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Home , Organ Mountains, The North Face

East Side Routes of the Organ Mountains

By John Hymer

The Organ Mountains are located about sixty miles north of El Paso, Texas in southern . The history of in the Organs is vague prior to the 1940s when a group of German rocket scientists, working at nearby White Sands Missile Range, began climbing technical routes. Notably, Royal Robbins established routes in Organs while stationed at nearby in the 1950’s. Dr. Richard L. Ingraham, a long time professor at New Mexico State University in Las Cruces was also active in the early days. Dr. Ingraham authored the area’s first guidebook, “A Climbing Guide to the Organ Mountains” in 1965.

Sugarloaf, perched high above White Sands, is perhaps the most prominent peak in the range. It was from the summit of Sugarloaf that I became intrigued with the “The Great East Faces” as Dr. Ingraham described the east face of the and its adjacent walls. I spent hours studying a prominent buttress in the background of my summit photos taken in the 1980s. Minerva’s Temple, the formation to the southeast of the Organ Needle, became an obsession.

In June of 2000, Dave and I began exploring an approach to the base of Minerva’s Temple from Aguirre Spring, the east side of the Organ Mountains. We found that approaching via the Sugarloaf trail was most straightforward and required the least amount of “bushwacking.” Continue past Sugarloaf and around the south side of a large rocky knoll, find the ravine to the south of upper Indian Hollow, a heavily vegetated drainage originating between the Organ Needle and Minerva’s Temple. Indian Hollow continues northeastward toward White Sand’s main post. The approach favors the south bank of the ravine until crossing to the north near the base of the cliffs. The three mile approach takes approximately three hours.

North Face/East Ridge of Minerva’s Temple

Dave Head, Jason Spier, and I established the North Face/East Ridge of Minerva’s Temple in an eight day effort culminating in a final two day push on September 9 th and 10 th of 2000. We began establishing the route in late June, typically accomplishing only one each day on the lower, overhanging pitches. With a summit near 9,000 feet in elevation, and most of the route facing north, even the hottest summer days were comfortable (if not cold) while climbing. We used a standard rack of runners, wires, aliens, and to #3. Bolts were placed only where needed and for belay and/or rappel anchors. Where the angle eases up after the 6 th pitch, we chose to bivy to allow time for a final push to the summit. Although established as a V, it borderlines Grade IV, and is typically climbed in a single long day. Figure headlamps for the approach and walk out. Two ropes and rain gear are mandatory.

East Face of the Organ Needle

In May of 2001, we began an attempt of the East Face of the Organ Needle . After approaching from the Pine Tree Trail, we determined it more practical to use the same approach as for Minerva’s Temple. We reached a previous party’s high point on the second day at the top of our 5 th pitch. Fixed pins on a steep headwall mark their high point. We stepped left about fifteen feet, place one (the only protection bolt on the route) and turned a shallow 5.10 roof. Quality exposed climbing on the next few pitches lead to easier ground. We summited on July 6, 2001 after 5 days of work. I referenced the Marathon and Lost routes in a correspondence with Dr. Ingraham while inquiring about the fixed gear…

I checked with my Guide, and found that what I named the E Face of the Needle is what you label the E Face Route… in your picture. (More precisely, I called that the south half of the E Face.) It’s the one that Paul and I attempted twice but were unable to finish. It has the great Black Spot on it. The northern half was what I was calling the “E Face” in our telephone conversation. It should properly be called the NE Face, I think. With the greatest rise of rock of any face in the Organs I still think it is the greatest challenge left in the Organs. R. L. Ingraham -- October 11, 2003

Dave Head and I returned on July 9, 2003 to climb Variation A which proceeds left after pitch 7. The new 8 th pitch is on good rock with Alien placements about twenty five feet apart.

On August 2, 2003 Dave Head, Jason Spier, and I established Variation B which diverges from the original line after pitch 6 resulting in an eighty foot pitch with 5.10 layback moves on lichen covered rock. The two hundred foot pitch 8 leads to a cave where we comfortably waited out a rain storm while enjoying a great view of the upper section of Minerva’s Temple .

Take a full set of wire stoppers, full set of tri-cams, and 1-#1, 2-#2’s, 2-#3’s and 1-#4 Camalots, a full set of Aliens, including the smallest (black), or comparable Technical Friends. Also, take ten runners and about six . Two ropes are required on all east side routes.

Southeast Face of Minerva’s Temple

Dave Head and I completed the Southeast Face of Minerva’s Temple on September 7, 2002 after seven days of effort. This route has some of the best rock in the Organ Mountains but has yet to go free. The overhanging finger crack on the 6 th pitch remains A-1. The 9 th pitch links up with the North Face/East Ridge Route . Take the standard rack and, perhaps, a pair of aiders.

Dave Head on the 6 th Pitch of the Southeast Face of Minerva’s Temple (photo: John Hymer)

East Buttress of Minerva’s Temple

On May 6, 2007 Dave Head and I teamed up once again. This time we began work on the East Buttress of Minerva’s Temple . It begins about twenty feet left of the North Face/East Ridge Route . After a ten day effort, we re-joined the N Face/East Ridge Route at Onion Ledge. Surprisingly we discovered a fixed and ¼” bolt with a SMC hanger near the top of our second pitch. It appeared to mark the high spot of a route that traversed in from the left. Again, take the standard Organ rack. Use caution when rappelling. While rappelling from Onion Ledge, our rope was cut in half by rock fall. It made for an interesting rappel to the ground.