.” HILFIGER — BILLY REID For Stand-alone Men’s Week Advanstar and GQ also included in discussions.

by DAVID LIPKE

COULD NEW YORK men’s wear stand on its own during a separate fashion week? That’s the question being bandied about in high-level talks hosted by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. The discus- sions follow long-running complaints by designers, retailers and editors that men’s shows in New York get short shrift by at- taching themselves to the women’s shows in February and September. With the buzzed-about launch last June of London Collections: Men, New York is now the only American Vibe major fashion capital without a stand-alone showcase for men’s wear designers. From “modern-day “Over the years, a number of industry Elie Tahari to “roughwear” at people have talked to the CFDA about the value of a dedicated men’s week. In recent Todd Snyder, men’s designers are months, some key people with a deep and sincere interest in that idea have come to- expressing their distinct takes gether as a group to explore that possibili- ty,” confirmed Steven Kolb, chief executive on city chic during New York Fashion officer of the CFDA, when asked about the talks. “We are looking at the potential of a Week. For more designer inspirations, men’s week and how that might fit into the see pages MW4 to MW6. global men’s calendar.” The CFDA has hosted two meetings on the subject at its headquarters in the past two months, with interested parties that have included Tom Florio, ceo of trade show producer Advanstar Fashion Group; men’s editors, including Jim Moore, creative director of GQ, and KCD, the fashion show production and public- ity agency. Kolb emphasized that the meetings re- main in the planning stages, but the pos- sibility exists of moving forward with a men’s fashion week either this summer or in early 2014. “It’s the right people having the right conversations. There’s a lot of discussion and evaluation and research. We’re looking at the business model, what the dates could be and whether it will at- tract the right numbers and level of de- signers and audience,” said Kolb. “There seems to be a real desire to map it out.” This season, Rag & Bone opted to get an early jump on the official New York calendar with its men’s collection, stag- ing a runway show on Jan. 30. Marcus Wainwright, cofounder of the label with David Neville, pointed out that the New York shows fall way behind the retail buying calendar. “If we show during women’s fashion week, then it misses the men’s market. For the fall season, the timing is OK, but for spring it’s a joke in September,” he noted. In the past, he said, the duo had showed “DRIVE.” men’s and women’s on the runway togeth- er, but in an attempt to let the men’s line — MICHAEL KORS “live on its own,” they opted to separate it

MICHAEL KORS PHOTO BY KEITH LEVIT PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES; BILLY REID FROM HARLEY DAVIDSON ARCHIVE REID FROM HARLEY DAVIDSON KEITH LEVIT PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES; BILLY PHOTO BY MICHAEL KORS {Continued on page MW7} MW2 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 Men’s Week Gieves & Hawkes Adds to Team Seven For All Mankind by JULIA NEEL LONDON — Gieves & Hawkes has added three new members to its senior management team. Ray Clacher is now managing director of the brand worldwide; Jason Basmajian has officially joined as Expands Men’s for Fall creative director after a six-year stint at Brioni, and Simon Baker has taken on the role of marketing director. by ARNOLD J. KARR lean decisively toward comfort. 2013 began in ways that make her “We want to be Britain’s leading men’s brand — make Gieves & “The male consumer is all about optimistic about Seven’s prospects. Hawkes relevant again,” said Clacher, who has been a part of the SEVEN FOR ALL MANKIND is put- touch and feel,” said the Seven “Last year was a good year for G&H team for more than 10 years in roles including retail direc- ting its muscle behind the man for fall. president. “You can see it in the the premium denim market, and tor and commercial director. For the past few years, he has led the The Los Angeles-based premium way men shop. Nine times out of 10, it was a better-than-good year for brand’s expansion into China, where there are now 112 stores, with jeanswear brand, the cash cow in they’re touching the clothes they’re Seven,” she told WWD. “The indi- 12 more to open this year. VF Corp.’s contemporary brands co- considering buying, like they’re cations for 2013 are strong both “The first thing we need to do is get London right in the next 12 alition, which also houses Splendid broadcasting to the market, ‘I want for denim and for contemporary, months and reinvest in the domestic market. We’ve been too elitist and Ella Moss, is introducing a to be comfortable.’” which, by definition, means new in the U.K. We have to get back to middle England,” Clacher told range of men’s jeans for the season Luxe Performance addresses and modern. Contemporary is WWD. After that, his plan is to “get people talking,” which is where emphasizing fit and comfort. It’s this priority with four washes, trending extremely well through- Baker’s skills will come into play. Then will come a runway show backing that effort, dubbed Luxe ranging from the deep Blue Ice, out the market, and men’s is during London Collections: Men, probably in June but certainly Performance, with a smaller range treated with a resin rinse, to the next January, which is where Basmajian comes in. of cashmere-blend jeans, called more faded Pale Ale, hand-sanded “Everything is happening in London now,” the creative direc- Cashmere Denim, and the designa- following a bleach wash. To live up tor said. “I have spent a lot of time here over the last 18 months tion of a global men’s footwear li- to its hangtag billing of “remark- because it’s all heating up.” Clacher spent considerable time woo- censee, GMI USA Corp. able comfort inside and out,” the ing the designer to G&H, where he is bringing more than 20 years Men’s constitutes about 40 per- insides of all the denim interpreta- experience from labels including Calvin Klein and Donna Karan. cent of Seven’s revenues. Barry tions are brushed. “I don’t look at this as a re-branding exercise. I see it as an el- Miguel, president of the brand, Luxe Performance jeans are evation of the brand, an escalation, returning it to its rightful place, characterizes the male customer as expected to retail for $189 to back to a much more luxurious feel,” said Basmajian. “This is an “a fashionable regular guy, but not $198, while the smaller Cashmere international brand with a British accent. We don’t want to lose quite as fashionable as the women’s Denim range, manufactured with that. We have three Royal warrants and we’re the only Savile Row Seven customer.” cotton, a touch of cashmere and brand with a global presence.” As the organization sought to about 10 percent spandex, will sell That global presence is set to grow. “The U.S. is our first target,” live up to its parent company’s em- for $248 to $278. said Clacher. “I have spoken to Mr. Tommy Hilfiger [who owns a part phasis on innovative, functional First deliveries are slated for of British Heritage Brands, the company behind Belstaff and Kent & fashion for fall 2012, it developed August with initial distribution des- Curwen] a number of times, and there is potential for a collaboration Slim Illusion, a women’s program tined for Seven’s 32 full-price stores there.” He also hopes to expand into Russia and the Middle East. that combined the denim mar- in the U.S. and Canada to be followed All this while bringing manufacturing back to Britain. “Twenty- ket’s fascination with color and its by its wholesale accounts. Seven’s three percent is already made in the U.K., but we need more good search for fabrics that would pro- products are carried in about 1,000 Seven For British factories. They are there, we just need to find them and vide tight fits with strong recovery. wholesale doors overall, about 300 of All Mankind work with them. We want to be a sustainable company that’s 100 For Luxe Performance, the fit which carry its men’s products. is unveiling percent made in the U.K.,” said Clacher. He added that he wants to and recovery emphasis remains, The men’s footwear license cov- a line of avoid licensing, except in the case of watches or fragrance, where but has been superseded by a ers shoes and boots, in dressy and men’s jeans the company is “not experts.” focus on comfort with exclusive casual styles, and supplements an for fall. Attention will be focused in the next year on No. 1 Savile Row, fabrics from an Italian mill com- existing license for women’s foot- where Clacher hopes to perfect the shopping experience at its retail prised of cotton, polyester and wear with Schwartz & Benjamin. absolutely leading the charge. store. There is currently scaffolding up around the building, where spandex. The company is keep- “We’re a contemporary brand, Looking at compound annual a full-scale refurbishment is under way, with the hopes of being ing the identity of the mill, which and we need to be of the moment, growth rates behind us and in completed in the summer. Two extra floors of office space have been developed special equipment and both in technical innovation and front of us, we’re all feeling very added, and the Gieves & Hawkes archive will be open to the public. new weave configurations, under with fashion,” Miguel said. “There good about contemporary.” In charge of marketing all this G&H activity is Baker, who joins wraps for now. are limits to what we can do. In The same goes for the nonden- from Scottish whisky distiller Whyte & Mackay, where he was global “This stretch component comes women’s, could we sell a crazy print im portions of Seven’s assortment, brands director. as close to perfect recovery as we’ve jean? No. But a plaid laser print which have been expanded to in- G&H was acquired by Trinity Ltd., the Hong Kong-based retailer seen — about 90 percent — and the sold well. In resin-coated denim, clude outerwear, wovens and knits of luxury men’s brands and part of the Li & Fung Group, in April growth factor, which causes stretch our men’s jackets did great, but our as Seven has built up its offerings, 2012. The brand has a history that dates back to 1771, when Thomas jeans to lose their shape, is just 1 pants didn’t.” in part to accommodate the multi- Hawkes set up as a cap-maker on London’s Brewer Street. It is cel- percent,” Miguel said. “We’re put- Citing figures from The NPD category needs of its own stores. ebrating its 100th anniversary this year. ting this out for fall in every one of Group showing dollar growth in Kellogg perceives a shift in our eight fits.” jeans above $100 at retail last year denim away from what she de- While female premium denim at 16 percent in women’s and 13 scribed as “color and snake and customers gravitate strongly toward percent in men’s, Susan Kellogg, back toward authentic. We have to Sean John Inks Footwear, NBA Deals fit in their quest for the perfect pair president of VF’s contemporary co- ship something that’s not in our cus- SEAN JOHN has signed a new footwear license with 2 Feet of jeans, their male counterparts alition, noted that 2012 ended and tomer’s closet.” Productions for casual and athletic shoes that will be in stores in July. The new Sean John footwear collection encompasses men’s and boys’ styles, including athletic-inspired high-tops, boots, chuk- kas and wing tips that will retail for $69 to $130. “We want to focus on the true Sean John customer. These are clean, Fossil Adds Swiss Men’s Watches easy sneakers and shoes that aren’t too complicated for sneakerheads,” by ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD in 60 Fossil stores globally. In Asia, the watches said Jeff Tweedy, president of Sean John. “It’s for a guy who wants a will be distributed in 19 doors, including in great sneaker. We’re styling them with our suits in our shops at Macy’s.” FOSSIL INC. is releasing its first Swiss men’s China, Malaysia, Korea, Japan, Singapore, The footwear will launch in 70 Macy’s doors and 10 FootAction watch collection this month, in the hopes of ex- Hong Kong and Macau, while in Europe, the stores. The Sean John brand is sold in more than 500 Macy’s doors, tending its reach to a higher-end consumer, watches will be in 17 locations, including which carries the brand exclusively in men’s sportswear. particularly in Asia. stores in Austria, Germany, Switzerland, Sean John footwear was previously licensed to Global Brand The collection, which will range from $695 France, Italy and the U.K. Marketing Inc. in 2007, but that deal ended several years ago, to $995 and include automatic watches and Fossil is also making a significant push in said Tweedy. chronographs, speaks to what Fossil deems a North America, where the watches will be “Sean John is among the most established contemporary men’s “growing demand” in Asia for luxe timepieces. available in 21 locations, including New York, wear brands in the marketplace,” said Udi Avshalom, chief executive In the past, Fossil has only carried mechani- Dallas, Miami, San Francisco, Houston, Las officer of New York-based 2 Feet Productions. The company owns cal watches with Japanese movements, which Vegas, Honolulu, Orlando and parts of Canada. and distributes the Gorilla and Recon footwear brands, and produc- retail from $95 to $295. The launch of the Swiss The clean yet sleek men’s collection, which is es footwear under license for Rocawear, Zoo York and Enyce. collection comes at a time when the brand’s retail made of stainless steel, rose gold or gold plating, In other Sean John news, the company, along with Macy’s, has footprint in Asia is at “critical mass,” according to comprises 14 styles and is a departure of sorts from inked a two-year marketing deal with the NBA that will kick off dur- Fossil executive vice president Tom Kennedy. the look of a typical Fossil watch, even though there ing NBA All-Star Game weekend in Houston on Feb. 16 and 17. The “We’ve opened a significant number of stores is a nod to vintage aviation and automobile dials. program, titled the “Entertainment Series Presented by Sean John in Japan, Korea, Singapore and Hong Kong,” “We wanted to show our design capabilities,” and Macy’s,” will showcase musical performers during the State A watch from he said, noting that in 2012 Fossil opened 16 Kennedy said, adding that the collection is aimed Farm All-Star Saturday Night festivities leading up to the game, as Fossil’s Swiss doors in the Asia-Pacific region. “In the past to target rival brands such as Citizen, Longines, well as during the pre-game introductions and collection. three years, we’ve worked to position Fossil as Hamilton, Tag Heuer, Seno, Oris, Breitling, halftime at the All-Star Game on Sunday. a lifestyle brand. We’ve had the ability to significantly Baume & Mercier and Rado. Through the year, Sean John and Macy’s expand our price point through other categories, now “This [men’s launch] is part of a two-pronged strat- will host in-store experiences with NBA play- it’s time to do it with watches.” egy,” he said, explaining that while the women’s Swiss ers from each event’s home market. Sean Fossil is focusing on the men’s market because, in Asia, collection is a “longer-term” project, the goal of this John and Macy’s will also invest in adver- the first watch purchase for the emerging middle class is launch is to broaden Fossil’s appeal to both new and tising in NBA game-day publications, typically a men’s timepiece. Kennedy said that “one in existing customers. digital media spends on nba.com four Swiss watches that are sold globally are sold in Asia,” “We view this as an opportunity to create a halo for the and television commercials on which makes the rollout potentially very lucrative. entire business and to show what is possible for the Fossil Sean John NBA TV and TNT leading up to The brand will roll out the watches, which include brand to execute,” he said. “This isn’t a replacement of is in a license with and during the All-Star Game. either a leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet, first our core business, it’s an extension of our portfolio.” 2 Feet Productions. — DAVID LIPKE

MW4 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 Men’s Week

“The pictures of Michael Caine by David Bailey and a trip to Oxford, England.” — FRANK MUYTJENS, J. CREW MEN’S Designer Inspirations The fall shows have descended upon New York, and there’s lots of excitement in store for men’s wear. Here, what is inspiring designers for next season. — LUIS CAMPUZANO

“Camouflage” — DANIEL SILVER AND STEVEN COX, PERRY ELLIS BY DUCKIE BROWN

“Modern- day military meets urban lifestyle.” — ELIE TAHARI

“ANALOG vs. DIGITAL. Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas explore the future by looking back into the past.” — YOHJI YAMAMOTO, Y-3 Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 MW5

“Fall 2013 explores contrasting narra- tives of the ‘future world’ depicted in the 1970s and ’80s books and movies. On one hand, copious illustrations and images implied that we would all be “ANDREW living today in a techno utopia, on the “BANG other hand a vision of broken techno- logical society, love and revenge; where BANG.” WYETH.” life fades, the vision dims. Ruined — MARK MCNAIRY, MARK MCNAIRY — MICHAEL BASTIAN dreams.” — STEFAN MILJANIC, GILDED AGE NEW AMSTERDAM

“Toughness and softness, strength and sensitivity. Edun Men FW13 reflects the modern- day biker in the American West, possessing subtle accents of Native American influences representing man, machine and “Italo Calvino.” — SIKI IM nature.” — RICKY HENDRY, EDUN MEN “Roughwear and fineries for the gentleman outlaw.” — TODD SNYDER “Green Forest.” — REMO RUFFINI, MONCLER GRENOBLE

“City League.” — DONNA KARAN, DKNY MEN MW6 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 Men’s Week

“HEAVY UNDER LIGHT.” — DANIEL SILVER AND STEVEN COX, DUCKIE BROWN

“Modern 2000 TOPHER WOOL, TASCHEN, Shackleton.” — CHRIS COX, NAUTICA

“This season, I was drawn to the music and imagery of the late 1960s post-bop era where reinterpretation of tradition through in- dividual expression pri- marily fascinated me. I explored this theory by experimenting with the detail and proportion of traditional men’s wear “Autumn/winter to make the collection 2013 is a focus modern and relevant.” on Berlin in the — STEVEN ALAN 1920s; specifically, German Expres- sionist film from that time, and this

interesting dark STELLA; FRANK TIM COPPENS, WOOL, CHRIS KEITH LEVIT PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES; SHADES OF GREY BY BY ESY A&M RECORDS; MICHAEL KORS creative force of energy that was behind it.” — ROBERT “Acid in GELLER “Classic American pastimes.” my heart.” — ARIEL AND SHIMON OVADIA, J. PRESS YORK STREET — TIM COPPENS

“In a way my SS13 collection inspired me to add more color and prints to the AW13 collection, something I’ve used sparingly in past autumn/winter col- lections. They all come together in a grunge-meets-athletic-outdoorsman sort of way.” — MICAH COHEN, SHADES “The Ninety-Nines.”

OF GREY BY MICAH COHEN — DAISUKE OBANA, N. HOOLYWOOD MARK MCNAIRY COURT BAILEY; DAVID J. CREW BY ARCHIVE; HARLEY DAVIDSON REID COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS; BILLY COURTESY ALL ARTWORK Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 MW7 Coach Launches Krink Collection CFDA Plots Potential GUYS LOOKING FOR a little street such as Curtis Kulig, Aiko and Kenneth cred with their Coach accessories may Cappello, testament to the mainstream- find it in a new capsule collection of ing of graffiti art. Men’s Fashion Week leather goods adorned with designs by Costello markets his own line of artist Craig Costello, aka Krink. premium art supplies — not necessar- {Continued from page MW1} show, and that’s a very different kettle of fish. Known for his drip and splatter ily for use as graffiti tools, he insists — I’m curious about it, but I can’t say we’re eager motifs, graffiti artist Costello has part- A Krink under the Krink name, this season. “It’s a hugely important part to jump on board. Duckie Brown shows fashion, nered with Coach on a line of bags, design for which is a portman- of our business and it’s where we started,” not clothing,” he explained. iPad sleeves, a zippered portfolio, Coach. teau of “KR” and Wainwright said. Advanstar, which operates the MAGIC mar- wallets and luggage tags that re- “ink.” The high-end Ralph Lauren regularly hosts informal sea- ketplace in Las Vegas and the Project men’s tail from $98 to $798. The markers and inks are sonal presentations in his New trade shows in Las Vegas and New collection will be sold at art suppli- York headquarters before the Rag & Bone York, could be a key supporter available on coach. ers like Pearl Paint kickoff of the runway shows. “I showed of a men’s fashion week in New com later this month and Blick, as well as would love to show on the run- early in York. Linking the two organiza- and in select Coach trendy shops such as way again. I’m thinking about it. I New York. tions could be helpful in drawing stores on March 1. Colette in Paris and can’t say I’m committed to it, but a large number of men’s buyers Costello, who was The Standard hotel it’s something that we thought and press to New York at the same born in New York and commissaries. about,” said Lauren last week. time. In Paris, for instance, the raised in Forest Hills, “I think the proj- Ralph Lauren last staged an Tranoï and Capsule trade shows Queens, has devel- ects we’ve worked on official men’s show in New York are timed to coincide with the oped a product-friend- show a constant evo- in 2007, but the designer is not men’s shows there. ly aesthetic since mak- lution of the brand. I convinced Manhattan is the way “There is so much great tal- ing a name for himself as don’t want to be held to a to go down the road. “We’re a ent being supported in women’s, a street artist with the tag “KR.” He’s singular vision or a singular definition. very international company now which is wonderful, but there is collaborated with dozens of brands, I like to be broad-based,” said Costello and our goal is to have more very little voice for men’s wear including Modernica, Nike, G-Shock, of his disparate projects, which all people around the world see the unless you’re one of the mega- Carhartt, Levi’s Japan, KidRobot and stem from his distinct graffiti aesthetic. brand,” he explained. brands,” said Advanstar’s Florio. InCase, to name a few. Last year, the After living in San Francisco — Without big men’s names “Early on, when I arrived [at East Village-themed Rattlecan res- where he tagged bus shelters with a like Ralph Lauren — which Advanstar], people would say taurant in The Venetian hotel in Las young Barry McGee, who has also since is rumored to be considering we don’t have something like the Vegas tapped Costello to help decorate risen to prominence — Costello moved showing in Paris this summer Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund sup- its walls, along with street art peers to New York in 1998 and began to devel- — or Calvin Klein and John porting men’s design. We have op his signature drip style around 2004. Varvatos, which both usually all this incredible talent in men’s “I had this home-made ink and I’d go show in Milan, it could be dif- wear that needs to be supported to a mailbox and the paint would drip. ficult to establish a center of and we’re trying to help.” Then I decided to take my name away gravity in New York. However, Florio has deep ties to the de- from the work. I’d just do the drips on a Kolb and other observers were signer world and runway shows, mailbox or doorway. The mailboxes got optimistic that enough design as he is a former publisher of very sculptural and the doorways got talent exists in New York to both Vogue and GQ, and was pre- more painterly. Without the name, it create momentum for a men’s viously a senior adviser at IMG wasn’t immediately identifiable as graf- week. This season, there are JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY Worldwide, the organizers of fiti,” he explained. more than 40 men’s collections Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in That may have been artistically being shown in New York in ei- New York. true, but police officers may not have ther men’s-only or dual-gender Any potential partnership be- seen it that way and Costello was ar- shows and presentations. tween the CFDA and Advanstar rested a number of times in his graffiti- “Years ago there were tents in could solidify the latter’s posi- splaying days. He declines to give an Bryant Park for a separate men’s tioning as a central commercial exact figure and he hasn’t tagged on the fashion week. It wasn’t as super- resource for the men’s apparel in- street since 2006. “It’s less than 10 and

sized as the women’s, but it was DABROWSKI KUBA PHOTO BY dustry. In an overt courtship of the more than one,” he said of his arrests. in Bryant Park and it was an offi- designer market, Advanstar this “It’s part of the territory. I don’t have a cial four days for men’s wear,” re- month is launching a new trade record and I’m not a criminal.” called GQ’s Moore. “It was a very platform in Las Vegas called The Coach worked for the past year with robust time for men’s wear. And I Tents at Project, where designers Costello developing his capsule collec- think men’s wear is even stronger like Bastian, Billy Reid and Todd tion. The drips on each design were now, so I don’t see any reason it Snyder will participate. Craig Costello in reproduced through a complex 30-step couldn’t work again.” “There are many possible ini- his Williamsburg silk-screen process to capture specific The CFDA previously or- tiatives and many people at the studio. nuances of depth and texture.

ganized a men’s fashion week table asking how it could be done ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY — DAVID LIPKE in New York in 1995 under the and what the right timing is,” auspices of 7th on Sixth, but the said Florio. “We shows were canceled in 2000 are ready to lend due to waning interest from de- whatever resourc- Man of signers and attendees. During es we can, includ- that time, designers such as ing relationships. THE WEEK JOE FLACCO: A- Donna Karan, Tommy Hilfiger John We are interest- Varvatos and John Bartlett often elected ed in marketing The slightly overgrown buzz cut provides to show coed during women’s showed his American men’s  fall line in the necessary volume to showcase his fashion week or moved their fashion and retail prominent jaw. shows to Europe. Milan. on the world stage. The Super Designer Michael Bastian We are the larg- Dimples make everything better. pointed out that American men’s designers est men’s fashion organization Bowl MVP are sometimes not served well by moving their in the country — 50,000 buyers and Baltimore shows overseas. “I think American men’s wear do business at our properties. The washed-down gray heather is totally different from what you see in Milan Elevating men’s fashion is good Ravens Penguin hoodie fits him perfectly and is slenderizing on his 6-foot, 6-inch frame. and Paris. Sometimes you see an American de- business for all of us.” quarterback signer over there and it feels a bit out of con- The renewed interest in a text. It looks out of place,” he noted. “I think New York men’s week comes is rocking a The raglan sleeve is one of the now we are getting critical mass in New York as London has basked in the top trends from the European for men’s wear so that we could gang together spotlight of its men’s shows. casual street- runways for fall ’13. and stand for something.” London Collections: Men, skater look Not everyone believes a separate men’s week spearheaded by the British The gray fleece gloves are too is advisable. “It’s a silly thing to do,” said Doug Fashion Council, took place that enhances matchy-matchy with the sweatshirt. Jakubowski, chief merchandising officer of Perry for the second time in January, his cool factor A black leather pair would add a Ellis International Inc. “It’s exciting and won- with shows that included Tom finishing touch. derful to be around fashion week and having the Ford, Alexander McQueen, and, although full audience available to us is so compelling. Christopher Kane, Hackett he’s 28, is still The little hint of a tonal layered T-shirt To create another week and require editors and London, Topman, Margaret flows seamlessly into the jeans. retailers from around the world to come to New Howell and Oliver Spencer. appropriate for York twice is unreasonable.” None less than British Prime The dark denim is the right wash. Daniel Silver, who codesigns the Perry Ellis Minister David Cameron hosted his age. However, a skinny cut would be more by Duckie Brown collection, was wary of attach- a reception for men’s designers fashion-forward than the slim-straight. ing a men’s fashion week to the Advanstar trade at 10 Downing Street to kick off shows, as some sources said was being consid- the collections on Jan. 7, giving a The nonperformance fashion ered. “If there was a men’s fashion week that speech about the importance of Nikes are the right choice for was the same as those in Milan and Paris, that fashion to the British economy. this cool ensemble. would be grand, but what they’re talking about — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS for New York is to have it attached to a trade FROM JEAN E. PALMIERI /AP/CORBIS RUARK STEVE BY PHOTO TRAVEL BLAZER

NEW YORK | LOS ANGELES | BOSTON | TORONTO | TOKYO | HONG KONG | LONDON | GENEVA | DÜSSELDORF

SWISS ARMY KNIVES CUTLERY TIMEPIECES TRAVEL GEAR FASHION FRAGRANCES | VICTORINOX.COM SECTION II

MODEL: THIJS M AT FUSION; STYLING BY ALEX BADIA FUSION; STYLING BY MODEL: THIJS M AT WWDMilestones

The company built on an affinity for a rugged, seafaring life has evolved NAUTICA into a full lifestyle collection with product from tailored clothing and women’s wear to accessories and home AT 30 goods — but has never lost its love of the water. PHOTO BY ELI SCHMIDT

Nylon jacket, polyester polo shirt and cotton and nylon pants.

KAREN MURRAY AT THE HELM I THE LICENSING JUGGERNAUT I DAVID CHU’S NEXT CHAPTER 2 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013

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WWD MILESTONES David Chu in 1987. Captain’s

Swimwear, 1998.

LogA look at Nautica’s three-decade voyage.

1983: David Chu launches Nautica 2001: The company with six pieces of men’s outerwear. opens a flagship in Rockefeller 1984: Nautica hits $2.5 million Center in in sales. New York. I State-O-Maine purchases the Nautica brand for $500,000. 2002: Men’s

underwear is NICK MACHALABA PHOTO BY 1991: Brand expands into men’s launched. sleepwear and loungewear. 2003: VF Corp. 1993: State-O-Maine is renamed purchases 2007: Karen Murray 2011: Pure Nautica Nautica Enterprises. Nautica for is named president Discovery fragrance $600 million. of Nautica. is added. 1994: Eyewear is introduced. I Chris Heyn is I My Voyage fragrance I The brand named president of is introduced. sponsors the 1996: Men’s jeans, Nautica Nautica Sportswear. Prudential Center Competition and Nautica Kids 2008: E-commerce site in Newark. make their debut. 2004: Chu exits is launched; luggage I The Keys I Nautica Voyage, a men’s Nautica. Rockefeller is added. furniture collection fragrance, is introduced. Center store closes. is added. 2009: Oceans fragrance 1997: Women’s swimwear and men’s 2005: Infant and juvenile launches. 2012: Give Change tailored clothing are launched. bedding is introduced. I Outdoor furniture to Make Change I Navigate Life campaign is added and indoor ad campaign is 1998: Nautica expands into home. launches; 20th store in furniture is relaunched. launched. Italy and 150th store in I Men’s and children’s I Brand launches 1999: Women’s sleepwear and China open. footwear and women’s in South Korea Latitude/Longitude fragrance outerwear are added. and signs licensing are introduced. 2006: Women’s I Nautica becomes the deal for India. sportswear and Voyage largest corporate sponsor I Nautica becomes 2000: Women’s jeans are added. fragrance are added. of Oceana. Advertising is a sponsor of brought in-house. Charity: Water. I Aqua Rush men’s 2010: Pure Nautica fragrance launches A look from 1993. fragrance launches. with Coty. I An interactive blog called Nautica360 and social media 2013: Nautica platform make their debut. marks 30 years in I The company launches business with a Ocean to Ocean Women’s special anniversary

marketing campaign. jeans, collection. ARCHIVES WWD AND NAUTICA SOURCE: 2000.

A beach look from The Rockefeller summer 2001. Center store, 2001. 1993 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; 2000 BY DAVID TURNER DAVID MITRA; 2000 BY ROBERT 1993 PHOTO BY

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WWD MILESTONES Guiding the Growth With a focus on performance, international expansion and the relaunch of a women’s collection, Nautica chief Karen Murray is firmly at the helm. By David Lipke

NAUTICA IS MARKING 30 Today, Nautica rings up $1.5 years on the oftentimes chop- billion in annual retail sales py seas of retail — and the in 75 countries, including all business is in ship-shape con- licensed categories. According dition today, with sales on the to VF estimates, Nautica is upswing and ambitious initia- the third-largest men’s sports- tives bolstering the brand. wear collection brand in U.S. The company, a unit of department stores. mammoth VF Corp., continues “It’s a wonderful mile- to expand its global footprint stone for the brand. What with international partners it speaks to is that it stands and ramp up its e-commerce the test of time,” said Karen goals, and is relaunching a Murray, president of VF’s

wholesale women’s sportswear sportswear coalition and the business this season as well as executive with direct over- plotting a return to full-price sight of Nautica. “At the end freestanding retail in the U.S. of the day, it says a lot about The multiprong growth this type of product and look. plan comes against the back- Whether you call it nautical or

drop of a yearlong marketing red-white-and-blue, this clean, campaign that will celebrate classic, colorful and bold look Nautica’s three-decade anni- really resonates with men.” versary, which the company For the past four years, is heralding as “30 Years on Nautica has posted com- the Water.” The achievement pound annual growth of about will be touted ·· in everything 6 percent a year, mostly from from advertising and window the men’s sportswear busi- displays to shopping bags and ness, according to Murray. Nautica product itself that “We’re planning more accel- bears special markings on la- erated growth for 2013. Our bels and hangtags with the ru- outlet business is really gain- bric “Since 1983.” ing momentum, as well as e- “It’s a true testament to commerce. Overseas, growth the strength and relevance in international territories is of the brand. Nautica is in- being driven by China, Latin ternationally recognized and America and Israel in the worn — and it also incorpo- Middle East,” she added. We’re planning more accelerated growth for 2013. Our outlet business is really gaining momentum, as well as e-commerce. — KAREN MURRAY

rates the latest design tech- Nautica will crown its an- nologies while still staying niversary publicly on Friday true to its roots and mari- with a big-budget runway time heritage. That’s what show at Lincoln Center during consumers responded to 30 New York Fashion Week. years ago, and still do today,” “We usually do a smaller- said Eric Wiseman, chairman scale presentation. This is a and chief executive officer of bit bigger and more of a cel- Greensboro, N.C.-based VF ebration. It’s been five years Corp. “What began as a collec- since we did a runway show,”

·· ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY tion of outerwear 30 years ago said Murray. “We’ve had great has become a leading global momentum with the brand for lifestyle brand representing the past three to five years. age of sales from lower-margin and we are more profitable. grouped together stylistically the finest in men’s, women’s Every year gets better. We are distressed product. Our department store business as the traditional “red-white- and kids’ apparel and acces- proud of what we achieved. “The charge when I came is very strong and our global and-blue” brands. sories, as well as a complete That will come across loud in was to really make sure business is very strong. Our “If you look at collection home collection. From eye- and clear when anyone looks that this core men’s product business online has traction floors in the U.S., we are al- wear to swimwear, home to at the runway.” line was reestablished,” said now and is growing at 50 per- ways surrounded by Tommy watches, today Nautica has According to VF’s most re- Murray, who joined VF Corp. cent gains each year. The rea- and Polo. The other brands 58 licensed categories, all of cent 10-Q filing, operating mar- as president of the Nautica son that it’s got such momen- are more updated or contem- which reflect the brand’s com- gin in the sportswear coalition business in 2007 and was tum is that we have been very porary, such Calvin Klein, mitment to quality, integrity improved to 10.3 percent in promoted to president of the consistent and offer strong Kenneth Cole and Perry Ellis. and service.” the first nine fiscal months of sportswear coalition in 2008. price-to-value on all our prod- They focus on rope-taupe-and- VF Corp. acquired Nautica 2012, up from 9.7 percent, on “I would say each year it’s ucts. That’s key.” beige and grays and blacks,” Enterprises Inc. in 2003 for the strength of a greater per- improved. We’re at the point Nautica’s key competitors explained Murray. “We all $600 million, establishing it as centage of revenue from high- right now where for the past in department stores are Polo share a space, but our lane is the anchor of a newly estab- er-margin direct-to-consumer two to three years, we are put- by Ralph Lauren and Tommy with the classic brands.” lished sportswear coalition. sales and a declining percent- ting on nice sales increases Hilfiger, with the trio usually {Continued on page 6 }

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business with. She is really rooted in but just six months after its debut, great product and she understands the Nautica was already reporting full- sell-in as well as the sell-through.” price selling below expectations. Guiding the Growth The Nautica customer at Macy’s About 29 percent of total Nautica tends to skew older, with more than 50 sales are from international markets, {Continued from page 4} Boscov’s, Stage Stores and Peebles. In percent of sales to consumers ages 40 to with that number growing from 20 per- Nautica offers a value proposition Asia, the brand is sold at 397 points of 59. The customer base is multi-cultur- cent four years ago. compared to Polo, with prices across sale; in Latin America, 302; in Europe, al, with brand appeal among African- “I think we should keep growing the the board that are 20 to 25 percent 54; in India and the Middle East, five, Americans, Hispanics and Asian- international part. The more we can lower than the Ralph Lauren brand. and in Canada and Australia, 153. Americans, Gennette pointed out. grow overseas the better it is. I would Pricing is on par with Tommy Hilfiger Macy’s is Nautica’s single largest Outside of wholesale, Nautica oper- have no problem if it was 50/50,” said in many product categories. wholesale partner and has carried the ates 87 outlet stores in the U.S., with Murray. “But before we embark on “Polo has always been the premium brand since its first season 30 years that number expected to remain rela- new territories and spaces, we do con- position. We look at core categories ago, when it was founded by designer tively stable in the near future. sumer insight work. Right now we are and we try to get the sharpest price we David Chu. The collection is versatile “We don’t really have plans to grow doing consumer segmentation to help can. We have a pair of jeans, a woven enough to sell in smaller as well as the outlet business in the U.S.,” said us guide those decisions on which mar- and a knit shirt, each for $50, and we larger Macy’s doors around the coun- Murray. “If there’s an opportunity here kets to enter.” have a sweater program at $45 year- try, said Jeff Gennette, chief merchan- and there in a premium center, we’ll China, Latin America and the round. Of course, we also have elevat- dising officer for the retailer. look into it. We want to grow the busi- Middle East are Nautica’s biggest mar- ed product that sits above that. kets around the world, in that order. But it’s about strong product, The company recently entered Russia, quality made, at a strong price Turkey, Brazil and South Korea for value,” said Murray. the first time. In South Korea, the To differentiate itself further brand has staked out a more pre- from its competitors, Nautica has mium positioning with local partner embraced a performance stance Amanex, with a focus on technical on many styles, incorporating performance wear. wicking properties and extra- “It’s more elevated performance durable fabrics to its designs. product than what is in the U.S. They “We’ve added those character- have some of the sportswear from the istics in core product like pants U.S. but the high-end performance and woven shirts. They are wrin- pieces that are $500 and $600 is exclu- kle-resistant, they wick moisture, sive to Korea now,” Murray pointed travel easily and are comfortable. out. “None of the product is in the U.S., We do this in wovens and knits, but there is a conversation about us our performance fleece and in reverse-selling it here. I think some of our outerwear. We call out all these items would do very well online.” these additional benefits, and Overseas, there are 62 freestanding have been able to differentiate Nautica stores in Greater China, 38 in ourselves from the pack and find the Middle East, 45 in Southeast Asia, a ‘white space’ on the men’s col- 44 in Mexico and Latin America, 11 in lection floor,” said Murray. South Korea, two in Australia and two Last year, Nautica made a in Europe. The stores are operated by big change to its knit polo shirt Nautica’s network of 21 international — which it calls a deck shirt — license partners. Wholesale distribu- switching from an all-cotton fab- tion internationally is in about 1,600 ric to a performance fabric that is department and spe- 60 percent cotton and 40 percent cialty stores. polyester. It was a big gamble, In license catego- as the short-sleeve knit category ries, Nautica has 19 represents almost 30 percent of licensees in 58 cat- all Nautica sales. The new shirt egories, including: looks and feels like cotton but has Coty for fragrances; the performance attributes of a ES Originals for foot- synthetic, such as moisture wick- wear; Essex for um- ing, wrinkle resistance and hold- brellas; Fishman and ing up to washing better. Tobin for children’s “It was a big leap for us, but apparel; Fownes for it worked. It’s been a home run,” cold-weather gear; said Murray. “Continuing to deliv- Levy Group for men’s er on the performance platform is tailored clothing and key. It differentiates the line, and topcoats, men’s main- we know the customer really val- floor outerwear and ues these performance features.” women’s topcoats; Raj Knits, woven pants, fleece, for women’s swim- swim and denim have been top wear; Marchon for category performers for Nautica eyewear; PVH for in recent seasons. Outerwear, an Nautica’s 30th anniversary campaign. neckwear; Randa for important category historically luggage and backpacks; Royce for ho- for the brand, has been more ness overall but not necessarily open siery; S. Cohen for tailored clothing difficult, due to macro weather many more stores.” in Canada; Li & Fung for dress shirts; trends. Consumers are increas- The company is planning to go into Swank for belts and small leather ingly choosing lighter-weight full-price retail, according to an inter- goods; Timex for watches; Crown alternatives to heavy coats, nal brand overview, but specific details Crafts for infant and juvenile bedding; said Murray. are unavailable at this point. Lifetime Brands for tabletop; Louisville “Outerwear is a category that seems “It’s got very strong core items that “I would tell you that we are con- for utility bedding; and Revman for to shrink a little bit every year, not just are unique to the Nautica brand that stantly exploring the opportunity do- fashion bedding and bath. (For more on for us but the entire marketplace, due work for smaller doors but it also has mestically and we’ll have much more licensing, see pages 28-30.) to global warming. That is a category enough fashion and breadth to work to share with you later this year,” Annual wholesale sales from all I wish were stronger,” she observed. in larger flagships. It’s a line that explained Murray, noting that she Nautica licensees were approximately “Other businesses are infringing on works in many doors in all parts of the believes full-price retail would ben- $500 million in 2012. that and taking market share, like knit country. It used to be mostly Eastern efit the brand. “We are a company that This year, Nautica is relaunching active or performance fleece or sweat- Seaboard, but now it’s strong all over, does things methodically, and we want its e-commerce site with a focus on a ers or blazers or completer pieces. All including the West Coast,” he said. to make sure we’re doing it right. We streamlined shopping experience and of those items are being worn as out- Gennette recalled that the brand are doing our due diligence, and we’ll richer brand storytelling. The company erwear. The outerwear season is ef- suffered somewhat years back when it be ready to talk about full-price retail has set a goal of generating 10 percent fectively November and December and became too focused on key items and in another quarter or two.” of all sales via e-commerce within the after Christmas those items are half thus too commodity oriented. Nautica previously operated a next three years. Asked where that fig- the price, so it’s not a money-making “Under Karen’s leadership, the 14,000-square-foot flagship store at 50 ure stood today, Murray responded that proposition for anyone at this point. brand has gone back to its roots and Rockefeller Plaza, which it opened it’s “not where we want it to be.” It’s a tough business.” its reason for being,” he explained. “I with much fanfare in April 2001 but The company first launched its e-com- In the U.S., Nautica is wholesaled think the line is looking very fresh and shuttered in August 2004, following its merce business at nautica.com in 2008 in about 1,500 department store shops relevant. We just finished a strong year acquisition by VF. The store was origi- with a full assortment of men’s, women’s with partners including Macy’s, Lord together. I think Karen is one of the nally expected to ring up sales of $10 and children’s apparel and accessories. & Taylor, Dillard’s, Bon-Ton, Belk, smartest leaders of the brands that I do million to $12 million in its first year, {Continued on page 8} Celebrating 30 years on the WATER 8 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013

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well as the North American business Nautica conducted a consumer inter- of Kipling, with the latter comprising cept test to evaluate the performance Guiding the Growth about one-fifth of the group’s revenues. of the shoppable airport billboards, “Eric Wiseman has given me a very learning that while consumers were

{Continued from page 6} tives, see page 34.) long leash, but at the end of the day, it’s a familiar with QR codes, they did not In another relaunch, Nautica is try- “One of the brand’s greatest financially driven company and we have like using them. It turned out the bill- ing its hand at women’s sportswear strengths is providing a consistent checks and balances to make sure that boards did little to drive actual sales, again, following two earlier failed at- image of who the Nautica consumer I’m doing the right thing,” said Murray. but were highly successful at driving tempts. The company already offers is, representing their deep connection “[We utilize VF’s] corporate resources in brand awareness and equity. some women’s sportswear within its with the water,” said Wiseman. “The the areas of systems and strategy. There “This was something we would not own outlet stores and via international brand has really solidified its position is a consumer insights·· team there, head- have been able to determine from sales license partners in overseas markets. around being a brand for those who ed by Stephen Dull, that helps me make data alone,” said Murray. However, the brand has had difficulty live their lives on or near the water, more informed decisions.” Other recent research included a gaining traction in the U.S. wholesale and a big part of that connection with Brands within VF are encouraged listening lab to help guide the redesign channel in the category. consumers has been forged through our to share best practices and innovations of the e-commerce site. This revealed “It’s a bit of a sore spot as it was Ocean2Ocean campaign.” with each other. that consumers were surprised at the launched twice unsuccessfully be- That campaign launched in 2010, “We share all the time. I am wel- breadth of offerings and competitive fore,” said Murray. “I think we weren’t with storytelling that found inspira- come to fly out and sit in the fabric de- prices on the site. Another shop-along priced competitively and the line was tion from the people and places along partment of The North Face or fly up to study found that men particularly like the wrong expression of the brand for America’s coastlines. “Design and mar- Timberland and talk about strategy. VF mannequins as part of their shopping the female audience — it was boxy keting teams traveled together — lit- has a huge denim capability, and I can experience to help them easily figure and men’s wear-oriented. Today, we are using fluid fabrics that drape like silks and Modals. It’s a big change. Our offering is very feminine. It’s [Nautica] incorporates the latest design quite sexy and fitted.” This latest incarnation of women’s technologies while still staying true to its sportswear is launching this month at Belk, Dillard’s and Lord & Taylor, with additional stores to come. “It’s roots and maritime heritage. product that was available overseas, but we are expanding it for the U.S. — ERIC WISEMAN, VF CORP. market and making it more exten- sive,” said Murray. “It’s important for go down to Lee and talk about a denim out entire outfits. any successful global brand to have a process. Conversely, we have a great A market-mix analysis showed the dual-gender presence.” relationship with Macy’s, so they might strong benefits and synergy of spend- The in-house sportswear will join want to talk to me about that,” Murray ing on social and digital marketing in an existing in-house women’s sleep- pointed out. tandem with more traditional adver- wear business and licensed women’s VF holds an annual internal confer- tising buys. outerwear and swimwear. An advertis- ence dubbed VF Max, staged at locales “It was fascinating to learn how the ing campaign launches this month to from the MIT campus in Cambridge, multiple consumer touch points really trumpet the reintroduction of Nautica Mass., to New York City, where leaders help to strengthen our connection with women’s collection sportswear to U.S. from the company meet with outside our consumer,” said·· Murray. department stores. thinkers and innovators. “We’ve had As a unit of VF, Nautica is part of “We still have work to do to realize Robert Redford speak to us, and we a diversified portfolio that stretches the potential in women’s sportswear,” had Julie Taymor talk about the chal- across outdoor, denim, sportswear, con- said Wiseman. “We’re moving cautious- PHOTO FROM WWD ARCHIVE lenges of staging the Spider-Man mu- temporary, footwear and accessories. ly but deliberately here, but I’m really erally from ocean to ocean — finding sical. It’s about how to solve problems “VF’s overall growth strategy is encouraged by the progress we’re mak- unique nautical inspiration,” explained and innovate and do something dif- based on actively managing a highly ing and the success we’re seeing.” Murray. “The product reflected these ferent and unique,” Murray recalled. diversified global portfolio of leading While nascent, Nautica women’s discoveries, and marketing focused “Who would think that you could learn lifestyle brands. Nautica’s diversified sportswear could eventually outsell on real people that are truly living the something from Spider-Man?” product mix and global distribution the men’s business. “At the end of the Nautica life. Their stories were told on- VF Corp. is known for a research- is perfectly aligned with that strategy. day, a lot more women’s apparel is sold line, in print and through social media.” driven approach to strategic and busi- The brand is stronger today than it has than men’s in department stores, so I Nautica launched an interactive blog ness decisions. At Nautica, market-re- ever been and [has] many growth op- can’t see why that wouldn’t be true for called Nautica360 in 2010 and became search practices are leveraged across portunities,” said Wiseman, who earli- Nautica,” said Murray. active on Facebook, Twitter, YouTube the entire spectrum of business process- er in his career oversaw Nautica when The men’s focus of the brand up and Flickr. The brand now has garnered es, including understanding consumers’ he held Murray’s current position. until now has stemmed from its roots three million fans on Facebook. evolving needs, optimizing communica- “What stands out was [how] we all in outdoor and sports, particularly The company conceives and ex- tions, maximizing the effects of spend- felt about bringing Nautica into the with connections to the sea. To that ecutes its advertising campaigns in- ing and guiding innovation. VF family of brands and taking it to end, the company today is the title house, having exited a relationship This past holiday season, Nautica its next level of growth,” he recalled sponsor of two high-profile triathlons with Laird+Partners in 2009. invested in shoppable billboards at of his time at the helm of the Nautica — the Nautica Malibu Triathlon and “Nautica was so focused on ‘man on the two New York City airports, John F. business. “Nautica was one of the first the Nautica South Beach Triathlon. a boat.’ It was a very lonely guy on a Kennedy International and LaGuardia. acquisitions VF made, once we put Since 2009, Nautica has also been boat. It’s not all the brand is about. We Shoppers could scan items from the into motion our plan to transform the the largest single sponsor of Oceana, are about families and dual gender and billboard on their smartphones via QR company with the addition of more the ocean conservation organization. friends and connection,” said Murray, codes, which would bring up the item lifestyle brands, so it really was a In 2012, Nautica became a sponsor whose in-house team has guided the from the Nautica e-commerce site. milestone for us.” of Charity:Water, which raises funds brand toward imagery of men, women to bring clean drinking water to de- and families together. veloping countries and communities. As president of the sportswear co- (For more on philanthropic initia- alition, Murray overseas Nautica as

Growth is being driven in China and Latin America. Here, a Beijing store and, right, a Panama location.

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WWD MILESTONES Young Man and the Sea Creative director Chris Cox channels his love of the outdoors into Nautica’s lifestyle offerings. By Jean E. Palmieri

CHRIS COX IS passionate about the everything fell in line.” outdoors. And being Nautica’s vice He came on board as vice presi- president of design and creative allows dent of men’s design in February him to indulge that passion every day. 2008, and later that year was elevated Born and raised in New Jersey, Cox to his current position, succeeding grew up around the water, summering Miriam Lambert. at Long Beach Island, a barrier island “It’s been a fun run,” he said. off the state’s mainland. “There have been a lot of challenges “My brother was a lifeguard and in a and a lot of rewarding moments.” band — I worked,” Cox said with a laugh. His primary goal upon joining the “But I lived vicariously through him.” company was to reconnect Nautica But it wasn’t all work and no play. with its roots and “get back to the core When he wasn’t toiling away for some essence” of the brand. extra cash, Cox spent time enjoying the “When I came in, we didn’t really sand and the surf as well, skills he calls stand for anything anymore,” he said. upon to create the company’s men’s “We were all over the place and we collections every season. were chasing something that wasn’t “I have a really active life outside of what the brand is all about.” the office,” said Cox, who enjoys surf- Cox dove in, researching the history ing, kayaking, mountain biking, tennis of Nautica and where it had enjoyed and soccer, among other sports. “And the most success over the years. this brand’s large point of differentia- “I did a ton of brand work,” he said. tion is its performance aspects and the “I asked, Who do we want to be?” fact that it was built around the water.” Answering that question required The company says its spinnaker “focus, belief and great creativity,” he logo is “a symbol of adventure, continued. “You have to believe in action and classicism.” This who you are, put a stake in the unwavering devotion to the ground and go for it.” water runs deep, and im- Cox said he’s never felt pacts everything Cox restricted by Nautica’s sin- produces for the label. gle-minded mission — in He travels fre- fact, just the opposite. quently to coastal lo- “When you put cations around the blinders on and re- country to keep his ally focus on the finger on the pulse end goal, you can go of the Nautica cus- forward — as long tomer. Those excur- as it goes back to sions have taken the brand’s point of him from the Great view,” he said. Lakes to Oregon, New That point of view England to Florida needs to be consistent and California, and across all categories of while the communities product that sport the and climates are differ- Nautica name. As a re- ent, there’s a certain sult, Cox works with commonality. the company’s large “I’ve seen a large diver- cadre of licensees to sity of people, cultures and Two of ensure that they’re Chris Cox oversees all lifestyles,” he said, “but water Cox’s on board with the of the men’s design is what brings them all together.” favorite mission as well. for the brand.

And while he keeps up jackets. The design pro- GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY with the latest fashion trends cess starts with the emerging from the runways of company’s internal the latest pieces of the Black Sail whether it’s in hard goods or soft goods.” Europe, he finds his travels sportswear design team collection, which is the brand’s most So which items does Cox believe around the U.S. to be and then Cox “inter- elevated product. have been his most iconic during his more useful inspira- faces” with the out- “It’s more of our pinnacle line,” Cox tenure at Nautica? tions for the Nautica side companies that explained. “It’s more directional and “I’m a giant turtleneck fan,” he said. brand because the produce everything innovative. It’s our tease about where “And this fall, we’ll be celebrating the company’s associa- from tailored we believe we can take the brand.” fisherman’s sweater.” tion with the water clothing, dress And this year, its 30th anniversary, In addition, he pointed to the down “is such a strong part shirts and neck- Nautica is also offering a series of parkas with fur trim and “detailed bot- of who we are.” wear to shoes capsules throughout the year cel- toms with a great wash,” as key. “And While his personal and cold-weather ebrating the milestone. For spring, pant fit is really important to me.” activities are a perfect goods. The larg- Cox designed “more modern inter- Cox said the sportswear design match for the brand, est companies pretations of vintage sailing pieces,” team creates a collection every year it was his design talent come to Nautica’s including waterproof sailing jackets, that is “so vast, it’s hard to pick one that appealed to Karen office on a quar- zip cable shawl cardigans with wind- thing. In any given quarter, there are Murray, president of terly basis to run block linings and full-zip hoodies. And 800 to 1,000 sku’s and we manage three VF’s Sportswear Coalition, through the color for fall, the celebration will continue seasons at once.” which oversees Nautica. palette and print choices with similarly themed pieces. He said such a work load would Before joining Nautica for the season to ensure “The America’s Cup finals will be in be impossible without the help of a five years ago, Cox spent 11 years at everyone is on the same page. San Francisco in September,” Cox said, strong technical and product-devel- Tommy Hilfiger, overseeing every- But Nautica’s bread-and-butter is “so we’ll also be playing off of that.” opment team. And each of the com- thing from men’s outerwear, swimwear still its men’s collection sportswear, 95 But in everything Cox designs, at- pany’s designers, some of whom have and bottoms to denim and sportswear. percent of which is designed in-house. tention to detail remains paramount been with the brand since founder After leaving Hilfiger in 2004, he joined The fall incarnation of the collec- as Nautica seeks to capture “the es- David Chu was still on board, is re- Victorinox as senior vice president of tion will make its debut on the run- sence of an active, adventurous and sponsible for all the technical bells design and creative director. way during New York Fashion Week spirited lifestyle.” and whistles on each garment they “Karen went to HR and said she on Friday. Key pieces will include fur- Cox admitted: “I’m a gear-head. create. “We don’t just design it and wanted to hire the guy who was design- trimmed technical parkas, nautical Growing up, I loved to see how things hand it off,” he said. “We control ev- ing Victorinox,” Cox related. “We had utility leather jackets, hand-knit cash- work.” He translates that into his de- erything about it, including making actually had a conversation when I left mere fisherman sweaters, slim brushed signs for Nautica by constantly asking sure it’s [priced] properly. Owning the Tommy so she knew who I was and my cargos and slim wool knit pants. “what’s next, what’s warmer, what’s details is very important — today’s career path. So I met with Karen and As part of the mix, Cox will unveil cooler, what’s drier? I’m driven by that — consumer expects so much.” EL PALACIO DE HIERRO CONGRATULATES NAUTICA ON THEIR 30 YEAR ANNIVERSARY 12 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013

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WWD MILESTONES David Chu: Then and Now Nautica’s founder reflects on the brand’s roots and looks ahead to his latest challenge. By Jean E. Palmieri

DAVID CHU always had an affinity for attention of State-O-Maine, a publicly the water. And it was this love of the traded sleepwear firm. In his bid to ocean that prompted the designer and expand his fledging brand, Chu part- entrepreneur to create the Nautica nered with the larger company and label in 1983. with State-O-Maine’s Harvey Sanders “I used to travel to the islands and serving as chief executive, a plan was loved being on the beach in St. Maarten put into motion that took Nautica into and the Bahamas,” Chu said in a recent various product categories including interview at his town house in New sportswear, activewear and women’s York’s Flatiron District. “I found the wear as well as retail. island life cool and relaxing and being Nautica in-store shops were in- around the ocean was magnificent.” stalled at department stores around the Even so, the idea of creating a country and the brand sponsored sail- nautical-themed apparel brand was ing competitions and opened a fancy the furthest thing from his mind grow- showroom on 57th Street in New York. ing up. In fact, Chu, who was born in With the Nautica label accounting Taiwan and immigrated to the U.S. at for the majority of State-O-Maine’s age 13, had designs on being an archi- sales, the company was renamed tect, not a designer. Nautica Enterprises in 1994. At the “I went to FIT, but I didn’t know I’d height of its popularity, worldwide be in the fashion industry,” he said. “I sales were more than $1 billion, and actually studied design by accident. I there were some 1,500 in-store shops thought I’d be an architect or in sales around the country, as well as more and marketing. But I took an illustra- than 100 of its own stores. The brand’s tion class one summer and found my- name was found on everything from self in fashion design.” neckwear to fragrance, and along After he graduated from college with Tommy Hilfiger and Polo Ralph with a degree in fashion design, Chu Lauren, Nautica rode the American traveled back to Taiwan and launched sportswear wave that was sweeping the an apparel business with friends, “but U.S. at that time. it failed miserably,” he recalled with a In 2003, VF Corp. — which had been laugh. “But I’m glad I failed early. It’s thwarted in its attempt to buy Calvin better to fail when you’re 23 and young Klein — bought the brand for $600 mil- and stupid than at 35 or 40.” lion in cash. Chu pocketed a windfall Chu returned to the States and of more than $104 million and stayed joined Kayser-Roth for five years. on with VF to oversee global design, Then, in 1983, his entrepreneurial product development and marketing spirit surfaced and Chu whipped for the label. David Chu up a small collection of six color- He remained for a little over a photographed ful men’s jackets that incorporated year “to transition the business,” he last month at fashion and function. This collec- said, before exiting to search for his his Manhattan tion spawned a new business that he next chapter. town house. named Nautica, after the Latin word “VF’s strategy was an investment PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY “nauticus,” for “nautical.” strategy,” he said. “And they didn’t “I was 28 when I started Nautica,” think they needed any more of my stake in Tumi, the luggage and accesso- ative director and cochairman of the said Chu, now 58. “It started with a input. So I moved on. Life is a series of ries brand, and joining the company as board, said he was looking forward sail-away jacket and was fine-tuned different adventures.” executive creative director. He worked to doing “something that I’ve never over the years. It resonated with a lot The first adventure was to cre- with Tumi for around two years and done before. We can take this com- of people.” In its first year, he said, ate a new company, DC Design also acquired Mallory & Church, a lux- pany global. Its penetration in North Bloomingdale’s, Barneys New York International, to market an upscale ury accessories firm. America and Asia is low. China is a and Saks Fifth Avenue carried the col- men’s designer collection label. At Most recently, Chu teamed with potentially big market and we’re [en- lection along with such high-end spe- one point, he was designing both a Investcorp to acquire Georg Jensen, a thusiastic] about the opportunities in cialty stores as Mark Shale, Roots and tailored-driven David Chu line and a Scandinavian luxury brand that is best North America.” Capper & Capper. sportswear collection under the Lincs known for its high-end silver but also Among his goals for Jensen is to “When we started, there were 80 de- by David Chu name. The two lines manufactures jewelry, watches and expand its men’s wear offerings. “We partment store chains,” Chu said wist- were merged in 2008. He also has a high-end home goods. It was founded have a watch collection but we’re fully. “Now there are four. And we were David Chu Bespoke line of luxury in 1904 and operates nearly 100 stores looking to launch men’s accessories,” also selling to a few hundred really made-to-measure men’s wear that he around the world but has limited distri- he revealed. good specialty stores.” offers from the top floor of his historic bution in the U.S. He said he’s eager to “take my taste The company had sales of $700,000 brick town house in Manhattan. Leafing through a coffee-table book and sensibility and reposition the in its first year and $2.5 million the fol- Chu also flexed the creative side of Jensen’s silver products, Chu, who brand to be more successful. It’s an in- lowing year, the same year it caught the of his personality by buying an equity was named the company’s chief cre- teresting challenge for me.” Although he may be older and a little grayer, Chu’s creative mind-set ...and hasn’t really changed since he con- 1998. ceived of Nautica three decades ago. Looking back at the brand, Chu said he is “not surprised” that Nautica has remained so popular. “Once you hit a certain size, you have longevity,” he said. “There’s a value and perception in consumers’ minds about what Nautica stands for, and that will be around for a long, long time.” He admits that he doesn’t really keep up with what the brand is doing, although he said current Nautica de- signer Chris Cox “is a good guy and has good taste.” But although he has distanced him- self from Nautica, it will always be Looks from a big part of who he is. “Nautica was 1993...... 1996... great and a lot of fun,” he said. “Life’s been good to me.” PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY

14 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 SECTION II

WWD MILESTONES SMOOTH SAILING PHOTOS BY ELI SCHMIDT

Polyester jackets, cotton pants and aviator sunglasses. WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 15 WWD.COM

Over the last 30 years, Nautica has evolved into an American lifestyle brand featuring bright performance outerwear, playful sportswear, sleek tailored clothing, timeless Wool blazer, nylon jacket, cotton and dress furnishings and nylon pants. modern accessories. — ALEX BADIA AN USING BUMBLE & BUMBLE; FASHION ASSISTANT: MERCEDES PSL BASS; FASHION INTERN: MICHAEL ROBERTS; WOMEN’S STYLING BY KIM FRIDAY WOMEN’S STYLING BY INTERN: MICHAEL ROBERTS; PSL BASS; FASHION MERCEDES ASSISTANT: AN USING BUMBLE & BUMBLE; FASHION MODELS: THIJS M AT FUSION AND CECE DUVALE AT WILHELMINA; MAKEUP BY LEAH BENNETT, LEAHBENNETT.COM; HAIR BY DENNIS FEI AT KATE RY KATE AT FEI DENNIS BY HAIR LEAHBENNETT.COM; BENNETT, LEAH WILHELMINA; BY MAKEUP AT DUVALE CECE AND FUSION AT M THIJS MODELS: 16 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013

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Polyester vest, Sorona shape polyester memory jacket, cotton shirt and silk tie. Tie bar from Thetiebar.com.

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Cotton blazer, cotton piqué polo shirt and cotton and elastane skirt.

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Polyester and nylon jacket, wool cardigan, cotton and Lycra spandex poplin shirt, nylon active pants and high-top sneakers. Congratulations NAUTICA

ICONIC STYLE 22 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013

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Cotton and linen jacket, cotton denim jacket and jeans, cotton and spandex maillot.

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Leather jacket, nylon active pants, Sorona shape polyester memory shorts, Nautica Zhik hat, multifunction resin-strap watch. CONGRATULATES

CELEBRATING

YEARS ON THE WATER 26 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013

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Polyester jacket, cotton and linen shirt, polyester shorts and knit tie. Tie bar from Thetiebar.com.

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WWD MILESTONES

Licensing: Pump Up the Volume

Nautica’s 58 categories of product account for more than $500 million in annual sales. By Jean E. Palmieri

FROM UMBRELLAS and dren’s wear and home prod- Latin America, which have beach towels to footwear ucts, Vicari said. more than 300 points of sale. and fashion bedding, and The international arm, Product categories sold in from Europe to Asia to South which includes distributors, those countries include wom- America, Nautica’s reach is counts 22 operators·· in almost en’s, home furnishings and far and wide. 75 countries. These partners children’s in addition to men’s And overseeing the massive operate some 200 freestanding wear. The Middle East boasts international effort is Maria Nautica stores as well as 1,000 freestanding men’s, women’s Vicari, president of global li- in-store shops. and children’s stores in Dubai, censing for the brand. Vicari noted that Timex, Abu Dhabi, Kuwait, Qatar, An eight-year veteran of Coty and Marchon, its watch, Saudi Arabia and Israel. the company, Vicari has an in- fragrance and eyewear licens- There are no longer any dustry pedigree that includes ees, respectively, hold global full-price Nautica retail out- 20 years with GFT working on licenses for the brand and sell posts in the U.S., although Ungaro, Valentino and Joseph the Nautica product around Vicari said it is definitely in Abboud, as well as a stint the world. the company’s sights. at Saks Fifth Avenue work- ing with then-men’s general merchandise manager Roger Farah, who is now president The unaided awareness of the brand of Ralph Lauren. When Vicari joined is astounding. There are very few Nautica, the licensing pro- gram was already established. In fact, the brand has had in- markets where we’re not known. ternational licenses in Canada and Mexico — “above and — MARIA VICARI below the border,” as she puts it — for 29 years. In the States, Nautica is “We’re working on it,” she But under her tutelage, the primarily a men’s brand with said. “It’ll be one of our strate- company’s licensing arm has women’s sportswear slated to gies going forward.” grown substantially, and today launch here for spring under With such a wide-ranging there are 40 operators domesti- the direction of the in-house network, Vicari categorized cally and abroad, overseeing 59 Nautica team. But overseas, Nautica’s licensing efforts as categories of product that ac- she pointed out, most of the “a mature business.” And with count for annual sales of more partners “operate a dual-gen- rare exceptions, there aren’t a than $500 million. der platform.” The largest in- lot of other categories where “Licensing is a big source ternational market is Greater Nautica hopes·· to plant stakes. of revenue and a brand-build- China, which accounts for 27 “I get calls all day long with ing component,” Vicari said. percent of total sales. There some of the most bizarre re- “It’s a big endeavor.” are 366 points of sale there, quests,” she said, shaking her The business is broken including freestanding stores head. “But we have specific down into two distinct catego- as well as in-store shops in guardrails and guidelines [for ries: domestic licensed prod- department stores like Isetan, what products we’ll put the

uct and international licens- Parkson, Sogo, New World, Nautica name on], and we con- THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY ing, she explained. Mitsukoshi and Takishimaya. sider if it will be brand-equity The domestic products are There are nine Nautica Kids building. We also look at the not ‘Yes,’ we won’t consider of the contract negotiation those that are “noncore com- stores in China and Vicari kinds of distribution it would the category.” and compliance.” petencies” for Nautica, like said there is “potential for get and whether it would en- And, she added with a When deciding whether to luggage and tabletop. The most growth there.” hance the brand experience laugh, “We’re very control- enter a category, Vicari said successful in terms of volume Other large international with the consumer. If the an- ling. It’s not easy being our li- the company “discerns what’s are watches, fragrance, chil- markets include Mexico and swers to those questions are censee. We control every part {Continued on page 30}

Domestic International Licenses Licenses 338: China and Hong Kong Fragrance: Coty Amanex: Korea Footwear: ES Originals Arvind Lifestyles: India Umbrellas: Essex Bez Trading: Footwear in Mexico Boys’ and girls’ apparel: Fishman Tobin and South America Cold-weather gear: Fownes Central Trading: Thailand Men’s main floor outerwear: Levy Group Dayan: Apparel and accessories in Men’s tailored clothing: Levy Group Mexico and South America Women’s topcoats: Levy Group Debenhams: U.K. Women’s swimwear: Raj La Compagnie del Pelle: Italy, Eyewear: Marchon Switzerland and Austria Neckwear: PVH LF Asia: Children’s wear in China Luggage and backpacks: Randa Liwa: Middle East Montgar: Chile Socks: Royce Notos: Greece and Cyprus Tailored clothing in Canada: S. Cohen Pacific Classic: Children’s wear in Taiwan Dress shirts: Li & Fung Planet Sports: Philippines and Vietnam Belts and small leather goods: Swank PT Mitra: Indonesia Watches: Timex Royal Sporting House: Singapore and Infant and juvenile bedding: Crown Crafts Malaysia Tabletop: Lifetime Ruentex: Taiwan Utility bedding: Louisville SBN Clothing: Israel Fashion bedding and bath in Fashion bedding in the U.S. and Siga: Canada U.S. and Mexico: Revman Mexico is licensed to Revman. True Alliance: Australia CONGRATULATIONS NAUTICA! 30 YEARS OF REFRESHINGLY UNIQUE AND EXCITING MODERN CLASSIC SPORTSWEAR.

YOUR PARTNER FROM THE BEGINNING,

We look forward to many future milestones together 30 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013

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WWD MILESTONES Pump Up the Volume

Nautica signed a license with Korea’s Amanex for special product and retail. Here, the store in Seoul.

{Continued from page 28} explained. “A lot of countries don’t She said with some exceptions for adding that “they control the approval worth the effort. If it’s small, it won’t have department stores, so we’ll have local variances, the product that is process, which is very involved.” have a future. And it also has to be more distribution in independent spe- sold overseas is the same as that of- Licensees are invited to the com- nothing that would be brand-eroding.” cialty stores.” fered in the U.S. pany’s showroom to see the season’s That said, however, bags and foot- As a result of its breadth of product As a result, it is imperative that all fashion focus and work with the de- wear are two product categories and distribution network, the Nautica product sporting the Nautica name sign team to brainstorm on how best where “enhancements are up for con- brand is “incredibly well-known out- be consistent in terms of seasonal to translate the trends into their par- sideration,” Vicari said. “But with the side this country,” Vicari said. “The fashion trends. ticular product categories. So when exception of women’s accessories, unaided awareness of the brand is “Our product development team customers buy anything from a pair of we’re pretty much there.” astounding. There are very few mar- works with [creative director] Chris shoes to a suit or even sheets for their So instead of entering a lot of new kets where we’re not known. And the Cox to ensure the brand direction is children, they can be assured it got the categories, the “strategy for the next five reception to the brand is very strong.” articulated each season,” she said, nod from the top. years,” she said, is for “organic growth and international expansion.” Braided belt The plan is to concentrate on emerg- Watch from by Swank. ing markets and Nautica is expected Timex. to reveal shortly that it has lined up a partner in Russia. Turkey and Brazil are also seen as key growth opportunities for the brand and the company recently started a full-price business in India. In the third quarter of 2012, Nautica signed a deal with Amanex for the manufacture and distribution of a performance lifestyle collection available exclusively in Korea. The collection includes men’s and wom- en’s performance apparel and ac- cessories, including backpacks, socks, hats, gloves, underwear and scarves. The items are designed to be functional Ties are with water-resistant quali- licensed to ties and technical fabrics. PVH. The plan is to open between 75 Aqua Rush by and 100 Nautica accounts by 2016 Translucent with distribution in in-store shops in Nautica fragrance from Coty. sunglasses are department stores and freestanding by Marchon. Nautica units. This deal is a “pioneering” one for Nautica, Vicari said, since it focuses on one particular product category — performance apparel. “Our positioning there is unique,” she said, noting that the products offered in that country center around “water and lifestyle” and have been received well. Outerwear is also expected to be a big business there. “Korea is a very outerwear-centric market,” she added. Vicari said that when it comes to licensing, one size doesn’t fit all, particularly out- side the U.S. borders. “The model is different, de- Boat shoes are licensed pending upon the country,” she to ES Originals. THINK OUTLETS. THINK TANGER.

CONGRATULATIONS! FOR 30 YEARS OF FASHION EXCELLENCE

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SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES The homepage at nautica.com. Clicking Digital is experiencing rapid growth in sales, traffic and fans. Away By Rachel Strugatz EXACTLY THREE years ago, on Twitter, YouTube and Flickr, fol- of product spanning all categories, ranging from holiday gift lists to back- Nautica hit the digital scene, and lowed by Instagram and Pinterest including men’s, women’s, kids and to-school bedroom makeovers. The during the first week of February, last August. home, as well as licensed products company sponsored a contest (which the brand reached three million fol- And as successful as the brand has like watches, eyewear, footwear, ended last month) in which one win- lowers on Facebook. been thus far on Facebook, Drisko ac- women’s swimwear, leather goods, ner will have the opportunity to star Besides the social media platform knowledges that Twitter has been a bath accessories and fragrance. in an upcoming Nautica Ocean to having the most fans and highest lev- “bit of a challenge” for the brand. “Product presentation will be bet- Ocean campaign video. Drisko said els of engagement, Facebook drives “A lot of people use Twitter to fol- ter and, in general, [we will] better the winner will be announced within more traffic to nautica.com than any low celebrities or news outlets and, for integrate the brand experience a couple of weeks. of its peers, according to Rosalind us, it’s a bit challenging unless we’re with the shopping experience. When asked what has been Drisko, director of marketing and com- doing a lot of promotions. People usu- [This will allow] more of an in- the biggest challenge with re- munications at Nautica. ally want a promotion for something tegration of content and com- spect to digital for the brand “We could have merce,” Drisko said. thus far, Drisko pointed to 150,000 people talk- She added that cur- two elements. ing about an item, and rently, nautica.com only The first is adapting when the brand posts ships to U.S. addresses, to the speed at which something, there can but there are plans to technology is chang- be thousands of likes. change this. ing. She cited as an We get a lot of insights,” Nautica launched example the rapid Drisko said, noting e-commerce in 2008, pace at which that the most popular and that channel Instagram has be- posts on Facebook are is growing rapidly. come one of the most about timepieces. “With Although Drisko de- popular social plat- watches, it’s a very in- clined to reveal the forms in the past year. ternational audience, percentage e-commerce “This is the place to and we see a lot of in- generates of overall be, and that’s the one that teraction here.” sales, electronic volume we’re going to see grow the Behind-the-scenes increased 50 percent be- fastest. Instagram is where content — like photos tween 2011 and 2012. She we’re trying to do more and of shows and models — projects the same growth more,” she said. also resonates well with curve for 2013. The second is divvying up re- users, and Drisko calls Mobile traffic tripled and sources for digital responsibilities. Facebook the “perfect mobile sales doubled from Watches “Allocating new resources medium” in which to 2011 to 2012, with the chan- attract the toward digital becomes an showcase these images. The blog on off, which we don’t tend to do on nel representing 10 percent of most comments additional part of someone’s Nautica saw sig- Nautica’s site. Twitter,” Drisko said. all e-commerce sales last year. on Nautica’s job, whereas it should have nificant growth on this She revealed that the brand plans The company only expects this Facebook page. its own team,” she said. A so- channel from 2011 to 2012, going a total overhaul of its digital flagship number to grow, especially cial media manager and digi- from 550,627 fans in 2011 to 2.7 mil- in the coming months — and while since 40 percent of Nautica’s e-mails tal manager work closely with the lion just one year later. Last June, small updates were made to nautica. are opened on a mobile device. e-commerce team, but the brand is the brand toasted reaching 1 million com last year, the site will look com- A stand-alone mobile app doesn’t looking to increase the size of this followers with its Nautica Millionth pletely different come summer. exist yet, but about 10 apps have been group. “At Nautica, we’re currently Fan initiative. A Facebook follower In addition to enhanced naviga- created on a project basis since 2010, building a full team.” designated as the millionth fan at- tion, search and filtering capabilities, tended the spring 2013 fashion pre- the site will contain user reviews sentation in New York. and recommendations (a feature not In 2010, the brand launched its currently available on nautica.com). Nautica 360 blog, as well as accounts There will be more of an assortment

Nautica’s Facebook page has more than three million fans. A holiday Instagram promotion. Celebrating years on the WATER

Congratulations on 30 Years of Nautical Style and Inspiration 34 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES Making Every Drop Count Nautica puts water in the forefront of Rosalind Drisko, director of to another aquatic-themed marketing communications. organization, pairing with its philanthropic efforts, partnering with So Nautica teamed with Charity: Water, a nonprofit organizations such as Oceana and Charity: Oceana, the largest interna- group dedicated to bringing Water. By Lauren McCarthy tional organization focused clean and safe drinking water solely on ocean conserva- to developing nations. TO SAY THAT Nautica cares water, everywhere, every day.” tion. Based on similar objec- Within this new collabo- about the environment would The apparel brand adopted tives to save and protect the ration, Nautica introduced be just skimming the surface. this mission statement in 2009, world’s oceans, Oceana was an its “Give Change to Make Case in point: the company’s after years of philanthropic obvious match for Nautica’s Change” campaign, allowing mantra, which is “We cel- work lacking “an overarch- aquatic focus, resulting in a customers at the brand’s out- Actor Josh Hopkins (“Cougar Town”) ebrate, love and respect the ing platform,” according to productive partnership that let stores to round up their at the Malibu triathalon. has continued for the past purchases to the nearest dol- three years. The brand is cur- lar, with the extra pennies do- causes it has supported in rently the organization’s larg- nated to Charity: Water. Since years past. In 2008, the brand est corporate sponsor, joining the program was unveiled began the Nautica South other donors including La Mer, in March 2012, funds have Beach Triathlon, held every Christie’s and Burgess. reached more than double April to benefit St. Jude’s Besides financial support, the initial goal. Children’s Research Hospital. Nautica also supports the or- “Our initial goal was For the past 25 years, it has ganization’s efforts with elbow $150,000,” said Drisko. “Then we also been a part of the annual grease. On World Oceans Day, got to a point where we moved it Nautica Malibu Triathlon, for example, Nautica sends up to $250,000. It ended up com- which benefits pediatric cancer 80 employees to help pick up ing in at about $375,000.” research at Children’s Hospital trash along the Hudson River Nautica currently supports Los Angeles. Celebrities near its Manhattan headquar- two countries, Nepal and who have participated in the ters. For those who cannot India, through Charity: Water, races include Jennifer Lopez, attend — the number of vol- providing safe drinking water Matthew McConaughey, Jon unteers is capped each year to needy communities through Cryer and Tom Cruise. due to limited resources — the the installation of sanitary “It started as a small event, company holds events in New water taps and wells. and over time it’s grown to be York and Los Angeles to help Despite its more recent massive,” Drisko said of the bring awareness to the cause. dedication to water-themed Malibu event. “This past year, In January 2012, Nautica charities, the company has we raised $1.2 million in that Morgan Freeman and Ted Danson at an Oceana event. expanded its charitable efforts not turned its back on other one day. [That’s] really amazing.”

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NAUTICA

AS WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY CELEBRATES THE GLOBAL LIFESTYLE BRAND’S 30TH ANNIVERSARY IN ITS MILESTONES ISSUE

Duane Morris LLP, a global law firm with more than 700 attorneys in offices across the For more information, please contact: United States and around the world, is asked by a broad array of clients to provide MICHAEL TILIAKOS innovative solutions to today’s legal and business challenges. Partner Duane Morris LLP | 1540 Broadway | New York, NY 10036 P: 212.692.1045 [email protected] Duane Morris – Firm and Affiliate Offices | New York | London | Singapore | Los Angeles | Chicago | Houston | Hanoi | Philadelphia San Diego | San Francisco | Silicon Valley | Baltimore | Boston | Washington, D.C. | Las Vegas | Atlanta | Miami | Pittsburgh | Newark Boca Raton | Wilmington | Cherry Hill | Lake Tahoe | Ho Chi Minh City | Duane Morris LLP – A Delaware limited liability partnership www.duanemorris.com LEACHENG APPAREL CO., LTD. Congratulates

on 30 Years of Innovation