T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Contents Page Ballymote Heritage Weekend ...... 2 A Postcard from Ballymote ...... 3 Travel and Transport in Bygone Days ...... 5 Glaisne Ó Cuilleanáin – Last Abbot of St Mary’s Cistercian Abbey, Boyle ...... 9 Bog Gazing ...... 10 Some Recorded Old Place-names of Castledargan ...... 13 Sligo NFA/IFA Golden Jubilee ...... 17 Making St. Brigid’s Crosses ...... 18 The Sacred Heart Altar in the Church of the Immaculate Conception, Ballymote ...... 20 Heelin Coos: Scotland’s Favourite Beasts ...... 22 Very Rev. T. Canon Quinn, P.P...... 23 Bellamont House, Collooney, and other 17th Century Fortified Houses in Co. Sligo ...... 24 Swinford Mercy Order 150th Anniversary ...... 27 Aghanagh Church of Ireland 150th Anniversary 1855-2005 ...... 29 Roger Chambers Walker, Sligo Antiquary ...... 31 Significance of the Brother Walfrid Monument in the 21st Century ...... 33 Perth Irish honour Ballymote man ...... 34 Planning a Church ...... 34 Ballymote Corn Mill (Gorman’s Mill) ...... 35 Sir John Benson, 1812-1874, Architect and Engineer ...... 36 Terence O’Rorke, 1819-1907 ...... 38 Ballymote Public Houses, from 1910 to the Present ...... 40 An Aughris-type Enclosure on Knocklane, Co. Sligo ...... 41 Napoleonic Towers in Co. Sligo ...... 43 Extracts from Freeman’s Journal ...... 46 Henry Morris ...... 46 Milk Harbour and its vicinity ...... 47 Mountains ...... 50 Joe More, The Landlord of Doocastle ...... 51 The Irish Folklore Commission Schools Collection ...... 53 Rural Days Gone By – Pictures from a Vanished Ireland ...... 54 Had Me Made : A Study of the Grave Memorials of Co. Sligo from c. 1650 to the Present ...... 55 Ballymote Sports in 1905 ...... 56 Sporting History: Bunninadden Emmets 1991 ...... 57 Ballymote Heritage Group 20th AGM ...... 57 The Arigna Mining Experience ...... 58 Sri Lanka after the Waves ...... 61 Patrick McDonagh ...... 63 Tom Shiels 1908 – 1963 ...... 64 Sligo v Mayo Boxing 1964 ...... 65 My Schooldays in the 1960s ...... 67 Townlands ...... 68 John M Keaney ...... 69 The Fair Day in Farnaharpy ...... 70 Forty Years on in Collooney ...... 71 Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery ...... 72 Presentation to Eileen Tighe ...... 74 Sligo winners in the 51st Texaco Children’s Art Competition ...... 75 Scouts ...... 76

1 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Ballymote 16 TH ANNUAL Heritage Weekend FRIDAY 29th JULY to MONDAY 1st AUGUST 2005 IN PASTORAL CENTRE, BALLYMOTE, CO.SLIGO

FRIDAY 29th JULY 8.30 p.m. OFFICIAL OPENING Desmond Fitzgerald, Knight of Glin, Author & Historian LECTURE: The Architecture of Irish Gardens from the Restoration to the Romantic Age – DESMOND FITZGERALD SATURDAY 30th JULY 10.30a.m. OUTING: Charlestown and Swinford areas. To include Michael Davitt Centre, Straide Abbey, Swinford Workhouse and mass grave,rave, and other sites. – GUIDE: MICHAEL MURPHY, HISTORIAN 8.30 p.m. LECTURE: An introduction to Ireland’s Industrial Archaeology. PAUL DUFFY BE, LLB, CENG, FIEI SUNDAY 31st JULY 2.00p.m. OUTING: Tulsk Heritage Centre and adjacent sites; Rathcroghan 8.30p.m. LECTURE: Mullaghfarna, Ireland’s Largest Stone Age Village! DR. STEFAN BERGH, LECTURER, DEPT OF ARCHAEOLOGY, NUI GALWAY.

MONDAY 1st AUGUST

10.00 a.m. OUTING: Tuam - Ecclesiastical Capital of Connacht. GUIDE: TONY CLAFFEY MA, PHD

8.30 p.m. LECTURE: From Ireland to Antarctica – 100 years of Shackletons visiting Antarctica. Jonathan Shackleton, Lecturer and Family Historian for the Irish Shackletons.

LECTURES: €6.00 TRANSPORT AVAILABLE FOR OUTINGS

2 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 A Postcard from Ballymote

Aidan Mannion OCTOBER 1st is a very special day in the history of postcards, with the first postcards in the world being produced in Austria on that date in 1869. Exactly one year later, on October 1st 1870, the first postcards were issued by the UK Post Office for England and Ireland. These had stamps pre-printed on them for one half penny, half the letter rate. I illustrate this period with a card sent from the Hibernian Bank, Ballymote, to Stratford-on-Avon, dated 13/9/1876 (first card shown). You will note how business was fast to see the uses of the postcard. A picture was first allowed on cards in 1894. This development can be traced back to the illustrated envelopes of an Irishman, Mulready, in the 1840s. Initially cards were only allowed to have a name and address on one side and the photo on the other (no space for a message). In 1902 the address side of the card was divided in two with a space for a message and another for the address. This format has stayed with us now for over one hundred years. The price and speed of the postcard in the first twenty years of the 20th century led to this period being called "the golden age of postcard collecting". Albums were sold and into these were put cards from family members travelling around the world. In my collection I have two large albums created by a Sligo mother from two wallpaper sample books. She methodically put into these albums the cards sent by her British Army son from all over the world. They varied from cards that were ration tokens during the Boer War to hundreds from field post offices in the First World War. These latter cards were pre-printed Showing both sides of a banking postcard with prepaid stamp, the and because of censorship he could only tick one of earliest form of postcard in Ireland. It was posted on Sep 13th, four greetings and sign his name. 1876 With the great demand for cards, many materials were used in their production: wood, turf, leather, metal and embroidered silk. Many types were produced: topographical, portrait, mechanical, hold to light, shaped, panoramic, political, humourous, and advertising (sixth card, next page), to name a few. Colour was introduced to postcards by hand- colouring as colour printing had not yet been perfected. Most of the early cards were printed in Germany, having been commissioned by local shops or businesses. Today, your polling card, or an ESB notice that your power will be off on a certain day, are forms of postcards. Unfortunately the special postal rate finished on April 4th 1998.

Dedication: I would like to remember Misses Gladys and Mabel West of the Strandhill Road, Sligo, who loved stamp collecting and in fact produced their own first day covers and postcards from Sligo. Postcard showing Earlsfield House, sent from Ballymote on July • Aidan Mannion is President of Sligo Field Club. 7th 1906 to a lady on Ratcliff Street, Sligo, "for her collection" 3 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

An embossed colour card sent from Ballymote to Dublin on July 14th 1907

Beautiful coloured postcards showing Main Street and Lord Edward Street, Ballymote. Published by Acme, there should be A colour card of Ballymote Castle, published by Marcus Ward six different cards in this series. About 1910. These two of Belfast. Posted Sep 17th 1907 particular cards were never used

Postcard showing an interior view of the Church of Ireland, One of two cards I have advertising Flannery’s Hotel in Ballymote. Note the oil lighting. This was posted on Christmas Ballymote Eve morning,1907, to Ballinamallard, Co Fermanagh

Postcard showing the back of a coloured greeting card. Note This is a novelty card. The picture of the owl opens forward the half penny English stamp, cancelled by a very clear rubber and a "concertina" of twelve views of Ballymote appears Ballymote mark, and "Printed in Germany" behind 4 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Travel and Transport in Bygone Days

PJ Duffy

IN OLDEN TIMES the majority of trying to frighten his animal. He lighter sprung vehicles were being younger people residing in this part of would go so far as to complain to the designed and constructed for the country went from place to place teacher about it. Although most of the conveying people from place to on foot, sometimes travelling long children would obediently submit to place. Titles were duly allotted to distances. But apart from those who the discipline imposed, there were the each special cab-design. emigrated or moved out to take up few unruly rascals who thought it all The sidecar, better known as the employment elsewhere, the greater great fun and would continue to "jaunting car", was a vehicle drawn number of those who stayed never annoy the old man by throwing pieces by one horse that became hugely travelled very far outside their own of newspaper on the road as he passed popular with members of the public. particular area. by. It had a slender, hollow, rectangular On reaching old age, many of these Back in the 1700s and early 1800s box that stretched from front to back people if forced to travel a journey remote areas of our country were very right down the centre of its chassis. would do so on the back of a donkey, much underdeveloped where public This was known as the well. jennet or mule. As recently as the roads were concerned. In the absence Cushioned seats were arranged each 1940s there was a number of old men of proper thoroughfares people were side of this crest, each seat having a still using this mode of conveyance to forced to use old pathways and leg compartment fitted with a get to their respective destinations. boreens to get from their homes to the footboard and an iron step for Moving a little further back in time, local village. mounting or dismounting from the stories have been told of old ladies Since most of these old vehicle. travelling this way as well. passageways were totally unsuited for The tub-trap, also drawn by a Men usually placed an old sack on the use of a two wheeled vehicle like single animal, was oval in shape. Its the donkey’s back to sit on, but ladies a cart, people usually conveyed goods body was somewhat rounded with its used a straw mat specially made so from one place to another by means projection being slightly longer than that they could sit sideways while of donkeys and creels or pordógs. The broad. Cushioned seats were arranged travelling. little donkey was a versatile animal on each side of its inner part. A In the early 1940s there was one well suited to travelling along the narrow hinged door opened out at the old man in particular who used to narrow tracks that stretched across back to admit passengers who used an pass by the school at lunchtime every the countryside. iron step placed just above ground Friday riding on a white donkey, en Meanwhile, as those unfortunate level. route to the Post Office to draw his people were getting on with their The gig was yet another single- old-age pension. He would tether his wretched lives, the gentry and better animal vehicle. It had two large donkey by the roadside and then off sections of the community would wheels and its chassis was shorter in move on to collect his weekly travel on horseback. Unlike the poor design than the other vehicles. Four allowance. On the animal’s back was man on the donkey, the horseman was adult passengers usually sat back to placed an old guano bag, probably likely to have the advantage of a good back on cushions placed each side of well washed and free from any comfortable leather saddle to sit on, a single padded back-board which chemical, but with the brand and a pair of iron stirrups to rest his could be adjusted to give the vehicle Goulding’s Fertiliser clearly visible feet on. better balance. Iron steps were fitted on its surface. Ironically because of relief at the front and rear. Although he seemed to be getting schemes initiated during the 1840s It has been said that the gig was on in years, this donkey always famine period, the condition of the designed for giving greater speed, appeared to be jittery and nervous road network started to improve. As a and people who owned them were when passing by where the school result, more and more people using always on the lookout for a good children usually assembled. Any horse-drawn transport could get by. swift steed to give vent to the purpose flicker of a garment, or any piece of And again, this mostly benefited the for which they were intended. There paper blowing across the road on a better off who had this type of was also a gig that seated just two windy day, would cause the donkey to transport. The dray-cart became the people. swiftly turn around and move in the mobile vehicle by which most While the better off sections of the opposite direction from the one agricultural goods were transported community continued to make intended. This would annoy the old overland to fairs, markets, mills and progress, the little fellow with the man greatly and he would give out to other processing plants. donkey was also endeavouring to the children for their behaviour in During this period also improved improve his lot. Despite his meagre 5 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 income, he too was visiting his of freelance service across local be known as "Jack the quack". carpenter and harness-maker so that areas. The coming of the railway in 1862 he might have his animal fitted out Accounts handed down from a was to spell the beginning of the end with the equipment necessary for previous generation inform us that an for Bianconi’s transport system. doing business on the country’s old stage-post once existed at Instead of waiting long periods for highways. The donkey box-cart and Rathmullen, where mail was sorted horses to arrive, mail could now be tiny tub trap became extremely and despatched to the Gurteen and delivered swiftly by rail. And people popular with country people and Mullaghroe areas. Passengers setting travelling between Sligo, Boyle and continued to remain so well into the out on scheduled routes also stopped Dublin would go by train. twentieth century. by to undergo journeys in this Although the larger coaches In the early years of the nineteenth direction. Names of carmen who gradually became redundant, smaller century an Italian immigrant to our operated on this route for a time were post-chaise vehicles drawn by two country founded a transport system Guthrie and Woodland. horses continued to operate a service which was to operate successfully Another old post was said to have linking smaller towns. So too did throughout the length and breadth of existed at Roadstown on a stretch of private carmen with one-horse the land. His name was Charles road about midway between vehicles; a good part of their time Bianconi, a name that became Ballymote and Tubbercurry. Mail was now was taken up driving their clients synonymous with public transport also sorted here and despatched to the to and from the railway station. and remains so even to the present Bunninadden and Achonry areas. As we moved into the twentieth day. Names of carmen here were Greer century we also arrived at the dawn of Bianconi’s stage-coaches travelled and Bowman. This was in the days of a new era: the age of the motorcar and from Dublin to Sligo town, their the old black penny stamp. motorised transport had begun. handlers checking in at several points In Killavil there were local carmen Petrol-powered engines took over and along the route for a change of horses who provided a transport service in did the jobs that horses had been and for refreshments for the people their own area. One was Michael doing up till then. aboard. A return coach would some Scully who was well known for This was also the time when pedal time later set off from Sligo to taking clergymen about on their bicycles started to appear on public Dublin, travelling towards Boyle and spiritual duties, and at times taking roads in increasing numbers. checking in at Castlebaldwin where them further afield to meet with It was well into the second decade there was a stage post. The Dublin – senior members of the hierarchy. His of the century before motorcars made Sligo journey was said to have taken long-time dedication and loyalty to their appearance in any significant around fifteen hours each way. the "men of the cloth" was to earn numbers, and, as had happened People from the Ballymote area him the nickname "Mick the priest". before, only the better off members of availing of the service would make There was Jack Brennan of the community could afford to buy contact with the coach at Drumfin. To Phaleesh who was a noted horseman them. this day that particular stretch of and jarvey. Not only could he train The coming of the motorcar was roadway is often referred to as "the and handle horses, but he could cure set to dispense with the need for Mail-Coach Road". most of their ailments as well. He was many horse-drawn vehicles, Because of an old rhyme that was the man called out to give assistance especially in built-up areas. It also circulating in the area at that time, the to a mare having difficulty in giving seriously affected those people whose memory of one coach-driver survives birth to a foal. He could correct livelihood depended mainly on the here in folk memory: spavins and cure sprains prevalent in older form of transport. horses’ legs. He became so active in Craftsmen like Murrays who Shivnan from out Keadue this field that eventually he came to operated an extensive coach-building Was a horseman of renown; He drove a stately mail-coach From Boyle to Sligo town. The coach operating along this route was a spacious well-designed vehicle carrying around twelve passengers as well as transporting a consignment of mail in a compartment located above its rooftop. Bianconi also had a number of smaller vehicles called post-chaise cabs operating between outlying towns and villages. In addition to this there were a number of people with vehicles of their own operating a sort

6 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 business at Newtown (now Wolfe was intended as a pleasure trip turned put in place. This in turn resulted in Tone St), Ballymote, harness-makers, into one of torture". partial stagnation taking place in the blacksmiths, stable boys, horse- With the coming of tarmacadamed entire transport system. Many old trainers – all these now found roads more and more motorcars made horse-drawn vehicles were revamped themselves more or less out on a their appearance. There were Model and restored and put back on the road limb. Horse-dealers and breeders T’s, also known as "Tin Lizzies", and again. became sidelined to a great extent as Morris and Austen 10s – today’s When the war ended and supplies the larger vehicles ground to a halt. vintage models now viewed with began to flow freely again, more and Famous names from the horse- amazement when seen on display at more taximen were to be seen plying dealing days still linger on here in annual heritage venues. their trade. In Ballymote familiar folk memory: Calder-Banks, Vickey, In the late 1920s and early 30s names like Perry, Murtagh, Kielty, Malone, d’Arcy, Spellman. People more people started to use motorised Hunt, Hannon, Begley, and later on from a previous generation used to transport as a means of getting around Doddy, established a transport say that these gentlemen were all comfortably and efficiently, network that by and large continues "great judges of horse-flesh". especially on longer journeys. It was to the present day. From some old records we learn invaluable during times of that the stagecoach system had its bereavement when grieving relatives In 1954 Paddy Lavin of Killavil share of problems. The country’s could tuck themselves in comfortably bought a new Hillman Minx at a cost roads in those days had rough at funeral time, especially in of £550 and immediately went into surfaces that were often pitted with inclement weather. the taxi business, establishing his potholes and had stretches that were In Ballymote, Tom Scully of main base of activity in Ballymote. It deeply rutted. Horses could turn out O’Connell Street had just taken over was a brave adventure for a young to be troublesome. Coaches could his father’s horse-drawn transport and fellow in his early twenties, but this overturn resulting in serious injury or undertaking business. He bought a was a time when things were even death to the travellers. new motorcar for hire but soon beginning to pick up after the Passenger complaints were discovered he needed two or three to depressing war years. The tourist common, as we learn from a keep ahead of customers’ demands. trade was just starting to expand and, statement from one lady traveller. He then purchased a motor hearse for besides, most people living in country According to her account there were his undertaking business. areas did not as yet own cars and so nine passengers travelling on this A number of young men particular occasion. Sitting alongside trained and acquired the her was a housewife with three young skills enabling them to children who were suffering from become motorcar drivers. severe head colds and were Many of them later became continuously sniffling and coughing. chauffeurs replacing the On a seat opposite was a stout jarvies who by this time were middle-aged man who seemed to be becoming redundant. Some having ongoing problems with became well known for their flatulence. Seated on her left was an courteous and friendly amorous well-intoxicated gentleman manner when dealing with who kept on making unwanted members of the public. advances, on one occasion groping Brian Murtagh, who came her with his hand “above the garter”. from the Carrigans area and The air within the carriage became was employed at Scully’s, increasingly stifling yet the woman endeared himself to many with the three children forbade people especially during anybody to open a window. times of bereavement. He According to her complaint, "what had a wonderful method for comforting and consoling the next of kin when he arrived First Cars in at houses to organise and carry out funeral Ballymote arrangements, and again as According to information supplied he drove them to and from by Jim Kielty, O’Connell St, funerals. Ballymote, the first three cars in The outbreak of World Ballymote at the start of the last War II in 1939 brought about century belonged to (1) Dr Pat O’Harte, (2) Frank McDonagh, severe curtailment in petrol supplies, resulting in O’Connell St, and (3) James Paddy Lavin standing alongside his second Kielty, O’Connell St (1916). rationing regulations being Hillman taxi, late 1950s.

7 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 were dependant on men like him to animal’s back using two old sacks upon old vintage cars with a good take them on essential journeys. It tied at their mouths with a piece of deal of nostalgia, knowing that in my was the sort of environment where rope. This attachment was called an young days their proud owners were the young taximan found himself "ireas" driving them around on our country’s getting plenty to do with his new cab. Many householders carried their roads. In the years that followed he and provisions with haversacks placed on In the 1920s a young Killavil man his taxi became a familiar link in the their backs. named Mark Cunningham became local transport system. Almost daily Journey-salesmen using the route the proud owner of a Ford Model T. he could be seen collecting and taking usually carried their wares in There were few cars around then, so clients to and from the country’s rucksacks. They used to be referred as when he passed by on the roadway airports, chief towns and cities. pedlars and their luggage was a people by their firesides would Tourists visiting the country and "pedlar’s pack". Tinsmiths toing and remark "there goes Markeen and his looking out for who was reliable and froing along the passageway would Tin Lizzie". There was also a rhyme punctual would be apt to enquire for each carry around his tin and his in circulation then: "taximan Lavin". working instruments in a wooden Henry Ford he made a wee car Totally cut out for his job, he was a toolkit on his back. This was called a Out of rubber, metal and twine. brilliant conversationalist with a vast "tinker’s budget". It had no silencer, none at all, knowledge of the countryside. At all This was the usual way of life for It roared out like a lion. time he kept his taxi spotlessly clean. many people in remote areas at that Curious onlookers observing his zest time. Many did not have a proper Just a few years before this time, local for cleanliness and good taste would roadway leading to their home. poet Martin Brennan penned these often refer to him as "the shiner". Mules and jennets were also used lines after stopping to look back at the Paddy Lavin passed away in to convey goods. These animals were volume of progress that had taken December 1999. Overseas visitors often more difficult to handle than place in his country during the returning here in the years that donkeys and some could be cross and previous half-century: followed received the news of his easily agitated. Today they are in death with disbelief. Many of them danger: nobody seems to breed them If fifty years has brought such could not come to terms with the anymore. Even back in those days change reality that their favourite taximan there was a belief among country One cannot imagine how was no longer available to take them people that it was unlucky to breed The world wide will wag at all around. them. Many young people of today Fifty years from now. Much of the information contained have probably never seen one or even in the opening pages of this article heard of their existence. was given to me by my late father Many changes have taken place NOTE: A jennet was the offspring of Michael Duffy who died in 1979 at during my own lifetime. In the late a male pony and a female donkey. A the age of 93. His grandmother 1930s I had my first jaunt in an old mule on the other hand was the Bridget McDermott, nee Coen, Baby Ford owned by our local priest, product of a female pony and a male remembered the days of Bianconi’s Fr Carney C.C. Nowadays I look donkey. coaches. She also had vivid memories of times when an endless trickle of backpackers used to pass by on an old passageway called "the boheen" that was situated close-by to her home. This old pathway was one of two that linked the Killavil road to Spurtown. People travelling along this route had to cross the local river at a shallow ford where stepping- stones were laid down and this place was called the Clochán. People using a quiet wee donkey to convey their goods used to be called "cuddy-backpackers". While many used wickerwork creels to carry their goods, others slung their belongings across the The Very First Model T. –Supplied by PJ Duffy 8 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Glaisne Ó Cuilleanáin – Last Abbot of St Mary’s Cistercian Abbey, Boyle

Frank Tivnan

GLAISNE Ó CUILLEANÁIN was promised "the sun, moon and stars" if Glaisne held his rosary beads in his born in 1554 at Mullach na Sí, they would abandon their Catholic hands during his last moments alive. Ballyshannon, Co Donegal. The Ó faith. Glaisne’s answer was "the This beautiful amber rosary beads is Cuilleanáins came originally from the benefices you offer me are very now preserved in the Cistercian province of Munster and Cormac valuable in truth, but how long will Monastery of St Joseph, Roscrea, Co Mac Cuilleanáin, the bishop-king of you allow me to enjoy them?" "As Tipperary. It came from the Cashel, featured among their long as you live" they answered, "we Dominican Abbey of Our Lady of ancestors. cannot determine the end of your life Atocha, Madrid. Glaisne’s father, Donnchadh Ó or prolong it, nor do we know the day The work for the beatification of Cuilleanáin, was a great friend of the of your death". "Well then", he the Irish martyrs – Group 2 is now O’Donnell chiefs of Donegal. replied, "is it not much wiser for me complete. Included among them is Donnchadh married Iníon Dhubh Ní to obey Him and to keep His law, who Gelasius (Glaisne) Ó Cuilleanáin. All Dhuibhir. They had seven children, can, if He pleases, prolong my life that now remains is for Pope Benedict six sons and one daughter, Glaisne and give me a life of eternal XVI to sign the decree of martyrdom. being the eldest. Five of his brothers happiness in the world to come, than If you wish, you may pray for his became priests, four of them to obey you who cannot lengthen my beatification: "Almighty God and Cistercians. life by one instant and who are Father, may your servant Glaisne who Glaisne received his early striving by your deceitful and suffered torture and death for your education from perhaps the monks of perishable gifts to lead me away from sake and now reigns with You in the nearby Assarore Cistercian the laws of heaven?" glory, obtain for us perseverance is Abbey. Later he studied at the famous The interrogators were furious at doing your will. Grant that his name university of Leuven in Belgium, and this answer and ordered his fingers, may be soon enrolled with those of later still at the Sorbonne, the Paris arms and legs to be crushed by blows your saints in heaven. We ask this university founded by Robert de of a hammer. When they could not through Christ our risen Lord". Sorbon in 1253. Here he obtained a break his courage, they ordered him doctorate. and Eoin Ó Maolchiaráin to be I wish to acknowledge with gratitude Soon after he entered the hanged. The Abbot asked the the help given me by Dom Ciarán Ó Cistercian Order. Owing to his executioners that Eoin should suffer Sabhais and Dom Flannan Hogan of erudition, virtue and courage he was death first, as he showed some fear Mount St Joseph’s, Roscrea, in the appointed Abbot of St Mary’s and wept. The request was granted. preparation of this article. Cistercian Abbey in Boyle, Co Glaisne was then put to death and Roscommon. At that time Robert suffered fearlessly and courageously. Cusack of Gerrardstown, Co Meath, On his way up to the scaffold, about had taken possession of the five hundred were converted to the Change of monastery and its lands. However, Catholic faith by the sight of his after a few gentle reprimands given constancy. Lecture by the new Abbot, Cusack allowed The execution of these two men the monks to use the Abbey again. took place on November 21st, 1584, AT THE 2004 Heritage Weekend, In 1580 Glaisne went on a short in St Stephen’s Green, Dublin. The the 20th Anniversary Lecture was visit to Dublin. Here he was arrested Spanish historiographer of the not, as advertised, on the by order of the government and, Cistercian Order, Juan Henriquez, in archaeological excavations at together with Eoin Ó Maolchiaráin, his Menologium Cisterciense, Drumcliffe Monastic Site. Instead Abbot of the Premonstratensian describes Glaisne as "Ordinis it was entitled "Banada, Skreen monastery of the Holy Trinity in Loch Cisterciencis decor, saeculi nostri Cé, imprisoned in the public gaol. splendor, totius Hiberniae Gloria" and Carrowmore: the Legacies of In gaol they were carefully (the ornament of the Cistercian Order, Irwin, Diamond and Walker" and interrogated by Dean John Garvey of the light of our century, the glory of was given by Martin A Timoney Christchurch and his team. They were all Ireland). and Mary B Timoney.

9 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Bog Gazing with Marie Finlay

The world is too much with us, respective home countries. In brownish/black in colour, with late and soon Holland, for example, bogs have long approximately 95% water content. Getting and spending we lay since disappeared, and the Dutch are Wet climate and poor drainage waste our powers now turning to Ireland to invest in systems promote the growth and Little we see in nature that is ours bog conservation. development of bogs. We have given our hearts away, a In Scotland vast amounts of trees 12,000 years ago Ireland was sordid boon. are to be felled in a project to restore covered by ice. Climatic conditions (W. Wordsworth) their peat boglands. Ireland is among became warmer at the 10,000 year the last countries in Europe where a stage and the ice began to melt. Peat The poet, Patrick Kavanagh wrote: sizeable amount of peat lands still commenced its formation around this exist in their natural state. time. Beautiful, beautiful God, An enquiry by a Chilean visitor to Peat forms in layers, the pale upper Breathing His love in a cutaway Ireland:- What is a bog? followed by layers consist of remains of plants, bog. What is peat? is it animal, vegetable, herbs and mosses that died and rotted Kavanagh was evidently inspired by mineral? prompted my quest to seek in the shallow acid water. All were and sensitively attuned to the bogs. fuller knowledge on this topic. This compressed by the weight of water search drew me into a fascinating and and other plants to form peat. IN THE PAST bogs were largely most rewarding discovery of the Peatlands once covered about 17% of associated with a lifestyle of hardship unique habitat we call bog lands. the surface of Ireland. and poverty. In the decades before the Hours of reading, watching videos There are two main types of bogs famine, population growth in Ireland and participating in a weekend in Ireland:- blanket bogs and raised gave rise to increased demand for educational course run by the Irish bogs. land. Many families were forced by Peatland Conservation Council High rainfall is essential for the necessity to eke out an existence on brought me to a new appreciation of formation of each. Raised Bogs mountains and boglands. This our bogland resources. require 800- 900 mm of rainfall per enforced way of life led to them being year, compared to the blanket bog labelled 'bogtrotters', a slang and WHAT IS BOG? requirement of 1200 mm during more derogatory term. They were An answer to the Chilean query is than 250 days per annum. portrayed as comic, burlesque figures a good place to start: a bog is an area Blanket Bogs as the name suggests by some observers. The resilience of land that is covered by peat or turf. are spread over large areas of land. which they displayed in the face of Peat is a soil made up of the dead These subdivide into mountain the harsh reality of their existence remains of plants that have amassed blanket bog usually above the 200 held little significance for their over thousands of years. It is metre level, and lower lying blanket detractors. Since the 1900s a gradual change in people's attitude towards wilderness areas is occurring. Now it is becoming fashionable to visit bog lands as a leisure activity. As the wag says … some of us have seen both days. Many factors have contributed to bring about this change; these include a growing disenchantment with overcrowding and rising crime levels in our towns and cities, more affluence and resulting leisure time, availability of books on nature and wildlife films on television. An appreciation of our natural heritage by overseas visitors to Ireland has a very significant impact on the way we view our landscape. They now know the value of the treasure they have lost in their Matchstick Lichen 10 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 bog under the 200 metre contour line. Coiteann), Bilberry (Vaccinium and waiting to scoop up insects and Blanket bogs occur, but not Myrtillus) which grows in abundance frogs in bog pools. exclusively, in the western counties in boglands, ripening in late July and The song of the Skylark is of Ireland. its gathering being celebrated on the commonly heard in the bogs during Raised Bogs form in lakes unlike last Sunday in July (called Bilberry the summertime. the blanket bogs which form on land. Sunday), Cranberry (Mónóg), Bog Animals likely to be encountered They occur in midland counties. Cotton (Ceannbhán), with single- in the bogs are the Hare (Giora), the Sphagnum moss is a crucial headed and many-headed varieties, Fox (Sionnach) and the less visible ingredient in their formation. and Bog Bean (Bachran) - this is Otter (Madra Uisce). The Hare Sphagnum soaks up water as it grows found in bog pools, it looks like an grazes on bog plants. The Fox hunts and holds 16-20 times its own dry outsized shamrock, and has pink and for beetles and frogs or whatever he weight in water content. There are white feathery flowers which bloom can lay his paws on. The Otter, more more than 350 species of sphagnum in summer. commonly known as the Water Dog, moss world wide and up to 40 Another delightful plant is the Bog feeds on eels, frogs and fish. different species recognised in Asphodel (Sciollam na Móna) which Bugs and Insects common to bog Europe. It is soft and spongy and has has delicate yellow star-shaped pools are the Whirligig Beetle no true roots but draws water through flowers. Cladonia Lichen (Leicean) (Táilliuir) which devours tiny insects its stems and leaves. The ground is a very attractive matchstick lichen on the surface of the water, the Water colours of the moss form a delightful which grows in clusters on the bare Boatman (Bádóir) - interesting to see tapestry: yellow, green, brown and a soil. it swim on its back under water, the rich red depending on the exposure Great Diving Beetle (Tumadóir Mór) and acidity of the water. BIRDS, ANIMALS, INSECTS - one of the largest insect predators in Bogland surfaces consist of Some interesting birds which feed bog pools, the Pond Skater (Scinnire hummocks and hollows and channels in bog lands include the Curlew Locháin) - fascinating to observe as which require skill and caution in (Crotach) whose plaintive cry is quite they hastily skim the surface of the navigating on foot. The advantage of distinctive, the Snipe (Naoscach) bog pools, and the Dragon Fly this uneven ground is that it slows whose long bill enables it to find (Snáthaid mhór) - a delight to watch. down the walkers and focuses their worms and insects, and the Heron Butterflies and Moths also feed attention on the sheer magic of the (Corr Éisc), a very tall wading bird on bog plants. The best way to bogs. Colourful flowers, mosses, wild with long legs and long neck, gazing distinguish the moth from the birds, mammals and insects all clamour for attention.

BOG PLANTS Insectivorous plants include the Sundew, Butterwort and Bladderwort, all of which trap insects to get vital nutrients for survival. The Sundew (Druchtín Móna) is a very small plant with spoon shaped leaves that are covered with tiny hairs. Each hair has a drop of sticky liquid. The sun sparkles on the drop and attracts insects which land on its leaves and are trapped. The Butterwort (Bodán Meascáin) with its sticky leaves traps insects in much the same way as the Sundew does. Its leaves are yellow-green and its flower is purple. The Bladderwort (Lus an Bhotraigh Beag) has leaves which bear tiny bladders that trap small water animals. Its leaves are root-like and under water. Its flowers are small and yellow in colour. Other bogland plants include Cross-leaved Heath (Fraoch Naoscai) with its pink bell-shaped flowers, Ling Heather (Fraoch Heron

11 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 butterfly is by their antennae. White Waterlilly (Nymphae Alba): It is written that in Lapland Butterfly antennae are always club its dried roots are used in heart tonics matrons are well acquainted with this shaped, the moth's never. The moth's and can stimulate liver and spleen moss. They dry it and lay it in their antennae may be feathery, and functions. children's cradles to supply the place pointed or blunted at the ends but Meadowsweet can be effective as of mattress, bolster and every never club shaped. an infusion to treat colds, influenza covering, and being changed night and headache. and morning, it keeps the infant BOG PLANTS AS HERBAL The Great Reed Mace Cat’s Tail remarkably clean, dry and warm. REMEDIES (Typha Latifolia): its young roots Sphagnum Moss was also used (ideally collected in early spring) Like the insects being sucked in by boiled in salted water and quickly during the war in conjunction with the insectivore plants, I too got fried in olive oil are very tasty indeed. Garlic (an antiseptic of high repute) caught up in the medical properties of (N.B. It is inadvisable to use folk thus saving thousands of lives. Some some bog plants. remedies without expert people hold the view that peat The Sundew (Drosera supervision!!!!!!!!) contains biostimulators that could rotundifolia). This plant can be used Spliognum Moss (Sphagnum cure diseases that currently seem to advantage in the treatment of Cymbifolium) forms in bogs in incurable. bronchitis, persistent coughs, clumps, vivid green in colour. With Many other aspects of bog lands whooping cough and asthma etc. Its its property of being highly include structures of archaeological juice is reputed to take away corns absorbent, it was used as a surgical interest discovered under the peat and and warts. In America it has been dressing of wounds during wars. It artefacts including objects of gold favoured as a cure for old age and was used in Germany for thirty years. used for cases of arteriosclerosis and bronze, jewellery, weapons and A Gaelic record of 1014 states that human remains in a good state of (hardening of the arteries). the wounded in the battle of Clontarf preservation. Poets, painters, writers, The Bog-Bean (Menyanthes ‘stuffed their wounds with moss’. trifoliata) is reputed to be valuable as Stricken deer are known to drag their sculptors and many others continue to a remedy against the dreaded sailor wounded bodies to beds of Sphagnum be inspired by bog landscape. disease - scurvy. It is considered Moss. A two ounce dressing of As a lady remarked to me after a useful in treating rheumatism and prepared sterilized moss absorbs up trip to the bog "there's more to the skin diseases. In powder form its to two pounds of moisture, more than bog than cutting the turf". What a leaves act as a purgative. twice as much as cotton wool. lovely succinct understatement!

A harvest of turf 12 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Some Recorded Old Place-names of Castledargan

Pat O’Brien

CASTLEDARGAN is the central returning north through Breifne. A (Tullybeg) and Cashelloghdergan. townland of three that form the century later in 1516, O’Donnell Four Elizabethan pardons between northern boundary of the old civil destroyed Sligo castle, laid waste to 1587 and 1590 were for inhabitants of parish of Kilross in the barony of Tirerrill and took Caiseal Locha Castle(Cashel)loghdargan. In Tirerrill, Co. Sligo and is situated to Deargain among others, placing February 1607, Margareta ny the northeast of Ballygawley garrisons, taking prisoners. Donoghe alias Heallye of crossroads. It contains 978.1 acres, Cashelloghdergan has been Carrowekyll, Co. Sligo, and her the largest townland in that parish, variously spelt, but most variations brothers granted to William Taaffe, claiming 25% of the old civil parish have the three element of caiseal, knight, ‘all the castle, town and lands lands. It stretches southwards 2.8 km loch and Deargán, giving us the of Castleloghdargane’. The name from the crest of Sliabh Daeane to Cashel of (the) Lake of Deargán. It is continued in use into the 1630s when just south of the Collooney to claimed that a cashel, or stone-built the Strafford Survey of Sligo recorded Dromahaire road and is ringfort, existed on the site prior to that the neighboring townland of approximately 1km in width at its the castle’s construction. Arnasbrack ‘claims the ould castle widest. At the final sale of Ormsby As part of the process of surrender called Castleloghdargan’. In several lands in 1883, it was described as and re-grant in 1585, the post-Cromwellian grants the name having 669.4 acres of mountain Compossicion Book of Conought would seem to have been associated giving ‘very fair grazing in the records that one of the divisions of with the castle rather than the summer months’ and 227 acres of the the MacDonoghs of Tirerrill was that townland, while the lands were called remainder being ‘good arable’ on of Domhnall Cam of Tullamoyle by alternative names. In the Down drumlin hills. Lough Dargan, close to its southeast end, feeds a stream flowing westwards through its lowest lands. Having been tilled and grazed for generations, 165 acres of that arable land is now being developed as a golf and country club. In common with many other parts of the country, the place-name inventory of Castledargan has been practically emptied. Of its many place-names, two survive officially on O.S. maps; the townland name itself and Cloghbrack. Some place- names survive in conversation with ever-diminishing frequency and some older recorded names have been unearthed, which this essay will try to place geographically (see map) and explain their derivation. Possibly, in a bid to impose his influence on his MacDonogh nephews, Conor MacDonogh of Collooney built a tower house and bawn at Cashelloghdergan in 1422, destroyed their crops and banished them. The Four Masters tell us, that having sought the help of O’Neills and O’Donnells, the nephews and their allies laid waste to Carbury, Corran and Tirerrill and rested at Cashelloghdergan, the allies 13 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

Survey of 1659, Thomas Crofton is form of Dromaskelly, would suggest north side of the Mountainfoot Road recorded as the titulado of Kilross Droim na Scoile, the ridge of the were locally known as ‘the parish, residing at Castlelochdergan school; in 16-17th century sources Cloghabrackas’. and according to the Patent Rolls of ‘oi’ is commonly rendered ‘e’, as in The name suggests Cloch Bhreac Charles II, the castle of Kell for Coill. There may well have or Clocha Breaca, the speckled Castleloughdargan had been lately been some type of school – either stone(s). In the singular, Cloch sold by William, Earl of Strafford and bardic or a more humble one – on the Bhreac could also denote a speckled Thomas Radcliffe to Richard Coote, site in the 16th century for which no stone structure, especially a castle. Baron of Collooney. Among those record has survived. The name calls to mind the cursing attainted by the Parliament of James Cloghbrack is now a place-name stones, clocha breaca, of Inishmurray II in 1689 was Stephen Ormsby ‘of only in the west of Castledargan. or those of nearby Ballysumaghan. Castleloughdargan’. Its latest use was When first recorded as ‘Cloragh’ in Did a similar power reside in this that of the 1770s when Charles the Strafford Survey, if indeed it is the place of the clocha breaca? O’Hara of Nymphsfield same name, it had ‘some good arrable Cloghbrack, as described in the (Annaghmore) listed the townland of land & very good land for sheepe, … Strafford Survey, incorporated ‘Castleloghdurgan’ in his Survey of some litle shrubs for shelter, good Killeenduff, Cillín Dubh, the black the economic development of County turffe, great scope of mounteyne, … little church, about which we have no Sligo. parts of the aforesaid Logh’ (Lough known church history and is also not The earliest record found of the Dargan). The survey also tells us that much more than 0.5km from the early form, Castledargan, is that of the within Cloghbrack there were two Christian site of Killerin in will of Stephen Ormsby of sub-denominations, Tourehowen and Ballydawley with its Cloch an Castledargan in 1702. Subsequently a Towerany (see below). The Easpaig (the bishop’s stone) and the deed of 20 June 1713 records that descriptions of all three imply that the ‘healing stone’ that rests upon it Sarah Ormsby of Castledargan, greater Cloghbrack encompassed, occasionally. More simply still, the widow, took out a lease on the lands more than likely, all the land adjacent name might just refer to a notable of Doonally from Benjamin Burton of to and north of the stream that drains presence of speckled gneiss boulders Dublin. The name is clearly originally Lough Dargan and rising northwards in those parts of Sliabh Daeane. Caisleán Locha Deargáin, the castle onto the slopes of Slieve Daeane. The Apart from Drumnascullia and of the lake of Deargán, later current townland of Killeenduff, Cloghbrack, the earliest alternative shortened to Caisleán Deargáin. which cuts westward from the lake place-name was that of Of the alternative place-names or into Castledargan, is not listed in the Towrehownein, a ‘parcel of the sub-denominations of Castledargan, Strafford Survey. estate of Melaughlin Roe McDonagh, that of Drumnascullagh is the Cloghbrack is not listed again until slain in battle’ which, according to the earliest found to-date. In the grant of Dr. Synge’s 1749 Census of the Patent Rolls of James I, was granted land by Margareta ny Donoghe to diocese of Elphin, when six to John Baxter c1614 for services William Taaffe in 1607, Dromaskelly householders were listed, five rendered. Tourehowen, was described is given as a sub-division of farmers and a weaver. In the 1770s in the Strafford Survey as – of the Castleloghdergane. It is described in Charles O’Hara’s survey of Co. Sligo Quarter of Cloragh (Cloghbrack), the Strafford Survey as having ‘very refers to Clogragh. And, in the with ‘arrable lande and grassing fine sheep ground and good for corn Landed Estates Court sales notices of ground together with mountaine … good meddowe … very good 1875 one of the five sub- proportionable’, a description that bleak land’, a description not denominations is called suggests a location on the northern dissimilar to that of the south end of Cloughabracka; some fields on the sector of the Castledargan lands. the townland. Following the Cromwellian Wars, the Book of Survey and Distribution records that ‘one cartron of ye Quarter of Dunneskelly’ had been transferred from Carnan McDonnogh to Richard Coote, Lord Collooney and that the ‘Quarter of Dromnesgoell’ remained with John Crofton. Drumneskelly is later recorded in deeds of 1716 and 1724. In the following century, the marriage settlement of Amy Jones to Nicholson Ormsby of Castledargan in 1843 and the Landed Estates Court sale notices of Castledargan in 1875 mention Drumnascullagh. Drumnascullagh, in its earliest Castledargan and Sliabh Daeane from Drumnascullagh

14 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

According to the Hearth Money Survey and Distribution, John subsequently Droim an Chaisleáin Rolls of 1662 Daniel Carvill of Crofton’s ownership confirmed, the when the late medieval castle was Towlehowne had a taxable hearth in land having belonged to him in 1641. built. Local knowledge, however, his house. In a draft of a letter of Its second and last mention was in places it on the ridge between Castle March 1663 to the Lord Lieutenant, June 1749 when James Crofton of Dargan House and the castle. Charles II directed that he pass Longford House farm-let to William Two additional place-names appear several of the lands of Bryan the cartron of Drumnamakin ‘called on the 1875 Landed Estates Court MacDonagh of Collooney to Richard commonly ye name of Castledargan’. sales documents - Priestown and Lord Coote of Collooney, among Having tentatively placed Culleenroach. No other records have them the combined half quarter of Drumnascullia, Cloghbrack, been found for them and they were Drumneskella and Tonelehowen. Tourehowen and Toweraney and never subsequently used. Following the Cromwellian eliminating the ridge on which Priestown is recorded in no other confiscations, John Crofton was Castleloghdargan is built (see source and is unknown today. It may confirmed as the owner of Drumnacushlane below), everything be an anglicized form of Baile an Tonerahowen according to the Book suggests that Drumnamackin is the tSagairt, which might have denoted of Survey and Distribution of the ridge on which Castle Dargan House an association with or the ownership 1680s. Finally in June 1749 James itself is built. of some land by a priest at any time Crofton farm-let, among others, the Drumnamackin may be derived from a late medieval period onwards. half-quarter of Tourehowen to from Droim na Meacan, the ridge of Records of penal times do not suggest William Ormsby of Castledargan for the tap-roots; meacan being a any priests living openly in the three lives. No later records have common element of the Irish form of townland, though two priests been found for this place-name, nor is the words for carrot, parsnip, turnip, administered to the parish of Kilross it known locally. A Lugnahowna, on radish, comfrey and many wild plant in 1668 and 1683 and in 1712 a Bryan the mountainside of Castledargan, that have tap roots. Higgin was reported to have said has been pointed out by Pádraic In the sale of the Ormsby lands by Mass at a house in Doonamurray, the Collery of Killeenduff. The Landed Estates Court in 1875, townland immediately to the south of The variants of the name might one of the sub-denominations of Castledargan. suggest that the name is derived from Castledargan was that of The location of Culleenroach, tuar na h-aibhnín or tuar na h- Drumnacushlane and previously, speculatively Coillín an Róistigh, abhann, the field of the (little) river. when John Crofton was confirmed in Roche’s little wood, is unknown. Nor However, considering its description his lands almost 200 years earlier, he is there a known record of the in the Strafford Survey and a possible had ownership of Dromcashell, lands Norman surname Roche in the parish, location close to the stream/river then associated with Drumnamackin though Norman incursions into Sligo which drains Lough Dargan, the and Tourehowen. Its name, Droim an from Mayo were not unknown. In name Tóin re hAbhainn, meaning a Chaisleáin or Droim (an) Chaisil, the 1249 Mac Feorais (Bermingham) piece of low ground facing, or ridge of the castle or cashel, suggests came into Lower Connacht as far as backing on to, a river, seems the more that it was the ridge close to the Sligo Castle, was ambushed by plausible. southeast corner of Castledargan on Feidhlim O Conor and several young The Strafford Survey recorded that a which the castle had been built. It is Norman knights killed, their bodies further quarter-part of the Quarter of likely that it was named Droim (an) being buried in Ballysadare. In 1304 Cloghbrack was that of Towerany, the Chaisil because of the existence of an the sons of Domhnall O Conor of inheritance of John Grana earlier cashel or stone fort and Carbery, who were under threat from MacDonnogh. It was described as having ‘a small Irish mill uppon it … small shrubs for shelter, good turffe, one days mowing of good meddow, little arable land, … a good scope of mountain’ which suggests that it stretched from the stream that drained Lough Dargan into the mountains. Its name, Tuar Eanaigh, cattle field/pasture of (the) marsh/wetland, would also support a partial location in some wetland parts of Castledargan, possibly the land stretching from west of the lake and northwards into Sliabh Daeane. Drumnamackin was a place-name that has appeared twice only in records seen to-date. In the Book of Cashellodargan "Gate" Tower, Bawn Wall and Tower House 15 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

several quarters, together with their between Slieve Dargan and Slieve fields for planning purposes and stock allies, the MacDonnchada, were Daeane on which turf was saved until records. Thus, Old Castle field, Old followed by the Galls (Anglo- relatively recent times and known as Castle Rock, Fahey’s Garden, Old Normans) of Leyney and Tireragh Luggayairig (the author’s phonetic Haggard field, South Railway field, onto the slopes of Sliabh Daeane. The spelling). Considering the North Railway field, Drumnasculla, O Conors and MacDonnchadha, inhospitable nature of the location, Drumnacushlown, Calf Park, Hall turning on them, routed and pursued the name is unlikely to be a corrupted Door field (including Carty’s corner), them to Ballysadare, killed Thomas version of the inhabited Cloughabrock, Pound field and MacWalter (Burke), his brother and Legnenerunagh. Carrigeenboy (inside the demesne many unnamed followers. There No written record of Cartystown walls), which is in fact a separate could have been Róistigh among has been found to-date, though its townland. Another list has the them or among other such Norman used locally in conversation. It is following variations; Quin’s Ground, raiders. According to Owen Jim Kelly identified with a cluster of ruined Isolation field, Cloghbrack Haggard of Cloghbrack, there is a area to the houses located east of the earlier and Bell field. Unfortunately, these east of the new Ballygawley Group Ballygawley Group Water Scheme may now be lost as a result of re- Water Scheme pump-house and reservoir and obviously named after development and the landscaping of Cartystown (see below), known as Carty families with deep roots. In many of the distinguishing features of ‘The Rootshuck’ (the author’s 1662 Rory O Carhey of Killeenduff the remaining demesne. spelling), which sounds very similar was recorded as having to pay Hearth –––––––– to Roitsi or Roidseach, Irish versions Money Tax; in 1749 William and My thanks to Nollaig Ó Muraíle, NUI of Roche used in the Annals of Hugh Carthy had households in Galway, for his advice on the Connacht and of the Four Masters. Castledargan; and in the 1850s derivation of several Gaelic place- Was a Roitseach killed and buried on Griffith Valuation, Catherine and names, to Pádraic Collery and Owen Jim Kelly for being generous with the slopes of Sliabh Daeane and is William Carty farmed a not their knowledge and Mrs Kathleen this Rootshuck the last vestige of inconsiderable twenty acres in what is Hosie, late of Castle Dargan House. Coillín an Róitsi? Then again, after known as Cartystown. From them are all that, ‘Rootshuck’ may be simply descended several of the modern day Bibliography Ruaiteach, the red place, so named Carty families of the parish. Beirne, Francis (ed.), The Diocese of Elphin, People, Places and Pilgrimage (Dublin, for the red mineral colouring of the There are many other local names 2000) soil or the water, as happens in some associated with the mountain which Book of Survey and Distribution, Volume places. will have to await another occasion; XIV, Folios 76-168 Burke, W.P., The Irish priests in the Penal Legnenerunagh is recorded in one Luggayairig, Pollnadrenshy, Sliabh Times, 1660 – 1760 (Waterford 1914) source only and is being tenuously na mBan, Boley Hill, Cruck Hill, Census of the Diocese of Elphin, NAI, M2466 associated with Castledargan because Luggathomish, Ben Lár, Ben Hool, (SCL) Freeman, A. Martin (ed.), The Annals of of its recorded sequence following Ben Garbh and possibly more. Connacht, (Dublin, 1970) the population records for No doubt there are many dis-used Freeman, A. Martin (ed.), Compossicion Castledargan and Cloghbrack in the or about-to-be-lost place-names in the Booke of Conought, (Dublin, 1936) Gray, Edward Stewart, Pedigrees of Co. Sligo 1749 Census of Elphin. A review of parishes and townlands of Sligo. Families – No. I its household family names does not They should be recorded or, if rarely McLysaght, E., Seventeenth century Hearth connect with any other later cluster of used and in danger of being lost, Money Rolls with full transcript for County Sligo family names which might provide its incorporated in appropriate house or Nicholls, Kenneth (ed.), The Irish Fiants of possible location. Assuming Log an housing development names. the Tudor Sovereigns (Dublin, 1994), 4 Oirchinnigh, the hollow of the Unfortunately, with the fashion for volumes Nicholls, K.W. Lynch Blosse Papers, in erenach, it might be possible to place Downs, Dales, Manors, Lawns and Analecta Hibernica, Vol. 29, 161 it close to either of two church sites. all that goes with them, the new O’Donovan, John (ed.), Annals of the The retrieval of quern-stones in house, SUV and all, in Kingdom of Ireland by the Four Masters, (Dublin, 1851) Kilross graveyard suggests the Drumnascullagh does not scan well. O’Hara, Charles, Survey of the economic existence of an earlier monastic Like our vernacular rural development of County Sligo in the eighteenth settlement there. Did it have an architecture, such names are not the century, PRONI T.2812/19/1 Pender, Seamus (ed.), A Census of Ireland unrecorded erenach family? Or, were fashion of the day. To their credit, the c.1659 (Dublin,1939) there unrecorded erenachs at the early residents of a new housing Pentland Mahaffy, Robert (ed), Calendar of Christian site of Killerin, just 0.5km development in Riverstown have State Papers of Ireland 1663-1665, (London, 1907) to the west of Castledargan? No local incorporated the now officially Registry of Deeds, Henrietta Place, Dublin knowledge of Legnenerunagh exists. defunct townland name of Urlar into Strafford Survey of County Sligo, transcript, As previously adverted to, a their estate name of Lisurlar. NLI Ms. 2166 The Sligo Champion, 16 January 1883 Lugnahowna is known, situated in NOTE: Following its purchase of The Sligo Independent, 15 September, 1883 Castledargan townland which might Castledargan in 1883, the Hosie Vicars, Sir Arthur (ed), Index of the be an extreme corruption of the family continued to use several of Prerogative Wills of Ireland, 1536-1810, (Dublin, 1893) former name. these place-names, in addition to Wood-Martin W.G., History of Sligo, County There is also an area of deep bog others of their own devising, to define and Town (Dublin, 1882), 3 volumes

16 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Sligo NFA/IFA Golden Jubilee

Declan Lavin

THE SLIGO EXECUTIVE of the commodity committees. Most In those early years of the NFA, Irish Farmers Association celebrates commodity committees hold their farming was a hard life. Farmers its golden jubilee this year, 2005. meetings in the Farm centre in Dublin depended on the British market, In January a banquet was held in except the Western Development which fluctuated greatly, making it the Southern Hotel, Sligo, at which a Committee which holds its meetings very hard for farmers to plan for the book remembering fifty years of IFA in Athlone. future. This uncertainty caused a lot in Sligo was launched by Michael The Commodity committees draw of anger and frustration and led to the Morley, secretary of Connacht Gold up policies for each of their briefs. renowned march of farmers to Dail Co-operative Society. After the These are then presented to national Eireann in 1966. Joe Dunphy of success of the January banquet and council, the governing body, where Easkey led the Sligo march. Joe was book launch, Chairperson Theresa they are accepted, amended or also one of the nine farmers who sat Gilligan is looking forward to other rejected. National council decision outside the Dail in protest at the major events in Sligo in the Autumn. becomes IFA policy and must be refusal of the Minister for Agriculture Sligo Executive of the IFA has supported by all members. to meet the marchers. This march and eighteen branches throughout the In the early years the organisation protest was in hindsight looked upon County. These branches nominate and was known as the National Farmers as the coming of age of the elect members to attend the county Association (NFA). On entry to the Association. The great example set by executive monthly meetings and EEC, the NFA changed its name to the leaders of that era has been represent the members of the branch. the Irish Farmers Association (IFA) carried on by numerous stalwarts to The branch also elects the national and represented the farmers of Ireland this day. president and deputy president and on the European and international After joining the EEC, farming vice presidents. Connacht has its own stages. The organisation also opened under the Common Agricultural vice president, elected by the an office in Brussels and became a Policy became prosperous. Great Connacht counties including Sligo. very effective lobby for its farmer strides were made in increasing Members also elect fellow farmers to members. agricultural production. Every farmer in Sligo was reclaiming land with EEC grants and expanding output to meet consumer demand. The ability of farmers to react to the challenge and opportunity that EEC entry brought was historic. So successful was it that "food mountains" became the new catch phrase. Food mountains led to a new approach by the EU Commission, with the implementation of a quota regime which curtailed output. Also world trade demands to cut import tariffs and export aid have brought a major decline in farming profit in the last few years. A new policy of direct payment to farmers or, as it’s often called, 'a cheque in the post', is being implemented in this the golden jubilee of the IFA. The organisation will probably have as difficult a challenge in the future as the farmers of 1966 had. It is imperative for rural Ireland and Co Sligo that young farmers of today devote time and energy to the organisation, thereby helping to guarantee as much as possible an L/r: Theresa Gilligan, Michael Berkery, Frances Guckian, Billy Sommerville, Joe optimistic future in farming. Coulter, Mary O’Mahony 17 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Making St. Brigid’s Crosses

Bridget King

MOST PEOPLE, when asked to God." This may be a single diamond be pulled, never cut; other people describe a St Brigid’s cross, will think or a series arranged along the vertical maintain rushes were always cut. In of a rush cross with four legs coming and horizontal arms of the cross (see practice it is very difficult to pull any out from the corners of a central Figure 2). It was widely made quantity of clean, long, undamaged square. But this was not always so. In throughout Ireland in many rushes). the past, crosses were made in a wide variations, some extremely elaborate, Bulrushes grow along slow variety of shapes and patterns and and indeed is found in many parts of moving rivers and in shallow lake while they were usually made of the world. margins. They are much sturdier than rushes or straw, other materials were Woven: This method involves field rushes and so are the preferred probably used depending upon what weaving in and out in a way similar to material for the folded crosses for was freely and readily available in the warp and weft of textile weaving, sale in gift shops etc. However, any locality. A number of museums darning in needlework or stake and forward planning is required since the and folk parks around the country strand basketry. The rushes or straw rushes must be harvested in high have displays showing the various are usually used in groups of three summer and the drying, storing and kinds. In Connacht, both the National and are either woven to produce an subsequent preparation takes care and Museum of Country Life at Turlough, open, lattice design tied in such a way attention. Castlebar, and the Folk Museum at as to produce a bow shaped cross (see Straw was once one of the most Knock have large collections. Figure 3), or closely spaced widely used materials for all types of producing a narrower, straighter crosses and, until around the middle THE DESIGNS cross. It was a favourite design in of the twentieth century, was readily The designs of the crosses fall into parts of North Connacht and adjacent available in many parts of the four main groups based on the areas of Ulster country. Today’s baled straw is short, method used to construct them: Plaited: Plaited or twisted lengths crushed, chopped and bent to the folded, coiled, woven, plaited. of rush or more commonly straw are point were it is totally unsuitable for Folded: These crosses are formed made into a symmetrical cross making crosses. If you want to use it, by looping or folding rushes or straws surrounded by a circle (see Figure 4). you will need to find a specialist over each other in sequence. This Known also the "the Wheel" it was supplier of long, clean, undamaged forms a solid centre with the open popular in parts of Munster. straw or grow a small square of your ends of the rushes being tied together Elaborate Crosses using more own - pick the cereal grains out from at the ends to produce "legs". There than one technique are known to have a packet of wild bird food and use are a number of variations. The most been made, for example, very them as seed. familiar one is in the form of a central elaborate "Eye of God" designs Willow beds or sally gardens were square with a leg at each corner, incorporating plaited wheels and once a common sight in rural Ireland known technically as a tetraskele (see shamrocks as well as a large number from where strong, supple year-old Figure 1). Although nowadays of coiled diamonds of various sizes. rods were harvested during the winter regarded as the standard design, it for basket making and so on. These was by no means traditionally made TRADITIONAL MATERIALS have now all but disappeared but the everywhere throughout Ireland. In Field Rushes were and still are a wild or hedgerow willow remains another design, rushes were folded to favourite material. They are widely abundant. Although willow shrinks as produce a triangular centre with three available, easily gathered and are it dries, this is not a problem when legs protruding. This design, known fairly strong and flexible yet capable using it to make St Brigid’s crosses as a triskele, was often made in Ulster of holding their own shape. They can where it was used to make the struts specifically for the byre whilst in be used for all types of crosses though of the cross in the "Eye of God" other areas it was made for the they do produce a rather floppy plait. design. Although I have not yet seen dwelling house. Another more Traditionally they are harvested on St an old example, willow is easy to complex variation known as "the Brigid’s Eve (January 31) from the weave into the woven, open lattice Mother and Child" has a small long acre or a neighbour’s land - to cross and comes in a wide range of diamond with four legs enclosed in a use your own implies you have an attractive colours including purple, larger four legged square. abundance of rushes which is green, chestnut, greyish green and Coiled: In this design, the cross is tantamount to an admission of poor orange red. It can be a gamble on made usually of wood, and, starting husbandry. They quickly dry out and whether you can cut the hedgerow from the centre, lengths of rush or become brittle and so, once cut, need willow before the flailer does, but it straw are coiled or wound around in a to be kept cool and damp and used roots easily from slips taken in the circular fashion to produce a diamond within a day or two. (I have read and late winter or early spring. These or lozenge known as the "Eye of been told that rushes should always cuttings should be around 50cm (18 i

18 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

nches) long with approximately Either soak the leaves or leave them half the length inserted into the out in the rain for a few hours before ground. By custom and good using them. Similarly, orange practice, they should be planted when Crocosmia (formerly known as the moon is waning. montbretia), although an introduction, is often found growing OTHER NATURAL MATERIALS along roadsides and in abandoned Whilst I have not seen any old gardens and can be used in the same crosses made with them, there are a way. Of the more recently introduced number of other natural materials garden varieties, the tall red flowered which might have been used in the "Lucifer" produces very long, strong past and certainly can be used today. leaves. The following list is by no means Periwinkles produce the first of Figure 1: Folded Cross complete but gives a sample of what I their clear blue flowers on or around have found to be successful. St Brigid’s Day each year. In some Hazel and Ash were used for parts of the country, including South many things in the past and can be Sligo, it used to be customary on St used as struts for the "Eye of God." Brigid’s Day to put periwinkle The wood is less flexible than willow flowers in various parts of the house but thin, supple rods (that is, ones that as added protection. Although there you can bend easily around your seems to be no record of the long wrist) can be woven into the lattice trailing stems being used, they are crosses. excellent for coiling or winding into Dogwood, introduced relatively the "Eye of God." Strip off the leaves recently as an ornamental shrub, and leave the stems to air in a warm produces straight, supple one-year place for about two days. This old rods which weave nearly as well produces stems which are still supple as willow. It is now available in but far less likely to snap than fresh Figure 2: Coiled Cross bright green, yellow and orange as freshly picked ones. well as the more familiar burgundy. It grows fast and can be propagated MODERN MATERIALS easily in the same way as willow. Do not ignore the abundance of man- Blackberry bramble or briar is made materials unavailable to common and in the past was widely previous generations but now found used in basket making both as a everywhere. In the past, people used weaver and for lacing or binding. It is what was freely and readily to hand flexible enough to be used in woven and we can do likewise. Certain crosses and split lengths can be traditionalists, whatever the craft, wound around to make the "Eye of will maintain that there is a right way God"diamonds. The main problem is and a wrong way of doing things. I that it needs de-thorning without agree that it is right, indeed essential, damaging its bark or your skin. Wild to understand and be familiar with the or garden roses can be used in the skills and techniques of the past. I same way. disagree that we should only stick Figure 3: Woven Cross Purple Moor Grass is found in rigidly to what was done in the past; bogs and other wet areas and in the mere repetition leads in the end to past was used to make ropes. I have boredom and declining interest. Who been told, though cannot verify it, is to say that you cannot cut up your that it was used in South Sligo to old J-cloths and plait them into a make the narrow woven cross and, Munster Wheel? You may not like my like field rushes, was gathered on St "Eye of God" made from blue baler Brigid’s Eve. twine incorporating a couple of Yellow Flag or Wild Iris rounds of gold tinsel but that is flourishes in damp land in the West of simply a matter of taste. If it works Ireland. When dried, the leaves are for you and it looks right, then it is reminiscent of raffia and can be used right. After all, St Brigid herself used for plaiting and tying. The leaves her imagination to experiment with should be gathered in autumn when what was around her to fashion her they are beginning to brown and hung first cross. What better example could Figure 4: Plaited Cross in a cool shed or outhouse to dry. we have?

19 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 The Sacred Heart Altar in the Church of the Immaculate Conception, Ballymote

John Coleman

THE MOST beautiful feature in the that on the right containing white in honour of the Sacred Heart of Jesus Church in Ballymote is the altar lilies, the traditional symbol of purity. in 1672. He promoted devotion to the devoted to the Sacred Heart. In her visions Our Lord urged Sacred Heart, including in his book The altar itself is executed in white devotion to His Sacred Heart as The Life and Royalty of Jesus in the marble with the Sacred Heart symbolising his love of mankind. In Christian Soul (1637). Pope Leo XIII emitting flames from the top in which the second of her apparitions St. declared him the author of liturgical is the cross forming the centre point Margaret Mary saw the Heart with devotion to the Sacred Heart and bound with the crown of thorns, with the wound inflicted by the spear, Pope Pius X said that he was regarded rays emitting from the whole. The surrounded by a crown of thorns and as the father of worship of the Sacred crown of thorns symbolises the surmounted by a cross, as depicted in Heart. He was canonised by Pope suffering which that heart of Jesus the altar in the church.iii Pius XI in 1925. had endured in recompense for our Her fellow sisters were sceptical of The inscription "Behold this Heart" sins; the burning flame symbolises her visions, but she was supported by was added by Canon Robert Flynn the enduring love which he has for all a Jesuit, Claude la Colombiere, who and is an extract from the words mankind and the rays symbolise the was canonised by outpouring of that love. There are Pope John Paul II in gothic niches on either side 1992.iv She was containing vases of votive flowers. canonised by Pope The altarpiece is executed in plaster Benedict XV in framed by a beautiful gothic style 1920 who declared setting, much lighter and more that "the widespread delicate than the heavier Gothic devotion is due to architecture of the Church, capped off the revelation at the corners by spires or finials.i granted to St. The scene depicted is one of the Margaret Mary". visions or apparitions of the Sacred High up above the Heart to Saint Margaret Mary altar is a set of four Alacoque (1647-1690) at the Convent stained glass of the Visitation at Paray-le-Monial windows. The top which occurred between 1673 and centre window 1675. Margaret Mary was born at depicts the Sacred L’Hautcour in the French area of Heart. To the right is Burgundy in 1647. After a childhood St. Margaret Mary in tempered with ill health and other adoration and below trials she entered the Convent at the she is depicted age of 24.ii holding the Sacred In the vision depicted we see Sr. Heart. To the left is Margaret Mary kneeling in prayer the figure of a male before a gothic altar in front of which person holding a a full size figure of Christ has book and a pen. This appeared in a cloud and points to his I think must Sacred Heart. represent St John Some artistic licence is exercised by Eudes (1601- the maker of the deep plaster relief in 1680).v He was a that there are again vases to the left great preacher of and right, that on the left displaying fervour and the passion flower, with its symbols eloquence and of the passion and death of Christ, composed an Office 20 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 conveyed to St. Margaret Mary in one Pope Pius XII and this was just a few John Coleman BA MLitt FRSA of the apparitions. years before the dedication of the I was inspired in writing this article Devotion to the Sacred Heart of Church in Ballymote.viii However, it by much discussion with my good Jesus had its roots in the Gospel of St is not clear when the altar was friend Philip Morrissey. I am grateful John (7:37-9 and 19:33-7). The installed in the church in Ballymote. to Peter Costello, Hon. Librarian and Middle Ages saw the Sacred Heart as The Church was dedicated on Sunday Teresa Whittington, Librarian at the representative of the Passion and the 4 September 1864.ix A full page in Catholic Central Library for their merciful and unbounded love which it The Sligo Champion of 10 September assistance. promoted. 1864 was devoted to a description of Devotion to the Sacred Heart in the Church and the opening ceremony Ireland is of very long standing and at which the sermon was preached by an image of the Sacred Heart has for Archbishop McHale of Tuam (full References: text of sermon given) and a Mozart i See Michael McCarthy, The Origins of long been a prominent feature of Irish x the Gothic Revival, New Haven & catholic homes, often, since the Mass was sung. It is noted that the London, 1987. advent of electricity, with a perpetual spire remained unfinished. However ii For an account of the life of St. Margaret no mention is made of an altar Mary Alacoque see New Catholic burning red bulb in which is the Encyclopedia, 1966. dedicated to the Sacred Heart being in image of a crucifix. One of the iii Rev M.D. Forrest, Heart Afire devotion to place. It is noted that "the church was the Sacred Heart, Dublin and London, promises revealed to St. Margaret so far completed in all its beautiful 1953 Mary was that the Sacred Heart proportions as to admit of its iv He was sent to London as Catholic would bless the homes in which the Chaplain to the Duchess of York (wife of dedication". The account notes the the future King James II) but arrested on image of His Heart is enthroned and fact that due to the failing of harvests a charge of treason and died of TB in the honoured. Ireland was consecrated to in 1861,62 and 63 there was real Tower of London in 1782. vi v For an account of the life of St John Eudes the Sacred Heart in 1873. The difficulty in raising funds locally and see New Catholic Encyclopaedia, 1966. recently discovered masterpiece of valiant efforts were made by Canon vi Liam Swords, A Dominant Church, The the Irish painter Aloysius O’Kelly Diocese of Achonry 1818-1960, Dublin, Tighe to raise funds from the Irish 2004, p. 402. (1853-c.1941) Mass in a Connemara community abroad. In such vii See Niamh O’Sullivan's note on no. 32 (a Cabin, painted in 1883, shows an circumstances, and considering the watercolour colour study of this picture), image of the Sacred Heart hanging on p 22-23 of the Gorry Gallery, Dublin unfinished state of the spire, part of catalogue of their exhibition of 2nd –12th the wall in the centre of the the very fabric of the church, it is very March 2005. I am also grateful to Niamh background of the cottage.vii This unlikely that the altar dedicated to the O’Sullivan for giving me a copy of more extensive piece she has written on the large and magnificent painting of a Sacred Heart was already in place at painting. station mass is on loan to the National this time. viii Ballymote Church was by the architect Gallery and on display there. Another question, which for the George Goldie (1798-1868) of the London firm of Hatfield and Goldie, who We all know the Sacred Heart present remains unanswered, is who also was responsible for the cathedral in Messenger to which many families was responsible for the design and Ballaghaderreen, the Church in subscribe. The Messenger was manufacture of the altar. It may have Charlestown and other religious buildings in Sligo town (Jeremy Williams, A founded in Dublin in 1888 by the been the firm of Earleys of Camden Companion Guide to Architecture in Irish Jesuit Fr Paul Cullen (he was Street in Dublin. Earleys were the Ireland, Dublin, 1994, p. 334.). I have given use of a small room and a £1 leading firm of Church decorators noticed a very beautiful depiction of the Apparition to St. Margaret Mary in the note). By the end of the first year from the 1850s until early in the 20th Church in Edgworthstown, Co. Longford circulation had risen to 9,000 and by Century. They were responsible for a in one of the recently beautifully restored stained glass panels over the altar. 1904 to 73,000. It was sold at 1 penny similarly complex altar dedicated to ix Liam Swords, A Dominant Church, The a copy and distributed by volunteers, the Sacred Heart in the Augustinian Diocese of Achonry 1818-1960, Dublin, which it still is. The June 1889 issue Church, John’s Lane, Dublin 2004, p. 357 xi x A microfilm copy of The Sligo Champion of the Messenger declared "Tens of (Thomas Street). William Earley, a is available in The National Library of thousands of our Catholics wear the member of this family remembers Ireland. The September/October 1988 badge as an emblem of their loyalty family stories of their dealings with edition of the Corran Herald contains an article on the Church without mention of and devotion to the Heart it Canon Quinn of Ballymote. There the altar and likewise the May 1986 represents, and there is scarcely a were of course two Canon Quinns, edition with an extract from the home, even the poorest, which does the brothers Canon Batty (d. 1920) Freeman’s Journal of the time. xi The altar in the Augustinian Church has a not possess some picture or image of and Canon Tom (d. 1947). Support stained glass window at the top showing it." The first Friday devotions, with for the suggestion that the altar might the apparition and the figure of the Sacred Heart in mosaic over the altar. There is a their gift of final repentance, spring have been installed by Canon Tom further stained glass window in the same directly from the revelations to St. Quinn is that both St. Margaret Mary church representing the apparition, Margaret Mary. and St. John Eudes are depicted with probably by the Irish artist Michael Healy. The Early archives are in the National It is also quite usual to find a side halos representative of their being College of Art and design but the location altar of our churches dedicated to the recognised by the Church as Saints for many drawings remains unknown and Sacred Heart. The Feast of the Sacred and they were canonised in 1920 and further searches there may reveal plans for the work they did in Ballymote Heart was made General in 1856 by 1925 respectively. Church. 21 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Heelin Coos: Scotland’s Favourite Beasts

Niamh Conlon

HIGHLAND CATTLE are one of can produce young when over 18 thought that all domestic cattle in Scotland’s most famous animals. years old, with cows having up to 15 Scotland today are derived from the With their long shaggy hair and calves, of which they are very Aurochs or European Wild Ox. The massive horns they look like some protective. But this longevity is Wild Ox came from Central Asia or sort of pre-historic beast roaming the offset by a slow maturation rate with India, being found in Japan, China, hills and glens. They are considered cattle taking 4-5 years to reach North Africa and the Himalayas to be among the most intelligent maturity. Even the animal’s coat can seven million years ago. By two species of bovines and are one of the take 3 years to settle into its adult million yeas ago the species had most adaptive. Unlike other cattle colour. diversified into Aurochs, Yaks, they do not stress easily and can The first herd book for Highland European Bison, Indian Bison and survive harsh cold and altitude as Cattle was established in 1884, Indian Buffalo. As the ice retreated their presence high in the Peruvian making them the oldest registered from the northern latitudes they mountains has proven. It is claimed breed of cattle in the world and migrated to Scotland around 12- that they can survive temperatures as ensuring that today’s cattle can trace 10,000BC, coming north from low as –20ºC with regular their ancestors back many England and West from Denmark temperatures of –2ºC not upsetting generations. Much of the early across the then dry, forested North them. In Sweden they are the only development of the species is Sea Basin. As the sea levels rose they breed allowed by law to be wintered unknown but many authors have were cut off in their new island home. outdoors. Instead of laying down fat speculated about their origins. It is Imposing animals, they rose to to keep themselves warm they have two layers of hair, a coarse outer coat covering an inner layer of thick short hair. For pedigree cattle this hair is regularly brushed and often piles of moulted hair can be seen in fields before the birds steal it for their nests. Because they retain heat with hair and not fat their lean meat is prized and various attempts have been made to cross breed them with larger cattle. However, their meat is not the only reason they are becoming a popular breed: their ability to survive on marginal land has obvious benefits. They feed less in winter even when provided with more food as their bodies naturally slow down in preparation for the lean months, thus making them very self reliant. In some remote areas they are used as an environmental tool. In Switzerland and parts of Scotland they are used to maintain high mountain pastures that would otherwise not be grazed and therefore be lost along with the ecological diversity they contain. Many conservation charities are now looking at the benefits of keeping cattle on their upland properties and in Scotland Highland Cows are the most obvious and economical choice. They are prone to good health and Highland cow 22 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 almost 6ft in height with a shoulder means kyle, the modern name given span of 4ft judging by remains found to the narrow stretches of sea in the north of Scotland in Iron Age dividing island from mainland and Very Rev. T. broch settlements. While the bones therefore something the animals had have been found in domestic setting to cross to reach the mainland. Canon Quinn, there is no evidence to suggest These black cattle were a traditional domestication but rather they were form of wealth and had a history of P.P. probably hunted. It is thought that movement from transhumance to the THE death has occurred at the they were driven north by man until shielings or summer grazings to theft Parochial House, Ballymote, of they became extinct in the 9th or 10th by rival clans. As the Highlands were Very Rev. T.H. Canon Quinn, P.P. century. In Poland the species fared drawn into the economy of the south, Aged 70, deceased was a native better surviving until 1627. cattle became a source of wealth. The first domestic breed of cattle in The industrial south needed meat and of Ballinabole, Collooney, Co. Scotland were the Celtic Shorthorn; Scotland had a scarcity of money, so Sligo. these were brought over by Neolithic droving became an answer to both Educated at Summerhill peoples almost 8000 yeas ago and not problems. As early as 1663 the College, Sligo, and St. Nathy’s by the later Celtic people as the name number of Scottish cattle passing College, Ballaghaderreen, he suggests. These animals were a through Carlisle in the north west of entered Maynooth where he read domesticated version of the European England was 18,547. With the union a distinguished course. Wild Ox. Their remains are found of the crowns in 1707 this trade Immediately on his ordination he near human settlement but analysis of increased until its peak in the 1820s was appointed professor at St. limb remains suggest that they ranged when in 1827 the Falkirk tryst Nathy’s College, and also held the over a wide area and were usually (market) in Scotland’s central belt office of Administrator at killed when young. This implies that covered 200 acres, was held three they were either semi-wild cattle times a year with in excess of Coolaney. He was sent on a hunted when young or they were kept 100,000 cattle changing hands at special mission to Glasgow in aid for their milk, young males being each, two of them reaching 130,000. of St. Nathy’s Cathedral, killed for meat. With these markets and droves came Ballaghaderreen and for some Contemporary with this two other increasing trade for smiths who shod time was Administrator of species of cattle were introduced to the cattle and banks were founded Tourlestrane. He later went on southern Britain, with many authors some of which survive today. Hotels another mission to America in suggesting three. It is quite possible were built on drove roads such as the continuation of his efforts on that these new breeds, the Celtic Kings House in Glencoe and tolls behalf of the Cathedral funds. He Shorthorn and the Wild Ox were were charged to use roads and was appointed parish priest of interbreeding for a time. Later the stances. The economy of the Bunninadden and in 1921 he was Romans, Angles and Norsemen Highlands changed but in the 1860s brought their own cattle, adding to the advents of better refrigeration translated as Canon of Ballymote, the gene pool of later beasts. From techniques, transport and agricultural where he succeeded his brother, these potential matings emerged the practices meant that cattle could be Very Rev. B. Canon Quinn. Highland cattle of today, a breed that fattened in the north and the meat The late Canon Quinn was a evolved in the Highlands of Scotland shipped south with no loss of noted theologian and he held the and are only 52 generations removed condition. This and competition from office of theologian of Achonry from the Wild Ox whose bones are other meat producing countries saw diocese. He took a deep interest in found in the northern bogs. the end of the little black cattle droves education and was a member of But the red-dun coloured cattle of and very soon the black cattle Co. Sligo Vocational Committee. today’s postcards only became the themselves were interbred with their He was greatly interested in most popular breed in the last few larger red cousins and while black centuries, as before that the majority cattle can still be seen it is thought historical records of the locality. of Highland cattle were smaller black that the original breed is gone and In November last, he took a animals called Kyloes. A sub species only a colour remains. prominent part in the fifth of these were the Norlanders found in centenary of the coming of the References Franciscan Fathers to Ballymote. the extreme north of Scotland and Cochrane, U, A Keen Eye: Fact and Fiction considered inferior to Kyloes. The on Scottish Highland Cattle, Edinburgh, He was an extensive farmer and Kyloes were found mainly in the 1996. agriculturist and was a member of Haldane, ARB, The Drove Roads of Scotland, Western Isles and Western Scotland. Edinburgh, 1996 the Shorthorn Society of Great Some authors suggest that the name Sands, H, ADream of a Breed, Country Small Britain and Ireland, and also of derives from the Gaelic "coille" or Holding March 2003 Author Unknown, The Genetics of Highland the Royal Dublin Society. wood as cattle were found in wooded Cattle, Highland Breeders Journal June 2004 areas in their wild state. Others feel it Information from The Highland Cattle Canon T. Quinn died in 1943. derives from the word "caol" which Breeding Society, Thornhill, Scotland. Above piece supplied by Jim Kielty. http://www.cruachan.com.au 23 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Bellamont House, Collooney, and other 17th Century Fortified Houses in Co. Sligo

Martin A. Timoney

A POSSIBLE CASTLE IN openings in the walls are featureless actual location, opposite a bridge, as COLLOONEY and so do not help with the dating. being part of a pattern of choosing In October 1999 I researched a Through the gaps at ground level one points of vantage opposite fords or possible castle site in Collooney for can see for at most a metre and there bridges near chief roads or passes. Miss Moira Fallon1 of Collooney. Of is a suggestion that a dividing wall Modern housing masks this today but all the archaeological problems that still exists beneath the tarmacadam. the adjacent Catholic Church locates have come my way over the years this Without at least some access to the Coote’s castle and the bridge, even one was unique! Moira Fallon interior it is not possible to tell what from a distance, in the landscape. accepted a local and family tradition is more than a century old. However, However, local knowledge is quite that she has a castle in her garden, curiously there are no apparent certain that the castle was the one Richard Coote’s castle or fortified features of 17th century date. built by Sir Richard Coote4 (1620- house of 1655, but having made an 1683) in 1655. The late and most initial visit to the site I was totally LOCATION lamented Mr. Jim McGarry, Ll. B., sceptical. Though none of it seemed The castle seems to have former solicitor, genuine local obvious, the location turned out to be miraculously escaped being marked historian and a wonderful institution the site where Bellamont, alias on any large-scale map; I can find no in himself, was also quite adamant Belmont, House now stands adjacent old map of Collooney town to assist. that this is Coote’s castle (1980, 5-6, to the Catholic Church of the The structure is not on the 1838 or and personal comments). John Assumption, both designed by Sir subsequent OS maps and it is not in O'Hara, then historian with the Sligo John Benson. These notes are the Recorded Monuments and Places Family Research Society and derived from that research for Miss Register3. octogenarian Cecil Haire, both of Moira Fallon whose help is The castle is on the south side of whom have strong connections with acknowledged. the E/W road leading from upper Collooney, also believe this to be a Collooney, past the Catholic Church castle. The tradition is that Coote THE CASTLE of the Assumption, to what used to be used stones from the old McDonagh Little of the castle or fortified the main Sligo to Dublin road. castle of 1408 near the confluence of house remains. Two much repaired O’Rorke (1878, 54) says that the the Owenmore and Unsion, a walls, measuring 12.1m by 12.7m, location of Coote’s Castle was kilometre to the northeast. rise in part to 2m and in part to about adjoining where Mr. George Allen’s In The Griffith Valuation of 1857 4.3m from the Castle Gardens2. At cottage stands and this seems to be for the Union of Sligo, p. 194, it is street level there is a garage, 7.5m by the earliest clear indication of where 1 Bellamont House, I think that is the historically correct spelling, is small Gothic house designed by Sir John 4m, with incorporated pre-garage but Coote's castle specifically was. Benson as a retirement home for himself (McGarry 1980, non-diagnostic masonry. The O’Rorke (I, 1889, 183) sees this 54) but he died in 1874 in London and never got to live in it. 2 To the south of the Castle Gardens the Recorded Monuments Map has Sl.26:170 which is listed as "Barrack - Infantry possible". The three high-walled gardens are known as The Castle Gardens. This garden measures 58.5m by 22m. The castle structure takes up a corner measuring 12.1m by 12.7m at the road frontage, i.e., in the NW corner. High walls, more likely of 18th or 19th century date than of Coote’s time, surround the Castle Gardens. To the south again is another walled garden; so far nobody has offered any suggestion as to its origin. I am not sure if this is the third Castle Garden. For some reason this has been classified as a "Barrack - Infantry possible" in the Recorded Monuments Register. Clearly this is a Walled Garden or a Kitchen Garden and not a barrack of any sort. Its location, overlooked by high ground from several sides, argues against it having any military connotation. Furthermore none of the Collooney or the Co. Sligo local historians who would know have any record or tradition of a barrack here. 3 Following on my library research the adjacent garden was test excavated by Malachy Conway (Conway 2000), the classification heading on which, ‘Infantry barrack, possible’, taken from the entry in the Recorded Monuments and Places list, provoked a follow-up note by this writer (Timoney 2001). The test excavation by three trenches of the sunken garden beside the potential castle "did not reveal any soils, features or finds of The 17th century house at Ballincar on the Rosses Point road –Photo Martin A. Timoney. archaeological significance" (Conway 2000, 274). 24 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 recorded that Rev. Terence O'Rorke with 3 hearths and one with 4 hearths; OLD PHOTOGRAPHS lived two houses to the west of the after that Coote’s castle is the next, Some photos of this part of Church of the Assumption while and only bigger one, in the list. Collooney provided by Aidan George Allen lived two houses to the Either Coote was willing to pour out Mannion give some information east, i.e., on the property now known money in taxes as a display of wealth despite being postcard size and taken as Belmont, recte Bellamont, House5. or he had the biggest seventeenth to record the village or the church, not O'Rorke was living just a hundred century castle in Co. Sligo! Houses the castle. Under magnification it is yards away from Richard Coote's were taxed as per the number of possible to see a three-story structure Castle. O'Rorke, who wrote the hearths they had. with 3 windows and 2 ?doors to the history of Collooney in his O’Rorke (1878, 145) records in the east and with 2 windows and 2 ?doors Ballisodare and Kilvarnet (1878) and Census of 1659, that of the 76 people to the south. Apparently it had a also wrote a two volume History of in Collooney 37 belonged to gable to the north, though the ivy Sligo (1889), ministered in his native Collooney castle, the residence of cover could be deceptive. The Collooney from 1854 to 1907. Richard Coote. O’Dowd (1991, 139) earliest photograph shows a high ivy- O'Rorke (1878), then, is as far back as records that Richard Coote kept part covered gable to the road front. we can get with a locational reference of his troop at Collooney. Apparently the ivy covers two storeys to Coote's Collooney castle but, as he Where was the rest of the castle? where the single story garage is now was born in Collooney in 1819, he is Does any more still exist, to the north with a single story in the possibly recording tradition of his under the street, or to the west under tarmacadamed area to the rear. youth in the 1820s. Bellamont House, or as far as under the Catholic Church or its carpark? TITLE DEEDS SIZE OF THE CASTLE Or should we be looking east, though Title deeds to the property begin Are we looking at the almost the landscape does not fit as a castle with Bryan Ricco Cooper of Markree featureless walls of a corner tower? location. Are the Castle Gardens the in possession at the beginning of the If so, in what direction were the walls bawn area of the castle? 20th century. One details that the and other parts of the castle? Without The historical information outlined Sligo, Leitrim and Northern Counties architectural or map evidence we are above implies a sizeable structure and Railway bought "that plot of ground stuck with the problem of not only a little of it survives standing with the dwelling house and out- knowing just how big the castle was, today. It may be a fair assumption offices thereon known as Belmont which way the castle turns, or where then that stone from Coote’s castle House situate at Collooney" in 1941. it extended to. A number of pieces of went into the now demolished 1798 historical information point to a chapel. The foundations of COMMENT sizeable castle. Bellamont House and the ground Our past can be frustrating, in the The castle is recorded in the Hearth under the carpark and the 1837 way that tantalising references to a Money Rolls for 1662 as having had present Catholic Church of the major castle, in fact the biggest in the 10 hearths (MacLysaght 1967, 30; Assumption may be other repositories county if we are to judge by the O’Dowd 1991, 141). In Appendix II, for this stone! Hearth Money Rolls of 1665, exist extracted from MacLysaght (1967) I The next two largest castles would but still the archaeological or give a list of the 19 houses that are be Moygara, 60m by 55m, and architectural evidence is scant, and recorded as having had more than one Ardtermon, which with its bawn confusion is added by a curious hearth. There are 15 with 2 hearths, 2 takes up an area of 35m by 40m. reference to a possible Infantry Barracks, an attribution that still needs clarification. Assuming that this was Richard Coote’s Castle of 1655, i.e., a mid- 17th century fortified house then it was one of a series of fortified houses

4 The name Belmont, or, as seems more correct, Bellamont may derive from the fact that Richard Coote, son of Sir Charles Coote, was made Baron of Collooney in 1666 by Charles II, then Earl of Bellamont in 1689 by William III and later again Governor of New York in 1695 by William III. Coote got Collooney in 1643. In 1655 Richard Coote built a castle in Collooney. In 1727 Richard Coote sold Collooney to Cooper of Markree for £16,945, 5s, 6d. This may imply a period of use of no more than 72 years use for the castle as Cooper had already a substantial dwelling less than two miles to the east, but this abandonment seems unlikely in the light of the evidence for its size assembled below. The removal of the Coote family from Collooney could have something to do with a child falling out the window of the castle, thereafter regarded as being unlucky. The Coote title became extinct in 1800. Bellamont Forest, Cootehill, Co. Cavan, was a later Coote property (Bence- Jones 1978, 37). Ballyfin, Co. Offaly, is another Coote house. There is a bawn at Cootehall, Co. Roscommon, and Jamestown, Co. Leitrim, owes its genesis to the Coote family. 5 There was a house across where the access to the church Bellamont House. –Photo: Martin A. Timoney carpark is now. 25 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 of that period in the county. Some, References Appendix I Castlebaldwin, Ballincar, Ardtermon, Conway, Malachy, 2000: "Collooney", Aprovisional list of 17th century fortified Excavations Bulletin 1999, 274, 99E0652. houses or castles for example, are in excellent Craig, Maurice, 1976: Classic Irish Houses of Annaghmore, A short distance NW of the condition, as far as such structures go. the Middle Size. present house (Egan et al. 2005, 481). Others have been obliterated or Craig, Maurice, 1982: The Architecture of Ardtermon, excavations 1982 by Joyce Ireland from Earliest Times to 1880. Enright, (Waterman 1961, 268-270, Pl. XXX; wrapped up in the fabric of later Kerrigan, Paul M., 1995: Castles and Craig 1982, 125-126, plan and view; Salter enlargements or enhancements or our Fortifications in Ireland 1485 to 1945, 2004, 3, 95) big houses. We visited one, Nolan’s London, The Collins Press. Ballinafad, a small military castle of 1590 or McGarry, James P., 1980: Collooney, 1610 (Waterman 1961, 270-272; ACOS 2002, Castle in Inishcrone, on the Collooney, McGarry. 236; Salter 2004, 95); testing followed by Ballymote Heritage Group outing in MacLysaght, Edward, 1967: "Seventeenth monitoring did not establish any archaeology 2004; some years ago we visited Century Hearth Money Rolls with full on the site for the National Field Studies Glinsk, Co. Galway, a roofless but transcript relating to County Sligo", Centre, nor of the ‘great fortifications’ Annelecta Hibernica, No. 24. referred to by Downing Ó Muraíle 2002, 242, otherwise almost complete fortified MacLysaght, Edward, 1969: Irish Life in the #43). house. The superbly reconstructed Seventeenth Century, Shannon, IUP reprint. Ballincar (= Cregg) (Waterman 1961, 273- 17th century Parke’s, or Newtown, McTernan, John C., 1994: Worthies of Sligo, 274: Craig 1986, 133; Salter 2004, 96-97). Profiles of Eminent Sligonians of Other Days, Carrownanty, alterations to parts of Ballymote Castle on the Sligo to Dromahaire is Sligo, Avena. castle, (Egan et al. 2005, 463-464). just inside the Leitrim border. O’Brien, Patrick E., and Timoney, Martin A., Castlebaldwin (Waterman 1961, 272-274; Houses of this period have distinctive 2002: Sligo’s de Burgo Castle of 1310: An Reconstruction drawing by Leask in diagonally positioned chimneys as to Addendum", in Timoney, ed., 195-198. MacLysaght 1969, 96; Craig 1976, 56 (plan); O’Conor, Kieran Denis, 2002: "Sligo Castle", ACOS 2002, 272; Salter 2004, 98; Egan et al. be seen at Villier’s castle in in Timoney, ed., 2002, 183-192. 2005, 481-482) Dromahaire. Alterations to parts of O'Dowd, Mary, 1991: Power, Politics and Castletown O’Dowd, Cottlestown (Salter the Cistercian Abbey in Boyle are of Land: Early Modern Sligo, 1568-1688, 2004, 98) Belfast, Institute of Irish Studies. Collooney, Bellamont House, (Timoney, this this period. Ó Muraíle, Nollaig, 2002: "Downing’s article; Egan et al., 482) Description of County Sligo, c. 1684", in Derroon (Egan et al. 2005, 483). 17TH CENTURY FORTIFIED Timoney, ed., 2002, 231-242. Inishcrone (Waterman 1961, 272; Salter 2004, 100-101), See aerial photo. HOUSES AND CASTLES IN O’Rorke, Terrence, 1878: Ballisodare and Kilvarnet, Dublin, Duffy. Kilglass, NE of Inishcrone. SLIGO O’Rorke, Terrence, 1889: History of Sligo, Kingsborough (= Ballindoon) (Egan et al. Arising from Dudley Waterman’s Town and County, Dublin, Duffy, Two Vols. 2005, 483). basic but most useful 1961 study of Salter, Mike, 2004: The Castles of Connacht, Moygara, perhaps, (Egan et al. 2005, 477- Malvern, Folly. 479; Salter 2004, 3, 100). the 17th century fortified houses and Timoney, Martin A., 2001: "Collooney, Co. Markree, incorporated in the main building castles in Sligo the writer has a Sligo", Excavations Bulletin 2000, Bray, (Egan et al. 2005, 483). Wordwell, 369, Appendix 1. Sligo town, Thomas Phillip’s Prospect of certain interest in these buildings, Sligo, 1685, shows some buildings with 17th particularly those in Sligo, but also Timoney, Martin A., ed., 2002: A Celebration of Sligo, First Essays for Sligo Field Club, century chimneys (O’Conor, 2002, 187, 188, those in Leitrim, Mayo and Sligo, Sligo Field Club. (= ACOS). figs. 1 & 2; O’Brien and Timoney 2002, 196, Roscommon. The work of Maurice Waterman, Dudley, 1961: "Some Irish fig. 1). Streamstown, Achonry (Egan et al. 2005, 483- Craig (1976; 1982) added to our Seventeenth-century Houses and their 484). Architectural Ancestry", In Jope, E.M., ed., Tanrego, near the shore of Ballisodare Bay knowledge of buildings of this Essays in Building History, London. period. Downing’s description of Co. (Salter 2004, 102). Wood-Martin, W.G., 1889: The History of Tanseyfort (= Cooperhill); recent excavations Sligo towards the end of the 17th Sligo, County and Town, from the Accession of by Charles Orser (Egan et al. 2005, 482-483). century was recently edited by Ó James I to the Revolution of 1688, Dublin, Templehouse, part of the complex at the lake, Reprint, Sligo, 1990, Dodd's Antiquarian (Egan et al. 2005, 465-466, 484; Salter 2004, Muraíle (2002) and O’Dowd (1991) Books. gives an authoritative analysis of the 102) period based on her PhD thesis. Appendix II Two appendices, a list of 17th Houses in The Hearth Money Rolls of Co. Sligo for 1662 for which there were more than one hearth. century buildings in Sligo and a list of Hearth Money Roll For Co. Sligo for 1662 NLI MS. 2165 the occupied bigger buildings of that –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Surname Christian No. Parish Townland Spelling Notes period as suggested by the 1662 Name –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Hearth Money Roll, may encourage Brown Robert, clerk 2 Easky Lissaghan ? Lissaghan further research6. Collis Charles 2 Drumcliff Cloonderry ? Cloodelrare Dodwell George 2 Drumard Tanrego Tonrego Drumond William of 2 Kilglass t.n.g. ------Acknowledgements Skreen I acknowledge the help of Moira Fallon, Erwing John 2 Drumard Tanrego Tonrego "? = Erwin James McGarry Ll. B., Aodhán O'Higgins, Harloe Thomas 2 Drumrat t.n.g. ------Aidan Mannion, Mary B. Timoney, John Hart Thomas 2 Kilshalvy t.n.g. ------O'Hara, Jude Gilligan, Cecil Haire, John Howse Timothy 2 Cloonoghil Bunnanadan Bunadane McTernan, Donald Murphy and Dr. Kieran D. Hughed Henry 2 Aghanagh Ballinafad Ballanafadda O'Connor in trying to establish just where was King Francis 2 Emlaghfad Rathdooneybeg Kerdonnibegge ? Coote's castle of 1655 and just what is the Nicholson John 2 Castleconnor ------Stewanisky Sleanisky in S&D structure at Bellamont House. Paul Kerrigan Ormsby William 2 Easky Rathlee Rathlee Soden Thomas 2 Ahamlish Grange Grainge lent me his copy of Salter’s Castles of Watts Capt. 2 Killaspugbrone Scarden Scardane Connacht at the GSIHS conference in Sligo in Wilkinson John 2 Kilmacowen Carrowkeel Carrowkill May 2005. Cooper Edward 3 Ballysadare Rathgran Rathgrany Gore Francis, Sir 3 Drumcliff Finned Curt & Fuid 6 Stewanisky or Sleanisky in the Books of Survey and Park Robert, Capt. 4 Sligo town SLIGO ------Check Phillips Distribution is probably Gleneaskey, a valley SW of Collooney Richard, Lord 10 Ballysadare Rathgran Rathgrany Dromore West. Baron of –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– 26 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Swinford Mercy Order 150th Anniversary

Sr Phil Clancy

WHEN the Sisters of Mercy arrived Clarence of Ballisodare). Sr was principal of the Junior School. in Swinford on June 5th 1855, six Calasanctius Cassidy was on loan In the early 1990s the Boys’ years had elapsed since the great from the Convent of Mercy in Tralee National School was amalgamated social catastrophe of the nineteenth and returned there. with this school and on September century had hit the country. This was The sisters first took up residence 21st 1992 Sr Regina Lydon became the 1847 – 1849 great famine. The in Castle Lodge, which was on part of principal of the new school. She was parish priest of Swinford, Fr Bernard the site now occupied by the Sisters the last sister to serve in primary Durkin, was authorised by Bishop of St John of God. Within a week they education in Ballymote. When she Durkin of Achonry to erect a convent began their works of mercy. retired in June 2003 she was in his parish. This was a district in succeeded by Dolores Taheny. which distress was always severe. PRIMARY EDUCATION It was not until June 1855 that Fr The Girls’ Primary School at that SECONDARY EDUCATION Durkin got a group of sisters to time was operated by Mrs Kelly, In 1942 a new secondary school occupy the new convent. On June 5th assisted by Mrs O’Dowd. Both it and was opened by Sr de Sales Gould, of that year, Sr Aloysius Martyn and Marcella Daly’s Infant School were following consultation with Miss Sr de Sales Coppinger came from the conducted in two buildings where the Rose Gonley who up to then had a Convent of Mercy in Tuam to set up a Loftus Hall now stands. school on the Keash Road. The first foundation in Swinford. In the beginning the sisters pupils were enrolled on September They set about helping the poor conducted a private school in Castle 14th 1942. The staff were Sr Frances and set up primary and post-primary Lodge. Srs Margaret Mary and Keating, Sr Ursula Flannery, and schools. Later they were involved in Patricia taught the literary subjects, Rose Gonly. Miss Sadie King joined health services. They worked in the Sr Vincent taught instrumental and the staff in 1944. old Workhouse and later in the vocal music, and Sr Calasanctius held In 1955, in response to the need for District and Fever hospitals. Art classes. On Sundays the sisters secondary education for boys, the Many foundations were started gave religious instruction in the school became the first co- from Swinford. The foundress Sr parish church where the classes were educational school in Connacht. No Aloysius Martyn, Sr de Sales Dooley suitably graded. In the afternoon they Government grants were available and Sr Liguori O’Hara founded the attended to the sick poor in the then, so the Sisters of Mercy out of first convent in Bendigo, Diocese of neighbourhood. their own resources built a new Sandhurst, Australia, in 1875. From In 1904 the Primary School was school containing five classrooms, a there they set up another foundation taken over by the sisters from domestic science kitchen, and in Benalla, Australia, and yet another Marcella Daly. cloakrooms. The new school, in Latrobe, Tasmania, in 1892. They While Mother Eden Casey was "Coláiste Muire", was blessed and were accompanied to Australia by the there Canon Loftus died and was officially opened by Bishop James curate in Swinford Fr Owen Davey, replaced by Canon Connington. Fergus on September 12th 1957. The who was a native of Ballymote. Shortly after his arrival, Earlsfield principal was Sr Patrick Cawley. The House, property of the Gethins staff were Sr Assumpta Brehony, Sr COMING TO BALLYMOTE family, was put up for sale. It was Regina Lydon, Sr Albeus O’Halloran, The next foundation after the purchased by the new parish priest as and Mrs Nora McNulty. Australian ones was in Ballymote, Co a parochial residence. Later he Sr Veronica Cassidy succeeded Sr Sligo. In 1902 Rev Canon Loftus, offered it to the Sisters of Mercy as a Patrick Cawley in 1965 and she parish priest of Ballymote, asked Rev convent. The sisters bought it for supervised the building of a large and Mother Evangelist McCarthy if she £2000 and gave their residence in fully equipped science laboratory in would send sisters from Swinford to Castle Lodge to the parish priest. 1967. This was the only grant-aided Ballymote. Four sisters were chosen Canon B. Quinn succeeded Canon building up to that time. During Sr for this new foundation: Srs Margaret Connington and he was responsible Angela O’Grady’s time as principal Mary Daly, Vincent Ahearne, Patricia for the erection of the primary school Woodwork and Technical Drawing Moylan and Calasanctius Cassidy. on Pearse Road. It was reconstructed were introduced. Sr Margaret Mary was sister of and extended by Monsignor P.J. Sr Colette Kilcoyne became Marcella Daly who was then in Roughneen in 1951. Sr Agnes principal in 1980. With Sr Attracta charge of the Infant School in O’Grady was principal of the Senior Shiels, Mother General of the Ballymote (later she became Mrs School there, and Sr Gabriel Kelly diocese, she opened negotiations with 27 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 the Department of Education for Mullen, Kathleen, Josephine and donkey and cart – there were few cars funding for a further extension. After Attracta Shiels, Ben Chambers, in those days, and the driver was John five years permission was obtained Colette Kilcoyne, Margaret Killoran, McGettrick who lived then in the for a quarter-million pound building. Sheila Molloy, Christina Scanlon RIP, convent gate lodge. It was seen through to a successful Bridie Reynolds RIP, Berchmans Sr Brendan retired in the 1960s and conclusion by the untiring efforts of Scully RIP, Margaret Mary Daly RIP with this came the end of an era. No Sr Veronica Cassidy, then Mother and Rose O’Dowd RIP. Last but by sister was available to replace her so General, and of Sr Margaret Killoran no means last Sr Loreto Hogge who is the Ballymote laundry was forced to who succeeded Sr Colette Kilcoyne at present the only sister on the staff close. It had given great service for as principal in 1986. of Coláiste Muire. over thirty years and we pay tribute to The turning of the sod for the new all who worked there. building was performed by the then BALLYMOTE LAUNDRY Taoiseach Charles J. Haughey on In the early 1930s the laundry in ANNIVERSARY June 10th 1988. Local fundraising Ballymote came into operation. Sr CELEBRATIONS was undertaken by the friends of Catherine Kennedy, a Kerry woman, All the Mercy Sisters from the Coláiste Muire who raised £65 000. started it and ran it with the assistance diocese of Achonry enjoyed a great Including the gymnasium, the cost to of two local girls. This was a public week-end of celebration to mark the the Sisters of Mercy was close to laundry which served the people of 150th anniversary of their arrival in £300 000, a lot of money at that time. Ballymote and of the locality. Swinford. The Band of the Gárda The new extension was opened on Laundry was also done for the parish Siochána entertained all on Friday March 4th 1991 by the then Minister church, the Passionist Fathers in night June 10th. for Education, Mrs Mary O’Rourke. Cloonamahon, and the Sisters of A Mass of Thanksgiving was Mercy in Collooney and Ballisodare. celebrated by Canon Michael Joyce, SISTERS FROM BALLYMOTE All modern machinery was used. parish priest of Swinford, on The Sisters of Mercy invested a lot Sr Catherine was succeeded by Sr Saturday the 11th. The celebrations of resources in Ballymote, but were Brendan Sunney, a native of continued in the Gateway Hotel, well repaid. Ballymote gave many Annabeg, Collooney. She carried on a Swinford, and in Julien’s in Midfield. fine women to the Mercy Order: Srs very efficient business there with her Great credit is due to the people of Attracta Kilcawley, Rosarii Cryan, co-worker Joaney Brennan and other Swinford for making this such a Assumpta Brehony, Veronica helpers. memorable occasion for the Mercy Cassidy, Emmanuel Coen, Vianney The means of transport was a Sisters.

Mercy Sisters in Swinford at their 150th Anniversary Celebration. Front Row (L-R) Srs Veronica Cassidy, Bernadette O’Grady, Maureen Lally, Kathleen Durkin, Agnes O’Grady, Phyl Clancy, Agatha Durkin. Middle Row: Srs Ethna O’Grady, Evelyn McDonell, Phyllis Kilcoyne, Mary Leavy, Frances McNicholas, Marie Celine O’Halloran, Pascale McMorland. Back Row: Srs Margaret McGinnity, Vianney Mullen, Mairéad Murray. 28 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Aghanagh Church of Ireland 150th Anniversary 1855-2005

Kathleen Fairbanks

THIS YEAR is the 150th Anniversary on the east by the High road 1844: "School house in Hollybrook of Aghanagh Church of Ireland, between Boyle and Sligo and on licensed for Public Worship"). Ballinafad, Co Sligo, in the diocese of the West by the field commonly It was when the potato crop failed Elphin, Barony of Tirrerrill, Province called the Cave field. All situated in the above-mentioned field that an of Connaught, situated near the in the Parish of Aghanagh, County area was taken and walled off in shores of Lough Arrow just off the of Sligo and Diocese of Elphin. preparation for building. The church N4 motorway. Signed: John Maguire - Chairman, was to be a limestone Gothic design In the year 1845 when the great John Ffolliott and K. D. Lloyd - by James Welland, Architect. The famine took over this island of ours it Churchwardens. drawings are in the R.C.B. Library was the case that the old church on Parishioners Present: Edward dated December 1850. It is said the the shores of Lough Arrow was Fairbanks, John White, John Knott, stone and lime used came from the almost in ruins and unfit for church Richard Lillie, Richard Tonacliffe, local quarries. The masons carried out services. And it was inconveniently John Walsh, John Ferguson, all work on the site, working during situated. William Fairbanks, Thomas Bell daylight using horses for transport and William Craig. and labour would have been local From Vestry meeting notes: A giving employment. Water was Vestry meeting was called for the The funding for this project came obtained from wells and the lake Parish of Aghanagh, within the from the Ffolliott family of nearby nearby. Some highly skilled labour Union of Boyle. It took place in the Hollybrook Estate (there is no record was obtained, usually specialists from schoolhouse in Hollybrook estate of any fundraising for same). Church Europe. on the 11th August 1845 by kind Services took place in the The new church was consecrated permission of the Ffolliott family. schoolhouse on the Estate during the on September 28th 1855 by the Lord The chairman was Rev John building progress, which could be Bishop of Kilmore, the Right Rev Maguire, Vicar of Boyle Union. termed a "Famine Project". The vicar Marcus Beresford, afterwards Result: That the site of the church came from Boyle by pony and trap Archbishop of Armagh. There was a of this parish be transferred to the and later by bicycle until the motor large attendance and the Rev F Hund town land of Culsheegary-more to car arrived. The parishioners walked of Boyle preached a very impressive a field now in the possession of or some had sidecars, pony and trap. sermon. Edward Fairbanks commonly There were large congregations in There was a single aisle with the called the Well field, bounded on 1855-1900: staff and workmen from pulpit on the right hand side. The font the north by the townland of the estate and their families attended was just outside the communion rails, Knockroe, on the south by the field and families were large then. (Quote the communion table was in the commonly called the Garden field, from ECCLES JOURNAL April sanctuary and the vestry was off to

Ruins of original Aghanagh Church 29 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 the right with a back entrance door. The bell is still used on Sundays to fought a good fight, and finished his course, and kept the faith, he died July 31 1856, it is There was a central furnace for "call for worship". According to local humbly and confidently believed in the grace heating using coal, with stone steps to tradition, when this bell was erected of our Lord Jesus Christ and the love of God it. The sexton attended to the fire. in the belfry it became apparent there and the communion of the Holy Ghost. Aged 35 years. "To me to live is Christ, and to die is Electricity came in 1965. was a mix-up: the Roman Catholic gain". "Oh death where is thy sting? Oh grave The main entrance porch has its Church had also ordered a bell and where is thy victory? Thanks be to God, original door with 50 studs. Also the each church got the other’s bell by which giveth us the victory through our Lord original windows are there, with mistake. Jesus Christ." leaded diamond glass and stone The bible was a copy of the sacred To the memory of Arthur Bagnall Henry of this parish. Sergt, Royal Irish Rifles who gave frames Victorian style. The late Mrs scriptures presented to Major John his life for his country near Ypres in France Ffolliott requested no stained glass Ffolliott, Hollybrook, and dated May 17th August 1917. This tablet is erected by his windows - "let the light shine in". 1870. It was a gift from the neighbours and friends in token of their gratitude and respect. St. John XV.13 Floors were flagstone, later parishioners of Aughanagh church The handrail is in memory of William F Craig, carpeted. who were mostly part time tenant died 1999. The pews are the original oak ones, farmers. The bible was returned to the stained and varnished, as also are the church in 1949. pulpit, reading desk and communion The graveyard surrounding the rails and chairs. church has been in use since the The church silver is dated 1855. church was built. The brass lectern is in memory of The original double gates at the Rev Francis Clarke MD, LLD, main entrance still stand. Archdeacon of Elphin, dedicated by Services: Every Sunday at 12 noon. his friends and parishioners of Aghanagh 1883-1910. The brass Commemorative Tablets book stand on the communion table is Commemorative dedications on tablets on the in memory of Emma and William church walls inside include the following: White 1947. To the beloved and honoured memory of John The organ was also donated by the Ffolliot only son of John Ffolliot and his wife Maria Lucie Stepney born Nov 21 1824, died Ffolliott family. It was used up to Dec 27 1894. And to his dearly loved wife 1974 when recordings took over. Ms Grace Charlotte Philips who died 1909, and Elsie Fairbanks was the last organist. their daughters Anna died 1889, Agnes died 1911. All of Hollybrook. The 1965 new communion table Here we have no continuing city but we seek was designed and made by Col. one to come. Precious in the sight of the Lord Sinclair. is the death of his saints. In memory of the A stone seat outside the church is a Rev. Christopher Adamson formerly curate of Boyle, and labouring more especially in the memorial to Miss Agnes Ffolliot, Aghanagh district, where he enjoyed the high born 7/9/1859 died 1911. She was a privilege of ministering the gospel and governess to the royal house of sacraments of Christ. And was an example of the believers in word, in conversation, in Romania and was also a painter. charity, in spirit, in faith, in purity. Having

Aghanagh Parish Church today 30 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Roger Chambers Walker, Sligo Antiquary

Martin A. Timoney

ROGER CHAMBERS WALKER, worked the Western Circuit from of Petrie which hung at Rathcarrick MRIA, QC, 1806-1854, of 1848 until 1854. until at least c. 1898 but perhaps until Rathcarrick, Knocknarea, parish of In 1837 he had a duel at Bomore April 1938 when it was auctioned at Kilaspugbrone, Co. Sligo, was a with Ramsay who had appeared on Rathcarrick for £8.2.6. landholder, farmer and landlord, the opposite side in a court case. He Petrie’s letter of 12 August 1837 barrister and the Sligo antiquary of was election agent for the from Rathcarrick to Thomas Larcom the early 19th century. The only son Conservatives, a Trustee of the local at the Ordnance Survey details the of James Walker of Rathcarrick, d. Primrose Grange Erasmus Smith Carrowmore passage tomb cemetery 1853, Solicitor, and Letitia Johnstone school and worked towards and records the results of Walker’s of Co. Fermanagh, d. 1835, who had establishing a railway from Sligo to digging into several tombs in married in May 1793, he was born on Enniskillen. previous years; Wood-Martin used 29 October 1806. Two sisters who The Walker family bought this in the 1880s when publishing were born before 1811, were Jane, Rathcarrick in 1795, building a house Carrowmore. Walker’s digging who married Meredith of before 1814 and later ornamenting methods were not the best and Cloonamahan in 1819, and Letitia, the demesne with walks, gardens and stopped under Petrie’s influence. He who married Chambers of Cloverhill. folly monuments (passage tomb, had designs on opening Misgaún James, his father, was the son of tower, gothic doorway; the ringfort in Maédbh on Knocknarea. In 1842 he Michael Walker of Sligo town and the garden is genuine though altered provided details of Kilaspugbrone Ann Gilmore; he was Agent to the for a tennis court). A larger two- and Aghanagh churches for Petrie Palmerston North Sligo, Ormsby storey east front was added in 1873 and, despite his linguistic Cummeen and de Butt Oakfield by James Rawson Carroll; the house, background, he dabbled in Irish estates. The coat-of-arms with motto, illustrated in McTernan (1990, 66), place-names and collected some old Passant Cressant En Honeur, is was restored by 1996. The family Irish tunes; Petrie collected The illustrated in McTernan (1990, 56). held property in Kilaspugbrone Silken Article from Biddy Monaghan Roger married Amy Eliza Hester parish, Church Island in Lough Gill, who had been reared at Rathcarrick. Cramer-Roberts, daughter of the Rev. Tullyvellia in Leyny barony and in Walker was elected MRIA on 24 John Cramer-Roberts of Sallymount, Sligo and Dublin. June 1833. He never published Newbridge, Co. Kildare, in June Walker lived in an area of many though he did keep a diary, from 1838; she was five years his elder. monuments including Knocknarea, which Wood-Martin published They honeymooned in Wicklow in Carrowmore and Cloverhill. Many extracts in 1895. He had the June and, after the Circuit, in things could have inspired his interest Belgium, Germany and Holland. She in antiquities, his father was not an had property connections with the antiquary. He was aware of the diary barony of Barretts, Co. Cork. Their of Gabriel Beranger’s tour through surviving children were Roger Connaught in 1779; the Sligo part of Cramer, John Francis and Henrietta. that tour was arranged by Lewis Irwin He was educated by Mr Jenkins of Tanrego, a fellow Sligo landlord. and entered TCD 5 July 1821, He was a contemporary of Sir Samuel obtaining his B.A. in 1826 and M.A. Fergusson at TCD. By summer 1828 in 1832. He entered King's Inns, a life-long family friendship with Dublin, in 1825 as a barrister and George Petrie, the Father of Irish finished his studies at King's Inns, Archaeology, had begun; this was the Dublin, 1829, and Gray's Inn, year that Petrie became a Member of London, 1827. He was admitted to the Royal Irish Academy. They were Connaught Bar 1 in July 1830. on Knocknarea before December He practised as a barrister from 1828 and together they had already 1834 until 1849, living at 2, Granby seen a considerable number of Sligo Row, Dublin, from 1834 until 1851 antiquities; nine of Walker’s letters to and at 3, Gardiner's Row from 1853 Petrie are in the National Library of until 1854; his widow lived there for Ireland. Petrie's sketch of Benbulben The Crest and Coat of Arms of Roger a while. He became a Queen's from Rathcarrick dates to about 1836. Chambers Walker, from a rent receipt Counsel on 7 February 1849, and In 1837 Walker paid £5 for a portrait book. 31 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

Carrowmore passage tomb cemetery Rathcarrick, were there in 1898. References Ordnance survey letters (1836-1837); Roger mapped and did fieldwork for Petrie Items from Rathcarrick were or are in Chambers Walker, Account book, 1836-1845, as early as 1828. His manuscript Alnwick, NMI, New York Ms., Sligo Library Local Studies Archive; Account Book is very detailed on Metropolitan museum, Limerick W.G. Wood-Martin, The rude stone monuments of Ireland: Sligo and the island of spendings on family, health, house, Hunt Museum and the British Achill (1888); W.G. Wood-Martin, Pagan travel, antiquities, books, etc., from Museum. Ireland (1895); Owen Tweedy, The Dublin 1836 to 1845. Walker, the leading Sligo antiquary Tweedys (1956); Finlay Tower Kitchin, ‘The Carrowmore megalithic cemetery, Co. Sligo’, He was a passionate collector of of the early 19th century, died on 7 Proceedings Prehistoric Society, 49, (1983), Irish antiquities, spending September 1854, and was buried less 151-175; John C. McTernan, At the foot of considerable sums on metal, stone than a mile from Rathcarrick at St. Knocknarea: a chronicle of Coolera in bygone days (1993); Stefan Bergh,: and cloth antiquities from all over the Anne's, Strandhill, where there is a Landscape of the monuments (1995); Martin country. The objects were poorly baptismal font in his memory. He A. Timoney ‘Recently discovered high cross documented and never exhibited in may have been in ill health for a year at Drumcliff, Co. Sligo’, Corran Herald, 32, (1999-2000), 41-43; Aideen M. Ireland, public but were displayed at or so but it is locally known that he ‘Roger Chambers Walker: A Sligo Rathcarrick. Walker financially died soon after a heart attack after a antiquarian’, J. Irish Archaeology, 11, (2002), supported the RIA museum. The confrontation with a wandering friar 147-187; Martin A. Timoney and Patrick Heraughty, ‘Sligo Antiquarian Society, 1945- Walker family insisted on returning while being with workers erecting a 1946, and Sligo Field Club, 1946-1947 and bones to the Kilaspugbrone court boundary to his land, which has never 1954-2002’, in Martin A. Timoney, ed., A tomb in 1842, but not on returning the been finished, and establishing a new celebration of Sligo, first essays in honour of Sligo Field Club (2002), 275. cross that he stole from Drumcliff. avenue. He had not made a will; his Personal information: Self, Aodhán Some antiquities were given to widow, Amy, became his executor O’Higgins, Derry O’Connell. Walker in the expectation that it was and his assets were £3,000 including This is the text presented on the life of Roger for national and patriotic purposes. over one thousand five hundred acres; Chambers Walker to The Dictionary of Irish In 1851 Walker, at the age of forty- in 1858 the house was valued at Biography being prepared by The Royal Irish five, sold his substantial varied and twenty-eight pounds. Amy died Academy to be published in six volumes in 2006. It will detail the careers of 9,000 valuable private collection for £300 suddenly, aged seventy-four, in the prominent men and women born in Ireland through Edward Clibborn, curator of Kensington area of London, in May and the noteworthy Irish careers of those born the RIA museum, and Albert Way, to 1875; she was buried at St. Anne’s. outside of Ireland, all of whom are dead. Some entries are being written by ‘in house’ Algernon the 4th Duke of The last male Walker, John Walter, Dictionary staff while others are by over 500 Northumberland at Alnwick Castle; the fourth generation of Walkers to external contributors. Dr. James Quinn is the Walker was unsure of the destination. live at Rathcarrick, died in 1950, Executive Editor and Mr. James McGuire is the Managing Editor. A number of Sligo Algernon donated some material back having auctioned off most of the people, among them Benson, O’Rorke, to the RIA in 1852 and in 1990 our contents of Rathcarrick in 1938 for a Walker and Wood-Martin, are included. National Museum purchased the gold total of £142.0.6. The last female objects at auction from Alnwick. descendants in the Walker line, Some antiquities, either the daughters of Marian McManus who remains of Walker's collection or was a daughter of John Francis, were items which later reached living in Glasgow in the 1980s.

At the unveiling of the memorial plaque to Tom McGettrick beside Ballymote Castle, on Saturday September 18th 2004. In English the inscription reads: In memory of Tom McGettrick 1912 – 2003, teacher – historian – antiquary – sportsman, thespian – neighbour and friend to all, a true son of Ballymote. –Photo courtesy Eileen Tighe 32 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Significance of the Brother Walfrid Monument in the 21st Century

John Perry TD IT IS NOT necessary for me to prizes What can be shared outline the life of Brother Walfrid. And build monuments - What can be developed It is very well documented Bafta awards What can be done by one person’s And it is a life that echoes, resounds, Eurovision awards energy and commitment and lives on here today... through this Music awards By one person’s belief in a better way, statue and through his legacy. Oscar awards and a more lasting result. TV awards This statue is for every young person, But it is necessary for me to tell you Celebrity awards parent, worker, carer, helper, this Property awards volunteer and player here today Brother Walfrid was a Marist Brother Finance awards from Ballymote, County Sligo, and It is for you all, because it represents Computer awards - even though he may have emigrated Possibilities to Scotland as a young man Given and gone in the time allotted, The possibilities of what can be done, Today he is rightfully back with us in Awards of very little significance in of what can be achieved, the land of his birth. changing the lives of those who get Because it represents Hope them, or indeed of those who just The possibilities and hope that go Through the Celtic Football Club he look on in awe and wonder. beyond politics money and material made an outstanding and life long The hope that concentrates on the contribution to the lives of young We are also very committed to the human being and how people, building of Young people can best be served Young people who existed in the Ugly monuments And how they can have and hold worst of circumstances. Steel Spires in the middle of the city better and healthier lives It was, and is, the kind of contribution Iron circles outside Banks that finds its heartbeat in all that is Brass circles outside Insurance ALL OF THE OTHER PRIZES AND best, and good, in the lives and the Companies OSCARS HAVE THEIR EYE ON development of the young. . Pewter circles outside TV stations THE MONEY, ON THE MAIN Giant forms outside Airports CHANCE, THE CONTRIBUTION OF HOPE Monuments all signifying nothing Brother Walfrid’s eye was on Monuments to profit and material knowing that through the Football He leaves a legacy of that hope in success Club lives could be changed for the being one of the Founders of the Monuments understood by no one better and forever Celtic Football Club, a Club that Monuments reminding us of nothing And that they can continue to change became the driving force of life Monuments inspiring to do nothing, as the Club and Football remains sustenance for or go nowhere. evident and alive today AND HE DID The Poor IT ALL VOLUNTARILY The Marginalized But this statue of Brother Walfrid has The immigrant a very different Consciousness I SUPPOSE BECAUSE HE The jobless It has a very different reason for its UNDERSTOOD THAT IT IS ONLY The hungry existence. WHEN WE GIVE THAT WE GET. Those without hope Rooted into our soil here in Sligo That is his real life story Those without adequate education We are privileged to be part of his That is the real statue Those without use achievement That is why it will, although a statue, Those without relevance We are privileged to be able to share always breathe. Those without power in his achievement And most important ... the young. And we are privileged to be able to reflect off his achievement and • John Perry TD is Chairman of What he created for the young is his We are privileged to be able to learn Ballymote Enterprise Company. He is most important legacy from it. also Fine Gael Spokesperson for the And indeed the real reason we are Marine. The Brother Walfrid here to day This statue is a living force of what memorial is in the Town Park, We are a world that loves to give out can be achieved Ballymote.

33 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Perth Irish honour Planning Ballymote man a A BALLYMOTE man who has always enjoyed getting involved in chalked up more than three decades local groups and organisations. of hard work on behalf of Perth’s “It is very important to us to feel Church Irish community is the latest worthy part of a community and to contribute recipient of the prestigious Brendan to that community,” he added. From a 10/02/1854 letter written Award. Tom Kearns from Emlaghfad, A talented singer, Tom is president by the Bishop of Achonry, Most Ballymote, was presented with the of Ceoltas in Perth and attends the Rev Dr Durcan, to the parish weekly Monday night meetings. award at a special function in Perth’s priest of Ballymote. Irish Club on Monday April 19, 2004. “We have great crowds coming The Brendan Award is awarded along every Monday,” he enthused. annually by the Australian-Irish “As well as the music, we have set Dear Mr Tighe, Heritage Association (AIHA) to an dancing and Irish language classes. I am very happy to learn that individual who has made “an “There is a great deal of interest in you and your worthy parishioners outstanding contribution to the cause it and it is growing all the time.” have resolved to commence in of Australia’s Irish heritage”. The GAA is also one of Tom’s first loves. He served as president of the good earnest to rebuild your With a history of activism in the chapel. It is highly creditable to GAA, Ceoltas, St Vincent de Paul and GAA in Western Australia and was the Claddadh Association, Tom the first president of the GAA for the the religious and generous people Kearns admitted he’s kept very busy. whole of Australia in 1974. of Ballymote to express such Tom and wife Kathleen are also “I’m retired now but I often wonder willingness to co-operate with you involved in welfare work. They are how I ever found the time to work,” both volunteers with the St Vincent in so laudable an undertaking. he joked. de Paul group and Tom is a founding Indeed it was a matter of “I’m delighted with the award, it’s member of Claddagh, the welfare absolute necessity that you should a great honour and a great surprise.” association for the local Irish do something during the present The Keams family came to community. year to improve the state of the Australia 34 years ago on the £10 And with six children and nine scheme intending to give it two years. grandchildren, even spare time is chapel, for the roof is evidently so However, like many Irish before and action-packed. bad and so unsafe that you could since, they never left. “I don’t mind at all,” Tom laughed. not without imminent danger to “We settled in Fremantle and fell in “Keeping busy keeps you young.” the lives of the people let it remain love with the place,” Tom explained. The AIHA’s new president, Joe “Of course, we go back to Ireland for Crozier, said Tom Kearns was a very for another winter in its present regular visits but we love the worthy recipient of the award and state. Australian way of life. thanked him for all his efforts on I have therefore very great “My wife Kathleen and I have behalf of the Irish community. pleasure in giving my approbation and encouragement to the good work in which you are engaged, and I will also give my subscription towards it although being engaged myself in a similar undertaking – that of erecting a cathedral church in Ballaghaderrin - I will not be able to contribute so liberally as I would otherwise be disposed to do. Wishing you every success and hoping I will have the gratification of seeing a new church in (rest illegible)

Tom Kearns from Fremantle was presented with the 2004 Brendan Award for his Supplied by Padraig Doddy work in Perth’s Irish community. He is pictured with his wife, Kathleen. 34 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Ballymote Corn Mill (Gorman’s Mill)

Jim Kielty IN 1795 a corn mill was built by With the advent of the railway, MEN EMPLOYED 1925-1940 Robert Gorman at Keenaghan, three men with horses and carts were Three Cawley brothers: Michael, Ballymote. It was powered by water employed to bring the produce of the Tom, Jakes brought from Ballinascarrow lake. mill to the station and carry Indian Three Gallagher brothers: Hugh, Tom, Pat Almost sixty years later in corn on the return journey. In 1927-28 Two Meehans: Jim and son Michael December 1854 the mill was a cable car system on pylons was Two Carrs: Pat, John accidentally burned and completely constructed to connect the mill with a One Cunnane: Frank destroyed. It was later rebuilt on the specially built siding and store beside Two Flannagans: John and Son same ground by the Gormans and the station. Jim Reynolds, equipped with the most up to date After being operated continuously M Morrison machinery of the time. by several generations of Gormans, Paddy Killoran In the 1920s an engineer named In the early 1920s it was powered the mill was once again destroyed by Abernathy was employed and the last in dry seasons by a crude diesel an accidental fire in October 1941. engineer to work there was John engine which also generated 110 volt This was the end of milling in Elders. Richard Russell (Dickie) was electricity for the mill. Ballymote. an office clerk.

Ballymote Cornmill in early 1900s 35 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Sir John Benson, 1812-1874, Architect and Engineer

Martin A. Timoney

JOHN BENSON, who was born in a Benson by Helen Andrews in The and also Sligo people into one storey thatched cottage in Royal Irish Academy’s Dictionary of recognising him by commemorative Collooney in 1812, designed the Irish Biography to be published in plaques on Bellamont House and Exhibition Hall for the 1853 Dublin 2006. other works of his. Great Exhibition, for which he was It is hoped that this note and initial Knighted. He designed Bellamont or draft list of his works and Works that Sir John Benson was Belmont House and also the Catholic achievements, from various sources, involved in Church of the Assumption beside it in mainly O’Rorke (1878, 125-126), Collooney. He also did many other O’Rorke (1889, II, 530-532), Wood IN SLIGO domestic, civil and ecclesiastical Martin (1892, 130, 153), McGarry Bellamont, alias Belmont, House, works of distinction, mainly in Cork, (1980), McTernan (1994, 16-19) and Collooney where he was successively County Williams (1994, passim), may be of Camphill linen office, Collooney Surveyor and City Engineer. interest to readers of The Corran Collooney St. Paul's Protestant O’Rorke (1878, 125-126; 1889, II, Herald, particularly those in the Church: transepts, groined ceiling 530-532) and McTernan (1994, 16- Collooney area; that it will provoke a and new roof of 1837 19) give details of Benson’s greater awareness of Benson’s Collooney Church of the achievements in a life of 62 years that achievements in his native county, Assumption, 1843 was turned when Edward Joshua and provoke someone into properly Collooney Market Ho., Portico Cooper of Markree recognised his researching and publishing his life Col. Barrett's picturesque cottage ability and sent him off to school in Dublin. There was a life-size portrait of him by the Cork artist Harding in the Athenaeum in Cork. Sir John was a first cousin of Dr. Charles Benson, first President of the College of Surgeons. To the east of the Catholic Church of the Assumption is Belmont House, a house designed by Benson as a retirement home for himself (McGarry 1980, 54) but as he died on 17 October 1874 in London and was buried in Brompton cemetery in that city he never got to live in it. Belmont House is the name that was in current use some years ago. I am not sure of the origins of the name, the earliest mention of which I can find is in a legal document for 1960, but Miss Moira Fallon, the former occupant to whom I am indebted for permission to publish a reduced version of research done on her behalf, is of the opinion that the name is much older. It may have been that Benson used Bellamont House which may be more historically correct. Benson died in London on 17 October 1874, never having the satisfaction of retiring to the house he designed for himself in Collooney. There will be an entry on Sir John Benson House, Collooney. –Photo: Martin A. Timoney 36 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

Dominican Holy Cross, Sligo, Princes St. ‘English’ market of 1845 1862, of the galleria family. George Allen's tasteful little Railway tunnel near Cork Station, Jim McGarry cottage in Collooney two miles long Markree Castle, Concrete vaulting Kent Railway Station on Glanmire of the bedrooms, c. 1830-1832, his Rd. Lr., Tuscan portico design first St. Luke's Ch. Simm's Flour & Corn Mills in St. Patrick's Bridge Collooney St. Patrick’s Catholic Ch., St. Anne's, Strandhill, 1843 Glanmire Rd., 1873, extension Victoria Bridge, now Hyde Bridge, St. Patrick’s Cemetery Glasheen, 1848-1852 1867-1869, twin mini-churches Lisheen, alias Seafield, 1840, St. Vincent's Ch., Sunday's Well, Italianate style 1851. This collapsed in a storm in 1853 IN MAYO Summerhill C. of I. church Ballina Cathedral tower, 1858 Tower of St. Mary's Cathedral Victoria Quay Deep Water Berth AFTER 93 years of stimulating, IN DUBLIN Roads challenging and fulfilled life, The Great Exhibition Hall of 1852. Thirty bridges in total James P (Jim) McGarry died on A composite iron, timber and glass Post with Board of Works April 26th 2005. By profession a building. This temporary building Surveyor of West Riding of Co. lawyer who spent most of his is early in the world series of such Cork, appointed March 1846 working years in Ballymote, he buildings. Engineer to Cork Harbour was also a lover of the arts Commissioners in January 1851 (especially literature), a local IN CORK Surveyor of Co. Cork in 1851 history and folklore enthusiast, a Athenaeum, where the Opera man of strongly held and often House was afterwards cogently articulated opinions, a Benson Bridge across the River References great humanitarian and an McGarry, James P., 1980: Collooney, institution in his own right. Jim Lee Collooney, McGarry. Butter Market, beside Shandon McTernan, John C., 1994: Worthies of Sligo, will be sadly missed by his church, 1849 or 1852. Profiles of Eminent Sligonians of Other Days, relatives, to whom we offer Sligo, Avena. sincere sympathy, and his many Catholic Pro-Cathedral of Cork, O’Rorke, Terrence, 1878: Ballisodare and extension of 1862-1867, massive Kilvarnet, Dublin, Duffy. friends. A frequent contributor to tower, unused designs O’Rorke, Terrence, 1889: History of Sligo, The Corran Herald, he will be Town and County, Duffy, Two Vols., Dublin, missed by its readers too. May he Central Markets, Prince’s St., 1840 Duffy. Chapels in St. Finbar's Williams, Jeremy, 1994: Architecture in rest in eternal peace. Cork waterworks, 1858, Ireland, 1837-1921, Blackrock, Irish Academic Press. Lombardic style Wood-Martin, W.G., 1892: The History of Former North Gate Bridge Sligo, County and Town, from the Close of the Lee Navigation 1871 Revolution of 1688 to the Present Time, Dublin, Hodges Figgis; Reprint, Sligo, 1990, Magistrates Court, Cornmarket St. Dodd's Antiquarian Books.

Bellamont by Benson. –Photo: Martin A. Timoney Supplied by John Doddy 37 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Terence O’Rorke, 1819-1907

Martin A. Timoney TERENCE O’RORKE, 1819-1907, but he lacked Irish. Kilvarnet was published in 1878, PP, DD, VG, Archdeacon, MRIA, Immediately he was sent to the over six hundred copies being sold FRSAI, Archdeacon of Achonry, Irish College in Paris where he spent within a few weeks, it being Professor of Theology in the Irish five years, 1847-1853, rising to the demanded that every house in the College in Paris, was born in position of Professor of Dogmatic parish have one. He was elected a Collooney on May 20th, 1819, the Theology. The intellectual life in Member of the Royal Irish Academy Feast of the Ascension. He was the Paris appealed to him and he to the in 1879; Bishop Reeves was one of son of John O'Rorke, 1791-1874, and leading ecclesiastics and politicians. the nominators. his wife, Winefride McSharry, 1797- During his last three years he was a In July 1870 O'Rorke topped a poll 1876; they had a bakery on the regular Paris correspondent for the with nine votes for coadjutor bishop opposite side of the road to Collooney Baltimore Catholic Mirror. He may of Achonry to his predecessor Patrick Church of the Assumption. He, Terry, have suffered ill health at the end of Durcan. He was a man fitted for the had at least two brothers, John, 1828- his time there. mitre, eminent in theology, eloquence 1901, and ?James and at least two In 1854 O'Rorke was recalled by and intelligence, was a very warm- sisters, all of whom seem to have pre- Patrick Durcan, his predecessor in hearted character, and while his lack deceased him. Collooney and now Bishop of of Irish could be rectified a scurrilous He learned Greek and Latin at a Achonry, to be Parish Priest of the character assassination referred to by small Classical School in united parishes of Ballisodare (or Swords (2004, 34-35), which is not Toberscanavan, south of Collooney, Ballysadare) and Kilvarnet for fifty- accepted locally, stopped the and went on to the Diocesan four years until his death in 1907, appointment. Seminary in Ballaghaderreen. He living all the time in the western half His two-volume History of Sligo, entered Maynooth College in of the house of his brother John next Town and County, was published in September 1840, and was ordained to Collooney church. He was July 1889, reprinted 1986, and sold 17 June 1847. He was a gifted French immediately appointed Master of the for fifteen shillings a set. It had many scholar and a man of classic diction Conference of Achonry Diocese. In drawings by William F. Wakeman, 1864 he achieved a DD and was who had made Drawings of the appointed Examiner for Theological Antiquities of County Sligo for Degrees in the Catholic University. Colonel Edward Cooper, of Markree He was appointed a Canon of the Castle, Collooney. Cathedral Chapter in 1874 and was The sources for this parish by raised to the dignity of Archdeacon parish work on the antiquities, by 1868. history, social history and mythology, He was responsible for Clarence of folklore and the religious history of Ballisodare completing in 1879 the many generations of Sligo, with a building of the spire of Sir John little on nature, were State Papers and Benson’s 1843 Church of the other official documents in Dublin Assumption in Collooney. and in London. He also used Shortly after his appointment to information from fellow clergymen, Collooney he began compiling the but mainly from manuscripts and, history of his native parishes of critically, the work of John Ballisodare and Kilvarnet. He visited O'Donovan, George Petrie and historical monuments, collected oral Charles O'Conor, very little of it traditions and had access to the being taken from printed sources. papers of the O’Haras of His attempts at distinguishing pre- Annaghmore, the Coopers of history from history were not always Markree and the Percevals of successful, thousands of years not Terence O’Rorke Templehouse. Ballysadare and being allowed for in the overall time s 38 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 pan and his references were which is beside the 15th century marble memorial, reflective of late almost non existent. Franciscan Third Order priory. Hiberno-Gothic art, was erected in O’Rorke believed that the first He died in his family home on 18 1911 over his burial place on the volume of Wood-Martin’s History of November 1907, in the 61st year of Epistle side in the Church of the Sligo failed to justify its title and his ministry which had spanned much Assumption, Collooney. The text by wrote his own volumes as a balance of the 19th and the early 20th Bishop Clancy sets out his life and to it, but no ungenerous expression is centuries. In his will of 4 May 1904 the monument has a chalice, an angel used towards either Protestants or he bequeathed his soul to God, almost and two winged cherubs, and agnus landlords as such though some £700 in money, including that for his dei and the motto Beati Mortui Qui in individuals received just comment for funeral expenses, for masses by Domino Moriuntur, Apoc. XIV, 13. their public misbehaviour. At the priests in Achonry and in the Irish dedication of Killasser new church College in Paris, for prayers in nine O'Rorke launched "a tirade on the convents, money for the poor and the ‘pampered clergy’ of the Established education of Protestant and Catholic Church" which was "toppling fast and in his parishes, for an English essay prize in his former Diocesan college, Terence O’Rorke, History, antiquities, and soon to be numbered with all its present state of the parishes of Ballysadare baneful and cursed memories among for investing for Collooney Camphill and Kilvarnet, in the county of Sligo, with notices of the O’Haras, the Coopers, the the very worst things of the past". school, and money for relations. His Percevals, and other local families (1878); His third publication, a 200-page library of 5,000 books was Terrence O’Rorke, The history of Sligo: town and county, (1889, reprint 1986); Terence volume of eleven sermons preached bequeathed to Bishop John Lyster O’Rorke, Occasional sermons on various locally was published in July 1899. with a request that it be alphabetically subjects, (1899); Dr. Shaw, in The Dublin Evening Mail, quoted at end of Sermons; J. Regrettably for the historian, the catalogued; this was at least partly G., "Miniature Memories", The Dublin sermons contain little of historical done in 1926. He gave his house and Journal, June 16, 1887, 143; Irish Monthly, 17 (1889), 445-447; Letters of Terence O’Rorke record, even when dealing with St. piece of land to his nephew James of 10 July [?1895] and 27 July [?1895], Irish Attracta, Patron Saint of Achonry, or O’Rorke. His wealth included Monthly, 36 (1908), 649-651; The will of Terence O’Rorke dated May 1904; Obituary at the laying the first stone of the investments in the Great Northern Sligo Champion, 23 Nov. 1907; Tadhg Church of the Immaculate Railway of Ireland and a Life Kilgannon, Sligo and its surroundings (1926), photo opposite p. 1; John McTernan, Here’s to Conception in Ballymote in 1857 Association of Scotland policy. A their memory, profiles of distinguished Sligonians of bygone days (1977); Jim McGarry, Collooney (1980); Robert Flynn, "Terence O’Rorke (1819-1907) and his History of Sligo", The Corran Herald, 35, (2002-2003), 35-37; Martin A. Timoney and Patrick Heraughty, "Sligo Antiquarian Society, 1945-1946, and Sligo Field Club, 1946-1947 and 1954-2002", in Martin A. Timoney, ed., A celebration of Sligo, first essays in honour of Sligo Field Club, (2002), 276; Liam Swords, A dominant church, the diocese of Achonry, 1818-1960 (2004). Personal information: Jim McGarry, Monsignor Joseph Spelman, Canon John Doherty, Una Tempany, Dr. Patrick Heraughty, Mary B. Timoney, Family Memorial in St. Fechin’s Ballisodare. This is the text presented on the life of Terence O’Rorke to The Dictionary of Irish Biography being prepared by The Royal Irish Academy to be published in six volumes in 2006. It will detail the careers of 9,000 prominent men and women born in Ireland and the noteworthy Irish careers of those born outside of Ireland, all of whom were dead before 2002. Some entries are being written by ‘in house’ Dictionary staff while others are by over 500 external contributors. Dr. James Quinn is the Executive Editor and Mr. James McGuire is the Managing Editor. A number of Sligo people, among them Benson, O’Rorke, Walker and Wood-Martin, are included. Illustration: Terence O’Rorke, 1819-1907, after Kilgannon, Sligo and its Surroundings, Collooney Catholic Church. –Photo: Martin A. Timoney 1926 [XXIV]. 39 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Ballymote Public Houses, from 1910 to the Present FOLLOWING is a list of Ballymote 9. Mark McGann, Mark Henry 4. Morrison’s Hotel, Hannan’s, pubs between 1910 and the present, 10. Nora Rogers Flannery’s, Des Johnson compiled by Jim Kielty, O’Connell 11. Bernard Kelly (retired 1922, 5. James Hannan, Luke Hayden, St. The various establishments are where Masie McGovern lives Michael Perry numbered separately, and the now) 6. Matthew Gallagher (property later successive owners listed after the 12. James Kielty (1910 – 1960, owned by Richard Molloy and number. where Jim Kielty lives now) now by John Lavin) 13. Batty Coughlan, James 7. Davey’s (where Mrs Mulhern now O’Connell Street Gilmartin, Martin T Tighe, Pat lives) 1. J O’Hara, Tom Scully, Des Kielty Egan, John J Kielty, Ted Quigley, 2. Thomas Edward O’Brien, Batty Temple, P Stephens Cawley 14. Carley, Tom Quigley, Kerins 3. J Hannan ("Hide Out") Teeling Street 1. P Coghlan, J Healy, Thomas 4. Tom Killoran, Tommy Walsh, 15. John Farry Tighe, Dennis Tighe Cunningham’s 2. Callaghan’s, Henry Gorman, Tom 5. Peter Henry, J Markey, Frank Hunt, Mattimoe’s McDonagh, John Rogers, John 3. Joe Mullarkey’s, Brian Dwyer’s Doddy Market Street (Lord 4. Begley’s, Kilkenny’s, Scully’s 6. John Berreen (part of J Doddy’s Edward Street) 5. W Lipsett, Mrs Droughton now) 1. Pat Barlow, Jim McGettrick 7. John McDonagh (where JJ Kielty (Donlons reside there now) lives now) 2. Delia Dawson, Tommie Rogers 8. James A Flannagan, JJ Coleman, 3. Miss Phillips, L Hart, Tommie Emmett Street D Brady, White, Glancy, Keenan, Gannon, Quigley, Davey, One pub only, the "Stand Alone", Scanlon, Ross McCarthy owned by Andy Walsh.

Ballinacarrow N.S. 1931 – Front row l/r: J. McLoughlin, M. McGowan, G. Jordan, F. O’Dowd, C. Molloy. Second row: C. Keane, A. Hannan, L. McBrien, B. Brehony, A. Redican, M. Brehony, S. Goulden, E. Williamson. Third row: M. Coleman, M. Goulden, M. Taheny, D. Redican, K. Lang, M. Ryan, M. O’Hara, S. Devaney (head teacher). Fourth row: E. Quigley, S. Gilmartin (teachers), I. Forde, A. Derrig, S. Coleman (S), S. Coleman (J), M. Derrig, B. Henry. –Photo courtesy May Reynolds 40 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 An Aughris-type Enclosure on Knocklane, Co. Sligo

Martin A Timoney, Leo Leydon and Eamon Cody

WHEN looking for an item in our with the slightly domed interior location that is very inaccessible from 'filing system' we often finds measuring 3.50 m by 90 cm. The where seaweed could be collected. unexpected treasures. So also slightly dished fosse is 55 cm wide There is no access to rocks below; occasionally with fieldwork In mid- along the longer sides and 60 cm seaweed would be near the neck of 2004 Leo Leydon brought the other wide at the northern end; the southern the headland half a mile away. two authors to several of his end is now only 30 cm wide due to a We admit that we have no discoveries on the Maugherow pass developed by sheep coming in definitive explanation for these peninsula, just to get confirmation through the entrance in the inner enigmatic enclosures. Timoney went from 'The Experts'. For a moment of rampart. It is hard to establish the through almost twenty suggestions, diversion he brought us to Knocklane height or width of the very faint outer and dismissed most or all of them promontory fort1, (see Timoney bank. The ditch bottom is hardly (Timoney 2002,51-53). It is possible (2002, 12) for a published photo as more than 15 cm below the that these enclosures are not all seen from the east). While examining surrounding ground and the interior is broadly contemporary, some may this magnificent fort, standing 50 ft. just perceptibly higher than the have been re-used long after they above the rocky shore2, Eamon Cody surrounding ground. The ditch and were first constructed and some may noticed a shallow ditch forming a the interior have rounded corners. It not have been completed. small rectangular enclosure and drew is on ground sloping gently to the Looking in another direction the our attention to it. Immediately one of south-west and is 13 m from the inner Knocklane location is across the bay us (Martin A. Timoney) proclaimed it bank of the fort and 19 m from the sea from Aughris and Portavaud and does to be of the same sort of feature as at cliff and its alignment is N-S. The this say anything? sites on the opposite side of the Bay. most comparable illustrated site is Aughris, Portavaud, Knocklane On Aughris Head there are hundreds that at Portavaud (Kitchin 2002, 39, and in a sense though at a greater of them and at Portavaud there are at fig. 4). The site excavated by distance, Kilcummin, are opposite the least nine. See Kitchin (2002) and FitzPatrick gives little indication of monastic island of Inishmurray. Timoney (2002) for descriptions, the surrounding bank (see Timoney Could they have something to with a illustrations and discussion, but no 2002, 46, fig. 10 for photo). ritual in connection with that most definite interpretation, of these high status early ecclesiastical COMMENT enigmatic monuments3. monastery? There have been arguments that 1 The westernmost tip is called "Cooladoon or Dooneragh Point" on the 6 in map. THE KNOCKLANE these enclosures had something to do 2 The 50 ft. contour runs along the edge of the headland ENCLOSURE and there is a trigonometrical station at 70 ft. on the with drying kelp and seaweed. Just as western bank of the fort. 3 We also noticed a possible faint mound, 6.30 m by 1.60 This small Knocklane enclosure at Aughris and Kilcummin this m by 10 cm high, along the north side of the interior. This resembles the interior platform of some of the Aughris measures at most 6 m by 3 m overall Knocklane site is situated in a sites.

Enclosure at Aughris, Co Sligo. –Photo Martin A Timoney

41 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

At Cloonagh, on the next headland comm., Sligo, May 2005). The sheer north of Knocklane, there are circular number of these on Aughris argues Poet’s Corner enclosures (Timoney 2002, 59) which against repeated use of any individual were used for drying seaweed within enclosure. If they were for piling them and these are near paths for easy seaweed, why make another access to the shore; these are not in enclosure when there were many A Prayer any way similar to the Knocklane and thereabouts already? The solution Aughris ones. The Cloonagh ones may be by the testimony of the spade, Stan Casey have high banks to prevent grazing but that should be by a number of animals from tossing the stacks. individual archaeologists carefully Softly and sweetly the cool wind There are oval mounds for kelp selecting from an inventory of these blows, burning al Lisslarry, further north sites. The shallowness of the soil O’er the untamed meadow that again than Cloonagh, where some are stratification is such that perhaps, to be seen near paths to the shore. The even with all the techniques that we forever grows. resultant cakes of burnt material were have today, excavation would really Strange silence prevails ’midst exported through Mullaghmore to not give the answers. This may be yet the ruins where they sleep, Scotland. There is no tradition of another argument for the long-term While the fir and the elm sing a seaweed at Knocklane and no logic in preservation of these sites. dirge as we weep. explaining this site by attributing a Just a short prayer for those that connection with seaweed to them. are gone Kelp was burned up to the recent As they did in their lifetime, past, rods are still dried on stone References while passing along. walls, so why are the Aughris-type FitzPatrick, Elizabeth, 2001: "The Gathering Place of Tír Fiachrach? Archaeological and enclosures not being used anymore? Folkloric Investigations at Aughris, Co. There are still strong generations of Sligo", Proc. Royal Irish Academy, 101C3, 67-105. ––––––––––––– traditions of harvesting from the sea FitzPatrick, Elizabeth, 2002: "Aughris", along this Sligo coast but there is Excavations Bulletin, 2001, 357-358, No. nothing to link Knocklane with 1128. Kitchin, Finlay Tower, 2002: "Note on Hut- seaweed harvesting. Sites at Aughris, Co. Sligo", in Timoney, ed., Woodland Timoney (2002), following on the 2002, 37-39. Timoney, Martin A., 2002: "Aughris, work of Kitchin (2002) in the 1970s Portavaud, Lackan and Kilcummin", in and Echo estimated there are about 250 but Dr. Timoney, ed., 2002, 41-64. Timoney, Martin A., ed., 2002: A Celebration Liz FitzPatrick suggests the count is of Sligo, First Essays for Sligo Field Club, Stan Casey closer to 500 at Aughris (pers. Sligo, Sligo Fie1d C1ub. O untouched woodland Of my childhood dreams, How dear do I love Thy paths and streams,

Where Mother Nature In her cloistered cell Re-echoes her soft strains O’er valley and dell.

Ah blessed spot Full of charms to lease, Be thou my guide In a world of peace.

And thus as I walk Through thine ever-fresh flowers Knocklane Head, showing two series of banks and ditches of the promontory fort. This enclosure is in the left part. The remnants of Knocklane Castle or Gethins My heart becomes light gazebo is in the right part of the promontory fort. There is another bank of the Like all Nature’s bowers. promontory fort further back along the headland. –Photo Martin A. Timoney 42 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Napoleonic Towers in Co. Sligo

Martin Wilson

THE BALLYMOTE Heritage 22nd 1798. This small force joined wall opposite the entrance doorway weekend outing on Saturday 31st of with Irish insurgents and marched increased slightly in thickness in the July, 2004, through Tireragh, the through Ballina and defeated a centre to accommodate the chimney Barony that is west Sligo, included a superior British force at Castlebar. on this side. The towers at Rathlee stop at the Rathlee Napoleonic signal They had further success at and Carrowmably are fifteen feet tower. At Dromore West we passed Collooney but finally surrendered at square internally and the walls are close to the other one at Ballinamuck, Co. Longford, having about two feet thick. The entrance is Carrowmably. Built on top of a marched one hundred miles in seven at the first floor level, approached by hillfort, this tower is one of the best days. step ladder. Directly over the preserved of the original eighty-one A small expedition under James doorway was a machicolation, a of these towers strung out along the Napper Tandy arrived off the Donegal projection through which undesirable coastline from Pigeon House in coast on September 16th and landed items could be thrown on unwanted Dublin to Malin Head in Donegal. on Rutland Island. They had re- intruders, with two more on the enforcements and equipment for landward corners of the towers. THREATENED INVASIONS Humbert’s army, but on hearing of his There was a flat roof with a parapet As a result of several attempts to defeat at Ballinamuck they re- incorporating the machicolations. invade Ireland between 1796 and embarked. On 11th October another The height is some thirty feet. 1798, the British Government squadron of eight frigates under During 1804 the sum of £40,000 ordered the construction of a coastal General Hardy, with Wolfe Tone on was spent on the construction of defence warning system consisting of board, was defeated off the Donegal signal stations. Costs varied between Martello towers and signal stations coast and taken to Lough Swilly. £600 and £900 each. The remote stretching from Dublin to Bantry to Robert Emmet’s rising in July 1803 locations of many had resulted in Malin Head. There are two of these must have renewed fears of another their cost being larger than estimated. signal towers still standing in the invasion as orders were issued for Sligo area, one at Rathlee and the increased defences. THE SIGNALLING SYSTEM other at Carrowmably, Dromore Between 1804 and 1806 there were West. THE SIGNAL TOWERS 81 signal stations constructed to act There were several proposals for The towers were generally of two as a line of communication from invasion of Ireland with French naval storeys, square in plan or with the rear Dublin to Bantry Bay and from and military forces, to be combined in some of these plans with those of Spain and Holland, to assist the United Irishmen, founded in 1791 by Wolfe Tone, to achieve an Independent Ireland. On 21st December 1796 the first invasion fleet of forty ships and 14,000 soldiers arrived in Bantry Bay. Storms and gale force winds prevented a landing and after ten days waiting they returned to France. The French expedition had avoided contact with the Channel Fleet of the Royal Navy both on its voyage to Ireland and on the return to France, emphasising the risk involved in relying on naval protection to defend Ireland. After some delays and setbacks the next expedition was under General Humbert. Three frigates and 1,000 men, including Tone’s brother, Matthew, Bartholomew Teeling and other Irish officers on Humbert’s staff, arrived at Killala on August Malin Head Napoleonic Tower 43 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

Bantry around the West coast to of those signal stations that were Dublin following a landing on the Malin Head, with the messages going constructed two hundred years ago, West Coast). Fortifications without in either direction. A line of signal yet only used for a spell of five years. the assistance of large numbers of stations was already in place, since regular troops forming a line of 1803, between Galway and Dublin MARTELLO TOWERS AND defence would not prevent a landing via Athlone. It was possible, in clear OTHER DEFENCES but any delay to the invading force weather, to send a message from The invasions also caused was of value in enabling the Dublin to Galway in eight minutes. improvements in the defences at defending troops to take up positions Communication was by means of a Bantry Bay, Cork Harbour, the River to resist the enemy moving inland. ball-and-flag system. A rectangular Shannon at Shannonbridge and flag, a blue pendant (narrow The Signal Towers should not be Athlone, the River Erne at triangular flag) and four black balls confused with Martello Towers Enniskillen, Belleek and made of hoops covered with canvas dating from 1804 and after, of which were hoisted in various arrangements Ballyshannon, and at Lough Swilly there are about fifty, mainly either to convey certain signals. The signal (as a barrier to a French invasion on side of Dublin, Wexford, on Cork post consisted of an old top mast of fifty feet with a cap, cross-trees and fid (a conical wooden pin) to secure the thirty foot flag staff and a thirty foot gaff or spar set at an angle from the mast to which canvas covered balls were hoisted. The signal mast was positioned some distance from the doorway on the seaward side from where there was a view along the coast in each direction to the next signal station.

SIGNALLING ALONG THE SLIGO COAST Here on the Sligo coast the signal from Creevagh, Co. Mayo, three miles north-west of Kilcummin, where the French under the command of General Humbert had landed in 1798, was observed at Rathlee which is nine miles further east. From here The Carrowmably Signal Tower. –Photo Paul Burns it was sent to Carrowmably, some four miles east of Easky. From Carrowmably it was communicated to Knocklane Hill, ten miles to the north-east, across Sligo Bay; only the lower courses of the tower stand on the high point of Knocklane Hill, not in the promontory fort. The signal continued from Knocklane to Streedagh, from here to Mullaghmore and from station to station until it reached Malin Head.

LESS THREAT OF INVASION The defeat of the French and Spanish fleets at Trafalgar in October 1805 removed some of the threat of invasion. By June of 1808 there were difficulties in keeping signal stations in repair. By 1809 the government decided to abandon them. Aerial photo of Rathlee showing the Napoleonic tower with the Second World War Here on this section of Sligo LDF post and an Ordnance Survey trigonometrical station of the 1970s. –Photo: Martin A. Timoney. coastline we have two fine examples 44 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

Harbour, Bantry Bay, at Meelick and lookout towers survives on Aughris The buildings mentioned above are Banagher on the Shannon and at Head. just part of our built heritage: go out Greencastle on Lough Foyle, etc., for CARROWMABLY and see for yourself that Co. Sligo is which see the booklet by Victor J. At Carrowmably the signal tower surprising! Enoch (n.d.). Martello towers are sits on top of a very fine example of a very robust defensive military large hillfort that dates from the structures capable of having heavy Middle or Later Bronze Age period artillery on their roofs and these were (c. 1,400-700 BC). Once again, this site was chosen because of the Acknowledgements not part of the chain of signalling The information in this article is based on the commanding views it offered of the stations. very informative book, Castles and surrounding area. Later still, in 1983, Fortifications in Ireland 1485 to 1945, by Paul M. Kerrigan, to whom due the same natural vantage area was acknowledgement is made. I acknowledge WORLD WAR II LOOK OUT chosen as a site for the water tower on the help of Martin A. Timoney with this article At Rathlee, on the seaward side of the Lough Easky water scheme, and his aerial photos of Carrowmably and the tower, we have a Second World Rathlee and the photo of Carrowmably by which provides a water supply by Paul Burns. War (1939-1945) look out. These gravity for all of west Sligo. small buildings, built of concrete with a flat roof, were manned on eight MONUMENTS OF OUR MORE RECENT PAST hour shifts by three men per shift Further Reading: from the Local Defence Force County Sligo has a wealth of Craig, Maurice, 1982: The Architecture of (L.D.F.). Their job was to report any natural and man-made attractions. Its Ireland from Earliest Times to 1880. landscape is an ancient one, one that Enoch, Victor J., (n.d.): The Martello Towers activity at sea during this troubled of Ireland, Dublin, Eason. period in our history. They kept is well preserved and offers us a Kerrigan, Paul M., 1980: "The Defences of record of anything washed ashore, wonderful variety of links with the the Shannon: Portumna to Athlone, 1793- past. There are c. 5000 sites and 1815", in Murtagh, ed., 1980, 168-192. which at times included bodies from Kerrigan, Paul M., 1995: Castles and monuments pre-1700 AD and 2000 the many ships which were lost in the Fortifications in Ireland 1485 to 1945, post-AD to be found spread through London, The Collins Press. Atlantic. They had a telephone link out the 700 square miles that is Co. Murtagh, Harman, ed., 1980: Irish Midland to the local PO. Another of these Studies, Essays in Commemoration of N.W. Sligo. English, Athlone, Old Athlone Society.

At a Coursing Club Social in the then Hotel Dennette, Ballymote, 1969 or 1970. Back Row l/r: Martin Brehony, Johnny Lyons, Joe O’Hara, Tommy Henry, James McGoldrick, -- Gannon, Batty Cawley, Paddy Clarke, Frank Gannon, Bernie Quigley, Matt Scanlon, Al Ward, Tommy Lavin, Frank Meehan, Willie Porter. Middle: Dr Frank O’Harte, Tom Bagnalle, Joe Gannon, Mrs Quigley, John P Kivlehan, Mrs Williams, Michael Joe Quinn. Front Row: James Perry, John O’Connell, Mick Gannon, Tommy Quinn, Paddy Gannon. –Photo courtesy John Doddy 45 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Extracts from Freeman’s Journal

Researched and contributed by Padraic McDermott, formerly of Roadstown, Bunninadden, now resident in Dublin. Supplied to Corran Herald by PJ Duffy.

Meeting of the freeholders of Co fast. Branded in the off-quarters with Married Sligo Nov 15, 1771 the letters W.B. Had the strangles last March 15th, 1770. Thomas Holmes, Gentlemen of property then in the May, thye marks of which are still merchant, Ballimoat, to Miss Anne county attended in person or sent visible on his jaw. Phibbs. their sentiments by proxy. Whoever will give intelligence of May 21st, 1771. William Nicholson said horse (so that he may be found) esq., Castlebaldwin, to Miss Present: Aurthur Cooper, Wm to Mr Brett aforesaid or to Mr James Phibbs, Boyle, Co. Roscommon. O’Beirne, Harloe Phibbs, Wm Phibbs Hughes, Ballyderene, Co Mayo, will Jan 12th, 1779 Rev William Phibbs, jnr, Roger Parke, Lewis Francis be paid 3 guineas reward for horse Abbeyville, Co Sligo, to Miss Irwin, Henry Irwin, Aurthur Irwin, and thief, and 6 guineas on conviction Abigail Lloyd, Co. Roscommon. Lewis Jones, Charles Nesbitt, Robert within 12 months. W.B. Phibbs, Matthew Phibbs, James Thursday Dec 3rd, 1812. Daniel Leach, Michael Finton, Thomas Jones, Rathdooney, son of Thomas Sligo August 8th, 1778 Burrows. Jones, Banada, was sworn attorney at We hear from Rathdooney in this His Majesty’s Court of Common By Proxy: William Phibbs snr, County that as the daughter of a Pleas and a member of the Thomas Jones, Robert Browne, shopkeeper was being forcibly Honourable Society of King’s Inn. Henry Ffolliot, Charles Hawkes, carried off on Sunday night last by a James Knott, John Trumble, Jones set of young men, her father Died Irwin esq. Lewis Francis Irwin in the endeavouring to rescue her fired at Sep 24th, 1774. James Knott, chair. and wounded three of them, one so Battlefield, Co Sligo. desperately with slugs in the arms and Nov 3rd, 1774. John Taffe, Tuesday August 10th, 1784 body that it was thought he could not Ballinaglogh, Co Sligo. Stolen off the lands at Diroon near live many hours. The other two were Aug 23rd, 1770. In the prime of life at Ballimoat in the County of Sligo on but slightly wounded and were Ballimoat, Mr William Holmes son Friday night 23rd of July last, the carried away with the girl upon of Richard Balgarth, King’s property of Mr William Brett of horses by the rest of the party. County, a young gentleman whose Diroon aforesaid, a black horse about agreeable disposition renders his 1 14 ⁄2 hands high, 7 years old, carries 1775 Philip Percival, Templehouse, loss universally lamented by his both ends well, walks remarkably was appointed High Sheriff of Sligo. friends and acquaintances. Henry Morris

Clare Walsh

I READ an article in "A Celebration Classes in Irish were given by him One of the poems he used is given of Sligo" (1) on Henry Morris written in the evenings in the National here: by his son Ernan. I am saddened to Schools to senior pupils during, I An ndeachaigh tú ar chúirt inniu? find how few people remember him think, the winter months. I know that Ní dheachaigh mé mar bhí sé fuar in Sligo today. he came to Clohogue old school and Chuaigh mé arú inné In the 1920s he was a household to Drumcormack, travelling by Sin é an uair a chuaigh mé name. Living near Sligo, he was a bicycle. National Schools inspector but his He taught the Irish through rhyme, Ar thug tú an gluaisteán leat? impact on the public was through his Níor thug mé, ní bhfuair mé cead with its grammar. I picked up some of interest in the history and folklore of Thug mé liom sean rothar trom it from listening to my brothers. A the area, and in promoting the Irish Sin é an rud a thug mé liom. language. book should be written about his He wrote regularly for the "Sligo work and contribution to the County Champion", "Roscommon Herald", before it is too late. and where appropriate the "Western His son states that his book People". Everyone looked out for collection was given to Coleraine (1) Martin A. Timoney, ed., A celebration of Sligo, first essays in honour of Sligo Field these articles and discussed them at University and his papers to Club, (2002), 251-254. The article is entitled the fireside. University College Dublin. "A Northern Scholar in Co Sligo". 46 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Milk Harbour and its vicinity

Dr. Patrick Heraughty

MILK HARBOUR is a small tidal Buckley, Buckley and McCormick in The McCann family live on the harbour in north Sligo. The name is a the Sligo Field Club book, A mainland just across from Milk translation which traces back to early Celebration of Sligo. Eight circular Harbour. They are still professional Celtic times when it became known stones were around the skull in a ‘ring boat builders and general carpenters. as Port na Baine. The people we of glory pattern’. The suggested date W.J. Evans Wentz in his book, The know as Formorians generally lived for the burial is early in the first Fairy Faith in Celtic Countries, on offshore islands and having millennium AD, and probably pre- quotes long interviews with the subjugated the nearby mainland, Christian. McCanns about 1911. Up to about imposed the tax, known as the three Milk Harbour is sheltered from the 1924 John McCann was postman to thirds, on its inhabitants. The tax was Atlantic by two small islands Inishmurray. The delivery was once that, each year, the conquered people Dernish, area 115 acres, and in two weeks and the fee per trip was gave them one third of its crops, one O’Connor’s island, area 191 acres. £1-0-0. John with his brother and two third of its milk and one third of its The normal approach to it is by a long other crewmen also took visitors to children. A time could be arranged to channel between the north of the Inishmurray. On one occasion, on the deliver the children and the crops but island and Carrig Fhada, a long return journey, he took it that he could the milk had to be delivered daily. It rocky peninsula on the opposite side. use the crossing between the two was left at what is now called Milk About 300 yards from Milk Harbour islands. It was very calm and he Harbour and was collected by the a bar of sand and stone ran across this knew that, even if he was a few Formorians who lived on Dernish channel and a boat could not cross ‘inches’ too late, the boat could be Island opposite. Dernish is Dair Inis this until more than half tide. pushed across the reef. One of his and the ‘island’ is a tautological error However in the 1960s strong storms crew was John Frank, a well known in the anglicisation (cf. Rue Point for demolished this bar and the channel is and locally well loved character. He Rubha in Inismurray). Writers have now free at all tides. This channel is had partaken too liberally of the stated that the Formorians fought at about one and a half miles long while Inishmurray liquid production and the battle of Northern Moytura on the the entrance between Dernish and was sleeping soundly. McCann asked side of the Bronze Age people against O’Connor’s Islands is direct but the that the crew to get out and push the the invading iron armed Celts. A tide must be almost full to permit a boat. John Frank awoke and curious skeletal burial was found on boat to cross. This is because there is automatically jumped over the side, the island in 1990 and there is a a reef which joins the two islands and but, on finding that he had jumped description and commentary on it by it comes very near the surface. into the water, demanded to know

View of Dernish Island from the Sligo-Bundoran Road –Photo Martin A. Timoney. 47 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 who had thrown him into the broad shooting lodge on Dernish but, Now one of the workers said "Sorry Atlantic. The cold water abolished his because, short as it was, the crossing Major, if that does not stop we will". torpor and the boat crossed safely. might present difficulty, he built it at It stopped. His son, the last of the This passage between the two Claseybawn at Mullaghmore instead. Eccles to live at Moneygold fought in islands raises the question as to what Milk Harbour is on the estuary of the Second World War and attained happened the three ships of the the Grange River which is tidal up to the rank of Major. In the early 1970s Spanish Armada in September 1588. Grange village. In the early 1920s I the word Major was chiselled off his The ships got as far as Broadhaven on spent holidays with the O’Connors of father’s tomb. Suspicion settled on the North Mayo coast but, mainly Streedagh and I have seen boats sail the resurgent Republican party. The because of the previous damage to up the estuary, around high tide, to relevant authorities made exhaustive their rigging, were driven back by Grange. Those boats were from enquiries but got nowhere. A storm across Donegal Bay to the Dernish and O’Connor Islands and representative called on the Major Streedagh area. The names of ports, the surrounding areas. People there and said how sorry they were that including Portis Lactis – Milk found it more convenient to do their they could not find who did the act. Harbour, were marked on maps of the shopping by boat than to travel the The reply was ‘I did. He did not time. two or so miles by road. Motor cars attain the title Major. He acquired it.’ The Armada maps were very faulty and lorries were in short supply in Apart from Carig na Spáin and Túr as regards the west coast of Ireland. those days. The Eccles family lived the beaches around Milk Harbour are The west coast was depicted almost on the bank of the river quite close to sandy. That opposite Connor’s island as a straight line from Donegal to O’Connor’s Island. They were the was rich in cockles and good picking Kerry, such as the John Goghe map of descendants of Philip Soden, a was available there. That opposite Ireland, annotated by William Cecil Cromwellian officer, who was Dernish was a ‘tramming’ region. Burghley and dated c. 1567. Felipe allotted a considerable holding in the Tramming was an illegal method of Fernandez-Armesto, in his The area. During the Fenian activity in fishing. It consisted of the Spanish Armada, The Experience of the 1880s it was decided to cut the participants walking into the shallow War in 1588, Oxford, OUP, 1988, Eccles yacht adrift. This was done at sandy bottomed water holding a 266, has a map of NW Europe night by a group of four men, using a narrow-meshed net by upright stakes. showing Donegal projecting well out rowboat. When the yacht was taken The first stake was held at the water’s into the Atlantic and indicating that into the flowing tide one man was edge and the others were taken out having passed across the top of still on board and was swept with the along the length of the net. Then the holder of the outside stake turned Donegal it was almost straight south yacht, out to sea. Neither the yacht towards the shore, the intermediates en route to Spain. In reality the Mayo nor his body was ever found. following. This resulted in bringing coast projects well out into the Whether the yacht was moving so fast that the rowboat could not catch up the net in a semi-circular sweep back Atlantic, preventing sailing directly with it or whether the man was to the shore. It would have collected south from Donegal. purposely ‘disposed of’ is still all that lay at the area covered by the There is a rock near the mouth of argued. It was said that someone net. The catch was mainly white the long channel known as Carrig na heard him call from the yacht ‘that’s bait, plaice, trout, sole and a few sea Spán (? recte Spainigh) and locally it loyalty’. The man was from trout or salmon were also welcomed. was held that the Spanish ships Cliffoney. If the law was reported in the vicinity, foundered there. It is now known that In later years the Eccles family the team crossed over to Dernish – the three ships foundered at became quite friendly with the local they knew the proper crossings – and Streedagh, south-west of O’Connor’s people and were good employers. had plenty of time to conceal their Island, and are still there. It is quite They did assist with the importation, equipment and catch, if any had been possible that those ships tried to enter through Sligo, of arms for the Ulster taken. the normal channel to Milk Harbour Unionists but that was to be expected The sandy shore that ran along and failed because of the bar or tried from families in their position. There Cairig Fháda was a point at which to cross between the islands without are two amusing stories of the family. much wrack came ashore. This there being sufficient water. The area One is that the Major Eccles of the wrack, and sea rods, was collected around Milk Harbour is known as early 20th century one day when the and having been allowed to dry were Moneygold (muine-dubhalta, a two stacks of corn were being brought burned into kelp. To burn into kelp way crossing at Ahamlish marsh). into the haggard, amused himself by stone fireplaces had to be Palmerston took an interest in the ‘pinking’ with a .33 revolver, at the constructed. The stones had to be area and had a school – Templemount rats which ran out of the partly collected from quite a distance. – built there. Temple is the dismembered stacks. The helpers These stone walls for kelp burning do Palmerston family name. Perhaps the were quite frightened but afraid to not resemble the hundreds of ‘mount’ part refers to the long steep protest. Eventually a rat ran up inside rectangular earthworks on Aughris. hill up the road just north of the his trouser leg. He had the presence Despite being to Aughris many times school. Local tradition has it that of mind to grasp the trousers above over the decades I never heard of any Palmerston contemplated building his the rat and shoot it through the cloth. suggested function for those sites,

48 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 their history is lost in the mists of monument or structure off the Sligo- Costello – whom I knew – give a talk time. Several of those sites were Bundoran road on the left as one goes on Archaeology. She became quite shamefully destroyed with the help of to Sligo and on the Sligo side past interested and maintained her interest a Government grant. Moneygold, where there is a all her life. She found many Separate, in what was known as the megalithic tomb, probably a passage archaeological artefacts, many of Wee Borough, there was an ancient grave. In the mid-1970s some which are in the National Museum of monument – Gairdín a Fathach, The persons did some digging here, Ireland and a few are in Sligo County Garden of the Giant, almost certainly including pulling up some of the Museum. She maintained that a a passage grave or a wedge tomb kerbstones, in the hope of finding good North West storm was her best within a circle like that on the cliff buried Spaniards. The local name, excavator. Such a storm blew away above Streedagh Strand. Several Gairdín a Fathach, indicates a much sand and when she went out stones which would appear to be the monument of much greater antiquity after one she just picked up the circular outer wall are still there. A than the late 16th century. specimens. Her son Frank and his tradition tells that a kelp burner took Up to the second half of the 20th family now live nearby on the main stones from the ‘fort’ and when others century six families lived on Dernish. Sligo-Bundoran road. He was saw that no ill befell him, they did Three were Mulligans and three were District Inspector of the Office of likewise until the interior of the Gillens. I think that all those families Public Works, working for twenty structure had been removed. have left the island. When I worked years with OPW. He was President of My mother – born 1878 – saw this as a Doctor in Sligo there was a lady the Sligo Field Club in 1990 and 1991 happen in the early 1890s. A local member of one of the Mulligan and is a keen archaeologist. story that the boundary stones are the families, who worked as a nurse When Garda activity made the gravestones of members of the there; she had the most delightful landing of poteen from Inishmurray Armada is a figment of someone’s disposition and consummate skill. more difficult on the Maugherow and imagination. It is of interest that the One family owns all of O’Connor’s Streedagh coasts, Dernish became a area I have mentioned was island. The late Mrs. O’Connor while staging post for its delivery. It could inclusively known as Carns. The a pupil at the Ursuline Convent in remain there until a proper time for its name Carns may derive from a Sligo heard the late Dr. Thomas delivery to the retailer.

The author of "Milk Harbour and its Vicinity", Dr Patrick Heraughty, sadly passed away early in July 2005. Born in Cliffoney in July 1912 and for his first twelve years a resident of Inishmurray, he became a medical doctor and practised in Sligo all his life. With a great interest in all heritage matters, he was with Sligo Field Club during all its years and was its President for twenty- two years, from 1961 to 1983. He was Vice President of the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland from 1978 to 1981. In 1982 his book "Inishmurray, Ancient Monastic Island" was published. He has contributed several articles to The Corran Herald. We offer sincere sympathy to his children, grandchildren and great-grandchildren. May he rest in peace.

Dr. Patrick Heraughty 49 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Mountains

Molly Howard

ALL my life I have lived within sight seemed to be scattered about, I can say is that it was none of the of mountains, mainly ground-down cluttering the countryside. They were rocks with which I am familiar and ones, but still mountains. In Canada not the mountain ranges I was used to behaved like compressed, hardened, they had been worn down by both seeing, ranges that were basically a fine-grained, powdered rock or sand. water and ice. In England, and here linked string of hills. These hills The only way that I can think of in Ireland, glaciers had reduced their seemed to be independently sited, in that these hills were formed is only a sizes. Near my house, there are some clusters rather than chains. Most of guess, considering my lack of classic drumlins, the shapes that them were steep sided, ending in a knowledge in these spheres. To me glaciers produce. Nevertheless, they flat top, as if someone or something they looked as if they were formed on are all made of rock. Some ranges had cut the tops off. The more I the floor of a shallow sea, a floor here, that I see on my way to Sligo, looked at them, the more they composed of sand, as so many of our are obviously down to bedrock, as reminded me of something I had seen beaches are. As the sea gradually there is still very little fertile soil on before. At last the penny dropped. receded, it left these enormous sand them for the growth of greenery, even They were enormous sand dunes, dunes, standing around lakelets of after a few thousand years. solidified sand dunes. salt water, (the flat areas), which I should also add the mountains While I was there, my friend took eventually dried up. that I have seen in Sri Lanka. Being me up to see a bank of wind Whether this is what actually south of the glacial affected area, machines, (which I also found happened I don’t know but I would these mountains were still tall and fascinating, being far less noisy than I love to learn. If anyone who reads ragged - gigantic rocks thrust up into had expected.) On the way up, he this is knowledgeable in the the air as a result of earth movements. stopped a couple of times that I might formation of lands, mountains and But they were also made of rock. take pictures as well as take a closer earth types millions of years ago, As a result, without realising it, I look at what these enormous sand- would they please get in touch with have taken it for granted all my life, dune-like hills were made of. I could me, either to confirm my guesses or that all mountains are made of rock. do the latter as the roads were cut out to tell me where I went wrong. I That is, until lately, when I visited of the side of the hill, in order to wind would be most grateful. New Zealand. The flight in over the around them to reach the top. South Island did nothing to disturb Near the top, the make- my views on the subject. From the up of the hill was a plane, the island seemed to consist of greyish, dusty white. a vast number of new pointed-top Sometimes it changed mountains. Even the little islands gradually to a darker, dotted along the coast gave the pinky colour. Sometimes appearance of upside-down V’s, the change would be sharp mountains poking their heads out of and well-defined. If I the water. rubbed my hands on it, a Driving from Wellington to dusty-feeling material Palmerston North with the friends I would brush off. I wished had come to visit, my views and heartily that I had found a beliefs with regard to mountains college course years ago began to readjust. that could have taught me Much of the country was flat, how to identify various really flat. Many of the rivers I saw types of soil and rock – were wide and shallow, with any granite, basalt, limestone, water in them running through a sandstone, etc. The only narrow channel. I learned later that a geology course I ever few years ago there had been a great attended only talked about deal of rain followed by severe things like ‘the flooding. That I could well imagine. Carboniferous era’ when I didn’t think it would take a great what I wanted to know was deal of water before these wide ‘What kind of stone is this Tubbercurry Square 1930: An old motor car is shallow rivers were over-filled and that I am holding in my heading out of town in the Ballymote direction. Facing the vehicle is McDonnell’s pub, now the were flooding the surrounding flat hand?’ If I had I might Allied Irish Bank. On the left is Roddy’s hotel, now countryside. have been able to say what Cawley’s. The high hills I saw on the way these hills are made of. All –Picture from Sligo Champion. Supplied by PJ Duffy. 50 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Joe More, The Landlord of Doocastle

This account is taken from the "Annals of Doocastle and Bunninadden" by Martin Kellegher of Doocastle

IN ATTEMPTING to give you the consumption was a family failure. beside the present bridge at the river life of Joe More, better known in Joe More and his wife had 17 (Benson’s). Some say he was born in literary circles as Joseph Miles children and he buried all of them. Ardconnell, Ballymote Parish, but I McDonnell, all I have to tell you is all Joe More was a colorful character maintain he was born in Roadstown, I got from my parents and in Sligo-Mayo in the mid-nineteenth because he and my great-grandfather grandparents and the old people who century. He had the life of a lord at grew up under the same roof. knew him and even people who went before him. the time and the famine at its worst. He showed brilliance at an early Joe More took over Doocastle Overspending, gambling, hunting, age. Educated in Maynooth, he was Estate around 1800. He built a house duelling, and meddling in the politics ordained in 1813. Early in his and married a lady named Lynch of the day, he lived in a great house ministry he was sent to Collooney to from Galway. The story of his surrounded by servants. replace a Fr. Henry and while there, it marriage is very romantic. He and his One of the first acts Joe More did was brought to his notice that a child sister were travelling to Athlone by when he became Landlord of not of the Perceval family but of a horse and carriage through a part of Doocastle was to clear a lot of tenants "scion" of the Perceval family who Galway. Seeing a crowd assemble, out of what was known as the Barrack lived in Somerton, was very ill and Joe at once sensed a duel was on and field. I am told by old people that defied all medical efforts to cure him the fighting blood of the McDonnells many had their rent paid, but their and seemed to be en route to the stirred in him. He halted and went to fences were broken down and Joe’s grave. Fr. Doddy was asked if he see how the duel would go. There cattle were allowed to wander in could stay the hand of nature and he was only one man, the other fellow through their crops. He sent the was credited with saving the child’s had not turned up. "Where is the tenants to Carracastle to a district life. In appreciation for this, the coward now"? he said. Joe said "take called Shragh. Another family, Percevals gave him the site of a your time, he may have gotten McGoverns, went to Mount Irwin. Church in his native Bunninadden, delayed". He asked Joe "are you a Joe More was mentioned as being where the Sacred Heart Church now hench man of his, would you take his one along with Dan O’Connell of stands. This was before the days of place". "If need be" said Joe. "Then Roadstown and Tim McDermott of Catholic Emancipation. When Fr. choose your weapon". Kilterragh and his four sons, who Kane died, Fr. Doddy took over the Joe chose his weapon and with an carried the remains of Fr. Rush to his parish of Bunninadden in the old unfriendly crowd and none to act as resting place in Kilterragh Cemetery church beside where Fr. Doddy was second but his sister, he fought and in 1817. He was the first parish priest born. wounded his opponent. He was not of Bunninadden formed by the When he was appointed Parish wanted in the field so he hurried with parishes of Kilterragh, Cloonohill and Priest, he refused to take an oath of all haste to Athlone, only to meet a Kilshalvey. Fr. Rush, ordained in supremacy to the British Crown as horseman coming at frantic speed. Salamanca, Spain, was a native of was the law at the time. After a few Suspecting he was the other duelist he Ballinalack, near Killavil. The family years, the Bishop of Achonry, then pulled his carriage across the road. were evicted and settled in Gowlan. Bishop McNicholas, resented this and "Get out of my way, I am going to Fr. Rush was in Bunninadden for over appointed a new priest to the parish fight a duel" said the horseman. 40 years I often heard my father say, and came down himself to drive the "There is no need," said Joe, "unless quoting his father before him. He rebel priest out of the Church. But you want to fight a dead man". His thanked the congregation for the the people of Bunninadden rallied name was Lynch, a landlord’s son Christmas collection which was taken around Fr. Doddy and the Bishop had from Galway. He brought Joe and his up in his hat inside the door. He to flee the village. Later he sent down sister to his home and they were thanked them with all his heart, as a Fr. Durkin to serve an edict on Fr. feasted for several days. Before they now he could buy a pig that he could Doddy or in fact to ex-communicate left the landlord agreed that Joe eat with his potatoes for Christmas. him. Three leading Catholic land would marry his daughter, and Joe More’s uncle was Bishop of owners, McDermott, O’Connor and tradition has it that she got the weight Achonry around that time. While we Joe More took Fr. Doddy forcibly off of herself in gold. Going on the are talking about the clergy, I would the altar. Very few of the people scales to weigh herself, her father put like to mention what I know about stayed in the Church to hear his his big heavy coat around her. But Joe More and the rebel priest called successor say Mass. Fr. Doddy left the Lynches were not all sunshine - Fr. John Doddy. the grounds and went to where the Fr. Doddy was born in Roadstown present Church now stands and there 51 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 he uttered three terrible maledictions Orange parade was abandoned, never body. The grave was pointed out to against the men who removed him to take place again. them in day light and they were told from the altar. He said that Joe More During the 1840’s, the issuing of they would have to come at night, would see the birds fly through his writs for an election was the nearest because Joe More had sought no blackened rafters and that he would thing to the declaration of a civil war. exhumation order. He did not tell die without one person to shed a tear On this particular occasion, them the serious consequences that for him. These prophecies were Ballymote, a stronghold of the would befall them by exhuming a fulfilled many years later. ascendancy class, was up in arms. body without authority. Whether the In 1847/1848, Joe More had The Catholics were in the town boys were confused or got too much become a member of Parliament. He holding a meeting and the Orange whiskey, they had to open the third was reading by his fireside an English Men wished to disperse them. Joe grave before they found the lead periodical, in which it was stated by More was either in Ballymote, or was coffin of Joe’s father. It was brought an English critic that the honorable sent for. He rode between the down to the big house and waked member of Parliament from County opposing parties on his grey mare and there at night and my grandfather cut Mayo would have been better he is said to have restored more peace tobacco at the wake of a man who engaged in keeping the cattle from than one hundred soldiers could have died 20 years before he was born. eating the straw from the roof of his done. Sport and gambling finally proved house than making law for the In Joe’s time many famous visitors to be Joe More’s downfall. He tried English people in the Mother of came to Doocastle including Daniel to compete with landlords who were Parliaments. O’Connell and Fr. Matthew – the in a better position to spend money Joe was incensed and threw the Temperance advocate. At a later than he was himself. Two elections paper into the blazing fire. The period, in his grandson’s time (Martin cost him an enormous amount of strong draft in the chimney brought it Darcy), Major John McBride and money, and he was not re-elected. upwards and it settled on the thatch Maude Gonne visited, because if Joe Decree after decree was taken out roof of Joe’s mansion and reduced it was an imperialist, his grandson against him and he had to hand over to ruins in a very short time. Martin was not. some of his property to debtors. He Joe More and another Ballymote Joe’s father was buried in handed over most of his property in Landlord, Mad Jack Taaffe were Kilcolman, Ballaghadereen. Joe with Doocastle to his son-in-law Dominic enemies. Mad Jack’s family ideas in his mind and wishing to set Darcy. occupied a place called Kingsforth up a dynasty of the McDonnells in Joe went to live in Dublin with a outside Ballymote from which he was Doocastle on the lines of Royal Dr. Hughes where he died. He is now evicted. He then retired to Drimrane Houses in Europe, got his father’s buried in an unmarked grave in where the Reynolds now live. He remains carried away in the dead of Glasnevin Cemetery. also owned some property at Lough night to Doocastle. My grandfather Talt called Taaffe’s Mountain. was one of the men who exhumed the –Supplied by Padraig Doddy Although he was not a Catholic, he ––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– provided funds to build the Catholic Church at Lough Talt. Joe More dispatched a messenger to Drimrane to challenge Mad Jack to a duel. Jack took the messenger out to the wood and he had with him his revolver and an auger. He made a hole in the tree and stepped back the required distance for a duel and shot a bullet into the hole he had made with the auger. He said to the messenger "Now, you must go back and tell Joe Moore I am not at home". Ballymote was a purely Orange town. There were 12th July celebrations, the Union Jack would be erected on Carrownanty hill to mark the occasion, but fenianism was beginning to creep in among the people and despite how it was hounded down with bell, book and candle, it resented the Orange men Pic 31 Jim Duffy, late of Newtown, Ballymote, is seen here sowing corn with a harrow and a pair of horses. His assistant walks ahead scattering seed from a walking through Ballymote. After a bucket hanging on his arm. The picture was taken at Ballinascarrow during the few unsuccessful marches, the 1920s on lands where the golf course is today. –Picture courtesy PJ Duffy

52 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 The Irish Folklore Commission Schools Collection

Bridget King

IN THE 1930s there was a growing unique local history or 'living past' of advance booking is essential at the realization that Ireland had a rich the family and community. Department of Irish Folklore, who heritage of customs and traditions Special copy books, with front also hold the copyright, and is which had perhaps been undervalued covers illustrated with intricate celtic advisable at county libraries. in the past and which was in danger designs were used for the essays and Many schools, heritage societies, of being lost forever if steps were not each week the most interesting or community groups and individuals taken to preserve it. This was the task informative of these were copied into continue to avail of this opportunity given to the Irish Folklore an imposing bound volume. At the to research and publish the material Commission when it was set up in end of the project, both the bound collected in their local schools to 1935. The challenge for the books and all the copy books were bring the past alive to a wider Commission was how to use its very returned to the Folklore Commission audience; others are researching in limited resources in the most (now called the Department of Irish more detail subjects only briefly effective manner to achieve this. Its Folklore) in Dublin where they touched on in the essays; others are solution was to put its faith in the remain to this day. asking those who wrote the original nation's school children to collect and The collection runs to 1128 bound essays for their memories of the record information on particular volumes and 1124 boxes containing project; and others are recreating the aspects of the folklore and history of nearly 5000 notebooks. This huge exercise in their own locality, albeit their own community. The results figure illustrates the commitment of on a reduced scale. Thus, as was the would be held by the Commission the children and their teachers and original intention, this project and would be made available to all. indeed whole communities to the continues to be an invaluable The project, in conjunction with project. As is only to be expected, the document for everyone with an the Department of Education, took quality and quantity of the material interest in social and economic place in the school year of 1937/38. varies from school to school, no history at the local level. A huge debt Although classed as voluntary, the doubt in part reflecting the of gratitude is surely owed to those scheme was part of that year's enthusiasm and dedication of with the vision and courage to initiate national schools' curriculum and individual teachers. The same the scheme and the children and hence it was clear that every school variation exists within a school teachers throughout the land for the throughout the 26 counties (with the depending on the topic in question. fascinating record they produced. exception of those in the largest urban Naturally, most people had far more There has been nothing like it in centres) was expected to participate. to say about spectacular events that Ireland before or since. Each school principal was given a caught their booklet explaining the purpose and imagination such as Appendix: List of Essay Topics Local Marriage Customs A Collection of Riddles Local Monuments scope of the project, a list of topics severe weather, great A Collection of Prayers Local Happenings and how the work was to be sporting triumphs, or A Song Local Cures undertaken. Each week, senior tales of giants and A Funny Story Local Ruins An Old Story Local Place Names students, aged between 11 and 14, fairies than about Bird Lore Local Fairs were given one of these topics as what was to them an Bread My Home District homework. Using the guidelines unremarkable part of Buying and Selling Old Graveyards Care of Our Farm Animals Old Crafts given in the booklet, the children their everyday life. Care of the Feet Old Irish Tales were to talk to their family, friends The bound volumes Churning Old Schools and neighbours, especially the older and the copy books Clothes Made Locally Old Houses Emblems and Objects of Value Our Holy Wells generation, and then write an essay are stored at the Fairy Forts Proverbs on that week's subject. Department of Irish Famine Times Religious Stories The booklet listed 55 topics to Folklore at University Festival Customs Severe Weather Food in Olden Times Stories of the Holy Family choose from, covering a range of College, Dublin. Games I Play Stories of Giants and Warriors subjects including local history and County libraries hold Herbs Strange Animals geography, social and economic life, microfilm copies of Hidden Treasure The Landlord Historical tradition The Local Forge sports and pastimes, stories and the manuscripts from Home Made Toys The Potato Crop riddles, myths and legends, festivals the schools within the Hurling and Football Matches The Leipreachan or Mermaid and religious observances. The full county. All are In the Penal Times The Lore of Certain Days Local Poets The Local Patron Saint list is given in the Appendix. The accessible to the Local Heroes Travelling Folk emphasis throughout was on the general public, though Local Roads Weather Lore 53 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Rural Days Gone By – Pictures from a Vanished Ireland

54 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

Scholarly work due out November 2OO5 Had Me Made : A Study of the Grave Memorials of Co. Sligo from c. 1650 to the Present

Mary B. Timoney

Full Descriptions of Eighty Memorials With Comparative Entries for over Five Hundred Memorials Which Commemorate Past Loved Ones, Some the Short and Only Annals of Many a Departed Soul, Others Monuments of National Importance, Together with Notices, Details and Location of the Graveyards. The Styles of Artwork, The First Written Description of the Masons of Sligo Who So Lovingly Carved These Monuments, Notices of the Families Commemorated, Their Lives and Properties Illustrated by Two Hundred and Twenty Photographs Selected from her archive of Five Thousand Photographs, Rubbings, Drawings and a Map. Backed up by 53 Special Sections, A Bibliography of over 375 References, Over 250 footnotes and an Index, With an Introduction and Analysis of the Artwork Distilled from Two Decades of Research, Provided to Assist the Reader in Appreciating Those Memorials And the Many Other Memorials to the Dead of Co. Sligo Of the Last Four Centuries.

With acknowledgement to the unnamed author of The Mysteries of Ireland, published in London in 1883.

The Author SINCE May 1984 Mary B. Timoney has opened up a new field of interest for the people of Co Sligo in the memorials of the dead of the last four centuries, particularly their artwork. Besides encouraging us all to appreciate the art-work of generations of family memorials her desire is to get the people of Sligo to properly maintain the graveyards by more graveyard-friendly means. She received an M.A. in 2001 for her study of the decorated box tombs of the Skreen School of Stone Masons, the Diamonds, Flannellys and McGowans, whose works are to be seen from Drumcliffe to Emlaghfad, Co. Sligo, and across to Co. Mayo. She has published many articles on memorials and graveyards, including some in The Corran Herald, and she was one of the editors of the Keash and Culfadda parish history. She has lectured at the Ballymote Heritage Weekend and guided a number of its outings. She served Sligo Field Club as Hon. Treasurer and as Hon. Secretary from 1984 to 1987. She is a member of the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland.

55 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Ballymote Sports in 1905

David Casey

IN JANUARY 1905 a football They were entertained at P May's, again. He broke the Irish record from tournament for the championship of Pound Street, Sligo after the game. stand (without run or follow) for Co Sligo was announced. The gaelic throwing the 56lbs weight. The football championship was shelved HURLING distance thrown was 27 ft and 1 inch. and did not begin until early 1906. In a hurling challenge Ballymote In the 16lb hammer (unlimited run In the Sligo Champion January Emmets played Emlanaughton Brian and follow), T F Kiely, Carrick-on - 14th 1905, it was reported under Borus at Emlanaughton in March. Suir, had a walk-over with a distance Ballymote Coursing club, "The above Transport was provided by Mr Brian of 138ft and 2in. In the 120 yards will hold their second meeting on Wimsey. Mr M Cryan was referee. hurdles open handicap, T F Kiely Tuesday January 24th, when 2 stakes Mr John Mc Govern entertained both won by a few yards. will comprise the programme- an teams at Royview house. open stake for 16 all ages at £3 each Ballymote Emmets: James HANDBALL and an open stake for puppies at Gunning, (captain), B Healy, J Fox, B In Handball a tournament was £1.lOs each - members 25s. To this Fox, M Burke, J Mc Guinness, T played in Lackagh in July and stake is added the Gore-Booth cup Bride, P Keenan, J Mc Glynn, T J August. Six teams entered. In the first presented by Sir Jocelyn Gore-Booth, Henry, T Mc Cluskey, J Davey, J series of games Ballinacarrow, Boyle, Bart." Flanagan, E Mc Donagh, J Begley, T Lackagh, Tobercurry, Collooney and Ballymote St. Mary's Football Clynes, Tim Healy (Goal). Moygara entered the doubles Club wished to receive challenges Emlanaughton Brian Borus: B competition. from any junior team in Sligo or Henry (captain), J Kielty, J Cosgrove, The final series of games played elsewhere. The secretary of St. T Parker, C Henry, P Mooney, T between Collooney, Lackagh and Mary's was M Clarke. Kilroy, M Phillips, J Mc Dermott, O Ballinacarrow saw Collooney, They played Sligo Friary United in Wimsey, W Snee, W Cryan, M represented by A J Durcan and M soccer in Ballymote before a small Flanagan, M Creegan, M Lynch, L Howley, win the Gold medals while crowd in arctic conditions, in Hannon, J Layden (Goal) the brothers Peter and John Mulligan February. The teams were: At full-time Ballymote Emmets won the Silver for Lackagh. Mr Sligo Friary United: Goal, M were winners by 4 goals to 2. Henry, N.T., Ballymote was Judge Coan; Backs, L Dykes, P Mulrooney; Ballymote Hurling club held a and Mr J M Cryan, J.P. acted as Halves, B Mc Gee, PJ O'Rourke, P meeting in June. The agenda included marker. Keighron; Forwards, Tom Scanlon selection of a name for the club, At Moygara, a handball game (Captain), T Mc Lynn, T Gethins, P election of officers, enrolment of between Moygara and Ballymote was Mc Gowan, and T Feeney. members, and any other business in played in good conditions before a Ballymote St Mary's: Goal, J connection with the club. The name good crowd of spectators. Mr B Crehan; Backs, J Berreen, T Scully; of the club was "Ballymote Brennan, N.T. and Mr Barnes, Halves, M Sheeran, T Walsh, M Shamrocks club". Practice matches to Templevanny, represented Ballymote Clarke; Forwards, M Gilmartin be held every Sunday at 1.30 on the while the Moygara representatives (captain), M Conlon, M Wymsey, P fair field which was purchased for the were Mr P Connolly and Mr P Farry, T Candon. purpose, it was reported. Mulligan. Moygara won by 2 aces in Mr M E Gilgan acted as referee. the third game. The half-time score was 6-0 to SPORTS Ballymote and the final score was 7-1 "A meeting was held under the FOOTBALL AND HURLING in favour of Ballymote. presidency of the Rev Father Dillon The Gaelic football and hurling The report concluded "the CC, for the purpose of deciding championships for 1905 were played sligonians were entertained at Mr whether the annual sports would be between January and May, 1906. James 0' Brien’s by the home team." held. It was decided to hold them on In hurling Ballymote Shamrocks A return game was played at Sligo July 19th." There does not appear to beat Coolbock Faugh-a-Ballaghs by in March. This time Sligo Friary be a report of these Ballymote sports. 1-2 to 0-3. The county hurling final United beat Ballymote St Mary's by 3 Sligo Wanderers sports were held between Ballymote Shamrocks and goals to 0 in a good game played in July. There were a large number of Sligo Wanderers was played in Sligo. before a large crowd. entries. The Sligo team were winners by 11 The Ballymote team: J Chambers; TF Kiely, the world all round points to 1 point after a more even M Hever, J Berreen; T Hever, M champion whose exhibitions in first half. Sheeran, J Mulligan; M Conlan, M athletic events at the Wanderers Ballymote Shamrocks: PJ Henry, Gilmartin, F Cunnane, M Clarke, and sports of 1904 caused such a B Henry, T Parkes, J Keilty, J S Berreen. sensation in Sligo, was a visitor once Gunning, J Donovan, T Scully, P 56 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

Scanlon, J E Tighe, B Healy, J Fox, B J A Dockery, P Brennan, P Davey, M Gurteen: Martin (capt), Healy, Healy, J Kelly, J Mc Manus, B Hever, J Snee, - Fox, J E Tighe. Doherty, McDonagh, Healy, Costello, J Mc Guinness, M Gilmore. In the county semi-final Ballymote McDonagh, McDonagh, Toolan, I Scanlon, J E Tighe, B Healy, J Fox, beat Dromard by 3 points to nil. McDonagh, Nicholson, Kennedy, B Healy, J Kelly, J Mc Manus, B The county final between Goldrick, Davey, Brennan, Drury, Costello, J Mc Guinness, M Gilmore. Ballymote Round Towers and Scanlon, Hunt. In Gaelic football Ballymote Gurteen resulted in a 2-5 to 0 -3 win Mr P Kilfeather refereed. Round Towers beat Bunninadden for Ballymote. The Ballymote team Emmets after a replay by 6 points to thus became the county champions 3. They beat Sligo by 1-6 to 1-1 at for 1905. Ballymote in their next game. Ballymote: TJ Henry (capt), B The Ballymote team: J Chambers, Henry, Mc Govern, Wimsey, Farry, Compiled by David Casey B Henry, J Butler, T J Henry, W Dockery, Hever, Gilmartin, Tighe, Sources Sligo Champion, 1905 and 1906. Gallagher, B Healy, J McGovern Brennan, Davey, Healy, Scully, Sources (capt), T Scully, M Wimsey, P Farry, Gallagher, Butler, Chambers. Sligo Champion, 1905 and 1906. Sporting History: Bunninadden Emmets 1991

From Sligo Champion May 23rd 1891. Supplied by Padraig Doddy

BUNNINADDEN defeated Speeches were given by John 0' James Gildea, Strandhill at Collooney on Sunday Dowd M.P. and James Flannagan. Pat Leonard, May 3rd 1891 to win the County Supporters were asked to go home Jim Davis (Goal keeper), Championship by 5 points to 3. quietly owing to the mission. The Ed Healy, The Emmets defeated Keash, exact words that were used were as Pat 0' Hara, Achonry and Tubbercurry before follows "There is to be no John O'Dowd, their easy victory over the champions manifestations of enthusiasm of north Sligo to reach the final. indulged in". Tom Killoran, The county secretary, James Mattie Marren, Flannagan was the referee on the day. Bunninadden G.A.A. County James Wynn, Medals were presented to the champions medal winners: Thomas Leonard, Bunninadden team following the Andrew Marren (Captain), Mike Preston, close of the annual mission, which Pat Coen, Mick Davey, was hosted by the Oblate Fathers. Andrew Doyle, Mick Marren (fly). Ballymote Heritage Group 20th AGM

WITH THE 2004 Annual General occupied the Chair since 1991, she Treasurers: Mary Martin & Maisie Meeting, Ballymote Heritage Group felt it was time for someone else to McGovern was able to record twenty full years take it over. Des Black was proposed, PRO and Editor of Corran Herald: of existence. It was a great seconded and duly elected. He paid James Flanagan; encouragement to all members that tribute to Eileen for her unstinting, Eileen Tighe, Yvonne Perceval, after so many years the Group was as dedicated and highly successful work Maureen Egan,Anne Harrison, Jack vigorous as ever. over the years. Martin, Esther Cassidy, Anne In their reports, the officers were The membership of the Group, and Flanagan, Paddy Horan, Nuala able again to highlight how its officers were then as follows: successful the Heritage Weekend had Rogers,Noreen Friel, David Casey, been. The Corran Herald, the President: Gerry Cassidy John Conlon, John & Marie Perry Group’s annual publication, had sold Vice-President: Matilda Casey Mary Black, Brenda Friel, Molly out in record time. Chairperson: Des Black Howard, Michael Rogers, Nellie The outgoing Chairperson, Eileen Vice Chairperson: Carmel Rogers Jordan, John Coleman, Cathleen Tighe, stated that since she had Secretary: Betty Conlon Coleman. 57 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 The Arigna Mining Experience

Supplied by Brenda Howley

THE Arigna Mining Experience is a visitors will spend some time and Corrie Mountain to the North. unique community inspired initiative drinking in this wonderful scenery, a The mountains are covered in blanket which records the history and totally unexpected jewel in their bog while the land adjoining the experiences of the people of the travels. Arigna River is mostly rough pasture Arigna area over 400 years, and the On entering the building, the and low in fertility. To counteract industry which provided much visitors are invited to explore the these disadvantages, down through needed employment, so necessary in exhibition area which traces 400 the years a succession of industries an area of poor agricultural land. years of mining history in Arigna. An was built based upon local natural Regular employment was unique in a ex-miner acts as tour guide and takes resources. These industries were vital rural area of Connaught in the the visitor into the mine. The journey to the local economy with nineteenth and early twentieth underground is literally a journey employment in the mines reaching a centuries, and it was often said through a life and way of existence level of almost 400 during the period "There was money in Arigna when which has been so authentically of the Second World War. there was money nowhere". reborn through this amazing project, This industry sustained the that one cannot but leave with a sense HISTORY OF MINING community of Arigna down through of having had a totally unique The Arigna area has a long the centuries and helped to protect experience. The tour is a fascinating tradition of mining which dates back them from the horrors of the famine journey through history which to the 1600s. Substantial deposits of years. appeals to all the senses and leaves high grade iron ore in the area were The possibility of developing a the visitors with an overwhelming commonly found in "nodes" or Mining Museum in Arigna, Co. sense of the skill and dedication of rounded lumps varying from the size Roscommon first emerged when the generations of miners in conditions of a pebble to that of a rugby ball. last coalmines closed in 1990. This which were extremely difficult. This led to the establishment of iron project is a culmination of many The passion of the presentation by smelters by the Elizabethan planter, years of work by the local the ex-miners and their descriptions Charles Coote at Crevelea and community. As part of its of a working life of unimaginable Arigna, fired with locally produced development plan for the area, the severity can make a huge impact on charcoal using timber from the first Coal Mining Museum in Ireland the visitor of today. The underground surrounding forests. These was established, where some of the tour appeals to all of the senses, the "ironstones" were plentiful in the first and last coalmines operated in crunch of the ground beneath the feet, fields, ditches and riverbanks over a Ireland. the dripping of water overhead, the widespread area. They were dug out Since it opened the Arigna Mining intensity of the darkness in areas of the ground by men, women and Experience in 2003, it has welcomed without lighting, the sheer sense of children, transported over the over 32,000 visitors, an incredible the incredible endurance of those men mountain in bardogs (creels), on the number of visitors to an area which who toiled here year upon year, backs of garrons (workhorses) and would not otherwise be visited. All of totally dependent on each other to often on the backs of the many who the visitors enjoy the truly unique stay out of danger or even to stay could not afford a donkey or horse. experience and, with our greatest alive. The sight of the cramped areas They were paid two pennies for every form of advertisement being word of in which the miners lay on their sides hundredweight delivered to the mouth, we have enough proof that in pools of water leaves the visitors people are greatly impressed by their amazed that such working conditions experience and are encouraging their existed in comparatively recent times. friends/relatives etc to visit. The underground tour takes about 40 minutes and the feedback to date has THE VISITOR EXPERIENCE been extremely positive. Before even reaching the impressive building which is THE BACKGROUND designed to mirror the slag heap Arigna, located in the parish of remaining from coal mining Kilronan, nestles in the hill country of operations, the surrounding scenery is North Roscommon. Lough Allen, the the first wonder which leaves visitors most picturesque and beautiful of the stuck for works. The panoramic view three great lakes on the River across Lough Allen to Sliabh an Shannon, and the mountain, Sliabh an Iarainn and the surrounding Iarann (Iron Mountain) lie to the East. mountains is incredible, and regularly Kilronan Mountain rises to the West Arigna Mining Experience Logo 58 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 works. Both iron works were 20 inches high, using a short handled of earnings required a destroyed during the 1641 rebellion, pick and shovel, with the drawer correspondingly increased daily and later rebuilt, but were closed in loading the coal on to a "hutch", or output per team. 1690 when the forests were used up. small wagon and pushing the hutch In later years, and particularly in A search for alternative fuel led to from the branch through the slope on areas with too much water for manual the discovery of the coal deposits. to the main straight, where it was working, opencast mining methods Iron smelting was then resumed by pulled by winch out of the mine and were used. Overlying sandstone rock the O’Reilly Brothers in 1788, when to the weighing point. The drawer was broken by blasting, using for the first time in Ireland, coal was would leave an identifying item on medium diameter horizontal holes used in the smelting process. the hutch to credit the team for their drilled up to 40 feet into the rock, and While the iron works closed production. The face man was also removed by mechanical means. The permanently in 1833, coal mining responsible for placing wooden props underlying coal was then excavated. continued intermittently during the to support the roof over the seam, as Great Famine and the Land Wars of he saw fit, keeping in mind that the MINE OWNERSHIP: GENTRY the late 19th century. more props the more difficult the AND LOCAL FAMILIES Over the next 150 years coal from shovelling. After the day shift, the Who owned and worked the Arigna Arigna was used to heat barracks, "brushers" advanced the brance, the iron and coal works was always of workhouses, schools, hospitals, slope and the main straight to keep political as well as economic dwellings and to power steam ahead of production, using explosives significance. Back in the 18th engines. Local institutions fired as required. New sets of rails in century native families such as the Arigna coal by hand or with lengths of 3 feet, 6 feet and 9 feet O’Connors (Mount Allen), the underfeed stokers, with many later were added as the tunnels were McDermotts (Ballyfarnon) and the changing to chain grate stokers for extended. Waste rock from this O’Reillys had the support of Wolfe better boiler house performance. development was also used as Tone in their industrial project in wedging to support the roof over the MINING METHODS Arigna. During the 19th century, excavated seams. planter stock such as the Tennisons, At Arigna, the underground "drift When the coal seam between the Lloyds and LaTouche were in mining" method predominated. A branches was completely removed, control. It was not until the 20th "main straight" 8 feet high and 10-12 the mountain gradually moved down century that they were finally feet wide was driven, laid with twin to fill the space created, crushing the replaced by local Arigna families. As sets of tracks, from which a series of timber props and grinding the a result of a series of Land Acts a parallel secondary tunnels or "slopes" sandstone wedging to powder. This number of families operated mines in 5 feet 6 ins high by 5 feet wide were was a constant process with the the townland of Rover, when the driven, on each side of the main constant creaking and grinding noise names of Layden, Flynn and Leheny, straight, with a single set of tracks. reminding the workers of the constant Wynne, Bruen, Lynch, Lynn, Noone "Branches" 4 feet 6 ins high and 4 threat of the millions of tons of rock and McTiernan became synonymous feet 6 ins wide again with a single set over them. A short few weeks after with Arigna mines. of tracks were then driven. These work finished in any area, the In these later years the mines were branches could be up to 100 feet long. mountain had reclaimed its space. mainly owned by three families, the The roofs of the main straight, slopes With the introduction of the coal Layden family whose involvement and branches were supported by cutters in the early 1940s, they were continues today in the Arigna substantial timber props. The seam of serviced by a "driver", a "haulage Smokeless Fuel factory, the Flynn coal on each side of these branches man" who helped to move the cutter family who remain in the quarry was dug out. A two man team of a between cuts, and a "pillar man" who business in Glenview Stone in collier or "face man" and "drawer" was responsible for roof support. Arigna, and the Wynne family, who were "piece workers", paid according Despite the back breaking work, are no longer involved in the industry. to production. The face man dug out many young aspiring miners left the coal, lying on his side in the seam school at 14 years of age, to start their THE INDUSTRY AND THE which would be no more than about mining career at the simplest and COMMUNITY lowest paid level and working up to The positive impact of the industry the difficult but best paid position at on the Arigna area depended on the the coal face. The work was of existence, unique in Connaught, of course very hazardous, but accidents the natural coal resource, the were rarely fatal. Rockfalls by enterprise of the various mine sections of rock called "bullets" operators in managing and adapting posed the biggest danger and were the their methods to produce the coal cause of many broken arms and legs. under very difficult mining The wages of the workers depended conditions, and to the greatest extent, on their output of coal, but with the the legendary work ethic of the local Miner working on his side, as described assistance of the coal cutters the level people, who valued their jobs, leading 59 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 to the widely held belief that "a subterranean character. The sheet- of wind farms on the surrounding regular job is as good as winning the rock shifted and the pillars propping mountain tops. Sweep"! up the weight overhead groaned and These developments set a pattern To better understand the difficulty resettled. Water dripped. Voices for the future, yet they echo age old of the miners’ work and their echoed. The compressed air passed concerns and are driven by the same acceptance of their lot in life, it may your face like a disembodied whisper. spirit of innovation and drive that has help to quote the author Brian And beyond the glow of the lamps the been the hallmark of Arigna’s story Leyden, who in his excellent book, darkness was complete. It took since the 16th Century. "The Home Place" gave a graphic steady nerves not to keep looking description of life in the mine which over your shoulder, working alone • Supplied by Brenda Howley, Arigna includes the following: and immured in these black vaults Mining Experience. "The coal-mines were tiny by the under the mountain. (For the experience of one visitor, standard of most industrialised In spite of the dangers, fatal see Mary Kelly-White, "Eighty Feet countries. The men often had to lie accidents were few and far between. Underground in Arigna Coal on their backs in water, using a But if you worked too close to Mines", The Corran Herald, 37, 63) handpick or short-handled shovel to dynamite and got caught by the blast, get at a thin seam of coal under a the fragments of blue-black debris ledge of rock. It could be a three-mile stayed in your skin a lifetime. After a walk to the coalface followed by a deep cut the slate and coal dust day of back breaking toil. You never stayed in the scar, like route marks on The Corran saw a ‘styme’ of daylight from the a map of your days underground. time you went underground that There were feuds and disputes over Herald morning until you surfaced again that the years and one prolonged and Compiled and published by evening. They spoke an underground bitter strike that left the colliery Ballymote Heritage Group language of ‘sumps’ and ‘gobs’, workers without a wage over ‘hutches’ and ‘clips’, ‘bings’ of slate Christmas. But the real problem was Editor: James Flanagan and ‘bullets’ of rock, ‘caps’ for the quality of the coal, which in real Design, typesetting and printing: detonating ‘spats’ of dynamite. They terms wasn’t worth what it cost to The Sligo Champion worked in teams: the miners, working mine. The Arigna coal bought to Cover design and artwork: at the face, cut coal alongside supply the local power station at Brenda Friel shovellers and drawers who took it Lough Allen had to be heavily With this edition The Corran out, and brushers who replaced the subsidised to compete with Welsh, Herald has reached its twentieth rock and slate to keep up the roof English, Polish and American year. It can look back with pride after the coal was removed. They imports. The coal reserves began to on its growth into a serious and were overseen by the firesmen who dwindle. The power-generating respected publication whose gave the orders. Monday was their station at Lough Allen was at the end issues hold invaluable information day off. Tuesdays were rough. The of its operating life. And the fate of on all aspects of life around pitmen were under no illusions about the coal-mines was sealed" Ballymote and further afield. their choice of career. As one coal- This writing is of course the miner said: "The work was hard and IN CONCLUSION work of many people who have the pay was small, and no matter how Since the dawn of history contributed, often over and over little you did, you earned it all". At humankind has faced the challenge of again, to its pages. To all of them the pit entrance a red light burned at how to meet its energy needs. This we say a most sincere thank you– a picture of the Sacred Heart. The quest has always been about future generations will be grateful coal-miners blessed themselves at adaptation of innovation in the face of for your work. this spot before they went changing circumstances. At different underground. Strangers who visited times, wood, charcoal, peat and coal the mines out of curiosity often found have been used for domestic heating the experience of the mineshaft so and in manufacturing industries. frightening they never got ‘past the Developments in the Arigna valley Omission of picture’. embody in microcosm this great The coal in Arigna produced no industrial story. Names explosive gas compared to English or There, as elsewhere, the search to THE following names of members Continental coal. But a job in the meet energy needs did not stop with of Ballymote Heritage Group mines had its dangers. Falls of rock the closure of the coal mines in 1990. were inadvertently omitted from were a constant threat, and most of A plant making smokeless fuel was the 2005 Heritage Weekend the time you worked alongside coal- opened and now exports to various brochure: Yvonne Perceval, cutting machinery in confined spaces parts of Britain. The search for Michael Rogers, Nellie Jordan, in poor light. Every branch of every "clean" energy and for alternatives to John Coleman, Cathleen mine had its own noises and fossil fuels has led to the appearance Coleman.

60 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Sri Lanka after the Waves

Fiona O’Connor ON the morning of December 26th the beaches and coastal areas. Tents unlike an Irish family get-together 2004 people in South-East Asia were were erected on the foundations of resumed after the meal. Simon, one of starting their day like any other - what used to be people’s homes. the volunteers from England, going to the markets for food, Bricks and slabs of concrete lay rendered a version of Bob Marley's opening up their businesses, tourists scattered at the roadsides and in the "No Woman No Cry" and the local looking forward to another glorious relief camps where people were men joined in clapping and singing. day of sunshine by the beautifully trying to regain some sense of Panic and fear is still visible on the serene Indian Ocean at Christmas normality. Parts of boats lay on faces of the survivors. When I time. Beneath the glistening ocean roadsides not having been moved travelled to Colombo I sat beside a however, a different story was from where they came to rest as the woman called Shanthi Pinnaduwage, unfolding, one which would result in monstrous waves receded. an English teacher. It was her first a tragedy of epic proportions. Initially I was extremely time to travel by train since the An earthquake measuring 9.0 on apprehensive about getting involved tsunami and she refused point blank the Richter scale led to an estimated in the relief work. Selfishly, I to look towards the ocean, but instead 30m shift in the tectonic plates in a wondered how I would cope with the turned to face inland. She had taken region north of the Simeulue Island psychological effects of such a her fourteen-year old son with her as off the Western coast of Northern disaster. After spending about ten she was too afraid to travel alone. Sumatra, Indonesia. Hours later, the minutes with the Sri Lankan people, One young girl on the Dadalla site ocean destroyed homes, businesses, however, such feelings become took me to one side and asked me if landscapes and literally washed away irrelevant. You become irrelevant. I "... the waves will come again?" I felt life itself in a number of different was introduced to people who lost so sad for her when I saw the sheer countries that were pounded by the their sons, daughters, wives, terror in her eyes. I said that they resulting tsunami waves. husbands, mothers, fathers, friends wouldn't come, and explained that It is still not known exactly how and neighbours, all within a matter of they would be warned if such events many people lost their lives in that hours. I expected, even three months were ever to happen again. Two days short space of time. In Sri Lanka there on, that the survivors would be later on March 28th another are over 38,000 confirmed dead; depressed and struggling to function earthquake rocked the ocean floor. approximately 16,000 were left on a normal level. I couldn't have got The relief camps, homes and hotels injured and a mind-boggling 600,000 it more wrong. along the coast learned the news of an remain displaced. In other countries We were met with wide smiles and "impending disaster" quickly and the such as Indonesia, Thailand, India hands were thrust into ours in President of Sri Lanka ordered an and as far away as Somalia, people gratitude. People who have nothing evacuation to higher ground. are struggling to come to terms with invited us into their homes and plied Thankfully, there was no tsunami this attack by Mother Nature. us with hot sweet Sri Lankan tea and caused by this earthquake but the I spent three weeks in and around biscuits. One family on the Dadalla upheaval didn't do anything to help Galle in the South of Sri Lanka construction site had five of us the already fragile locals. There's during March and April, 2005. around for dinner one night. There only so much a person can take. Although I had seen the footage on must have been at least twenty One of the orphanages that I visited the television, read the heartbreaking members of their family eating with regularly while in Sri Lanka was the articles in the newspapers and seen us, all staring and smiling as they Sambodi Orphanage for the endless images of the structural and gobbled the feast of food that lay physically and mentally disabled. emotional devastation, nothing could before us. The woman of the house There used to be 102 residents in this have prepared me for what I was to had managed to cook the meal for establishment. Forty were killed on experience during my trip. Driving twenty-five people using just two gas December 26th, young children and down from Colombo to Galle three burners in a make-shift oven out the elderly alike. Ironically, the tsunami months after the tsunami, reality hit back. They kindly provided us with was a blessing in disguise as it put as we experienced the sticky heat and bottled water, leaving the lid sealed them on the map. This orphanage inhaled the strange smells of this so we would know that it was not tap would not have been used to many country which was so far removed water that we would be drinking. We visitors or donations of aid. Cliff from our homes. All of the volunteers were also given spoons, an item not Sutherland, from Canada, worked sat silently in the van trying to take in featured regularly at dinner tables in there for a couple of months and the horrific sights that were opening Sri Lanka - the locals eat with their managed to give the place a face lift up in front of us. Fresh graves lined fingers. A song and dance session not by emptying buildings that were full

61 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 of rubble and rubbish and adding a the relief camps. These homes would resort areas that were affected by the lick of paint to rooms that could now typically be corrugated metal walls tsunami but the numbers are a be used for recreational purposes. and sheet metal ceilings. Between pittance compared to previous years’ Volunteers also regularly bring badly showers of rain these structures heat figures. The stories about tsunami- needed fresh vegetables and other up like ovens and fans do little to affected areas are disappearing fast foodstuffs. reduce the temperature. from the news and the shocking The residents were overjoyed to Tuk- Tuks, small motorcycles with events and images of December 26 have some human contact from the a wagon on the back that carry three are fading as time goes by. It's hard outside world. We were smothered people, are the main mode of for me to let go of these images with hugs and the children fought to transport in Sri Lanka. My advice to having experienced them first hand. hold our hands. It would break your anyone who is a nervous passenger The faces of the people who heart to see them. Some have fairly getting into one of these contraptions welcomed us into their homes minor impairments. One man only is to hold on tight and shut your eyes! offering us what little they had will has a clubbed foot and has been a There are no traffic lights in Galle remain etched on my mind forever. resident for many years. Another town and surrounding areas, and One young girl wrote of her woman sat in a wheelchair making traffic, both pedestrians and vehicles, experience and I keep the letter close flowers from nylon tights and wire weave in all directions at junctions. In to hand for whenever I'm having a and appeared to be of sound mind. An fact I think the only rule is - don't bad day to put things in perspective. elderly woman sat quietly on her bed hesitate! There must be a method to She writes "My father told us with all away from the crowds. A new their madness though, because I the pains that although we have lost resident in the orphanage, she refuses didn't see any accidents in the three everything, we have not fallen. We to talk about anything but the "big weeks that I spent there. Tuk- Tuk will stand again". waves". It is not known if her family drivers can earn quite a good wage is alive or dead but no one has come and since the tsunami many to take her home. fishermen have taken up this Fiona O’Connor is granddaughter After the tsunami the government profession as an alternative to of Máire Nic Domhnaill Garbhaí, a warned that no funding would be returning to the sea. regular contributor to The Corran provided to rebuild homes that were It will be a long time before the Herald. She is pictured below with within l00m of the sea. Since the people of Sri Lanka are settled again. her grandmother at the launch of second scare however, the Tourists are already starting to return Máire’s most recent book "Under the government have placed a restriction to this and other popular holiday Shadow of the Summerhills". on rebuilding altogether within this perimeter. Many fishermen and others who had lost their livelihoods near the coast have started to rebuild themselves despite the futility of it all. Currently they are being forced to live in relief camps in tents, many without ground sheets or mattresses, that provide little comfort. The government has been providing the people with 375 Rupees (about €2.80) per week for rations but this may be stopped at any time. In some camps, organisations are working to implement a drainage system as the monsoon season is upon them and the heavy rains threaten to flood the camps making conditions unliveable. Even before I left in early April, light rain had managed to destroy some less sturdy tents in various camps leaving families without shelter for the second time in four months. There are also various projects ongoing in Sri Lanka with the objective of building temporary houses for the people in

62 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Patrick McDonagh

Andy Joe McDonagh

PATRICK A. McDonagh, known as fertiliser. These bags were loaded and In busy times up to five carts Paddy the Carter, worked for fifty unloaded by hand and had to be would be employed. The work paid years for Gurteen Agricultural & stacked to the roof of the shed of the well with earnings up to Dairy Society from the 1920s to the creamery. £60 a month in peak times. This work late1960s. The contract increased with the would require 2 journeys to the He started work as a helper with delivery of 11 packs of butter to the Railway Station and back. The work his cousin Sonny McDonagh in the shops. These pounds of butter would required good horses and sound carts. early 1920s. Sonny was tragically ordered by the shopkeepers in During the Second World War the killed when his horse shied at Carn Ballymote and Boyle and later village of Gurteen depended on the bridge. After the death of Sonny, Ballaghaderreen. creamery carters, who would be Patrick took over the whole contract When Gurteen creamery started returning from Ballymote empty, for of transporting goods for the churning the cream for provisions from the Railway Station - creamery. Ballaghaderreen creamery in the late particularly barrels of Guinness. The contract was the delivery of 1940s this meant that the butter had to These workers were valued by the the 56lbs. and the 28lbs. of timber be returned to Ballaghaderreen and Creamery for their time keeping. The boxes of butter to the Ballymote the orders delivered to the shops in length of time it took to do the Railway Station to be sent by railway the area. journey depended on the horses. The for cold storage in Sligo. This meant an increase in work and strength of the horses was most From mid December until early more help had to be found. Frank important. There was one occasion February, on the return journey from McDonagh of Gurtigara took on this when the time record was not kept. It Ballymote station to the creamery he extra work and continued it into the was during the war and the train of conveyed a load of two cwt bags of late 1950s. course was dependent on fuel. Some mishap occurred and the town of Ballymote had no drink for a week. The drink eventually did arrive at the Station. In the excitement of unloading, a barrel started to leak. The Station Master was called and he saved the Guinness. A short time later the Station Master handed the mugs of porter around to everyone. There was no second load that day! There were early mornings; carbide lamps were used for lighting on the carts. Bran mashes, oats, oilskin covers and frost nails in the winter time were all essential requirements. The social life was good with the wit of the Railway Station staff and the Creamery too had its share of characters. The Christmas boxes from the shopkeepers were always good.

Note: Andy Joe McDonagh was a member of NCF Gurteen Advisory Committee in 1987, over seventy years since his father started carting butter for Gurteen Agricultural and Dairy Society. The above article, by courtesy of Andy Joe McDonagh, is taken from a Gurteen Creamery Patrick McDonagh with horse and cart loaded with butter for Ballymote Railway Station. Centenary Booklet, published in 1997. Also in the picture, Kathleen and Aggie Duffy, dairymaids Article and photo supplied by PJ Duffy. 63 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Tom Shiels 1908 – 1963

Camilla Morrison WHILST he earned his living as a Farmer/Cattle Dealer, Tom Shiels’ first love was music. A highly respected and outstanding violin player and music teacher, he was a pupil of the late Mr. Henry Franklin, Sligo. He played in dancehalls, at weddings, country house dances and Keash Feis every Garland Sunday. He also played at the opening of the Cinema in Ballymote. He gave music lessons in the Ballymote, Riverstown, Tubbercurry, Killavil and Gurteen areas. Tom's first broadcast on Radio Éireann was in 1940 when it was based at Henry Street, Dublin (at the back of the G.P.O). Amongst his pupils in the Ballymote area were Maureen Fallon, Eileen Rogers/ Tighe, Gerry Cawley, Fr. Berney O'Connor, Maura Healy/Devaney R.I.P., Mautie Butler R.I.P., Peter James McGettrick, Eamon Kearns and Nonie Gray/Sherlock. The majority of Tom's pupils got First Prize in various competitions including Feis Sligigh and Sligo Feis Ceoil. Some of Tom's favourite tunes were: Céad Mile Fáilte, Eileen a Rúin, The Blackbird, The Swallows Tail, Boys Of The Lough, Lark In The Morning, Blackthorn Stick, Boys Of Blue Hill and Harvest Home.

At a 1983 meeting of Ballymote Drama Club a cheque for £500 was presented by the President of the Club, Tom McGettrick, to Sr Roch, Vice-Chairperson of Community Care. This represented the proceeds of the Club’s recent production of "A Matter of Practice". Included in the photo are members of the cast and production team. Front Row (L-R): Nance Tighe, Tom McGettrick, Sr Roch, Mary Banks. Centre (L-R): Mary Rodahan, Mary Kilcoyne, Mary McGettrick, Alfie Banks. Back Row (L-R): Gerard Kielty, Pat McGrath, John Martin, Keenan Johnson, Victor Martin. –Picture courtesy Nance Tighe. 64 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Sligo v Mayo Boxing 1964

Courtesy of John Doddy

65 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

Céilí House Killavil, 1958: Back Row (L-R): Johnny Henry, Fred Finn, Dick Brennan, James (Sonny) Davey, P Coen. Front row: Boy Richard Brennan, Rev James E O’Hara CC, County Board Chairman Comhaltas Ceoilteoirí Éireann. –Photo courtesy Kathleen Gardiner, Boston USA, supplied by PJ Duffy.

What can be done … the old and the new. Ballymote Golf clubhouse. –Photos courtesy Mary Black 66 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 My Schooldays in the 1960s

Colette Gildea-Noone WHAT first impressed me starting the "parcel from America" with off by heart for those days. The May school at the age of five was the size clothes to keep me warm and dry. devotions was also something we all of the two school classrooms with the When the postman would arrive with went to every evening in the month of big windows as like most other the parcel on the back of his bike, the May in Ballyrush Church. We all children in those times we came from excitement would be so that we might played along the roadside going up to houses with not such big rooms and end up not going to school that day as the Chapel, we climbed on top of the much smaller windows. my late father, Jack Gildea, RIP, ditches and generally made devilment We always waited with baited being the neat tidy man he was, to pass the long Summer evening breath each morning especially on the would insist on loosening all the with maybe an odd disagreement cold winter mornings to see Miss knots of the twine on the parcel and thrown in. Nangle's car coming across Annagh rolling it up to keep it safe and My memory of my first confession bridge and if for any reason she unwrapping all the brown paper and was being taken off in the back of Fr. would be late in coming we were only folding it for safe keeping. The rest of Killian’s Volkswagon car up to too eager to head off home again. us just wanted to rip it all apart to see Ballyrush Church for the big event. At the start there were no flush what each of us had got. My vivid The highlight of the First toilets or running water but in 1965 memory is of me getting a pair of Communion then was the tea in the the school got a complete facelift. As yellow wellingtons to keep my feet Priest’s house afterwards from a transport was a problem in those dry and warm, with daisy flowers on china cup and shaking with fear that days, some children having to walk a them and a matching coat and rain you might break it. I especially long distance across fields and roads hat, can’t you imagine how mad I was remember the china cup as everybody to come to school, walking up to to wear all that to school!!! But in drank tea then, but I did not like tea Ballyrush hall for school would not those days you did not say a word and so I sat there and stared at this big be an option, so Des McDonagh only take what you were given with cup of tea as I was too scared to say kindly gave his lounge for a appreciation. In another parcel one to Nellie Connor, the housekeeper, schoolroom for a few months as this summer came a pair of those famous that I did not drink tea, I only drank was in close proximity to our school black and white American shoes, but milk. I suppose I was very fortunate in Annagh. This was a complete new the parcels from America were a in those days to have aunts who came lease of life to us as we had a toilet regular arrival at the houses of those home from England and America and rather than playing tig and hide of us who were lucky enough to have with a camera, so I have pictures with and seek, we had plenty of crates of a great aunt in America, never mind my Granny and parents of all those empty bottles to play shop with. the dollars that came at Christmas and occasions from Communion to When we returned to the school after Easter in the envelope which were a Confirmation which are wonderful renovations were complete it was a God send to many houses, not just memories to have as well as the odd novelty to have inside flush toilets, ours, in those days. school photo which was a luxury that running water and cloakrooms. School days were not all bad days, could be not afforded every year in I never forgot the day that year even though the cane got plenty of those times. when while out playing at Des's I saw use. Finally Annagh school sadly an ESB van come to our house and I We always looked forward to the closed the year I left in 1969 and so knew then we would have an electric visit of the late Fr. Larry Lavin who the buses came on the road to take all light to switch on that night. The would come and tell us stories of his the children up to school in nights in those times were passed work on the missions and also not to Cloghogue N.S. at Castlebaldwin. playing cards or reading comics or mention the big box of sweets he However a few years ago the school books and it would make such a would bring which was a huge treat was purchased by Gloria & Danny change from reading with the small back then. 0’Sullivan who now have it sacred heart lamp and trying to spare I vividly remember the preparation beautifully restored and who always the lamp oil. for the School Inspector and the have a welcome for any past pupil I also had a spell in hospital during Christian Doctrine examination and who wishes to pay a visit and recall my first year at school and so landed boy didn't we need to have everything the old school days. 67 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Townlands

Clare Walsh WE are told that the early settlers "Town" translated from the Irish schools, Gárda Stations, creameries divided the island of Ireland into five "baile" or "bally" meaning an area. and Post Offices. These were the areas or cúige. Meath was the central Within the townland there could be repositories of our place names at one but later was added to Leinster. many other place names with their local level. We still have the word cúige used for associated history and folklore. Northern Ireland has the British a province. Over time and as the The townland name could be postal system with its area codes of population increased further divisions descriptive, like Drumderry, Oakhill, letters and numbers. The Ulster Place were necessary. The ruling clans took or historical or recording some Name Society warned twenty years over certain territories where their historical event, like Lugacaha – the ago of the loss of identity with this people resided. Tireoin, Tirconnell, Hollow of the Battle. The name could system. Tirerrill, etc, began this way. reflect a measurement, like Train – Some places in the Republic are Within these areas smaller Threen, Threenmore, Carrowkeel, already on the alert and have erected divisions were made: tuath, treius, Lecarrow, Quarter, Halfquarter. It plaques bearing townland names in gneeve, tate, ceathrú. All these names could be called after a local clan, like prominent places by the roadsides. have been obsolete for centuries Ballyhealey or Ballymullaney, or (Photos) This should be undertaken in except where included in place after a later English landowner, like all areas. The history and folklore of names, and wonderful to relate we Frenchpark. It could make use of an each townland should be collected still have them there. outstanding feature, as in Carraig, and stored in some local community With the Anglo-Norman invasion Lug, Gleann, Annagh, Curragh. centre where it will be easily and later on with the Elizabethan and Places of habitation feature too: available to future generations. A lot Cromwellian plantations, different Lis, Rath, Caisleán, Teach or Tig (for of it is stored in Dublin but the effort divisions were established, most of example Lisdoogan, Rathmullen). of finding it discourages people from which we have today. These are From the start of the Christian era developing further interest in the province, county, barony, cartron, we find Domhnach (as in subject. diocese, deanery, parish and Drumdoney), Cill or Kill (as in townland. The local names were Killronan), and Tarmon (a place of • Thanks to Marie Finlay, Mary maintained for convenience but with refuge at a church). Brehony, Frank Tivnan and Tommy English spelling "to make it more Each townland has its own history, Kelly for help and photos. acceptable to the English tongue". some comparatively recent and others The townland became the smallest going back into mythology. Place or basic administrative unit. The names in the Highwood area referring ordnance survey started in 1842 to the battle of Moytura are still in use recorded 62 205 townlands. today: Lough na Súl, Seelugh, Ballinarry and Annaghgowan. The late Bat Keaney of Threen found in his researches into the legend of Mananan Mac Lir that he had seven daughters, all water goddesses, and after whom some lakes of Sligo were named: Lough Gill, Lough na Léibe, Lough Arrow (Arbha), Lough Key (Cé). Today we are in danger of losing this treasury of our nation’s past. We are in the age of speed and modern technology demands concise language, preferably letters and numbers. Rural Ireland has lost the small

68 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 John M Keaney Based on material supplied by May Reynolds JOHN M KEANEY was born in New meritorious services in action against goes on: "By virtue of your service in York City on June 25th 1918. He enemy Japanese aircraft, shore the USS PRESIDENT HAYES moved to Ireland where he attended batteries, submarines and mines in during one or more of the periods school. Returning to New York he the South Pacific Campaign during cited, you are hereby authorized to joined the regular Navy on July 23rd the following operations: wear as a part of your uniform, the 1940, and after training at Newport, appropriate Navy Unit The Guadalcanal-Tulagi landings – Rhode Island, he was assigned to the Commendation insignia". August 7 to 9, 1942 USS Boise. The Consolidation of the Southern Enclosed with the above Following is an extract from Solomons – February 8 to June 20, communication was a Navy Unit "Guadalcanal – 50th Anniversary – 1943 Commendation Ribbon Bar. History Book 1942 – 1992": The Night Torpedo Action off John Keaney married Julie Quayle Malaita – February 17, 1943 On December 15, 1941 put the on February 11th 1947 at Huntington The Battle of Rendova – June 30, U.S.S. President Hayes (APA-20) Park, California, in St Matthias 1943 in commission at the Brooklyn Catholic Church. Julie passed away The Battle of Bougainville, Navy Yard. on October 11th 1967. John retired November 1 and 8, 1943 On January 6, 1942 she sailed for from employment with the Federal The Landing at Guam – July 21 to San Diego, Ca. via Panama Canal. Government in San Francisco in 26, 1944 On July 1, 1942 along with sister 1981. He died on May 20th 1998. The Landing at Leyte – October ships Adams and Jackson, the 20, 1944" Hayes sailed from San Diego, Ca. • John Keaney was brother of the late in convoy with marines aboard for –quoted from the official Department Mae (Mary Theresa) Reynolds, and the South Pacific. of the Navy communication to John uncle of James Reynolds and May On August 7, 1942 made the initial Matthew Keaney, 19 April 1949. It Reynolds. landings on Guadalcanal. Took part in the occupation of Rendova on June 30, 1943. He was assigned to Navy Base # 250 at Munda. He returned to the States in January 1944 for school and new construction. Put the U.S.S. Bougainville (CVE-100) in commission on June 18, 1944. July 1944 the Bougainville departed from San Diego, Ca. for the Pacific. Participated in Iwo Jima and Okinawa operations. The U.S.S. President Hayes was awarded the Navy Unit Commendation and seven Battle Stars for WWII service; the D.S.S. Bougainville received two Battle Stars. On July 27, 1946 he was discharged as Chief machinist mate.

The terse language of the summary gives little sense of the operations in which the President Hayes was involved. In fact the ship was awarded the Navy Unit Commendation "for exceptionally 69 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 The Fair Day in Farnaharpy

Recalled by Joe Coulter (From the Co Sligo NFA/IFA Golden Jubilee book, by kind permission)

THE 27th of each month, except brushed up to make them look their to Dublin for shipping or selling on March, when it was on the 30th, was best. the Dublin market. One advantage of the fair day in Farnaharpy in Skreen. After this it was a matter of waiting those days was you could go to the We got up early in the morning, and were the dealers good at that fair whenever the mood took you. usually while still dark. Myself, my game! First came what we called the There were no blue cards, no testing, father and Stuart would round up the stick men. Those men offered well horns were no problem, -no cattle chosen for the fair. We brought below the market price but were Department officials and no red tape. them into the yard and gave them a spotting the cattle for the dealers. If It was hard work driving the cattle feed. It was important their sides did you had good cattle the dealers would to the fair and standing all day with not cave in during the drive and the come and then the bidding would them. Only the number of drovers on long standing at the fair. start. This involved a lot of slapping the road made it possible to control It was time to hit the road at 6am, of hands with neighbours splitting the the cattle. Standing all day was hard as a good position at the fair was difference. The dealer would write enough but if it was teeming rain, the important. The amount of manure on the price on a ticket and try to stuff it big heavy coats of the time soaked the the road was a good barometer of the into your pocket even though a price water and felt like a tonne weight by size the fair would be. The cattle set was not agreed. Another trick of the evening. off at a lively trot, the man in front trade was offering to buy all but one We went to the eating house for a having a busy time slowing them of your cattle, saying the one left was feed and later a canteen used to arrive down and watching for open gates a plain old sort. As no farmer wanted at the fair. A mug of tea and a ham and gaps. to walk one animal home, the sandwich were very welcome. When After a while the fresh cattle bargaining became hard and tough. we sold, if my father wanted to treat caught up with the droves ahead of When a price was agreed, a mark was someone, he went to the pub and had them. From then on control became placed on the cattle e.g. raddle or a a bottle of Guinness or two and paid easier as the different farmers helped clip of a scissors. The cattle were sold for the same for his friend. The each other. when the mark was made. barman gave him the caps of the A lot of farmers had a dread of If the fair was bad, i.e. no bottles. These were passed on to his meeting a woman first when they worthwhile prices, we had to walk the friend, who then left my father started the drive and if a red headed cattle home again, feed them for a minding the cattle and presented the woman met you first you could go fortnight and head off to Collooney bottle caps to the barman and was home. My father liked to go half way fair on the 11th of the next month. served immediately. up the fair with a telegraph pole as a A better price was often to be had I can recall those days like mark. As we neared the chosen spot at Collooney as the railway station yesterday. The pub had a shop to the the lead driver edged the cattle up on was there. Drovers or stick men were front of the premises and sound the footpath against the wall and not needed to bring the cattle to the friendships were made. Times were when they settled down they were train. The train transported the cattle so much simpler.

Templehouse Bridge c.1923 70 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Forty Years on in Collooney

Mary Kelly-White I CAME to live in Collooney as a blushing bride in January 1963. My cool and collected husband Mick was a carpenter employed at the local G.W.I. joinery, which decided the location. We lived in a tiny little storey-and-a- half house, one door, one front window, perched proudly on the Sligo - Dublin road one mile from Collooney. Like Romeo and Juliet we pottered about our cosy little house preparing for the arrival of our first baby. The baby boy was born at Halloween 1963 but he had a congenital heart condition and by 05 November 03 he had winged his way back to Heaven leaving us with a saint and a soul but no baby to take home from the hospital. He was lay- baptised in the nursery and we named him Michael Christy. The plot we bought in St. Nathy's cemetery, Collooney, cost £2. A similar plot would cost 500 Euro today. From the small gate leading into my house I could see The house at Tubberbride St. Nathy's cemetery. I even thought I could see our plot, which was in the centre half way up the hill. With nothing else to do but grieve I took my bicycle and rode the mile or so down the N4 towards the graveyard to find out whether my house was visible from the tiny plot. It was a sunny morning. To my horror when I looked towards my house I saw what I thought was a column of smoke. I came to my senses immediately, grabbed the bike thinking how foolish I was to be weeping miserably over the grave of my baby who was already happy in Heaven while here on earth everything belonging to his parents was going up in smoke. It was an optical illusion. I had forgotten that Kerins' two-storey house came between my house and the cemetery. What I thought was a column of smoke was in fact the gable of that house. By the time I visited the graveyard again I couldn't find our unmarked plot. Now forty years later I'm doubling my tracks. There are three infant souls in our plot, born Angels, Ambassadors in View from Tubberbride Heaven, pleading with the Good Lord on our behalf. Standing in the cemetery looking towards Tubberbride where our little house still stands (photo enclosed), I can only see the developing Collooney Business Park where fifteen enormous Industrial Units are under construction, the only one of which is up and running as I write (March 2005) is Ocean FM, the new local Radio Station. The forty years have taken their toll on me. I'm not the blushing bride any more. I still have a bike but needing the exercise I walked the mile from my town house to revisit Tubberbride, and I took my camera. In the song Lament for an Irish Emigrant, the graveyard came between the widower sitting on the style, and the Church Yard where he had laid his wife with their baby on her breast. For me and my camera, as the photo shows, it is the ultra modern Dual Carriageway, and the Galway/Sligo/Dublin Roundabout, which blocks my view. But the sun did shine and I spotted a little plot of tombstones, too tiny for publication. View from St. Nathy’s Cemetery 71 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery

Lynda Hart MEGALITHIC SITES Burenhult in the late 1970s and again passage tombs at their simplest, Nestling at the foot of Knocknarea, in the late 1990s were to reverse this usually with five upright stones Co. Sligo, lies Carrowmore viewpoint. Dates taken by him at (orthostats) and a capstone. At some megalithic cemetery. The area is the Carrowmore suggested very much of the tombs a line of parallel stones largest of the four main megalithic earlier dates, some going back to the leads to the entrance, hence a sites in Ireland. The other three are Mesolithic or Middle Stone Age, and passage. Loughcrew in Co. Meath, Bru na at tomb 4, a radiocarbon date of 5400 The artefacts found within the Boinne in Co. Meath, home to BC was recorded. With these dates tombs are all very similar. Small Knowth and Newgrange, and the archaeologists were able to stone beads in varying quantities, Carrowkeel in Co. Sligo. change the face of history, and it is arrowheads, and stone scrapers, From the geographical centre of now generally believed that the tomb quartz crystal and antler pins with Carrowmore, the view is stunning. builders didn't land on the east coast, mushroom-shaped heads. Also the Benbulben in the north, the but on the north west coast and that tombs contained cremated human Ballygawley Mountains, the Curlews Carrowmore was the first site, and remains, again in varying quantities. and the Bricklieves are all visible. that the peoples then moved eastward In some of the tombs excavated the The Ox Mountains to the west are the and as they built more tombs, these amount of remains suggests up to origin of the boulders that were used became ever more elaborate ending in thirty people may have been interred. to build the tombs. They were the spectacular site at Newgrange. So perhaps a family or a small clan of people built a tomb and used it for deposited around the countryside as THE AREA glacial erratics during the last Ice Age many years. (10,000 BC). The site at Carrowmore is set in the Cuil Irra peninsula, between Sligo LISTOGHIL THE TOMBS Harbour to the north and Ballysadare The central and largest tomb is Bay to the south. To the west is The tombs at Carrowmore are called Listoghil (tomb 51). A large Knocknarea mountain with the numbered. In 1837, George Petrie cairn of stones once covered this stunning Miosgan Meadhbha or carried out a survey for the Ordnance tomb. These were taken from the Maeve's Cairn. This is an Survey, and numbers were assigned cairn in the mid 1700s to create stone unexcavated tomb, which probably to each tomb. walls around the landowner's dates to around 3200 BC. It was generally thought for many property (1750 Land Enclosures Act). Carrowmore itself has about 30 years that Carrowmore was the During the second period of tombs at the present time. There were youngest of the four sites. It was at excavations at Carrowmore it was many more at one time, up to 100 and decided to try to re-create the cairn to first believed that the builders of the perhaps even more. Many of these look as it did in the 1700s. Work on tombs came from Europe and settled tombs were lost in the 1800s to the cairn is ongoing and visitors can on the east coast, building antiquarians who literally plundered get a visual idea of what the cairn Newgrange and then moving the tombs in the hope of finding looked like, yet they can still see the westward to Loughcrew, Carrowkeel objects to add to their personal inner tomb. and finally to Carrowmore. The collections. Many more of the tombs Listoghil has carbon dates of historians believed that the society were lost to quarrying and to road around 3200 BC, making it one of the degenerated as it moved west, building; these practises went on into youngest tombs. Evidence suggests accounting for the fact that the 1960s when there was still that there were fire pits there long Newgrange was a magnificent quarrying from the surrounding area. before the tomb was built, so rituals structure, whereas the tombs at The site is now a national monument may have been carried out in this area Carrowmore are very simple in their owned by the OPW, and guided tours which may have included cremations. construction. Newgrange was of the site can be taken in the summer excavated in the early 1960s and months. THE TOMB BUILDERS dates taken from radiocarbon dating suggest dates of around 3200 BC, TYPE & CONSTUCTION The tomb builders were hunter- placing it the Neolithic or New Stone There are four main types of tombs gatherers, and they lived off the land. Age. in Ireland: passage, wedge, court and The temperature around the time of But excavations carried out by the portal. the Mesolithic people was about 2 Swedish archaeologist Goran The tombs at Carrowmore are degrees higher than it is now and so

72 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

there may have been many more was constructed agriculture had A VISIT diverse fruits and berries. Also they arrived. Under one of the large Sligo County is rich in would have hunted wild boar, deer kerbstones that surround the tomb, and other small animals. Those who the remains of an early cow were archaeology. Carrowmore is just one lived near the coast or by rivers found. So by about 3200 BC it is of many beautiful and special areas, would have also had fish and shellfish thought that the people were and people who visit the site share in their diet. On the coast at becoming more settled and that they this feeling. So if your interest is Cullenamore the archaeologists had begun to grow crops and raise archaeology, history or the beauty of found huge shell middens, areas of cattle. the landscape, a visit will not debris from where the hunter- Some of the tombs have had disappoint. gatherers caught and ate shellfish. secondary use, mainly in the Iron Carrowmore is open from Easter to There were no crops or cattle at Age, and at tomb 26 on the eastern this time as it was before the dawn of side of the cemetery, the bones of a the end of September (also 17th agriculture. Agriculture did not arrive young female and a small child were March), l0.00 am - 6.00 pm (last until the Neolithic. There is evidence discovered. These bones were dated admission 5.00 pm) at Listoghil that by the time this tomb to 90A.D (Bronze Age). Guided Tours are available.

Van Gogh’s Bedroom Mairéad Collis Bed made neatly, Light stirring through the window, Candles lit, Pillows laid out nicely, Shirts hung on the end of bed, Tray on locker, water in glass, Cushion on chair, Nightgown hanging on door, No one in bed it’s a pity. –––––––– In the Maria Edgeworth Literary Competition, this poem by Mairéad Collis, aged 11 years, of Ardnaglass, Ballymote, won first prize in Primary School Poetry. Sponsors BALLYMOTE Heritage Group wishes to acknowledge with gratitude the support of the following who kindly and generously sponsor the Heritage Weekend: Tente Ltd Ulster Bank Bank of Ireland Allied Irish Bank Keenan Johnson FBD Insurance Matilda Casey John and Marie Perry Michael and Carmel Rogers Jack Martin Cost of the Last Journey Home –Courtesy John Doddy 73 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Presentation to Eileen Tighe AT THE annual dinner of Ballymote group’s President, to make a and to thank her for all she had Heritage Group in the Stonepark presentation of a piece of Innisfree accomplished as an Officer of the Restaurant, Ballymote, on Saturday crystal to Eileen Tighe to mark the Group. November 27th 2004, it was the very occasion of her retirement from the The thirteen years during which pleasant duty of Gerry Cassidy, the position of Chairperson of the Group, she had occupied the Chair saw Eileen steer the Heritage Group from success to success. The annual Heritage Weekend has grown to a level of excellence where it is of national importance and attracts lecturers of national and international repute. The Corran Herald has developed from a small 12-page newsletter type of production to a substantial magazine that can run to over 80 pages; over the years its issues have grown into a major repository of knowledge of the Ballymote area, much of Co Sligo, and further afield. Most of the credit for all this good work goes to Eileen for her planning, her foresight, her attention to and care for the smallest details, and her energetic and uncompromising love of all matters of Heritage. It is the good fortune of Ballymote Heritage Group that she remains a The President of Ballymote Heritage Group, Gerry Cassidy, making a presentation committed member. They look to the retired Chairperson, Eileen Tighe, at the Group’s annual dinner in the forward to her advice and inspiration Stonepark Restaurant, Ballymote. –Photo courtesy Jack Martin in the years ahead.

This play, ‘Spring Meeting’, was directed by the late Jim McGarry, a frequent contributor to the pages of The Corran Herald –Supplied by Maisie McGovern 74 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Sligo winners in the 51st Texaco Children's Art Competition There were nine award winners from Co. Sligo in the 51st Chairman, Texaco (Ireland) Ltd. There were about 35,000 Texaco Children's Art Competition this year. They were entrants in all with 4,000 entrants in each of the younger Darren Coleman from Gurteen, Tara Conlon from Sligo, age groups and about 7,000 in each of the older ones. Aoife Connolly from Dromore West, Elizabeth Corcoran The photos show Bridget Timoney with her from Sligo, Kieran Duffy from Rathlee, Roselle Mannion watercolour of a flower, Summer Rose, and her sister from Sligo, Ciara Schmidt from Strandhill, and sisters Catherine with her painting done with watercolour and Bridget and Catherine Timoney from Keash. pencil of a cat Muckelty. Both girls attend art classes with The awards were presented in the Burlington Hotel, Sharon Huban in Colaiste Muire, Ballymote, and Eilish Dublin, on 18th May 2005 by Paul Martin, Country O'Donnell in Strandhill.

Paddy McDonagh late of Killavil, Ballymote, pictured holding his dairy Shorthorn heifer which won the Connacht Championship at Tubbercurry Show in 1954. As well as breeding pedigree cattle, Paddy in his heyday was also a well-known athlete who gained honours at County and Provincial level. –Picture, from Irish Independent of 24/09/1954, supplied by PJ Duffy. 75 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Scouts

Turlough Brennan

HELLO, I am going to use this small eight scouts, which include a PL here, is an example of this fun. A year corner of this magazine to proclaim (patrol leader) and an APL (assistant or two ago we went to a hostel in (let's just say) the good news of patrol leader). These patrols are Arklow, Wicklow, for a weekend. We scouting. I belong to a scout group encouraged to work together in saw that there was a fountain in the from Walkinstown in Dublin. challenges that they are set and they centre of the town so we pondered as Scouting started years ago (the early are also encouraged to do merit to what we should do (as an act of 1900s to be exact) and is still going badges and awards. There are up to comedic proportions). We made up strong with the majority of countries one hundred merit badges and there our minds and we went to the local in the world having scouting are five main awards, which get shop and bought four litres of associations. In fact, there are only harder to get as you go through them. washing -up liquid. Can you see what about six or seven countries in the The merit badges range from happened next? Well the whole four world that do not have a scout anything like cooking to camping, litres were poured into the fountain association. from first aid to fishing and the list and it started to bubble up like crazy. "So, what is scouting?" I hear you goes on. The next day the foam was blowing ask. Well, scouts are a type of youth The five awards are the tracker across the street and was messing the group that offers a range of program award, the explorer award, the star whole town up. The locals didn't ideas that appeal to the eleven to scout award, the national scout award mind, however, this happened almost fifteen age bracket. I belong to the and the biggie, the chief scout award every weekend anyway! So if that is "Scouting Ireland" association and it (the last two awards are great things what you’re looking for then there is is a member of WOSM - the world to put onto a CV). I got the national a small amount of it in scouts. And organisation of scouting movements. scout award a few months ago and I water fights also! Basically a great My scout group meets every am currently hard at work on the load of fun. Tuesday for two hours, in which we chief scout award. A lot of effort has If anyone is interested, then join learn skills that we would find to be put into the awards and when your local scout group. If there is no practical in the real world. Rope you receive them, it really pays off. local scout group then set one up! work, map work and using axes and Now I must finish with the most saws properly are some of the many important thing that scouting is about •Turlough is grandson of Jack and skills that we learn. and that is fun. If it was not fun then Mary Martin, Carrownanty, Our scout group has four patrols of there would be no point going. So, Ballymote.

94th Walkinstown Scout Troop. Shield Competition 2003. Turlough in the centre 76 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

Ballinacarrow N.S. 1925 – Front row l/r: A Hannan, B. Brehony, S. Coleman (J), E. King, B. Redican, M. Redican, B. Henry, C. Keane, S. O’Hara, S. Goulden. Second row: J. Keaney, B. Melvin, S. Coleman (S), W.J. Melvin, A. Haraghy, J. Phillips, J. Reynolds, J. Lynch, A. Goulden, C. Phillips, F. Henry, J. Goulden, G. Jordan. Third row: M.F. McGrath, K. Davey (student teacher), A. McBrien, M. Redican, M. Henry, M. Reynolds, P. O’Hara, J. Murrin, M. McGowan, M. Clarke, M. Derig, M. Gilmartin, M. Quinn (student teacher). –Photo courtesy May Reynolds

RIC Tynagh, Loughrea, 1913. Standing (L-R): Constables Moore, Hunt, Cryan, Callanan, Flanagan, Mawn. Seated: Sergt Bolger and family. –Picture courtesy Nance Tighe 77 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

Ballymote National School 1924 – Front row l/r: Canon Tom Quinn P.P., Michael Joe Regan, Berty Mattimoe, Anthony Kelly, Brudy Timon, Alex Healy, Colly Healy, Anthony Healy, Andy Dennedy, Jimmy Mulhern, Jimmy Donoghue, Eddie McGettrick, John Barnes N.T. Second row: Dr. Frank O’Heart, Jimmy Taheny, Charlie Hogge, Paddy Duffy, Jimmy Meehan, Jim Heart, Paddy Brennan, Michael Joe Hannon, Luke Hannon, Jack Kelly, Gerry McLaughlin. Third row: John Connelly, John Gardiner, Paddy Dockery, John T. Regan, Batty J. Brennan, Chris Healy, Anthony Healy, Larry McGlynn, Raymond Kelly, Tommy Healy, Noel McAndrew, Jerry Cryan, Charlie Eagan, James M. Gilmartin, Gerry Regan. Front row: Eugene McDonagh, Jody Dockry, Michael Cawley, Jack Egan, Jim Hogge, Tommy Harnan, Paddy Harnan, Mick Hayden, Paddy Rogers, Tommy McLoughlin, Ned McGettrick.

Ballymote First Holy Communion 2005 º Front Row l/r: Joe Cobbe, Paul McKenna, James Mulligan, Aoife Conlon, Alishia Glavin, Gemma Gurrie, Jennifer Judge, Tommy Sheerin, Ciarán Anderson, Conor Healy. Middle Row (L-R): Daniel Murtagh, Clementine Drew, Nicole Martin, Alejandro Rierra, Denise McGrath, Gareth Healy, Angela Nally, Daniel Ford, Seán Golden. Back row: Ms Dolores Taheny (Principal, Scoil Mhuire gan Smál), Dylan Johnson, Aoibhinn Finn, Stefan Beirne-Hill, V Rev Fr G Hannan (PP Ballymote), Stephen McMorrow, Seána Davey, Padraig O’Dowd. Teacher: Ms Caroline Wynne. –Picture courtesy Dolores Taheny 78 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

KILLAVIL MUSICIANS: Musicians pictured at the Céilí House, Killavil, 1958. Top Picture Back row l/r: Johnny Henry, Fred Finn, Dick Brennan, James (Sonny) Davey, P Coen. Front: Richard Brennan (boy) and Fr James E O’Hara CC. Lower picture: Patk Spellman, Peter Horan, Johnny Henry. –Both pictures courtesy Kathleen Gardiner, Boston.. Supplied by PJ Duffy. 79 T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006

The front section of the Marian procession, held on August 15th 1954. It was on this day that the new crown for Our Lady’s statue was put in place (see Alfie Banks, "Our Lady’s Crown", The Corran Herald 37, 58). The altar-boy carrying the cross at the head of the procession is Michael Shiels, Corhubber. The usher at the front was TJ McCarrick, Principal, Ballymote Vocational School, and the lady usher further back was May O’Dowd, assistant teacher Rathmullen NS. –Picture courtesy Gabrielle Shiels

Marian Procession 1954 : FCA Guard of Honour (Ballymote and Keash). Included in the photo are Packie Duffy, Frankie Begley, Keenan Johnson, Stan Casey, Andy Rogers, Harry Horan, Tom McGettrick, Dr T Taheny, Gerry Cassidy, Rt Rev Monsignor PJ Roughneen (PP Ballymote), Dermot Collins, Mick McAndrew, Colm Barnes, Rt Rev Monsignor Blaine (Swinford), Joe Nolan, Noel McCloskey, Padraig Dockry, Eamonn Barnes, Vincent Jordan, Lt Willie Dwyer, Mercy Sisters, St John of God Sisters. –Picture courtesy Maggie Flannery 80