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INDEPENDENT PUBLICATION BY RACONTEUR.NET #0592 29/05/2019 THE FASHION ECONOMY

REWRITING THE RULE PATAGONIA FOUNDER BRANDS IN THE MODEST 03 BOOK ON SUSTAINABILITY 06 CALLS ON BRANDS TO ACT 15 FASHION REVOLUTION

Suuer is coming... INDEPENDENT PUBLICATION BY RACONTEUR.NET #0592 29/05/2019 RACONTEUR.NET 03

THE FASHION INDUSTRY STANDARDS ECONOMY Why brands need to Fashion doesn’t Distributed in rewrite the rule book

Published in association with When higher consumption equals bigger profits, the balance between sustainable always work out. practices and traditional business models is becoming increasingly difficult for brands

Ana Santi “Just 1p per garment?” questions Contributors Graeme Raeburn, performance That’s where we come in. ustainability is like teenage director at fashion brand Raeburn. Oliver Balch Charles Orton-Jones S sex: everyone says they're “Look what a 5p tax did for carrier Journalist specialising in Award-winning doing it, but very few are bags. Be brave and apply this to tex- sustainability, business journalist, he was actually doing it right. It has been tiles: a £10 per kilo deposit scheme and travel. He is the editor-at-large of ten years since American sustain- – a pair of men’s jeans weighs author of travelogues on LondonlovesBusiness. South America, India com and editor of ability entrepreneur Joel Makower 250g – or a supplier credit system. and Wales. EuroBusiness magazine. first coined this now-infamous Suppliers would be forced to design ReBOUND specialises in retail returns phrase, but it makes regular come- better-quality products, or more Olivia Gagan Ana Santi backs, most recently at this year’s suitable for fibre-to-fibre recycling, management. With online fashion return Journalist writing about Freelance journalist, she Drapers Sustainable Fashion confer- if they knew consumers would energy, sustainability writes in-depth features ence. The quote is always met with bring them back at end of life to rates upwards of 30%, do your returns and culture for titles on a range of subjects, laughter, but its longevity reminds claim the deposit. In the same way including The Times, from current affairs and Getty Images via Images/LightRocket Chukrut/SOPA Budrul need some attention? The New York Times culture, to healthcare, us of the fashion industry's gla- we cultivated a voracious consumer and Time Out London. technology and logistics. cial pace towards a solution for the market – aka fast fashion – in the havoc it wreaks on human rights UK, we can surely pioneer novel, Alexandra Leonards Gouri Sharma and the environment. creative alternatives.” Freelance journalist, she Independent journalist In February, a UK parliamentary Alongside industry standards and writes in-depth features formerly with Al Jazeera committee issued a reprimand for legislation, fashion must tackle the on a range of subjects, English, she writes from current affairs and extensively on culture, the way we make, use and throw root causes of why we have reached culture, to healthcare, current affairs and away clothes. Around 300,000 such reckless levels of waste and technology and logistics. emerging trends. tonnes of textiles, worth £140 mil- consumption. Professor Dilys lion, is sent to landfill or incinera- Williams, director of the Centre for Jim McClelland Sharon tors every year. Textile production Sustainable Fashion at the London Sustainable futurist, Thiruchelvam contributes more to climate change College of Fashion, University of speaker and writer, his Writer specialising in than international aviation and the Arts London, believes climate specialisms include built culture and innovation, shipping combined. change should be part of school environment, corporate she contributes to The “Fashion shouldn’t cost the Earth, and sell clothes at speed. When the a sustainable way,” says Rebecca curriculums. “The whole system is social responsibility and Independent, i-D, Vice but it is on track to consume a quar- single biggest thing a fashion con- Thomson, head of commercial con- broken,” she says. “How can govern- ecosystem services. and Forbes. ter of our carbon budget by 2050. sumer can do to help mitigate envi- tent at Drapers. “The two – sustain- ment incentivise businesses that

The industry has a responsibility ronmental damage is to buy fewer ability and growth – can absolutely emit high levels of CO2? We need to set out how it will be a net-zero clothes, how does H&M rationalise co-exist, but there is upfront cost new ways of defining what business carbon emitter,” says Mary Creagh, its business model? and businesses need to view it as is. The current model undervalues chair of the Commons environmen- “Currently a large proportion a long-term investment to ensure nature and the underlying princi- tal audit select committee, which of textiles cannot be recycled, so they are keeping up with their con- ples of humanity.” made recommendations to govern- increased consumption is directly sumers.” In a recent report, the Professor Williams says busi- Publishing manager Head of production ment. The verdict was clear: fash- linked to an increase in waste,” says fashion trade magazine found that nesses must ask themselves how Rebekah Robinson Justyna O'Connell ion had marked its own homework Ms Waltier. “But we can close the gap half of Generation Z shoppers had they can create prosperity in four for too long. between consumption and waste by abandoned purchases because a dimensions: nature, economy, Associate editor Digital content executive “We absolutely support the work transforming to a circular business retailer didn’t match their sustain- society and environment. And Peter Archer Fran Cassidy of the committee, but for positive model, whereby we only create prod- able values. she sees hope in young designers Managing editor Design systemic change to take place, the ucts made using materials that can The Commons select committee such as Bethany Williams and Sara Benjamin Chiou Joanna Bird introduction of industry standards be recycled and regenerated, and by called for a 1p charge per garment Arnold, and Ms Arnold’s clothing Grant Chapman needs to tackle multiple elements of maximising existing resources.” to be placed on retailers and pro- subscription and rental business Sara Gelfgren the supply chain and involve collab- However, retailers cannot con- ducers to pay for better clothing Higher.Studio. “But you need to Kellie Jerrard Harry Lewis-Irlam oration among all parties, including tinue to just make more “stuff”, how- collection and recycling. The MPs look at change across the system,” Celina Lucey governments, brands, third-party ever sustainably made; they must also called for the chancellor to use says Professor Williams, crediting Samuele Motta experts, trade unions and NGOs,” also look for new revenue streams, the tax system to shift the balance luxury group Kering for its intro- says Giorgina Waltier, sustainability including a service-driven model of incentives in favour of reuse, duction of an environmental prof- Head of design manager for H&M UK and Ireland. of repair and rental. “This will be repair and recycling to support it-and-loss account. “It shows a hor- Tim Whitlock H&M aims to ensure 100 per cent of the only way to achieve growth in responsible companies. rific debt to nature, but it’s a bold its materials are sustainably sourced move and will become something

Although this publication is funded through advertising and by 2030; currently the figure is 57 per that investors will look at.” sponsorship, all editorial is without bias and sponsored features cent. By 2020, it pledges to increase To hope for a single industry are clearly labelled. For an upcoming schedule, partnership its use of recycled or sustainably standard in a market with a hugely inquiries or feedback, please call +44 (0)20 3877 3800 or sourced cotton from 95 to 100 per 100% complicated supply chain is unre- email [email protected] cent. “We have joined the Swedish increase in the number of units alistic. But to dismiss any form of Raconteur is a leading publisher of special-interest content and research group RISE in their project of clothing produced between measure is lazy and irresponsible. Start your returns research. Its publications and articles cover a wide range of topics, 2000 and 2015 MinShed, which aims to find meth- A set of standards, backed by legis- including business, finance, sustainability, healthcare, lifestyle and Ellen MacArthur Foundation 2017 technology. Raconteur special reports are published exclusively in ods of designing clothes with min- lation, is a necessity. And it’s excit- revolution today The Times and The Sunday Times as well as online at raconteur.net imised microfibre shedding,” Ms ing. “We have the heritage, best The information contained in this publication has been obtained Waltier adds. “On hm.com you can colleges, expertise and a market from sources the Proprietors believe to be correct. However, now see which factory every item we receptive to new experiences; we no legal liability can be accepted for any errors. No part of this sell was produced in. Transparency number10 of times 300k are primed to be global leaders in publication may be reproduced without the prior consent of the drives positive change.” the average tonnes of textile waste ends up responsible, accountable fashion,” www.reboundreturns.com Publisher. © Raconteur Media Yet for all this good work, H&M garment is worn in household black bins every Mr Raeburn concludes. “To ignore is part of the fast-fashion model, before disposal year in the UK this opportunity is not only reck- @raconteur /raconteur.net @raconteur_london driving changing trends to make Boston Consulting Group 2018 Environmental Audit Committee 2019 less, but terrible business sense.”

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THE FASHION INDUSTRY STANDARDS ECONOMY Why brands need to Fashion doesn’t Distributed in rewrite the rule book

raconteur.net /fashion-economy-2019 04 THE FASHION ECONOMY RACONTEUR.NET 05 Commercial feature

her grandmother’s work as a cou- value-added fashion,” she says. ture seamstress, her designs sit at That’s the brands and prod- mid-range price points, with a wool ucts which can generate the big- dress retailing at £225. From the gest margins. Besides high-end outset, she has manufactured her designer fashion, where margins clothes in the UK in two London are strong, this can also mean factories which pay their staff the investing in startups where the £10.55 London living wage. inputs are typically far smaller Ms Waring says the benefits than the revenues they can gener- of choosing UK manufacturing ate, says Dr Dhingra. include clear supply chain visibility; she visits the factories in per- son every week. As a startup, it is also far cheaper for her to travel to factories in the UK than in China. It also makes for short lead times. The Debbie dress from her current We would have to SS19 collection has been a hit with customers, selling out. Earlier this double our prices month, stock needed to be quickly because of the replenished. From placing an order with her factories to having replen- margin that is taken ished rails of dresses was a two- week turnaround, she says. by wholesalers But as her business scales up, Ms and retailers Waring has found there is a lack of UK factories capable of producing for growing fashion brands. “In push people to think in a different way. REINDUSTRIALISATION OF BRITAIN London, there are micro-factories, But for startups, choosing UK fac- If a company sees sustainability only as where they’re making perhaps 150 tories can mean making business British fashion’s a regulation, or a constraint and a cost, units a week, and then much bigger decisions which favour principles that is not sustainability,” she says. factories producing 30,000 units over profit margins. For example, Ms Kering’s billion-dollar business has in the same time,” she says. “For Waring says manufacturing in the enabled it to build free-to-use online Can and should brands with a medium-sized scale UK wouldn’t be possible if she sold trade bible courses on sustainable luxury fash- of production, there’s less choice.” wholesale. “We would have to dou- ion with the London College of Fash- Burberry’s abandoned factory ble our prices because of the mar- ion; its first intake saw 10,000 students plan was dubbed Project Artisan gin that is taken by wholesalers and The fashion industry reinvents itself sign up. At the other end of the finan- manufacturing when it was in development. retailers,” she says, adding that she cial spectrum, small British womenswear Dr Dhingra says instead of try- instead chooses to sell direct to con- constantly, and with this comes ever- label Birdsong is hiring pensioners and ing to lure fast-fashion retailers sumers through her brand website. low-income migrant women, and pay- to UK factories, choosing to focus Ms Waring says her decisions, from evolving challenges and opportunities ing them above the London living wage to be brought home? on the centuries-old artisanal visiting factories weekly to paying produce its clothes. skills deployed in higher-end a living wage, are a no-brainer for As the British fashion industry’s trade fashion may be the most eco- any fashion business that claims to bible, we are used to talking business. Brands have long relied on production are capacity constraints,” she says. nomically viable way to boost UK operate with a conscience. She says: ashion reflects the moods and ing is worn just seven times. Westminster But consumers are also leading this Brexit raises questions of whether fashion manufacturing. “I wouldn’t run a brand that involves F demands of every era, from is making moves to curb this, proposing change. On the high street and when overseas, where labour is cheaper international workers will be will- “Speaking as an economist, slave labour or pays people so little the introduction of Sunday tax breaks for fashion retailers that offer spending online, a shift in mindset is ing and able to work in the UK, you should be investing in high money they can’t afford to live.” trading in 1994 – the same year Ama- repairs and considering a one-penny happening. Data gathered in our Con- and economies of scale have enabled and developing talent within the zon launched, ushering in 24/7 shop- producer responsibility charge on each nected Consumer: Multichannel Insight UK could take years. As a result, ping – to the British high street’s battle to item of clothing. Report reveals just over a fifth of all shop- strong growth. But post-Brexit, the organisations have been pushing retain relevance over the past decade, to As a result of this growing pressure, we pers (21 per cent) now say a brand’s sus- TRADE BALANCE IN UK FASHION MANUFACTURING reindustrialisation of Britain, for the textiles for seamstresses to be able to enter today’s question of whether fashion can are witnessing retailers make fundamen- tainability record is likely to influence the UK under skill-specific visas. Gross value added of textiles, wearing apparel and leather industry (£bn) be a truly sustainable industry. tal shifts to their business practices to whether they buy or not. And it is a skill. The production Fashion trade title Drapers has per- make sustainability a core part of their Sustainable practices are becoming industry at least, could prove attractive Imports Exports Balance techniques required, particularly sisted throughout these changes as the business model. This is happening across habitual with consumers. From aban- by high fashion and designer lines leading resource for the fashion busi- the industry, from global conglomerates doning carrier bags to the rise of the – hand-finished hems, silk-cov- ness, informing, representing and inspir- to small independents. #30Wears movement on Instagram, ered buttons – require detailed 2012 25.1 8.8 -16.3 ing industry leaders and startups alike. Marie-Claire Daveu, chief sustaina- sustainability is gaining momentum, work. Burberry claims it can take We began in 1887, covering the bur- bility officer of Kering, owner of luxury whether brands choose to align them- Olivia Gagan a year to learn the sewing tech- geoning women’s clothing trade. More fashion houses Gucci, Saint Laurent and selves with it or not. niques to produce a trench coat, than 130 years later, our news report- Balenciaga, told Drapers sustainability is Brands that fail to adequately account AT THE ritain is a clothes-hun- Burberry plans to sell land it had which requires more than 100 indi- ing, industry insight, awards and events about change management. “You have to for their sustainability practices risk, at 2013 26.6 9.6 -17 B gry nation: we buy more earmarked for a new £50-million vidual processes. form an indispensable toolkit for busi- the very least, looking outdated. At worst garments than any other manufacturing and weaving hub On Burberry’s website, the ability nesses operating at the forefront of they risk a significant hit to their bottom country in Europe. Fast-fashion in Leeds. to execute the 180 curved stitches the fashion industry. Our more than line through poor sales, low staff reten- HEART OF THE behemoth Primark operates more Most clothing is manufactured required to make a perfect trench century-long heritage means we are tion and negative press. stores here than in any other coun- thousands of miles away in Asian coat collar is a marketing tech- 2014 28.1 10.3 -17.9 trusted by readers and clients ranging But sustainability is just one of the try in the world and its biggest countries, according to a highly nique, something to be proud of. Yet from ASOS to H&M, YOOX Net-a-Porter issues the Drapers team of journalists global outpost, an 161,000-square- critical report this spring by the despite the prices such items can Group to Marks & Spencer. 1% are reporting on and investigating every UK FASHION foot giant, has just opened Commons environmental audit command – the firm’s Kensington Looking back can be helpful, but what day. From riding out Brexit headwinds, in Birmingham. select committee. Yet the UK has a Heritage Trench Coat, which is are the key challenges facing the fash- to isolating the most useful digital inno- However, despite a voracious strong heritage of textile mills and made in Castleford, Yorkshire, 2015 29.7 10.8 -18.9 ion retail sector in 2019 and beyond? The vations, to building company cultures appetite for cheap clothes, the UK clothing factories dating back to retails at £1,490 – the attention to message from industry leaders to Drap- which attract the best talent, to maxim- INDUSTRY does not make large quantities of the 18th century, particularly in the detail and creativity required aren’t ers is clear: sustainability has never been ising productivity, we support and con- them. Primark’s website lists just northwest of England. So why do we sufficiently valued by the UK gov- higher up the fashion agenda. nect the sector’s leaders, and provide 17 UK factories from which the not have a large-scale fashion man- ernment, Dr Dhingra says. Sustainability is no longer an add-on, share of clothing that’s ideas and solutions to help drive the 2016 31.4 11.6 -19.8 brand sources products. These ufacturing industry in the UK? “There are complaints that the a nice-to-have or a marketing oppor- currently recycled in the UK fashion business forwards. FOR OVER are largely peripheral items to Dr Swati Dhingra, assistant pro- fashion manufacturing industry tunity; it’s essential to running a fash- Primark’s core bargain-clothing fessor at the London School of isn’t perceived as being on a par ion business profitably in 2019. Speak- offer. The UK factories make choc- Economics, specialising in globali- with other creative industries, ing at the Drapers Sustainable Fashion olate, duvet covers and shampoo sation and industrial policy, says such as films and video gaming, 2017 33.4 12.5 -20.8 conference this spring, MP Mary Cre- For more information please visit 130 YEARS while, in contrast, it uses 505 fac- there’s not enough trained staff to which get significant tax breaks,” agh, chair of the House of Commons bit.ly/DrapersTheTimes tories in China. power it. she says. Environmental Audit Committee, said 21 % Even businesses, where a made- “Compared to other creative or But economically viable made- sustainability is now “a fundamental in-Britain claim is integral to their tech-based industries, fashion in-Britain brands are emerging. requirement” for business. 2018 33 12.9 -20.1 brand identity, are reluctant to manufacturing employs more peo- For example, Isabelle Waring Ms Creagh revealed that less than 1 per of UK shoppers say SUBSCRIBE TODAY AT invest. Earlier this month news ple who are heterogenous, by gen- founded womenswear brand cent of clothing is currently recycled in sustainability influences their broke via The Yorkshire Post that der, income and skillset, but there Isabelle Fox in 2016. Inspired by Office for National Statistics 2019 the UK and the average piece of cloth- likelihood to buy from a brand DRAPERSONLINE.COM WHY SUBSCRIBE 04 THE FASHION ECONOMY RACONTEUR.NET 05 Commercial feature

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INTERVIEW Renowned Yvon descending from the summit of an environmentalist unnamed and previously unclimbed 20,000ft and billionaire peak in central Bhutan WASTE Brands must clothing entrepreneur Yvon Chouinard speak out says brands must NO MORE show honesty to change and transparency 21 - 23 July | Olympia London in their efforts to be sustainable, the world and demonstrate responsibility to save the planet Rick RidgewayRick

Under Chouinard’s leadership, the farming, for instance, the brand has brand has switched to 100 per cent sought to take remedial action. organic cotton, given millions of dol- Where technological or economic lars to environmental causes, and led limitations make remediation dif- the way on childcare provision for ficult, it commits to continue work- Yvon at the Tin employees and fair wages for over- ing on the issue until an adequate Shed in California, seas factory workers. solution can be found. A good exam- where he started making his own Nor is it just the company’s own ple is wool production which, due to 21 - 23 July climbing hardware house that it has occupied itself with. sheep’s grazing habits, has a major, In 2011, it helped found the cross-sec- destructive effect on local biodi- Saatchi Gallery tor Sustainable Apparel Coalition versity. Patagonia has made some Oliver Balch good guy, and he really, really wants which, among other activities, has advances, but not enough. to make Danone a responsible com- helped develop a widely used stand- But as Chouinard unashamedly says, o animal is so stupid or products. He feels a kinship with his and social harm you do, the injunc- pany,” he says. “But his stockholders, ard for measuring the sustainability of there is no such thing as the 100 per N greedy as to foul its own customers. It’s a kinship borne out, in tion to reduce comes first. Don’t make his board of directors just stop it.” footwear and clothing products. cent sustainable company: “We can Despite what some may think, profit nest, except the human ani- large part, of a shared and enduring what won’t be useful or won’t last. Viewing eco-activism as a drag Arguably, the most important lesson try to do good, but it [perfect sustaina- mal. So declares Yvon Chouinard, love of adventure and wild places. Don’t buy what you don’t need.” on profits is totally wrong headed, Chouinard has to share is that being bility] is against the laws of thermody- can coexist well with social and 80-year-old founder of Patagonia, Secondly, the comment shows This same spirit of principles-led Chouinard argues. After all, for 46 true to your message does not equate namics; everything costs something.” the US outdoor apparel brand and him to be a man of principle. If he business manifested itself more years, Patagonia has been sounding to being perfect in all you do. Nor is he simply speaking generi- environmental impact. Alvanon clients much-heralded paragon of sustaina- feels something isn’t right, he will recently in Patagonia’s decision to sue off on everything from climate change Nothing stymies brands more cally. With characteristic candour, he ble fashion. call it out, even if it threatens to hit the President Donald Trump admin- to ocean waste. And, through that when it comes to speaking out than a turns the focus on Patagonia itself. have seen up to 30% decrease in The comment appears in his new Patagonia’s profits at the till. istration. Appalled by the US pres- time, sales revenues at the upstart fear they will be branded hypocrites. He says: “I look at my company; it's book Some Stories: Lessons from the ident’s decision to roll back federal brand have crept ever upwards. Chouinard’s response is simple: fess causing an incredible amount of apparel returns. Increasing efficiency, Edge of Business and Sport. Its 464 protections for conservation areas, Proof again comes in the shape of up. Consumers don’t expect brands harm with all the resources we're pages are a testament to a life lived in known as national monuments, in the brand’s bold Black Friday adver- to be absolutely faultless. Honest, using. So we have a responsibility to reducing production waste and nature. As a young man in northern Utah, Chouinard agreed to throw tisement. Compared with the pre- yes. Perfect, no. do something now.” 24 - 25 July California, he helped open up some of the company’s weight behind a law- vious year, Patagonia’s US stores This has been Chouinard’s line all It’s a smart message. Why? Because building brand loyalty. Yosemite’s most iconic climbs. These suit initiated by native American and clocked a fourfold upturn in till along. Where problems have come to it tells consumers what they instinc- The Old Truman days he is more likely to be found in If you can create a environmental groups. receipts, an outcome that Chouinard light, as with the chemical pollution tively already know. Of course, his waders casting a fly. Not every business leader has such swears he did not anticipate or intend. associated with conventional cotton brands must still strive to become Looking to Future Growth Brewery Chouinard may have a dim view company of honest a disruptive, anti-establishment So what, if anything, can more sustainable. Yet, when a brand’s of the impact of the human species messaging and truth, nature. After all, this is the man who other fashion brands learn from cards are laid out so plainly, such on our planet, but he is no misan- compares entrepreneurs like himself Patagonia’s maverick founder when frankness gives them the licence to Fit is a strategic issue. It is the thrope. He is amiable, down to earth your customers will to juvenile delinquents: “You know, it comes to brand activism? THREE LESSONS FROM step up and speak out. and, if the mood takes him, some- the juvenile delinquent says, “This Three lessons, at least. Firstly, YVON CHOUINARD “If you can create a company of number-one reason a customer buys a thing of a raconteur. look to you for sucks. I’m gonna do it my own way.” get yourself a credible narrative. honest messaging and truth, your What he certainly is not, however, is what's right And, even if they did share his rebel- Chouinard’s view of the world – in a customers will look to you for what's garment; the number-one reason they a man who minces his words. Take his lious streak, few executives have the nutshell, wild is good and rampant Get yourself a right,” he says. attitude towards consumers. Despite same freedom to act. If speaking out consumerism bad – may not be to credible narrative They are certainly doing so in the return it; and the number-one reason owning a global fashion brand, he on a controversial topic dents profits, everyone’s taste, but at least it is eth- case of Patagonia. In recent years, likes to cite the dictionary definition Most famously, in 2011, Chouinard so be it. As sole owner, Chouinard can ically consistent and intellectually 1 the fledgling brand has exploded to they come back to that brand. of a consumer as “someone who eats signed off on a one-page ad in do as he pleases. Managers in pub- defensible. Moreover, as the impacts become a high-street name with sales up, destroys”. The New York Times – as a rule lic-owned companies, in contrast, of unsustainable use of resources revenues topping $1 billion. But it doesn’t have to be that way. Patagonia doesn’t go in for paid have shareholders to answer to. become evermore apparent, it is a nar- Don’t sugar coat So if, as Chouinard claims, custom- As he says, the strongest word in the advertisements – that read: Don’t He isn’t blind to the conundrum rative that chimes with an increasing your message. ers are looking to outspoken brands Learn more at alvanon.com English language is “no”. “Brands can Buy This Jacket. The ad, which that professional corporate lead- proportion of the buying public. for guidance, what single message come up with whatever product they was designed to highlight the envi- ers face. He cites the example of Secondly, don’t sugarcoat your Be bold. If you does he have to share? For someone 2 believe it, say it 4 - 6 August want and advertise the s**t out of it ronmental impacts of superfluous Danone. Under the leadership of message. Be bold. If you believe it, who has, despite his best efforts, seen and we can just say ‘no’. That’s pretty spending, ran on Black Friday, the chief executive Emmanuel Faber, say it. Consumers are “really hun- the gradual deterioration of our nat- NEC Birmingham strong,” he says. busiest online shopping day in the the French food giant that recently gry” for their favourite brands to take ural world, his response is remarka- The comment is revealing in two US calendar. achieved the ethical B Corp certi- a stance on issues of public concern, Be true to your bly upbeat. respects. Firstly, his use of “we”. As he explains in an earlier book fication. Even so, he predicts Mr says Chouinard. “If we acted responsibly worldwide Chouinard isn’t some distant busi- The Responsible Company, the logic Faber’s hands will be tied. Thirdly, be true to your message in message in what right now, we could really solve a lot ness mogul, far removed from the behind the campaign was simple: “If “The guy running Danone is a what you do, not just what you say. you do, not just of problems,” he says. “But it has to men and women who buy his firm’s you want to reduce the environmental climber, a serious climber and a really It is difficult to fault Patagonia here. 3 what you say be done worldwide and now.” 06 THE FASHION ECONOMY RACONTEUR.NET 07

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Depop’s making fashion fun again A peer-to-peer social shopping app is where the world’s creatives come to buy, sell and discover inspiring and unique fashion

ut of all of the top creators authentic community, celebration of O on Depop, some of whom entrepreneurship and a drive towards make six figures curating, sustainability. Some suppliers or manufactur ers and savings associated with this designing and selling clothing on the in developing countries might not could far outweigh the benefits of platform, you have probably never COMMUNITY even have the systems in place to low-cost labour. heard of 99 per cent of them. And that The top 1 per cent of the fashion indus- store the data required. “Digital technologies can enable a might be generous. try has forever called the shots. The Current growth in the market- reshoring of UK fashion manufac- Yet these young creative individuals brands, trends and models that exec- place is dominated by smaller com- turing, able to compete on a global will broaden, evolve, redefine, democ- utives want you to consider have been panies that are developing on the scale, if the research is done coher- ratise and genuinely transform what we placed front and centre. This has hap- back of very strong digital plat- ently and properly funded,” says value in fashion forever. pened at the expense of greater diver- forms and technologies, notably Susan Postlethwaite, senior teach- Most importantly, they’re having a lot sity and choice. artificial intelligence, the cloud and ing fellow in fashion at the Royal of fun doing it. Not anymore. Supreme is valued at $1 blockchain. Teemill, a cloud-based College of Art (RCA) and co-inves- billion, Gucci is emblazoning New York platform that lets anyone build an tigator of Future Fashion Factory, DE-WHAT? Yankees logos on everything alongside online fashion store and sell T-shirt aimed at improving the fashion sup- Depop is a marketplace and creative Dapper Dan and brands like Heron designs online, is an example of ply chain. But there are a large num- platform where people can meet, con- Preston and 1017 Alyx 9SM are fixtures a startup that is fully embracing ber of stakeholders and policymak- nect with and shop from one another. of Paris Fashion Week. It seems like the technology in its supply chain. ers who need to be involved to make We started as an app, but now manage kids have taken over. “The design of the industry itself it a success. physical stores and pop-up experi- Yet influence still almost always trick- is outdated,” says Martin Drake- “The buy and sell side all want ences across the UK and America. We les from the top down. Depop utilises Knight, design engineer at Teemill, originality,” says Tessa Laws, chair- have more than 13 million users and 90 the power of a globally-connected SUPPLY CHAINS which prints and ships items for man of Bagir Group, which manufac- per cent are under 26, which means a world to change that. If we’ve learnt anyone with a smartphone. “For us tures tailored garments for retailers lot of them are part of Generation Z. anything from how the internet has it’s about viewing the supply chain including H&M and Brooks Brothers. By 2020, Gen Z – generally defined as transformed other industries, we’ve as part of a connected system and The standardisation of fashion is those born between the mid-1990s and learnt that old top-down power struc- looking for positive solutions across a worry for the industry, and some mid-2000s – will be the largest group tures are not long for this world. As Fashion supply the product life cycle, from where argue that current digital systems of consumers, commanding up to $143 we grow our community, we make it a clothing comes from through to take away from the potential for billion in spending power as they enter point to help the many perspectives brands and manufacturers. “The where it goes after it’s worn out.” innovation and unique design. the workforce. They live, work and shop within it prosper. ones that do it best, and we see evi- The company uses technology But instead of hiding away from in profoundly different ways to the Depop sellers are often ahead of chains in need dence of their success from their to design waste out of the supply technology, the industry should be generations before them. trend, eschew labels and love flaunt- financial accounts, are those that chain. “Mindful application of tech taking charge of it. The RCA wants Our mantra is “Empower young ing their unique perspectives. Take start with the consumer and work can create efficiencies that we rein- to train the next fashion genera- people to transform fashion” and Internet Girl (pictured), for example. their way back in a controlled way vest in better materials, renewa- tion to embrace new technologies, that’s truly what we intend to do. The Canadian national started flip- of tech makeover through the supply chain; this is ble energy and solving the issues in understand the science and engi- Empower how, you ask? By galvanis- ping vintage pieces on Depop a few and DJ gigs all over the world to grow. interactions, but also to lucrative col- friendly business strategies as must- very much built around a strong and fashion,” explains Mr Drake-Knight. neering for new production meth- ing our young creators to tackle these years ago and has built an audience of These two represent a huge stride for- laborations and partnerships between haves. According to Nielsen, for exam- standardised IT system.” “It’s about the conscientious appli- ods and recognise the potential to three big components, which the fash- more than half a million followers ever ward for the luxury industry, yet boot- sellers. This community translates into ple, almost three quarters of 15 to 20 Digital technologies could transform Digital technologies designed to cation of technology, not just tech- innovate in the designing of new ion industry is largely missing out on: since. Her aesthetic, heavy on 1990s strap entrepreneurs they are not. the real world with events in our NYC year olds would pay more for a sustain- track and trace products from the nology on its own.” systems and processes. “mall rat” style, has developed a rabid Depop caters to the many kinds of and LA retail spaces, which rotate pro- able product. supply-chain visibility and transparency raw-material source to the customer But many fashion brands are still Fashion is desperate for a tech- following of young creatives who are young entrepreneurs who are trans- gramming on a monthly basis to high- Vintage, upcycled and resold gar- can deliver full visibility of the sup- hesitant to implement pioneering nology makeover and, unless the heavy on irony and nostalgia. forming fashion on their own terms. light those who go above and beyond ments make up a majority of Depop’s in fashion, but a culture of resistance is ply chain. The key is to maintain a digital technologies because they industry embraces innovation with Internet Girl engages with this com- Our platform makes it easy to be found to build their own personal brands on inventory. Simply put, very little sold holding the industry back consistent format of data for all sup- can be expensive, involve sharing open arms, its growing supply chain munity constantly, both through and to build an audience. We help our Depop and to help expose their work to on the platform is brand new. Vintage pliers and elements of the chain. sensitive data and often require is likely to suffer. If the wider indus- Depop and the YouTube content she sellers build businesses with dedicated broader audiences. We like to say that is more unique, covetable and col- The data can then be interfaced with extensive training. try looked at smaller niche busi- m+ creates weekly. She has earned enough advice and support, data and analytics, Depop can help you build an empire lectible than new clothing. Plus, hand- digital technologies such as block- Clothes manufacturing is vastly nesses that view fashion with fresh 13 to move to Los Angeles and start her mentoring and workshops. from your bedroom, and our top sell- made embellishments and the bril- chain, a shared database where vari- driven by the cost of labour, with eyes and new perspectives, they users own brand, at the same time as contin- We’re an open, inclusive place – ers are doing exactly that. liant creativity of designers such as Alexandra Leonards ous parties in the supply chain input many brands seeking out the cheap- might be inspired to transform their uing to offer uniquely selected vintage and success is meritocratic and built Nicole McLaughlin, with whom we just and verify information. est route. In this industry you get own supply chains. pieces to her audience. on relationships. 200 million mes- SUSTAINABILITY hosted an Earth Day campaign in the ot yet falling apart at with its developing intricacy, and the However, creating a holistic sys- just what you pay for, and cheap sages were exchanged on Depop in The fashion industry knows it has United States, make for compelling N the seams, but certainly disconnect between sourcing raw tem like this can be a daunting task, labour comes with a risk of exploita- ENTREPRENEURSHIP 2018 alone, and many of those led a sustainability problem. Creating fashion product. unravelling, fashion is materials, manufacturers and retail- especially for larger fashion compa- tion and back-office costs. 90% When news broke that Rihanna’s not only to new friendships and IRL clothing at scale, over and over again, revealing itself as a fragmented ers has generated serious concerns nies with complex supply chains. Alternative manufacturing under 26 years old Fenty-LVMH deal was really happen- is bad for the planet and it’s not want At Depop, we’re continually exploring and fickle industry. Twenty years about the industry’s impact on wast- facilities could save money in ing, the world rejoiced to see a woman people want. A worrying 2019 report new ways to support this new gen- ago, the Western world still relied age, climate change, poor pay and the long term, but are often dis- of colour at the helm of a major luxury from the World Resources Institute eration of talent, so they can trans- on domestic manufacturing, nowa- forced labour. Digital technologies regarded because of their initial label. It’s indeed a historic moment, yet found that around one rubbish truck form fashion, build successful busi- days the industry depends on labour have the capacity to boost efficiency cost. However, there’s an oppor- % the conglomerate’s first new maison of clothes is burnt or sent to land- nesses, connect with and inspire from much further afield. Driven and bridge the gap between suppliers tunity for brands to use digital 50 800k since 1987 is still an example of the fills every second and the average the communities around them, by changing consumer demands, and brands, but a culture of resist- technologies to identify all the sellers industry placing a bet on someone who consumer bought 60 per cent more and have a very good time doing it. a need to cut costs, a move away ance is restricting the industry. costs associated with the produc- is not an up-and-comer, but already clothes in 2014 than in 2000, but kept from homegrown textiles and a shift “Some companies are better tion cycle, including wastage and of large global companies will has huge celebrity. Depop sellers are often each garment for half as long. For more information please visit towards fast fashion, the fashion than others, without question,” back-office costs, which are often be using artificial intelligence, In many ways, the same is true of If millennials have blazed the trail depop.com advanced analytics and the supply chain has waned under the says Shaun Godfrey, chief operat- It’s about the conscientious missed. Businesses might find Louis Vuitton hiring Virgil Abloh, towards a more sustainable world, internet of things in supply ahead of trend, eschew labels pressure of its growing complexity. ing officer of freight-forwarding for application of technology, not that choosing a different manu- chain operations by 2023 200m who spearheaded Off-White with and love flaunting their unique then Gen Z are the galvanising force The level of efficiency in the fash- Xpediator, which provides fash- facturing plant improves the effi- messages exchanged on Instagram-friendly branding, a signifi- that will pressure major brands around ion supply chain has not kept up ion logistics services for retailers, just technology on its own ciency of the whole supply chain Gartner 2018 Depop in 2018 cant network of cool-kid collaborators perspectives the globe to embrace environmentally 08 THE FASHION ECONOMY RACONTEUR.NET 09 Commercial feature

Depop’s making fashion fun again A peer-to-peer social shopping app is where the world’s creatives come to buy, sell and discover inspiring and unique fashion

HOTTEST BRANDS OF 2019 BRAND VALUE: BIGGEST MOVERS IN 2019*

The Lyst Index analyses the Rank Q1 Rank Q4 Rank Q1 Rank Q4 online fashion shopping behav- 2019 2018 2019 2018 iour of more than five million BRAND VALUE 1 Off-White 2 6 Prada 11 shoppers a month across 12,000 designers and stores – Nike continues to be the world’s most valuable apparel brand, according to 2 Gucci 1 7 Stone Island 7 + 57% -1% online, and includes Google Brand Finance, after impressive growth over recent years and an enviable search data, online sales and Christian Dior Bershka 3 Balenciaga 3 8 Versace 6 following on social media. But which brands are challenging its position? social media activity 4 Valentino 9 9 Vetements 8 48% -4% Uniqlo Hermes 5 Fendi 5 10 Saint Laurents 27

Lyst 2019 47% -8% Anta Under Armour BRAND VALUE OF THE LEADING TEN APPAREL BRANDS IN 2019*

Brand value and percentage change on 2018 *Brand Finance’s measure of 43% -11% brand value accounts for brand Moncler Bottega Veneta strength (which includes marketing investment, stakeholder equity and business performance), 42% -13% brand revenues and royalty rates The North Face Pandora (licensing agreements)

39% -16% Cartier H&M

37% -20% Omega Salvatore Ferragamo

36% -26% Calvin Klein Chow Tai Fook

$32bn $18bn $17bn $16bn $14bn $14bn $12bn $11bn $10bn $8bn Brand Finance 2019 +16% +6% +17% -16% +39% +29% +48% -4% +19% +27%

Nike Zara Adidas H&M Cartier Louis Vuitton Uniqlo Hermes Gucci Rolex WHERE THE 50 BIGGEST APPAREL BRANDS LIVE* Brand Finance 2019

17.3% $48bn Other BRAND VALUE OVER TIME* MOST FOLLOWED FASHION BRANDS ON INSTAGRAM 5.8% $16bn Changes in brand value for the top five most valuable brands in 2019 Number of followers in mid-May 2019 (million) Switzerland 33.5% 40 $93bn 32 28 35 38 33 66 88 30 34 34 United Nike States 30 H&M 8% $bn 20 Zara $22bn 17.8% Spain $50bn France Adidas 10

Cartier 8.1% 9.6% $22bn $27bn Germany Italy

2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 Nike Vic toria’s Secret Nike Football CHANEL Gucci Adidas Originals ZARA Official Vuitton Louis Official H&M Adidas Football

Brand Finance 2019 Instagram 2019 Brand Finance 2019 10 THE FASHION ECONOMY RACONTEUR.NET 11

HOTTEST BRANDS OF 2019 BRAND VALUE: BIGGEST MOVERS IN 2019*

Lyst 2019 47% -8% Anta Under Armour BRAND VALUE OF THE LEADING TEN APPAREL BRANDS IN 2019*

39% -16% Cartier H&M

37% -20% Omega Salvatore Ferragamo

36% -26% Calvin Klein Chow Tai Fook

$32bn $18bn $17bn $16bn $14bn $14bn $12bn $11bn $10bn $8bn Brand Finance 2019 +16% +6% +17% -16% +39% +29% +48% -4% +19% +27%

Nike Zara Adidas H&M Cartier Louis Vuitton Uniqlo Hermes Gucci Rolex WHERE THE 50 BIGGEST APPAREL BRANDS LIVE* Brand Finance 2019

Cartier 8.1% 9.6% $22bn $27bn Germany Italy

2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 Nike Vic toria’s Secret Nike Football CHANEL Gucci Adidas Originals ZARA Official Vuitton Louis Official H&M Adidas Football

Brand Finance 2019 Instagram 2019 Brand Finance 2019 12 THE FASHION ECONOMY RACONTEUR.NET 13 Commercial feature

OPINION

Test new trend concepts on social media in minutes RETURNS ‘Businesses have Forecast customer demand greater opportunities to using photorealistic digital Making returns virtual samples created in weeks samples engage in meaningful reduction in physical profitable is getting sampling conversations that 63% Why 3D? Create and present product ranges digitally will lead to conscious harder to master reduction in physical Make style amendments and accurate 60% fit model sessions decisions in real time

Free returns are loved by consumers, but also abused consumerism’ Enhance supply chain collaboration Reduce lead times by a minority. So should retailers call time on easy increase ashion, at its best, acts as and long-lasting partnerships with returns and what effect would it have on the industry? 28% in productivity Improve sales and reduce returns F a mirror of our time; it’s business and creative networks in always pushed boundaries key markets overseas. Now we are and I believe nowhere is this more engaging this global network, ena- prevalent than in London. The cap- bling knowledge-sharing between Charles Orton-Jones ital has a long-standing reputation large businesses and luxury groups for attracting creativity, champion- with small and medium-sized entering freedom of speech, and plays a prises to ensure businesses can con- uy, try and return if you shows how important returns are efficient, then the long-term value of key role in innovating and initiat- tinue to grow, but also easily switch Kay Roxby/Alamy Kay B don't like. It's the modern to consumers. any customer can absorb the costs of ing cultural change which resonates to more sustainable practices. When 3D tech is a way to shop online. But A survey conducted by Klarna, a any returned item.” All this seems to show that across the global fashion industry. The BFC established Positive retailer Asos is tightening its rules. credit service, of 2,000 UK shoppers And there is a legal minimum to returns are popular, profitable and All businesses need to focus Fashion in 2014, a stream of work In April, Asos said it would clamp found 78 per cent would buy more in observe. The Consumer Rights Act in line with consumer expecta- on purpose, action and positive that would enhance our strate- down on customers who order and the long run from retailers with free imposes a statutory 30 days. Robert By banning the minority tions. The challenge is how to deal change. The fashion industry is no gic pillars of education, business perfect fit for fashion return “way, way more than even returns. Three quarters said returns Lands is partner at Howard Kennedy, with the tiny number of consum- exception and works at an incredible and reputation. Since then Positive the most loyal Asos customer would are a key part of how they select a London law firm, who explains: “The who take advantage, better ers who abuse the returns rule. pace; businesses have to be reactive, Fashion has championed more Digital 3D tools can transform the fashion industry, boosting order”. These malefactors will be a retailer and 86 per cent say free Consumer Rights Act 2015 relates to conditions can be offered for Recent research from Barclaycard delivering product in step with con- accessible local high-end manu- banned. Also getting the red card are returns will make them more loyal. faulty goods and goods which are not suggests this is the biggest annoy- sumer demand and investor pres- facturing, Vivienne Westwood’s productivity, product development and profitability customers who “wardrobe” or wear The testimony of retailers sup- as described, but the rules on which the rest of the consumer base ance for retailers. A quarter have sure, while also embracing a more SWITCH to green energy campaign, clothes once and then return them. ports these numbers. For exam- online shoppers rely when they’ve seen returns increase in the last sustainable future. and is focusing on the creation of Asos's move has triggered an indus- ple, Andrew Davies, head of ecom- just changed their mind are in the two years. And one in five report The government has declared a practical guides and toolkits to try conversation over returns. Is the merce at Weird Fish, a mid-sized Consumer Contract Regulations 2013. redrafting their returns rules to be climate emergency and the fashion enable us to create a programme to nticipating consumers’ needs demand printing, while micro-fac- guage becomes less of a barrier when industry too generous with returns? clothing brand with 16 stores, says These are more generous than many “This shorter timeframe cuts down more stringent to counter vexatious industry, alongside all others, must help the industry become net car- A is the cornerstone of any fash- tories, where textiles can be digitally the concept can be visualised in 3D on Who should pay for postage, the ven- the quibbles are minor compared realise. Some believe that consum- the risk of items being returned dam- returns, with a further 19 per cent take action. But it’s a positive change bon neutral. ion retail business. But con- printed and automatically cut, are a key screens across the world. dor or buyer? And what should be to the upsides. “The returns process ers have 14 days to change their mind aged, faulty or with missing tags and planning to do so in the next year. that has to come from brands and The good news is that signifi- sumers have more needs than ever and driver for success. No longer is it nec- Design concepts can be tested on done about the cheeky 2 per cent who and experience is just as important and return, but in fact you can take allows us to get things processed The concerns cited by retailers are businesses, driving innovation and cant work is already being done by want them met faster than ever. Fash- essary to ship fabric around the world social media before being put into pro- abuse the rules? as the payment process,” he says. 14 days to inform the retailer of your more quickly and get products back over-ordering and wardrobing. new ways of working, while also col- many of the large responsible busi- ion houses no longer have the luxury chasing cheap labour; a garment can duction. Different colour options can be A lot of research is being done to “As long as you are offering a posi- intention to return and then a further online. We don’t have the stock levels In summary, the industry is learn- lectively shifting consumer habits. nesses. Kering Group have been of time; their products have to migrate be brought to life in small batches via tried out in the blink of an eye and at no find the answer. First up, the data tive experience and the process is 14 days to do so.” that larger online retailers do, so it’s ing how to master returns. Longer This isn’t about compromising, it’s identified as luxury leaders, while from page to rail as quickly as possible. print machinery in the next room. extra cost, and the result sent direct to That's the minimum. Retailers can important to us that we get items back windows than the legal minimum are redressing the balance of craft and Marks & Spencer were first to focus Add in consumers’ desire for more Such micro-factories not only get the micro-factory at the press of a button. offer more. And, in line with con- into our stock as quickly as possible.” appreciated by consumers. And free consumerism. on the environment on the high product lines, leading to costly smaller clothes on to racks in a matter of days Whole collections can be reviewed CONSUMER EXPECTATIONS ARE SKY HIGH sumer demand, the trend is to offer There's also the question of who returns are a boon. But serial abusers In the UK, the fashion industry street; both have representatives batches, and it’s easy to see why the rather than months, but can also bring a digitally by buyers, with different longer windows. Research by Kurt pays. Data from parcelLab, looking undermine the entire system. employs around 890,000 people, on the BFC Positive Fashion com- industry is under pressure; brands are new level of localism to the fashion indus- options assessed in hours rather than Percentage of 2,000 UK consumers who agree with the following Salmon, part of Accenture Strategy, at the UK's largest 100 retailers, says By banning the minority who contributes £32 billion to the econ- mittee. The designer fashion busi- consolidating or simply disappearing try and help address issues of sustainabil- weeks. A garment worn by a fash- shows the timeframe for full refunds only a fifth provide a returns label take advantage, better conditions omy, which is similar in size to tele- nesses, starting today, are doing so from the high street. ity; the creation of physical samples that ion influencer one day can be on the is growing, with 57 per cent offering with deliveries. The rest expect the can be offered for the rest of the coms or car manufacturing. But like through a sense of purpose and with But now digital technology is helping go to waste costs the apparel market a screen the next. Option of free returns means I am more loyal to a brand 86% 15 to 31 days and an additional 19 per consumer to sort out the return them- consumer base. the bold designs on the catwalk, it’s an intent to be sustainable. overcome these problems, with result- massive $6 billion to $8 billion every year. The rise in the use of technology cent allowing up to 90 days. selves, although 16 per cent offer an For example, Asos has taken action more debated than either of these This is a direct reflection of our ant effects on profitability and sustain- No longer are teams working in silos, demands a changed skillset within the I won’t go back to a brand if I have a poor returns experience 84% However, retailers are finding that online label download service. This is against consumers who order too sectors because its voice is much graduating generation’s view of ability throughout the fashion indus- with all the opportunities for miscom- industry. Of course, designers who extending the returns windows not always postage paid. The average much or wear clothes and then return louder. It’s within our cultural and the world and the role they want to try. 2D and 3D visualisations can bring munication that arise. Instead, teams create their best work using paper and comes with dangers. Returned goods cost of postage is £8.42. And commu- them, but it also improved the offer- social dialogue and consciousness, play as creatives in the future of our garments to life, enabling companies are able to work more efficiently, creat- pen will continue to do so, but the right Returns are now a normal part of online shopping 82% may be harder to sell again, as the sea- nication with customers is not great ing by extending the window for free so businesses have greater oppor- global industry. This is something to save up to 60 per cent in the cost ing more styles with the same resource. use of digital technology can be added sons change. And goods may be dam- as a quarter do not notify consumers returns to 45 days, with a voucher for tunities to engage in meaningful we should all support. Our aim is to of physical fitting sessions, and 28 per Different avatars mean the product can to refine and improve the overall pro- Free returns mean I would buy more with a retailer over time 78% aged if held for longer. when their return has been received anything received after 28 days. conversations that will lead to con- create momentum for change, yet cent in time to approval. be “seen” on differently shaped bodies cess from concept to high street. Now Retailer Jules B offers only the and a third fail to say when the reim- In a nutshell, the golden age is here scious consumerism. still champion the incredible crea- Speed of approval is an important and adjustments made in seconds. Lan- colleges and universities are starting to Returns are an essential factor in my choice of retailer 75% basic 14-day window for these rea- bursement will be processed. This to stay. Apart for that naughty minor- The British Fashion Council (BFC) tivity, craftsmanship and ingenuity factor in an increasingly fast-paced offer 3D fashion courses, the industry sons. Bethany Hamer, the online suggests a lot of work can be done on ity. The rest of us can bid good rid- is a not-for-profit organisation that comes from inspirational and world, where “see now, buy now” is the is set to see a revolution in its skills that Klarna 2019 fashion editor at Jules B, explains: the experiential side of returns. dance to them. whose mission is to harness the col- original design. consumer mantra; trends can come will increase efficiency. lective power of the fashion industry and go overnight, and any delays in The global textile industry has for to enable sustainable growth. Now the supply chain can mean the differ- too long been stuck, continuing to use is the time to ensure we do this. We ence between riding the wave or a wipe methods of production that would be have established a Positive Fashion out. Technology can cut lead times for recognised by manufacturers from the committee of sustainable and com- product from weeks to only days. 19th century. Applying digital 3D tools munications experts to help focus The technology behind these tools Applying digital 2D/3D can transform the process, increasing our engagement and adoption of has been available for a decade or so, tools can transform productivity and creating a lean prod- Need more leads, brand awareness sustainable and ethical practices, but it is only recently that companies uct development chain that can cut creating a significant network to have started to embrace and imple- the process, increasing overheads and improve profitability. embrace and promote this movement it. 2D and 3D offer an end-to- ment of change. end development solution, connect- productivity and and thought leadership? Supporting sustainable growth ing everyone from the designer to the creating a lean product For more information please visit has meant creating global plat- buyer in one seamless process. www.optitex.com or contact A 3D visualisation of a product can be development chain that Get in touch to find out how we can support forms, such as London Fashion [email protected] Week and The Fashion Awards, to Caroline Rush sent around the world in seconds. The can cut overheads and [email protected] your marketing efforts and improve ROI showcase UK businesses to global Chief executive garment can also be transferred direct audiences, and helps create strong British Fashion Council to fabric, through the clever use of on improve profitability 12 THE FASHION ECONOMY RACONTEUR.NET 13 Commercial feature

OPINION

Free returns are loved by consumers, but also abused consumerism’ Enhance supply chain collaboration Reduce lead times by a minority. So should retailers call time on easy increase ashion, at its best, acts as and long-lasting partnerships with returns and what effect would it have on the industry? 28% in productivity Improve sales and reduce returns F a mirror of our time; it’s business and creative networks in always pushed boundaries key markets overseas. Now we are and I believe nowhere is this more engaging this global network, ena- prevalent than in London. The cap- bling knowledge-sharing between Charles Orton-Jones ital has a long-standing reputation large businesses and luxury groups for attracting creativity, champion- with small and medium-sized entering freedom of speech, and plays a prises to ensure businesses can con- uy, try and return if you shows how important returns are efficient, then the long-term value of key role in innovating and initiat- tinue to grow, but also easily switch Kay Roxby/Alamy Kay B don't like. It's the modern to consumers. any customer can absorb the costs of ing cultural change which resonates to more sustainable practices. When 3D tech is a way to shop online. But A survey conducted by Klarna, a any returned item.” All this seems to show that across the global fashion industry. The BFC established Positive retailer Asos is tightening its rules. credit service, of 2,000 UK shoppers And there is a legal minimum to returns are popular, profitable and All businesses need to focus Fashion in 2014, a stream of work In April, Asos said it would clamp found 78 per cent would buy more in observe. The Consumer Rights Act in line with consumer expecta- on purpose, action and positive that would enhance our strate- down on customers who order and the long run from retailers with free imposes a statutory 30 days. Robert By banning the minority tions. The challenge is how to deal change. The fashion industry is no gic pillars of education, business perfect fit for fashion return “way, way more than even returns. Three quarters said returns Lands is partner at Howard Kennedy, with the tiny number of consum- exception and works at an incredible and reputation. Since then Positive the most loyal Asos customer would are a key part of how they select a London law firm, who explains: “The who take advantage, better ers who abuse the returns rule. pace; businesses have to be reactive, Fashion has championed more Digital 3D tools can transform the fashion industry, boosting order”. These malefactors will be a retailer and 86 per cent say free Consumer Rights Act 2015 relates to conditions can be offered for Recent research from Barclaycard delivering product in step with con- accessible local high-end manu- banned. Also getting the red card are returns will make them more loyal. faulty goods and goods which are not suggests this is the biggest annoy- sumer demand and investor pres- facturing, Vivienne Westwood’s productivity, product development and profitability customers who “wardrobe” or wear The testimony of retailers sup- as described, but the rules on which the rest of the consumer base ance for retailers. A quarter have sure, while also embracing a more SWITCH to green energy campaign, clothes once and then return them. ports these numbers. For exam- online shoppers rely when they’ve seen returns increase in the last sustainable future. and is focusing on the creation of Asos's move has triggered an indus- ple, Andrew Davies, head of ecom- just changed their mind are in the two years. And one in five report The government has declared a practical guides and toolkits to try conversation over returns. Is the merce at Weird Fish, a mid-sized Consumer Contract Regulations 2013. redrafting their returns rules to be climate emergency and the fashion enable us to create a programme to nticipating consumers’ needs demand printing, while micro-fac- guage becomes less of a barrier when industry too generous with returns? clothing brand with 16 stores, says These are more generous than many “This shorter timeframe cuts down more stringent to counter vexatious industry, alongside all others, must help the industry become net car- A is the cornerstone of any fash- tories, where textiles can be digitally the concept can be visualised in 3D on Who should pay for postage, the ven- the quibbles are minor compared realise. Some believe that consum- the risk of items being returned dam- returns, with a further 19 per cent take action. But it’s a positive change bon neutral. ion retail business. But con- printed and automatically cut, are a key screens across the world. dor or buyer? And what should be to the upsides. “The returns process ers have 14 days to change their mind aged, faulty or with missing tags and planning to do so in the next year. that has to come from brands and The good news is that signifi- sumers have more needs than ever and driver for success. No longer is it nec- Design concepts can be tested on done about the cheeky 2 per cent who and experience is just as important and return, but in fact you can take allows us to get things processed The concerns cited by retailers are businesses, driving innovation and cant work is already being done by want them met faster than ever. Fash- essary to ship fabric around the world social media before being put into pro- abuse the rules? as the payment process,” he says. 14 days to inform the retailer of your more quickly and get products back over-ordering and wardrobing. new ways of working, while also col- many of the large responsible busi- ion houses no longer have the luxury chasing cheap labour; a garment can duction. Different colour options can be A lot of research is being done to “As long as you are offering a posi- intention to return and then a further online. We don’t have the stock levels In summary, the industry is learn- lectively shifting consumer habits. nesses. Kering Group have been of time; their products have to migrate be brought to life in small batches via tried out in the blink of an eye and at no find the answer. First up, the data tive experience and the process is 14 days to do so.” that larger online retailers do, so it’s ing how to master returns. Longer This isn’t about compromising, it’s identified as luxury leaders, while from page to rail as quickly as possible. print machinery in the next room. extra cost, and the result sent direct to That's the minimum. Retailers can important to us that we get items back windows than the legal minimum are redressing the balance of craft and Marks & Spencer were first to focus Add in consumers’ desire for more Such micro-factories not only get the micro-factory at the press of a button. offer more. And, in line with con- into our stock as quickly as possible.” appreciated by consumers. And free consumerism. on the environment on the high product lines, leading to costly smaller clothes on to racks in a matter of days Whole collections can be reviewed CONSUMER EXPECTATIONS ARE SKY HIGH sumer demand, the trend is to offer There's also the question of who returns are a boon. But serial abusers In the UK, the fashion industry street; both have representatives batches, and it’s easy to see why the rather than months, but can also bring a digitally by buyers, with different longer windows. Research by Kurt pays. Data from parcelLab, looking undermine the entire system. employs around 890,000 people, on the BFC Positive Fashion com- industry is under pressure; brands are new level of localism to the fashion indus- options assessed in hours rather than Percentage of 2,000 UK consumers who agree with the following Salmon, part of Accenture Strategy, at the UK's largest 100 retailers, says By banning the minority who contributes £32 billion to the econ- mittee. The designer fashion busi- consolidating or simply disappearing try and help address issues of sustainabil- weeks. A garment worn by a fash- shows the timeframe for full refunds only a fifth provide a returns label take advantage, better conditions omy, which is similar in size to tele- nesses, starting today, are doing so from the high street. ity; the creation of physical samples that ion influencer one day can be on the is growing, with 57 per cent offering with deliveries. The rest expect the can be offered for the rest of the coms or car manufacturing. But like through a sense of purpose and with But now digital technology is helping go to waste costs the apparel market a screen the next. Option of free returns means I am more loyal to a brand 86% 15 to 31 days and an additional 19 per consumer to sort out the return them- consumer base. the bold designs on the catwalk, it’s an intent to be sustainable. overcome these problems, with result- massive $6 billion to $8 billion every year. The rise in the use of technology cent allowing up to 90 days. selves, although 16 per cent offer an For example, Asos has taken action more debated than either of these This is a direct reflection of our ant effects on profitability and sustain- No longer are teams working in silos, demands a changed skillset within the I won’t go back to a brand if I have a poor returns experience 84% However, retailers are finding that online label download service. This is against consumers who order too sectors because its voice is much graduating generation’s view of ability throughout the fashion indus- with all the opportunities for miscom- industry. Of course, designers who extending the returns windows not always postage paid. The average much or wear clothes and then return louder. It’s within our cultural and the world and the role they want to try. 2D and 3D visualisations can bring munication that arise. Instead, teams create their best work using paper and comes with dangers. Returned goods cost of postage is £8.42. And commu- them, but it also improved the offer- social dialogue and consciousness, play as creatives in the future of our garments to life, enabling companies are able to work more efficiently, creat- pen will continue to do so, but the right Returns are now a normal part of online shopping 82% may be harder to sell again, as the sea- nication with customers is not great ing by extending the window for free so businesses have greater oppor- global industry. This is something to save up to 60 per cent in the cost ing more styles with the same resource. use of digital technology can be added sons change. And goods may be dam- as a quarter do not notify consumers returns to 45 days, with a voucher for tunities to engage in meaningful we should all support. Our aim is to of physical fitting sessions, and 28 per Different avatars mean the product can to refine and improve the overall pro- Free returns mean I would buy more with a retailer over time 78% aged if held for longer. when their return has been received anything received after 28 days. conversations that will lead to con- create momentum for change, yet cent in time to approval. be “seen” on differently shaped bodies cess from concept to high street. Now Retailer Jules B offers only the and a third fail to say when the reim- In a nutshell, the golden age is here scious consumerism. still champion the incredible crea- Speed of approval is an important and adjustments made in seconds. Lan- colleges and universities are starting to Returns are an essential factor in my choice of retailer 75% basic 14-day window for these rea- bursement will be processed. This to stay. Apart for that naughty minor- The British Fashion Council (BFC) tivity, craftsmanship and ingenuity factor in an increasingly fast-paced offer 3D fashion courses, the industry sons. Bethany Hamer, the online suggests a lot of work can be done on ity. The rest of us can bid good rid- is a not-for-profit organisation that comes from inspirational and world, where “see now, buy now” is the is set to see a revolution in its skills that Klarna 2019 fashion editor at Jules B, explains: the experiential side of returns. dance to them. whose mission is to harness the col- original design. consumer mantra; trends can come will increase efficiency. lective power of the fashion industry and go overnight, and any delays in The global textile industry has for to enable sustainable growth. Now the supply chain can mean the differ- too long been stuck, continuing to use is the time to ensure we do this. We ence between riding the wave or a wipe methods of production that would be have established a Positive Fashion out. Technology can cut lead times for recognised by manufacturers from the committee of sustainable and com- product from weeks to only days. 19th century. Applying digital 3D tools munications experts to help focus The technology behind these tools Applying digital 2D/3D can transform the process, increasing our engagement and adoption of has been available for a decade or so, tools can transform productivity and creating a lean prod- Need more leads, brand awareness sustainable and ethical practices, but it is only recently that companies uct development chain that can cut creating a significant network to have started to embrace and imple- the process, increasing overheads and improve profitability. embrace and promote this movement it. 2D and 3D offer an end-to- ment of change. end development solution, connect- productivity and and thought leadership? Supporting sustainable growth ing everyone from the designer to the creating a lean product For more information please visit has meant creating global plat- buyer in one seamless process. www.optitex.com or contact A 3D visualisation of a product can be development chain that Get in touch to find out how we can support forms, such as London Fashion [email protected] Week and The Fashion Awards, to Caroline Rush sent around the world in seconds. The can cut overheads and [email protected] your marketing efforts and improve ROI showcase UK businesses to global Chief executive garment can also be transferred direct audiences, and helps create strong British Fashion Council to fabric, through the clever use of on improve profitability 14 THE FASHION ECONOMY RACONTEUR.NET 15 Commercial feature

activity was focused on food, for example halal certification food, and then finance, such as Sharia-compli- ant mortgages. Fashion was always Fashion can only do going to be the third in the sequence ISKO denim, after food and finance.” a certain amount, US-based journalist Shamira Ibra- but one of the him, who writes on culture, poli- tics and identity for publications things that fashion fabric fit for including The Washington Post, The and its impact on Atlantic and VICE, says that while there has been some progress in public discussion terms of representation and inclu- can do is be a the conscious sion, brands can sometimes seem to be opportunistic. conduit for much “Brands are trying to assign some moral value to what they are putting wider discussion generation out. And sometimes that is a little specious because they are trying to assert some sort of value to the product ,while the people they are and Gigi Hadid adorn ad campaigns A responsible enterprise, with sustainability at trying to represent are dealing with and catwalks, discussions around the top of its business agenda, appeals to an real things day-to-day and there’s inclusivity and representation of not a lot of specific effort, socially, to Muslim women are likely to con- environmentally conscious customer stand with that,” says Ms Ibrahim. tinue filling column inches. Professor Lewis says despite some It’s something Professor Lewis benefits amid a corporatisation of thinks is encouraging. “In a way, components of identity, disadvan- more inclusivity widens the frame he planet is in the news. With ISKO, as a denim mill, would be tages are also arising. for how Muslims are ‘seen, under- T climate breakdown making considered a tier-two supplier, “I do feel that people in the major- stood, perceived’. Fashion can only the wrong kind of headlines, but that does not justify any drop ity culture, which in the UK could do a certain amount, but one of the environmental awareness and activ- in standards, argues Ms Cortazzi. be Christian, secularish and white, things that fashion and its impact ism is on the up, and young people are “Everything we make is produced in or Muslim in Saudi, find it very on public discussion can do is be a taking to the streets. a responsible way and you don’t just hard to understand how much peo- conduit for much wider discussion,” They are also exercising spend- have to take our word for that,” she ple from minority cultures may she says. ing power at the retail checkout, says says. “The pinnacle of our sus- feel excluded if they are disenfran- For Ms Ibrahim, meanwhile, a step Rosey Cortazzi, global marketing direc- tainability offer, the ISKO Earth Fit chised from the dominant cultural forward in the discussion would see Customers at tor at ISKO, the largest denim manu- collection, has obtained two inde- forms,” she says. brands play a bigger role in inclusiv- FashionValet in Kuala facturer under one roof in the world. pendent certifications.” Lumpur, Malaysia “So that could mean black peo- ity in a socio-economic context. “Customers, especially Gen Y and Gen More often seen on cosmetics and Getty Images via Das/Bloomberg Sanjit ple never seeing themselves on TV She concludes: “When it comes to Z, are prepared to walk away from com- household products, these are the or not being able to go shopping fashion, we have to realise that the panies that cannot demonstrate they stringent Nordic Swan Ecolabel and MODEST FASHION photoshoots, and comes amid a because consumer cultures like same hijab or burkini that Halima are good corporate citizens,” she says. EU Ecolabel, both of which are directly wider moment currently occurring fashion and shopping are predomi- Aden is being praised for is still a “Transparency and traceability matter.” recognised by the end-consumer. in the Western fashion industry, the nant cultural forms now. Being able brave choice for women in a public This desire for value alignment extends Together they verify multiple respon- so-called modest fashion revolution. to participate in that is another form space because of the social culture right across lifestyle choice-making in sibility criteria: no use of prohibited ISKO’s high-tech more than 25,000 products. By doing ISKO Pop, for example, keeps a com- From high end to high street, the of inclusion, but it comes at a price we are dealing with today. diet, health, beauty and fashion. “Just as and harmful substances; reduced machinery at work so, it achieved a world first, becom- ISKO PRODUCTION CAPACITY bination of comfort and a unique silky- past few years has seen retailers because it’s about spending money “As opposed to just tapping a in the indigo dying Brand rationale people are concerned about the food environmental impact; strict sustaina- ing the only denim manufacturer ever soft feel in a garment, no matter how such as Macy’s, Gap, Dolce & Gab- and not everyone has this money to brand to some sort of positive pro- process they put in their bodies, they question bility requirements for organic cotton to obtain pre-certified environmental many times it is washed, minimising use bana and Nike adding modest cloth- spend. It means that activities peo- gress and leaving it at that, fashion what they wear on their skin, conscious and recycled fibres, dyes and color- product declarations (EPDs). 300m 2k of fabric softeners and chemicals. ing – garments that cover more of ple might have experienced as being brands meshing themselves with of the environmental and social impact ants; plus assurances that the health These EPDs assess the life cycle metres of fabric high-tech ISKO Recall is a durable shape-mem- questioned in the body – to their lines. The fash- outside the market now become part Muslim inclusiveness could give of their choices,” says Ms Cortazzi. of both workers and consumers is con- of products, and provide data on per year automated ory fabric so jeans retain their flatter- ion, the coverage and the financial of the market. There are parallels hijabi women space to actually sidered uppermost. the water usage and carbon foot- looms ing fit better and require less washing, interest, including a recent invest- between the corporatisation of Gay speak towards those things or put RISE OF THE CONSCIOUS CONSUMER print per square metre of fabric to saving water and energy, as well as cut- ment by Goldman Sachs into Tur- Pride and the shift from community out a press statement which says we Evidence of conscious consumerism FIGHTING FAKERY AND GREENWASH enable buyers and customers to make ting down on carbon emissions. modest fashion key-based online retailer Modanisa, to corporate.” don’t stand with this when some- is everywhere. The most recent Cone In an era of fake news and so-called responsible sourcing choices with 35 25k+ ISKO Cottonized is a fabric entirely has led to a boom in the industry. As the modest fashion trend con- thing happens towards the commu- Communications CSR Study found that greenwash, it is vital environmental and clarity and confidence. countries with denim product derived from man-made fibres cre- Yet as it’s grown, so have the dis- tinues to grow and models such as nity. These are some of the things almost nine out of ten Americans (87 ethical claims actually stack up, says Ms Committed to raising awareness and ISKO offices portfolio ating the same look, drape and wash- cussions around representation, Ms Aden and Muslim sisters Bella that we really have to work on.” per cent) would purchase a product Cortazzi. “Right now, it is a nightmare standards of environmental and busi- down as traditional denim. Reducing revolution inclusion and the corporatisation of because a company advocated for an for buyers, designers and CEOs, as ness ethics, ISKO is a member of both the need to grow cotton, it frees up elements of the Muslim identity. issue. Going one step further, nearly as every garment factory or mill is claim- supply chain platform SEDEX and the land for food crops, saving on water, Reina Lewis, professor of culture Halima Aden signing ISKO HEAVILY INVESTS IN Gouri Sharma an issue of Sports many (76 per cent) would actively with- ing sustainable credentials,” she says. Ethical Trading Initiative. It is also a signa- RESEARCH AND PATENTED energy and emissions. The rise of modest fashion at the London College of Fashion, Illustrated Swimsuit, hold money from a company support- “Retail industry professionals want to tory to the Social & Labour Convergence INNOVATION University of the Arts London, and after becoming the ing contrary beliefs. do the right thing, but often don’t have Project, supporting and promoting REPORTING THE ROAD AHEAD has arguably changed alima Aden has just author of Muslim Fashion: Con- first model to wear a hijab and burkini What is more, the youth vote is even corporate social responsibility experts employees’ rights and workers’ welfare. Taken together, all these sustainability become the first model to temporary Style Cultures, has been the representation of H in the US magazine stronger. GlobalWebIndex surveys to support them. This is why it is really 20+ 100+ initiatives place ISKO in the vanguard of wear a hijab and burkini for researching modest fashion since found millennials (aged 22 to 35) most important to ensure claims are backed RESPONSIBILITY IN THE ROUND patents trademarks current best practice, but there is always Muslims in Western a photoshoot in US-based magazine the mid-2000s. She has long pre- likely to pay more for eco-friendly by a third party.” A truly strategic and systemic approach further to go and a better road to travel, Sports Illustrated Swimsuit. dicted that fashion would be the products last year, with Gen Z (16 to 21 Everything at ISKO has been veri- to sustainability calls for joined-up Ms Cortazzi concludes. “One of our next popular culture, but the The spread, in one of America’s larg- latest industry to combine ideology year olds) next. fied. In fact, ISKO has obtained life-cy- thinking and actions, says Ms Cortazzi. + projects will be to create a full sustain- est sports magazines that has an esti- and commerciality. Interestingly, the market player that cle assessments for every one of its “At ISKO, it is about a 360-degree 100 ability report. This will allow us to com- convergence of ideology mated two million subscribers, was “It is a new phase of commodifi- patents pending respondents ranked most responsi- approach. We promote a holistic municate to our customers our achieve- among one of the most high profile cation of the components of iden- ble for the future of the environment, mindset with a longstanding focus on ments to date and articulate future and corporatisation raises for the Somali-American model. As a tity, and we have seen this intersect second only to themselves as individ- responsibility, innovation and citi- targets, visions and policies on environ- important questions for result, it generated a positive response between religious, ethnic and racial uals and consumers, was not govern- zenship,” she says. “This goes beyond denim to newly patented technologies, ment, people, material and fibres. from various figures, with many identities before, for example with ment, brands or celebrities, but manu- just using low-impact materials, and is a testament to the company ethos of “When it comes to our responsible the industry marking it as a step forward for the kosher food,” she says. “Muslim-led facturers and production bodies. extends to our culture and systems.” responsible innovation. strategy, at ISKO, we do not believe representation of Muslims in the West. fashion brands have also contrib- Fundamentally, consumers know it’s Certified to international stand- in standing still. We believe quite the As Ms Aden said in an Instagram uted to this growth because they the makers that count; makers not just ards, an environmental management SPRINGBOARD FOR INNOVATION opposite, which is doing more and post: “Being in Sports Illustrated is helped build a niche market for of things, but of reputations and change. Just as people are concerned system ensures robust measure- Innovation is simply the norm at ISKO. stretching ourselves to the limit.” so much bigger than me. It’s send- cross-faith modest fashion which ment and monitoring of a full range of With 20 existing patents and over 100 ing a message to my community and demonstrated to the global fashion STANDARDS FOR SUSTAINABILITY about the food they put in their impacts at ISKO production facilities, more in the pipeline, the research the world that women of all different brand that this was a viable market. So what can brands and retailers do? bodies, they question what they including energy, water, waste, chemi- and development team of scientists, For further information please visit backgrounds, looks, upbringings can “In addition, there are the Islamic First and foremost they should drive cals and emissions. biologists and physicists is constantly iskodenim.com stand together and be celebrated. branding and marketing profes- supply chain accountability by asking wear on their skin, conscious This bedrock of sustainable produc- coming up with new ideas. This is a moment, that’s for sure.” sionals who have been building tough questions and auditing not only of the environmental and social tion underpins cutting-edge research Many of these innovations give ISKO a Ms Aden’s spread is one of the lat- specialisms, which have effectively their tier-one suppliers, but also tier and development undertaken at ISKO. competitive advantage, while bringing a est representations of hijabi mod- constructed Muslims as a global two and three. impact of their choices Every fabric, from the traditional responsible benefit for the planet, too. els in ad campaigns, runways and consumer segment. Initially that John Parra/Getty Images for Sports Illustrated 14 THE FASHION ECONOMY RACONTEUR.NET 15 Commercial feature

activity was focused on food, for example halal certification food, and then finance, such as Sharia-compli- ant mortgages. Fashion was always Fashion can only do going to be the third in the sequence ISKO denim, after food and finance.” a certain amount, US-based journalist Shamira Ibra- but one of the him, who writes on culture, poli- tics and identity for publications things that fashion fabric fit for including The Washington Post, The and its impact on Atlantic and VICE, says that while there has been some progress in public discussion terms of representation and inclu- can do is be a the conscious sion, brands can sometimes seem to be opportunistic. conduit for much “Brands are trying to assign some moral value to what they are putting wider discussion generation out. And sometimes that is a little specious because they are trying to assert some sort of value to the product ,while the people they are and Gigi Hadid adorn ad campaigns A responsible enterprise, with sustainability at trying to represent are dealing with and catwalks, discussions around the top of its business agenda, appeals to an real things day-to-day and there’s inclusivity and representation of not a lot of specific effort, socially, to Muslim women are likely to con- environmentally conscious customer stand with that,” says Ms Ibrahim. tinue filling column inches. Professor Lewis says despite some It’s something Professor Lewis benefits amid a corporatisation of thinks is encouraging. “In a way, components of identity, disadvan- more inclusivity widens the frame he planet is in the news. With ISKO, as a denim mill, would be tages are also arising. for how Muslims are ‘seen, under- T climate breakdown making considered a tier-two supplier, “I do feel that people in the major- stood, perceived’. Fashion can only the wrong kind of headlines, but that does not justify any drop ity culture, which in the UK could do a certain amount, but one of the environmental awareness and activ- in standards, argues Ms Cortazzi. be Christian, secularish and white, things that fashion and its impact ism is on the up, and young people are “Everything we make is produced in or Muslim in Saudi, find it very on public discussion can do is be a taking to the streets. a responsible way and you don’t just hard to understand how much peo- conduit for much wider discussion,” They are also exercising spend- have to take our word for that,” she ple from minority cultures may she says. ing power at the retail checkout, says says. “The pinnacle of our sus- feel excluded if they are disenfran- For Ms Ibrahim, meanwhile, a step Rosey Cortazzi, global marketing direc- tainability offer, the ISKO Earth Fit chised from the dominant cultural forward in the discussion would see Customers at tor at ISKO, the largest denim manu- collection, has obtained two inde- forms,” she says. brands play a bigger role in inclusiv- FashionValet in Kuala facturer under one roof in the world. pendent certifications.” Lumpur, Malaysia “So that could mean black peo- ity in a socio-economic context. “Customers, especially Gen Y and Gen More often seen on cosmetics and Getty Images via Das/Bloomberg Sanjit ple never seeing themselves on TV She concludes: “When it comes to Z, are prepared to walk away from com- household products, these are the or not being able to go shopping fashion, we have to realise that the panies that cannot demonstrate they stringent Nordic Swan Ecolabel and MODEST FASHION photoshoots, and comes amid a because consumer cultures like same hijab or burkini that Halima are good corporate citizens,” she says. EU Ecolabel, both of which are directly wider moment currently occurring fashion and shopping are predomi- Aden is being praised for is still a “Transparency and traceability matter.” recognised by the end-consumer. in the Western fashion industry, the nant cultural forms now. Being able brave choice for women in a public This desire for value alignment extends Together they verify multiple respon- so-called modest fashion revolution. to participate in that is another form space because of the social culture right across lifestyle choice-making in sibility criteria: no use of prohibited ISKO’s high-tech more than 25,000 products. By doing ISKO Pop, for example, keeps a com- From high end to high street, the of inclusion, but it comes at a price we are dealing with today. diet, health, beauty and fashion. “Just as and harmful substances; reduced machinery at work so, it achieved a world first, becom- ISKO PRODUCTION CAPACITY bination of comfort and a unique silky- past few years has seen retailers because it’s about spending money “As opposed to just tapping a in the indigo dying Brand rationale people are concerned about the food environmental impact; strict sustaina- ing the only denim manufacturer ever soft feel in a garment, no matter how such as Macy’s, Gap, Dolce & Gab- and not everyone has this money to brand to some sort of positive pro- process they put in their bodies, they question bility requirements for organic cotton to obtain pre-certified environmental many times it is washed, minimising use bana and Nike adding modest cloth- spend. It means that activities peo- gress and leaving it at that, fashion what they wear on their skin, conscious and recycled fibres, dyes and color- product declarations (EPDs). 300m 2k of fabric softeners and chemicals. ing – garments that cover more of ple might have experienced as being brands meshing themselves with of the environmental and social impact ants; plus assurances that the health These EPDs assess the life cycle metres of fabric high-tech ISKO Recall is a durable shape-mem- questioned in the body – to their lines. The fash- outside the market now become part Muslim inclusiveness could give of their choices,” says Ms Cortazzi. of both workers and consumers is con- of products, and provide data on per year automated ory fabric so jeans retain their flatter- ion, the coverage and the financial of the market. There are parallels hijabi women space to actually sidered uppermost. the water usage and carbon foot- looms ing fit better and require less washing, interest, including a recent invest- between the corporatisation of Gay speak towards those things or put RISE OF THE CONSCIOUS CONSUMER print per square metre of fabric to saving water and energy, as well as cut- ment by Goldman Sachs into Tur- Pride and the shift from community out a press statement which says we Evidence of conscious consumerism FIGHTING FAKERY AND GREENWASH enable buyers and customers to make ting down on carbon emissions. modest fashion key-based online retailer Modanisa, to corporate.” don’t stand with this when some- is everywhere. The most recent Cone In an era of fake news and so-called responsible sourcing choices with 35 25k+ ISKO Cottonized is a fabric entirely has led to a boom in the industry. As the modest fashion trend con- thing happens towards the commu- Communications CSR Study found that greenwash, it is vital environmental and clarity and confidence. countries with denim product derived from man-made fibres cre- Yet as it’s grown, so have the dis- tinues to grow and models such as nity. These are some of the things almost nine out of ten Americans (87 ethical claims actually stack up, says Ms Committed to raising awareness and ISKO offices portfolio ating the same look, drape and wash- cussions around representation, Ms Aden and Muslim sisters Bella that we really have to work on.” per cent) would purchase a product Cortazzi. “Right now, it is a nightmare standards of environmental and busi- down as traditional denim. Reducing revolution inclusion and the corporatisation of because a company advocated for an for buyers, designers and CEOs, as ness ethics, ISKO is a member of both the need to grow cotton, it frees up elements of the Muslim identity. issue. Going one step further, nearly as every garment factory or mill is claim- supply chain platform SEDEX and the land for food crops, saving on water, Reina Lewis, professor of culture Halima Aden signing ISKO HEAVILY INVESTS IN Gouri Sharma an issue of Sports many (76 per cent) would actively with- ing sustainable credentials,” she says. Ethical Trading Initiative. It is also a signa- RESEARCH AND PATENTED energy and emissions. The rise of modest fashion at the London College of Fashion, Illustrated Swimsuit, hold money from a company support- “Retail industry professionals want to tory to the Social & Labour Convergence INNOVATION University of the Arts London, and after becoming the ing contrary beliefs. do the right thing, but often don’t have Project, supporting and promoting REPORTING THE ROAD AHEAD has arguably changed alima Aden has just author of Muslim Fashion: Con- first model to wear a hijab and burkini What is more, the youth vote is even corporate social responsibility experts employees’ rights and workers’ welfare. Taken together, all these sustainability become the first model to temporary Style Cultures, has been the representation of H in the US magazine stronger. GlobalWebIndex surveys to support them. This is why it is really 20+ 100+ initiatives place ISKO in the vanguard of wear a hijab and burkini for researching modest fashion since found millennials (aged 22 to 35) most important to ensure claims are backed RESPONSIBILITY IN THE ROUND patents trademarks current best practice, but there is always Muslims in Western a photoshoot in US-based magazine the mid-2000s. She has long pre- likely to pay more for eco-friendly by a third party.” A truly strategic and systemic approach further to go and a better road to travel, Sports Illustrated Swimsuit. dicted that fashion would be the products last year, with Gen Z (16 to 21 Everything at ISKO has been veri- to sustainability calls for joined-up Ms Cortazzi concludes. “One of our next popular culture, but the The spread, in one of America’s larg- latest industry to combine ideology year olds) next. fied. In fact, ISKO has obtained life-cy- thinking and actions, says Ms Cortazzi. + projects will be to create a full sustain- est sports magazines that has an esti- and commerciality. Interestingly, the market player that cle assessments for every one of its “At ISKO, it is about a 360-degree 100 ability report. This will allow us to com- convergence of ideology mated two million subscribers, was “It is a new phase of commodifi- patents pending respondents ranked most responsi- approach. We promote a holistic municate to our customers our achieve- among one of the most high profile cation of the components of iden- ble for the future of the environment, mindset with a longstanding focus on ments to date and articulate future and corporatisation raises for the Somali-American model. As a tity, and we have seen this intersect second only to themselves as individ- responsibility, innovation and citi- targets, visions and policies on environ- important questions for result, it generated a positive response between religious, ethnic and racial uals and consumers, was not govern- zenship,” she says. “This goes beyond denim to newly patented technologies, ment, people, material and fibres. from various figures, with many identities before, for example with ment, brands or celebrities, but manu- just using low-impact materials, and is a testament to the company ethos of “When it comes to our responsible the industry marking it as a step forward for the kosher food,” she says. “Muslim-led facturers and production bodies. extends to our culture and systems.” responsible innovation. strategy, at ISKO, we do not believe representation of Muslims in the West. fashion brands have also contrib- Fundamentally, consumers know it’s Certified to international stand- in standing still. We believe quite the As Ms Aden said in an Instagram uted to this growth because they the makers that count; makers not just ards, an environmental management SPRINGBOARD FOR INNOVATION opposite, which is doing more and post: “Being in Sports Illustrated is helped build a niche market for of things, but of reputations and change. Just as people are concerned system ensures robust measure- Innovation is simply the norm at ISKO. stretching ourselves to the limit.” so much bigger than me. It’s send- cross-faith modest fashion which ment and monitoring of a full range of With 20 existing patents and over 100 ing a message to my community and demonstrated to the global fashion STANDARDS FOR SUSTAINABILITY about the food they put in their impacts at ISKO production facilities, more in the pipeline, the research the world that women of all different brand that this was a viable market. So what can brands and retailers do? bodies, they question what they including energy, water, waste, chemi- and development team of scientists, For further information please visit backgrounds, looks, upbringings can “In addition, there are the Islamic First and foremost they should drive cals and emissions. biologists and physicists is constantly iskodenim.com stand together and be celebrated. branding and marketing profes- supply chain accountability by asking wear on their skin, conscious This bedrock of sustainable produc- coming up with new ideas. This is a moment, that’s for sure.” sionals who have been building tough questions and auditing not only of the environmental and social tion underpins cutting-edge research Many of these innovations give ISKO a Ms Aden’s spread is one of the lat- specialisms, which have effectively their tier-one suppliers, but also tier and development undertaken at ISKO. competitive advantage, while bringing a est representations of hijabi mod- constructed Muslims as a global two and three. impact of their choices Every fabric, from the traditional responsible benefit for the planet, too. els in ad campaigns, runways and consumer segment. Initially that John Parra/Getty Images for Sports Illustrated 16 THE FASHION ECONOMY RACONTEUR.NET 17 Commercial feature Elvis & Kresse

For Elvis & Kresse, the story began Avery Dennison’s 2025 Sustainability Goals

back in 2005, at a chance meeting Kresse & Elvis SUSTAINABILITY with an unlikely source of raw mate- Greenhouse Gas Emissions rial for a luxury accessories brand, Reduce absolutely greenhouse gas emissions by 3% every year. the London Fire Brigade. Having learnt how decommis- Paper Reuse and recycle: sioned damaged fire hoses headed Source 100% certified claim paper, 70% will be Forest Stewardship to landfill, founders Kresse Wesling Council (FSC) –certified. and James “Elvis” Henrit set out to rescue the resource. Waste low waste, high reward For more than a decade now, Our operations will be 95% landfill-free, with a 75% of waste repurposed no London fire hose has gone to and we will help our customers reduce the waste from our products by 70%. landfill, with over 175 tonnes of Five pioneering companies are using innovative material reclaimed. Chemicals In 2017, the Burberry Foundation “Providing full transparency3 and 70% of the chemicals we buy will conform to our sustainability principles. methods to reuse and recycle textiles and other teamed up with Elvis & Kresse to sustainability, while still making a tackle leather waste. Their five-year profit is the main challenge ethical Films products that would otherwise go to landfill partnership will see 120 tonnes of businesses face right now,” she says. 70% of the films we buy will conform to our sustainability principles. off-cuts recrafted. “More and more brands, though, Sustainable fashion needs suc- manage to find a balance and Elvis & Products and Solutions cess stories, says Susan Stevens, Kresse is the perfect example.” Use innovation in sustainability—ours and others’—to grow revenues from chief executive and founder of A social enterprise and certified B sustainability-driven products and services. Jim McClelland Made with Respect, a curated col- Corp, Elvis & Kresse donates half the lection of handcrafted sustainable profits from its fire-hose range to the People Continue to cultivate a diverse, engaged, productive and healthy workforce luxury brands. Fire Fighters Charity. Deakin and Blue with an industry-leading safety record worldwide.

Teemill Transparency Described as transformational, Commit to goals publicly and be transparent in reporting progress Deakin and Blue produces ocean- material requires only a fraction of against them. friendly swimwear for women who not the energy typically used to create

only wish to look and feel good, but Hugs & Co. new shoe soles, with production also

might actually want to swim, too. generating just a tenth of the CO2. With suppliers certified to Oeko-Tex Importantly, the design helps standards for textile products, cos- highlight the need to tackle the tumes are produced in London from problem of waste tyres. In the UK charity shops are located and where create a micro-economy, they ensure ECONYL yarn, a 100 per cent regener- alone, more than 100,000 tyres are used items can be donated, based on the Avery Dennison can have a robust ated nylon fibre made from post-con- taken off vehicles every single day, Enabling transparency user’s location. supply chain of material and also act as sumer waste, including “ghost gear” of generating both serious environ- It’s estimated there are close to a force for good in the wider industry. old fishing nets. mental impact potential and signif- 150 million tons of plastic in the “Avery Dennison is uniquely posi- Unique to Deakin and Blue is a icant material resource prospects. world’s oceans, with 80 per cent of tioned in the industry, especially in groundbreaking inclusive sizing sys- Opening the door to creative, and visibility across the this amount disposed of by countries where we fit in the supply chain. Our tem and the company eschews such commercial responses, such as the in extreme poverty. To combat the business model requires us to have regressive clichés of swimwear mar- TS1, the circular economy is usher- spread of single-use plastics from very strong relationships at both keting as airbrushed, sexualised mod- ing manufacturers and makers into labelling and decrease plastic pollu- a brand and retail level. But it also els, instead showcasing its garments the next world of materials, where fashion supply chain tion, Avery Dennison has a patent for requires us to have very strong rela- on a range of body shapes and sizes. leftovers await rediscovery as a sustainable woven labels and printed tionships at a manufacturing level, According to Robert Blood, founder 4 source of value. fabric labels, commonly used to show too,” says Mr Colarossi. Hugs & Co. and managing director of the NGO It can even do so with style, says information on what the garment is “We believe that our solutions can tracking and issues analysis con- Marketed as the the British driving Susan Harris, technical director information about specific items along made from and how to care for it. The help brands and retailers, as well as sultancy SIGWATCH, a challenge loafer, the new TS1 design from lux- at Anthesis. “Finding new uses for Improving transparency and visibility in the the supply chain, which allows for a very labels are made from recycled polyes- garment manufacturers, become more for brands is to meet the contradic- ury footwear firm Hugs & Co. fea- materials we used to think of as fashion supply chain helps avoid waste and efficient and accurate way of improving ter and can be recycled. efficient and take waste out of their tory consumer demand for tough- tures as innovative sole made from waste can not only lower costs, but the visibility from the moment an item Avery Dennison is actively licensing systems and drive circularity through ness, lightness and innovation, com- upcycled tyre treads. also reduce environmental impacts create a sustainable circular economy is created, through to its journey on this patent to others in the industry what our products offer.” bined with more eco-friendly and As well as providing improved and inspire a beautiful industrial the supply chain, all the way through to and donating large parts of the licence Avery Dennison has an influence that natural materials. durability and grip, the repurposed aesthetic,” she says. retail and eventually with the consumer fee to Plastic Bank. extends throughout its supply chain to “Reusing plastic waste is inter- in their home,” says Francisco Melo, vice Through a partnership with Plastic champion issues of sustainability. From esting. Another approach is replac- t’s hardly breaking news that Avery Dennison, a global apparel label- president and general manager, global Bank, an organisation focused on ensuring that its suppliers and the ing petroleum-based materials with I the clothing and textile indus- ling and RFID (radio-frequency identifi- RFID at Avery Dennison. reducing the amount of plastic waste organisations it works with are abiding modified natural ones,” he says. Gucci try is responsible for 10 per cation) specialist. For apparel businesses, using RFID in our oceans and waterways, Avery by the highest standards from a social “Reebok recently won praise from ani- cent of global greenhouse gas emis- By leveraging its singular size and scale, to identify exactly where stock is in the Dennison will be providing funds to and environmental perspective, Avery mal rights group PETA for a ‘vegan’ Sustainable luxury is a matter of sions. But key players in the sector are Avery Dennison is able to address the supply chain helps optimise distribution support a global system for recycling Dennison ensures it is driving the right non-plastic shoe made entirely from balance. At Gucci, the optimal com- working to address this critical issue core problems facing the fashion indus- and shipping, and with Janela consumers plastics with the creation of recycling behaviour in the industry. cotton and corn.” bination of aesthetics and ethics is and ensure sustainability becomes a try and bring together stakeholders at all are also able to gain insight from these centres in areas at highest risk of plas- “As one of the largest players in the called “equilibrium”. top priority. From moving towards a levels of the supply chain to make mean- intelligent labels. Not only can Janela give tic pollution. This initiative reduces the apparel space, we have an obligation to Gucci is one of the world-leading more circular economy, where recy- ingful differences in the communities consumers detailed information on how amount of plastic in the ocean, as well as continue to act as a force for good, and fashion brands that make up the cled products become commonplace, where it operates. a garment is manufactured, how it can improving the lives of people in poverty. work with our communities, suppliers, 1 Kering Group. A pioneer in reporting to limiting waste through innovative The enabling of a transparent supply be styled and cared for, it can also give “As a materials science company, brands and retailers to drive this idea Rapanui from seed to shop. The brand also on impacts, Kering produces an envi- technologies, there are countless for- chain that allows customers to have access to recycling information, includ- we are always looking into ways of of sustainability,” says Mr Colarossi. pays people to return products for ronmental profit and loss (EP&L). ward-thinking solutions to this com- more visibility over the journey of their ing where the nearest second-hand or making our materials more sustaina- The transition to a more sustainable Founded a decade ago in a shed on remanufacturing at end of life. It has The EP&L measures carbon emis- plex challenge. products and production systems will ble and ensuring that we reduce waste and circular economy in the apparel the Isle of Wight, Rapanui now makes even created a cloud-based platform sions, water, pollution, land use and “The question of how we can make be well suited to deal with waste. When across the board, reduce landfill and industry will clearly benefit the envi- clothes from certified organic cotton, called Teemill to share its circular waste along the entire supply chain, our products more sustainable and a company lacks a connected supply help encourage a more sustainable ronment, but this shift is about more in a wind-powered factory and using supply chain online, for free. with an ambitious target to shrink more circular is at the centre of the chain, it can be prone to issues of over- approach to the market,” says Mr Melo. than just doing what’s right, it’s also low-waste print technology. Sustainability is a core business its footprint 40 per cent by 2025. work we do. For example, we’re work- production, which will result in unneces- Plastic Bank is encouraging local good for business. The company’s growing partners value and technology helps make Focused on upcycling waste, Gucci ing on reducing the weight of our prod- sary waste. organisations and individuals to collect “We believe those companies which optimise use of rainwater, co-plant- it affordable, says Ishwari Thopte, Up reused 11 tons of leather scraps in Andersphoto/Shutterstock ucts, and increasing the content of Avery Dennison’s Janela™ solution is a plastic bottles and plastic waste from operate and behave sustainably going ing and insect traps, plus a special fashion tech manager at the Centre 2018 and collected 92 tons of textiles. 5 recycled materials, as well as offering pioneering consumer engagement inno- the environment before it enters the forward are going to be the ones that ingredient: cow poo. Its manufac- for Fashion Enterprise. “With the This is sustainability at scale and These numbers are significant, a solution where scrap is taken from vation providing visibility of a product’s Transition to a more sustainable water stream. These individuals earn are successful,” he concludes. turing supply chain employs renew- help of technology driving an responds to mainstreaming of both Wearisma chief executive and our process and reprocessed into a journey within the supply chain. When credits for plastic collection, which can able energy throughout, and recov- open-source approach, brands are corporate responsibility and con- founder Jenny Tsai concludes. She yarn that we can then incorporate into linked with RFID technology, it optimises and circular economy in the be used to buy school tuition for their ers and recirculates wastewater now able to share products and ser- sumer awareness. says: “Sustainability is no longer our solutions going forward. We‘re also the supply chain for many firms in the apparel industry will clearly benefit children, clothing or cooking oil. For more information please visit cleaned to a standard good enough vices that find value beyond profit According to data from Wearisma, simply a ‘trending topic’; its impor- looking at ways that our digital solutions apparel industry, resulting in lower levels Once all the plastic has been col- averydennison.com/rbis to drink. in an often insular and competi- an influencer intelligence and ana- tance is now lodged in much of the can enable recycling of garments,” of waste and improving transparency for the environment, but this shift is lected, Plastic Bank then works with Rapanui has pioneered a trace- tive industry. Rapauni’s Teemill lytics company, 14 per cent of influ- public conscience, driving how says Michael Colarossi, vice president, the consumer. organisations to bring it back into the ability tool allowing conscientious service is an excellent example,” encers have mentioned sustainabili- influencers relate authentically to innovation, product line management “Our RFID and Janela solution is a about more than just doing what’s supply chain. Projects like this don’t just Deakin and Blue consumers to map their T-shirt, she says. 2 ty-related topics in 2019 so far. their audiences.” and sustainability, apparel solutions at digital knowledge base that provides right, it’s also good for business incentivise the local community and 16 THE FASHION ECONOMY RACONTEUR.NET 17 Commercial feature Elvis & Kresse

For Elvis & Kresse, the story began Avery Dennison’s 2025 Sustainability Goals

only wish to look and feel good, but Hugs & Co. new shoe soles, with production also

INFLUENCERS Furstenberg, and YouTubers James credibility makes them the right OPINION Charles (15.3 million followers), Liza influencers for fashion brands look- Koshy (17.8 million followers) and ing to add substance and wider cul- Lilly Singh (8.8 million followers) For a long time marketers tural clout to their brand. were invited by YouTube. and brands have talked about Recently, much talk has been made Fashion YouTube, owned by Google, around micro-influencers. Some new bought several tables at this year’s ‘authenticity’, but perhaps a fashion brands have built their busi- ‘Retailers must Met Gala, as the company vies to ness strategy entirely around a select establish itself as a convincing plat- more accurate measure of an few influencers and a highly tar- influencers form for the fashion industry. In the individual's ability to influence geted Instagram marketing strategy. provide fashion that past it has struggled to lure fashion Budapest-based Nanushka, which was followers from Instagram but this is credibility hardly known two years ago, is now Are your stores year attracted big names such as carried by Net-a-Porter and Farfetch is affordable to all take the reins Alexa Chung, Naomi Campbell and following a successful targeted Victoria Beckham, who all set up Instagram campaign and Instagram income brackets while their own channels. endorsements from fashion stylist How consumers view and engage with With the value of the influencer how London had six fashion blog- @monikh and blogger @songofstyle. built for the economy predicted to stretch to gers who would be taken to PR paid- Influencers are also deepening respecting their societal fashion brands is being transformed by between $5 billion and $10 billion in for events to populate their posts. their commercial ties to brands high-profile influencers, who are now terms of global advertising spend by Now, there are literally thousands. directly. Leandra Medine, the 2022, according to Business Insider That Amazon, the apex of mass founder of the online fashion responsibilities for gracing the red carpets of the most elite Intelligence, the takeover almost consumerism, is to launch a lim- blog-cum-magazine Man Repeller, seems complete. Century-old fash- ited edition collection designed by has reportedly invested in the young digital age? events and deepening their commercial ion houses and online-only brands global influencers in collaboration direct-to-consumer activewear sustainable production’ founded this week are able to find with The Drop to go live internation- brand Outdoor Voices and under- ties in the industry a niche influencer to act as a living ally for 30 hours only, is a sign that wear brand Lively and offers consul- brand ambassador. influencers are now an integral part tation services to fashion brands. Brick-and-mortar stores The ubiquity of influencers, the not just of marketing and sales, but Others are rewriting their contracts ocial and environmental Retailers that have signed up to the saturation of social platforms with also product development. to swap retainers for equity. Lifestyle S impact of our clothing is initiative are committing to meet- aren’t going extinct – “sponsored content”, and consum- Like weight-classes in boxing, blogger Arielle Charnas owns a sin- increasingly being scruti- ing targets within the SDGs and Sharon Thiruchelvam ers’ scepticism over manufactured influencers’ clout is divided into var- gle-digit percentage stake in Bandier nised by consumers, NGOs, politi- working collaboratively to ensure content makes the terrain for fash- ious leagues: nano-influencers (800 and frequently mentions the retailer cians and retailers themselves. Recent the industry can meet the UN’s own they’re evolving. nfluencers have finally 19-year-old make-up artist and ion brands more difficult to navi- to 10,000 followers), micro-influenc- in her Instagram stories and posts. reports, including the Commons envi- targets for 2030. I infiltrated the most elite beauty blogger known for his ultra- gate. For a long time marketers and ers (10,000 to 50,000), macro-influ- She reports that she has no agreed ronmental audit committee report Lately, there has been intense media circles of the fashion com- high definition looks, it was no less brands have talked about “authen- encers (100,000 to one million) and contract on how often she should published in February, have focused focus on fast fashion and the link to munity. When four social media- than “a step forward in the right ticity”, but perhaps a more accurate ultra-influencers (more than one mention the retailer, allowing her on the amount of textile waste, the microfibres, microscopic plastic frag- born starlets graced the red carpet direction for influencer representa- measure of an individual's ability to million). In theory, there is an influ- endorsements to appear natural. impact on the environment and the ments that get into our water systems of the Met Gala – a charity-fundrais- tion in the media”. influence is credibility. encer suitable for every brand’s stat- According to industry publication, social cost of our fashion choices. and harm marine life. Many of these The Detego Platform enables fashion retailers to reinvent their physical ing pageant hosted by New York’s Like all influencer collabora- Emily Jane Johnston, who runs ure, price point and budget. Business of Fashion, fashion influ- Such scrutiny is a key part of encour- microfibres come from our own cloth- Metropolitan Museum of Art's tions, a sponsorship deal had made the blog Fashion Foie Gras and could Indeed, a report from the online encers have taken inspiration from aging transparency among retailers ing, entering the water supplies when stores and supply chains with intelligent stock management, item-level Costume Institute – this year, a sig- the appearance possible. Camila be considered an ‘influencer vet- streetwear magazine HypeBeast the entertainment industry, where and manufacturers in both the UK and we wash our own synthetic clothing, transparency and innovative methods of consumer engagement in stores. nificant threshold was crossed. Coelho (7.9 million Instagram fol- eran’, having started blogging in found that only a third of streetwear established actors and musicians abroad. British retailers are embracing such as polyester and nylon. Attendance for the event is strictly lowers) attended as a guest of the 2008 when Instagram was a niche enthusiasts surveyed considered have graduated from simply starring greater openness by providing better The full implications of microfibres vetted. For James Charles, the womenswear designer Diane von platform for photographers, recalls social media influencers the most in films or being “repped” by a record information about where our clothes entering the marine ecosystems and credible figures in streetwear. The company, to running their own pro- come from and the ethical standards food chains are yet to be fully under- With 10 years’ experience implementing RFID-based software solutions in large survey of nearly 41,000 con- duction houses and studios that allow they adhere to. stood, but retailers, academics, NGOs the fashion industry, Detego have the technical expertise and innovative sumers around the world found that them creative and financial control, Retailers must provide fashion that and manufacturers are working hard musicians, industry insiders and while investing in new talent. is affordable to all income brackets to raise awareness and find viable partnership approach which has seen on-going success with many major contemporary artists were consid- Successful fashion influencers, while respecting their societal respon- solutions that will prevent this issue ered most influential. Their credibil- who have only ever earned their keep sibilities for sustainable production. getting worse. fashion retailers. ity came well ahead of social media through social media and paid-for Articles about “£5 dresses” bring up Another issue rising through the influencers, celebrities and athletes. content, aren’t just pretty faces with important questions about sustaina- media consciousness has been the We are already seeing influencers great self-styling skills, but often also bility, but also how we reduce the cost environmental and ethical implica- Matt Winkelmeyer/Getty Images Winkelmeyer/Getty Matt emerge who aren’t sole, full-time astute business people. Many have a of living for those who have suffered tions of animal-derived products in Revolutionize stock counts social media figures, but are also keen sense of the inside workings of years of minimal real wage growth. fashion, from wool and leather, to the measured by their success in what- the industry, particularly its finan- The British Retail Consortium (BRC) animal-derived dyes and glues. This ever industry they work in, be it cial levers, and are continuing to and our members are trying to miti- has led to the rise in vegan clothing interior design, beauty, art, fashion, challenge the status quote when it gate the social and environmental cost and footwear lines from a variety of Ensure product availability sport or even gardening, and that comes to fashion marketing. of the fashion industry throughout the retailers. The complex nature of fash- supply chain. Retailers recognise they ion supply chains is forcing retail- have a duty to reduce the impacts of ers to scrutinise the whole journey of clothing on carbon, water and waste, their clothing from the farm to the Real-time supply chain visibility HOW MARKETERS MEASURE THE SUCCESS especially as the industry meets the factory to the outlet. OF AN INFLUENCER CAMPAIGN demands of a growing population. Fashion is incredibly important, not Global, cross-industry survey of consumer-facing marketing professionals This impact will occur regardless of just to the retail industry, but to the Action-orientated insights the materials used in fashion. Natural UK economy. The BRC is committed fibres such as cotton must be grown, to bringing together retailers behind a 47% 1% requiring land and water, whereas common set of measurable goals that synthetic fibres like polyester, while can ensure a future of sustainable and Engage customers in-store Conversions/ Other recyclable, require fossil fuels to make. ethical fashion consumers trust. sales Thankfully, progress is being made. 10% From 2012 to 2016, the amount of water and carbon required to make each Quality tonne of clothing has fallen by 6.5 per of the cent and 8 per cent respectively. The content BRC, working with retailers, manufacturers, consumers and government, aims to create, foster and disseminate good practice across the industry. And more can be done. Our Better Retail Better World campaign builds on a framework set out by the United 26% 16% Nation’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) to drive industry co-oper- Influencer Camila Coelho Engagement/ Views/reach/ ation on issues such as climate change, Visit www.detego.com/yourfuture attended the Met Gala as a guest of designer Diane clicks impressions deforestation, gender equality and Helen Dickinson von Furstenberg responsible production, all of which Chief executive Relatable 2019 are impacting the fashion industry. British Retail Consortium 18 THE FASHION ECONOMY RACONTEUR.NET 19

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