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Japanese Fabrics and the Evolution of the Kimono

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Japanese Fabrics and the Evolution of the Kimono Feature FABULOUS FABRICS Japanese Fabrics and the Evolution of the Kimono Nagasaki Iwao, Professor in the Department of Textile and Clothing at Kyoritsu Women’s University court attire in China. Junihitoe, the formal court dress of women at this time comprising multiple abric weaving and dyeing techniques have layers of colorful mon-orimono, is representa- a long history in Japan and have been inte- tive of this style. On the other hand, common folk Fgral to the development of a unique fashion mainly wore clothing made from hemp, until cot- culture epitomized by the kimono. We spoke with ton became common in the seventeenth century. Nagasaki Iwao, a Professor in the Department of During the Muromachi period (1336–1573), the Textile and Clothing at Kyoritsu Women’s Univer- wearing of silk kosode, garments with cylindri- sity, about the historical characteristics of Japa- cal sleeves with small openings, precursor to the nese fabrics and clothing. modern kimono, became common among women in the samurai class. And in the Edo period (1603– When does the history of Japanese fabrics begin? 1867), kimono fashion blossomed, based on the We don’t know exactly when fabrics were first kosode. made in Japan, but we assume that fabrics were initially created for use as clothing to protect Why did the wearing of colorful kimono become the body and later came to be used for a variety so widespread in the Edo period? of purposes. It is thought that during the Jomon One important reason is that Edo-period society period (from 10,000 BCE until the start of the was peaceful for around 300 years and people’s Yayoi period), the main raw material for making lifestyles improved. Not just the aristocracy fabric was hemp. In the Yayoi period (10th century and the samurai class, but also ordinary people BCE–300 CE), silk came to be used, drawing on became able to dress fashionably depending on silk making techniques introduced from mainland their financial strength. In particular, the splendor China and the Korean peninsula. of women’s kimono increased through improve- As fabric weaving skills developed, the materi- ments in dyeing techniques such as plant dyeing als and techniques used for making clothes came with indigo. From the latter half of the seven- to reflect the wearer’s social class. In the sev- teenth century, yuzenzome dyeing was devised enth and eighth centuries, for example, ornate as a way to hand-draw patterns onto fabrics. mon-orimono figured silken garments came to be Using this method, it became possible to express worn by the aristocracy. These robes, with their scenery and other complex designs, and the vari- extremely long hemlines and wide sleeves, were ety of figured patterns increased. Kimono and adopted to represent authority, influenced by the their designs played a very large role even in the Photo: Sawaji Osamu 6 | highlighting japan Japonism that came into fashion in Europe from Furoshiki wrapping cloths have gained attention the end of the nineteenth century through the in recent years for their use as alternatives to dis- start of the twentieth century. In the Meiji period posable shopping bags. Tell us about the origins (1868–1912), visitors to Japan bought Edo-period of furoshiki. kimono, noh i costumes, and other dyed and Fabrics have been used to wrap objects in Japan woven textiles in large quantities and took them since the distant past. Wrapping an object in cloth back to their home countries. These then became makes it easier to carry, but it is thought that it the collections at the Museum of Fine Arts, Bos- also had the religious significance of keeping a ton and the Museo d’Arte Orientale in Venice valuable item clean and pure. Even today, it can be where I am involved in research and classification, said that wrapping gifts in furoshiki is a holdover and their high value as works of art is recognized. from this. The word “furoshiki” (“furo” means Beginning in the Meiji period, western-style “bath” and “shiki” means “to spread”) dates from clothing became common as modernization the Edo period (1603–1867), when people started progressed in Japan, and opportunities to wear using wrapping cloths to carry a change of clothes kimono decreased for Japanese people. How- and prevent their belongings from getting mixed ever, in the last ten years or so, new ways of wear- up with those of other bathers in communal bath- ing kimono, such as wearing them directly over houses. All wrapping cloths later came to be called western-style clothing, have been proposed, and furoshiki. more and more young people think that kimono are interesting. In what fields might Japanese fabric manufactur- ers make a contribution to life in the future? What kinds of differences are there between tra- Using Japan's advanced fabric-manufacturing ditional western-style clothing and kimono? techniques, we can surely contribute to the Western-style clothing is cut and sewn three- medical and welfare fields by creating cloth- dimensionally to match the body’s curves, but ing for people with sensitive skin or eczema, kimono are cut and sewn flat without regard to for example, or by creating comfortable cloth- the body’s curves. For western-style clothing, it ing that can be put on and taken off easily, using has been important to accentuate the body’s sil- kimono-making techniques, for elderly people houette through clothing; for example, women or the infirm. Japan has long made fabrics using shaped their bodies by squeezing them with cor- natural dyes and fibers. In recent years, natural sets when wearing dresses. But in Japan, impor- materials have been gaining attention for many tance has been placed on the beauty of the worn reasons, including their natural colors, gentle kimono itself rather than the silhouette of the textures, and minimal environmental burden. body, and so fabrics were refined to be more beau- Understanding the needs of modern-day society tiful, which led to the development of sophisti- to protect the environment, I think we can apply cated techniques in weaving and dyeing. the traditional dyeing and weaving techniques of As Japan is blessed with abundant nature, Japan not just to kimono but also to a variety of kimono are quite often defined by the plant motifs uses, including western-style clothing and inte- in their figured patterns. They also feature designs rior design. based on scenes from literature such as The Tale of Genji or The Tales of Ise. Such complex designs are Interview by SAWAJI OSAMU not commonly found in western-style clothing. i Noh is a form of musical and dance drama that has been performed in Japan for over 650 years. SEPTEMBER 2020 | 7.
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