Cuisine watch

Suman Bolar experiences the hospitality of a bygone era as she's introduced to to chat about earlier visits to Bangalore, Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy his admiration for his 'guru' Khushwant Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Avadhi by Jiggs Singh, and his long career as a Kalra, the granddaddy of journalist. Before I know it, we are t e l l s m e . “ T h e y a p p o i n t e d states firmly. Contrary to popular discussing our respective families, the representatives to perform the task of perception, the nawabs of Avadh were Indian foodies. unpredictability of life's sudden entertaining them.” The finest cooks, descendants of the Mughal kings' curveballs, and the merits of candour known as bawarchis or rakabdars, were noblemen, not of the kings themselves. versus politeness. I almost forget why employed, and received royal patronage Although Mughal influences do I'm here. “Food!” I exclaim, suddenly. from the nawabs. In the true nawabi permeate the Avadhi culinary tradition, “We're supposed to be talking about spirit of largesse, culinary talent and Avadhi food!” skill were handsomely rewarded. This Bada Imambara Avadh, a region in the centre of drove the chefs to raise their craft to art In 1784, a famine swept across Uttar Pradesh, was once known as the – they drew inspiration from poetry, Avadh. Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah United Provinces of Oudh and Agra. music, seasons, festivals, flora and commissioned the construction of The British appointed a governor, or fauna, and people and were unafraid to the Bada Imambara as part of a lose your eyes and imagine overstuffed cushions, a rich repast is laid reading his articles in the Illustrated nawab, to oversee this province. experiment with new techniques and food-for-work famine relief program yourself transported back to out before you. Intriguing aromas waft Weekly, and can't wait to meet him. At Eventually, Avadh effectively became ingredients. Their painstakingly created designed to provide large-scale Lucknow in the 17 t h your way, and you think to yourself, “I'm Jamavar, I'm seated at an outdoor table an independent, princely state. Its recipes were jealously guarded secrets, employment. Large handis or century. Picture yourself as in heaven!” to wait for my host. He arrives on the capital city, Lucknow, still remains UP's passed down through generations by vessels of -infused rice were C the guest of a nawab, On my way to meet culinary maestro dot of one, sporting a baseball cap with capital city. word of mouth alone. placed on hot coals and sealed to surrounded by opulent décor, pleasing Jiggs Kalra at the Leela Palace, his name on it - “In case there was any “The nawabs wanted to keep the I ask Jiggs about the influence of the ensure that hot food was available music, the rustle of silk and the Bangalore, I'm daydreaming my way doubt,” he jests. British happy, but they would never Mughlai culinary tradition on Avadhi to workers around the clock. This intoxicating scent of hand-mixed through city traffic. He's here to Brushing aside my attempts to deign to eat with them because they cuisine - and am promptly corrected. was thought to be the birth of dum fragrances. As you recline against promote Avadhi cuisine; I grew up address him more formally, Jiggs begins [the British] were -eaters,” Jiggs “It's Moghaliyaa, not Mughlai,” Jiggs cuisine in India.

01 3rd Quarter 2007 3rd Quarter 2007 02 Cuisine watch

Suman Bolar experiences the hospitality of a bygone era as she's introduced to to chat about earlier visits to Bangalore, Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy his admiration for his 'guru' Khushwant Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Avadhi cuisine by Jiggs Singh, and his long career as a Kalra, the granddaddy of journalist. Before I know it, we are t e l l s m e . “ T h e y a p p o i n t e d states firmly. Contrary to popular discussing our respective families, the representatives to perform the task of perception, the nawabs of Avadh were Indian foodies. unpredictability of life's sudden entertaining them.” The finest cooks, descendants of the Mughal kings' curveballs, and the merits of candour known as bawarchis or rakabdars, were noblemen, not of the kings themselves. versus politeness. I almost forget why employed, and received royal patronage Although Mughal influences do I'm here. “Food!” I exclaim, suddenly. from the nawabs. In the true nawabi permeate the Avadhi culinary tradition, “We're supposed to be talking about spirit of largesse, culinary talent and Avadhi food!” skill were handsomely rewarded. This Bada Imambara Avadh, a region in the centre of drove the chefs to raise their craft to art In 1784, a famine swept across Uttar Pradesh, was once known as the – they drew inspiration from poetry, Avadh. Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah United Provinces of Oudh and Agra. music, seasons, festivals, flora and commissioned the construction of The British appointed a governor, or fauna, and people and were unafraid to the Bada Imambara as part of a lose your eyes and imagine overstuffed cushions, a rich repast is laid reading his articles in the Illustrated nawab, to oversee this province. experiment with new techniques and food-for-work famine relief program yourself transported back to out before you. Intriguing aromas waft Weekly, and can't wait to meet him. At Eventually, Avadh effectively became ingredients. Their painstakingly created designed to provide large-scale Lucknow in the 17 t h your way, and you think to yourself, “I'm Jamavar, I'm seated at an outdoor table an independent, princely state. Its recipes were jealously guarded secrets, employment. Large handis or century. Picture yourself as in heaven!” to wait for my host. He arrives on the capital city, Lucknow, still remains UP's passed down through generations by vessels of spice-infused rice were C the guest of a nawab, On my way to meet culinary maestro dot of one, sporting a baseball cap with capital city. word of mouth alone. placed on hot coals and sealed to surrounded by opulent décor, pleasing Jiggs Kalra at the Leela Palace, his name on it - “In case there was any “The nawabs wanted to keep the I ask Jiggs about the influence of the ensure that hot food was available music, the rustle of silk and the Bangalore, I'm daydreaming my way doubt,” he jests. British happy, but they would never Mughlai culinary tradition on Avadhi to workers around the clock. This intoxicating scent of hand-mixed through city traffic. He's here to Brushing aside my attempts to deign to eat with them because they cuisine - and am promptly corrected. was thought to be the birth of dum fragrances. As you recline against promote Avadhi cuisine; I grew up address him more formally, Jiggs begins [the British] were pork-eaters,” Jiggs “It's Moghaliyaa, not Mughlai,” Jiggs cuisine in India.

01 3rd Quarter 2007 3rd Quarter 2007 02 Cuisine watch

the two are, at best, distant that a fresh serving be brought out. By cousins. the time it arrives, he's talking about his By now, Jiggs has ordered a kids. I place the first morsel in my platter. Although many believe that mouth, cutting him short mid- were 'discovered' by Turk sentence. “Stop talking and give me a soldiers, who skewered with their moment to savour this raan in peace,” I swords and grilled it over open fires, blurt out. Photographer Sharmila Shah historical evidence belies the notion. freezes at my temerity – but Jiggs is The twelfth-century Chalukyan ruler delighted. “This is how food should be Somadeva (1127-1138 A.D.) wrote a enjoyed,” he tells her, much to my relief. treatise called Manasollasa, in which he The recipe for this particular raan, he describes a dish called bhaditraka. tells me, was gifted to the kitchens of Involving meat stuffed with and Avadh by Changez Khan's descendant roasted on spits, bhaditraka sounds Timur the Lame. suspiciously like a kebab! In the case of While we're waiting for our entrées, Avadh, however, it is most likely that Jiggs tells us about the bread basket he's the kebab did filter down through the ordered. “Rural women had to rise early, centuries and the generations of Turkish so they'd keep the dough beside the and central Asian soldiers who served in warm angeethi at night to ferment and the armies of the Delhi Sultanate and rise. In the morning all they needed to the Mughal empire. While the Mughals do was roll out the roti. It's the best originally used minced in their sourdough bread I've ever tasted kebabs, the nawabs substituted lamb so anywhere in the world.” The khameeri - as not to offend their Hindu guests. which means 'leavened' - roti is indeed Back to the present, and before me is very good. Fluffy, with a hint of a plate containing an assortment of sourness, it effortlessly mops up the kebabs. Intrigued by the idea of a dahi ghosht ki nihari that Jiggs recommends kebab, I begin by cutting into its crisp with it. “Soak it, soak it,” he urges, “The crust. The inside consists of delectably bread needs to absorb the nihari, not kiss creamy, tangy, spiced yoghurt cheese. it!” The nihari, he tells me, was “I've trained the chefs to use a rice flour traditionally served as to give coating instead of breadcrumbs,” says the menfolk strength for the day - the Jiggs, “and that makes a world of marrow that seeps into the gravy is difference.” highly nutritious and adds a glossy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy To my mind, the test of any kitchen green.” The accompanying ulta tawa flowers, and the meat has the sheen to the curry. He encourages me to and mildly spiced; the gilafi comprises a Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy naan base topped with puff pastry. It isn't that dishes out kebabs is its ability to get paratha is thin enough that it consistency of a soft cheese. Turning breach etiquette and suck out every last Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy the gelawati right. Jamavar's gelawati is complements rather than suffocates the next to the smoky Aminabad ki khaas drop of marrow. “Always eat only for as soft as Jiggs would like it to be. Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy perfect. The meat has the right pâté-like rich flavour of the kebab. seekh, I remark that it is drier than most yourself,” he admonishes as I throw Another chef is summoned and asked to Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy consistency and texture; the kebab sings “Now try the murgh paarchay,” Jiggs other seekhs I've tried. “That's partly caution to the winds. adjust the upper and lower heat of the on the palate. The unusual kick of spice, urges. “It's my favourite.” And no because it incorporates less fat,” Next, I sample the gilafi kulcha with oven to Jiggs' exact specifications. . Sigh. I manage only a couple of Jiggs informs me, “comes from yellow wonder. The piccata of chicken is explains Jiggs even as he bellows for the an aloo qorma. The qorma is sweetish I opt to eat the sheermal by itself - it's mouthfuls of daal panchmael, made from chillies, which are sharper than red or fragrant with kewra, or pandanus chef to appear at the table. “It needs to a personal favourite. This is an a mixture of five different daals, each impossibly rich bread, made with flour, have a little more fat,” he tells him garnished separately. Dessert, however, Kaliya versus Qorma sternly. He remarks that everyone ghee, milk (full-fat, not skimmed!) and is too unusual to forgo: Kiwi fruit phirni. thinks he's hard to work with. “It's just Dum means “to breathe” and pukht immoderate quantities of . “The Suffice it to say that the slight citrus Kaliya and qorma are the best-known styles of Avadhi curry. that I seek perfection, and demand it “to cook”. In this style of , nawabs lived decadently; everything tang of the kiwi goes a long way towards Kaliya is traditionally prepared with large quantities of water. It is thinner in from the kitchen,” he says somewhat ingredients are placed in a handi was larger than life, including their offsetting the ghee-loaded meal we've consistency, but not watery; and in Avadhi cuiine, it is a little spicier than a that is sealed with dough, ensuring plaintively. Jimmy, Jamavar's manager, food,” says Jiggs. “Every meal was just sampled. qorma. that all moisture remains trapped, agrees. “I don't think he's hard to work special, and every banquet was an I leave with a full stomach, a causing the food to cook in its own Qorma, on the other hand, refers to pre-marinated, braised ingredients that with,” he clarifies. “His passion for food opportunity to curry political favour. yearning for the graciousness of a are allowed to cook in their own juices. Water is used only to prevent the meat steam, or “breath”. Flavours and is inspiring. It's infectious. And it pushes They went all out to impress.” bygone era, and - I think - the promise of or vegetables from sticking to the pan. Qormas are more delicately flavoured, fragrances are perfectly preserved, us to raise the bar on quality.” The sheermal makes it impossible for a new friendship. Thank you Jiggs! and are creamier in texture without being too heavy. as is nutritive content. By now, the raan is cold. Jiggs insists me to sample the bakarkhani or the dum

03 3rd Quarter 2007 3rd Quarter 2007 04 Cuisine watch

the two cuisines are, at best, distant that a fresh serving be brought out. By cousins. the time it arrives, he's talking about his By now, Jiggs has ordered a kebab kids. I place the first morsel in my platter. Although many believe that mouth, cutting him short mid- kebabs were 'discovered' by Turk sentence. “Stop talking and give me a soldiers, who skewered meat with their moment to savour this raan in peace,” I swords and grilled it over open fires, blurt out. Photographer Sharmila Shah historical evidence belies the notion. freezes at my temerity – but Jiggs is The twelfth-century Chalukyan ruler delighted. “This is how food should be Somadeva (1127-1138 A.D.) wrote a enjoyed,” he tells her, much to my relief. treatise called Manasollasa, in which he The recipe for this particular raan, he describes a dish called bhaditraka. tells me, was gifted to the kitchens of Involving meat stuffed with spices and Avadh by Changez Khan's descendant roasted on spits, bhaditraka sounds Timur the Lame. suspiciously like a kebab! In the case of While we're waiting for our entrées, Avadh, however, it is most likely that Jiggs tells us about the bread basket he's the kebab did filter down through the ordered. “Rural women had to rise early, centuries and the generations of Turkish so they'd keep the dough beside the and central Asian soldiers who served in warm angeethi at night to ferment and the armies of the Delhi Sultanate and rise. In the morning all they needed to the Mughal empire. While the Mughals do was roll out the roti. It's the best originally used minced beef in their sourdough bread I've ever tasted kebabs, the nawabs substituted lamb so anywhere in the world.” The khameeri - as not to offend their Hindu guests. which means 'leavened' - roti is indeed Back to the present, and before me is very good. Fluffy, with a hint of a plate containing an assortment of sourness, it effortlessly mops up the kebabs. Intrigued by the idea of a dahi ghosht ki nihari that Jiggs recommends kebab, I begin by cutting into its crisp with it. “Soak it, soak it,” he urges, “The crust. The inside consists of delectably bread needs to absorb the nihari, not kiss creamy, tangy, spiced yoghurt cheese. it!” The nihari, he tells me, was “I've trained the chefs to use a rice flour traditionally served as breakfast to give coating instead of breadcrumbs,” says the menfolk strength for the day - the Jiggs, “and that makes a world of marrow that seeps into the gravy is difference.” highly nutritious and adds a glossy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy To my mind, the test of any kitchen green.” The accompanying ulta tawa flowers, and the meat has the sheen to the curry. He encourages me to and mildly spiced; the gilafi comprises a Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy naan base topped with puff pastry. It isn't that dishes out kebabs is its ability to get paratha is thin enough that it consistency of a soft cheese. Turning breach etiquette and suck out every last Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy the gelawati right. Jamavar's gelawati is complements rather than suffocates the next to the smoky Aminabad ki khaas drop of marrow. “Always eat only for as soft as Jiggs would like it to be. Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy perfect. The meat has the right pâté-like rich flavour of the kebab. seekh, I remark that it is drier than most yourself,” he admonishes as I throw Another chef is summoned and asked to Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy consistency and texture; the kebab sings “Now try the murgh paarchay,” Jiggs other seekhs I've tried. “That's partly caution to the winds. adjust the upper and lower heat of the on the palate. The unusual kick of spice, urges. “It's my favourite.” And no because it incorporates less fat,” Next, I sample the gilafi kulcha with oven to Jiggs' exact specifications. biryani. Sigh. I manage only a couple of Jiggs informs me, “comes from yellow wonder. The piccata of chicken is explains Jiggs even as he bellows for the an aloo qorma. The qorma is sweetish I opt to eat the sheermal by itself - it's mouthfuls of daal panchmael, made from chillies, which are sharper than red or fragrant with kewra, or pandanus chef to appear at the table. “It needs to a personal favourite. This is an a mixture of five different daals, each impossibly rich bread, made with flour, have a little more fat,” he tells him Dum Pukht garnished separately. Dessert, however, Kaliya versus Qorma sternly. He remarks that everyone ghee, milk (full-fat, not skimmed!) and is too unusual to forgo: Kiwi fruit phirni. thinks he's hard to work with. “It's just Dum means “to breathe” and pukht immoderate quantities of saffron. “The Suffice it to say that the slight citrus Kaliya and qorma are the best-known styles of Avadhi curry. that I seek perfection, and demand it “to cook”. In this style of cooking, nawabs lived decadently; everything tang of the kiwi goes a long way towards Kaliya is traditionally prepared with large quantities of water. It is thinner in from the kitchen,” he says somewhat ingredients are placed in a handi was larger than life, including their offsetting the ghee-loaded meal we've consistency, but not watery; and in Avadhi cuiine, it is a little spicier than a that is sealed with dough, ensuring plaintively. Jimmy, Jamavar's manager, food,” says Jiggs. “Every meal was just sampled. qorma. that all moisture remains trapped, agrees. “I don't think he's hard to work special, and every banquet was an I leave with a full stomach, a causing the food to cook in its own Qorma, on the other hand, refers to pre-marinated, braised ingredients that with,” he clarifies. “His passion for food opportunity to curry political favour. yearning for the graciousness of a are allowed to cook in their own juices. Water is used only to prevent the meat steam, or “breath”. Flavours and is inspiring. It's infectious. And it pushes They went all out to impress.” bygone era, and - I think - the promise of or vegetables from sticking to the pan. Qormas are more delicately flavoured, fragrances are perfectly preserved, us to raise the bar on quality.” The sheermal makes it impossible for a new friendship. Thank you Jiggs! and are creamier in texture without being too heavy. as is nutritive content. By now, the raan is cold. Jiggs insists me to sample the bakarkhani or the dum

03 3rd Quarter 2007 3rd Quarter 2007 04 with a lid and smoke for 30 minutes. in water for 3, 3 and 2 minutes 6 green cardamom Recipes 5 cloves Uncover, remove the katori/ metal respectively. Drain, refresh in iced bowl and divide the smoked mince water and drain when ready to cook. 60gm (strain) into 16 equal portions, make balls The potatoes: Peel, quar ter 45gm paste (strain) AH-DE-CHANGESI and flatten between the palms into lengthwise, turn to make dholki, and 15gm bojwaar masala* ¼” thick round . boil in salted water until cooked but 3gm red chilli powder Raan THE COOKING not soft. Drain and keep aside. 1.5gm powder INGREDIENTS Heat enough ghee/ clarified butter on The green peas: Wash and then boil 1.5gm powder 8 nalli/shanks of kid/lamb (from a mahi tawa or an ordinary tawa/ until cooked but not soft. Drain, 5 bay leaf raan; 5” long bone) griddle or even a pan, add the refresh in iced water and drain again 2 sticks (1”) Clarified butter to brush and baste patties in convenient batches and when ready to cook. 12 black peppercorns braised nalli cook over low heat for 3-4 minutes, The yoghurt mixture: Put yoghurt in a 2gm cumin seeds The First turning once. bowl, add red chillies and , 75gm flour of roasted channa/gram TO SERVE and whisk until fully incorporated. 6gm red chilli powder Place a paper doiley on platter, The : Clean, wash and finely The Accompaniments Salt to rub arrange the patties on top and serve chop coriander. 6.5gm coriander (chop) 30gm ginger paste (strain) with , lemon wedges and raw Cooking 2.5gm mint (chop) 15gm garlic paste (strain) mango or coriander 'n' mint chutney. Heat ghee in a handi/pan, add Lemon Wedges cardamom, cloves, chinnamon, bay Onions (lachcha) 90ml red wine SUBZ DORMA BEGHUM HAZRAT leaves and cumin seeds, and stir over Serves: 4 The MAHAL medium heat until the cardamom Preparation Time: 45 minutes cooking oil to baste Ingredients Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy begins to change colour. Add the Cooking Time: 2 hours remaining ingredients and enough 300gm carrots 6 cloves Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy garlic paste, ginger paste and salt. PREPARATION water to cover the shanks, and braise 150gm turnips 5 green cardamom o Bhunno/ stir-fry until the moisture THE FLOUR OF ROASTED CHANNA/ in a pre-heated oven (400 F) until the 150gm pumpkin 2 black cardamom 60gm roasted almonds (chop) evaporates, remove handi/pan from GRAM: Roast over very low heat on a liquor begins to boil. Then reduce 150gm potatoes o Butter for heat, stir-in the yoghurt mixture, tawa/griddle until it emits its unique 3 bay leaf oven temperature to for 150 F and 100gm green peas 60gm yoghurt cheese / hung yoghurt return handi/ pan to heat and aroma (approx 1-2 minutes). 2 sticks cinnamon (1”) braise for one hour. Remove and 50gm clarified butter The bhunno/stir-fry until the fat leaves the COOKING 12 black peppercorns discard the liquor. Brush the racks 3 green cardamom 4 green cardamom side. Then add the fried paste, Heat ghee in a handi/pan, add half 12 rose petals with olive oil and keep aside. 2 cloves 12.5gm clarified butter bhunno/stir-fry until the fat leaves the the onions and fry over medium heat Salt THE MINCE: Put all the ingredients in 1stick cinnamon (1”) sides, add stock, bring to a boil, until golden and crisp. Remove (to The Mince a bowl, mix well and divide into eight Serves 4 2 bay leaves reduce to low heat and simmer for 3-4 absorbent paper to drain excess fat) 250gm kid/lamb mince (from the equal portions. Preparation Time : 1:45 hours 2gm cumin seeds minutes. Remove and pass the gravy for garnish. Reheat ghee, add 2 green Raan/Leg) THE COATING: Using a moist hand, Cooking Time: 3-4 minutes/ batch 20gm garlic paste (Strain) through a fine-mesh soup strainer cardamom and 2 cloves, stir over spread the mince to cover the meat, PREPARATION 20gm ginger paste (strain) 60gm cheese (processed / cheddar; into a separate handi/pan. Return medium heat until the cardamom pressing firmly to maintain the THE SAFFRON: Crush the threads with Salt grate) gravy to heat, add the blanched and begins to change colour. Then add the original shape. a pestle or the back of a spoon, 120gm yoghurt 10gm ginger paste (strain) o cooked vegetables, bring to a boil remaining onions, saute until THE OVEN: Pre-heat to 350 F. reserve in hot milk for 10 minutes and 3gm coriander powder then reduce to low heat and simmer, translucent and glossy, add ginger 10gm garlic paste (strain) grind into a paste. 3gm red chilli powder COOKING stirring occasionally, until the gravy is and garlic pastes, stir-fry until the 2.25gm special masala THE KEBAB: Put mince in a bowl, add 75gm paste Arrange the nalli in a greased tray and of sauce consistency. Sprinkle moisture evaporates, add bojwaar 1.5gm kashmiri deghi mirch powder the remaining ingredients, except 720ml vegetable stock roast in the pre-heated oven for 7-8 pepper, cloves, cinnamon, green masala, allspice, red chilli and Salt roasted channa and ghee, mix well 1.5gm minutes, basting at regular intervals. cardamom and mace powders, stir, turmeric (dissolved in 60ml of water) Serves 4 and reserve for 30 minutes. Then add (Freshly roasted & coarsely ground) remove and adjust the . and bhunno/stir-fry until the moisture Preparation Time: 3 hour SHAHI GILAAWAT KA KEBAB the flour of roasted channa, mix well 0.75gm clove powder To serve evaporates. Add meat, stir for a few Cooking Time: 10 minutes Ingredients and reserve for 10 minutes. 0.75gm cinnamon powder Remove to a service dish, garnish with seconds, add 2.5 litres of water, bring PREPARATION 960gm kid/lamb mince (twice THE SMOKING: Crush the green 0.75gm green cardamom powder coriander and green chillies, and to a boil, reduce to very low heat and THE NALLI MARINATION: Forcefully minced) cardamom. Heat the clarified butter in 0.375gm mace powder serve with Khameeri Roti simmer, stirring at regular intervals rub–as– in,, massage–the– shanks with 45gm clotted cream a frying pan, add the crushed green 3.25gm coriander until the meat is cooked and the liquor red chillies. Repeat process with salt, 60gm onion (finely chop) cardamom, stir over low heat until 2 green chillies NIHARI reduced by one half. Now add the then with ginger paste, garlic paste 10gm ginger (finely chop) brown, remove and keep aside. Serves 4 INGREDIENTS remaining ingredients including fried and, finally, with wine vinegar. 6gm galouti masala (see appendix) Put a few small pieces of 'live' Preparation Time: 45 minutes 8 Kid/Lamb onions, cardamom and cloves, bring ( R e m e m b e r, e a c h o f t h e s e 90gm flour of roasted channa charcoal in a small katori/ metal bowl, (Plus time taken to make stock) 8 nalli/shanks of kid/lamb (4”; 45gm to a boil, remove and adjust the ingredients is to be rubbed separately (Gram) place the katori/ metal bowl in a large Cooking Time: 30 minutes meat on each) seasoning. and not as mixture). Refrigerate for 30 1gm saffron handi/ pan and spread the mince Preparation 250gm shoulder of kid/lamb TO SERVE minutes. 20gm fried onion paste around the katori/ metal bowl. The carrots, turnips & pumpkin: Peel, (2” boned cubes) Remove to a bowl, and serve with THE BRAISING: Rub the shanks with 30ml milk (warm) Sprinkle the stirred green cardamom wash, and cut into 2” x ¼” x ¼” batons 100gm clarified butter Sheermal, Kulcha or Paratha and oil, arrange in a tray, add the Salt on, the charcoal, pour on ghee, cover respectively. Blanch each separately 200gm onions (slice)

05 3rd Quarter 2007 3rd Quarter 2007 06 coriander, mint and lemon wedges. in mortar and pound with pestle to Note: break spices, fold in piece of muslin There is a tradition in the bazaar–and and secure with enough string for it to in many homes–of Hyderabad to add hang over the rim of handi/pan. a Potli ka Masala () of COOKING Khus ki Jarh, Paan ki Jarh, Gulaab ki Heat ghee in a handi/pan, add the Patti, Sandal ka Powder and Pathar ke green cardamom, cloves and phool ke phool. These items, cinnamon, stir over medium heat until according to Akbar, make the Nihari cardamom changes colour, add bitter unless the proportions are onions, saute over medium heat until perfect. Without them, the Nihari is translucent and glossy, add the ginger thinner–and tastier. and garlic pastes, bhunno/stir-fry The more commonly made Nihari is until onions are light golden. Then add with paya or trotters. the chicken, increase to high heat and bhunno/stir-fry (to sear) for 1-2 TANGRI PULAO minutes. Reduce to medium heat, INGREDIENTS add red chilli and turmeric powders 300gm basmati rice (dissolved in 30ml of water), cover 15ml lemon juice and cook, stirring occasionally, until The Bouquet Garni chicken is 3/4ths cooked (approx 10- Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy 18 black peppercorns 12 minutes; add small quantities of Dummy Copy Dummy Copy Dummy Copy 6 green cardamom water at regular intervals to prevent 5 cloves sticking). Now add tomato puree, PREPARATION 3 black cardamom bhunno/stir-fry until the fat leaves the THE KIWI: Put sugar and 45ml of 2 stick cinnamon (1”) sides, add stock (or water), bring to a b water in a frying pan, add diced kiwi 2 bay leaves oil, reduce to medium heat, coriander, and powder, bring to a boil, The Chicken mint and green chillies, stir, add rice reduce to low heat and simmer until 12 chicken drumsticks and the bouquet garni, stir, bring to a the liquid is fully absorbed. 90gm clarified butter boil. Reduce to low heat, add salt, THE PHIRNEE: Put 90ml of water in a 5 green cardamom sprinkle lemon juice, stir, cover and bowl, add rice flour and stir to mix well. 5 cloves simmer (without stirring) until the rice Crush with pestle or back of spoon, 2 stick cinnamon (1”) is cooked and the gravy is fully reserve in 15ml of lukewarm milk for 5 100gm onions (slice) absorbed. Remove, discard the minutes and then make a paste. 30gm ginger paste (strain) bouquet garni and adjust the COOKING 15gm garlic paste (strain) seasoning. Put the remaining milk in a 3gm red chilli powder TO SERVE handi/pan, bring to a boil, reduce to 3gm turmeric powder Garnish with ginger and cashewnuts low heat and simmer until reduced by 100ml tomato puree (fresh) and serve from the handi/pan itself, a quarter. Add the rice flour mixture 1 litre clear kid/lamb stock with Raita. and cook, stirring constantly (to Salt ensure that the rice does not stick), 6.5gm coriander (sprigs) KIWI KI PHIRNEE until of thick custard consistency. 2.5gm mint leaf INGREDIENTS Then add sugar, cardamom powder Green chillies (seed and cut into 1” The Fruit and saffron, and stir until the mixture strips) 250gm kiwi (peel & dice) is of custard consistency. To check, 10gm piece ginger (juliennes) 55gm sugar spread a spoon on a plate, if it sets (a 24 cashewnuts (roasted) 0.75gm nutmeg powder thin film will form on the surface Serves 4 Preparation Time: 1 hour The Phirnee within moments), the consistency is Cooking Time: 45 minutes 1.02 litres milk right. Remove and keep aside. PREPARATION 30gm basmati rice flour ASSEMBLING THE RICE: Pick rice, wash in running 225gm sugar Spread third of the Phirnee in a deep water, drain, transfer to a separate 3gm green cardamom powder bowl, evenly spread a third of the kiwi handi/pan, add the bouquet garni 1gm saffron on top. Repeat the process twice and and reserve for 45 minutes. Drain at 30ml milk refrigerate. the time of cooking. Reserve the 1.25 kg yield bouquet garni. Preparation Time: 20 minutes THE BOUQUET GARNI: Put ingredients Cooking Time: 45 minutes

07 3rd Quarter 2007