Pilgrim in Words.Pdf

Forth to Farne Way A Pilgrimage in Words and Pictures

With special thanks to all contributors of images and reflections.

This booklet has been produced through the voluntary work of three members of the Forth to Farne Way Steering Group and the presentation is by the voluntary work of a professional graphic designer. We want this to be freely available to all interested pilgrims. However if you wish to make a contribution to the ongoing work of the Forth to Farne Way Steering The wild geese fly over Group and our ability to produce and print further support leaflets, then you the waiting cave. can make a donation by a secure online 'donate' button at On too long a journey www.forthtofarne.org they change formation, easing the strain, For more information contact like these steady few, www.forthtofarne.org or www.sprf.org.uk good Cuthbert’s chosen guard, migrating to safety, leaving Lindisfarne.

Andy Raine The Route The Forth to Farne Way is a new Pilgrim Route which makes use of existing core paths with optional branches of spiritual, natural heritage and cultural importance. We hope that walking this Way will bring a sense of achievement and the opportunity to reflect on life’s journey. The Pilgrim Route’s full distance is 72 miles.

Places of interest St Andrews Kirk St Abbs Harbour Scottish Seabird Centre Coldingham Priory Coastal Communities Museum Eyemouth Harbour Tantallon Castle Hutton’s Unconformity St Mary’s Parish Church, Whitekirk Burnmouth Settlements Preston Mill Berwick Ramparts and Lighthouse Dunbar Castle Berwick Bridges Dunglass Collegiate Church Goswick Sands Cove Harbour Causeway to Lindisfarne Fast Castle Lindisfarne Priory and Castle Historic Links The Way connects historic towns and villages with areas of outstanding natural heritage and coastal scenery, for a period encompassed within the former Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Northumbria which pre-dated the current border between Scotland and England. The Way helps to celebrate the historic ties between St Andrews, Lindisfarne and Durham as major centres of religious pilgrimage, with links going back to St Aidan, Cuthbert, Ebba and Baldred. What is Pilgrimage? For your own thoughts on your pilgrim journey The Oxford dictionary defines it as ‘a journey to a place of particular interest or significance’ and ‘Life viewed as a journey.’ We think of Christian pilgrimage as a journey taken to places of Christian significance often linked to lives of saints on paths they have taken, or life as a spiritual journey. So far no mention of walking, but this is the usual mode of travel. Many may walk this route and enjoy using this booklet as they pause and with all their senses become aware of God’s creation, their part in it and his presence with them. What if we are no longer able to walk this far? Many of the places en route are accessible by car and bus, but if physical health precludes even this, then take an armchair pilgrimage using this booklet, a ‘Pilgrimage in Pictures and Words.’

However you make your pilgrimage we hope and pray it will be a spiritually enriching journey. Blessing for walkers A Pilgrim’s Reflection May God be in our eyes We are called to follow making them keen to appreciate in the footsteps of the first disciples the colour and form of his designs. We are called to follow May Christ be in our feet in the footsteps of the early saints keeping them sure and steady We are called to follow on stony paths and narrow ledges. in the footsteps May the Spirit be on the wind of faithful ones today pure and strong to blow away all that keeps us from inner peace. Jesus calls us to follow in his footsteps on our journey of life. © Heather Johnston © Heather Johnston

‘Lead Thou me on Keep Thou my feet; I do not ask to see The distant scene - one step enough for me.’

John Henry Newman The Journey Give me my scallop shell of quiet, Journey’s End My staff of faith to lean upon, My scrip of joy, immortal diet My bottle of salvation, My gown of glory, hope’s true gage And thus I’ll make my pilgrimage

Prayer of Francis Drake

See ahead of you as you travel the sands and walk the pilgrim’s way the open road, the open space the sun’s warmth to cheer you on your Way. Find the space within yourself to be still, to experience the Beloved in your heart as you make space for her.

‘The World is full of the grandeur of the God’ ‘And I have felt May the God of these ruins Gerard Manley Hopkins A presence that disturbs me with the joy surround us with his strength Of elevated thoughts; a sense sublime May the Christ of Aidan and Cuthbert Of something far more deeply interfused, encompass us with his compassion ‘Where’er you walk, cool gales shall fan the glade, Trees where you sit, shall crowd into a shade; Whose dwelling is the light of setting suns, May the Spirit of the wild geese Where’er you tread the blushing flowers shall rise And the blue sky and in the mind of man.’ empower us as we return home May the light and love of Lindisfarne And all things flourish, where you turn your eyes’ William Wordsworth shine in every corner of our existence. Alexander Pope Alpha and Omega © Heather Johnston Don’t look back along the track Beginning and end And now for rest as journey reaches its end the blasts of wind in your face The beginning is the end and final destination. but embrace the steps before you The end is the beginning And behold the sun comes out again well travelled by other pilgrims on the way In the circle of Eternity the steps of saints as they travel as though to greet you and welcome you home. © Heather Johnston to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne © Gabrielle Ayerst the centre of spiritual fire and place of love and beauty

© Gabrielle Ayerst Thoughts on Creation St Andrew St Andrew was a fisherman, one of Jesus’ first disciples and was the ‘Hail to thee, blithe spirit, Creator God, reveal to us, as our journey we begin, Bird thou never wert. The beauty and grandeur in all around we see, brother of Simon Peter. He was there at the feeding of five thousand and And singing still dost soar, Exquisite detail in every tiny flower and stone, took the boy with loaves and fishes to Jesus. He is known as the ‘networking’ disciple because and soaring ever singest.’ To hear in every natural sound the gentle harmony, he introduced people to Jesus. Our hearts’ beat with Yours in rhythm and in tune. He is believed to have been crucified by the Romans at Patras in Greece on an X shaped To a skylark - Bysshe Shelley cross as he didn’t think himself worthy to be crucified the same way as Jesus. This became Kirsten Coulter the Saltire or St Andrew’s cross. Legend tells of how during the battle near Athelstaneford ‘Look at the birds of the air; they neither sow nor reap, the Pictish King prayed for victory and on seeing a saltire shape in the sky promised that St Andrew would be patron saint of Scotland if he won the battle. nor gather into barns and yet your heavenly father feeds them. Are you not of more value that they?’ The city of St Andrews is one of the major places of pilgrimage in Scotland. In the middle ages there was a ferry run by Cistercian nuns to take thousands of pilgrims from North Matthew 6:26 Berwick across the Firth of Forth to Fife after probably selling them the pilgrim ‘Consider the lilies of the field. they neither toil nor spin, yet badges they had made. Many a pilgrim even Solomon in all his glory was not clothed like one of these’ may well have spent some time in prayer Matthew 6:28-29 before the altar dedicated to Mary in the ‘To see the world in a grain of sand Chapel of St Andrews (better known ‘To me the meanest flower that blows can give And heaven in a wild flower, today as the 'Auld Kirk') asking our Lady Thoughts that do often lie too deep for words.’ Hold infinity in the palm of your hand, for a safe crossing. St Andrews Auld Kirk, North Berwick And eternity in an hour.’ ‘And ‘tis my faith that every flower Whitekirk: a medieval place of Pilgrimage Enjoys the air it breathes.’ William Blake Though there may have been a place of worship in Whitekirk since the 8th century, the William Wordsworth ‘Flocks may graze in tranquil safety’ present church of St Mary’s dates from the later Middle Ages. It may surprise many to find

‘He paints the wayside flower.’ H A Chambers such a big church in the middle of the country side, but Whitekirk was a world famous place of pilgrimage due to its holy well known for its healing powers. In its heyday it was John Montgomery Campbell ‘All we like sheep have gone astray, visited by thousands of pilgrims and pilgrims’ hostels were built to accommodate at least ... ‘he goes ahead of them and theh sheeph We’ve turned everyone to his own way’ some of them. Among the pilgrims were James IV and Aeneas Piccolomini, the future Pope follow him because they know his voice... Pius II. Sadly today the exact place of the Holy well is no longer known. Isaiah 53:6 I am the good shepherd.’ 'When the well's dry they know the worth of water.' John 10:4 and 11 Anonymous Be careful not to break too many shells upon the sand, 'The water that I will give will and listen to the song of the birds become in them a spring of water and the wailing of the seals gushing up to eternal life.'

Baldred (or Balthere) is believed to have A prayer for St Baldred’s Day On the Heugh Father God, We have not gone this way before come from Lindisfarne to evangelise an area The wind buffets our bodies So when we tire along the stony track, now known as East Lothian. He founded a Almighty God we sway like boats And our feet are blistered sore, monastery in Tyninghame as well as church on white crested waves; We celebrate your servant, Baldred of the Bass When we are tempted to turn back- comm unities at Auldhame, Prestonkirk and we smell and taste salt in the air who brought Christianity Lend us Your staff. possibly Whitekirk. Like to this corner of Scotland many of the Celtic You are Creator Faith and courage You’ll surely send, missionaries who went By his cradle You are God If faithfully we follow You. before him he liked to live nurture our faith Make us one with creation So when we reach the journey’s end, a more ascetic life and that we may be a cradle of Your love. We see the distant hills to the West, And our lives are finally in review- Be our constant Vision. often retired to his small Around his Well the Farnes, home of wild creatures; hermitage on Bass Rock. refresh us with living water the lighthouse beam reminds us of Kirsten Coulter The importance of St that Your life may spring up within us. the Word, the Light of the World Baldred for East Lothian is On his rock You are Christ confirmed by the number lead us to the place apart You are God of natural spots named that through our prayers Bind us together in your love after him - St Baldred’s we may draw others close to You. Below us the legacy of Viking raiders, Cradle (Tyninghame In his Kirk but faith could not be destroyed; beach), St Baldred’s Cave where the Easter Gospel today hands reach out (Seacliff beach), ruins of Lindisfarne Priory has been proclaimed for fourteen hundred years in reconciliation St Baldred’s Well (East lead us into new ways of thinking, living and being Linton). In the grounds of You are the Spirit Through Jesus Christ, our risen Saviour and Prestonkirk Church, Tyninghame Estate are the Of power and peace Lord. Amen East Linton remains of a 12th century Make us vessels for you church dedicated to St Baldred, thought to Rev. David Scott Ebb and flow have been built on the ruins of the surge and recede; monastery. This can only be visited on the rhythm of tides and waves garden open days. accompanies our praise You are Father, Son and Spirit You are God. ‘The Journey’ by Fenwick Lawson, St Mary’s Church, Lindisfarne © Heather Johnston

Near Pettico Wick St Cuthbert’s Isle St Aidan St Abb’s Saints He came from Iona to Lindisfarne with some other monks. Their mission was to convert the A history of Cockburnspath parish notes the local legend in which the three beautiful daughters people of Northumbria to Christianity at the invitation of King Oswald who was a Christian of a king of Northumbria, vowed to virginity, set sail for the north to escape their father’s and earlier mission attempts had failed. With his monks he travelled miles all over marriage plans or heathen ways or the Vikings. Having been saved from shipwreck and brought Northumbria not just telling people about God and his love for them but showing it by to safety at St Abb’s by divine intervention, they vowed to build churches close to the sea. loving and caring for all those he met. King Oswin gave him a fine horse to ride on his Dunbar Parish Church St Bee (or Bae, Baya or Bega) travels but he gave it away to the first poor person that he met so that he could sell it and The collegiate church on the site of the present parish church, founded by Earl Patrick in 1342, buy enough food for a long, long time. The King was not very pleased but even he began was dedicated to St Bae or Bay, who also had a well at the foot of a cliff west of the castle. to see that everyone was important to God and it was not right that some were very rich and others very poor. St Bee or Begha, virgin about 660 AD St Aidan’s Prayer This saint was of royal Irish race. Aidan: My Exemplar Leave me alone with God as much as may be Embarking alone in a small boat, she made her way to the opposite coast of Northumbria. As the tide draws the waters close in upon the shore, Here she dwelt for some time in a woodland retreat, after receiving the monastic habit These are God’s family, Make me an island, set apart, from St. Aidan, the bishop. She afterwards presided over a community of virgins, whose company of heaven. alone with you, God, holy to you. government she eventually resigned to St. Hilda. These are our saints, Then with the turning of the tide lovingly prepare me to carry your presence to the busy world beyond Cockburnspath St Helen’s Church keeping vigil, the world that rushes in on me, The remains of St Helen’s Church stand 170 metres from the high-water mark on the gracious companions in till the waters come again and fold me back to you. shore. Originally a twelfth-century church, extensively rebuilt in the late fourteenth or our daily prayer. fifteenth century, probably going out of use when this parish was united to that of Aidan, Cockburnspath. However, the presence of one complete hogback stone and part of be my present friend and my exemplar, another, suggests the existence of a rather earlier church here. teaching me to rise and listen There are various St Helens. She was most likely the mother of St Constantine, a true each new day. Christian, who legend says successfully searched for the image of The True Cross in Jerusalem. May I listen for the breath of the ever-present Spirit. St Abb, St Helen and St Bee May I hear the heart that speaks They a’ built kirks, whilk to be nearest the sea; in each I meet along the way. St Abb’s upon the nabs, St Helen’s on the Lea, Discretion is not about holding back, St Baes upon Dunbar’s sands, but harnessing the power of Christ’s Spirit, Stands nearest to the sea. to crash like white surf on a racing tide. Anonymous Teach me to be surprised and not surprised, like you the close companion of the God of wonders.

Andy Raine St Aidan, Lindisfarne St Helen’s church St Ebba St Cuthbert St Ebba was the daughter of King Aethelfrith, sister to Oswald and Oswy, they spent their StS Cuthbert was called by God when he was a shepherd on the hills of childhood in exile on Iona where Ebba converted to Christianity, pledging herself to Lauderdale.L One night as he looked toward the East, to Lindisfarne and virginity. When King Edwin died they returned to Bamburgh where Oswald became King, HolyH Island, he saw strange lights in the sky as of angels. St Aidan allowing Ebba to go to Ebchester near Durham where she founded a monastery, later whisperedw “Pools of light” as he died that very night on Bamburgh, moving to Coldingham where she founded a double monaster y, believed to be on Kirk Hill, anda once Cuthbert heard of this he knew he was called there. First he St Abb’s Head. Cuthbert loved to visit here, coming to give instruction on monastic life. wasw accepted as a novice monk at Melrose and was mentored by the Ebba died in 683 and soon after her monastery burnt down. Ebba herself though was, to ggentle Abbot St Boisil. Later he was appointed Abbot of Lindisfarne. quote Bede, ‘a pious woman, a handmaid of Christ’ ‘and she is an example of women in Sculpture on Lindisfarne Almighty God who called Cuthbert out of the early Celtic church holding positions of authority. Her feast day is August 25th. ‘.. there were shepherds in the fields the darkness of night to be the Fire of the On Kirk Hill keeping watch over their flocks by night. North, set our hearts on fire with Your Site of the Ancient Monastery of St. Ebba Then an angel of the Lord stood before love, and help us to show forth Your light them, and the glory of the Lord shone today, through Christ Or Lord, who is the I reach out to enter the circle around them’ light of the world and lives and reigns with of an encompassing presence, You and the Holy Spirit, one God now my spirit is reborn on my breath Luke 2:8,9 and forever. Amen carried on the cries of sea birds across the unending ocean, ‘Cuthbert used to go forth from his cell… David Adam © PLSclear used with permission my feet are firm on the earth and minister to them. He shut himself up pulled down through rocks and soil Site of the Chapel of St Ebba in the hermitage to live a solitary life of In your bosom I nest. of centuries of civilisations ‘I must go down to the sea again, to the fasting, prayers and vigils. Cuthbert did You are the calm of the sea not restrict his teaching and influence to the In that peace I rest. I hear her prayers lonely sea and the sky. monastery, but worked to rouse ordinary You are the waves drifting on the wind, over the cliffs And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to folk far and near to exchange their foolish on the shore’s glistening stones down under the sea steer by.’ customs for a love of heavenly joys.’ Their sound is my hymn. weaving through green weed and bright fish John Masefield You are the song of the birds St Bede the Venerable surfacing on the backs of sea horses Their tune I sing. leaping the boundaries of time You are the sea breaking on rock ‘He went in silence along the shore of the to mingle with mine, I praise you with the swell. loud-sounding sea’ as I enter the circle You are the ocean that laps my being of an encompassing presence. Homer In you I dwell

Kirk Hill St Boisil A Saint at Wellmouth Saint Boisil was a monk of Melrose Abbey, an offshoot This is based on the legend that St Cuthbert came to visit St Ebba at the monastery on of Lindisfarne, then in the Anglo-Saxon Kingdom of St Abbs Head and whilst he was there he spent the night praying in the sea in Wellmouth Northumbria, but now in Scotland, where he must have Bay at the foot of Kirk Hill. been one of the first generation of monks. He probably moved to the new foundation of Melrose when it was He stood on the pebble shore St Abb’s Harbour contemplating the art of his Creator; started, probably some time in the late 640s. Saint Boisil ‘Then they cried to the Lord in their trouble the cove held snugly by rosy rocks was prior of this house; Boisil then succeeded Eata as And he brought them out from their distress; backed by green headland abbot in 659. He made the storm be still, St Bois il’s fame is mainly due to his connection with his He lapsed into meditation of his Maker And the waves of the sea were hushed. great pupil, Saint Cuthbert, but it is plain that the as the sun dipped behind him, Then they were glad because they had quiet, master was worthy of the disciple. the waves crept nearer, washing his feet and he brought them to their desired haven. dragging the hem of his robe Let them thank the Lord for his steadfast love, ‘Boisil was a monk of the Monastery at Melrose… For his wonderful works to humankind.’ famed all over the country for his rare and excellent virtues’. Bede He prayed for his own unworthiness in the eyes of Christ his Saviour; Psalm 107 verses 28-31 Boisil went on missionary journeys down the Tweed, where he would stay in local villages as darkness fell across the sea preaching and healing sick people with herbs and water from various springs and wells. waves lapped icily around his ankles Some of these visits would have been to ‘Twedmuthe’, now called Tweedmouth. He petitioned for the souls of all mankind The new wave of Christianity, spread locally from Holy Island through Aidan, Boisil, and as the moon came over the water, St Cuthbert, was universally known as Celtic Christian Spirituality. sailing across the silent sky Such an expression of Christianity spoke directly into peoples’ lives. It fitted naturally within silvering the waves, now reaching waist-high their environment and the rhythm of the seaso ns, enabling them to experience Christ in He thanked and praised the Eternal God, their own familiar community life and work. as the tide ebbed from the shore Its distinctive features included: otters came and warmed his feet, St Abbs - Love of the Natural World while fingers of dawn stroked the stirring sky. - Hospitality © Heather Johnston - Blessing Prayers and Worship - Prayers of Protection - The Celtic Cross

‘Keep me as the apple of Your eye; Hide me in the shadow of your wings. Melrose Abbey Lighten my darkness, Lord Let the light of Your presence Dispel the shadows of night.’

From the Boisil Compline Northumbria Community Wellmouth Bay Coldingham Bay Eyemouth

Praise to God for strong rugged rocks ‘Lead me to the rock that Bronze sculptures were erected at Eyemouth, Burnmouth and St Abbs to remember the Praise to Christ for the sandy shore is higher than I’ great Eyemouth fishing disaster of October 14th 1881 when a windstorm struck the Praise to the Spirit for white, surging waves Berwickshire coast. One hundred and eighty nine fishermen lost their lives, mostly from Psalm 61:2 Praise Three in One for evermore Eyemouth but some from St Abb’s, Burnmouth, Cove, Newhaven, and Fisherrow. It is named locally as Black Friday. Praise to God for beasts of the fields ‘When they had gone ashore, Praise to Christ for birds of the air they saw a charcoal fire there, ‘God moves in mysterious ways ‘Two voices are there; one is of the deep; Praise to the Spirit for creatures of the deep with fish on it and bread’ His wonders to perform It learns the storm-cloud’s thunderous melody Praise Three in One for evermore He plants His footsteps in the sea Now roars, now murmurs with the changing sea.’ John 21.9 And rides upon the storm.’ © Heather Johnston James Kenneth Stephen William Cowper

‘O hear us when we cry to Thee For those in peril on the sea.’

William Whiting

All flesh and bones gone yet love still survives As kinfolk keep precious memories alive Eyemouth Coldingham Priory Children’s children retell in so many vivid tales Of a time when proud ancestors hoisted their sails Reflections written by pupils of Coldingham Primary School. Look for them in the grounds and ruins of the Priory. © Gilly Peakman

Priory still here Who came here? don’t walk away kings, serfs, monks, this place holds memories saints, soldiers please think and stay and you Riches to ruins Pause a moment rebuilt and revived; think a moment for 900 years happiness is free a living church Come and sit down Man of God The holy monks of old there’s peace to be found our special saint are still reflected today listen to the sound shepherd boy to bishop in their good deeds A torch for Christianity Princess to Abbess and noble works kindled light and love of our first church in hearts of all Mother of Northumbria