Verdicchio

Trade secret ‘Verdicchio is held in great esteem by critics and wine lovers, but remains little known by the general The hillsides of hold many secrets, among them public,’ says Leo Felici, owner/winemaker at the the complexity and ageability of well-made Verdicchio. Andrea Felici estate in Apiro in the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi zone. His words go a long way Tom Hyland finds himself intrigued as he explores the region towards explaining the puzzle that is Verdicchio in today’s market, especially outside of . The Verdicchio grape, grown in the hillsides of north-central and western Marche, is used to produce a variety of wines, from metodo classico to ‘In Verdicchio, one can find powerful passito and, in between, some of the longest-lived dry whites found in Italy. Decanter Italy expert Ian antixodants such as etil-caffeato, which is D’Agata, in his book Native Wine Grapes of Italy, asserts that ‘Verdicchio is arguably Italy’s greatest similar to resveratrol in red wines’ native white grape variety.’ In its 2015 Italian wine Riccardo Baldi, La Staffa (above) guide, Gambero Rosso awarded its highest rating of tre bicchieri to 11 examples of Verdicchio – more than any other white in the country. So why is it Also Jesi is more open to the sea, while is that you would be hard pressed to find more than an inland territory, where the influence of the one example on wine lists outside of Italy? mountains can be felt.’ Ampelio Bucci, owner of the eponymous estate Fabio Marchionni of Collestefano, one of in Ostra Vetere in the Jesi zone, notes that Matelica’s most renowned producers, elaborates Verdicchio comes to the conversation with some further: ‘The valley of Matelica is a closed valley, historical baggage. ‘Verdicchio from the 1950s with the Apennines on one side and on the other, through to the 1980s was known as a low-quality the mountain range of San Vicino. It does not feel white, an industrial wine,’ he remarks, recalling the effect of marine influences, rather it is a that some cantine sociali (cooperatives) would bottle continental climate with very cold winters with wines from outside the area and label them as snow and very hot summers.’ For Marchionni, the Verdicchio. Even today, the appellation rules for Above: one of Matelica’s Verdicchios from Matelica have ‘a great structure Verdicchio allow a maximum yield of 14 tons/ best known producers, on the palate, but with stronger acidic and saline hectare, which is among the highest for any Italian Bisci, produces a components with respect to Jesi.’ wine; at that level, the issue of quality is not even in Verdicchio with ‘gorgeous As for the grape itself, Massimiliano Latini of the discussion. Given this data, it is not surprising aromas’ which ‘glides Colonnara, the leading cooperative producer in the that Ampelio wrote Villa Bucci on the front label across the palate’ Jesi zone, speaks of the ‘vibrant acidity and high while mentioning the word Verdicchio only on the content of polyphenols that combine to result in back label, a practice he continues to this very day. Far left: the vineyards of wines that last many years’. Baldi notes that ‘in Montecarotto, with their Verdicchio, one can find powerful antixodants such A tale of two zones clay-rich soils, lie in the as etil-caffeato [ethyl caffeate], which is similar to There are two DOC zones for Verdicchio in Marche: Verdicchio dei Castelli di resveratrol in red wines.’ Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, the more famous of Jesi zone, one of two DOCs In both zones, structure in the wines is provided the two, and Verdicchio di Matelica. While most for Verdicchio in Marche by the combination of vineyard altitude and vine examples are 100% Verdicchio (DOC regulations age. ‘About 90% of Verdicchio is produced on hills require 85% minimum Verdicchio), the that are situated between 280m and 600m above characteristics of these wines are quite varied, sea level,’ says Baldi. Felici explains that his oldest thanks to a series of factors including soil, climate vineyard – a 2ha plot at the heart of his estate that and elevation. averages more than 50 years in vine age – is located The Castelli di Jesi zone is located in north- at 400m, while some of his younger plots are central Marche, while Matelica is in the western- situated at between 400m and 600m elevation. centre of the region, close to the Apennine Felici estimates 20 years for maximum drinking Mountains that traverse this part of the region, near pleasure, while Baldi goes even further, arguing the border with Umbria. ‘The greatest difference that Verdicchio is ‘capable of beautifully ageing for between Matelica and Jesi,’ says Riccardo Baldi, more than 30 years’. proprietor of the La Staffa estate in the Jesi zone, ‘is Flavour profiles vary from one area to the next, the terrains. Jesi is very rich in clay and skeletal often with notable differences. For example, the

Photograph:MickRock/Cephas deposits, while Matelica is richer in minerals. zone, which is home to several ➢

DECANTER • Italy 2 0 1 5 | 6 7 Verdicchio

banana and honeyed flavours derived from that there is still too much bulk Verdicchio late-harvest grapes. Meanwhile Felici ferments and available at petrol stations and AutoGrill markets matures his Il Cantico della Figura Riserva in (airport and highway outlets) throughout Italy. ‘The cement; fermentation on the skin takes two weeks, mass market of Verdicchio products has created an while ageing on the lees lasts 12 months. The 2011 insipid, boring drink that we producers today are Riserva is sleek, with stunning varietal purity and trying to fight,’ says Felici. dazzling aromatics of Bosc pear, lilacs and golden Bucci is one that has bucked the trend, achieving poppies; in just a few short years, this wine has great commercial success. ‘We grow Verdicchio become one of the signature examples of Verdicchio with a greatly reduced quantity [half of the allowed dei Castelli di Jesi. yield] so it can age like a red wine,’ he says. It’s that sort of thinking that could help change the common Easy on the oak identity of Verdicchio. Only time will tell if this Colonnara uses Regarding wood ageing, barriques are used persistence pays off… D Verdicchio’s natural sparingly (as in Fazi-Battaglia’s San Sisto Riserva acidity to create a and Garofoli’s Serra Fiorese); generally the preferred Freelancer writer and photographer Tom Hyland is the sparkling wine with ‘more cask is large oak botti, ranging in capacity from author of Beyond Barolo and Brunello: Italy’s Most richness than most’

5,000 to 7,000 litres, as with the riserva offerings Distinctive Wines Photograph:Francesca Ballarini from Umani Ronchi (Plenio) and Bucci (Villa Bucci). These two wines have been among the most consistent in terms of longevity and quality. Hyland’s top Verdicchio picks Above: the sparing use of top producers including Colonnara and Bonci, is Only 30% of the Plenio is matured in the large oak favoured by Michele the oldest for Verdicchio production. This area is casks (the remaining percentage in cement and Colonnara, Ubaldo exceptional length. Drink Stefano Antonucci, Le Vaglie, Verdicchios with age Bernetti of Umani Ronchi one of the closest to the sea as well as having many stainless steel), while all of the Bucci wine ages for Rosi, Brut Metodo 2015-2022 Alc 13.5% Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Colonnara, Cuprese, Verdicchio results in wines with good of the highest vineyard plantings. Marchionni 18-24 months in botti. Both wines display Classico, Classico 2013 17.5 (91) dei Castelli di Jesi 1991 ageability mentions that a typical Verdicchio from impressive structure, with the Bucci offering more Verdicchio dei Sartarelli, Balciana, £14 St Andrews Wine Co, Vinum 18.25 (94) Cupramontana offers aromas of yellow fruit richness on the palate; the best time to drink is Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio dei Castelli Antonucci is one of the area’s N/A UK www.colonnara.it Below: wines produced (especially pears) along with notes of anise and between 12 and 20 years of age. 2008 16.25 (87) di Jesi Superiore 2012 most inimitable characters; his Golden yellow; aromas of honey, from Collestefano’s wild fennel. This is a contrast to other zones in Jesi So with such positives behind it, why does N/A UK www. 17.75 (92) wines are flawless, with great banana, orange blossom and vineyards have achieved (such as or Apiro) where perfumes of Verdicchio not sell in greater numbers or enjoy a colonnara.it £22 Astrum Wine Cellars intensity. This wine, from the top geranium. Outstanding length something of a cult status tropical and candied fruit are more representative. more solid reputation? The answer is unavoidable Verdicchio’s natural Made from late- 2013 vintage, is particularly so. and complexity, vibrant acidity; While stainless steel is the most common ageing – the wine is from the Marche region. This may be acidity makes for a harvested grapes from Drink 2015-2020 Alc 13% amazing shape at 24 years. Drink vessel, a few producers use cement tanks for an enchanting territory, but it is unfamiliar to most well-structured a single site. Delicate 2015-2022 Alc 13% fermentation and/or maturing their wines. The consumers. ‘The wines of Marche have never been sparkler; this limited-prodution hints of tropical fruit in Bisci, Verdicchio di Matelica Pietrone Riserva from Vallerosa Bonci is aged for 12 well known,’ declares Felici. So the area’s vintners cuvée offers more richness than a very subtle style. 2013 17 (90) Villa Bucci, Riserva, months in cement tanks, lending a focus to the have to fight an identity crisis as well as the fact most. Arguably the area’s finest. Great balance and £15 (2012) Vini Italiani Verdicchio dei Drink 2015-2017 Alcohol 12.5% finesse. Drink 2015-2022 Alc 15% Matelica’s best-known producer; Castelli di Jesi 2004 gorgeous aromas of dogwood, 18.25 (94) Current releases Umani Ronchi, Plenio, Classico, spearmint and green apple. The N/A UK www. Villa Bucci, Riserva, Verdicchio Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi wine glides across the palate – villabucci.com dei Castelli di Jesi 2009 Riserva 2009 17.75 (92) ultra clean and delicious. Drink Expressive aromas of 18.25 (94) £22 Exel Wines, Great Western 2015-2019 Alc 13.5% almond pastry and £25.74-£35.50 Exel, Vini Italiani Wine, James Nicholson , Roberts & orange peel; Easily the most famous and Speight La Staffa, Verdicchio excellent depth of arguably the finest Verdicchio One of Jesi’s most visible and dei Castelli di Jesi fruit. Good acidity, producer, Ampelio Bucci is a consistent producers, this is an Classico 2013 17 (91) outstanding persistence. A great ambassador for the area. underrated gem, with spiced £13-£14 Armit Wines, pleasing note of creaminess to Despite its age, this is the current apple and dried pear flavours, Exel Wines finish. Drink 2015-2022 Alc 13% release. The riserva offerings subtle wood notes, lively acidity Impressive varietal display length on the palate with and distinct minerality. Drink focus, but this wine Garofoli, La structure and persistence; the 2015-2022 Alc 14% shies away from simple Selezione 2009 is even richer than usual. fruit, offering flavours Gioacchino Garofoli, Drink 2015-2024 Alc 13.5% Collestefano, of mint and herbal tea Riserva, Verdicchio Verdicchio di with distinct minerality. dei Castelli di Jesi Andrea Felici, Il Matelica 2013 17.5 (91) Drink 2015-2018 Alc 13.5% Classico 2008 Cantico della Figura, £11.49 Les Cave de 17.75 (92) Riserva, Verdicchio Pyrène Colonnara, Cuprese, Verdicchio £30-£31 Mondial, Pipai dei Castelli di Jesi Fabio Marchionni dei Castelli di Jesi Superiore From a great family Classico 2011 18 (93) farms his vineyards 2013 16.5 (88) estate, this riserva is £18.25 Lea & Sandeman organically. This has £9.80 Alvini made from late- Leo Felici is a become something of Made by the best cooperative for harvest grapes. Layers of fruit, Verdicchio perfectionist a cult wine. Golden Verdicchio, this is a beautifully beautifully structured – very and it shows. Cement- apple and cinnamon structured wine that can be sexy! Drink 2015-2025 Alc 14% fermented and aged, aromas lead onto notes of appreciated after six months or this has outstanding mango on the palate. Drink years; great value. Drink For full details of UK stockists, varietal purity, lively acidity and 2015-2020 Alc 13% 2015-2020 Alc 13.5% see p88

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