$'9(57,6(0(17 WWDTHURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 9LQFH&DPXWRFRP 9LQFH&DPXWRFRP MEN’S INSPIRATIONS WWD MILESTONES WHAT SPARKED NEW YORK NAUTICA AT 30 DESIGNERS’ SECTION II IMAGINATIONS FOR FALL. PAGE MW1 PROFITS UP 27.6% Ralph Lauren Plots Retail Expansion By VICKI M. YOUNG RALPH LAUREN Corp. wants more stores for its brands. Taking a cue from the changing dynamics of con- sumer spending from the emerging markets, the com- THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY pany is also eyeing a retail expansion that would see freestanding stores for its Polo, women’s Blue Label, WWD Denim & Supply and children’s businesses, both here and abroad. “We’re articulating more clearly what we’ve begun to see as we go into markets such as the Middle East, Russia and Brazil where vertical stores are the pri- mary retail channel,” Roger Farah, president and chief operating officer, told WWD on Wednesday as the company reported its third-quarter results. The change doesn’t lessen the presence of Ralph Lauren freestanding stores, which are more focused on the high-end luxury Black and Purple collections. While the firm will continue to seek choice locations for Ralph Lauren stores, the additional freestand- ing stores means it will have a broader availability Maiden of sites to cull from to better reach the consumer. According to Farah, most malls in Asia have a wing devoted to kids, and while the firm will still be selec- tive in where its children’s stores will be located, the store sites for that business will be easier to find than when trying to find the ideal real estate for its higher- Voyage end luxury Ralph Lauren stores. “In the past, Denim & Supply and children’s were distributed to department stores, and we would add Marchesa cofounders Georgina Chapman a little of that in our own stores. If you go to Brazil and Keren Craig are familiar with the evening and China, they don’t have the same department store structure, and [as an example] we were underserving portion of the lifestyles of the rich and the demand from the Brazilian consumer when in famous. Now, they’re offering their bohemian- Miami, New York or London,” Farah said. glamour-girl clothes for the daylight hours Also an avenue for future expansion is its accesso- ries business, which is still under development. with Marchesa Voyage, a new contemporary Asked about freestanding accessories stores, line launching for fall. Here, a look from the Farah said, “I think theoretically it could be yes, but collection. For more, see page 4. SEE PAGE 3 Net-a-porter’s Print Mix By SAMANTHA CONTI LONDON — Natalie Massanet always describes the Net-a-porter e-commerce site as a fashion magazine online — and now she’s actually launching one, as well as a print version later this year aimed at rival- ing the likes of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. The Web site, owned by Compagnie Financière Richemont SA, will today unveil phase one of its print and digital magazine project that aims to speak to luxury fashion-focused women, in multiple lan- guages, worldwide. Net-a-porter first will launch a free, weekly online magazine called The Edit, which is available from the site beginning today. The online magazine will have 52 themed editions annually, and will be the sister of an as-yet-unnamed print title that will make its debut in the fall and will come out four to six times a year. The Edit is 30 pages, and features fashion shoots that allow readers to buy directly from the pages, as well as news, features and interviews with women from around the world. It carries a mix of advertis- ing from brands that are stocked by Net-a-porter — as well as from brands that are not, such as Tiffany & Co., Rolex, Harry Winston, Jo Malone, Estée Lauder and W Hotels. In addition to The Edit, Net-a-porter has cre- ated a one-off print magazine, The Collections Special, that offers a taste of the print magazine to be launched this fall. The Edit and The Collections Special feature Natalia Vodianova, shot by Paolo Roversi, on their covers. PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO SEE PAGE 10 2 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2013 Choi to Fly Solo at Jimmy Choo ing their roles well of late, with THE BRIEFING BOX By SAMANTHA CONTI Holloway looking after men’s shoes and accessories, and Choi oversee- IN TODAY’S WWD LONDON — Sandra Choi has be- ing women’s shoes and bags. come the sole creative director of They also had a friendly rela- Jimmy Choo, following the abrupt tionship, and would often attend departure of Simon Holloway. industry and social events togeth- Nicola Formichetti at Choi and Holloway had served er. Last month, Choi and Holloway the Boom Boom Room. as co-creative directors since were in Jimmy Choo’s Milan show- For more, see WWD.com. November 2011, following the room showing editors and buyers departure of the company’s co- the latest men’s collection. founder Tamara Mellon. However, another industry Under the new organization, Sandra Choi source said that the double role Choi will oversee the brand FALK EVAN PHOTO BY of creative director never worked identity and design for all collec- development, including the suc- properly. Choi, the niece of tions, including women’s shoes, cessful launch of both the Jimmy namesake Jimmy Choo, has been handbags, accessories, the re- Choo licensee businesses in fra- with the firm since its inception cently launched men’s shoes and grance and eyewear, and the intro- in 1996, while Holloway was licensed collections, which now duction of the men’s collections. hired in 2010 by Jimmy Choo’s include fragrance and eyewear. We are grateful for all that he has former ceo Joshua Schulman, Pierre Denis, Jimmy Choo’s accomplished at Jimmy Choo and who joined Bergdorf Goodman chief executive, said Wednesday wish him every success in his fu- last year as president. that Holloway, who had been ture endeavors,” Denis said. Jimmy Choo is a division PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY with Jimmy Choo since 2010, de- Holloway’s departure came as of Labelux GmbH, a privately cided to leave the company to a surprise. held luxury goods group. Jimmy Ralph Lauren Corp. wants more stores for its brands and is pursue other interests. Although industry sources said Choo has more than 150 stores also looking to add freestanding stores for its Polo, women’s “During his tenure, Simon it took some time for Choi and in 32 countries. Blue Label, Denim & Supply and children’s businesses. PAGE 1 has contributed greatly to Jimmy Holloway to split up their new re- — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS Choo, both in product and brand sponsibilities, they were manag- FROM MILES SOCHANet-a-Porter today will unveil phase one of its print and digital magazine project that aims to speak to luxury fashion-focused women, in multiple languages, worldwide. PAGE 1 Dolce, Gabbana Tax Hearing Goes On Pacific Sunwear of California Inc. is betting Kendall and Kylie This amount and the fact that it brands, relocated to Luxembourg Jenner’s namesake clothing brand, which is launching Friday, will By LUISA ZARGANI takes into consideration Italy’s tax in 2005 to work for Gado Sarl, the help draw a younger crowd to its stores. PAGE 3 rate, standing at about 37.5 per- designers’ holding company in MILAN — Judge Antonella cent at the time, took center stage that country, which the tax po- The Femmy Awards, which celebrates the achievements of Brambilla presided over an eight- for most of Wednesday’s hearing. lice consider a legal entity used intimate apparel industry leaders worldwide, pulled in a record hour hearing Wednesday as wit- Questions from prosecutors and to avoid higher corporate taxes turnout of 775 guests Tuesday. PAGE 3 nesses called by prosecutors the lawyers for the defendants in Italy. Bergomi, who reported Laura Pedio and Gaetano Ruta — who include managing direc- to Ruella, lived in Luxembourg Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig are launching for fall took the stand in the ongoing trial tor and board member Cristiana until December 2006, when she Marchesa Voyage, a contemporary collection done in partnership of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Ruella and Dolce’s brother and returned to Milan. She was the with LF USA. PAGE 4 Gabbana, who are charged with board member Alfonso Dolce, both only Dolce & Gabbana employee omitted and unfaithful earnings once again present at the hearing in that country, and was suc- An innovative intellectual property rights lawsuit against declarations. The defendants — revolved around the consultan- ceeded by Claudia Bertinetti. In garment makers in China and India is causing some have denied the charges. cy’s choice of Italy’s tax rate in the her job, Bergomi was assisted consternation in the business in Beijing. PAGE 8 Of note was the testimony of evaluation of the brand, as well as by Alter Domus, a Luxembourg- Marco Tanzi Marrotti, an execu- the expected growth of royalties. based agency that helped provide Deborah Needleman’s first issue of T: The New York Times tive of PricewaterhouseCoopers, Mario Ambrosetti, a services. Dealing with lawyers, Style Magazine will make its debut Feb. 17. PAGE 10 the consultancy tapped by Dolce PricewaterhouseCoopers corpo- investigators and anticounterfeit rate finance director, remembered experts, Bergomi registered, con- and Gabbana to set a price for The Court of Florence determined that Prada’s allegations of their brands in spring 2003. “I that the possibility of setting up a trolled and “maintained alive” tortious interference were unfounded in Gucci’s 2001 acquisition was told that the designers were company in Luxembourg emerged about 1,600 brands for the group looking at the possibility of pub- at the time, “although it was not a in more than 80 countries around of Italian footwear manufacturer Regain.