North and Central Sulawesi Anita & Hans-Valentin Bastian, July 26Th – August 3Rd
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
North and Central Sulawesi Anita & Hans-Valentin Bastian, July 26th – August 3rd Anaso Trail, Lore Lindu NP - © A & HV Bastian Sulawesi Bear Cuscus (Ailurops ursinus) Sahul Sunbird (Cinnyris jugularis (clementiae)) North- and Central Sulawesi (26.7. – 3.8. 2019) Itinary: 26.07. due to bad weather late arrival in Manado at 1:30 p.m., 2 hours drive Manado-Tangkoko with birding stop in the Temboan Hills, accommodation Tangkoko Lodge 27.07. Start of excursion at 5:45 a.m. in Tangkoko NP, 11 a.m. - 1 p.m. launch, then second excur- sion through Tangkoko NP, night excursion to Tarsier and Owls 28.07. starting 5:00 a.m. birding in the surrounding (Temboan Hills) and Tangkoko NP; 2:00 p.m. drive to Kalinaun, from there boat trip along the river delta with mangroves 29.07. starting 5:30 a.m. excursion to Tangkoko NP, from 12:30 p.m. drive to Tomohon with stop in Airmadidi (Taman Purbakala Waruga), accommodation in Mountain View Resort, Tomohon. 30.07. starting 5:00 a.m. drive to the Mahawu volcano, then Danau Linow, afternoon birding in the Gardenia Country Inn; then transfer to Manado 31.07. Transfer Manado-Palu with a stopover in Gorontalo, then drive to Wuasa with birding stops, accommodation in Penginapan Lodge Nasional 01.08. starting at 4:30 a.m. to Lore Lindu NP, after a rustic breakfast on the side of the path, walk along the Anaso Trail; night excursion around Wuasa for owls 02.08. starting 5:00 a.m.; birding along the road in Lore Lindu NP and Tambing Lake; Owl excursion again in the evening 03.08. Return to Palu with numerous birding stops; 16:00 arrival at Palu Highlights 2 1 3 Tangkoko NP with our main birding places Tangkoko NP (1): The Tangkoko Duasaudara jungle reserve extends around the 1351 m high Gunung Duasaudara and parts of the 1109 m high Gunung Tangkoko in the extreme northeast of Sulawesi. The entrance to the reserve is in Batu Putih. The reserve has a well-grown secondary forest, and only in the summit region primary forests. With BOBBY LAMBAIHANG we had an experienced guide at our side who was very familiar with the ani- mals of the NP and their preferred locations. Our accommodation, the Tangkoko Lodge, was very close to the national park, so that we could always go there alone, Bobby arranged with the staff of the national park that we did not have to pay admission every time. Special mammalian observations were Gursky's Spectral Tarsier (Tarsius spectrumgurskyae), Sulawesi Bear Cuscus (Ailurops ursinus) and the endemic Celebes Crested Macaque (Macaca nigra), which live here in several groups, one of them close to the entrance to the national park. Among the birds, the Knobbed Hornbill (Rhyticeros cassidix) is particularly noteworthy, which we ob- served at the breeding site for a long time while feeding his female. In addition, good observations for example of Sulawesi Nightjar (Caprimulgus celebensis), Tabon Scrubfowl (Megapodius cumingii), Sulawesi Roller (Coracias temminckii), Ashy Woodpecker (Mulleripicus fulvus), Green-backed King- fisher (Actenoides monachus), Sulawesi Lilac Kingfisher (Cittura cyanotis), Yellow-breasted Racquet- tail (Prioniturus flavicans), Ornate Lorikeet (Trichoglossus ornatus) and two Ochre-bellied Boobook (Ninox ochracea) in their day stand, and a large group of Lesser Frigatebird (Fregata ariel) over the sea. Black Sunbird (Leptocoma sericea) and Sulawesi Babbler (Pellorneum celebense) at the lodge. Kalinaun (2): The goal is a boat landing near Kalinaun, which we arrived after a drive over the Tem- boan Hills (3). This place is a good place for the endemic Great-billed Kingfisher (Pelargopsis melano- rhyncha), which we observed several times. Otherwise we could see: Great billed Heron (Ardea su- matrana), Pied Imperial-Pigeon (Ducula bicolor), Golden-bellied Gerygone (Gerygon sulphurea) and White-rumped Cuckooshrike (Coracina leucopygia). Temboan Hills (3): The area is interesting because of its special location and the -usually- very good observation possibilities. Unfortunately, the birds here are often very far away and in windy weather, as we had at that time, this place is particularly affected, so birding is significantly reduced. The very close spotting of a juvenile Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle (Nisaetus lanceolatus) was a highlight, as well we saw Yellow-billed Malkoha (Rhamphococcyx calyorhynchus), Pygmy Hanging-Parrot (Loriculus exilis), Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot (Loriculus stigmatus) and numerous pigeons mostly Great Imperial Pigeon (Ducula aenea) and Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon (Ducula luctuosa). Mahawu Vulkan (4): Well developed for tourists with an impressive view of the volcano caldera. A little below the crater we take a tour through the forest around, in order to find the Scaly-breasted 4 5 Birding places west of Mount Mahawu (Tomohon) Kingfischer (Actenoides princeps). Although there are supposed to be several territories here, we failed to find him. We continued hiking to the volcano parking lot with several birding stops in the surrounding forests and to some observation points. There is an observation tower at the crater rim. Birds were not easy to spot: Sulawesi Bush-hen (Amaurornis isabellina) crossed the path, Turquoise Warbling Flycatcher (Eumyias panayensis) was observed very closely, other species were White-bel- lied Imperial-Pigeon (Ducula forsteni), Sulawesi Cuckoo-Dove (Macropygia doreya alpicapilla), Superb Fruit-Dove (Ptilinopus superbus), Black-crowned White-eye (Zosterops atrifrons) and Mountain Tailor- bird (Phyllergates cucullatus). Gardenia Country Inn (5): Hotel complex with extensive, structurally rich gardens, numerous flower- ing shrubs, and also some remote areas. Here you can watch many species visiting flowers very closely, as the birds seem to be used to humans: Sulawesi Myzomela (Myzomela chloroptera), Sahul Sunbird (Cinnyris jugularis), Mountain White-eye (Zosterops montanus), Yellow-sided Flowerpecker (Dicaeum aureolimbatum), Sooty-headed Bulbul (Pycnonotus aurigaster); also Plaintive Cuckoo (Cacomantis merulinus) and at the ponds of the hotel complex Barred Rail (Gallirallus torquatus). Lake Danau Linow: South of Tomohon we drive around Lake Danau Linow with many fishponds. The place is known as a good birding spot. We stop several times, but apart from some heron species (Ja- van Pond-Heron (Ardeola speciosa), Little Egret (Egretta garzetta), Eastern Great Egret (Ardea alba modesta) and Eurasian Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus) we only found many Munias, mostly Scaly- breasted Munia (Lonchura punctulata), in the rice fields. 5 7 a Main Birding places in Lore Lindu NP 6 (a) lodge in Wuasa) Lore Lindu NP: After we recognized on arrival in Palu that one of our suitcases had been unloaded at the stopover in Gorontalo, the Malia Tours team, above all Nurlin Djuni, took great care to get the luggage back as quickly as possible. After a true odyssey through Sulawesi, the suitcase arrived in Palu in the evening and was brought to our accommodation in Wuasa that night. Our guide team with Kasman Plankton, Idris Tinulele and a driver were exceptionally well trained in the voices of all of the bird species and in spotting birds in the field. They gave us an excellent insight into the natural diversity of the Lore Lindu National Park. In particular Idris, a local ornithologist, knew the Lore Lindu National Park very well with its rich avifauna as well the variety of butterflies and reptiles. But our guides were also able to show us many botanical specialties of the park. The three were a great team and it was fun to be out with them. The core area of Kalamanta was declared a game reserve in 1973 and was included in UNESCO's “Men and Biosphere” program in 1977 as a biosphere reserve. In 1978 the area around Lake Lindu also became a wildlife sanctuary, and in 1981 the conservation area Lore Lindu emerged from the un- ion of the two conservation areas. In the following year, the Indonesian government granted the area the status of a national park, which was opened in 1993. Already on the way to Wuasa we could observe Knobbed Hornbill (Rhyticeros cassidix), Black Eagle (Ictinaetus malaiensis), Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle (Nisaetus lanceolatus), Savanna Nightjar (Caprimulgus affinis), Cerulean Cuckooshrike (Coracina temminckii) Blue-tailed Bee-eater (Merops philippinus), White-breasted Woodswallow (Artamus leucorynchus) and Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker (Dicaeum nehrkorni). Anaso Trail sowie umgebende Waldbereiche (5): Hiking the Anaso Trail is a MUST HAVE for every visitor to the Lore Lindu NP interested in nature, flora or fauna. The path starts at 1700 m above sea level and rises to around 2200 m, whereby we did not climb up to the summit, but only up to around 2150 m. The path leads through a mountain rain and mountain cloud forest with very lush vegeta- tion. Even if the ascent is somewhat strenuous, the impressions alongside the trail compensates in many places with its enormous biodiversity. The experiences were of course further enhanced by the profound detailed knowledge of Idris and Kasman. Whether it was the successful spotting of the Sa- tanic Nightjar (Eurostopodus diabolicus) in their day-stand, the unfortunately unsuccessful attempt to see the Sombre Pigeon (Cryptophaps poecilorrhoa), which was only heard very closely, or the suc- cessful efforts of many, difficult to spot species like Maroon-backed Whistler (Coracornis raveni), Sulawesi Babbler (Pellorneum celebense), Lesser Myza (Myza celebensis) and Greater Myza (Myza sarasinorum), Sulawesi Grasshopper Warbler (Locustella castanea) or Malia (Malia grata). Other spe- cies, such as Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher (Cyornis omissus), are regularly seen chasing insects on the road in the early morning before entering the trail. The well-known breeding site of the Purple- bearded Bee-eater (Meropogon forsteni) was unfortunately not occupied, but we could observe them very well and several times from the street. In addition to the enormous variety of birds, the flora in this part of the Lore Lindu NP is also very interesting.