SUMMARY OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION 1

OVIEDO 4 GIJÓN 7

INTINERARIES: The Eastern route 10 The The coastal route 12 The The Western route 14 Dublin United Kingdom Other routes 16 HOW TO GET THERE, WHERE TO EAT AND STAY 18

LEISURE AND ENTERTAINMENT 20 USEFUL ADDRESSES 23

France

Cantabrian Sea

Asturias

Madrid Portugal

Spain Lisboa Mediterranean Sea

Ceuta

Rabat Morocco Atlantic Ocean

Canary Islands MAR CANTÁBRICO

Playa de Cabo de Peñas San Playa de Santa Ría de Avilés Bañugues de María del Mar C Cabo Vidio O Ría del Eo Puerto Cabo Busto Viavélez Ortiguera Ría de S de Castañedo Salinas Antromero Candás T 634 Navia Musel A P Canero Cadavedo Avilés La Caridad Artedo El Pito Playa de San Lorenzo Luarca 632 A-8 V Prendes GIJÓN Ta z o n e s Cabo E Muros RíaEl de VillaviciosaPuntal CORUÑA 135 km CORUÑA Ta baza P Coaña Arbòn del Venta D A La Veguiña Brieves de Nalón Nubledo Serín Barco Pentanes del Pobre Lastres E Cueva de Lagar Pravia Vega 632 La Vega 640 634 Vegafriosa San Román Pedroso Villayón de Candamo A-66 Villaviciosa Pto. de 650 Valdedios Rozada Posada Anes Playa de BarroPlaya de de Abrés Cueva de Villahormes Noreña Collada Libardón Mirador SANTANDER 67 km Tito Bustillo 634 Celorio Bárcena La Espina Lugones El Sueve del Fito Llovio Bres Valdedo Santa Eulalia 1161 Llanes del Monasterio OVIEDO Pola de Collía Llamigo Posada Pechón Hospital Cueva de Arriondas el Buxu La Franca Nava Puente de San Martín 634 P Avín de Oscos San Martín Gera El Crucero Las Caldas San Martín Cangas Rozagas Alles de Oscos Murielos Pola de Soto de Riaño Soto de Cangas o a La Florida Infiesto i Porcilles de Onís Benia Prado E R s v Ribera re a Villanueva í ío a o C

LUGO 70 km R Santa Eulalia N Santa Carreña de Arenas a Panes ev de Oscos Eulalia Cabrales de Cabrales D Grandas Ye r m e s Lago Enol Pola de Sebarga Lago Ercina de Salime a El Entrego Sames Poncebos e c La Hermida r Caranga La Vega R í S a Villabre o e Naranjo de N Rioseco l P la I 2519 Aguamestas Bárzana C Caín A Cangas O S P Emb.de D R O Salime Fuentes de La Regla de Pola Cabañaquinta 625 E E U N o las Montañas a Beleño Posada de í de Lena La ló R 1890 Aller n Potes 1766 Valdeón Villanueva C Fuente Dé Las Mestas a PARQUE NATURAL Monasterio u A Ta r n a Oseja de P d C DE REDES Pola de a I Felechosa del o l Campomanes í Villar de R Pto. de Sajambre 1490 621 R R A Á B San Antolín Vidas L E T Ventanueva Vallado I L C A N Puerto de 1520 de C San Isidro O R D Tu i z a Puente de Centenales Pto. de los Fierros 1525 1486 2417 Burón Pto. de 1379 Pto. de Rañadoiro Pto. de Puebla ío Ib Somiedo Peña Ubiña Pajares HighwayAutopista R ias 1181 2189 de Lillo VALGRANDE-PAJARES Freeway 630 Embalse Autovía Braña Caballo de Riaño National road Emb. Riaño Carretera nacional Luiña Degaña Piedrafita de Porma ÇAÈCtra. Road Red básica 1er orden Sil 1969 ÇBÈCtra. Road Red básica 2º orden de Luna

Becerreá R LocalCarretera Road local Miravalles í Emb. Barrios o RailwayFerrocarril CORUÑA 140 km CORUÑA ío de Luna Embalse A R Boñar de VelillaP (State-run hotel) Shrine-MonasterySantuario-Monasterio N-VI CastleCastillo La Robla Guardo MonumentMonumento HistoricRuinas históricasruins Pedrafita La Magdalena N CavesCuevas do Cebreiro B e NationalParque Nacional Park r n a l e s Nature Reserve

Toreno s Parque Natural R E g ío a CampCamping site SkiEstación resort de esquí GolfCampo course de golf Villafranca A-66 Escala 1 : 800.000 P del Bierzo SpaBalneario Ó

N-VI r ío Marina b R Puerto deportivo

0 10 20 30 Km i g P o LighthouseFaro CARTOGRAFêA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35 Torre LEÓN AirportAeropuerto Tel. 91 416 73 41 - 28002 - AÑO 2000 del Bierzo

LEÓN 36 km 236 km 201 km INTRODUCTION

The of Asturias is a verdant, unending feast of scenery. In this region of northern Spain, sea and mountainside meet in a world of abrupt contours, exuberant nature, rolling forests, and scores of small towns and villages dotted about a terrain that is a joy to the senses. Seventy-eight make up a region that covers over 10,500 square Pindal Cave, rock painting kilometres (some 4,000 sq. miles), with a 375-kilometre strip of coastline. To the south lies the Province of León, to the West that History: of Lugo, and to the East, . Heirs of the Palaeolithic The massif has acted as an nigh impassable To trace Asturias’ historical origins barrier. To the north, the Atlantic one has to travel far back in time. swell of the Bay of pummels To the Palaeolithic, the age the coastal cliffs, forming hundreds of the great cave painters. The of beaches...secluded, capriciously caves of Candamo, El Buxu, El carved beaches, small coves of Pindal or Tito Bustillo, among white sand and weathered rock. others, stand in mute testimony Two very different faces of to this culture. When, many Asturias, and, there between the centuries later, the two, lies metropolitan Asturias: sought to colonise these lands, its Oviedo, the capital (population envoys came up against warrior 200,000), Gijón, the largest city tribes with a lifestyle not far (population 270,000), and Avilés, removed from that of their an industrial and fishing centre Palaeolithic forebears. They fished (population 90,000). In addition, and hunted much like their there are the two mining capitals: ancestors, they moved about in Langreo and Mieres. clans, clothed themselves in furs and skins, paid homage to the deities of Nature and rebelled against the very notion of foreign Ultimately, Asturias was rule or authority. These were the Romanised, though never entirely. Asturs. The Moorish invasion left few The Asturs were exponents of the scars on the Principality. Once so-called culture. These again, the Astur tribes halted the (fortified encampments) advance of an invading army with were both places of abode and the aid of a broken and difficult defence: circular stone dwellings, terrain. The legend is told of how, with straw roofs, surrounded by in the 8th century, a local stout walls. This has chieftain of noble blood, Pelayo left abundant examples in by name, defeated the Moorish forces at the , on the site of which there now stands a shrine that has become a regional symbol. Indeed, it was this battle that heralded the beginning of the Reconquest and the birth of the Asturian monarchy. Many years have since elapsed, but the echoes of those bygone days haunt the land: the famine of medieval times, the uprising of the Asturian people during the Peninsula War, the massive exodus of the emigration years, the industrialisation that took place toward the close of the last Cave of Tito Bustillo, rock painting. century... A past that is kept alive Ribadesella through traditions, folklore and customs: ancestral Asturias, the best being the dances, such as the Corri-corri of Coaña castro, in the West of the the Cabrales district or El Pericote region. When, after three from Llanes; dishes that hail from hard-fought wars, the Romans another age, such as the local were finally able to set about casseroles (potes), the famed their cultural and economic fabada ( of haricot beans, colonisation of the Asturs, they and ), or the blue- looked to this people’s land for its veined Cabrales cheese, left to precious metals, and to its mature in natural mountainside menfolk for skilled warriors to caves; a past that is to be seen in man the Imperial legions. the local architecture, in the

2 mansions built by the “indianos” (expatriate who, having left to seek fame and fortune in America, returned with their newfound wealth), and in the hórreos (narrow, stone, house-like gran-aries supported on squat piles) standing alongside many a country homestead, which together constitute Asturias’ most important architectural heritage. A past that has also bequeathed a local tongue, known as bable. This however is neither standardised nor in generalised use, and is heard mostly in country districts. Asturias has a population of 1,100,000, a mild climate and plentiful rainfall. Temperatures average around 12°C in winter (except in mountain areas) and 16°C-18°C in summer.

Oviedo

Faculty of Philosophy and letters, statue of Father Feijoo. Oviedo

3 OVIEDO In the shadow of its Cathedral

Oviedo is a city that is ideal for exploring on foot. A good part of it historic Old Quarter is a pedestrian precinct. The starting point for the tour is the Cathedral Square (Plaza) (1), laid out beneath the imposing steeple of its Gothic church. , built in the 16th century, stands guard over one of Christianity’s Oviedo City Hall treasures, the Cámara Santa, designed as a shrine for a coffer of Calle (calle, street) is holy relics -the - along home to the Asturian with the Angel Cross (Cruz de los Archaeological Museum (2). Angeles) and Pelayo’s reputed Cross Opening times: Tuesday to Saturday, of Victory (Cruz de la Victoria), an 10 a.m. - 1:30 p.m. and 4 - 6 p.m. insignia which forms part of the Sundays and Public Holidays, 11 a.m. - Asturian coat of arms. 1 p.m. * 98 521 54 05. Rooms are The interior of Oviedo Cathedral divided into Roman,pre-Romanesque -Flamboyant Gothic in style- is and Gothic. truly impressive. The altarpiece is Feijoo Square, the Monastery of San considered one of the most exquisite Pelayo (3) and the Church of St. in Spain. The 11th-century polychrome Mary the Royal (Santa María la Real) stone statue of the Saviour, cloister, (4) are hedged round by narrow, Chapter House and pilgrims’ garden bustling streets and alleyways. On one graveyard are other points to see in of these streets, La Rúa, stands the this church with its single, soaring Provincial Fine Arts Gallery (Bellas steeple and spire. Artes) (5), housing a fine collection of Opening times: 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 4 - 16th-century European and Spanish 7 p.m. (summer, 4 - 8 p.m.). Closed paintings and 19th- and 20th-century Sundays and Public Holidays. The Asturian art. Opening times: Tuesday Cathedral Museum may also be to Saturday, 10:30 a.m. - 1:30 p.m. and visited. Opening 5 - 8 p.m. Saturdays, Sundays and times: Monday to Friday, 10 a.m. - Public Holidays, 11:30 a.m. - 2 p.m. 1 p.m. and 4 - 7 p.m. Saturdays, 10 a.m. * 98 521 30 61. - 1 p.m. and 4 - 6:30 p.m. (summer, 4 - In the Old Quarter, one finds many of 8p.m.). * 98 520 31 17. the city’s most traditional shops, wine The streets surrounding the Cathedral bars (tascas) and dealers in antiques have a very traditional flavour. The and religious items. A stone’s throw

4 from the Calle de Cimadevilla is the Theatre (10), which houses the Plaza de la Constitución, with the City Centre of Modern Art in its basement, Hall (Ayuntamiento) (6), which in its and what was formerly Santa Clara first incarnation, dates from the 17th Convent (11), today home to the century, and St. Isidore’s Church Inland Revenue Deparment. Facing the (San Isidoro) (7) (16th- and 17th- nearby Calle de San Francisco is the century). Nearby is Fontán Market historic edifice that is Oviedo (8), currently undergoing restoration, University (12), founded in the 16th and the Plaza del Fontán, the heart of century by the Inquisitor, Fernando de Oviedo’s Old Quarter, a small yet Valdés Salas. Visitors are welcome. stunning square, enclosed by arcades Around the corner in the Plaza de that lend it a genuine medieval air Porlier, the façades of the (13) (note: the square is scheduled for and Camposagrado Palaces (14) are restoration in 1997). A street market is well worth seeing. held on Thursday, Saturday and The Calle de Uría, the shopping Sunday mornings. centre of modern Oviedo, runs as far San Francisco Park (Campo de San as the railway station. Just off the Francisco), which traces its origins as Calle de Uría are other streets of far back as the 13th century, acts as commercial interest, such as the Calle the city’s “lungs”. In the area around de Conde de Toreno, , the Plaza de La Escandalera, a number Doctor Casal, Palacio Valdés, Milicias of singular buildings are to be found, Nacionales and Gil de Jaz. On this last such as the Caja de Asturias, the street stands another of the city’s Regional Palace (9), seat of the landmark buildings, the old Principality’s Regional Council, Provincial Hospital (Hospicio Asturias’ most important political Provincial) (15), dating from the 18th body, and, in the neighbouring Calle century and now converted into a de Fruela, the former Banco Herrero luxury hotel. Its Baroque façade is building, with its notable façade. emblasoned with an impressive Adjoining La Escandalera Square rise Spanish coat of arms. Visitors are the silhouettes of the Campoamor welcome to go inside and savour the

Plaza de la Escandalera. Oviedo courtyards and atmosphere. Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. Oviedo can boast the world’s leading Closed Sundays afternons. There is no examples of pre-, entrance fee on Mondays, but no three of which are a “must”. The guided tours are provided. San Miguel Church of St. Julian in the Fields de Lillo, Santa María del Naranco, (San Julián de los Prados) (16) is to be , the Cámara found at the entrance to the city, Santa, San Julián de los Prados and beside the highway linking Oviedo the Foncolada Fountain have all been with Gijón and Avilés. Opening times: officially granted World Heritage Site Tuesday to Saturday, 9:30 a.m. - 12 status by UNESCO. There are yet more noon. Sundays and Public Holidays, 4 - examples of pre-Romanesque in the 6 p.m. closed Mondays. It dates from area: in the very centre of the city is the 9th century and, in its interior, the Foncala da Fountain (19); in Las houses some magnificent frescoes. Regueras, some 13 kilometres from On the slopes of Mount Naranco, just Oviedo, the Church of San Pedro de three kilometres outside Oviedo, Nora (20); and, on the old road to stands Santa María del Naranco Langreo, about 5 kilometres from the (17), a small summer palace built by city, the Church of Santa María de King Ramiro I in the 9th century. Santa Bendones (21). María is another of the Principality’s landmarks. A short distance off is (18), a royal chapel dating from the same time. Opening times for Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo:

Chapel of San Miguel de Lillo. Oviedo

6 GIJÓN the former Pescadería (fish market), Facing out to sea today an administrative centre, and the Gijón Jovellanos Birthplace Gijón is a seafaring and industrial city. Museum (Museo Casa Natal de Its historic old part is centred on the Jovellanos) (3), housing collections of Fishermen’s Quarter of Cimadevilla. Asturian paintings and a recreation of Cimadevilla separates the city’s two the house of Gaspar Melchor de sweeping beaches, San Lorenzo and Jovellanos, the 18th-century politician Poniente. Facing out to sea from a and writer who was the leading point adjoining the Cimadevilla figure in Spain’s Age of district is Eduardo Chillida’s impressive Enlightenment (Ilustración) and

Partial view of Gijón harbour sculpture, entitled Elogio del remains as a constant reference point Horizonte (In praise of the Horizon) in the street names and history of (1). The “Elogio” is Gijón’s tourist Gijón. landmark and is situated on the Opening times: Tuesday to Saturday, Santa Catalina headland, site of an 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 5 - 8 p.m. erstwhile military fortress and now Sundays and Public Holidays, 11 a.m. converted into a park. On the other -2 p.m. Closed Mondays. side of the hill, is the local quay-side * 98 534 63 13. St. Peter’s Church and marina. Fronting onto the (San Pedro) (4) stands at one end of cobbled and semi-arcaded Plaza the bay. From here, the way now Mayor (main square) is the 19th- leads into the adjoining Roman century City Hall (Ayuntamiento) Baths Museum (5). An explanatory (2). Adjacent to it are the buildings of tour makes it possible for one to

7 Revillagigedo Palace and monument to Don Pelayo. Gijón imagine what daily life at the baths can visit the Barjola Museum (8), was like during the first centuries of with its display of contemporary the present era. Restored sections of painting and sculpture. Opening the Roman wall can be seen. Opening times: Tuesday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m. times: Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. - - 1:30 p.m. and 5 - 8 p.m. Sundays 1 p.m. and 5 - 8 p.m. Sundays and and Public Holidays, 12 - 2 p.m. Public Holidays, 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. Closed Mondays. * 98 535 79 39. Closed Mondays. * 98 534 51 47. A few yards further on is the Clock Going for a stroll along the Muro de Tower (Torre del Reloj) (9), which San Lorenzo esplanade (6) is very houses the local historic archives and much a local tradition -as is strolling is open to visitors. The Paseo de along the Calle Corrida, the city’s Begoña is one of Gijón’s meeting main business and shopping avenue. points. On Begoña, just by the Corrida Street begins at the quayside, Jovellanos Theatre (10), is the Café crosses the Plaza del Carmen and Dindurra, the best example of its kind continues down to the Plaza del Seis in a city well supplied with old-style de Agosto. A short walk from the cafés. Gijón is the café city. Just off beginning of Corrida Street brings Begoña, lies the Church of San one to Revillagigedo Palace and Lorenzo (11), dating from the early the Collegiate Church of St. John part of this century. Also nearby is the the Baptist (San Juan Bautista) (7), Church of the Sacred Heart where exhibitions of modern art are (Sagrado Corazón) (12), on Calle held. In the Calle de La Trinidad, one Jovellanos. The Nicanor Piñole Art

8 Gallery (13) is in the Plaza de Europa inhabitants. Located in the centre of and is open to the public at the the city is the Railway Museum following times: Tuesday to Saturday, (16), a retrospective look at the 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 5 - 8 p.m. Sundays history of Asturian industrialisation. and Public Holidays, 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. Visits can be arranged by Closed Mondays. * 98 535 95 94. appointment, * 98 530 85 75. At the A good way from the centre, though Asturias Trade Fair Showgrounds a only a short distance from Gijón itself, visit can be paid to the there remain two tourist sights that Ethnographic Museum of the are a “must”. Somió, a wealthy Asturian People (17), with its out upper middle-class suburb, is the site door recreation of rural architecture of the Evaristo Valle Art Gallery in the Principality. In the Asturias (14) and its fine gardens, complete Pavilion is the Bagpipe (Gaita) with tropical trees. Opening times: Museum (18), the bagpipe being the Tuesday to Saturday, 4 - 6 p.m. region’s traditional musical Sundays and Publi Holidays, 12 - instrument. Opening times: Tuesday 2 p.m. * 98 533 40 00. Continuing to Saturday, 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 5 - through Somió and taking the old 8 p.m. Sundays, 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. road to Santander, one comes across * 98 533 22 44. the Universidad Laboral (15), a polytechnic and agricultural col-lege, and one of Spain’s most imposing Elogio del Horizonte (In praise of the Horizon) sculpture by Chillida. Gijón buildings. Granite and marble go to form the structure’s essential components. A good part of the campus is open to the public.Other points of interest: the Campa Torres archaeological park overlooking Gijón’s industrial harbour, El Musel. The Campa marks the site of the first primitive settlement of Gijón’s earliest

9 ITINERARIES

strongly advised to call ahead of the The Eastern route intended date, * 98 586 11 20. The point of departure for this route Taking the N-634, the route heads for is Lastres, a town in the Colunga Llanes. Asturias’ best beaches are district which retains the imprint of its now within reach, including, among seafaring past: in its day, it was a others, those of San Antolín, Torimbia, whaling port. Ribadesella is a Barro, Celorio, Poo, Sablón and Toró. summer resort town. A bridge divides Llanes was founded in the early years the fishing harbour from the beach. of the 13th century. There is a town The first Saturday in August, this wall and medieval tower, a bridge acts as the finishing post for picturesque port and a beach. A series what is perhaps Asturias’ most

CANTABRIAN SEA Lastres

Ribadesella

634 Arriondas

Llanes Infiesto Cangas Carreña de Onís de Cabrales Colombres Covadonga Arenas 114 ana Panes de Cabrales

representative festive event, the of charming towns and villages are Descent of the River Sella by Canoe dotted about the district. Continuing (Descenso en Piragua del Sella). along the N-634 towards Santander Ribadesella offer the chance of seeing one arrives in Colombres, home to the nearby Cave of Tito Bustillo, the Indianos Archives. This museum one of ’s gems in terms of cave tells the story of Asturian emigration, painting. Opening times: summer, a fascinating journey that transports 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 3:30 - 5:15 p.m. one through time and space to the Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. . Opening times: Monday to There is a daily maximum quota of Friday, 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. and 4 - 7 p.m. 400 visitors and the caves are only * 98 541 20 05. One now heads for open to the public from 1st April to Panes and thence to , 30th September. Visitors are therefore following the course of the prodigious

10 River along district road AS-114. visit the Cave of Our Lady (Santa Before reaching Cangas de Onís, the Cueva), with its image of the Santina - Cabrales district awaits discovery. the Virgin of the Battlefield and From its main town, Carreña de patron saint of Asturias- the Basílica Cabrales,the visitor -weather and Museum. From Covadonga, a permitting- can get one of the best further 12-kilometre climb along a views of the upward-jutting rockface superbly scenic road, brings one out at of the massy . The the Lakes Enol and Ercina (alt. 4,000 ft.) Cares Gorge (Garganta del Cares) is Once here, those interested are also nearby. This is the mountain welcome to take a look around the outing best known to all Asturians, a Picos de Europa National Park nature score or more kilometres of narrow study and visitor reception centre road that tortuously winds along the * 98 584 86 14. Returning to Cangas defile between Poncebos and Posada de Onís, one takes the N-534 to de Valdeón (Province of León). Cangas Arriondas and Infiesto, with the has a hump-backed medieval bridge- Range for company. known as the Roman Bridge (Puente The Sueve mountain country provides Romano)- and the Sante Cruz the last refuge for herds of Asturcón dolmen, an ancient tomb beneath a horses, the native breed which goes chapel of the same name. In the back a thousand years or so. environs of Cangas is the Buxu Cave, Near Arriondas, on the Colunga road, with its rock paintings : There is a is the look-out point known as the daily maximum quota of 25 visitors. Mirador del Fito. * 98 594 00 54 or 608 17 54 67. Distances in kilometres from Oviedo: Taking the AS-262, one starts up the Colombres (136); Llanes (102); 7-kilometre ascent to the Covadonga Ribadesella (84); Panes (126); Cangas Shrine (Santuario), cradle of the de Onís (72); Arriondas (65); Infiesto Reconquest. In Covadonga, one can (45); Lastres (63).

Covadonga Lakes. Picos de Europa National Park The coastal route Church of Sabugo, and the modern Church of St. Thomas of Canterbury. Cape Peña which juts out to sea, As regards civic architecture, Avilés marks a sudden, even surprising, can offer the Valdecarzana and change in the coastline. To get to Camposagrado palaces and Palacio Peñas the best thing is to visit two Valdés Theatre. seaside towns en route, Candás and After passing through Salinas, a Luanco. In Luanco one finds the residential seaside resort built along Asturias Maritime Museum. Opening one of the longest beaches on this times: Tuesday to Saturday, 11 a.m. - stretch of coast (where a visit can be 1 p.m. and 5 - 7 p.m. Sundays and paid to the open-air Anchor Public Holidays, 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. Museum), the N-632 leads on to * 98 588 01 01. Lying on the far Cudillero, a fishing town perched side of the Cape is Avilés, Asturias’ on an narrow inlet, with its houses third biggest city and site of the picturesquely huddled along the country’s most important iron and harbourside. Situated in El Pito, just steel industry. The town centre has a kilometre or two from Cudillero, is its share of attractions: the the Palacio de los , currently pedestrian precincts marked out by undergoing work prior to being Calle Galiana and Calle Rivero, the opened to the public. The road runs Plaza de España with the City Hall on to Luarca, a town of white building, the venerable 13th-century houses: in themselves, the local

Cudillero lighthouse, Atalaya (watchtower) chapel and cliffside graveyard, alone justify a visit. Puerto Vega, Navia and Tapia de Casariego take the traveller to the point where Asturias ends and begins. The Navia municipal area borders on the Coaña district. In the village of , one finds the Coaña castro, a pre-Roman settlement site, excavated for the greater part and in very good state of preservation. This is definitely a “must”. Summer visiting hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. - 2:30 p.m., and 4 - 7:30 p.m. Closed Mondays. Wednesdays, no entrance charge. Visiting hours from 1st October to 31st March: Tuesday to Palace of the Marquess de Ferrera. Avilés Sunday, 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. and 4 - 5:30 p.m. There is a small museum on-site. kilometres from Oviedo: Candás (37), Separated by the River Eo estuary, Luanco (42), Avilés (28), Cudillero Asturias and Galicia are linked by the (55), Luarca (100), Tapia de Casariego impressive Santos Bridge. On the (141), Navia (121), Castropol (152). banks of the estuary, two charming towns lie open to the sea, Figueras and Castropol. Distances in

CANTABRIAN SEA Cabo de Peñas Tapia de Puerto Luanco Casariego Salinas Figueras Navia de Vega Cudillero Candás 632 AVILÉS A- 8 Castropol Coaña Luarca GIJÓN

A-66

OVIEDO

13 The Western route monuments that go to make up Asturias’ treasure trove of pre- Romanesque art, St. John’s Basilica From Oviedo, take the N-634 bound (San Juan), built by King Silo in the for Grado, a town with an years 774-785. interesting Old Quarter and a Going from Pravia via the AS-235 rather special country market on one gets to San Román de Sunday mornings. En route to Candamo and one of the Cornellana, the road crosses one of highlights of the Principality’s Spain’s best salmon streams, the cultural and artistic heritage, the La River Narcea. The salmon-fishing Peña de Candamo Cave. Those season lasts from March to the wishing to arrange a visit should beginning of summer. One soon Kindly call the the Town Hall on arrives in Salas, site of the * 985 82 80 56. This grotto is a Collegiate Church of St. Mary Major veritable shrine to the Upper (Santa María la Mayor), medieval Palaeolithic, with a profusion of tower and house of Valdés Salas. cave paintings, some classed as Branching off down local road among the world’s finest examples AS-225, a drive of some 20 kilometres of rock art. Visits are very much brings one to Pravia, ancient capital restricted in order to preserve the of the Court of the Asturian Kings, “health” of the murals, which were with its Collegiate church and painted over a lengthy period of Moutas Palace. Situated in time dating from 18,000 - 3,000 B.C. , on the banks of the River A return to Salas is in order before Nalón, is another of the setting out on a different road in the direction of Tineo, gateway to the westernmost reaches of the River . Somiedo Nature Reserve region. Hidden worlds lead to , the Los Oscos district with its unique architecture, Taramundi and . Further south, lies Cangas de Narcea and the Corias Monastery. Mantling the Cangas de Narcea and Ibias areas is the Muniellos Nature Reserve, a vast

14 CANTABRIAN SEA AVILÉS

Pravia GIJÓN San Román 225 634 de Candamo Salas Grado Tineo OVIEDO

Pola de Allande

Cangas de Pola de Narcea Somiedo indigenous forest stretching over Oviedo: Grado (26); Salas (47); an area of more than 50 square Tineo (70); Pola de Allande (104); kilometres and constituting the San Martín de Oscos (192); Cangas largest oak forest (Quercus petraea de Narcea (99); and Quercus robur) in mainland (85); Taramundi (183); Pravia (42); Spain and one of best conserved in - Candamo (28); Teverga Europe. Visits are restricted to (42); (26). twenty or so persons per day. Those interested in visiting the park should kindly call the Regional Natural Resources Authority (Dirección General de Recursos Naturales) at * 98 510 55 45. Muniellos is not the sole instance of virgin territory. Bordering Cangas de Narcea, the Somiedo district boasts the Somiedo Nature Reserve, an extensive swathe of woodland and lakes. The Park Reception Centre (* 98 576 37 58) is in Pola de Somiedo. For those who wish to be in closer contact with Nature, in Corias Monastery. Cangas de Narcea the neighbouring districts of Teverga, and Proaza an abandoned railway track has been converted into a cycling route dubbed the ‘‘Bear Trail’’. Distances in kilometres from OTHER ROUTES The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago

Oviedo Cathedral was the historic focal point for the Asturian Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago (), which entered via Llanes and its Monastery Church of San Antolín de Bedón and wound on, The route past Ribadesella, Villaviciosa, Nava, Valdediós and Oviedo, among other Villaviciosa is one of the region’s places. From the Asturian capital, chief apple production centres. The the Way then headed towards El Gaitero plant (visits by Grado, Cornellana (with its appointment. * 98 589 01 00) has monastery founded by the Order of been a traditional exporter of Cluny), Salas, Tineo, Allande and sparkling cider to America. Its cellars . A variant of the and gigantic casks are worth taking Way kept parallel to the coast, time out to see. Head along district going from Cudillero to the Galician road 113 in the direction of border on the estuary of the River Valdediós, site of the 9th-century Eo. The whole of Asturias is Church of the Saviour (San profoundly coloured by the Camino Salvador), one of Asturias’ pre- de Santiago, with small wayside Romanesque jewels and an import- churches and chapels and venerable ant reference point on the Pilgrims’ pilgrims’ hospices sounding a Way, the route travelled by constant reminder. medieval pilgrims to . District road 250 and an 11-kilometre drive through woods and small villages brings one to Nava, the cider capital. The Cider Museum, opened in 1996, * 98 571 74 22. Distances in kilometres from Oviedo: Villaviciosa (42); Nava (31).

Cider

16 The mining route Leaving Langreo and its industrial belt behind, the AS-111 speeds, on Asturias holds out the promise of one to Mieres (12 kilometres). The last itinerary of interest. This is the town’s focal centre is the Plaza de route through the mines, which have Requejo, with its array of cider played such a vital role in the taverns. Close by, in the town of Principality’s history. Taking the Insierto, is the 18th-century Shrine AS-251, some 30 kilometres separates of the Martyrs of Valdecuna. The Nava from ,leading highway links Mieres with Pola de into mining Asturias and onwards to Lena, on the outskirts of which the industrial landscapes of the stands Santa Cristina, a stunning

Church of Santa Cristina de Lena. Pola de Lena

Caudal and Nalón river valleys. One pre-Romanesque church built by soon comes to El Entrego, site of the King Ordoño I. Summer opening Mining Museum, where one can enter times: 11 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 4:30 - a mock-up re-created for the visitor, 6 p.m. Closed Mondays. November and experience the smells and noises to April, 12 - 1 p.m. and 4 - 5 p.m. of a real working pit. Opening times: Distances in kilometres from Oviedo: Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Langreo (22); Mieres (20); Pola de and 4 - 7 p.m. Sundays, 10 a.m. - Laviana (33); Pola de Lena (33). 2 p.m. * 98 566 31 33.

17 HOW TO GET THERE, WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Asturias’ airport lies 47 kilometres trip on the Trascantábrico lasts a from the region’s capital, Oviedo. week and passengers sleep aboard. Regular daily flights link the city As for road transport, a variety of with Madrid and , other regular bus and coach services cover main cities around Spain, Paris and the region. The leading passenger London. There is a coach service transport company in the area is from Oviedo, Gijón and Avilés that ALSA, whose routes connect up connects with flights, and coach, car points all around the Principality rental and taxis are all available at and a good part of Spain. Likewise, the airport. it links Asturias with different Rail: RENFE (Spanish Rail) runs a European capitals, such as Paris and daily train service to Madrid and . Barcelona (among other Asturias is served by a wide range of destinations), with scheduled hotels and restaurants. There are daytime and night-time departures. over 60 five-, four- and three-star There are central railway stations in hotels, plus many others of a more Oviedo, Gijón and Avilés. Trains modest nature; in addition there is connecting points in the interior of good choice of small holiday flats, the province and the Cantabrian situated mainly in country areas, corniche are operated by FEVE. In and some 60 camping sites situated summer this company puts on a by the sea and in the mountains. tourist train, the Trascantábrico, a Asturias is also able to offer a narrow gauge train which runs somewhat different form of along an exceptionally scenic route accommodation, namely, the so- and brings back memories of the called Casas de Aldea (Country old turn of the century railways. The Cottages), rustic buildings

Gijón Parador refurbished as tourist lodgings. Rentals can sometimes be arranged on a room-by-room basis while in other cases, the cottage as a whole is rented out. A further possibility is afforded by the Casonas Asturianas (mansion-houses), a quality club formed by 24 hotels of different categories, ranging from 2- to 4- Fabada asturiana (bean and pork stew) star, located in rural settings and linked by the common denominator Exchanging currency poses no of de-luxe guest facilities and problems. There are banks almost service. For bookings and tourist everywhere: morning banking hours information kindly call the Central are 9 a.m. - 2 p.m. Some branches Booking Office at * 98 527 48 58 also open in the afternoon. The or 902 300 202. bigger towns are supplied with The Principality of Asturias is rightly numerous card-operated cash points famed as one of Spain’s good food (ATMs). areas, from the most luxurious In general, all main credit cards are restaurants of Oviedo and Gijón to accepted in shops, restaurants and modest eating houses in the hotels, though not to the same smallest towns. In every case, the degree in the more rural areas of visitor is sure to have the chance of the province. savouring the delicacies of Asturian Parking in Oviedo and Gijón city cuisine. Most establishments have a centres is regulated by a pay by the fixed menu two courses, dessert and hour system (known by the Spanish drink at prices ranging from 900 to acronym, ORA). In the streets in 1,800 pesetas. All such such zones, there are coin-operated establishments are required by law vending machines from which the to display, prominently and visibly, a necessary parking cards can be list showing the prices charged purchased. Parking in a so-called (with or without VAT). Tipping is blue zone (zona azul) without an allowed unless otherwise indicated. ORA card, can lead to the car in Asturias has two Tourist , question being towed away by the the San Pedro de Villanueva just Local Police. outside Cangas de Onis and the Molino Viejo (Old Mill) in Gijón, the lattter being situated in the Isabel la Católica Park, five minutes from San Lorenzo beach.

19 LEISURE AND ENTERTAINMENT

Asturias’ natural surroundings make and finishing point for regattas. it ideal for lovers of Sailing Federation (Federación de mountaineering, mountain biking Vela), * 98 534 54 76. and hiking. The Asturian Canoeing/kayaking: Asturian rivers Mountaineering Federation are ideal for canoeing. (Federación Asturiana de Montaña) The first Saturday in August marks can be contacted on * 98 525 23 62. the holding of the Descent of the There is a good network of River Sella, from Arriondas down to mountain refuge huts. Those keen Ribadesella, a festive event of on caving will find that Asturias is international tourist interest. The one of Spain’s leading centres for Fiesta de las Piraguas is probably this sport. Throughout the region, Asturias’ most cherished festivity. though especially in the east, Sport and sheer enjoyment merge in numerous firms are engaged in an explosion of joy, which begins on organising horse and pony trekking. the Friday and does not end until The Indigenous Fauna Exhibition the Sunday. The event involves a Centre (Centro de Exhibición de 17-kilometre race down a river of Fauna Autóctona) is situated in Soto striking contrasts and myriad shades de Cangas, in the Cangas de Onís of green. The strains of “Asturias, district. For further information patria querida” (Asturias, beloved kindly call, * 98 594 00 17. land), the Principality’s official Golf: There are a number of anthem, open a race in which municipal and public golf courses in thousands of contestants from the Asturias: in Gijón, Llanes, Noreña, five continents take part. No money Ribadesella, Oviedo and Tapia de prizes are on offer: there is only the Casarigo, For further information honour of winning. kindly call the Principality of Asturias Hunting: , fallow, chamois Golf Federation, on * 98 533 91 41. and red deer are just some of the Skiing: The Valgrande-Pajares ski pieces that can be bagged in the resort is equipped with 4 chairlifts mountains of Asturias. The Regional and 9 ski-lifts. For further Environmental Authority (Dirección information kindly call * 98 595 71 23. Regional de Montes and Medio In addition, there is the San Isidro Natural), * 98 510 55 47, will resort area, on the border with the furnish information as to conditions Province of León. and open seasons. The Hunting Sailing: Gijón has a yacht basin Federation (Federación de Caza) can (* 98 534 45 43), provided with the be contacted on * 98 527 63 50. full range of services. The city is Fishing: Trout and salmon streams home to a number of sailing schools abound. The angling season is and frequently acts as the starting spring and summer. For further

20 Canoe fiesta. Descent of the River Sella information kindly call the Regional activity. In September, the Environmental Authority Campoamor Theatre is the venue for * 98 510 55 48; and the Asturian the prestigious Oviedo Opera Cycle. Angling Federation (Federación Autumn in Gijón brings the Asturiana de Pesca), International Film Festival, while July * 98 560 10 67. signals Semana Negra (Black Week), a The two most important football literary-cultural event which looks to stadiums are the Carlos Tartiere the genre of crime fiction for Stadium in Oviedo, and the El inspiration. In April and May, all three Molinón Stadium in Gijón. In cities host the International Music and Oviedo, indoor sports are held in the Dance Festival of Asturias. In late Palacio de los Deportes, and in October or early November, Oviedo Gijón, in the Pabellón de La Guía. acts as the backdrop for the annual During August, Gijón is the venue Príncipe de Asturias Awards for the International Show Jumping ceremony. In August, Gijón is the site Competition. of the Asturias International Samples Trade Fair. Culture, fiestas local August signals the fiestas of St. cuisine and shopping Augustine (San Agustín) in Avilés, and St. Begoña in Gijón. Oviedo celebrates its St. Matthew’s Feast (San Oviedo, Gijón and Avilés are the Mateo) in September. In summer, the main cultural centres. Each has a festive calendar is filled with romerías public theatre (Campoamor, (pilgrimage outings, and espichas Jovellanos and Palacio Valdés (fiestas where cider reigns supreme, respectively) with all-year-round held in a llagar, the cellar-like hall

21 used for preparing and storing cider). Regional dishes Other traditional festivities include: the include: sopa de Fiesta del Pastor in Cangas de Onís marisco (25th July); Asturias Day in Gijón, (first (bouillabaisse- Sunday in August); America Day in like soup), pote Asturias, celebrated in Oviedo in asturiano (a rich September; the Avilés and Gijón potage of Carnivals; La Descarga in Cangas de beans, ham, Narcea, on 16th July, marked by the sausage meat launching of thousands of rockets; the and potatoes), Fiesta de los Huevos Pintos, in Pola de fabada (stew of Siero, on Easter Tuesday (with a market haricot beans, Asturias Day. selling traditionally painted eggs); the pork and Typical Dress Fiesta del Asturcón, in Majada de sausage), fabes Espineres, in August, marked by the con almejas (beans with clams), branding of the pescados a la sidra (fish -usually hake- Asturian steed par excellence -the in cider), roasts, ventresca de bonito Asturcón- within the context of an (grilled bonito), angulas (baby eels), open-air romería. cebollas rellenas (stuffed onions), Shopping: Each locality of a certain size vegetables of all kinds, trout, stuffed holds a weekly market selling local potatoes, seafood, oricios (sea produce, such as the Fabes de la Granja, urchin). Typically Asturian too, are: haricot beans used in the traditional Boroña, a type of cornflour bread; fabada. Numerous boutiques line the frixuelos, a fritter-like dessert similar streets of Oviedo and Gijón. Wooden to crêpes; bollo preñao, breadroll handicrafts -clogs, (madreñas) are the stuffed and baked with spicy Spanish traditional footwear in country districts- sausage (); callos (tripe); and further west, hand looms and compango is a meat-based side- cutlery. There is a profusion of jewellery serving to accompany other dishes, shops, many engaged in the cutting, and is composed of chorizo, black polishing and setting of locally found pudding (morcilla), shoulder of pork jet (azabache). (lacón) and bacon. Desserts: Candamo

Fine Arts Gallery. Oviedo strawberries, rice pudding, fruit, the apple is king. There is wide marañuelas biscuits shaped like a leaf, choice of cheeses: Cabrales, rose or crown), and casadiellas (small Gamonedo, Beyos, Queso Casín, folded cakes with a filling of ground Afuega´l Pitu. walnut, sugar and anisette). The To drink there is cider (fellow- Carbayones, filled with ground drinkers sharing a tumbler) sparkling almond and egg yolk, are the typical cider and, to the west of the region, pastries of Oviedo, while the wine. Mineral water is available from Princesitas are the speciality of Gijón. local springs. The local honey is excellent. As for

Buses: USEFUL ADDRESSES Alsa * 98 596 96 96 Intercar * 98 596 96 96 International Dialling Code: 34 Taxis Oviedo * 98 525 25 00 and 98 525 00 00; TURESPAÑA TOURIST INFORMATION Avilés * 98 556 00 00; * 901 300 600 Gijón * 98 514 11 11 and 98 516 44 44 www.tourspain.es Road traffic Road & Highway information * 900 12 35 05 Regional Tourist Services Department: Guardia Civil (Traffic Dept.) Plaza de España, 1 bajo, edificio de Servicios * 98 528 17 97 - 98 528 12 66 Múltiples, Oviedo Tele-ruta * 98 577 17 27 * 98 510 64 33, Fax 98 510 64 21 POST & TELEGRAPHS TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES: General Post Office: Quintanilla, 1, Oviedo: Plaza de Alfonso II El Casto. Oviedo * 98 521 41 86; Telephone * 98 521 33 85 Exchange (public booths): Foncalada, 7 Calle Marqués de Santa Cruz * 98 522 75 86 USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS Avilés: Calle Ruiz Gómez, 21 * 98 554 43 25 Red Cross (Cruz Roja) *1006 Gijón: Calle Marqués de San Esteban, 1 Hospital Emergencies: * 061 * 98 534 60 46 National Police: 091 Municipal Police: * 092 Llanes: Calle La Torre * 98 540 01 64 Civil Protection Corps * 98 577 17 77; Madrid: Centro Asturiano. Calle Farmacia, 2 Public Information Service: * 010 * 91 522 27 36 Lost Property * 98 521 98 75 ext. 2159 Mieres: Manuel Llaneza, 8 * 985 45 05 33 Pola de Lena: Esquina de Marqués de PARADORS San Feliz , 2 * 98 549 32 68 (State-run hotels): Central booking office. Regional Tourist Board: * 98 527 78 70 Calle Requena, 3. Madrid 28013 * 91 516 66 66, Fax 91 516 66 57 TRANSPORT www.parador.es Serviberia * 902 40 05 45 Gijón Parador. Parque Isabel La Católica Renfe (Spanish Rail) information and Bookings * 98 537 05 11, Fax 98 537 02 33 * 902 24 02 02 Cangas de Onis Parador. Villanueva Feve (narrow-gauge railway) Oviedo * 98 584 94 02, Fax: 98 584 95 20 * 98 528 40 96; Avilés * 98 554 13 48; Gijón * 98 534 24 15

23 SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATION Miami. Tourist Office of Spain OFFICES ABROAD 1221 Brickell Avenue MIAMI, Florida 33131 Canada. Toronto w 1305/ 358 19 92, fax 1305/ 358 82 23 Tourist Office of Spain e-mail: [email protected] 2 Bloor Street West Suite 3402 TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2 New York. Tourist Office of Spain w 1416/ 961 31 31, fax 1416/ 961 19 92 666 Fifth Avenue 35 th floor e-mail: [email protected] NEW YORK, N.Y. 10103 w 1212/ 265 88 22, fax 1212/ 265 88 64 Great Britain. London e-mail:[email protected] Spanish Tourist Office Manchester Square, 22-23 EMBASSIES IN MADRID LONDON W1M 5AP w 44207/ 486 80 77, fax 44207/ 486 80 34 Canada: Nuñez de Balboa, 35 e-mail: [email protected] w 91 431 43 00, fax 91 431 23 67 Great Britain: Fernando El Santo, 16 Japan. Tokyo w 91 319 02 00, fax 91 308 10 33 Tourist Office of Spain Japan: Serrano, 109 Daini Toranomon Denki Bldg.4F w 91 590 76 00, fax 91 590 13 21 3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-Ku. TOKIO-105 Russia: Velazquez, 155 w 813/ 34 32 61 41, fax 813/ 34 32 61 44 w 91 562 22 64, fax 91 562 97 12 e-mail: [email protected] United States of America: Serrano, 75 w 91 587 22 00, fax 91 587 23 03 Russia. Moscow Spanish Tourist Office Tverskaya – 16/2 Business Center “Galeria Aktor” 6º floor. MOSCOW 103009 w 7095 / 935 83 99, fax 70 95 / 935 83 96 e-mail: [email protected] Written by: Eduardo García Singapore. Singapore Translated by: Spanish Tourist Office Michael D. Benedict 541Orchard Road. Liat Tower # 09-04 Photographs: 238881 SINGAPORE Turespaña Photographic Archives w 657 / 37 30 08, fax 657 / 37 31 73 Cover © Juanjo Arrojo e-mail: [email protected] Design: Megacolor S.A. United States of America Published by: Los Angeles. Tourist Office of Spain © Turespaña 8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960 Secretaría de Estado de Comercio BEVERLY HILLS, CAL 90211 y Turismo w 1323/ 658 71 95, fax 1323/ 658 10 61 Ministerio de Economía e-mail: [email protected] Printed by: Chicago. Tourist Office of Spain GAEZ, S.A. Water Tower Place, suite 915 East D.L.: M-24.399-2000 845, North Michigan Avenue NIPO: 104-00-009-9 CHICAGO, ILL 60-611 Printed in Spain w 1312/ 642 19 92, fax 1312/ 642 98 17 nd e-mail: [email protected] 2 edition

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1.-Elogio del Horizonte (In praise of the Horizon) 2.-City Hall 3.-Gijón Museum-Jovellanos’ Birthplace 4.-Church of San Pedro (St. Peter’s) 5.-Roman Baths Museum 6.-Muro de San Lorenzo esplanade 7.-Revillagigedo Palace-Collegiate Church of 8.-Barjola Museum 9.-Clock Tower P H 1.- 2.- 3.- 4.- 5.- 6.- 7.- 8.- 9.- 10.-Jovellanos Theatre 11.-Church of San Lorenzo 12.- Church of the Sagrado Corazón (Sacred Heart) 13.-Nicanor Piñole Art Gallery Art Gallery 14.-Evaristo Valle 15.-Universidad Laboral 16.-Railway Museum 17.-Ethnographic Museum of the Asturian People 18.-Bagpipe Museum 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 10.- 11.- 12.- 13.- 14.- 15.- 16.- 17.- 18.- DE INTERES TOURIST SIGHTS MAIN BUILDINGS AND Información turística Correos Cruz Roja Policia Estación de ferrocarril Estación de autobuses MONUMENTOS Y LUGARES Tourist Information Office Post Office Red Cross Police Railway Station Bus and Coach Station (St. Julian in the Fields) 1.- Catedral 2.- Museo Arqueológico 3.- Monasterio de San Pelayo 4.- Iglesia de Santa María la Real 5.- Museo de Bellas Artes 6.- Ayuntamiento 7.- Iglesia de San Isidoro 8.- Mercado de Fontán 9.- Palacio Regional 1.- Cathedral 2.- Archaeological Museum 3.- San Pelayo Monastery 4.- Church of Santa María la Real (St. Mary Royal) 5.- Fine Arts Gallery 6.- City Hall 7.- Church of San Isidoro (St. Isidore’s) 8.- Fontán Market 9.- Regional Palace (seat of Authority) i 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Campoamor 10.- Teatro 11.- Antiguo Convento de Santa Clara 12.- Universidad 13.- Palacio de Toreno 14.- Palacio de Camposagrado 15.- Antiguo Hospicio Provincial 16.- Iglesia de San Julián los Prados 17.- Santa María del Naranco 18.- San Miguel de Lillo 19.- Fuente de Foncalada 20.- Iglesia de San Pedro Nora 21.- Santa María de Bendones 10.- Campoamor Theatre 11.- Former Convent of Santa Clara 12.- University 13.- Toreno Palace 14.- Camposagrado Palace 15.- Old Provincial Hospital 16.- Church of San Julián de los Prados 17.- Church of Santa María del Naranco 18.- Chapel of San Miguel de Lillo 19.- Foncalada Fountain 20.- Church of San Pedro de Nora 21.- Church of Santa María de Bendones

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V A GRADO 24 km 24 GRADO Ministerio deEconomía de Comercio yTurismo Secretaría deEstado Tu I re spaña

Spain Asturias