150 Things We Love About Canada

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most intriguing most things.and people,Turns places, kingdomthe out coldofalong, was all cool Canada About WeLove Things 150 Toonies, tuques, and tabarnak, oh my! As our northern neighbor fetes its sesquicentennial, we celebrate SPECIAL TRAVEL 48

NOVEMBER

2015

T U O —a veritable A to Z (or “Zed” across the border) of the country’s eh?

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NOVEMBER 2015

49 From left: Daniel Levy, Catherine O’Hara, and Eugene Levy PROP STYLING BY NINA BOZALO. HAIR BY ANA SORYS. MAKEUP BY LUCKY BROMHEAD BROMHEAD LUCKY BY MAKEUP SORYS. ANA HAIRBY BOZALO. NINA BY STYLING PROP

48 NOVEMBER 2016 O U T 2. 4. EUGENE LEVY, DANIEL LEVY & CATHERINE O’HARA The beloved Canadian comics (and Schitt’s Creek costars) on playing straight, playing not straight, and why their homeland never takes itself too seriously.

t started with a silly little pun, but the Pop network comedy Schitt’s Creek has quickly become one of the biggest, oddest pleasures on television. Co- created by father-and-son team Eugene (of American Pie fame) and Daniel Levy, theI series concerns a formerly rich family cleaned out by tax authorities and forced to live in their only remaining asset: the small town of the show’s title, which they’d bought as a joke years ago. Catherine O’Hara co-stars as the haughty matriarch Moira, an ex–soap opera queen who maintains her commitment to loud haute couture outﬁts and even louder disdain. Annie Murphy plays her daughter, Alexis, a deliciously spoiled brat whose sordid backstory keeps unfolding via throwaway lines (she once woke up on a sheik’s yacht; she forgot to graduate from high school). Then, in a quietly revolutionary twist, there’s the family’s supremely swishy son, David (Daniel Levy), who divulged that he was pansexual in the ﬁrst season. After becoming involved with a female motel clerk named Stevie, he ended season two by hooking up with a male townie woodworker. And PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAITLIN CRONENBERG STYLING BY CHAD BURTON FOR PLUTINO GROUP Daniel promises more to come. “This season we PHOTOGRAPHED AT THE CRYSTAL BALLROOM AT dabble in throuple territory!” he says. “We’re really THE KING EDWARD HOTEL, TORONTO pushing the sexuality forward. It’s going to be juicy

PROP STYLING BY NINA BOZALO. HAIR BY ANA SORYS. MAKEUP BY LUCKY BROMHEAD BROMHEAD LUCKY BY MAKEUP SORYS. ANA HAIRBY BOZALO. NINA BY STYLING PROP and dramatic.”

OUT NOVEMBER 2016 49 This is the sort of storytelling Daniel set out to explore from the beginning. “I think pansexuality is something that is underrepresented in a cultural way, specifically on television,” he says. “I want to tell a very honest story about the character, and hopefully shed light on some aspects of I think Canadians are who he is in a funny and special way.” For all its broadness and loony, puerile humor—Chris very humble. We’re raised Elliott plays the town mayor, Roland Schitt, who hosts a to always be apologizing Web series called Wake Up With the Schitt’s—the series has become less a fish-out-of-water tale and more a portrait of for things. I think with a family coming together amid crisis. “It’s always great to be involved in a comedy like this,” says Eugene. “It’s what I humility comes a lot of call a grounded comedy—grounded in reality and truth.” He describes his father character Johnny as one of the straightest self-awareness, and self- figures he’s portrayed. “I’ve been a character actor my whole deprecation is where life: You put on a funny wig, glasses, and a hat, and off you go,” he says. “I always shied away from playing characters a a lot of comedy lives.” little too close to me, because I didn’t have enough confidence in myself to pull that off. So being a straight man is exciting.” “I love playing Moira for the opposite reason,” O’Hara where David finds an outlet for his fashion frustrations). replies. “With her, I feel like I’m not anywhere close to myself. Or, as Eugene puts it, the new season is just “more of Except maybe me on a bad day.” the same”—which should be perfectly fine, given Levy Sr. Season three, premiering early next year, offers its own set and O’Hara’s incomparable chemistry. The two have been of gonzo surprises. David flirts with commitment, but viewers working together for four decades, first teaming up on the can still expect a fresh batch of sexual escapades. “We’re classic Canadian sketch comedy show Second City Television shaking up the town on all fronts,” says Daniel. Meanwhile, and later achieving icon status with standout performances Canadian guest stars abound, such as Blindspot’s François in the Christopher Guest movies Waiting for Guffman (1996), Arnaud (season two featured Canadian actor and Saturday Best in Show (2000), and A Mighty Wind (2003). Night Live vet Robin Duke as the owner of the Blouse Barn, In conversation and onscreen, they appear more coupley than most couples. When they joined forces for the first season of SCTV in 1976, did they think they’d be working together 40 years on? “I didn’t assume I’d still be alive!” says O’Hara. “I wouldn’t have guessed it,” adds Eugene. “The fact that I’m still working, let alone working with Catherine, is pretty great. A lot of us who started out in Toronto have stayed friends through the years, but my friendship with her is pretty thick and pretty special. We look back at where we started, and we share the same memories. It’s funny how things work out.” Although the actual location of Schitt’s Creek has never been revealed, the series is decidedly Canadian. For one, it seems like a bridge between American sitcoms, whose chief players must almost always be likable, and British comedies, which have for years gazed upon their characters with a rabidly unsympathetic eye. “I think Canadians are very humble,” says Daniel. “We’re raised to always be apologizing for things. I think with humility comes a lot of self-awareness, and self-deprecation is where a lot of comedy lives.” The country would be forgiven for growing some ego. It has shaped so much of America’s comedic landscape, giving us SCTV breakouts like John Candy and Andrea Martin as well as SNL producer Lorne Michaels, Martin Short, The Kids in the Hall, Mike Myers, Jim Carrey, and, most recently, Samantha Bee. So why is Canada so damn funny? “It could be the fact that the country is in winter for six months out of the year,” jokes Daniel. “I think that builds a harder edge into you. We’re also part of the Commonwealth, so we share some of that dark, twisted comedic sensibility with England.” He pauses. “Or maybe it’s the lake water we’re all drinking.”

50 NOVEMBER 2016 O U T 5. 21. BLAME CANADA: A LOOK BACK AT COMEDY’S FUNNIEST NORTHERN EXPORTS

1975: Lorne Michaels defects to New York City and produces the longest-running comedy ensemble show, Saturday Night Live.

1976: SCTV begins on CBC, starring a veritable who’s who of hilarity, from John Candy to Martin Short.

1980: Airplane! goes down in history with Leslie Nielsen playing Dr. Rumack— don’t call him Shirley!

1983: Dan Aykroyd trades places with Eddie Murphy.

1984: Rick Moranis busts ghosts (and eventually shrinks kids).

1989: Kids in the Hall hits American television, starring a whole batch of Canucks including Dave Foley, Kevin McDonald, and openly gay Scott Thompson.

1990: Catherine O’Hara sends Kevin McCallister to bed without dinner in Home Alone.

1991: Phil Hartman moves to Springfi eld, voicing huckster lawyer Lionel Hutz “I always say that Canada is a good straight man,” says and pesca-sexual movie hunk Troy McClure on The Simpsons. O’Hara. “It used to be kind of provincial and conservative. That makes you want to be funny and gives you something 1994: Jim Carrey has a banner year with Ace Ventura: Pet Detective, to make fun of. We’re closer to England than we are to Dumb & Dumber, and The Mask. America, and great comedy comes out of England. The more conservative authority you can lash out against, the more 1995: Could Matthew Perry be any funnier on Friends? wealth of material there is.” Unlike the exiled clowns they portray, the three actors 1997: Mike Myers “yeah-baby”s his marvel at all things north of the border. In Toronto, where way to box offi ce gold in Austin Powers. they’re all based, Daniel recommends the Ossington 1998: Will & Grace—the gay I Love strip, Queen Street East, and Parkdale, all New York–ish Lucy—puts Eric McCormack on the map. neighborhoods packed with cool restaurants and bars. O’Hara 2003: Will Arnett fails at magic, raves about what she calls “the most beautiful place in the chicken impressions, and life alongside world”: Muskoka. “There are clean, clear lakes. Except for the fellow Canadian Michael Cera in Arrested Development. cottages and people, it’s just like it was hundreds of years ago.” Menawhile, Eugene insists, “We have hot weather! 2004: Rachel McAdams rules over And Toronto has more trees than just about any city in the Plastics as queen bee-yotch Regina George in Mean Girls. North America!” On the eve of their show’s third season, the longtime 2005: Cobie Smulders lampoons the Canadian plight on How collaborators ponder a hypothetical: a Schitt’s Creek reunion I Met Your Mother. special, which they anticipate taking place some 20 years from now. Would the family still be stuck in their postmodern 2007: Seth Rogen knocks up Katherine Heigl in, well, you know. Gilligan’s Island scenario? “Moira would not still be in town,” says O’Hara. “God, no. 2016: Samantha Bee crucifi es But for the success of the show, sure!” Trump on Full Frontal, her late-night hit. “After what they’ve done to it, Schitt’s Creek would be a destination to tell your readers about,” says Eugene. “It has so much to offer.” Indeed. —MICHAEL MARTIN

OUT NOVEMBER 2016 51 52 from from street the across located conveniently Olimpico Café at espresso brewed freshly strong, classic. and simple eats morning your keep cuisine, complex night’s last After Montréal. of tour culinary your as today of Think cream. mackerel smoked atangy and nori, and rice puffed with tartar salmon cubed like dishes, whimsical the complements ambiance offbeat-but-homey The bouquets. ﬂower and woodwork, unreﬁned clocks, old with adorned room dining aspacious in plates sharing adventurous serve Johnson Cheryl partner and Crête Charles-Antoine Chef Plaza Montréal town— in restaurants coolest the of one at dinner with adventure Montréal your Start FRIDAY MORNING THURSDAY NIGHT The hipster hood of Mile End boasts boasts End Mile of hood hipster The

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TKTKTKTK Crew &Café Collective Luzia Boulevard St-Laurent Phi Centre Bota Bota in Montréal, Hourani hasbeen on the forefront of genderless St-Viateur carriesstylish-yet- an espresso bar andabarber now has13stores worldwide This booming lifestyleThis booming brand fashion for years, becoming grooming kits,andcontains and its Mile End digsonrue (including three in the U.S.), the ﬁ Canadiandesignerrst invited to show hisunisex affordable menswear and Born in Jordan andbased tion? Tilda Swinton, obvs. shop. couture at Paris Fashion Week. inspira- His main RAD HOURANI RAD FRANK FRANK & OAK RadHourani.com FrankAndOak.com BASED FASHION BASED SHOULD KNOW 4 LABELS YOULABELS MONTR 44 . OUT textured suits—andincludesa an express stopjust to admire selection ofselection nichefragrances. Dubuc’s minimalist boutique bespectacled designer, and epitomizes hisstreamlined, 47

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55 ETIENNE ST-DENIS (PIRATE). PAMELA LITTKY (TEGAN AND SARA) ETIENNE ST-DENIS (PIRATE). PAMELA LITTKY (TEGAN AND SARA) film soundtrack.” have beenoutof place onan ’80s Gabriel or something that wouldn’t “It reminds meabitof Peter Sean Nicholas Savage “L andaddictive.”affecting “It’s slightly retro butsurprisingly TOPS Morning Chimes” “The Hollow Soundof the really easy to putonrepeat.” and nostalgic about this song. I findit “There modern issomethingboth DIANA “Slipping Away” melancholy and haunting.” specifically—and Syd’s voice—feels top albumsof the year. This song “This electronic record isoneof my Kaytranada (feat. Syd) “You’re the One” chooses her current favorite bytracks fellow Canadians. The singer-songwriter—and one half of the pop duo didn’t talk I really which song in first the was “This explains. too complicated,” she to “I didn’t want domusic. something her in a shift she says marks that Blanc,” afor track “Drapeau You you live and learn.” I’ve itpoint sheseen all,” “I says. out. don’tthis coming regret with Alex Peyrat, her partner and the father of her child. “At miserable and who is not honest about her true life.” daughter.her Ito who didn’t want is look somebody at me as my with honest I being wasn’t my in honest marriage. being I wasn’t she to “I says. needed be straightforward. families,” daynot had come out that to died their lot people ofthat the forced lives, her to up open a to her loved ones. “I realized their lost where 49LGBT club people at Pulse Orlando, the in tragedy the that de Pirate—admits Coeur name, stage happens because it has to happen.” “You out,”don’t onthat coming plan she “It’ssays. something summer. to come out never this expected Martin Béatrice SARA QUIN’S ROAD PLAYLIST TRIP ROAD QUIN’S SARA POP SINGER YOU NEED TO KNOW THE FABULOUS, FEARLESS FRENCH-CANADIAN COEUR DE PIRATE 49 48 et Me Out” Martin’s 4-year-oldMartin’s daughter, Romy, her video in appears a split including of pain, share a fair came candor that With 27-year-oldThe by her singer—better known Montréal . . 62

Purity Ring “Be “So hipithurts.” Majid Jordan (feat. Drake) “My this track. It’s insaneandﬁerce!” “I can’t think of anything likethat sounds A Tribe Called Red (feat. Tanya Tagaq) “Sila” andmeditative.”smooth punch of politics stillwhile remaining love“I asong that canbeapower Braids “Miniskirt” They are of sounafraid their strength.” best, with ridiculously strong vocals. “I think this bandisoneof our country’s White Lung “Hungry” production. loveI the fresh sounds.” “They’re really leading the pack on gin Again”gin (HEALTH Remix) Love” (Remix) Tegan and Sara and Tegan

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Enfants” could be interpreted as a tale of a woman’s crush on she says. (Upon closer her reading, 2009 hit “Commes des to moretelling stories herpersonal with songwriting. (and album U.S. debut), heras “growing up,” and looks forward She recording describes now top herselfﬁnds at40—Martin a Canadian crossroads. On” spent 11 consecutive “Carry weeks at number one on the in French,France—she but sings primarily her recent single new direction.” clean, to wanted goa sophisticated, in loveabout or I broken and love. motherhood, about It was purpose to you what do.”purpose helped,’ you—that of knew sense ” she “Itsays. another gives they because important ityou,I was mentioned and and mewrite say,and “Fans will ‘I got toto my talk parents, out more there,”stories are there of these she says. means come queer—thatout as “I’m when happy artists always fans. another woman in while a arelationship with man.) after afewlistens.” melodies and words sink inhard “It’slittle but a opaqueatﬁrst, the Pr “Anxiety” It’s eeriebutslick. to this track bywith production Rostam. but I found myself back gravitating “ Carly Rae Jepsen “Warm Blood” E.MO.TION eoccupations “I get to draw that’s anot narrative so heteronormative,” A celebrated pop in hersensation homeland and in Her newfound frankness has also proved a foralso boon her has frankness Her newfound

was areally solid album, Roses, — MICHAEL LAMBERT her acclaimed third studio studio herthird acclaimed they’re almost spoken-word.” strong, and likeI the short phrasings— bouncy andodd. The melodiesare really “I can’t get enoughof this one. It’s Jessy Lanza “VV Violence” ripped upby hearing live.”this song days; I canimagine having my ears “This bringsmeback to my punk rock METZ “Eraser” OUT

NOVEMBER 2016

57 63. 84. ROAD TRIP: ONE WEEK IN NEWFOUNDLAND

There’s an old saying in Canada’s easternmost province: “In heaven, how do you tell the difference between a Newfoundlander and everyone else? The Newfoundlander wants to go home.”

Though it may sound a bit precious, Newfoundlanders take great pride in their home—a land that, until 1949, was its own dominion and still feels markedly different from the rest of Canada. Its salt-of-the-earth locals are not only proud to be the descendants of those who battled the elements; they’re proud to lay claim to a realm of unarguable beauty. After a week of driving through Newfoundland, you’ll ﬁnd that, in fact, you’re already in heaven. —BRANDON PRESSER

DAY 1: ST. JOHN’S permanent so-called “outports” Start the morning by exploring in this area, in the second half Cape Spear, the place where of the 18th century, and today, North America receives its first an eponymous 160-mile circle ray of sunlight, and feel the showcases its friendly fishing unforgiving weather coming off villages set among some the Atlantic. of Canada’s most stunning For grub, hit up the inlet scenery. of Quidi Vidi at the adorably Link up with Stan Cook appointed Mallard Cottage (StanCook.ca) for a “go and (MallardCottage.ca). Its take- tow” kayaking tour through Avalon Peninsula away box of brunch desserts a hidden fjord, and then is practically tailor-made for travel down to Ferryland road trips. Then, wash it down for a gourmet picnic with a blue-bottled Iceberg (LighthousePicnics.ca) along ale at the Quidi Vidi Brewery the grassy bluff. Wind in and (QuidiVidiBrewery.ca) across out of the faraway fishing the street. communities, and before rolling In the afternoon, give your back into the capital in the journey a bit of context by evening, loop through scenic walking through The Rooms Petty Harbour to chow down (TheRooms.ca), a veritable on fish and chips at Chafe’s Wikipedia of Newfoundland’s Landing (ChafesLanding.com). history annotated by artifacts, dioramas, and short films. DAY 3: ST. JOHN’S TO THE (Don’t miss the view of the city BONAVISTA PENINSULA from the top floor.) For dinner, Meet Lori McCarthy of Cod reserve a table at The Merchant Sounds (CodSounds.ca) for a the morning’s ingredients storybook charm. Unpack at Tavern (TheMerchantTavern morning of foraging along the together for a delicious lunch. Artisan Inn (TrinityVacations. .ca) to gorge on the raw bar and beaches and fields of Trinity Hit the road again, belly com), a family-run cluster of inventive seafood favorites. Bay. She is the behind-the- full, for the town of Trinity, historical rooms and cottages. scenes pro who sustainably famously featured in the You should have a bit of time DAY 2: THE IRISH LOOP delivers wild ingredients to the film The Shipping News. to meander through the local The Avalon Peninsula juts out region’s top chefs. Search for Once a shipbuilding hub, village before indulging in a beyond the rest of the island everything from cockles and the town’s expert craftsmen glass of sundowner wine and of Newfoundland like eager sea urchin to wild blueberries added flourishes to its an impeccably prepared cod fingers reaching for Europe. The and mint, and then boil them up seaside homes, which lend dinner at Artisan’s restaurant, COURTESY NEWFOUNDLAND TOURISM (BRIGUS WHITE WHITE (BRIGUS TOURISM NEWFOUNDLAND COURTESY BRANDONPRESSER PENINSULA). AVALON HOUSE, DIBBEN EMMA BY ILLUSTRATION MAP Irish were the first to establish beachside as McCarthy brings the community its enduring Twine Loft. (COD SOUNDS)

58 NOVEMBER 2016 O U T Cod Sounds

Brigus White House, Avalon

DAY 4: TRINITY hardships the locals endured Enjoy breakfast and scenic supplying London its lamp oil views from your wooden throughout the 19th century. craftsman cottage, then hike At the tip of the peninsula the Skerwink Trail—three is the Cape Bonavista miles of manicured track that Lighthouse, a hot spot traces cliffs of turreted granite, for Instagramming, short winds through forested patches coastal walks, and whale of tuckamore, and passes watching. Do dinner early vistas where humpbacks at Bonavista Social Club breach in the distance. (BonavistaSocialClub.com) Afterward, reward yourself in Upper Amherst Cove. Built with a pint of Baycation Blonde on owners Katie and Shane hop aboard a Zodiac tour by make a toast to your at the always-social Port Hayes’s rural property, the Sea of Whales Adventures incredible week with a prix Rexton Brewing Company small restaurant promises (SeaOfWhales.com) for an fixe experience at Raymonds (PortRextonBrewing.com). garden-grown greens, wood- up-close experience with these (RaymondsRestaurant.com), fired pizzas, fresh moose gentle beasts as they glide often lauded as Canada’s best DAY 5: BONAVISTA burgers, and views of fin- through the deep and puff restaurant since its inception in Start making tracks toward the flipping whales in the bay at plumes of mist at the surface. 2010. A sincere passion for the tip of the Bonavista Peninsula, sunset. Bonus: Katie’s father On your way back to St. John’s, plate comes through in every stopping first in Elliston for makes all of the furniture and it’s well worth dipping off the dish—from the cod with a pork up-close birdwatching at the wooden dishware by hand. highway to poke your nose reduction sauce to the savory aptly named Puffin Site, before around a few of the lesser- chunks of PEI beef tartare—and

having a look at the John C. DAY 6: BONAVISTA PENINSULA known outports, like Tickle sommelier Jeremy Bonia (see Crosbie Sealers Interpretation TO ST. JOHN’S Cove, with its ochre cliffs and Liquidity, page 18) pairs his Centre (HomeFromTheSea. If you didn’t manage to spot gravity-defying sea arch. wines in a manner that’s both COURTESY NEWFOUNDLAND TOURISM (BRIGUS WHITE WHITE (BRIGUS TOURISM NEWFOUNDLAND COURTESY BRANDONPRESSER PENINSULA). AVALON HOUSE, DIBBEN EMMA BY ILLUSTRATION MAP (COD SOUNDS) ca) to fully appreciate the any whales from the shoreline, For dinner in the capital, playful and informative.

OUT NOVEMBER 2016 59 85. FOGO ISLAND INN

This is a story of iconography, Inn harnesses the power of a story of sustainability so geotourism to accentuate profound that it’s shifting the unique attributes of Canada’s center of gravity the destination and create away from its cities by buoyancy in a spiraling fishing highlighting the country’s most economy. unexpected natural resource— The inn provides jobs to its people. a legion of employees, all Fogo Island is at the end of whom come from tightly of the world: a rocky outcrop knit communities whose in the North Atlantic, loosely provenance is discernable by tethered to Newfoundland by the twangs in their Newfie a bumpy ferry. It’s so far-flung brogue. But more critically, the that the Flat Earth Society inn acts as an organic conduit believes it to be one of the between visitors and locals. four corners of the two- Your first morning on the dimensional planet—warning property includes a pairing signs are duly posted alerting with a community member travelers to the doom that lies who guides you around the ahead. island without a script or But recently, Fogo has seen a an agenda—just a sense of surge in visitors, many of exploration and pride in whom are bypassing the their salty home. Boat rides, more obvious destinations hikes, fishing excursions, and in Maritime Canada. gourmet meals showcasing They’re coming to stand in local seafood are also on offer, front of Fogo Island Inn further cracking the secret (FogoIslandInn.ca), a structure code of authentic experiences, so striking and unexpected—a human connections, and the construction that will take serendipity that all modern its place in the architectural travelers crave. annals alongside the Sydney There’s something strange Opera House—that it begs to that happens when you be witnessed in real life. prepare to depart: It might be While the iconic facade the only time in your travels ignites both the imagination that you’ll ever find yourself and interest in the destination, hugging the concierge and it’s not the bones of the inn front-desk managers as you but its soul that has travelers leave. talking about their experiences And when you drive away, on Fogo in hushed tones. peering through the rearview The brainchild of the mirror at the strange white Shorefast Foundation, a structure and its toothpick not-for-profit organization legs, you’ll realize it’s the new dedicated to maintaining the friendships forged that will vitality of the island’s small leave the indelible mark in communities through adaptive your memory.

social enterprise, Fogo Island —BRANDON PRESSER ROOM) (DINING ISLANDINN FOGO OF COURTESY BRANDONPRESSER. OF COURTESY

60 NOVEMBER 2016 O U T 86. SAINT-PIERRE & MIQUELON Decidedly not Canada, this geographical anomaly drifts just a short one-hour boat ride off the coast of Newfoundland. After swapping hands between the British and French for several centuries, the island was reclaimed by the French, who erected a permanent settlement in 1816 to better lay claim to the vast fishing banks offshore. A little slice of Europe in North America (where, yes, euros are used), it was instrumental in the smuggling of booze from Canada to the United States during Prohibition. Its colorful flag represents explorer Jacques Cartier’s vessel and the flags of the Basque, Breton, and Norman citizens who first established the present-day collectivity.

87. CANADIAN MUSEUM OF HISTORY Located in Gatineau, Québec, across the river from the Canadian parliament in Ottawa, this museum is a striking masterpiece by aboriginal architect Douglas Cardinal. The swooshing design mimics the bedrock of the Canadian Shield and remains without oblique angles throughout, as the devil is thought to live in the corners, accord- ing to local lore. Not to be missed is the First Peoples Hall, which features tens of thousands of years of aboriginal achievements, as well as the world’s oldest hockey stick. Seriously. (HistoryMuseum.ca)

88. CANADA’S CASTLE HOTELS The Canadian Paciﬁc Railway began in the early 1880s. A necklace of luxurious castle-clad hotels were constructed just a couple of years later when railway grade levels in the Rockies were deemed too steep for dining service. The Banff Springs Hotel and the Château Lake Louise—both in Alberta—are perennial faves, but the Château Frontenac in Québec City marked the advent of luxury travel in Canada and is the crowning achievement of the collection, united under the Fairmont name as of 1990.

OUT NOVEMBER 2016 61 62 CANADIAN POP DIVAS, DIVAS, POP CANADIAN

NOVEMBER

RANKED 2016 89 fashion—those neckties! We weren’t neckties! fashion—those genderless with curve the of ahead was pop-rocker petite this ’00s, early the In 5 Underrated track Underrated Now” Me to track top Our (Sorry.) is. it way the that’s and top, the at herself by all is On”) Go Will Heart (“My history in songs celebrated most the of one behind powerhouse vocal titanic The acontest. were there if As 1 That” Say track Underrated track top Our much. us impressed indeed has and album— studio ﬁfth her up whipping she’s residency, aVegas and tour global a After Ontario! North—northern the from hails rather but South American the isn’t from music country of history the in artist female best-selling The 2 track Underrated track top Our top. on bubblegum EP, latest Her fun. up-tempo ’90s-inspired of masterwork 2015’s of wake the in Not list? our on high so rank to songstress Maybe” Me “Call the for soon too it Is 3 track Underrated Love)” Me (Forgive track top Our from irony toeverything about India. Oughta Know.” Since then, she’s crooned anthem “Youbreakout woman-scorned Morissette emerged as a pop poet with her The female answer to ’90s male grunge, 4 track Underrated track top Our h8ers. be won’t we so split, since they’ve but Kroeger, Chad Nickelback’s with up hooked singer Boi” “Sk8er the when thrilled . CÉLINE DION CÉLINE . . AVRILLAVIGNE . SHANIA TWAIN SHANIA . . CARLY. JEPSEN RAE . ALANIS MORISSETTE . ALANIS .

T U O 93 . : “It’s All Coming Back Back Coming All : “It’s Always” For and : “Forever Kiss” : “This : “Your House : “Complicated” Side B, Side : “Crazy” (Seal cover) (Seal : “Crazy” Girl” : “Bad : “Roses” : “On Ne Change Pas” Change Ne : “On You Made : “What is just the the just is E.MO.TION, a

DEGRASSI 95 it’s as popular it was 500 years ago. the ice was the going,best thing but today in always-hip Canada traced back to in Scotland the 1500s, when stones guiding across Sunday yourafternoon with alcoholic spinster aunt. someone wearing a neon furiously sweeps—basically tracksuit appear“highlights” to be nothing but a lot of screaming while from clip to clip except maybe (maybe?) the people. These needs to be nothing noteworthy,highlighted, nothing different thing. incredibly Canadian popular baffling, but too. pastime, is…a mind as the thing, curling great A Canadian can’t shoulder prowessathletic because, well, Céline Dion is a slight woman and When it comes are toproud winter Canadians sports, of their that for pretty much everything, feelings. our out yell and a coat, would make this game better? Ice!? Let’s cool things down, put on but set someonemade on think, ice! What it to any number of boring games—shuffleboard, boules, chess— . But what exactly But what exactly And yet loves Canada it some Curling’s curling. be can origins reel Ahighlight curling is an oxymoron. There’s nothing that WHAT IN THE H-E-DOUBLE-HOCKEY-STICKS ALL THE BASICS, BASICS, THE ALL all IS THIS NATIONAL SPORT? the pride.national Hockey obviously comes to CURLING: CURLING: fall fall in love with inDylan what was a life-changing moment for came out in a 1998 episode. Since then, we’ve seen Marco brother, Glen, who was disowned by their parents when he television.network first Its gay character was Archie’s older including ofstories LGBT teens long before it was the norm for couldjuicy plotlines handle. ourhormonal hearts little school special since the all ’80s, serving the overdramatic Drake’s career. It’s after- jump-starting ultimate the been Canada’s teen soap BITCHES is The show has been also a constant display of diversity, curling? A curling? quick compareGoogle search will But doit seems like Canadians eh? 94 Degrassi . is responsible for more than just Hey, you know what

AP (LAVIGNE, MORISSETTE, JEPSEN, TWAIN, AND DION). SHUTTERSTOCK (CURLING, AND CANADA FLAG T-SHIRT) AP (LAVIGNE, MORISSETTE, JEPSEN, TWAIN, AND DION). SHUTTERSTOCK (CURLING, AND CANADA FLAG T-SHIRT) heroine Offred, it’s sure to be a success. success. a be to sure it’s Offred, heroine as starring Moss Elisabeth with And Hulu. on series a as 2017 early in again once life to come will story drawn deftly Atwood’s themselves. points plot the as compelling as are ﬁ of Gilead ctional descriptors the that brushstrokes vivid such with worlds her dystopian paints Atwood classics. Canadian of guard new the represents Handmaid’s Tale Canada’s canonical piece of literature, Although Finger, Manitoba Scotia Creek, Nova Balls Spuzzum, B.C. Ontario Corners, Punkeydoodles Dildo, Newfoundland Crotch Lake, Ontario Blow Me Down, Newfoundland Saskatchewan Climax, are real destinations in Canada. Believe it or not, all of the following places TALE THE HANDMAID’S NAMES PLACEWEIRD Morissette and Chaz Bono. fromcameos the likes of Alanis It’sschool. had also some noteworthy beingafter Degrassi bullied at his last the trans kid who transferred to when he comes out as gay; and Adam, Riley, the jock who shocks everyone include Paige, the bipopular mean girl; of our other favorite queer characters Some viewers. millennial countless 104 96 . . Anne of Green Gables

103 . , by Margaret Atwood, Atwood, Margaret by , is is The The followed suit. suit. followed U.S. the before years 10 full a 2005, 20, July on legalized was marriage Same-sex D. Answer: d) 10 c) 7 4 b) 1 a) America? before years many how marriage same-sex legalized Canada Party. Conservative Progressive for the 1993 in Canada of as the 19thprimeminister served Campbell Kim A. Answer: d) Never c) 2009 1998 b) 1993 a) state took office in: Canada’s first female head of 1891. in Naismith James byOntarian invented was Basketball B. Answer: d) soccer volleyball c) basketball b) baseball a) in Canada? Which sport was invented sic awards. Céline Dion has20. Answer: C. They are Canada’s mu- Tonys the d) Grammys the c) Emmys b) the Oscars the a) of: version Canadian the are Awards Juno The coming into the UnitedStates. But what about Americans who want leave?to Let’s face it— imagining the Don in the Oval Office isscary living enough; through itisnext-level trauma. But before you pick out the mostflattering hockey jersey andpractice your CITIZENSHIP QUIZ! QUIZ! CITIZENSHIP Presidential hopeful Donald Trump promised “extreme vetting” for foreign nationals It’s no wonder, then, that somany Americans joke (or aboutmoving not) to Canada. you too should vet yourself before you wreck yourself, Canada-style. Which constitutional amend- Answer: C. You’re welcome. You’reC. welcome. Answer: d) the Swiffer jockstrap a into slides that cup hard the c) box delivery the to sticking from pizza keeps that prong plastic little b) the scorekeeping golf mini- for used pencil tiny the a) invention? obscure which to claim lay can Canada parallel. 82nd the above located is Alert B. Answer: Caution d) Warning c) b) Alert Help a) ofcalled: is and Nunavut cated in the Canadian territory settlement in the world is lo- permanent northernmost The all ridiculous. are of them—they None Answer: arms moose to right the d) arms deer to right the c) arms fox to right b) the arms bear to right the a) Canada? in exist not does ment 105 . 114 . Canada’s national animal is: is: animal national Canada’s C. 11 points. points. 11 C. Answer: d) 15 c) 11 9 b) 7 a) leaf? maple Canadian the on there are points many How immigrants. by European standardized later was lacrosse Canada, day aboriginal inpresent- nations by the Created D. Answer: lacrosse d) apologizing c) basket-weaving b) fi a) shing offi sport? summer cial Canada’s is What sport. winter Hockey isCanada’s official pelt. its for coveted and dam-building its for admired was beaver the 1678, as Hudson Bay Company asearly fl of the ag the on Appearing A. Answer: Sasquatch d) walrus the c) loon b) the beaver the a) OUT

NOVEMBER eh s, maybe 2016

63 64 ANCOUVER E V U O C N VA ISLAND 115

NOVEMBER . 122 .

2016

T U O

— it. Here’s waves. how to navigate the beyond world a there’s forget and to unwind place ideal It’s the at. lion asea shake you can than air fresh more and spots, surfing of plenty birding, fishing, recreational abundant There’s Sound. Clayoquot ofthe edge the at town forested densely sightseeing. and pubs, restaurants, with packed bikeable—downtown better, even walkable—but a getaway, weekend with awonderful is capital quiet Columbia’s British Seattle. and Vancouver equidistant) roughly (and nearby than rainy less but climate in mild is Victoria, city, largest Its gridiron. to Canada’s antidote the is Island Vancouver wild, and quaint Both MATTHEW BREEN Tofino, up the island’s western shoreline, is a remote and and aremote is shoreline, western Tofino, island’s the up

COURTESY OF T’ASHII PADDLE SCHOOL. COURTESY OF KERRY DUFF (FAIRMONT EMPRESS HOTEL) COURTESY OF T’ASHII PADDLE SCHOOL. COURTESY OF KERRY DUFF (FAIRMONT EMPRESS HOTEL) Canadians. most coveted hotel for experiences tea in the Lobby Lounge—one of the rooms and suites. Don’t afternoon miss torefurbs and itsstylish 464 restaurants be completed May 2017) ushering in new undergoing arenovation $30 million (to (see page the country 62). Today it’s travel train across of the rise luxury during Railroad Paciﬁc Canadian in 1908, the Empress was built by the symbol of the city itself. Established is dame grande the building—this up view of parliament the provincial Victoria’s Inner Harbour—and a close- pointvantage over unparalleled With an THE FAIRMONT EMPRESS HOTEL VICTORIA

Fairmont.com/Empress T’ashii Paddle School, Tofino serious serious green designedthumb a garden In 1904, a cement tycoon’s a wife with and premier dining experience Pointe experience and premier dining spa, intimate an suites, and rooms appointed forests, housing individually integrated into the old-growth cedar are artfully buildings contemporary Thesea. rustic-yet-refined inn’s two window picture views ofto-ceiling the soaker tub in every room with floor- Beach, and the giant Chesterman from Ocean Pacific surfer-paradise the incredible, 240-degree view of the Relais &property: Chateaux soothing at this Among the many highlights cream joint too. ice maybe artisanal an highlights—and sample farm-to-table and craft-beer “Hoppy Hour,” which make stops to Pedal.” are and the Drink. “Eat. neighborhoods. Two standout tours seaside and suburbs, funky castles, guide you around town, stopping at with some wheels—or better yet, and the Pedaler is there to outfit you from the seat ofbicycle, a cruiser city The best way to view Victoria may be .com from of blooming reds, and purples, pinks, decorative gardens overflow acres with come for a cup of Grey. Earl Inthe spring site—andhistoric a national you still can now are gardens of acres 55 The tea. for and estate, family their friends hosting the hollowed-outto on beautify quarry THE BUTCHART GARDENS WICKANINNISH INN THE PEDALER TOFINO Fairmont Empress Hotel Empress Fairmont Arabis to Viola. ThePedaler.ca

ButchartGardens

cabins at the endcabins of the boardwalk the forest;through there are changing for several meandering miles the path shoes and good walking a swimsuit Bring boat. by Inlet—is Sydney the to intopools before small down splashing burbles spring—that out of the forest The best way hot to natural reach this growth ecosystem. Chesterman Beach, exploring the old- of forests the through tour on a tailored T’ashii Paddle School, guides visitors co-owner of the Tsimka Martin, heart. ofrediscovery to First Nations traditions and non-native locals have taken the recent generations of both aboriginal of the Tla-o-qui-aht people, and Tofino territory lies on the traditional WolfInTheFog.com octopus. BookMost ahead. importantly: and save room for the spicedMoroccan oyster crusted apple with and truffle, Go for the signature dish, the potato- feel inventive but not overwrought. that Manhattan) cedar-infused-rye the foraged(try plates and cocktails assortment of seasonal and sometimes- Chef-owner Nick createsNutting an vessel. Zodiac foot seal, and sea lion spotting from a 29- adventure, which includes whale, otter, 6 a for Station Whaling Jamie’s to the hot pools. at Book passage before you scramble over some boulders views). ocean (with panoramic Restaurant HOT SPRINGS COVE ADVENTURE COVE HOT SPRINGS T’ASHII PADDLE SCHOOL WOLF IN THE FOG THE IN WOLF WickInn.com OUT Jamies.com TofinoPaddle.com

NOVEMBER ½ 2016 -hour

65 123. 136. WEST QUEEN WEST A WALK THROUGH TORONTO’S CREATIVE CORE

Away from the corporate hustle and enjoy a spot of tea—with a scone—while imposing glass towers of downtown, browsing cutting-edge installations on Toronto’s west end is where the real the upper ﬂoors. action happens. West Queen West, as More eye candy awaits as you head locals have dubbed it, is the lesser- east toward Ossington Avenue. Check out explored stretch of the city’s main shop- the nearby Twist Gallery (TwistGallery ping thoroughfare. It remains relatively .ca)—a 5,000-square-foot converted loft spared from mega-chain stores while ca- space with arched windows and exposed tering to a gayer, art-savvier population. wooden beams—showcasing noteworthy Start your day at the Gladstone Hotel local photographers and art events. (GladstoneHotel.com), a historic land- Down a few blocks, the Stephen Bulger DandyLion mark and cultural center where you can Gallery (BulgerGallery.com) is one of MAP ILLUSTRATION BY EMMA DIBBEN. COURTESY OF LOCATIONS LOCATIONS OF COURTESY DIBBEN. EMMA BY ILLUSTRATION MAP

66 NOVEMBER 2016 O U T In Abstracto

Gladstone Hotel

The Drake

the most respected photography stateside, then showrooms in the country. Recent raid the racks at exhibits have included works by I Miss You for Joel Meyerowitz and Vivian Maier, secondhand de- and Bulger also hosts free ﬁlm signer steals and Carter serves modern French screenings every Saturday in vintage accessories. Around the cuisine. The tiny open-brick space, their 50-seat projection room and corner, Gravity Pope (GravityPope. which was entirely refurbished by Style Garage bar, Camera. com) is known as the most so- Carter and his father to accom- For some retail therapy, start phisticated shoe store in Toronto. modate just 30 seats, ranks sixth a boutique hotel (no relation to with In Abstracto (InAbstracto It’s tastefully furnished with Louis in this year’s coveted Canada’s 100 the T-dot-born rapper), houses .wordpress.com), a lesbian-run XVI–style commodes, rococo Best Restaurants. a concert venue in its basement, design store with a selection of chandeliers, and a stunning glass- West Queen West is also a the Drake Underground. Before mid-century furniture and jewelry and-brass 1930s Deco staircase, all booming nightlife hub. Hole-in- heading home, stop by its adjacent by independent artisans. Style sourced from an old movie theater the-wall LGBT resto-bar The concept store (DrakeGeneralStore. Garage (StyleGarage.com) has in- in Buenos Aires. Beaver (TheBeaverToronto.com) ca)—the best spot to pick up dustrial-chic homeware displayed For lunch, head across the av- has DJ sets, dress-up karaoke, last-minute quirky Canadian throughout its two levels, and ships enue to Union (Union72.ca), a new and irreverent Friday theme memorabilia such as Blue Jays anything worldwide, from custom and noteworthy farm-to-table bis- nights like “Puppy Love” geared baseball shirts (written in Japanese) upholstery and factory chairs to tro with a beer garden. Discerning toward twinks and their daddies. and Yukon-themed dinnerware. lush sectionals by local interiors diners should hit up veggie-centric The Drake (TheDrakeHotel.ca), — JULIEN SAUVALLE brand Gus Modern. Dandylion (RestaurantDandylion Bookworms unite at the diminu- .com), where veteran chef Jay tive Weekend Variety, an indie books-and-art shop owned by a former New York publisher. The dollhouse-like space has curated reads, collectible prints, and highly giftable stationery. Look out for the Queer Scout stickers and Toronto-based illustrator Stephanie Cheng’s hilarious “Hotline Bling”– inspired pins. Splurge on some made-in- Toronto menswear at Annie Aime (Shop.AnnieAime.com), which stocks Outclass and Kovalum, two labels nearly impossible to ﬁnd Annie Aime

MAP ILLUSTRATION BY EMMA DIBBEN. COURTESY OF LOCATIONS LOCATIONS OF COURTESY DIBBEN. EMMA BY ILLUSTRATION MAP Twist Gallery

OUT NOVEMBER 2016 67 68 I always felt, however, it that was back together. parents getting their of fantasy a always Rory—there’s for from kids broken homes—like of people hated Christopher, but always ofsort “team Luke.” A lot fan’s I perspective, towas, be honest, throughout the series, but from a the super-objectivewas That Lorelai [Laurenwith Graham]. always wanted to get back together me whenChristopher that I started showrunner, made it very clear to the Amy Sherman-Palladino, States. United and the differences between Canada and offered on perspective his the some light onof the return the series upcaught the actor, with who shed “chapters” on November 25). We will premiere four new 90-minute of episodes (Netﬂinstallment ix month forthis returns a ﬁhiatus, nal Girls Bledel) onshowhit the the father of Rory Gilmore (Alexis is best forknown playing Christopher, Sutcliffe in Canada, Born and raised original series?original your during the for hopes Christopher arc the bookended show. What were Luke and Lorelai’s will-they-won’t-they IN CONVERSATION WITH OUR CANADIAN CRUSH DAVID SUTCLIFFE DAVID 137 ing topless photobomb- Trudeauloves celebrity swagger; of state with such we seenahead sinceNot JFK have The Hunky Politico man meat from across the border. Aubrey (who?). Rating our favorite Two Justins, two Ryans, and an NIPPLE COUNT: COUNT: NIPPLE JUSTIN TRUDEAU BACON BACON CANADIAN

138 NOVEMBER , awhich, after nine-year . . 142 —

2016 . BRANDON BRANDON PRESSER

T U O Gilmore The The Pop Sensation love a worldleader indenim. a wet suit to aCanadian tuxedo—got to We’ve seen Trudeau ineverything from throughout history. Homo Electus! to gay Canadiansfor their persecution parade. He alsopublicly apologized Canadian PM to march ina Pride This year Trudeau became the ﬁ rst (Google it.) and doinghandstandsindeep Vs. JUSTIN BIEBER SCORE: SIZZLE STYLE: OF SENSE GAY FAN BASE: NIPPLE COUNT: COUNT: NIPPLE Biebs hasgiven the paparazzi intention anyway. doomed—and it neverwas Amy’s there’s always longing and what-ifs. and longing always there’s but he’s in, place the That’s it’s OK. you decide but youway wanted, the go always doesn’t Life right? we older, get as happens which life, his in settled and he’s happy think I episodes, new these in him meet we When ofhim. best the to get seems always that ashadow has he and sadness, and ofregrets lot a with He’s aguy right. feels him with happens that Everything these new episodes? How do you in feel Christopher about and Lorelai. kind of felt that way with Christopher but you’re not tomeant be together. I you love someone, and they love you, wasn’t a good Sometimes motivation. the past, but while noble, it actually to aright hewrong trying from was way. On some level I always felt like and lovable own in charming his guy,unreliable but he certainly was always was Christopher set up this as Wechemistry. each liked other a lot. Oh, deﬁnitely. and Lauren I had great chemistry! But you and Lorelai had such undeniable some seriousnorthern expo- 11 / 15

our cupof tea. drop-crotch pantsaren’t exactly hair oversize experiments, Ts, and for hispopicon status,buthis weird loveHigh-fashion designers Bieber ourearn love. “Sorry,” hehasn’t donea lot whole to Aside from the up-tempo megahit trunks. in hisCK decent chunk he hidesa too, proving southern bits seen the sure. We’ve SIZZLE SCORE: SCORE: SIZZLE SENSE BASE: GAY

FAN

STYLE: 9 / 15

uncomfortable with that concept. concept. that with uncomfortable are Canadians successful. extremely and wealthy extremely are who those to celebrate inclined more Iﬁ it. are against Americans nd ofpushback alot there’s climate political current the in and culture, ofthe part as accepted generally seems America in Elitism schools. top Canada’s than feeling different have avery they that understand to universities League Ivy about enough Iknow point this At inform your perspective of America? How did Rory’s League Ivy upbringing Canadians are Canadians the assame them? Do youthat assume think Americans minuses. and pluses its has system, political and system value any like that, system value different in.” on It’s a join so we’re what like, is this country, to our “Come attitude: ahistorical is pot melting America’s thing.” your do and religion, and culture your bring country, our into “Come means: multiculturalism Canada’s pot. melting the versus together.” this in “being about community—more about more is Canada whereas liberty, individual on founded was America Ultimately it’s multiculturalism it’s multiculturalism Ultimately moves in sweatpanted His geeky, cute is that!? Aubrey—how real nameis “Work.” And his “One Dance” to Rihanna’s summer jam without grinding to oneof hishits,from It’s impossible to go to agay club wraps. Drake mostly keeps everything under selﬁes andperforming in tank tops, enough! Not Aside from taking poolside The Sensitive Sensitive The Rapper STYLE SENSE GAY NIPPLE COUNT: COUNT: NIPPLE DRAKE

FAN :

BASE

JORDAN STRAUSS/INVISION/AP, FILE (BIEBER). AP PHOTO/ KOJI UEDA (TRUDEAU). RYAN EMBERLEY/INVISION/AP (DRAKE).

ERIC CHARBONNEAU/INVISION FOR LIONSGATE / AP IMAGES (GOSLING). ERIC CHARBONNEAU/INVISION FOR TWENTIETH CENTURY FOX HOME ENTERTAINMENT/AP IMAGES (REYNOLDS) JORDAN STRAUSS/INVISION/AP, FILE (BIEBER). AP PHOTO/ KOJI UEDA (TRUDEAU). RYAN EMBERLEY/INVISION/AP (DRAKE).

ERIC CHARBONNEAU/INVISION FOR LIONSGATE / AP IMAGES (GOSLING). ERIC CHARBONNEAU/INVISION FOR TWENTIETH CENTURY FOX HOME ENTERTAINMENT/AP IMAGES (REYNOLDS) memory. Hollywood in recent scenes shirtless the best oflisticle a readslike filmography shy: His isn’t skin- Reynolds The Action Hero menswearline. costume andsparked Drizzy’s own “Hotline Bling” madeafun Halloween NIPPLE COUNT: COUNT: NIPPLE REYNOLDS RYAN SCORE: SIZZLE 10 / 15 to Steve Carell? which Gosling flaunts his Ryan Junior Stupid, Love films, and who canforget that us inhis with bulging tighty-whities likes The Ontario native to tease The Hollywood Darling muse wife, Blake Lively. lists, bolstered by his he’s aregular onbest-dressed Elegant onandoff the camera, See previous. GAY FAN BASE: GAY COUNT: NIPPLE GOSLING RYAN SCORE: SIZZLE STYLE: OF SENSE

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12 / 15 Vogu e- Crazy, how nice we how nice see and sometime game to ahockey You go should nice!” so are you guys love “I Canadians— like, are People Canada? you’re from them tell you when reactions Americans’ are What don’t possess. Americans that ofhumility amount a certain have and Britain to Great connected we’re Queen, the under Being sense. political the in that Idon’t mean and conservative— more and reserved more alittle are Canadians to it. atruth there’s but stereotypes, all ofcourse, are, These loud? mention I Did loud. And ofit. proud they’re and world, the in country loudest stage. international the on underdog ofan abit being and nation asmaller as together bound more feeling is ofthat part Americans—and than so more even ways some in nationalistic—and as Iﬁbut just Canadians nd nationalism, ofAmerican fun make Canadians ours. from different very is mythology to their relationship Americans’ but similarities, are there different—obviously very very, are Canada and America that deﬁOh, question no nitely. there’s But Americans are the richest, richest, the are Americans really are. are. He’s mastered That’s gay enough,right? of hisfavorite brands. and counts Gucci asone the pajama-suit trend, casuallaunched chic, SIZZLE SCORE: SCORE: SIZZLE We’veloved himsince fame after exploded Club, The Mickey Mouse books. into the go-to guy body turned the actor his post-workout SENSE OF STYLE: STYLE: OF SENSE and hipster coloring for feminist memes

WINNER butGosling’s 13 / 15

empathy toward her most thrilling action The must-watch:The aging couple ( squirm likesquirm hedoes. Although often consideredAlthough often aserial FILMMAKERS The must-watch:The From Her subjects, whether and excavated new Villeneuve broke through in2010 He’s beencalledeverything from and own family (the docu- acclaimed directors make us they’re afictional recycler of clichés, Cameron has sci-fi in psychic in depths Cosmopolis. turned-maestro has viewers’ throats. This month,he been at the helmof OUT a visionary to French-language The must-watch:The Titanic, Aliens, One of the industry’s foremost four of history’s grabbed Oscar’s and attention female filmmakers, this actor- fetishism in fetishism epics: Cronenberg went full-blown Judgment Day when his visceral shown great DAVID CRONENBERG DAVID CANADA’S mentary DENIS Terminator 2: JAMES

Laurence Anyways SARAH POLLEY SARAH 143 XAVIER DOLAN The must-watch:The FINEST NOVEMBER Avatar, The Fly, cinema’s enfant terrible. ) or Polley’s Videodrome Incendies

Few VILLENEUVE . Stories Stories We Tell he’s poised to invade Away releases Crash

Now, with hisﬁ rst ﬁlm in English—the CAMERON while also working The must-watch:The John F. Donovan with Amy Adams, ing on the forthcom- star-studded Death and Life of explored violent . Hollywood. Stories We Tell Aliens Blade Runner 147 , sequel. Incendies

The Arrival, 2016

). The

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the the territories were banished shape, to take began Canada modern-day When crowns. respective oftheir name the in land more up gobbled imperialists European the as slightly decrease would size its year each And colonies. emerging the by unclaimed land infinite seemingly ofCanada’s swath the was Territories Northwest the as known region the ofyears, For hundreds NORTHWEST TERRITORIES EXPLORING CANADA’S OF NORTH NORTH 148 . proffering a strong aboriginal proffering a strong aboriginal the “leftovers” anymore, becould deemedhardly Inuit. ofthe lines native the distinguish to further helping Northwest, the from off splintered of Nunavut territory the when recarved again once was land the 1999, in finally, day—until to this map the across swooshes still that a line parallel— 60th the beyond The Northwest Territories an inland sea. sea. inland an as described better be could it that large so of water body Slave Lake—a of Great banks the along wilderness by overwhelmed location its town, border a faraway and nexus administrative an ofbeing duality the with hums city ofthe rhythm The total). 44,000 (around sparse astonishingly is population total the where Territories, Northwest the in of activity hive aroaring considered day), it’s agood on people (19,000 of measurement standard other any by township Asleepy paper. on like seem may it to what resemblance no bearing ofopposites, place a strange planet. the of Denesense and the truest amongspirit the indigenous The capital, Yellowknife, is is Yellowknife, capital, The north found onanywhere limited to the lodge’s more lodge’s more to the limited remarkably still are spirit its and land for the respect of conceptions our that fact to the testament humbling and stay, asurprising their during bears toward malice of thoughts any to harbor not traditions— ancestral with kindly asked—in accordance are Blachford at guests for millennia, nations Dene ofthe domain the been has paddling. and fishing with complete living, Canadian of pillar getaways—a for cottage standard gold the become has Blachford tour, royal their on Kate and Will by Visited Yellowknife. .com ( Lodge Lake Blachford Try lake. great the in isles ofgranite constellations BlachFordLakeLodge As the Great Slave Lake Slave Lake Great the As the dot Far-flung chalets ), about 65 miles from from miles 65 ), about

GEROLD SIGL/NWT TOURISM(THE DEMPSTER HIGHWAY). BRANDON PRESSER(GREAT SLAVE LAKE, NAHANNI NATIONAL PARK, AND LICENSE PLATES). SHUTTERSTOCK(INUKSUK) GEROLD SIGL/NWT TOURISM(THE DEMPSTER HIGHWAY). BRANDON PRESSER(GREAT SLAVE LAKE, NAHANNI NATIONAL PARK, AND LICENSE PLATES). SHUTTERSTOCK(INUKSUK) to the remote aboriginal aboriginal remote to the mail and goods delivering for responsible operator ( Today, 1978. Air in Simpson UNESCO by dedicated sites fiof the World Heritage rst one ofbeing honor the has it and anomalies, of geological cache its with expeditionists of imagination the captured long has reserve the Nations, Dehcho ofFirst the territories Nile. ofthe cataracts like River Nahanni South the along lie that canyons fortress-like four its covet who those by Nahanni” “the simply dubbed Park, National Nahanni in literally— peak—quite to a comes lands Dene the panels. solar and toilets composting like efforts, conventional SimpsonAir.ca Situated on the ancestral ancestral the on Situated of majesty grand The The Dempster Highway ), the same same ), the civilization that’s seen seen that’s civilization flweeklong toward back oat a epicmost paddle: Canada’s for point year, it’s starting the ofthe months warmest the During there. one only the be likely you’ll imagine—yet you can Falls—if of Niagara height the twice than more to rise which language, or Falls, Virginia is attraction Unclimbables. the of Cirque the and Range Ragged the like folio, Magellan’s in belong names whose attractions natural in taking stone, craggy and earth ofboiling amalgams over perilous high zip and canyons between deep dip fl its aboard Trips planes. oat world-in-one-expanse outfi this showcasing tter afl as doubles ight-seeing region, the in communities The park’s biggest biggest park’s The Nailicho THE NWT PLATES IN LICENSE 149 . in the Dene Dene the in to sleep under a blanket of ablanket under to sleep go pines riverine and stones sacred the suddenly and shift seasons The striking. similarly is ofwinter night perpetual the seem, may day asummer’s as unending to frost. turns dew morning the before aplomb with undertakes northerner every ofpassage arite as Nahanni National Park As pronounced and and pronounced As Great Slave Lake — magic. without aday never there’s prosaic, often is vastness nation’s the where ofNorth, North the in here you that to remind if as Shield—emerge the Canadian over halo lights—a northern the erased, but all been has landscape ofthe wonder the that you think when just But ofdarkness. acloak and ice BRANDON BRANDON PRESSER OUT inuksuk And for many, the purposeful pilesof stone—the by the Inuit andother peoples as the new symbol of Canada. borders, or places of worship, anthropomorphized, the rock or simply “I mean was here.”

Canada, and you’lllikely ﬁnd or highway rest stopacross sculptures mark trailheads, Visit any natural attraction NOVEMBER of Canada’s Often Arctic. replaced leafthe maple INUKSUK isa type of used cairn THE 150 2016 . inuksuk

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