#473 23 - 29 October 2009 16 pages Rs 30

Hu cares? PRAKASH DAHAL

t a time when India- Beijing, which was happy timing. reassure bothpowers on political China relations are with the way the Maoists cracked We don’t know what China’s unity in , rather than try to A returning to near-Cold down on pro-Tibet activities message was, but sources say use one to irritate the other. What War levels, the Maoists have while they were in power, seems Beijing underlined the need for Dahal’s visit seems to have done been trying to play Nepal’s two to be only too happy to play stability in Nepal and Premier Hu is made the Indians even more giant neighbours against each along. Dahal’s visit to China last was worried about the growing paranoid, and to conclude that other. Having concluded that week, during which he also met political drift in Kathmandu. If the Maoists can’t be trusted. Delhi masterminded its briefly with Premier Hu Jintao India and This downfall from government May, was either perfect, or disastrous, China are PLAIN SPEAKING Prashant Jha p2 picture of Maoist chairman Pushpa Kamal shadow- Unstable stability the two Dahal has been cosying up to boxing, and shaking China. that seems to be what is hands in Jinan on 16 October was happening, then it may be better taken by Dahal’s son Prakash and for Nepali leaders to try to is exclusive to Nepali Times.z 2 EDITORIAL 23 - 29 OCTOBER 2009 #473

Published by Himalmedia Pvt Ltd, Editor: Kunda Dixit Desk Editor: Rabi Thapa CEO: Ashutosh Tiwari Design: Kiran Maharjan DGM Sales and Marketing: Sambhu Guragain [email protected] Marketing Manager: Subhash Kumar Asst. Manager: Arjun Karki Hatiban, Godavari Road, Lalitpur Fax: 5251013 [email protected] GPO Box 7251, Kathmandu 5250333/845 www.nepalitimes.com Unstable stability Printed at Jagadamba Press 5250017-19 Nepal’s political future is locked into India’s dilemmas onvincing the Indians of Kashmir’. Delhi has already given not address the root issues of DEMONSTRATING DEMOCRACY the need to help salvage the go-ahead to Dalai Lama to justice, displacement and tribal The current debate on the kind of federalism the new constitution C the Nepali peace process is visit Arunachal, and has now exploitation, and will only lead should incorporate doesn’t take into account Nepal’s experience getting harder. This is because of decided not to issue workvisas to to ‘collateral damage’, impose with decentralised development in the 1990s. The devolution of reasons both internal to Nepal, unskilled Chinese workers. development models that people political power to elected local councils was beginning to deliver and the broader context in which Analysts have offered various do not want, and alienate them services to the grassroots. While governance at the national level Delhi has to make certain explanations for the stand-off. even more. floundered, village and district councils proved accountability was fundamental decisions. Whatever the reason, this is not Across the board, however, a the key. The Indian state today is about to descend into a conflict. common refrain has been, “Why This success was itself based on Nepal’s tradition of community facing two big issues that will Both powers recognise the don’t our Maoists imitate the management of water and forests by local groups – a system that has been historically undervalued by successive central have long-lasting consequences incentives for cooperation. The Nepali Maoists? Look, they gave governments. Modern governance structures choked these for its own stability and for two Prime Ministers meet in up violence and participated in practices, and community groups were, and remain, largely Nepal. Thailand soon. Foreign office elections.” Ironically, even BJP forgotten. spokespersons are already toning leaders – who opposed our peace Until now. The Nobel prize in economics awarded to Elinor down the rhetoric. India and process – have been making these Ostrom last week brought much-needed recognition to the PLAIN SPEAKING China just signed an MOU on arguments. exemplary work of communities. Ostrom’s research demonstrates Prashant Jha climate change. Trade is The Indian establishment that goods like water, which can be fairly inexpensively rationed, skyrocketing. could see the utility of getting may be better managed collectively within communities than if But the trust deficit has the Nepali Maoists back into the privatised. It echoes, indeed draws inspiration from, Nepal’s own The first is the growing sharply increased. power structure to project them experience with community initiatives. And it validates grassroots tension with China. Strategic Right in the middle of this, as a ‘role model’ to their Indian democracy in the country and the region at a time when it has become fashionable to be cynical about it. Democracy isn’t just fair, circles are agog with speculation with either a perfect, or comrades. Or it may feel that it’s good economics. about whether the global system disastrous, sense of timing, their utility is now over. The role Ostrom goes further, saying that the more democratic a can accommodate two rising Mr Pushpa Kamal Dahal went off model argument has been made community initiative is internally (the more of a say resource users powers simultaneously and to China. We do not know what but the Naxalites, in any case, are have in the rules by which they are used) the more successful it is peacefully – especially when Beijing told him – to behave, be not buying it. Nepali Maoists are likely to be. The implications can be revolutionary: it means caste- they have fought a bitter war, flexible and finish the peace already over-ground, and can be obsessed villagers will have to stomach their reservations and share contested borders, and process or to agitate and take on kept trapped in the process cooperate with the lower castes to buy into proven community compete for resources and power. India with Chinese support. But without offering them real power. forestry or irrigation programs. The past fortnight has seen what the visit has done is prove Against this national and Nepal’s 40-year experience with community forestry bears this Beijing ratchet up the rhetoric on to sections in Delhi that the regional backdrop, Delhi has to out, having done much to restore canopy cover and address poverty Man Mohan Singh’s Arunachal Maoists cannot be trusted. answer two questions. and discrimination. It now accounts for 40 per cent of forestry activities in the country, and plans are afoot to ensure its benefits visit. Uncharacteristically, India The second challenge for Can it live with a Maoist- are spread more equitably. Community forestry also showed what a hit back, asking China to stay India is ‘Operation Green Hunt’, a dominated power structure in blunder the nationalisation of forests in the 1960s was, and how away from ‘Pakistan-occupied massive security offensive spread Nepal – even though they have quickly villages bounced back once ownership was across central and eastern not undergone the prescribed transferred to grassroots groups. India against the ‘course correction’, continue to To be sure, not everything has gone smoothly. Communist Party of India court China, maintain an all- Bureaucrats who can score a tidy commission by (Maoist). Paramilitary troops embracing party structure, and privatising public resources are trying to assert control. with heavy weaponry are stick to their ideological line? And despite the social changes they’ve wrought, being deployed with the And can it live with a radically communities are still dominated by the local elite. The support of Air Force different Nepali state – where government will have to step in as regulator. In an email helicopters. There are plans political elites may not be as this week, Ostrom told us: “When democratic national regimes recognise the rights of local peoples to self- to launch coordinated pliable to Indian concerns, where organise, their rights are usually better protected. Due, attacks to recover the forest multiple ‘autonomous’ provinces however, to the earlier academic and policy known as Abuj-Marh, which exist that may embarrass India, presumption that ‘the’ government needs to handle serves as a base area for the for instance by declaring the caste most problems related to common-pool resources, Maoists, and then move into system a human rights abuse even democratic regimes have failed to recognise the other districts in from a UN platform? rights to self-organise at a local or regional level.” Chhattisgarh. The idea is to All options are on the table But however we qualify these successes, it’s hard ‘clear areas of Maoists, assert but it would be a surprise if the to deny an important lesson they teach us about state control, and begin answer to either question were democracy. Democracy has paid off in community development work’. ‘yes’. For security establishments, initiatives only because they’ve been imaginatively The government’s plan the prospect of ‘controlled designed and the incentives worked out in ways that factor in human frailties and psychology. is opposed by instability’ in familiar settings And the lesson of the Nepal experience is that anthropologists, activists usually outweighs the risks of grassroots democracy isn’t just theory, it works and even some security the unknown. Nepal’s political beautifully in practice. specialists. They point out future is locked in precisely that that a military offensive will dilemma.

LLL ETTERS

THE GREAT HIMALAYAN TRAIL Kathmandu, and on this global warming’s JAZZMANDU To my knowledge, this is not a first (‘The website: http:// effects, like Great review of Jazzmandu! (‘Let them Great Himalayan Trail’, #472). A French digitalhimalaya.com/ accelerated glacial hear jazz’, #472). But I’m also glad company sponsored a similar trip back in collections/journals/ melt and its effects on you’ve brought attention to the jazz 1986/87. ancientnepal/) water supplies. Every scene in Kathmandu, outside Bousteaud is also wrong to claim that As for “creating country needs to cut Jazzmandu. Many don’t realise that tourists were first able to visit after 2002, value in regions that its emissions, there’s tons for jazz-fans to be excited when Nepal “resolved all its border previously had little to including India and about in the city. Enough, at least, to disputes with China”. To the best of my offer,” what does China. It may not be keep them occupied until Jazzmandu knowledge, there was no border dispute, Boustead think tourists ‘fair’ historically, but rolls around again next year. almost all of the Nepal Himalaya were will bring? I’m not sure arguing over fairness Sudip Lama, email accessible from the early 1990s on. that tourism can help at a time when Next, I’ve always been uncomfortable such areas much, since countries like Tuvalu SUJATA with the idea of ‘discovering’ areas where tourism also has an are at risk of Sujata, Sujata, Sujata, Sujata! She hogs people have lived for centuries. These adverse impact, extinction, and newspapers, she hogs magazines, and high valleys are often Buddhist holy especially in fragile areas. countries around the world, including India now she’s DPM. What. The. Hell. But places and have histories of their own, Marceau, email and China, are at risk of growing food get used to this folks, we won’t have with indigenous literature to show for it. shortages, is futile. Instead of rejecting all serious leaders for a while. CK Lal’s Thanks notably to the Nepal German COPENHAGEN CLIMATE COUNTDOWN imposed cuts, developing countries like right (‘The daughter also rises’, #472), Manuscript Preservation Project, a An ‘emerging consensus’ on what needs to India and China should be pressing for leaders of substance are squeezed out considerable portion of it has been be done to address climate change is not more financial and technical assistance. of parties. translated. You can find them easily in going to help countries like Nepal deal with Margaret P, email Name withheld, email OP-ED 23 - 29 OCTOBER 2009 #473 3 Government matters The state has a role in keeping the commons for commoners obel Prizes in physics, chemistry and medicine are recognition of N specialised achievements. Peers seldom challenge awardees. In literature, zeitgeist affects the decision of the committee. In the wake of 9/11 and rising Islamophobia, V.S.Naipaul’s controversial Among the Believers was a clear winner. The fear of belligerent China and resurgent Russia is the flavour of the season in the West this year. So the literature prize has gone to Romanian- German novelist Herta Müller, who endured Ceausescu’s communist rule.

STATE OF THE STATE C K Lal

The Peace Prize is pure politics. From Henry Kissinger to Menachem Begin, all kinds of controversial personalities have received it in the past. This year, the KUNDA DIXIT committee decided to reward America’s first black president just for being a breath claims that locally managed traditional irrigation canals dating back centuries. management and sustainability of of fresh air compared to his predecessor. irrigation systems in Nepal have All such indigenous systems began projects, a monetary value has been put Almost as controversial has been this successfully allocated water between users to fall into disuse when King Mahendra upon the contributions of locals. Water year’s Nobel for economics. Unlike in for a long time. Whether that falls under started dispensing political favours in is priced with user fees. The government physics, chemistry and medicine (or even economics or the management discipline is the form of land grants. Doras and has cleverly abdicated its responsibilities literature and politics), it’s difficult to for professionals to decide. But the politics pokharis became the private property of of providing basic services, raising taxes, measure contributions economists make to of this position deserves some attention. influential local politicos. Dry painis and administering justice. Since donors the well-being of humanity. For years, free- Nepal had a functioning system of were encroached upon and turned into fund impact studies, it hardly ever gets market fundamentalists dominated the community engagement that allowed rice fields. Rajkulos were filled up to mentioned in policy papers that winners’ list. cooperation in building and maintaining make roads. Deep and shallow tubewells community-administered development Mavericks like Amartya Sen, Joseph local irrigation systems. In the central soon became the favourite modes of projects constitute privatisation of Stiglitz and Paul Krugman have been Tarai, for example, villagers built earthen irrigating fields. The government almost essential services through the back door. chosen to correct the longstanding market dams on perennial rivers at least twice a destroyed the entire community-led It was first the might of government bias. But apparently, the Nobel Committee year to irrigate paddy seedlings and wheat irrigation infrastructure within a decade. that was used to destroy the network of needed to send an even stronger message during May-June and Jan-Feb. The water When the ‘project approach’ of autonomous grassroots initiatives. Now after the sub-prime crisis that led to the was then channelled through an intricate delivering water into farmer’s fields the community is being set up to global recession. So for the first time in the web of dora (flow channels) to paini (field failed to have the desired impact, discredit the government. The market history of the economics prize it is a channels) and pokhari (reservoir). The consultants came up with the idea of will then reign supreme. Subsistence woman who has received it, for her same infrastructure was later used to drain user committees and consumer groups to farming will be easier to replace with research into resource management outside out floods during the monsoon. implement and maintain minor commercial farms. the market. In the Naya Muluk region of irrigation systems. Introduced in the late The Nobel hoopla over locally Professor Elinor Ostrom teaches Kanchanpur, Kailali, Bardia and Banke eighties under the aegis of multilateral managed economic governance political science at Indiana University and districts, a similar system was replicated donor agencies, such an approach has notwithstanding, the overarching role of was recognised for her “analysis of with series of state-managed Rajkulo and transformed the community cooperation central and provincial government is economic governance, especially the locally maintained field channels. The of the past into market relationships. necessary to keep the commons for commons”. Based on her fieldwork, Ostrom Kathmandu Valley already had functioning In the name of community commoners. z 4 NATION 23 - 29 OCTOBER 2009 #473 Not strictly business

SHARDA JUNG THAPA exhorting their ranks to help framework that revises regulations incalculable benefits without any Nepal as a patriotic duty is just that dictated the treatment of further major concessions. It is good marketing. Ultimately, Nepali migrants to other lands, not for nothing that India, China rem Jung Thapa’s opinion business is business and when some of which dated back to the and dozens more countries have piece about the NRN any NRN invests in Nepal it middle of the nineteenth century. chosen this route. The time in P movement (#471) was a should be a business decision. Prem Jung Thapa may not be Nepal is right since a new rehash of some popular True, some may choose to accept a aware that even without these in constitution is in the making and misconceptions about the NRN sub-optimal return because it’s place the NRNA has functioned this is something that could be movement, focusing only on the Nepal and indeed some already on faith as an unregistered accommodated. NRNs from the investment aspects with a few have. organisation in Nepal. In this world over need not lecture on gratuitous generalisations thrown The putdown about the paltry same period, informal estimates the globality of capital markets or in for effect. capabilities of NRNs compared to indicate that some $300 million the fungible nature of funds. If On balance, some of his Marwari business houses was in investments were made in ethnicity and association with criticisms are valid but he tends plain wrong and also inapt, Nepal by various NRNs. the motherland were not to blame NRN leaders for failing because there is neither a desire to A lot of the features of the investment criteria why would to meet expectations that aren’t have our potentials compared nor dual citizenship sought are the NRI and Overseas Chinese their own. a demand to have NRN already enshrined within these have pumped in tens of billions Regarding the ‘great NRN investments considered revised regulations. There is no into their respective motherlands, myths’ he sets out to debunk, the preferentially. demand for voting rights or to be commencing well before these first statement, that the diaspora Furthermore, he ignores the included in the political process countries took off economically? includes some of the best and fact that the NRN movement is and hold office. Neither are there In conclusion, there already is brightest of Nepal, is certainly not also about keeping traditions any requests to be treated a special class of foreigners with a myth. Prem Jung Thapa is a alive so they aren’t lost on our preferentially as investors and Nepali ethnicity scattered across perfect example. The second children. create an unequal playing field. the world. I think we deserve to myth, that NRNs are Finally, I find it hard to Some of the perceived be recognised as such. It is for indispensable to Nepal, is a stomach yet another reference to a shortcomings of the current Nepal to decide whether to do so. Don’t blame misinterpretation of the NRN line link between dual citizenship regulations in the areas of It is our ‘patriotic’ duty to that our skills and investment and investment with the entry/exit and property rights counsel Nepal to act in her best NRNs for not could be a vital part of developing implication that investments are would be corrected and I see no interests. In my mind this only Nepal. being held hostage. It is as if the shame or reprehensibility in becomes patriotic if I am a dual meeting He may have missed the point NRN movement is stealing the asking for them on the basis of citizen. z in trying to discern two different crown jewels right under the maintaining existing ethnic ties. expectations definitions of and courses of unwatchful eyes of the Nepali Dual citizenship has a certain The author is a founding member, that aren’t action for NRNs. The objective of politicians and people. Over the ring about it and the implication past country representative-USA, the movement is to have one last six years we have laboured of tying migrants to the Past VP North America and their own seamless NRN ‘new’ constituency; mightily to put in place a motherland. This may yield Advisor to NRNA-ICC

KIRAN PANDAY BUSINESS 23 - 29 OCTOBER 2009 #473 5

Win Win ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ The bumper prize winner of LG’s Festivalonomics ‘Ahai LG’ scheme, Mitralal Pokharel, was presented with an LG refrigerator, television, Have we understood the commercial washing machine, vacuum cleaner, microwave oven, DVD potential of our festivals? player, home theatre and a mobile set. riving on any of the Tihar on Saturdays, the only days wonderful to have cultural street

Absolutely free holidays gives you the shoppers have time to go out carnivals without political ○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○ Dfeeling that the entire city on a buying spree. But to overtones that showcase the Samsung Digital Still Camera, marketed by is asleep. Compared to the fun protect the interest of god- culture of Nepal and would be Him Electronics, is introducing a new line. and revelry outside people’s knows-who, we have decided on par with the carnivals of On purchase of this camera, you can win a homes in other south Asian cities to close markets on Saturday. If Brazil? If other cities famous for free leather pouch as well as 2 GB of memory. during festivals, Kathmandu we complain about high pilgrimages can leverage festivals looks like a ghost town. Eateries unemployment rates, then how to attract tourists, why can’t we? Branching out and shops are closed and for most can we have the luxury of The mass mha pujas could be ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ there’s not much to do. This Beed closing down for so many part of a package that showcases Kumari Bank opened its 19th branch in Urlabari, Morang on the occasion of Chhat. The bank aims to have 30 branches by the end days? the depth of local cuisine. How Flower sellers on the first about events at the viewing of this year. ECONOMIC SENSE day of Laxmi Puja charge up to point at Swayambhu or Lakhure Artha Beed Rs 800 but don’t realise that it or Hattiban to see the valley is better to sell one’s wares at aglow during Tihar celebrations? is yet to understand how we can reasonable prices. At the end of There are so many things to do! boost the economy if we always the day taking away unsold The way we celebrate Tihar want to keep everything shut. goods or selling at throwaway now, by closing shops and Hunting for a restaurant on prices is definitely not good eateries, shows that our mindset festival days that actually is business. Yet so many has not changed despite the willing to serve customers is businesses will foolishly try to immense political changes Nepal difficult even though going by the take advantage of similar has undergone. Like the people crowds around stalls outside City situations, be it by trying to who used to stand outside Centre, the demand is definitely sell water and noodles at three Narayanhiti Palace to watch the there. Young people, especially times the usual price during fireworks when they were girls, who earn and spend their chakka jams or by trying to banned for commoners, we use own money ensured the stalls did extort unreasonable prices from fireworks knowing they have great business. It is a pity that a tourist only to dissuade them been illegally procured. We when there are so many customers from buying anything. spend hours gambling knowing looking for good places to eat, The world over, people very well that gambling is not eateries are closed. In Nepal, make lots of money from legal here, with Nepali citizens people complain about business tourists during festivals. Why prohibited from going to being bad, but if we keep on would tourists come to see how casinos. This is so confusing! closing down on days that people Tihar is celebrated when they No wonder Goddess Laxmi is yet want to splurge, then we have have to clamour to find a place to really make an impact in only ourselves to blame. This to have a decent meal without Nepal. extends to our closing of markets being fleeced? Wouldn’t it be www.arthabeed.com Manifesto, amended?

PREM JUNG THAPA interests of its members in Nepal that more and more productive and overseas, whether in resources are invested in the commerce or culture. The cultural motherland. But make these t’s heartening to see that my connection was not noted in my provisions apply to all foreigners article ‘NRN manifesto’ column, but I acknowledge this is who invest in Nepal. The NRN I caught the eye, and even the a valued dimension. movement may not be asking for ire, of fellow NRNs gathered for Yet from the very beginning special treatment of NRN the 4th Global Conference. That the NRN movement has been investors relative to other resident the rebuttal is from a founding invoking a special mantra about investors, but by its very name it and tirelessly active member of helping Nepal and resident is championing special rights for the movement is a particular joy. Nepalis as much as helping its foreign investors with Nepali My purpose was to ask members. And the investment ethnicity compared to non-Nepali questions to stimulate clearer route is identified as one of the foreigners. Why? Our funds will discussions about what the NRN key channels for this patriotic not be super-productive or get the movement stands for, and how to duty. So to me, and more job done better than alternative sources of investment funds. In fact, potential large NRN investors If the NRN movement does who are also in leadership roles in the NRN movement may have not equate to NRN huge conflicts of interest between investment, it should say so their private and organisational dealings. address the anomalies that occur importantly to the millions of If my call for non- when we have multiple resident Nepalis, the sine qua non discriminatory treatment of all objectives. It was not seeking to of the NRN movement is NRN foreign investors in Nepal leaves blame anyone or put down the investment in Nepal. This is what patriotic NRNs seemingly NRN movement. I strongly object to. If this image unfulfilled, perhaps the Ministry Sharda Jung Thapa’s piece branding of the NRN movement is of Finance should have a ‘patriot provides some of these answers, not what the NRN leadership tax’ whereby dual citizenship is but I wish it had elaborated on desires, then the NRN manifesto granted to those willing to pay a the anomalies. If I am unaware of needs to be amended, without small, say 1%, tax on their global the real objectives and workings pride of place for the $100 earnings. In return, every two of the NRN, then perhaps there million global NRN Fund. years they can hobnob in are many more like me who I am all for the NRN Kathmandu with the political should be enlightened. movement using its clout to and business leadership of Nepal, I already expressed my improve the investment climate unveil statues, and for the approval for a NRN movement in Nepal, and for championing especially patriotic, have streets that advances the private changes to citizenship rules so named after them. 6 FROM THE NEPALI PRESS 23 - 29 OCTOBER 2009 #473

performers, mostly food, was accepted in the same spirit. Deusi ransom There were no ulterior motives, no threats. This may still be the case in Jagadish Ghimire in Kantipur, not the grace of the pen but the some parts of Kathmandu, but 18 October force of the sword. The going rate the custom is dwindling fast. to pay off these troupes is not less More than ever, deusi/bhailo is than a thousand rupees, and characterised from the first day ‘Naya Nepal’ has witnessed certainly more is expected. of Tihar by visits from gangs of the dawn of many unseemly Offices and public figures have to unknown louts high on drink who customs. One of these is endure a whole rash of these enter practically by force and ransom in the name of deusi/ notes. Those who haven’t made keep the neighbourhood awake bhailo. their fortunes by illegal means all night with their carousing. As Tihar approaches, face quite significant extra festive Having coopted cultural offices and individual citizens expenses. The earnings of these traditions as a business, they receive notes or phone calls individuals are held to ransom by demand to be paid and leave from political and non-political these notices. Their time off is behind bottles, cigarette butts organisations, both known and held to ransom as they wait for and the stench of urine. unknown, informing them of said troupes to turn up. Their Does individual freedom and their intention to visit their privacy is held to ransom, their privacy count for nothing in Naya premises for deusi/bhailo. happiness is held to ransom. Nepal? Are the cultural traditions Essentially, what all these I remember how we used to of Tihar meant for our happiness ransom notes are saying is, enjoy deusi/bhailo when I was a or suffering? “You may or may not know child. People would visit their Can the 601 CA members MIN RATNA BAJRACHARYA who we are, but we have relatives, their neighbours and swear that they are not involved decided to come and visit you their friends. Both hosts and in this ransom-culture? If they to perform deusi/bhailo. Wait guests would look forward to the are not, then working to for us and don’t forget to keep occasion, in which they criminalise this kind of culture Assets auctioned some cash handy. participated as a community will go some way towards Otherwise…” bound by love. Whatever was relieving the problems they have Rishiram Paudyal in Kantipur, 21 October The notes in question bear offered to the deusi/bhailo caused the Nepali people.

The lands of two families killed during the conflict are to be put up for auction in 35 days. The Agricultural Development Bank in Melamchi Unjust reward has decided to go ahead with the sale after the orphaned children were unable to pay the loans. The Maoists had murdered two alleged informers — former VDC Kantipur, 21 October chairman Dil Bahadur Dhanuwar and RPP cadre Chitra Bahadur Thapa – who had refused to give donations. While Dhanuwar had a total debt of Rs 100,000 and Thapa Rs 184,000 with the bank, the total sums they Twelve youths performing deusi/bhailo were owed amounted to Rs 183,000 and Rs 500,000 respectively. beaten up the police in Lalbandi, Sarlahi. After As compensation for his murder the government had provided Ganga Kathwada, a local of Lalbandi, mistreated Thapa’s family with Rs 150,000, which was spent on rent for seven the women in the group, she informed the Lalbandi police station. The police arrived people in Kathmandu. The family has been struggling to make ends immediately and lathi-charged the group. meet, let alone pay debts. Amongst those injured by the police were female Dhanuwar’s family is in a worse condition as they were not given footballers Usha Bhandari and Kavita Oli. any compensation at all. Says Laxman, the younger son of Dil Bahadur, Enraged villagers of Lalbandi not only blockaded “The Maoists threatened us with violence if we took the money.” The the police station but also set fire to police vans. older son has been unable to work since he was electrocuted in an accident, leaving the family hopeless. Sujata’s largesse

Lekhnath Pandey in Nagarik, 21 October

Deputy PM Sujata Koirala spent one million rupees on gifts for colleagues and other officials on her trips to Egypt, Portugal and India as foreign minister. To make this less apparent, all expenses were tallied under the miscellaneous section of her budget for the trip. Sources state that meeting these officials was not even planned beforehand. All details about the items purchased along with the names of the recipients have been disclosed in a bill that adds up to a startling Rs 926,000. The ‘gifts’ included expensive silver utensils with her name engraved on them. Others at the ministry found this extravagance in Koirala unusual because no former foreign ministers have gone to such excesses in buying Bhai tika! items for their tours abroad. Past foreign Madhav Kumar Nepal: “Yamaraj will be impressed by our rule, sister” ministers would simply present a souvenir that reflected something about Nepali culture: a Rabin Sayami in Nagarik, 21 October handicraft, pashmina or a khukuri. MIN RATNA BAJRACHARYA CONSTITUTION 2010 23 - 29 OCTOBER 2009 #473 7 “Big egos”

Country first Mrigendra Kumar Singh Yadav, Minister for Agriculture and Cooperatives, MJF, Saptari 6

How many CA sessions did you attend after becoming minister? I haven’t attended any since the CA was postponed, but otherwise I have attended them regularly when I’m in town.

Do you think the constitution will be written on time? We must, and we will, if the political parties reach an agreement, and leaders deflate their big egos.

So you’re saying it won’t be written on time without a consensus? It would be better if there were consensus on deciding issues in the CA. If no agreement is reached, there is the provision of voting.

Has the disruption of parliament sessions affected the writing of the constitution? The CA sessions haven’t ever been disrupted. They were postponed due to a lack of business. Himal Khabarpatrika spoke to people in On what basis should provinces be created? If we consider physical and cultural factors, instead of ethnicity and language alone, we can preserve the cultures of the Himal, Birganj about key constitutional issues. Pahad and Tarai. Translated excerpts below:

Himal Khabarpatrika: Do so we should be a Hindu language in the new constitution. you think the country will republic. “Flag’s no get a new constitution in Babulal Prasad Kumal (NC): seven months? Yogendra Shah (UCPN- There should be one national Om Prakash Rungta Maoist): If Hinduism is a strong language that different provinces big deal” (social worker): The political religion, it doesn’t need special can use to communicate with one leaders are fighting all the time, state protection. The state should another. Each province should so when will they find the time? protect all religions equally and have its own language. the new constitution must ensure Sitadevi Baudel, Maoist CA member, Nawalparasi 3 Om Prakash Sikariya this. There is no alternative to Lalbabu Raut (MJF): If we say (President, Birganj secularism in Nepal. Nepal is a multilingual country, What do you do now that the Industries and Commerce it should adopt a multi-lingual CA is suspended? Association): The Constituent Man Deb Hajara (Dalit policy. Maithali, Bhojpuri, We attend meetings for the Assembly is also a parliament, activist): Dalits are being Abadhi are the major languages drafting and parliamentary which has slowed down the discriminated against by spoken in the Madhes. Hindi is committees and sessions. constitution writing process. Hinduism. They are not allowed the language of communication in There has to be a separate to enter temples even though they the region. Therefore, Nepali and Which CA committee are you parliament and CA. are themselves Hindu. Hinduism Hindi should be the national in? causes ethnic and religious languages of the country. Hindi I am in the Committee on Pramod Kushbaha discrimination, so Nepal should should be the language of the Fundamental Rights and Directive Principles. We’re (President, Nepal University be a secular state. Madhes Pradesh. still working on our draft report Teachers Association, and concept paper. We are Thakur Ram Multiple Arabind Shah (CPN-UML): Laxmi Bhatta (social debating progressive land Campus): CA members have The state does not have any worker): Nepal is my country, I reform and prohibitions on forgotten why they’re in the religion and Nepalis need not take am Nepali and Nepali is my regressive forces from opening assembly and people need to it upon themselves to protect language. How can Hindi be my parties. remind them. Hinduism. Nepal should be a language? Nepali should be the secular state. national language. Is it possible to ban political Rajendra Prasad Koirala parties in a multiparty system? (intellectual): There’s just no Sabita Shah (women’s rights What do you think of the Everyone, except regressive alternative. Plus, if we get activist): The new constitution Maoists’ proposal to change forces, should be free to open political parties. federalism wrong, we’ll go the should confirm the country’s the national flag? way the way of Bangladesh and current secular status. If Nepal Rajeshwor Prasad Koirala: Your party has been disrupting parliament. Doesn’t that affect the Pakistan, which look like they becomes a Hindu country once The suryavansi and chandravansi constitution writing process? will split apart. again, there will be another symbols on our flag represent the This is the government’s fault, not ours, and it hasn’t slowed the revolution. monarchy. They ought to be constitution writing process. What do you think about the changed to represent Dalits, anti-secular voices that have What kind of provisions women, Janajati and Madhesi Why is the constitution writing process not gaining momentum? been raised recently? should the new constitution communities instead. Because of political instability, lust for power, the security situation and Nurul Huda (engineer): have regarding language? political disagreements. Once political consensus is reached, the Federalism is impossible without Bishwambar Sharma Rajeshwor Tiwari (lawyer): constitution will be written on time. secularism in Nepal. (associate professor): The new We didn’t think there was an The Maoists gave out a separate province for Koche but not for Dalits. constitution should ensure the alternative to monarchy, yet we Why? Binay Yadav (Nepal Janata right of a person to use the changed that. Why shouldn’t we I’m a Dalit myself, and we realised that Dalits aren’t a majority in any Party): Hinduism is the greatest language he/she knows. change the flag too? region, which is why they won’t have a province to themselves. But we democracy, and it’s taugh us what Sometimes, we ignore reality for have suggested proportional representation, which will ensure Dalit democracy means. It should the sake of politics. The country Babulal Prasad Kumal: The representation in the legislature. remain the state religion. comes first. Language is a national flag should not be Hinduism and democracy medium to communicate. We changed as it represents the What do you think of changing the national flag? complement each other in Nepal should not have conditions on national identity. It’s being discussed but isn’t a big deal. I’m not that rigid about it. 8 NATION

KANAK MANI DIXIT It can be disheartening to see buffalos romping about in what was supposed to be a wild trek. But this any who have studied reminds the trekker that the Himalaya the Machapuchre is an inhabited mountain chain. And massif will have as you congratulate yourself on great wanted to get up physical achievement, nonchalant Mclose. Why should it not be possible to herders whistle their way upwards, head straight up from the with nothing but a quilt in their Valley? What lies beyond the tree line? baskets to ward off the freezing night. We headed up the ridge on a brief We were doubly intrigued to tented adventure over Dasain to encounter a Bahun sheep herder at find out. this altitude. He had quit college in In many parts of Nepal, trekking Pokhara and taken up this profitable trails are being replaced by roads. The but arduous profession once his Annapurna circuit now has a highway father died. In his words echoed the up the Kali Gandaki and another is fears and desires of the Nepali people snaking up the Marsyangdi. The at large. He had been to the Gulf once, Trekking Agencies Association of Nepal but had barely scraped by. Though he and the Annapurna Conservation Area Wherever you are, you are on a direct line- to the south, the distinctive twin summits was thinking of taking up a job in Trust have teamed up, with Swiss of-sight heading from Pokhara to of Bandipur are clearly visible, as is Libya, he was torn by the idea of support, to keep tourists engaged in the Machapuchre. The mountain does Devchuli standing guard over Nawalparasi. leaving “these mountains”. region by introducing the ‘Machapuchre not oblige you by changing shape Along the way, we passed numerous What was a Bahun herder doing Model Trek’. and exposing its fish-tail, it only comes households boarded up, and farmed up here in what is supposed to be a Decades ago, this area was termed closer while remaining aloof and terraces going back to jungle – a pointer to Gurung/Tamu region? Was the ‘the other (Annapurna) sanctuary’ by imperious. the transforming economy and downward movement of affluent Col. Jimmy Roberts, rightly known as Looking downhill, a good part of Nepal demography. Gurungs being mirrored by Bahuns the ‘father of trekking’. The trail was is laid out. The sculpted natural terraces so Early autumn had both jangal and moving up the mountain? already active when it lapsed during distinctive of Pokhara Valley march all the kharka full of flowers, and the leeches In four nights, we had the conflict, but is now open again. way up the Seti River, past Kharpani were well-behaved. Half-feral buffalos experienced the thrill of breathing the The Machapuchre trail holds great village and provide proof of the ancient looked at us with wild-eyed panic High Himalayan air, taking in promise, for the proximity to the catastrophic landslide flood that created before bounding off. This is one of the best mountainous wonders and the birds Himalayan giants it provides, plus the the flats of Pokhara Valley. places in the world for bird watchers, and and flowers. But we were never far flora, fauna and the views across Pokhara is forever visible, but lower by the flank known as Pipar was identified by from human concerns, and seeing the midhills of Nepal. But to take direct the day. Dorniers and Twin Otters Col. Roberts and Pokhara’s redoubtable Nepal spread out below we were aim at a Himalayan peak, one has are like buzzing gnats as they bank over Jhalak Thapa as a pheasant sanctuary with forced to ruminate-yes, just like the to be prepared for a steep and and head for Jomsom. Far six resident species. buffalos. z continuous ascent. Starting on the Mardi riverside at 1120m, passing the only village of Ribhan, you make your first camp close to the hilltop A four-day trek can take you viewpoint of Odane (2513m). The second camp is on the kharka (alp) right below Machapuchre above the tree line at Khumai (3245m). From there, a day trip takes you up to Korchon (3682m). Northwards lie the ramparts of Annapurna Himal, familiar and up close. To the left, Annapurna South blocks the summit ridge, to the right lie Annapurna II (top), III and Lamjung The other Himal, and Gorkha Himal is further on beyond the Marsyangdi. But centre- stage is monopolised by Machapuchre (6997m), with the trekking peak of Mardi Himal (4120m) looking rather diminutive to the left. sanctuary

PICS: KANAK MANI DIXIT 23 - 29 OCTOBER 2009 #473 9

Charity, Helping hands bring healthy smiles away from home to western Nepal

BILLI BIERLING Ragan, WFP country director in Nepal. He was also part of Brice’s Manaslu expedition. omewhere in the mid- “So far, we’ve provided food hills of western Nepal, to over 1,000 people and are in the shadow of implementing a ‘Food-For-Work’ Manaslu, is a small, program whereby the locals Simpoverished village at an receive food in exchange for work altitude of 3,780 metres. Thanks that goes towards community- to a joint initiative by Himalayan based projects. In 2010 WFP will Experience, the World Food cover nearly 15,000 people in Programme (WFP), SmileHigh seven districts of the upper and Himalayan Health and Gorkha area,” said Ragan. Environmental Services, Key to the success of this Samagaon has just received much joint initiative has been the needed aid in the form of health willingness of the locals to and dental services, food, and participate. Even before WFP human expertise. arrived, the locals had started Samagaon is the gateway for improving the trail to Manaslu many expeditions to Manaslu base camp, with support (top), which at 8,156 metres is financed by Brice. the eighth highest peak in the Brice recalled: “At first the world. Mountaineering locals were a bit suspicious as expeditions have passed through DAMES GIAMBRONE Manaslu is a sacred mountain for this village since Manaslu was them. But when we told them first climbed in 1956, with 34 not built a school in Khumjung, I “None of the children had health services to mountain about our plans, they showed expeditions in 2008 alone. But would not have been able to ever seen a dentist, but their teeth communities. great enthusiasm.” there has been very little become a dentist,” he recalled. were actually quite good. It is With part of the Rs 100,000 development. The closest health different in the Khumbu, as Work for Food he donated to the village last facilities are either a six-day trek Healthy smiles many kids have got into the habit Apart from a lack of health and year, Brice organised 25 villagers or an expensive helicopter During a week-long mission in of eating sugary western food,” Dr education facilities there is also to each carry about 30kg of flight away. Samagaon, five dentists treated Mingma observed. He is the co- a significant food shortage in rubbish down from base camp. Russell Brice is a guide from around 1,000 patients, extracted founder of SmileHigh, a dental the area. “Within half an hour, 750kg New Zealand who has climbed in 300 teeth, and distributed about aid organisation he set up with “There is simply not enough of rubbish was carried off the Nepal for 35 years. This year his 1,000 toothbrushes and 800 friend and fellow dentist Julian space to grow enough food for the mountain. It was amazing to see company Himalayan Experience toothpaste tubes. Haszard in 2004 to bring dental entire population,” said Richard how quickly this was done,” organised an expedition to Brice said. Manaslu. Next year the team is “When I arrived in Samagaon planning to spend another week I was shocked to see how in the area to provide the backward this village was. I villagers with more food, expected poverty but I was not training, and dental and medical prepared for what I saw. People care. Ken Noguchi, a Japanese are in desperate need of health mountaineer, has organised and education,” he said. several clean-up operations on According to the WFP, mountains in the Himalaya. He is 48 per cent of the children in the now building a boarding school area are underweight and nearly for about 70 children in 70 per cent of the children under Samagaon. five are stunted. The case of Samagaon shows “There is only one school, how climbers and trekkers which is more like a shack, and committed to not just mountains the area has no health facility or but the communities that live dental clinic,” said Dr Mingma around them can make a Nuru Sherpa, a dentist from difference. With improved Khumjung in the Khumbu region. infrastructure and a healthier, “The people live how we used happier community, Samagaon to live 30 years ago. Up until I SNACKS ON YAKS: will be better equipped to was six years old I did not own WFP food is unloaded welcome more tourists to shoes, and if Sir Edmund had Manaslu. z DAMES GIAMBRONE 10 NATION 23 - 29 OCTOBER 2009 #473 Well runs dry Mustang’s Culture is collective achievement, not collective cretinism murals he times they’ve been a-changing for a while now, and some yearn for the good old bad old days when things International efforts have revived T were far from ideal, but ‘worked’, democracy or no. The more practical among us recognise the ultimate futility of Mustang’s cultural heritage nostalgia. That ideal of a unity-in-diversity nation under a benevolent demi-god, that semi-pristine Kathmandu Valley of Toyota taxis, mom ‘n pop stores and easy-going grace, that American Himalayan simple amorphous countryside, steadily developing, never really Foundation, a US-based non- existed except in the minds of the myth-makers. profit that helps preserve But one can see where Himalayan cultures, and these sentiments spring describes what he saw when he KALAM from in our fraught modern first encountered the murals in Rabi Thapa times. Some of the old was 2001. “Water infiltrations had better dispensed with, but washed away part of the pictorial there are new things to worry about all the time. Only last week I rejoiced in the wealth of cycle, and rising dampness had global culture some of us are enjoying here in Kathmandu. Film eroded and destroyed the lower festivals, book launches, concerts and art expos engaged local sections of the murals. In some and international artists and audiences. Culture seemed to be of the worst cases, the wall progressing even as our politics was stymied by the pygmies in paintings were detached a couple charge. And if culture were flourishing in the capital, perhaps it of inches away from the wall, could represent a larger force for good throughout the nation? ready to fall off.” It’s easy to get carried away. While the cup we hold up to The Foundation trained over toast the world indeed runneth over, our own cultural reservoirs UNMASKING BEAUTY: Mustang's gods are young again 100 indigenous local carpenters are running dry. At the very least, they are being poisoned by and artisans to restore the the arsenic of Naya Nepal. Crassness is filtering into every monasteries, and they hope they aspect of our Nepali cultural experience, nowhere more so than in our cities. will manage their upkeep in the Whither the community of deusi and bhailo? It used to be decades to home. Luigi’s workers something we all looked forward to, hosts and guests. My have been joined by other neighbours in Dhapasi have never stopped to consider the effect conservation groups, including of their drunken railing or wailing dogs, but the festive seasons NOVA, and local non-profits trigger not eager anticipation now, but dread. This Tihar, we were run by members of Mustang’s brave enough to turn away prospective entertainers after 9 (but former royalty. not to refuse them unearned cash prizes), but the lawyer who’d Work has focused on the just moved in next door seemed less bothered by neighbourly bigger gompas like Thubchen, propriety. After a dazzling, wholly illegal display of fireworks on Jampa, Ghar and Tsarang and has Laxmi Puja he and his family appeared to have settled down to a involved advanced restoration well-earned night’s rest. It was not to be, not for them, not for us. At a quarter to 11 their doorbell (an ear-splitting rendition of a techniques (see box). So far, the well-known bhajan, a marvel of public piety) began to sound. The work has gone brilliantly, but door opened at 11 to let in a stream of shrieking youngsters who conservationists insist the then proceeded to regale the neighbourhood. To their credit, results are about much more they’d been practicing for weeks, live and electrified. But their than brick and mortar. amalgam of Hindi and Nepali pop remixes was as hopeless as it hen Mustang was first century heyday. The murals they “More important than that, had been to begin with. At least the comrades didn’t come opened to outsiders in housed, Tibetan-style the Loba community knocking with their hypocritical Loktantrik deusi. W 2001, visitors in the depictions of Buddhist gods acknowledged the importance of capital Lo Manthang encountered and mythological creatures, had their own cultural heritage, extraordinary monasteries and mainly ritual functions but were something they are really proud religious murals that alas, had in such bad shape that they were of now,” says Fieni. been damaged by centuries of no longer worshipped by the exposure and neglect. Luckily, locals. conservation groups like the The murals had collected American Himalayan Foundation layers of grime and soot and had More pictures at and NOVA immediately sprung lost their original vibrancy. The www.nepalitimes.com.np into action, and 18 years later, monasteries had been rocked by astounding progress is evident. earthquakes and let in water that Visit www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/ The monasteries were built by caused massive damage. tibet and www.pbs.org/mustang Mustang’s indigenous Loba Luigi Fieni leads the for more on the restoration work people during the kingdom’s 15th restoration work by the in Mustang

Where is the charm of festive gambling when it simply represents for most of Kathmandu’s idle elite an intensification of what they do the whole year long with endless rounds of Marriage? Dasain is just one big sale. Holi has long since lost its charm to marauding bands of spray-painted goons. Wedding Remaking masterpieces parties are all very well but even the humble Bratabandha has now become an exercise in pompous excess. Perhaps the comrades have a point. If only they could desist from using the LEXI KROCK the paintings to ensure that only the painting’s very culture they decry to feed their greed. Culture is meant to represent the collective intellectual surface dirt – and not its pigments, made of achievement of a people. With such cultural diversity as the semiprecious stone – came off. Nepali peoples possess, one would think our collective culture When restoration work began in Lo Manthang’s Once the paintings were clean, the team began would possess such beauty and wisdom as few nations Thubchen monastery in 2001, the once-vivid to secure loose pieces of the murals using plaster could match. Then why is it that a day in the life of the colours of its wall paintings appeared dull and made from mud and a powerful adhesive. Kathmandu Valley, especially one marked out for celebration, is grimy, trapped behind 500 years of smoke, soot, The final step in restoration involved increasingly characterised by collective cretinism? What is and grease from butter lamps, and large pieces of touching up areas of the paintings where colour happening to Nepalis? these medieval masterpieces hung precariously was missing due to extreme damage. To preserve Doubtless there is some confusion as to what Nepali culture off the walls. the integrity of the original paintings, Lujan’s means anymore – who it is for, and what it is for in the age of But the restoration team worked wonders, team used washable watercolour paints in Naya Nepal. Our very diversity has engendered such a situation. returning Thubchen’s surviving wall paintings to crosshatched strokes. This is understandable. But if youthful confusion hardens into criminalised cynicism, then cultural loss won’t just be limited to remarkably close approximations of their original The ongoing restoration of the paintings in occasional exasperation with ritualised socialisation. It will be magnificence. Thubchen, along with the structural renovations permanent, with living cultures coopted by ossified ideology as In order to repair the paintings, head to the monastery’s roof and beams, should help hollow as the idea of a Maoist ‘people’s culture’, and our well will conservator Rodolfo Lujan and his team began a ensure that these treasures will remain intact for truly have run dry. painstaking process. First, they carefully cleaned another 500 years. NATION 23 - 29 OCTOBER 2009 #473 11

COUNTRY ROADS: East, not West

PICS: DEWAN RAI Road to nowhere

he far western districts of UML government. The links the area to Dhankuta. But community participation and the porters. the trans-Karnali get all government changed after nine for those travelling from involvement of the DDC and This is all good news for T the attention for being months. The kangresis wanted Kathmandu it is a 200km detour VDCs along the way. It is the only young men who haven’t got the under-developed, but the far another road alignment that to come this way. motorable road in Khotang. But down payment for a job in the eastern mountains of Khotang, catered to their vote bank from The Hilepani-Halesi to Diktel the idea of ‘motorable’ has to be Gulf or Malaysia, or the Bhojpur, Udaypur and Sindhuli Okhaldunga, and the highway road has been constructed with taken with a pinch of salt: there is connections to make it into the often fall into the cracks. went into limbo. Even this no bridge over the Dudh Kosi, Gurkha battalions. There are stretch of road is only passable and a whole section between plenty of portering jobs, and a after the rains, and it takes three Hilepani and Halesi was washed porter like Dil Kumar Rai, who UPS AND DOWNS days to walk from Saune to Welcome to away by a landslide and was was carrying rice up from Saune Dewan Rai Diktel. the far east, never rebuilt. So the Diktel-Halesi to Diktel, said he saved up to Another dirt road connecting section does not connect to any Rs 8,000 a month. Bhojpur to Khotang was if you can other road. The jeeps that ply here The UML is in power once Consider this: the interiors of completed last year under the were airlifted by helicopter and more, and it has declared that these districts are still roadless. Rural Access Program (RAP), and get there the diesel has to be brought in by 2010 will be a ‘Year of Road Only 18 kilometres of earthen Construction’. We’ll have to see roads have been built in the last how much budget is allocated for 15 years. The health statistics are Khotang and whether it will ever almost as bad as in Jumla. translate into upgrading the Khotang is the 46th poorest of existing tracks. Some money has Nepal’s 75 districts. been set aside for the Leguwa- After a stomach-churning Khotang road but locals say they 14-hour bus ride to Gaighat you will believe it when they see it. need to hike two days up the The level of cynicism here is mountains to reach my home so high that the government has district of Khotang. The bus was an uphill task regaining the trust filled to capacity because of the of the people. For the moment the holiday season, and a couple only way to get to Khotang is by dozen more passengers were plane and there is such high riding on the roof. The driver demand for tickets to Lamidanda seemed to have a death wish and and Bhojpur that you have to be a talked non-stop while he VIP, even if you can afford the negotiated the blind curves. It’s a fare. Two more STOL airstrips are miracle we reached Saune in one under construction in piece. Khanidanda and Thamkharka, but The construction of the it is doubtful if any private Sagarmatha Highway connecting airline will fly there, and the state Gaighat, Khotang, Solukhumbu airline just doesn’t have enough and Okhaldhunga began in 1984 planes. The far east is as far away under the aegis of a short-lived as it ever was. 12 INTERNATIONAL 23 - 29 OCTOBER 2009 #473 Re-learning democracy How capitalism is greed, and work needs democracy

he Nation’s Naomi Klein It encourages it, it rewards property and things us the way we laugh at people 150 spoke to filmmaker it. like that. years ago who put leeches on T Michael Moore about his NK: The thing that I Thanks to the people’s bodies to cure them. latest documentary, Capitalism: A found most exciting in women’s movement of NK: It is one of those ideas Love Story. Excerpts: the film is that you make the ‘60s and ‘70s, this that keeps coming up, but hasn’t Naomi Klein: I saw you on a very convincing pitch idea was introduced to worked out as people wanted. It the Jay Leno Show, and I was for democratically run that relationship – that is actually what people wanted in struck that one of his first workplaces as the both people are equal the former Soviet Union instead questions to you was this alternative to this kind of and both people should of the Wild West sort of mafia objection – that it’s greed that’s loot-and-leave capitalism. have a say. And I think capitalism that they ended up evil, not capitalism. And this is So I’m just wondering, as we’re better off as a result with. something that I hear a lot – this you’re traveling around, of introducing You had your US premiere at idea that greed or corruption is are you seeing any democracy into an the AFL-CIO convention. How are somehow an aberration from the momentum out there for institution like marriage. you finding labour leadership in logic of capitalism. this idea? But we spend eight relation to this idea? Are they Michael Moore: Well, MM: People love this to ten to twelve hours of open to it, or are you hearing, people want to believe that it’s part of the film. I’ve been our daily lives at work, “Well, this isn’t really workable”? not the economic system that’s at kind of surprised because where we have no say. I MM: I sat there in the theatre the core of all this. You know, it’s I thought people aren’t think when the other night with about 1,500 just a few bad eggs. But the fact of maybe going to anthropologists dig us delegates of the AFL-CIO the matter is that, as I said to Jay understand this or it up 400 years from now – convention, and I was a little [Leno], capitalism is the seems too hippie-dippy – if we make it that far – nervous as we got near that part of legalisation of this greed. but it really has resonated they’re going to say, the film, and I was worried that it We have a number of things in in the audiences that I’ve “Look at these people was going to get a little quiet in our species that you would call seen it with. back then. They thought there. the dark side, and greed is one of But, of course, I’ve they were free. They Just the opposite. They them. If you don’t put certain pitched it as a patriotic thing to considerably because we’ve called themselves a democracy, cheered it. A couple people structures in place or restrictions do. So if you believe in decided democracy is a better way but they spent ten hours of every shouted out, “Right on!” on those parts of our being that democracy, democracy can’t be to do it. Two hundred years ago day in a totalitarian situation and “Absolutely!” I think that unions come from that dark place, then it being able to vote every two or you had to ask a woman’s father they allowed the richest 1 per at this point have been so beaten gets out of control. Capitalism four years. It has to be every part for permission to marry her, and cent to have more financial down, they’re open to some new does the opposite of that. It not of every day of your life. then once the marriage happened, wealth than the bottom 95 per thinking and some new ideas. only doesn’t really put any We’ve changed relationships the man was calling all the shots. cent combined.” And I was very encouraged to see structure or restriction on it. and institutions around quite And legally, women couldn’t own Truly they’re going to laugh at that. REVIEW 23 - 29 OCTOBER 2009 #47313

KIND OF BLUE: Soulmate fires up Shangri-La Art attack An art festival will explore the paradoxes of women’s lives

tarting on the 30th of October, Nepal will host ‘Separating myth from reality – status of women’, its first international art festival. The four-day art Nari Timi | Binod Pradhan S Widowed Women | Pramila Bajracharya extravaganza in Kathmandu will bring together over 100 artists from 24 countries to six venues, including Siddhartha Art Gallery and the Nepal Arts Council, and warrants a visit from all the denizens of this city. The uninitiated and curious need not fear, for there could not be a more fertile ground for an introduction to contemporary art. For artists and art lovers, this is a true festival of the creativity and culture through which we define our humanity.

Kites | Gyanu Gurung

Festival director Sangita Thapa expects the exhibition to firmly plant Nepal on the international art scene. She sees the festival as a means of introducing Nepal to the international art market while exposing Nepali artists and Mahila Shakti | Erina Tamrakar the Nepali people to the contemporary art that is being Widowed Women | Pradip Kumar Bajracharya produced around the world. The festival highlights the myriad challenges women face in Nepal and abroad through the medium of the visual arts. Modernity has brought about dramatic changes in the lives of women, nowhere more so than in Nepal. Women have to balance the pressures of modern life with their traditional roles. Although the 33% representation of women in the 2008 Constituent Assembly promises much, discrimination against women remains prevalent – cases of rape, murder, abduction and torture are still common. This paradox of women’s lives – the reality and the myths of how women live – will be explored through the medium of paintings, drawings, installations and videos. A lecture series will also run concurrently with the festival, addressing the themes of art, women and Nepal’s contemporary art scene. These lectures will encourage debate and the sharing of ideas and experiences among local and international artists, and constitute an important educational component to the festival. For Nepali art lovers, the festival is a unique opportunity to witness the breadth of Nepali art from the 1960s and 1970s onward. The works of 47 Nepali artists will be featured, from senior artists to recent graduates from Nepal’s newest arts program at Kathmandu University. Art buyers should also take note of the signs of maturity manifest in the Nepali art market, for instance in the contracting of four Nepali artists by the Gaekwad Foundation and their sell out exhibition in Mumbai. The festival is a good opportunity for those interested in investing in art to identify future prospects. For the rest, it will be a sight for sore eyes. Pranab Man Singh Lattice Window | Bhairaj Maharjan The Dream | Sanjeev Maharjan 14 CITY 23 - 29 OCTOBER 2009 #473

ABOUT TOWN Directed by debutante Prem Soni. Main Aur Mrs Khanna stars Salman Khan, Kareena EXHIBITIONS Kapoor and Sohail Khan. The movie revolves ‘Nepal Rendezvous - Nagarkot Workshop’, paintings by around the theme of extramarital affairs. Raina Bangladeshi and Nepali artists at Hotel de l’Annapurna, (Kareena Kapoor) and Samir (Salman Khan) Darbar Marg, till 31 Oct, 4218048 get married despite Samir’s parents’ disapproval. The couple lives a fairytale life, EVENTS but after a couple of years, complications arise. Deepika Padukone makes a special The Young Victoria, movie screening at Lazimpat Gallery Entertainment appearance. Café, 24 Oct, 5.30PM, 4428549 Patan Press Club, meets every Thursday at Dhokaima Call 4442220 for show timings at Jai Nepal

Café, 6PM, 5522113 Quest www.jainepal.com Himalayan Buddhist Meditation Centre, Tai Chi 10- 11.30AM Saturday, Yoga 8.30-9.30AM and Meditation 5- 6PM weekdays, Keshar Mahal Marg, Thamel, 4410402 sfd ;fgf ] 7nf" ] eGg ] x'Fb}g . kl;gfsf ] s'g} /ª / hft klg x'Fb}g . sfd g]kfn ;/sf/ MUSIC u/]/ vfg nhfpg' klg x'Fb}g . rf]/]/, 9fF6]/, 5n]/, n'6]/ vfg kf] ;"rgf tyf ;~rf/ dGqfno ‘Playing the Masters’, western classical concert featuring nhfpgk5' { . hf ] hxf F /x/] hg' sfd u5 { pm To;df} /dfpgk5' { uf/a} ;"rgf ljefu Mariano E. Abello and Mayo Shimonishi at Lincoln School, ugk5'{ { / ;dlkt{ eP/ ugk5'{ { . sfd g } zlQm xf,] elQm xf ] / dlQm' 24 Oct, 4PM, www.katjazz.com.np xf ] . sfdsf ] OHht u/f,}+ kl;gfsf ] ;Ddfg u/f }+ . Baja gaja, every Tuesday at Moksh, Pulchok, 7.30PM onwards, 5526212 Live band every Friday and rooftop bbq everyday at Kausi Kitchen, Darbar Marg, 4227288 Sunday Jazz brunch, enjoy a relaxing Sunday in The Weekly Internet Poll # 473 Q. Will the Nepali Congress split over Terrace at Hyatt Regency Kathmandu with barbeque and Sujata Koirala’s promotion? live jazz by Inner Groove from 12:00 to 3:30 pm, 4491234/ 4489362 Total votes: 1,862 Jazz evening at Delices de France Restaurant every Wednesday, 11AM-2PM, 4260326 Some like it hot every Friday BBQ and live music by Dinesh Rai and the Sound Minds, Rs 899 at Fusion, Dwarika’s Hotel, 7PM onwards, 4479488

Happy cocktail hour, ladies night on Wednesday with live Weekly Internet Poll # 474. To vote go to: www.nepalitimes.com unplugged music at Jatra Café & Bar, Thamel, 5-7PM Q. Were you harassed by deusi-bhailo Nepali Ghajals and songs at D’Lounge Beijing Duck bands this Tihar? Restaurant, every Thursday 6.30PM onwards, 4468589 Rudra Night live fusion music by Shyam Nepali every Friday, 7PM at Gokarna Forest Resort, 4451212

DINING Arabic Food Festival, experience the finest cuisine from the Arabic world from till Nov 7 at The Café, 6.30PM onwards, 4491234/4489362 Famous stews of the world, at The Rox Restaurant, on Sundays, Mondays and Tuesdays, all through October, 6PM onwards, 4491234/4489362 Chocolate, Coffee and Caramel, every evening at The Lounge, 4.30-6.30PM, 4491234/4489362 Wine and cheese, every Friday & Saturday at The Lounge, WEEKEND WEATHER by NGAMINDRA DAHAL 5-8PM, 4491234/4489362 A cafe’s café, Dhokaima Café, Patan Dhoka, 5522113 Expect cool and breezy weather throughout the week. You’ll see Jazzabell Café, wisps of clouds in the sky, which will otherwise remain clear and relaunched at Jhamsikhel, make for nice mountain views. Valley temperatures will decrease TGIF, 10% discount all day, by about two degrees compared to last week, while temperatures happy hour 6-8PM, 2114075 nationwide will decrease by an average of two degrees. Afternoons The Corner Bar, will be considerably drier than mornings, so remember to pack 5-7PM, 3-11PM, Radisson some chapstick. Hotel Kathmandu, 4411818 Al Fresco, for homemade pasta, steak and freshwater trout, Soaltee Crowne Plaza, 4273999 Kakori, for biryanis, curries and kebabs, Soaltee Crowne KATHMANDU Plaza, 7-10.45PM Chez Caroline for French and Mediterranean cuisine, Babar Mahal Revisited, 4263070 Mediterranean cuisine every Friday from Greece, Italy and KATHMANDU VALLEY the Middle East at The Café, Hyatt Regency, 4491234 Teppanyaki meat items and garlic rice at Le Resturant, Fri Sat Sun Gairidhara, 4436318 Plat Du Jour at Hotel Shangri-La, Lazimpat, Rs 600, 4412999 Reality Bites, The Kaiser Café, Garden of Dreams, 33-13 32-13 32-14 operated by Dwarika’s Group of Hotels, 9AM-10PM, 4425341 RECIPES by GRAHAM SYDNEY Starry night barbecue at Hotel Shangri-La with live performance by Ciney Gurung, Rs 999, at the Shambala Garden, every Friday 7PM onwards, 4412999 Warm chicken & Brie salad Cut the chicken into strips of about ½ cm thick. Himalayan Rainbow Trout at Hotel Yak and Yeti, Darbar (Serves 4) Mix the garlic, rosemary, parsley, lemon juice, Marg, 4248999 red chilli powder and olive oil together, season Tiger for Breakfast, breakfast everyday at 1905, Kantipath, This salad has some strong, sharp flavours so I like to use well with salt and pepper, and marinate the some strong flavours in my salad ingredients. These chicken for at least one hour. Arrange the salad 4215068 include onion, green herbs, peppers, celery and radish. leaves on the plate and top with the other salad Stupa View Restaurant, for vegetarian creations & clay Avocado will also compliment this salad. ingredients. In a non-stick frying pan, sauté the oven pizza at Boudha Stupa, 4480262 chicken on high heat for 3-4 minutes before Gokarna Forest Resort for a variety of sizzlers at Tripti 2-3 de-boned, skinless chicken breasts adding the rest of the marinade to the pan as this bar, 4451212 ½ cup olive oil will serve as your dressing. Remove from the heat 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped and toss in the cubes of GETAWAYS 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, chopped Brie. Spoon the chicken 1 teaspoon chopped parsley mixture over the salad and Relax Package at Hyatt Regency Kathmandu for Rs 5555 ¼ teaspoon red chilli powder serve immediately. plus taxes, for a night of double occupancy with breakfast, juice of 3 lemons complimentary use of spa. Offer valid for Nepalis and local salt & pepper to taste residents only, 4489800 1 cup Brie cut into 1cm cubes some of your favourite salad ingredients

For inclusion in the listing send information to editors(at)nepalitimes.com HAPPENINGS 23 - 29 OCTOBER 2009 #473 15

KIRAN PANDAY TEA PARTY DIPLOMACY: Maoist Chaiman Pushpa Kamal Dahal, standing next to UML chairman Jhalanath Khanal, greets an artist during a Maoist-hosted tea reception to mark Tihar and Chhat on Tuesday.

INDU NEPAL MAX CAPACITY: People throng Rani Pokhari, which was opened for an unprecedented second straight day on Tuesday, during Mha Puja.

WITH DIGNITY: The World Economic Forum and Young Global Leader Forum joined hands with Kathmandu College of Management on Tuesday to celebrate World Dignity Day.

INDU NEPAL BAGMAN: An overburdened salesman sells a bag to customers in Patan last week. N 16 with thebathwater, ass(at)nepalitimes.com black flags. was becauseheafraidtheBaddieswouldshowhim the reasonMakunaydidn’tgotoMaoistteaparty these feudalevents?Anyway,youmusthaveheardthat can’t theyhavea a DasainTiharteapartylikethebourgeoisparties?Why If theMaoistswantaNewNepalwhyonearthwouldthey tohold Sambat. war fortheumpteenthtimeifNepalSambatwasn’tmadeaRastra offices. MKNgavein’cozYummyhadearlierthreatenedtogo backto Bund Manka KhalablackmailedMakunaybythreateningan national holidaywasbecauseComYummyandherhangers-onatthe A molejusttoldthemulethatrealreasonTuesdaywasdeclareda plated #11cars? Peking Duck Nepalis learningtospeakMandarinandstuffingtheirfaceswith mushrooming alloverNepal.TheAssfindsnothingwrongwith nearly 200schoolsacrossthecountry.Chinese-ownedrestaurantsare and therearePeaceCorps-typeChinesevolunteersteachingMandarinat And thatain’tall.ThereareConfuciusCentressproutingalloverNepal, our sensitiveparts,we’lltickleyours. India’s ChickenNeckwasn’tlostontheDelhibrass.Moral:youtickle Studies Centre.ThefactthattheChinesepokedafingersocloseto than theChineseambassadorwasofftoKakarbhittasetupa the IndianambassadordonatedfourkarodstoamonasteryinMustang, something outofit,likeintheMahendradays,becausenosoonerhad feeling veryyamlike.Forawhileitlookedlikewe’dactuallymake getting readytoplaykabbadiagain.PoorlittleNepalisoncemore At notimehasthisbeenastrueitisnowwithAsia’stwogiants predicament asthatofa realise hehitthenailonheadbydescribingNepal’sgeopolitical This country’sfoundinggrandfather,KingPrithvi,probablydidn’t gotten onwiththings.Thingswouldbewaybetter. sundry. Cometothinkofit,weshould’vejustmadehimprezand return theBaron’scalls,andisconsumedbyrevengeagainstall ambition tobethefirstpresidentofNepal.Thisiswhyhedoesn’t because Girijajustcan’tgetaroundtoforgivinganyoneforthwartinghis The reasonforallthesufferingwearegoingthroughtodayissolely Dear LeaderKim‘BadHairDay’Jong-Il. wasn’t inthefrayotherwisewe’dbesomewherenextto would surelyhavemadeittotheTopTen.AndgoodthingMakunay unceremoniously removedbyaceremonialprez,Nepal’sprimeminister beat PresidentObamabyanosetoget#14.IfAwesomehadn’tbeenso Maldives, whohasjustemergedfromanunderwatercabinetmeeting, Robert Mugabe(#168).Fortherecord,PresidentNasheedof Baron head-on witha15-tontruck(at#119). Kagame ofRwandawholookslikeaDeuxChevauxaftersuffering of Nepalat#128belowManMohanSingh(#85)andPresidentPaul government andhaschosentoranktheFirstPresidentofRepublic website doesn’tmakeadistinctionbetweenheadsofstateand of BhutanmakingittoNumeroThree.Butwhatispuzzlingthatthe (http://hottestheadsofstate.wordpress.com) andElvis-lookalikeJigmeJr Tymoshenko toppingthelistof The AsshasnoquibblesaboutUkrainianprimordialministerYulia comes upwithhisown34-pointdemand. as manytrianglestoitwewanteverytimesomeone political diversity.Thebeautyofitiswecankeepadding compromise formulathatwillreflectNepal’sethnicand The onlyconsolationforouryoungrepublicisthat our fathers ifhedidn’tagreetomakeMhaPujaado-nothingdayforall govt isapparentlyhandsomerthantheEmirofKuwait(#155)and BACKSIDE triangle flagandthosewhowanttothrowitout who wanttokeepthecurrentsolar-lunardouble ow thatthecountryispolarisedbetweenthose , buthowcomealltheserestaurantownershaveblue- Flags of Mao Tai symbolises ourcutthroatnationaltrait? triangles, thenhowaboutthisonethat Ok, ifyouhavesomethingpersonalagainst Donkey sweet potato partyandrevolutionise FG FG FG FG hascomeupwitha FG FG FG hottest headsofstate squeezedbetweentwoboulders. Upatyaka Ram the CDO Regd No194/056/57Lalitpur, CentralRegion PostalRegd.No 09/066/67 23 -29OCTOBER2009 #473

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