the Corran herald Compiled and published by ballymote heritage group ISSUE No.44 2011/2012 PRICE €8.00 The Corran Herald Annual Publication of Ballymote Heritage Group

Compiled and Published by Ballymote Heritage Group

Editor: James Flanagan

Design, Typesetting and Printing: Orbicon Print, Collooney.

Cover Design and Artwork: Brenda Friel

Issue No 44 2011/2012 –––––––––––––––

The Corran Herald wishes to sincerely thank all those who have written articles or contributed photographs or other material for this Issue 2 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

Contents Page O’Reillys – The Forgotten Landlords (John McDonagh) 4 McDonaghs of Carrowkeel and their Changing Fortunes (John C.McTernan) 7 The Importance of Fraternities and Social Clubs for the Protestant Community in Sligo from 1914 to 1949 (Padraig Deignan) 9 Page from Minutes of AGM of the Shareholders of The Ballymote Electric Lighting & Town Improvement Co Limited, 2 November 191 (John Coleman) 16 66o South – Travels in Antarctica (Stephen Flanagan) 17 The Gillan Longcars (Eugene Gillan) 20 The Parish Mission in the 19th Century (Padraig Feeley) 21 Colonel Oliver O’Gara 1694 – c1761 in Europe (Maura O’Gara-O’Riordan) 25 Keeping the Peace in Keash 100 Years Ago (John Higgins) 29 “God Save All Here” (Kathleen Fitzmaurice) 0 Charles O’Conor 1710 – 1791 (Murtagh Corcoran) 2 A Prayer (Bernie Martin)  The Rock of the Cats (PJ Duffy) 4 Traditional Rhymes (PJ Duffy) 5 Bi-Centenary Celebrations of St Kevin’s Church, Keash, rd Aug 2009 (Padraig Duffy) 6 Eddie Masterson Remembered (James Reddiough) 8 Fr Michael O’Flanagan and the Cloonerco Bog Fight (Joe McGowan) 40 Late 18th Century Views of Ballymote: Bigari, Beranger and Grose (John Coleman) 4 Castlebaldwin Village (Clare Walsh) 46 Local History from Hollybrook to Clohogue (Clare Walsh) 46 The Sligo Shoe Factory (Bernie Gilbride) 47 Summer Sojurns in Ballymote (Neal Farry) 49 Ballymote’s John Perry Appointed Minister for Small Business 50 Clerical Influence on the Outcome of 19th Century Sligo Elections (John C. McTernan) 51 Dreams of an Everyday Housewife (Bernie Martin) 5 North Roscommon Gaelicisms (Continued) (Frank Tivnan) 54 Ballincar House, Ballincar, Co. Sligo (Martin A. Timoney) 56 James Daly (Nancy Smyth) 60 Carrowcullen House: From Family Home to Convent to Hermitage (Martin Wilson) 61 Music and the Megaliths (Lynda Hart) 6 To be Let (Padraig Doddy) 64 The Megalithic Cemetery, Carrowmore (Bernie Gilbride) 65 The Church of Aughanagh/Aghanagh (Clarelsh) 66 Jack Perry 16.5.1927 – 17.11.2010 66 The Fair of Baldwin (Clare Walsh) 67 The Stile (Kathleen Fairbanks) 68 Verbal Footprints (Leo Mattimoe) 69 Care Free, Bealtaine, The Robin (Poems, Bernie Gilbride) 70 Michael Lang (Dermot O’Donnell) 71 Maura O’Gara-O’Riordan Honoured 72 Memories of a Country Scholar of the Fifties (Joan Gleeson) 7 The Man of Ninety Two (John McDonagh) 7 I Wish my Neck Was a Mile Long (Mary Kelly White) 74 Death of G Dodwell (Padraig Doddy) 76 New Community Library and Fire Station in Ballymote 77 Barratoore (Bernie Gilbride) 78 The Miners’ Way (Mary Guckian) 78 Ballymote Heritage Group 84

 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 O’Reillys - The Forgotten Landlords John McDonagh

If we could journey back in time cut-away, or reclaimed bog land to to the eighteenth and nineteenth view the extent of the flax growing centuries, we would find a system that existed throughout this area. Flax of land ownership that would seeds and fibres are everywhere. The be almost unrecognisable today. entire crop, bound up in sheaves, The majority of the population would be left to “ret” ( rot off the outer lived on, worked on, or made their layers of fibre) for a couple of weeks, meagre living from the land, either in bog holes, so that the inner layer as tenant farmers, cottiers, or landless could be salvaged for the complicated labourers. Most of the land was and hugely labour intensive process owned or controlled either by of linen making. (Scutching, carding, landlords, the Established Church, spinning, weaving and bleaching.) or other corporate bodies (Trinity Flax growing appears to have College Dublin – T.C.D, was one of been widespread and intensive and the biggest landowners in the entire must have given employment to a country), while twelve London great number of people, before the companies were granted vast tracts widespread importation of much of land in Co. Derry in return for cheaper cotton led to its downfall and financing the Plantation of Ulster in eventual demise. Dowell O’Reilly from a painting th the seventeenth century. (Terrence Although most of the land Deed of conveyance 14 April M Dooley----“Estate ownership and owning class was of the Protestant 1786 (The O’Reilly papers): management in nineteenth and early Denomination, there were exceptions “ By deeds of lease of this twentieth-century Ireland”) to this. The Catholic O’Reilly family date executed by the chief register of This privileged elite were largely owned the townlands of Spurtown The Court of Exchequer and other of the Protestant faith, often the and Ougham in the civil parish of parties. The lands of North and South descendants of Cromwellian land Kilshalvy, Co. Sligo. Ballinspur situate in the County of grantees and although our history They began their ownership in Sligo, were conveyed to Dowell tends to judge them very harshly, they these parts as Catholics in the year O’Reilly for a consideration of £6500 should not all be tarred with the one 1786, when Dowell O’Reilly, a legal Sterling—Residue of a lease made by th brush. representative and property owner of Nicholas Lord Carlingford dated 15 Some treated their tenants quite well some note, inherited a fortune from Oct 1680 at an annual rent of £25-16s while others treated them abysmally, his uncle Mathew, an unmarried 8d” but most left the day-to-day running London merchant. He then used this (Ballinspur was the ancient gaelic of their estates in the hands of their inheritance to purchase these Co Sligo name for Spurtown) agents and bailiffs. Because these lands from the representatives of one were usually paid a commission Thomas Harte, for the sum of £6500. Dowell O’ Reilly on the rents they collected, they Dowell O’Reilly’s ancestral home were often more demanding, more (This Thomas Harte, was a direct was “Tulleystown”, Co. Westmeath. unscrupulous, and more ruthless than descendant of Coronel Thomas Harte, He was a direct descendant of “Myles the land-owners themselves. Indeed a Cromwellian land grantee who leased the Slasher,” who held the title “Prince many of the biggest landowners did the said lands for a nine hundred and of Breffeni” and was entitled to call not live in the country at all because eighty seven year term from Nicholas himself “The O’Reilly”. of their involvement in politics, the Taafe, Earl of Carlingford, at an Originally from Co. Cavan, Dowell armed forces, or other government annual rent of £25-16s-8d. Thomas purchased and settled in Heath House, positions. Harte, is mentioned several times in” Abbeyliex, Co. Laois (Queen’s Most of the land was under tillage, Woodmartin’s History of Sligo” and County) in the year 1804. Dowell growing potatoes, oats, rye, or flax achieved fame, or notoriety, as second was twice married; his second wife for the struggling and very labour- in command to Lord Kingston at was Elizabeth Knox from Moyne, intensive linen industry. One has The Battle of Sligo in the Williamite Co. Mayo. A dedicated member of the only to disturb the top layer of any Wars.) Established Church, she succeeded

4 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 in converting the Catholic Dowell transactions from their extensive to her religion and despite all of his account books showed a payment of siblings and two daughters being £-8s to have “The Book of Fenagh” members of the Roman Catholic translated from ancient Irish into faith, his letters and writings show a English by the said scholar. He (M.J.R.) marked intolerance towards that faith. was also a sponsor of the renowned The O’ Reilly papers show that in the Irish poet James Clarence Mangan. year 1792, Dowell O’Reilly leased part In 1821, Francis Knox of Moyne, of his land at Spurtown to Robert Duke Co. Mayo, died, leaving his vast of Newpark for “three lifetimes” for a estates to his nephew, Myles John rent of £1,000. (A part of Spurtown is O’Reilly, but it proved to be a now known as “Spurtown Duke.”) Is poisoned chalice! The estate was this is the same Robert commemorated encumbered far beyond its worth and in The Church of Ireland, Ballymote? instead of inheriting a fortune, he Dowell was recognised as chief of was left answerable for all its debts, “The O’Reilly Clan” and inherited the which were only resolved by a decree title “The O’Reilly.” He died on Nov from The House of Lords in 1826. 1, 1808 and the title along with his Costly litigation over his inheritance, Myles George O’Reilly circa estates automatically passed on to his bad luck, poor management and 1875) oldest son, Myles John. ill health, appear to have dogged have been devoted to managing and him all his life. There are many improving his estates and trying accounts of court proceedings with to retrieve the family fortunes. his two sisters, most of which had an It was labour in vain! In the post unfavourable outcome for Myles John. famine era, landlords and tenants In 187 all his possessions in Heath alike all suffered great economic House were auctioned and he and hardship. Despite his best efforts his family were forced to vacate the he was forced to sell Heath House premises. I cannot find any account of in 1864. The Blake family from how they resolved this difficulty but the Co. Mayo were the purchasers. records indicate that from that period, Eight years later in Sept 1872 his M. J. O’Reilly and family alternated lands in Co. Sligo were offered their accommodation between Heath for sale and bought by Alexander House and their properties in Clontarf, Sims, Colooney, in an encumbered Brighton and France, until Heath estate court sale. The rest of his Irish House was finally sold in 1864. properties appear to have met a similar To confound his bad luck, his wife fate and Myles George moved to an Elizabeth Anne died of consumption address in Brighton, where he married Myles John O’Reilly from a on Mar 27th 188. The papers show an English woman Gwendolyn painting that Myles John O’Reilly “died of a (surname unknown). He died in1911. seizure in France” on Oct 27 1857 and Myles George and Gwendolyn the estates and title passed on to his had only one daughter Gwendolyn Myles John O’Reilly oldest son Myles George. Beresford O’Reilly, who married a Myles John O’Reilly appears to have British army officer Major Stanley been a tragic and enigmatic man. Myles George Mundy, from Ascot. They had three Married to Elizabeth Beresford, Myles George O’Reilly, oldest son sons, all of whom pursued a military daughter of The Rev George of Myles John, was born on Oct 29th career and fought in the Great War. Beresford of Fenagh, Co. Leitrim, 1829. Being the oldest, he was the The youngest, Lieutenant Lionel on Jan 16th 1829, he was extremely recognised heir of Myles John and Mundy, was killed in action in the interested in Gaelic culture and arts. as such, set about trying to revive the battle of Krithia in the Gallipoli He employed the well-known scholar, family fortunes. Myles George was an campaign on June 6th 1915, aged 2. John O’Donovan (1806-1861) to tutor educated and cultured man who was The second son, Major Leslie Mundy his children and he gave him living educated in Kings College, Douglas, was listed among the missing at the quarters, medical care and financial on the Isle of Man and later in T.C.D. second battle of Ypres. The oldest son support, in Heath House, during He studied law but never practised. Captain Stanley Beresford Mundy one of his long illnesses. One of the Instead, all his energies appear to survived a long, harsh and inhuman

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internment with the forces of General holdings in Spurtown were reasonably Townsend, after the disastrous siege sized and well laid-out, with no of Kut, in modern-day Iraq. It was he evidence of sub-leasing. There is who presented “The O’Reilly Papers” no local tradition of starvation and to T.C.D. in 1954. He appears to have mass evictions. No bad fire-side folk- no descendants. memories. (Something that cannot Epilogue be said for their predecessors, The Thus ends the tale of The O’Reilly Harts, from a full century earlier.) family, landlords for the townlands Perhaps it may be appropriate to of Spurtown and Ougham for a conclude by quoting the immortal considerable period, during the words from Mark Antony’s speech: eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. “The evil that men do lives after them, They were also landlords for the the good is oft’ interred with their townlands of Emleagh and Rathbane bones.” but they either inherited or sub-leased Sources------The O’Reilly these lands from their in-laws, the Papers ---National Library Knox Family of Co. Mayo. They Photos courtesy of The appear to have been fairly benign in Manuscripts Dept T.C.D. Captain Stanley Beresford their treatment of their tenants. By Many thanks to Sr. Kathleen for Mundy contemporary standards, the land helping with my research.

At Strandhill where there was a troup of boyscouts - Sheila Johnson Reading the Sunday newspapers. One man in plus fours. is seen at the entrance to the tent. Picture courtesy John Coleman from the Maisie McGovern collection. Picture courtesy John Coleman from the Maisie McGovern collection.

At the cannon in Strandhill, late 1920s or very early 1930s. Picture courtesy John Coleman from the Maisie McGovern collection. 6 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 The McDonaghs of Carrowkeel and their Changing Fortunes John C. McTernan

Carrowkeel House, built by from the Penal Code a “fully Lislea and, secondly, Rebecca ‘Baron’ Francis McDonagh fledged squireen” who sported the Trumble of Oldrock. In 1855 title ‘Baron McDonagh’ which, he was appointed Co. Coroner In the early 19th century doubtless, was inspired by the in succession to Meredith John McDonagh, a descendant claim that an ancestor, Hugh Thompson of Knockadoo and as of the Gaelic chieftains, the McDonagh of Ballymote Castle, such enjoyed a social standing McDonaghs of Corran and Tirerill, had been one of the Knights of that undoubtedly would have got possession of the lands of the Shire. The ‘Baron’, who is pleased the old ‘Baron’. Carrowkeel, in the Parish of credited with the building of According to local tradition Emlaghfad, which prior to the the present Carrowkeel House, rows of carriages were regularly 17th century confiscations formed married a Trumble of Old Rock, witnessed on the avenue leading part of the hereditary territory by whom he had issue, and died to Carrowkeel House where of the McDonagh clan. Once in in 1858, aged one hundred years. the Coroner, who was a noted possession John set about reviving John Francis McDonagh (1810- huntsman, entertained both the family’s fortune as did his son, 1884), who succeeded his father, the aristocracy and sporting Francis, who enlarged the holding. was a well known figure in the fraternity of South Sligo. On his death in 1788 his son, Sligo of that era. He married The “Sligo Champion” in Francis, The Younger, emerged twice, firstly, Elizabeth Rea of December 1855 commented

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as follows on McDonagh’s of Carrowkeel and a cousin of of ‘Long Pat’ McDonagh and two election as Co. Coroner: John McDonagh, the Co. Coroner, of her children. A police escort It affords us the greatest pleasure appears to have been a rather followed at a discreet distance. to learn that John McDonagh has reckless individual unbecoming With the dawn of a new year the been elected County Coroner by a his class. In early life he developed local boycott intensified and in great majority. The electors of the an addiction for gambling which mid February a large contingent of district did not forget the claims of eventually led to bankruptcy in the the Sooey and Collooney National Mr McDonagh, who is of an ancient mid 1880s. Finding himself without League branches, headed by a Fife family connected for centuries with a home and landless he was induced and Drum Band, marched on the the County. He has ample proof by R. D. Robinson, land agent for McDonagh residence where a rally given to him that the inhabitants the Griffith’s of Castle Neynoe, to took place and a succession of still bear in kindly regard those take a lease of two small holdings speakers denounced the ‘grabber’ connected by blood with ‘the good in the townland of Ballysumaghan with threats of physical force old stock’. Gentlemen of all ranks from which the Window Henry should he refuse to vacate the and creeds, from those of high and Pat Mulvaney had been properties. As a result McDonagh rank down to the plain but honest evicted for non payment of rents. was placed under police protection. Freeholders, supported him. We McDonagh took up residence in The “Sligo Champion” of congratulate him on his return. February 1889. His arrival did not March 1st , 1890, reported that John McDonagh inherited a pass unnoticed by members of the Jones Taaffe McDonagh, the partially encumbered estate from Sooey Branch of the Irish National ‘Ballysumaghan landgrabber’, had his father and his financial standing League who lost no time in making finally forsaken the locality which was not improved by his somewhat it known to him that a ‘land- he had occupied for just over a extravagant lifestyle. The enforced grabber’ was not welcome in their year and went on to congratulate sale of portion of his property in midst. When McDonagh made it the people of Sooey of having rid the Landed Estates Court improved known that he had no intention of themselves of someone who was matters for a short time but in moving on a boycott was introduced a ‘standing threat’ to the peace July, 1880, on the petition of the whereby shopkeepers and suppliers of the locality It appears that his Governors of the Bank of Ireland, over a twenty miles radius refused hasty exit arose from the fact that a part of Carrowkeel, consisting of to have any dealings with him. In warrant had issued for his arrest on 81 acres &  roods, was advertised an editorial the “Sligo Champion”, an indictable offence, namely, the for sale by the High Court for which supported the policies of theft of goods from the premises of the owner, John McDonagh. At the National League, referred Messrs Cherry Boyers & Co., the the auction he was declared the to McDonagh as “a misguided Sligo merchants. After vacating purchaser at £1,650 but a few weeks wretch” who, to gain a miserable Ballysumaghan McDonagh later McDonagh informed the subsistence, placed himself in was seen “sauntering” around Court that he was not financially in antagonism to the wishes and Ballymote during which he most a position to complete the deal and feelings of the local community. likely paid a visit to his relations Jones Taaffe McDonagh, the next On Christmas Eve 1889 his sister, at Carrowkeel before finally highest bidder at £1,600, was then who resided with him and whose disappearing from the sights and declared as the owner. However, name has not been recorded, died. scenes of his childhood. According in an affidavit in November, 1880, It is believed that her death resulted to local tradition he crossed to he made it known to the Court from cold and starvation and she Liverpool and died penniless a few that he was unwilling to proceed was buried without an inquest. A years later in an English workhouse. with the purchase. As a result a “Sligo Champion” correspondent By any yardstick this was a sad receiver was appointed and in 1881 reported that the funeral departed ending for the scion of a once Carrowkeel House and 140 acres from Ballysumaghan for the highly respectable Gaelic family, were acquired by John Connolly, family burial ground at Emlaghfad chieftains of Corran and Tirerill a Sligo merchant, for £2,050. at an early hour on December and ‘Lords’ of Ballymote Castle. Jones Taaffe McDonagh, a 25th accompanied on foot by her brother of ‘Long Pat’ McDonagh brother, Jones Taaffe, and the wife

8 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 The Importance of Fraternities and Social Clubs for the Protestant Community in Sligo from 1914 to 1949

Pádraig Deignan

This article discusses the importance papers, concerts, billiard and card its members joined the army in large of five fraternal associations and competitions. In 191 the chief numbers and by the end of the war, social clubs – the YMCA, the organising force behind the Y.M.C.A. out of a total membership of 150 the Orange Order, Sligo Constitutional was Philip Perceval, a local Protestant Sligo Y.M.C.A. had contributed 100 Club, the Masonic Order, and the unionist landowner. By May 1914 the soldiers.7 British Legion – to the Protestant Y.M.C.A. had a total of 150 members community in Sligo from 1914 to and it had a good mix of classes and At the end of the war the president 1949. Protestants accounted for a professions.4 of the Y.M.C.A., Philip Perceval significant minority of the population reactivated the organisation. Despite of Sligo. In 1914 the total population the difficulties presented by the War of Sligo town was about 11,000, of of Independence the members of which over 1,700 (over 15 per cent) the Y.M.C.A. made a great effort to were members of Protestant churches. continue their meetings and social The total population of County Sligo events. at the time was over 84,000, and Although the Y.M.C.A. had an Protestants numbered about 8,000 or exclusively Protestant membership, approximately 10 per cent of the total. the organisation was not isolated from Terence Brown has argued that sports the rest of Sligo society and the club and clubs ‘all operated to allow Irish held joint billiard competitions with Protestants to maintain their social Sligo Trades Club and Sligo Catholic distinctiveness’.1 F.S.L. Lyons has Institute.8 made a similar point, arguing that Sligo Trades Club held similar Protestants and ex-unionists divided events as the Y.M.C.A. but was an themselves from Catholics by a kind Philip Perceval organisation specifically set up in of social or psychological apartheid, 1900 as a collective association for the where ‘in all their social activities the Although the organisation was keen to members of skilled trades including minority would keep to themselves.’2 advertise itself as open to membership bakers, carpenters, printers, plumbers However, as well as helping to from all citizens, Catholics did and tailors. In the period 1914 to maintain a separate cultural identity not appear to join the Y.M.C.A., 1949 it appeared that the Trades Club for Protestants, traditionally Protestant possibly because Catholics had their had an almost exclusively Catholic fraternal and social clubs also allowed own organisations such as the Sligo membership.9 for some interaction and integration Catholic Institute or maybe because of However, a good relationship between Protestants and Catholics in the Y.M.C.A.’s traditional connection developed between the Y.M.C.A. and Sligo. with the Protestant faith. The Sligo the Catholic Institute and along with Catholic Institute, which had been joint billiard tournaments, both clubs Y.M.C.A. established in 1880 was a similar were involved in card competitions. The Y.M.C.A., or the Young Men’s organisation to the Y.M.C.A.5 In The joint competitions held between Christian Association, was founded 1914 the membership of the Catholic the two clubs proved to be very in Sligo in 1867. The main aims Institute was around 100, and stood at popular with the members and became of the organisation were to promote about that figure until the late-1940s.6 an annual occurrence, as it seems they the moral, physical, and intellectual During the First World War the were also financially beneficial to improvement of young men. The Sligo Y.M.C.A. showed a strong both clubs. However, both clubs were organisation held debates, essays, commitment to the British war effort, not simply focused on their mutual

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financial positions and both clubs and William Peebles, a Protestant lodges were closed. In the period organised joint charitable ventures. editor of the Sligo Independent 1910 to 1921 three Co. Sligo Orange In February 1925 the YMCA and the newspaper, took over, the organisation Lodges were registered with the Grand Catholic Institute organised a fancy began to thrive again.1 By 199 the Orange Lodge of Ireland. There dress party for children in the town hall. organisation was doing well again are no references to Orange Orders Following the party, William McCrea, and income increased. During the in Co. Sligo in the records of the the honorary secretary of the YMCA, Second World War membership once Grand Orange Lodge of Ireland after paid tribute to David Flemming and again increased and by 1944 club December 1921.17 In fact the Orange other members of the Catholic Institute membership stood at 100.14 In the late Order never seems to have been strong for their contribution to the successful 1940s the club began to organise more in Sligo town in the twentieth century night.10 These charitable endeavours sporting events and consequently the and there is no mention publicly of continued from the mid-1920s to the financial position improved.15 its activities in the town or county in 1940s. the period 1914 to 1921. Unionists The Orange Order seemed to have associated themselves Table 1: The Orange Order had been popular more with Sligo Constitutional Club, in Sligo in the late nineteenth century. which was dominated by Protestant Table 1: Y.M.C.A. membership numbers in selected years, The Order had been founded in 1795 businessmen and landowners. 1914 to 1949 Year Membership numbers with the aim of defending Protestant 1914 150 interests in Ireland. The organisation Sligo Constitutional Club 1915 150 1918 150 came to be strongly associated with In the period 1914 to 1949 Sligo 1925 95 the maintenance of the Union between Constitutional Club, which had been 1926 112 1931 89 Britain and Ireland. The Orange established in 1881 with fifty members, 1935 80 Order was much more prominent in was one of the most popular fraternal 1939 90 18 1944 100 the Ulster counties than in the rest of organisations in Sligo. In 1907 1949 100 the country. membership of the Constitutional Source: Sligo Independent, 1914 to 1949. However, Protestant interest in the Club consisted almost exclusively of

Table 2: Sligo Constitutional Club membership numbers Order was evident in Sligo and in 1875 Protestant businessmen, landowners 1933 to 1949 Sligo elected five Grand Officers to the and professionals. The membership YearIn the Total membershipmid 1920s Protestantthe Y.M.C.A.’sCatholic Grand Orange Lodge of Ireland.16 At of the club at this time was about 100, members members 1933membership94 increased 90from ninety-4 the time of the First and Second Home including two Catholic members who 1934five in 94 1925 to 11290 in May 1926.114 Rule Bills in the 1880s and 1890s the were involved in the grocery trade in 1935 102 98 4 19 1936However,104 in the late100 1920s the4 members of the Orange Order in Sligo Sligo town. 1937membership105 of the 100club trickled5 were mostly Protestant landowners in During the Home Rule crisis 1938off and 108by June 191031 the club5 the county. of 1912-1914, most of the active 1939 100 95 5 1940membership100 had dropped94 to eighty-6 By the beginning of the twentieth Unionists in Sligo were members 1941nine.12 The106 reason for the99 falling off in7 century the Orange Order in Sligo of the Constitutional Club. Club 1942membership106 may have had99 something7 town and county seemed to have meetings were largely suspended 1943 103 95 8 1944to do with114 the general103 decline in11 been largely inactive. Although it is during the First World War. However, 1945Protestant121 numbers in 109Sligo at this12 also fair to suggest that considering in 1919, despite the disruption 1946time and 123the fact that there111 seemed to12 Sligo’s proximity to Ulster, where caused by the War of Independence, 1947 127 115 12 1948have been135 a general lack122 of interest in13 Orange lodges would have been more the members were determined to 1949the activities144 of the organisation128 in the16 inclined to organise a march on the reactivate the club. The club seemed

Source:late Sligo 1920s. Constitutional The Club: economic Account Books, depression Vol. 2: 1933 to 1954Twelfth, members of Sligo Orange to keep its connections with politics in the (S.C.L., 19 0sSligo did Constitutional not help Club, the No. club 350). and lodges may have journeyed there in in Sligo town and many councillors members seemed to have had trouble order to participate in the more overt of the Sligo Ratepayers’ Association, in paying their subscription fees. The displays of Orangeism in Ulster. a municipal reform organisation aging membership of the committee In the early part of the twentieth founded by unionists and nationalists also seemed to have led to a certain century there were nine Orange in 1918, were successful in securing amount of stagnation in the club and Lodges registered in Co. Sligo. Six the election of eight members, five of 1 once a new committee under Alec Orange Order Lodge warrants were them unionist, to Sligo Corporation in Henderson, a Protestant businessman, cancelled in 1910, signifying that six the municipal elections of 1919.

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However, the club was also involved to be associated with a traditionally in social activities. In the late 1920s Protestant club for the better off the club membership increased, professional class; a class which some Table 1: Y.M.C.A. membership numbers in selected years, possibly in response1914 to 1949 to the changed Catholics would have possibly had Year Membership numbers political environment1914 and150 the fact that more in common with than many of 1915 150 ex-Unionists1918 and Protestants150 may have their fellow religionists. It has also 1925 95 found more1926 security in 112an organisation been discovered that many Protestant 1931 89 of like-minded1935 people.80 members of the Constitutional Club 1939 90 1944 100 also belonged to the Masonic Order 1949 100 Table 2: Source: Sligo Independent, 1914 to 1949. in Sligo.

Table 2: Sligo Constitutional Club membership numbers Arthur Jackson 1933 to 1949 Year Total membership Protestant Catholic members members two Freemason lodges, Lodge 20, the 1933 94 90 4 1934 94 90 4 Masonic Order Light of the West Lodge, which had 1935 102 98 4 The first Masonic Lodge in Sligo, been formed in 18, and Harlech 1936 104 100 4 1937 105 100 5 No. 566, received its warrant in Lodge 165, which had been founded 1938 108 103 5 1939 100 95 5 1719 and thirteen lodges operated in 1895. 1940 100 94 6 1941 106 99 7 in Sligo town and county since then. 1942 106 99 7 In Ireland the Order became by the 1943 103 95 8 1944 114 103 11 1840s an almost wholly Protestant 1945 121 109 12 1946 123 111 12 fraternity as the Catholic Church was 1947 127 115 12 1948 135 122 13 opposed to Freemasonry arguing that 1949 144 128 16 it contradicted Catholic beliefs. Some Source: Sligo Constitutional Club: Account Books, Vol. 2: 1933 to 1954 Protestant Churches also banned (S.C.L., Sligo Constitutional Club, No. 350). their congregations from joining the Masonic Order. Harlech Masonic Lodge However, there was never a restriction It is also fair to suggest that many on Catholics joining the club, and by Irish Catholics may have also been 1 19 there were four Catholic members reluctant to join the Masonic Order as of the club out of a total of ninety- to many outsiders the Masonic Order In 1914 many of the more affluent four. Although membership increased and the anti-Catholic Orange Order Protestant merchant families in Sligo through the 190s, no Catholic names appeared to share similar structures were members of Lodge 20, while were present on the nine-member and rituals. However, on a number many shop assistants were members of committee of the Constitutional Club of occasions in the late 1920s, Arthur Lodge 165.22 This may have been due in 199. However, as can be seen Jackson, the provincial grand master of to the fact that Lodge 20 was an older from Table 2 Catholic membership of north Connacht, and a very successful and more established lodge and a sort the Club continued to increase. Protestant businessman in Sligo town, of social bias had formed with many By 1949 club membership stood argued that the Masonic Order was of the wealthier Protestant members at 144 members, including sixteen not anti-Catholic.20 Jackson argued joining Lodge 20 while Lodge 165, Catholics. The increase in the number that Sligo Masons were also socially as a newer lodge, had a more liberal of Catholic members of the club can active and made contributions to ethos towards membership and social be interpreted as a sign of integration charities and to schools in the county standing. Although more clerks were between Protestants and Catholics. and assisted many people who were members of Lodge 20 than Lodge 165, However, there were still only a not masons.21 Although it appeared most of those clerks were employed small number of Catholic members that the charities and schools assisted in companies owned by the better off who were all either businessmen or by the masons were from the Protestant Protestant businessmen, who were professionals. tradition. also members of Lodge 20. It could also be argued that the Protestant landed names were increase in Catholic membership of the largely absent on the membership lists Constitutional Club could be a result In the early part of the twentieth of both lodges, maybe due to the fact of wealthier Catholics endeavouring century Sligo town was the home of that many landowners were already

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Table 4: Table 5: Average attendance per meeting of Sligo Lodge No 165 in the period 1914 to 1949 Period Average attendance per meeting Aug. 1912 – Aug. 1914 28 Sept. 1914 – Nov. 1918 27 Jan. 1919 – Apr. 1923 36 May 1923 – Aug. 1939 52 Sept. 1939 – Nov. 1949 46 Source: Masonic Lodge No. 165: attendance books, 1912-1949 (Grand Lodge of Freemasons, Masonic Lodge attendance books).

Table 5: Table 6: Sligo Branch Legion of ex-Servicemen, membership in selected years 1919 to 1949 Lodge 165 Yearwas the Members most recently 1919 250 Founding Members of Harlech Lodge, October 1895 established and1926 most active365 lodge in 1927 431 (L-R) Roger Parke, James Chambers, C.B. Tully, T.J. Baily, Jos. Dixon, R. Sligo and therefore1931 seemed400 to have Cooke, E.T. Kell, John Chambers, A. Ward & Alex Munro. attracted the19 35 majority385 of the new 1940 340 members to the1946 Masonic300 order in Sligo. members of the Sligo Constitutional For these reasons1949 it is300 important to Club and they possibly felt that the Numbers joining the two Sligo lodges Source: Sligo Independent, 1919 to 1949 take a closer look its membership. It Club sufficiently fulfilled their social declined in the years before the First Table 3: Numbers joining the two Sligo Masonic Lodges, has Tabeenble 7: Sldiscoveredigo Women’s Branch that of the in Britis theh L egion,period requirements. The Freemasons in World War with an average number of membership in selected years 1929 to 1949 Lodge 165 and Lodge 20, 1910 to 1923 1902 to 1911Year fifty-three Members new members Sligo seemed to have been dominated just over nineYear joining New each members year in the joined, while1929 in the 1period60 January by Protestants involved in business period 19101910 to 1914. During14 the First 1930 134 1911 11 1912 to September1931 1914130 seventeen and the professions from the urban World War the average new members 1912 8 joined. 1932 125 area, and Protestant landowners in joining dropped1913 to fewer8 than five 1933 120 1935 110 1914 6 During the First World War the Sligo may have perceived the Masonic per year. In 1919 twelve joined the 1937 100 1915 5 number of members joining only Order in Sligo as an association Masonic Order in Sligo, in 1920 fifteen 1939 96 1916 4 totalled twelve1946 for the85 four years. more suited to the commercial and joined and1917 in 1921 seventeen5 joined. 1949 80 However,Source: asSl igocan Independent be seen, 1929 to 1949.in table 4, professional classes of the town. It’s The records1918 indicate that5 all the new 1919 12 membership picked up significantly also possible that Freemasonry had members, as well as the old members, 1920 15 in the three years following the First developed a more egalitarian ethos, as were Protestant,1921 and many17 Protestants 1922 7 World War. The number of members opposed to a landowning ruling elite. may have perceived the Masonic 3 1923 6 joining the club during the Civil War Order as an organisation which could Sources: Masonic Lodge No. Lodge 165: declined. However, after the Civil Table 3: preservememb a ershisensep regist ers,of 1910-23 identity and and Masonic Lodge No. Lodge 20: War, the number of members joining Table 3: Numbers joining the two Sligo Masonic Lodges, familiaritymemb duringership regi thesters, 1910-23turbulent time Lodge 165 and Lodge 20, 1910 to 1923 the lodge increased again. of the War(Grand ofLodge Independence. of Freemasons, Masoni c Year New members Lodge membership registers). In the period 1914-49 people were not 1910 14 just joining Lodge 165 in significant 1911 11 1912 8 Table 4: Numbers joining Sligo Masonic Lodge numbers, they were also very active 1913 8 No. 165 in the period 1902 to 1949 members and evidence of this can be Years New members 1914 6 found in the average attendance at 1915 5 1902-1911 53 1916 4 1912-1914 17 meetings of the lodge, as can be seen 1917 5 1915-1918 12 in Table 5. In the two years before 1918 5 1919 10 1919 12 1920 12 the First World War attendances 1920 15 1921 11 at meetings averaged twenty-eight 1921 17 1922 7 members per meeting. By the 1922 7 1923 5 1923 6 1924-1929 35 period January 1919 to April 192 Sources: Masonic Lodge No. 165: 1930-1939 34 the average attendances at meeting membership registers, 1910-23 and 1940-1949 47 increased to thirty-six and from Masonic Lodge No. Lodge 20: Source: Masonic Lodge No. 165: membership registers, 1910-23 membership registers, 1895-1949 May 192 to August 199 average (Grand Lodge of Freemasons, Masonic (Grand Lodge of Freemasons, attendances at meetings increased Lodge membership registers). Masonic Lodge membership registers). significantly to fifty-two. Although

Table 4: Numbers joining Sligo Masonic Lodge 122 No. 165 in the period 1902 to 1949 Years New members 1902-1911 53 1912-1914 17 1915-1918 12 1919 10 1920 12 1921 11 1922 7 1923 5 1924-1929 35 1930-1939 34 1940-1949 47 Source: Masonic Lodge No. Lodge 165: membership registers, 1895-1949 (Grand Lodge of Freemasons, Masonic Lodge membership registers).

2 Table 5: Average attendance per meeting of Sligo Lodge THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 No 165 in the period 1914 to 1949 Period Average attendance per meeting average attendances at meetings in the Legion. Initially the Sligo branch ofAug. 1912wake – Aug.of 1914the War of Independence28 ten years 199 to 1949 had dropped the British Legion held meetings inSept . 1914many – Nov.Catholic 1918 ex-servicemen27 may to forty-six, by 1949 Lodge 165 a plain building on a street namedJan. 1919not –have Apr. 1923wished to be seen 36joining had become the largest lodge in the ‘Waste Gardens’ in Sligo town, laterMay 1923a British – Aug. 1939organisation. Catholic52 ex- province of Connacht. becoming more established in a largeSept . 1939servicemen – Nov. 1949 in Sligo may have46 been Membership of the Freemasons in building on Old Market Street, whichSource: Mlessasonic inclined Lodge No. to Lodge join 165:the atBritishtendance Legion books, 1912-1949 Sligo probably proved beneficial to became known as ‘the Hall’ or ‘the but they(Grand were Lodge still of Freemasons, determined to those Protestants involved in economic Club rooms’.24 rememberMasonic their Lodge fallen attendance comrades books). with and social activities. However, more As can be seen from Table 6, the Remembrance Day services in Sligo’s significantly the Freemasons were legion was quite popular with ex- Catholic Cathedral. important in providing the Protestant servicemen in Sligo in the mid to late membership with a common sense 1920s. On 7 November 1926 over Table 6: Sligo Branch Legion of ex-Servicemen, of cultural heritage and helped to 250 members held a parade from the membership in selected years 1919 to 1949 facilitate a smooth transition from legion’s club in Old Market Street to Year Members 1919 250 Union to Free State. As Catholics did Sligo Town Hall and large services 1926 365 not join the organisation, the Masonic were held in St John’s Church, 1927 431 Order in Sligo was not a vehicle for Calry Church of Ireland and in Sligo 1931 400 25 integration. Many Protestants and Catholic Cathedral. In January 1927 1935 385 Catholics were members of the Sligo there were a total of 41 members 1940 340 Branch of the British Legion. So did on the roll. R.S. Gorman expected 1946 300 the British Legion prove to be an aid membership to be higher in that about 1949 300 to integration between the Protestants 1,000 men from Sligo town and 500 Source: Sligo Independent, 1919 to 1949 and Catholics in Sligo? men from County Sligo had joined the British Army during the First World Table 7: Sligo Women’s Branch of the British Legion, War. 26 An estimation of the number Tablemembership 6: in selected years 1929 to 1949 British Legion of Catholic members of the Sligo Year Members 1929 160 On 0 June 1919 Sligo ex-servicemen branch of the British Legion can be In January 1929 the wives, sisters and 1930 134 formed the Sligo branch of the obtained from those members who daughters19 of31 ex-servicemen130 founded Comrades of the Great War, which regularly attended legion meetings the Sligo19 3Women’s2 Branch125 of the became affiliated with the British and war remembrance ceremonies and British Legion1933 with 160120 members.29 Legion in 192.2 Both Protestant it appears that about 40 per cent of the The women193 5carried out110 charity work and Catholic ex-service men joined legion’s members were Catholic.27 on behalf19 37of ex-servicemen.100 An the organisation. R.S. Gorman was Gorman argued that 1,000 men examination1939 of the membership96 list elected president of the Sligo branch from Sligo town and 500 from the of the organisation1946 indicates85 that most 1949 80 of the British Legion. It appeared county had joined the British forces of the women joining the organisation Source: Sligo Independent, 1929 to 1949. that, following the affiliation of in the First World War. Of the 1,000 were the wives and daughters Sligo ex-servicemen with the British from the town, 282 Protestants and of Protestant businessmen and Legion, the committee consisted of 718 Catholics served in the British landowners who had served during members of prominent Protestant forces.28 A total of 250 men from the First World War. However, about landowning and business families in Sligo town died in the war, of which twenty-five percent3 of the membership Sligo, with an absence of Catholics. forty-three were Protestant and 207 list were Catholics. Membership of However, this may have been due were Catholic. This leaves 29 the organisation dropped steadily to the fact that committee members Protestants and 511 Catholics from throughout the 190s and 1940s as were all officers and many Protestant Sligo town who (if still resident in the can be seen in Table 7. landed and business families in Sligo town) could have joined the British had a long tradition of serving as Legion, so it seems that Catholic ex- commissioned officers in the British servicemen did not join the British Army, but Catholics had dominated Legion in the same proportion as the committee of the Sligo branch Protestants and this may have been due of the Comrades of the Great War the organisation’s strong association before its affiliation with the British with the British connection: in the

1 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

take place within the British Legion.

Conclusion

Table 5: Average attendance per meeting of Sligo Lodge The importance of Protestant fraternal No 165 in the period 1914 to 1949 associations such as the YMCA, Period Average attendance per meeting Sligo Constitutional Club and the Aug. 1912 – Aug. 1914 28 Freemasons was crucial in preserving Sept. 1914 – Nov. 1918 27 a sense of common Protestant culture Jan. 1919 – Apr. 1923 36 May 1923 – Aug. 1939 52 and social activity and in providing Sept. 1939 – Nov. 1949 46 a setting to ease the transition from Source: Masonic Lodge No. Lodge 165: attendance books, 1912-1949 union to Free State. Catholics were (Grand Lodge of Freemasons, always permitted to join the YMCA. Masonic Lodge attendance books). However, they had their own fraternal organisations such as the Catholic Institute, and the YMCA remained RemembranceTable 6: Sligo Branch Day Legion at Sligo,of ex-Servicemen, 1936. Sligo Branch British Legion – Committee a Protestant association. There was & Officersmembership in selected years 1919 to 1949 also the Sligo Trades Club, where it Year Members Front Row - Capt. A. Lyons, R.I.F., Capt. W. Campbell, F.W. O’Hara, Maj. Perceval I.G., seemed that working-class Protestants 1919 250 Maj. S. Myles,192 T.D.,6 Capt. G.36 5Hewson R.I., President, B.L.S.B., M. Conlon, Mayor of Sligo, and Catholics mixed to some extent, Chairman, B.L.S.B.,1927 Maj. G.A.431 Benson, R.A.M.C., Capt. H. C.G. McCormack, R.A.O.C., although there appears to have been W.A.G. Middleton,1931 R.N.V.R.,400 H. Ross, A.S.C. M.T., M. Moffatt, V.C. Leinster Regiment, only a very small number of Protestant 1935 385 Capt. M. Kelly, Connaught Rangers, M. Scanlon, CRs, T. Gray, R.N., Sgt Maj. A. Burnside, members. There also seems to have CR, Capt. R.S.1940 Gorman, R.I.F.,340 J. Farrell, R.F.A., J. Wallace, CR, Capt. E.J. Shott, P. 1946 300 been a consistent good relationship Coleman, CR, Ald J. Fallon, Hon Sec B.L.S.B., CR, J. Gilmartin, CR, J Shannon, CR. 1949 300 between Protestant and Catholic Source: Sligo Independent, 1919 to 1949 Sligo in the 190s. clubs, in particular the YMCA and the Catholic Institute, which held Table 7: Sligo Women’s Branch of the British Legion, The Legion supported British competitions in order to raise funds membership in selected years 1929 to 1949 Year Members involvement in the Second World War and organised joint charitable events. 1929 160 and during the war the British Legion The members of Sligo Constitutional 1930 134 continued to help ex-servicemen and Club had a tradition of involvement in 1931 130 facilitated young men joining the 1932 125 unionist politics and the club was very 1933 120 British forces. Despite the changed popular with Protestants. However, 1935 110 political situation and Ireland’s Catholics were beginning to join the 1937 100 neutrality in the Second World War, organisation in the 190s and by the 1939 96 the sons of Protestant landowners and 1946 85 1940s they formed almost 10 per cent 1949 80 businessmen in Sligo were still keen of the membership of the club. This Source: Sligo Independent, 1929 to 1949. to join the British forces in 199 and does suggest that integration was the wives of Protestant landowners taking place, although those Catholics Table 7: held social events to raise money for who joined the club were financially those suffering in Britain as a result of better off and were possibly joining At the A.G.M. of3 the Sligo Men’s the war. the club in an attempt to identify with Branch of the British Legion on 24 Although the British Legion a Protestant club that had traditionally February 191 a national organiser provided a sense of community for all been frequented by wealthier for the British Legion, Major J. Tynan ex-servicemen, Protestants dominated Protestants. described Sligo as ‘one of their best the organisational committee and The Masonic Order provided branches – one of the very best in Catholics did not seem to join in a common sense of security and the British Legion’.0 However, proportion to their numbers, especially familiarity for Protestants and proved despite the best efforts of the Legion’s considering the large number of to be an association for Protestant organisers, a decline in the number Catholic men who had served in the businessmen. Membership increased of members was experienced by the First World War. However, integration over time and especially in the men’s branch of the British Legion in between Protestants and Catholics did turbulent period from 1919 to 1921.

14 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

The organisation continued to be 7 Sligo Champion, 24 March 1949. popular after 1921 and attendances Sesquicentenary Supplement, 1836– 28 Ibid., 27 December 1919, at meetings remained high. As a 1986 (Sligo, 1986), p.57. 8 October 1921, 27 October 1928,  8 result of Catholic doctrine opposed S.I.. 17 March 192. November 1928, 17 November 1928, 9 to its members joining the Masonic Ibid., 9 January 1926, 1 1 September 1947. 29 Order, Catholics in Sligo may not January 195, 0 January 1949. S.I., 25 January 190. 10 Ibid., 0 May 1925. 0 Ibid., 28 February 191. have been comfortable doing so and 11 Ibid., 15 May 1926. Freemasonry did not prove to be a 12 Ibid., 20 June 191. setting for integration. 1 Ibid., 2 November 195. However, the British Legion 14 Ibid., 29 April 1944. offered a vehicle for integration 15 Ibid., 12 May 1945, 21 May between Protestants and Catholic ex- 1949. servicemen in Sligo. The organisation 16 Report of the proceedings of seems to have been particularly popular the Grand Orange Lodge of Ireland with Protestant servicemen and their containing the registered Orange wives; Protestant businessmen and Lodges, 1875 (Grand Orange Lodge landowners controlled the committee of Ireland Library, Belfast, Grand of the legion, and the organisation Orange Lodge reports). 17 Report of the proceedings of gave the Protestant community in the Grand Orange Lodge of Ireland Sligo a strong sense of belonging to a containing the registered Orange wider imperial community through the Lodges, 1910 (Grand Orange Lodge symbols, rituals and commemorations of Ireland Library, Belfast, Grand associated with the legion. However, Orange Lodge reports). about 40 per cent of the membership 18 Sligo Constitutional Club was Catholic and many Catholic ex- (SCL), membership list 1882 (SCL, servicemen were keen to work hard Miscellaneous Lists, LIS 025). for the legion and attend annual 19 Sligo Constitutional Club, Remembrance Day services. register of candidates, 1905–29 (SCL, Clubs/Societies, CLU 008). 20 SI, 5 June 1926, 11 June 1927. (Endnotes) 21 Ibid. 1 T. Brown, ‘Religious 22 Masonic Lodge No. 165: minorities in the Irish Free State and membership registers, 1914 (Grand the Republic of Ireland (1922–1995)’, Lodge of Freemasons, Dublin, in Forum for Peace and Reconciliation, Masonic Lodge membership registers); Building Trust in Ireland (Belfast: Masonic Lodge No. 20: membership Blackstaff Press, 1996), p.227. registers, 1914 (Grand Lodge of 2 F.S.L. Lyons, ‘The minority Freemasons, Dublin, Masonic Lodge problem in the 26 Counties’, in Francis membership registers). MacManus (ed), The Years of the 2 S.I., 5 July 1919; Ibid., 6 Great Test, 1926–39 (Cork: Mercier October 192. Press, 1967), p.100. 24 Ibid., 1 November 1926.  T. Kilgannon, Almanac and 25 Ibid. Directory of County Sligo (Sligo, 26 Ibid., 29 January 1927. 1907), p.72. 27 Ibid., 6 October 192, 8 4 Sligo Independent [SI], 17 November 1924, 15 November 1924, May 1914.  October 1925, 1 November 1926, 5 T. Kilgannon, Almanac and 29 January 1927, 2 July 1927, 25 Directory of County Sligo (Sligo, January 190, 1 February 190, 21 1907), p.71. February 191, 28 February 191, 6 S.C., 16 May 1914; 2 May 22 April 19, 4 March 199, 6 April 1925; 11 May 195; 21 Apr. 1945; 21 1940, 15 November 1941, 6 July 1946, May 1949. 15 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Page from Minutes of Annual General Meeting of the Shareholders of The Ballymote Electric Lighting & Town Improvement Co Limited, 23 November 1931

John Coleman

Before the advent of the Street used to pump water ESB, Ballymote had its own sourced in Keenaghan up electricity supply generated to the power house where from a small power station it was used to dampen the in the town. The page from anthracite. There was a large the minutes record that in concrete tank in the market 191/2 the chairman of yard filled with anthracite. the company that provided Jim recalls that the electricity the service was the GP, generated was of very low Dr Pat O’Hart (whose son voltage – not sufficient to Frank succeeded him as give a significant shock – only GP). Others present at the capable of powering bulbs meeting included Very of 20 watts. Only sufficient Revd T. H. Canon Quinn power was generated to PP (Tom Quinn, uncle of provide light for the streets, the late Batty Cawley and houses and businesses – there the younger of two brothers were no appliances such as who were PP in Ballymote cookers etc. The wire into in succession); Francis the house came in alongside McDonagh; Thomas (Tom) a window and there was a Regan (builder & merchant meter located just inside & father of the late John the window. Jim remembers Thomas Regan); J. Benson that bills for service were (draper – my grandfather); paid to Joe D Healy at J. V. Kerr (chemist – his a window in the market shop later became Harry house where payments were Horan’s). The secretary also received for services was J. Healy (Joe Healy including weighing of – uncle of the late Joy potatoes and other goods Meehan (nee Healy) & on the weighbridge which her sister Pauline Tighe). is still at the market house. W. J. Lipsett (father of Jim remembers that the the late Nuala Droughton) electrician who installed the while not present Minutes of the meeting system throughout the town was re-elected as a director. generation of electricity in the town and maintained it thereafter was a The meeting took place in the commenced in the early 1920s and Mr Kelly and my mother recalls that company’s office in the ‘Power House’ remembers his father giving away the he was married to Annie Hart, sister – more usually known as the Market oil lamps which were no longer needed of the late Canon Peter Hart PP, and House, which is still intact today. It in their pub/shop. The source of power that they lived upstairs above the is noteworthy that one of the items was a Blackstone gas engine and the Power House. George Heuston looked discussed at the meeting was ‘the gas was generated by anthracite. Jim after the boiler. Jim recalls that the Shannon scheme’. The ESB had been remembers a huge engine flywheel Heustons had lived in a house between established in 1927 and the hydro- which took some physical strength the Market House and the old RIC electric station at Ardnacrusha on the to start. The generator was used to barracks which was destroyed when Shannon near Limerick was completed charge batteries, of which there were the barracks was burned down during in July 1929. Gradually over the about 20, and this in turn guaranteed the troubles (the barracks was of course following years the ESB extended its continuity of supply. A bit of quick rebuilt as a bank and until recently service to towns around the country internet research has supported Jim’s was the Garda Barracks). My mother replacing the 00 different suppliers, clear recollection - Blackstones tells me that he later lived in a cottage including 15 local authorities. The were a well known manufacturer in Carrownanty. Jim remembers ESB expansion to rural electrification based in Stockport in Cheshire Tom Bolger who is mentioned in took place from 1946 to 1979. where they had been building the minutes and recollects that he Jim Kielty of O’Connell Street gas engines since the late 1890s. might have been from Waterford or recounted to me his vivid memories Jim remembers that there was a little Wexford and whose wife’s sister lived of the independent operation in pumping station beside the milestone at Rockingham – probably in a gate Ballymote. Jim recalls that the outside Dockry’s bakery in O’Connell lodge there.

16 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 66o South -Travels in Antarctica Stephen Flanagan

I arrived in Ushuia in southern Argentina in February of this year to visit the Antarctic, something I have dreamed about since I first heard of a land of icebergs and snow as a boy. The ship to take me there was called the Expedition, and it would sail for two days across the Drake Passage, the most ferocious stretch of water in the world. The Expedition was not unlike a hotel – the corridors were wide and carpeted and well lit, and there were lots of staff working on board. There was a library with large windows and a few hundred books on the Arctic and the Antarctic, and near the front of the ship was a large assembly area with comfortable chairs around low tables, all of which were bolted to the floor. Directly above that area, on deck five, Mother Nature’s ice sculpture. Another Zodiac is just visible through the arch. was the dining room. Photo by Stephen Flanagan In the briefing folder in my cabin Aitcho Island, one of the South creatures. Only a moment or two after it said that in a storm on a ship there Shetland Islands. Excitement was I had reached land one of them came are two kinds of things: things that are high. Aitcho is a tiny volcanic island, over to investigate what was going on the ground and things that will be hardly land at all. Up ahead on the on. I stood still and he had a peck at on the ground. I thought that sounded shore we could see thousands of my boots, then checked to see if my great. So I may have been the only penguins walking around or lying waterproof pants were edible. Finding person on board who was disappointed down or running after each other in they were not, he had a look up at me to find that during our crossing the their consistently comical way. It was directly. Apparently seeing little of Drake Passage was almost completely cold, but not painfully so. interest, he continued on about his calm. I have always wanted to see a As we got closer we made the penguin business. storm at sea, and passing through the interesting discovery that penguin It was coming towards the end of Drake without seeing one was like colonies stink. From several hundred breeding season during our visit, so spending a month in Galway without metres out we could smell the stench the young penguins were on the verge feeling a drop of rain. of what the guides delicately called of independence. They are born and That is not to say, though, that the ‘guano’. Later on I saw that when a grow up on land, and then start to ship did not roll. ‘Calm’ for the Drake penguin excretes, the stinking viscous moult. Once all their hair is gone they Passage is not the same thing as ‘flat’. substance travels approximately three are ready to enter the sea and fend for I spent many happy hours in the library feet from the originating orifice. If the themselves. They’ll stay in the water watching the windows dip down to the penguin keeps walking throughout for eight months, until it’s time for water and then swing up to the sky. this process, the end result is a line on them to breed in their turn. When I saw Every few hours a particularly large the ground where the first section is them, many of the young penguins swell hit us and the ship took a much perfectly straight before it tails off in were nearly fully moulted but still had bigger swing over and back than it wavy curves. Depending on what the patches of hair, often in unexpected normally did. On average, I was told, penguin has been eating, the line can places. I saw several Mohawks. every seventh wave is particularly be white or red. Aitcho Island curves east to west, large. The first colony we saw was of and we walked out to the western Just after four o’clock on the third Gentoo penguins. They are roughly edge to where there are elephant seals. afternoon the small inflatable boats 60cm tall with a characteristic orange The ones we saw were still adolescent called Zodiacs started to leave the beak. They are intensely curious but were already massive creatures. Expedition for the rocky coast of 17 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

they looked at us looking at them. A few days later we went on a Zodiac cruise around what our tour guide called an ‘iceberg graveyard’. Many icebergs gather there due to the vagaries of the currents, and it was a special place. There were hundreds of icebergs of different sizes and complexity. They are acted on by wind and water over time, and the forms made me think of great broken cathedrals of whiteness, graceful and pure, completely unlike anything I had ever seen before. For the second half of our trip around the graveyard it first got cold and then got very cold and then it started to snow, and I got some hint of what it was like for Shackleton and Scott and Amundsen Penguins and the frozen mountain vastness. Photo by Stephen Flanagan and the other Antarctic explorers of the Heroic Age, as the books call it. They were about three metres long and the mountains behind them Later that afternoon the clouds and a metre across at their thickest receded backwards into mist. It was opened for a short period and the sun diameter. Elephant seals can weigh impossible to get a photograph that shone, a bright contrast to the mostly over two tonnes when fully grown, captured the subtlety of the light overcast skies we had been under. In though thankfully they can’t move and shade. Sometimes there was a the sunshine we saw the mountains very quickly on land. On the walk over sound like a distant gunshot as the ice of the peninsula in the distance, some to them we saw old whale bones, their shifted under pressure, and the sound of them over 4,000m, light playing original owner long deceased. The rib of the ice falling into water was like on the brightness of the snow before was about the size of a telephone pole, a great waterfall that flowed only for the clouds closed in again. It made and we saw vertebrae the size of the a moment, thunderous but audibly me think of a camera flash that lit up stump from a large tree. liquid. Turning to the sea, I could see something beautiful just for an instant. When I looked out the porthole the small pieces of ice no bigger than your On our second-last day the destination following morning the first thing I saw hand, then pieces about the size of was the old British research station at was a small iceberg. We were in the your head, and then on up to icebergs Port Lockroy, now a museum. During Antarctic proper. We landed at a place the size of houses and office blocks. World War II the British set up several called Cuverville Island. On the way Some of the bigger ones were carved stations in the Antarctic to keep an eye from the ship to the shore in the Zodiac and moulded by the wind and rain in on the Germans. They were worried we pushed our way through a field Rorschach shapes. I saw an anchor that the Germans were using the of small bits of floating ice, with the and a plane and a raised fist, and in the Antarctic as a base for U-boats. Out occasional room-size iceberg requiring minds of the others there must have of that grew scientific research, and us to detour around it. The landscape been a thousand more. it was at stations like Port Lockroy of the island was breathtaking. The next morning we landed on that the hole in the ozone layer was Glaciers ran down from the mountains Petermann Island, another desolate initially identified. to the sea, and sometimes ice fell with place of rock and ice and penguins. But Port Lockroy was abandoned a crash to the water below, sending It was colder than anywhere we had in the mid-1960s and fell slowly into waves in every direction. The ice and been before. In the near distance was disrepair. People came and looked snow were sculpted and twisted with a steep hill, the top covered in cloud, at it and forgot to close the doors. the wind and the contours of the land, and on landing we had to walk across The windows got broken. Penguins and in places where the ice was under rocks like stepping stones to get to moved in. Penguins, as we have pressure it was a bright, shining blue. shore. There was a colony of Adelie discussed, have a gift for producing I hiked with a group to the top of penguins on the island. Their heads are and distributing guano. The building a hill on the island, struggling my entirely black, without the bright beak was not a pleasant site or sight. way through the deep snow. Looking of the Gentoo or the white patches of People complained to the British around from there, the tops of the the Chinstrap. They are not as active government. The government agreed nearest mountains were lost in cloud, or curious as the Gentoo, and mostly that Something Should be Done,

18 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 in that wonderful way the British Deception Island, and it was a fitting jeans. While wearing just a t-shirt the sometimes do, and a non-profit trust end. From the sea floor a volcano wind was bitterly cold, but it didn’t focused on Antarctic matters was reaches up in the region of 4,000 seem to feel much colder on bare skin. given money to put things right. metres, but only the top few hundred There were a few other people getting The initial plan was just to tidy it are above the waves, and they form ready at the same time. I turned to up a bit, but the project grew in scope the island. In the deep geological past them and said ‘Let’s go!’ to find and eventually produced what we saw the volcano erupted and then seawater they had already gone, and so short there. The main building was about flowed into the cone, or caldera, and was their dip in the water they were the size of the traditional Irish national we can only guess at the magnitude already on the way out. So I picked school, but with lower ceilings and and magic of what that event looked my solitary way through the crowd divided into five or six small rooms. like. Today what we see is a ring of people huddled in their coats and They have restored everything to of mountains with narrow beaches scarves and hats and gloves and stood much the way it was in the 1950s, at their feet almost completely and looked at the water. I had the so the kitchen shelves had tins of encircling a patch of sea. The circle presence of mind to hand my camera food and original products from that of water is roughly two miles in to one of the people there and ask them era. There was a very old packet of diameter. The entrance is between to take a few pictures. And then I put Bovril in a cupboard in the hall, and a cliff on one side and a high spit of my head down and ran. I made it three Lifebuoy soap in the bathroom. There land on the other, and collectively steps into the water before I dived. were no ropes and nothing was behind they are called Neptune’s Bellows. It was astonishing. They had told glass, so it felt real and immediate. It had been a topic of much me that sometimes the shock of the Four women ran the station, each conversation the previous evening cold makes people involuntarily take on a four-and-half-month voluntary that the narrow, stony beaches offered a breath underwater, and that was why stint, and my enthusiasm was possibly a chance to go swimming in Antarctic some of the sailors were standing by spotted as one of them came over to waters, and I had said (possibly with to pull people out if necessary. But I talk to me. We were standing in the the benefit of a glass or wine or two) felt nothing like that. It was nothing bar, a large room that deserved deep- that I was definitely going to do it. like anything I have ever felt before, voiced conversation and pipe-smoke, On the way to land in the Zodiac I an awareness of water and cold and and she pointed out the gramophone. realised it was the coldest day of our being part of it for a moment, an It was an original item, festooned with tour. Everyone was hunched down in unsustainable thing by its nature. ‘Do not touch’ signs. She opened the multiple layers of warm clothes. When Almost as soon as it had happened it polished wooden lid and wound it up I thought of the swim I felt nervous, was over. I stood in the water, which with a handle from a cluttered drawer and excuses rose like bubbles. was up to my thighs or so, and a high- beneath, then put on a record. I did When we landed the wind was strong pitched sound of cold escaped me. not know the song but it was just as and ripping. On the beach are eight or The assembled crowd laughed and I would have hoped a song from that ten abandoned buildings from the time cheered, as they did for everyone. era would be, upbeat and written of the whalers, falling down from age When I got to the shore I found for dancing, the sound scratchy and and the elements. We were told they my feet and legs were numb. Feeling wonderful. The girl told me that a were off limits, but you would need came back in my legs in a minute man in his 60s had been there a few to have great faith in your own luck to or so, but it took several minutes weeks before me and when she played go in even without the warning – they to get feeling back in my feet and it for him he declared it to be a foxtrot, look as though not much is keeping toes. And in fact changing back into and danced with her around the bar. them upright, and some are already my clothes was the most unpleasant It was a glorious moment to hear collapsed. The buildings are rough and part of the whole thing – my fingers it, like eavesdropping on the past. functionally built, and surrounding were not working quite as usual We sailed over the next day or so to them are rusted tanks and pipes and so zips and buttons were hard, and Paradise Bay, a wide stretch of water gears and bits of machinery. It’s a place the rocks and grit of the beach were which was speckled with floating that could spark a thousand stories. painful to stand on as feeling returned. ice and icebergs, and around which The hour appointed for swimming That special moment was the spiritual mountains rose up in an almost- arrived. The non-swimmers were end of the Antarctic trip. The trip back complete circle. Some of the icebergs gathered in the lee of a large metal across the Drake Passage was as calm were the size of an apartment complex. construction shaped like an angular as the way over, so again I was denied The overall effect was crazy, the half-moon. The opening swimmers a storm at sea. I’ll see it yet. But even Angelina Jolie of bays; an exposition were stripping down. I didn’t think as I was getting off the ship back in of beauty so extreme it almost about it much as I took off my jacket, Ushuaia, I was wondering how I might becomes mundane in its remoteness. then my hat, then my scarf. I already find a way to go back. Our final stop on the cruise was had my swimming togs on under my

19 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 The Gillan Longcars Eugene Gillan

The earliest mode of transport between Rosses Point and Sligo was by boat. The first of these vessels was a type of hooker. In the Sligo region they were called longáns. The last of these was named Thorann and it carried passengers from Rosses Point to Sligo, also picking up people at Locán Ballyweelin and at Ballincar. With the progress of road transport the Gillan family purchased carriages called longcars. They obtained a licence in 1780 to carry passengers from Rosses Point to Sligo, also to Drumcliffe and the Donegal Road. It specified that the name of the owner would be displayed on the right hand side of the shaft in copper. A Gillan longcar taken at the hotel around 1902. The driver is Tommy Gillan and It is interesting to note that in the the other man is Willie Kivlehan. The girl behind the bicycle is Sarah Logan. 1750s a meeting was held in Rome to decide on what side of the road Independence an incident took place. With the coming of the Dunlop tyre transport would travel. The Pope William Gillan was conveying a they purchased two new buses, a could not attend and sent a Cardinal British Marine who was stationed at Chevrolet and a Commer. These were in his place. It was agreed that all Rosses Point Coast Guard station. painted blue. wagons or coaches would travel on the While travelling at Locán Ballyweelin Today the last members of the right hand side. However in Britain he was stopped by two IRA members, Gillan family living in Rosses Point because of the religious difference who took the Marine down to the shore are Geraldine Gillan Regan and her they decided to use the left side, the and questioned him for information. family at Erin Cottage. side we are now still using. He refused and tried to escape and In 1860 the Gillans had two longcars they shot and injured him so William and three horse and traps as they were took him to the Marine Barracks. called. They built a small hotel at Next day the Black and Tans from the entrance to the village. They also Sligo demanded that William identify erected a building at the back of the the IRA members but he refused. They old dwelling now called Erin Cottage. threatened to burn down the Gillan This two storey building consisted hotel and property and also a house of two sections, one for stabling occupied by a family called Bartly the seven horses and the other was because one of them was a sailor and accommodation for working men. suspected of smuggling arms to the Upstairs one section was for storing IRA. The officer in charge of the oats and fodder for the horses and the marines prevented them from burning second was for a dance hall. There was the buildings but they did burn one also a large rain water tank as there was of the longcars and the old boat The as yet no piped water available. They Thorann which was on the shore. were fortunate in having two wells on In 1918 the Gillan family purchased their land. With the advancement of a bus, a ‘Leyland Lion’. This had a motor transport changes were taking canvas hood which could be folded place but horses were still in use until back in good weather. There were the 1920s. doors along the sides and it could In 1921 during the War of carry 28 passengers. It had solid tyres.

20 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 The Parish Mission in the 19th Century

Padraig Feeley

For Irish Catholics the country saw the population seriously early nineteenth century brought decline and by 1870 the Irish church many changes. During much of was not only able to meet its own that period the powerful voice of clerical needs but was increasingly Daniel O’Connell the “Liberator” providing priests for other countries. resounded throughout the land and The low ratio of priests to people was brought a flavour of democracy into a major factor in evaluating the state the lives of the Irish people for the of the church in Ireland in the first first time. Charismatic leaders and half of the nineteenth century and the founders of religious congregations failure of the clergy consequently to arose, who not only made available provide adequate religious instruction new forms of devotional life but Thady Connellan 1780 - 1854 for the increasingly rural population were also geared towards providing assembled for Mass and confessions The section of the population most for the needs of the Catholic and often for some instructions, neglected by the pastoral situation population; however most Catholics constituted an important substitute for was that class that made up a quarter were more often indescribably poor the Sunday Mass in the parish chapel. of the Catholics that occupied the very and the rapid increase in population To attend the station the faithful had bottom of the pyramid. Some insight made their lot more desperate. to travel no further than a neighbour’s into their condition was provided in a The peasants at the bottom end house and they did not need to be as long affidavit (Nov. 1843) submitted of the social scale constituted the well clad as for church on Sunday. For by Thomas Chisholmer Anstey to majority of Catholics. Sharp regional the bishops and clergy of the time the Propaganda in Rome complaining differences existed in Connacht and fulfillment of the Easter duty appears bitterly about the pastoral neglect by Ulster. Catholics were too poor to to have been the criterion by which the Irish clergy of their people (The build chapels in the way that the more they judged the religious adherence Devotional Revolution: Emmit Larkin prosperous areas of the country could. of the faithful. The reports regularly American Historical Review 1972). Attendance at Sunday Mass was prepared by the parish clergy for the In the course of a twelve thousand much less regular then it was later in bishop’s visitation never mention word indictment, Anstey told the the century. Factors existed that may Mass attendance but list the number story of having been invited by a local help to explain the low Sunday Mass who have made their Easter duty gentleman in the diocese of Elphin attendance; many of the churches (The Catholic Church in the Age of to attend the first communion of the were small and the parish was often O’Connell by Donal Kerr). children who had been catechized too poor to extend them or build new In 1842 the diocese of Elphin claimed by his daughter at the charity school ones. As late as the 180s, and later that twenty-six slated chapels had been he had funded in his parish “and in parts of Connacht and Ulster many erected. Since 1825, Achonry diocese this affirmant accordingly “ Anstey Masses were celebrated in the open recorded new chapels erected in every reported, “attended at the function and air at Mass-Rocks. In some dioceses parish in the 10 years from 181 to saw many young and old having tapers priests were forbidden to say more 1841. Prior to 1845 the principal lighted in their hands”. He continued: than one Mass. Often too, people had challenge facing the church was that “and these the said lady informed me not got appropriate clothes to go to of finding sufficient priests to minister were first communicants, and she Mass. In the 1850s a distinguished to an ever increasing population. The said the parents and grandparents and French visitor, Fr. Parrraud recorded bishops were desperately trying to other adult and aged relatives of the that in Co. Donegal 4,000 people address the problem but despite the children had taken the opportunity went barefoot in winter, that rarely provision of almost 800 seminary of her coming to instruct the latter had a man a warm shirt, and there places in Maynooth and the Irish to receive instructions themselves were families where five or six grown Colleges in Rome, Paris and Louvain with a view to receiving their first women had between them only a the church was fighting a losing battle communion; amongst others an old single dress to go out in. They would in its attempts to provide an adequate man then kneeling at the rails who take it in turn to go, as often there was number of priests to minister to the only a fortnight before had been all only one Mass on Sunday. people. The impact of the famine his life ignorant of the real presence The practice of stations, where all and the subsequent exodus from the of Christ in the Eucharist, having the people in the neighbourhood never heard of the existence of such 21 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 a doctrine. Nevertheless he and all impaired their pastoral effectiveness. between the people and the pure word the rest were always Catholics as had The more baneful of these activities of God. It was generally accepted their ancestors before them and had was the result of an increased by Catholics that proselytizing received baptism in the church, and incidence in clergy misbehaviour activities existed in prisons, schools, many had been married therein and all which included avarice, drunkenness, orphanages and in particular in the meant therein to live and die”. immorality, insubordination and dreaded workhouses. These years were marked by religious controversies and public disputations. At Easkey in November 1824 a public discussion took place in the old Catholic chapel between three priests and four ministers on an agreed subject namely: “The propriety of the indiscriminate reading of the Bible and right of private judgment in its interpretation and making it the sole rule of faith”. The proceedings lasted for two days and attracted an audience of 600. Little good came from these “spiritual cockfights” as Richard Whately, Anglican Archbishop of Dublin, called them except the deepening of National Synod of Thurles 1850. Encouraged parish missions religious animosities. The attempts of the evangelical Anstey concluded with the following division. The more salutary included: missionaries locally to make common observation: “and she said that there efforts on their part to provide chapels, cause led to some curious partnerships were many such cases as these and it schools and charity for the poor as but none was more remarkable than was a common thing for the people ministers of God. Also demanding on that of Thaddeus (or Thady) Connellan to pass from birth to burial without their time was their deep commitment and Albert Blest. Born a Catholic any other sacraments than baptism in to Catholic Emancipation and the in or about 1780, Connellan was a infancy, and the last sacraments at the repeal of the Union. All these extra- native of Skreen and became one of hour of death; with perhaps marriage curricular activities, both baneful the outstanding scholars of his day. In in the interval, all which was owing to and salutary, had the effect of further 1807 he came into contact with Blest, the neglect of the priests. Nevertheless reducing the time and energy they the Sligo-born Baptist proselytizer, the parish priest of that parish derived could devote to more strictly pastoral and agent in Ireland for the London for himself, without counting what his and religious obligations; it also left Hibernian Society; not only did they curates received, out of the parochial the vulnerable amongst their flock become close personal friends but revenues, an income of not less as the open to what the Catholic clergy it was through Blest’s influence and affirmant believes something more denounced as proselytism. exertions that Thady abandoned the than four hundred pounds per year.” The New Reformation to convert faith of his ancestors and embraced Anstey’s charge of the wilful neglect the Roman Catholics to Scriptural the Protestant faith. Like more on the part of the Elphin clergy of Protestantism, was a crusade to converts he adopted extreme views which he was a witness however is accomplish what the first Reformation and devoted all his diverse talents mitigated by the fact that the ratio had not achieved and the expression and endless energy in the pursuit of of priests to people in Elphin at the “they took the soup” is still very much his newly found religious beliefs. time was among the worst in Ireland alive in the West. Each denomination Predictably one of the major tasks at one to ,50 according to historian was convinced that theirs was the only assigned to him was the compilation Emmit Larkin. What has not been path to Heaven. of Irish text books. However when appreciated moreover is the appalling No less than five societies were Connellan wished to extend the range pastoral work load at the period in founded in Ireland to distribute bibles of publications available to the Irish pre-famine Ireland; this was increased and religious tracts to Catholics. natives to include books on husbandry and aggravated by a whole series of Zealous missionaries of the new he was altogether at odds with those additional activities and commitments Reformation vigorously preached the in control of the Irish branch of the on the part of the clergy, some baneful gospel in villages and on fair days; London Society. The reformation and others salutary, that further denouncing the priests as standing they desired was to be confined to the

22 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 realm of the spiritual. of Armagh in 1849. Three years be brought to him two by two. The From the very beginning of the later he was transferred to Dublin. ceremony was on this occasion very Protestant missions the Catholic One of his first acts following his tedious; the patience of the people clergy alerted the hierarchy; Peter Dublin appointment was to endow gave way. Apprehending this before Fitzmaurice parish priest of Clifden the Vincentian community with a hand we engaged the services of the wrote to Daniel Murray, Archbishop thousand pounds to fund their mission Christian confraternity which we had of Dublin (182 – 52) “Proselytism in Dublin. A short time later he began already instituted in the parish, to was never so rampant as now. There to lay plans for an assault on the form a cordon across the entire width is a staff of nineteen peripatetic Protestant proselytisers in the west of of the church in order to keep back the Bible readers (or Jumpers) under Ireland. pressure and admit those who were to the command of a bankrupt landlord The first formal parish mission was be confirmed according as the bishop of Clifden doing all the mischief in given by the Irish Vincentians Father in could received them but the difficulty their power. The funds of the British 1842 in Athy. It was scheduled for four Association are perverted to their weeks; it extended for another three. unholy purpose, viz the changing of Many remained all night in the church bad Catholics and of course worse and away from their homes for five Christians, into good hypocrites.” and six days awaiting an opportunity The Catholic hierarchy realized of confessing. The mission that that they had to mount an equally established the Vincentians’ national aggressive campaign to combat the reputation however was that given efforts of the Irish Church Missions. in Dingle on the eve of the Great Famine. In reporting the Dingle mission Father Dowley wrote to his superior in Paris: “The inhabitants of this district have been for several years Paul Cullen, Archbishop of reduced to extreme poverty because Dublin and later Cardinal of the persecution of the landlords and was in maintaining the cordon. The their agents”. The demon of heresy he people pressed forward and the charged, “has been fully employed to confraternity men pressed them back destroy the faith of these unfortunates: until unable to resist by any other gifts, houses, money were all offered means, they had actually to use sticks to those who would turn Protestant”. and clubs in the struggle, and what Dowley added grimly “a thing was scarcely to believed, blood flowed unknown in this country since the copiously from the blows inflicted, introduction of heresy, some hundreds the confraternity men feeling they had of these ignorant poor sold their souls a duty to perform even in so terrible to the devil by outwardly renouncing in extremity and we who attended the the faith of their fathers.” bishop right and left had to witness During the Dingle mission, it was with his lordship how the poor people discovered there were some one fought their way to come forward. thousand adults who had not been Such a scene is only to be imagined confirmed. During the confirming amongst a poor rude people urged John MacEvilly, Bishop of Galway of these adults, there occurred onward by their religious enthusiasm 1857-1881 and Archbishop of Tuam a most remarkable incident that to offer as one may say violence to 1881-1902 speaks volumes about the emotional heavens” McNamara concluded. response of the people of the parish In the following twenty five years Some other method of evangelizing mission. “Even at the distance of not only were virtually all the the people would be attempted. In time”, the leader of the Vincentian thousand parishes in Ireland visited France the chosen instrument of the mission, Father McNamara reported again and again but even a fourth Church for reconverting the people many years later in his Memories: “I time. The cumulative effect was a after the desolation caused by the recollect so well the difficulty there remarkable national religious revival French Revolution was the Church was in maintaining order amidst that profoundly affected both the Mission. such a mass of people as they came character of the Irish people and the Paul Cullen had served as Rector forward. The bishop remained seated course of history. of the Irish College in Rome in the within the sanctuary enclosure and The establishment of Protestant 1840s and was appointed Archbishop the candidates for confirmation had to missions in Connemara during the

2 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 famine saved the lives of thousands. Franciscans. Bunninadden 1891 another reason”, the cardinal pointed The poverty stricken and starving (May) Oblates. Curry 1894 (Mar) out, “For great improvement the flocked to their schools and religious Redemptorists. Mullinabreena 190 Catholic clergy soon after Catholic services to obtain food. The Catholic (Jan-Feb) Vincentians. Attymass 1904 Emancipation to give ‘mission’ clergy was aghast at the threat to their (Jan-Feb) Vincentians. Collooney throughout the country. Almost flock and responded with an aggressive 1906 (May-June) Redemptorists. every parish in Ireland must have had campaign of opposition. Keash 1908 (Nov) Capuchins. Gurteen a mission since that time”. These In 1857, after a request from the 1908 (Nov) Capuchins. missions the cardinal insisted, “were new bishop Galway John MacEvilly, The missioners made great efforts to the cause of the greatest improvement the Vincentian Fathers carried out a consolidate the gains; they encouraged in the morals of the country and mission in Oughterard. Following the people to enroll in confraternities consequently of the utmost benefit to the mission MacEvilly wrote “There and sodalities and other pious society”. is not a single vestige of the accursed associations. The most impressive and According to historian Emmet Larkin: system of souperism existing amongst sacred hours came for the parishioners the loss of the Irish language and the them even in Oughterard which most at the closing ceremonies. In a great attendant loss of the traditional culture certainly could have been lost to the number of parishes, during the last of the common people is crucial Church of God were it not for the day a large stone mission cross with to understanding the astonishing glorious mission of the Vincentian a suitable inscription was raised with upsurge in religious devotion between Fathers”. Further MacEvilly stated great solemnity in the church yard. The 1850 and 1875 and that long before that not a single proselytizing school parish’s mission cross erected in Sligo the famine the Irish had become was open. As if to demonstrate the stood on the site of the old chapel at cultural emigrants having “to move extent of his victory MacEvilly added the junction of Cranmore road and the in their minds before actually moving that even the rector’s gate keeper and Nun’s Hill. It was moved a number in space” and that the Irish people family were received “into the Church of times and is now sited on the south who were aware of being Irish were and admitted to confirmation”. side of Saint Ann’s Church. gradually losing their identity, and this MacEvilly’s enthusiasm was One of the most effective techniques is what accounts for their becoming somewhat premature as the problem for the continuance of religious pious and practising Catholics in the in one form or another dragged on practice and devotion was having a generation after the famine. for a number of years. Finally in Solemn Office and Requiem Mass Missions were first and last to 1866 the bishops seemed pleased said during the mission for all the raise the moral climate in a parish with all his efforts: he wrote “Thank deceased parents, relatives and friends by recalling the faithful to worthy God, at present Oughterard is free of of the parish. The realization that spiritual values. If it is true, as in proselytism”. their loved ones could also partake of politics, “that all religion is local” In March 1854 the Jesuits arrived the benefits of the mission stirred up then the following, recorded in in Sligo town; the mission extended the most intense feeling among the “the Catholic Directory of Ireland” over a period of three weeks. The participants. If the experience of a (Dublin 1866), gives validation to the ‘Sligo Champion’ reported: “The parish mission is multiplied by more claim: at a Redemptorist mission the altered demeanour of the people, than some two thousand times between previous year in the pro-Cathedral in visible to even a casual observer is in 1850 and 1900 the magnitude of the Dublin nearly £800 was received as itself a proof, and a convincing one, religious revival became obvious. restitution money and forwarded to of the good they have affected. We Cardinal Paul Cullen testified before the parties from whom it had been understand there has been an utter the Powis Commission on elementary stolen. demolition for the present of these education in Ireland in 1869; he was secret societies which were the parent asked if he did not think that the great *********** stems from which sprung guilt and moral improvement in recent years crime”. in Ireland was the result of the works Further Reading: The following is a list, by no means of the National Board of Education Soupers and Jumpers by Miriam Moffitt, complete, of early missions in some established in 181 (The National The History Press Ltd, 2008 parishes in Co. Sligo: Sligo town Schools). The cardinal replied that he 1854 (March) Jesuits. Tourlestrane did not think the great improvement Christianity in Ireland Revisiting the 1867 (May and June) Jesuits. Banada in morality and knowledge had been Story Edited by Brendan Brodshaw and 187 (May) “little mission” Jesuit. to any considerable extent the Board’s Daire Keogh, Columba Press, 2002 Ballymote 1876 (Sept) Redemptorists. work. Rather he thought, that the Tubbercurry 1886 (Sept) Oblates. Catholics themselves had done a great “Memories of the Congregation of the Coolaney 1889 (Winter) Franciscans. deal by building convents, orphanages, Mission in Ireland, England and Scotland” Mullinabreena 1889 (Winter) schools and churches, “but there was by Father Thomas McNamara.

24 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Colonel Oliver O’Gara 1694 – c. 1761 in Europe

Maura O’Gara-O’Riordan

James Oliver O’Gara was born in Paris France numbered five battalions of the rank of brigadier. Occasionally in 1694, three years after his parents infantry and one horse battalion while the term commander was used in place went into exile on the defeat of the Spain had five battalions of infantry of major. Adjutant was attached to a Jacobite army of James II. Like his and two battalions of dragoons.4 military officer who sometimes acted father and grandfathers, he and two Up to 1718 all the regiments were as administrative assistant to a senior of his brothers would follow military listed under the name of their most officer. careers. Archival sources, army senior officer but from that year When the armies were not records, correspondence and pedigree forward, the regiments in Spain were at war, an officer could be listed as charts dating from the eighteenth given a permanent name. The seven a reformado or graduado, which century, have made it possible to regiments were named the Edinburgh meant that he was on half-pay and trace his progress through the army and Dublin dragoons, and the five unemployed, sometimes described as ranks, and to provide an account of an infantry battalions named the Irlanda, being on reserve.8 A regiment was association with relatives in Ireland at Hibernia, Limerick, Ultonia and normally commanded by a colonel, this time. Waterford. occasionally a lieutenant colonel. Each Colonel Oliver O’Gara and Records of the officers of regiment was divided into companies, Lady Mary Fleming resided with other all seven Irish regiments serving commanded by captains. army families in exile at St. Germain, under the king of Spain are held in James Oliver O’Gara, was outside Paris from the winter of 1691- the Archivo General de Simancas in the second-born son of Oliver and 2. Oliver served with the Irish Guards Valladolid, Spain.5 The documents Mary.9 From the date of his baptismal of James II as lieutenant colonel but consist of the reviews undertaken record in December 1694 to 1715, by 1696 had been appointed colonel by the Spanish military authorities no account of his early life has been in the Queen’s Regiment of Dragoons and include references to the three discovered. Throughout his lengthy in France, a rank he held for a number O’Gara brothers, John Patrick, James military career in the Irish brigades, of years. By 1718, he had retired on a Oliver and Joseph Arthur. John’s James Oliver was recorded simply as pension.1 He died some time between name appears once in the regiment of ‘Oliver’.10 1719 and 1727. Limerick on the reserve list in 1718, Oliver’s name first appeared Eleven baptisms are recorded after which he enlisted in the regiment in a review of the regiment of Colonel for the children of Oliver and Mary of Irlanda.6 The regiment of Irlanda Francis Wauchope in 1715, where he in the church of St. Germain.2 Four has entries for John and Joseph and was recorded as a capitan reformado,11 of their six sons survived. Three of the regiment of Hibernia for Oliver a captain on reserve and on half- these, John, James Oliver and Joseph, only. pay. Colonel Wauchope had been first enlisted in the Irish brigades in Descendants of Irish emigrant appointed to the regiment in 1715 France but went on to serve in the soldiers, officers and civilians filled to replace Colonel Walter Bourke Irish brigades in Spain for most of vacancies in the continental Irish who had died in the early months of their military careers. The fourth son, brigades. Members of former Gaelic 1715. His death occurred very soon Charles, did not serve in the army but chieftain families and descendants of after Bourke’s regiment had been was employed by Leopold, Duke of Norman titled families enrolled in the transferred from the service of France Lorraine. officer section of the armies of France to that of Spain. Walter Bourke had The Irish brigades were and Spain as the authorities in Europe been a friend of the O’Gara family. formed initially in France following acknowledged their birthright; in Spain He had served with Oliver senior in the exile of thousands of Jacobites an individual officer was regularly the 1689 Irish parliament of James II after the 1689–91 war in Ireland had described as ‘gentleman’7. The lowest as a representative for Co. Mayo and ended. In addition, Jacobite soldiers rank in the officer’s group appears to held the rank of lieutenant colonel in and officers who had opted for exile have been that of sergeant, described the Jacobite war in Ireland. Bourke in France were later incorporated into as a non-commissioned military was sponsor at the baptism of Oliver’s the Spanish army. A number of Irish office. The position of sergeant was sister, Anne Marie Elenor, in 1707.12 brigades were established in Spain followed in the hierarchy of the armed Wauchope’s regiment was after 1700, the year in which Philip forces by ensign/cadet, lieutenant, given the permanent name Irlanda of Anjou was appointed Philip V of captain, major, lieutenant colonel, and in 1718.1 Prior to receiving its new Spain. By 1716, Irish brigades in colonel with a very rare reference to name the regiment was formed from

25 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 the regiment of the Queen of England and men of the Irish brigades in Spain brothers Bernard and Michael O’Gara, which had been established in France were killed or injured. The regiment natives of Co. Mayo who were to accommodate the Irish troops who of Irlanda also took part in the Italian described ‘as very close relatives’21. had come to France in 1691. The first campaign and among the seriously Their father Charles is reputed to review undertaken for the regiment injured was Oliver’s youngest brother, have moved from Sligo to Mayo. It Irlanda was in 1721 but Oliver’s name Joseph, who held the rank of captain is generally held that Charles was was not included, as he had enlisted in that regiment.19 a son of Fearghal O’Gara, patron of with the Irish regiment of Hibernia by The Royal Archives at the Annals of the Four Masters22. this time, also in the Spanish service. Windsor record correspondence from Both Bernard and Michael studied As Oliver was listed in Wauchope’s an ‘O Gara’ to a Mr. Edgar in 1745.20 in France, Bernard at the Jesuit regiment in 1715 he may have been College in Douai and Michael at the in the regiment of Irlanda for a short Mr. Edgar Esq., 28 February 1745 Irish College in Paris. Bernard was period but no review of Irlanda was appointed archbishop of Tuam in taken before Oliver’s name appeared Sir 172 and served there until his death in the regiment of Hibernia in 1720. [two words illegible] goodness you in 1740. Michael lived in Spain for Oliver O’Gara enlisted with are pleased to favour our Royal many years and was rector of the Irish the regiment of Hibernia between masters subjects with, emboldens me College in Alcala, Spain from 1728 to 1718 and 1720, possibly in 1719 to pray you to remitt the inclosed to its 1740.2 During Michael’s residency in when a new second battalion appears address Captn. O Gara, who did not Alcala, his three cousins, the brothers to have been formed.14 In the first receive the letters I wrote to him by John, Oliver and Joseph O’Gara, were review of the regiment of Hibernia the postway. serving in the Irish brigades in Spain. in 1720, Oliver was noted as bearing I shall also most humbly pray you Michael was appointed archbishop of the rank of captain, a position he held to make my most loyal and dutyfull Tuam in 1740 following the death of through five further reviews up to respects acceptable to his Majesty and his brother, Bernard. Shortly before and including 177.15 Hibernia was his Royal highness the Duke of York Bernard died, he had a stone altar the first Irish infantry regiment to and can averr the honour of obeying erected in memory of his father at the be organized in the army of the king yr. Commands, shall ever more be Augustinian friary at Ballyhaunis, Co. Philip V of Spain. Hibernia was to be coveted by Mayo. The following inscription officered exclusively by Irishmen. The Yr most humble and obed. Servt. appears on the stone PRAY FOR Royal Warrant of Hibernia expressly O Gara Y SOULS OF CHARLIS O GARA ordains that they were to be a means AND FAMILY FOR WHOM THIS of employment for young Irishmen of The signature ‘O Gara’ TOMB WAS MADE BY HIS SON noble family.16 on this letter of 1745 bears a close BER. AB. OF TUAM AN. DM. Prior to adopting the resemblance to a signature on a 24 permanent name of Hibernia, the letter that was written in 1756/7 1739. regiment was known as the Castelar which suggests that Oliver was the There is documentary regiment and was commanded by the signatory of the two letters. Oliver evidence that correspondence may Patino family members, who enjoyed was a captain, or possibly a major, in have been exchanged between Oliver the title Marqués de Castelar of the regiment of Hibernia at that time. O’Gara and his second cousin, Spain. The 1745 date suggests that the item Charles O’Conor, the antiquarian of Oliver’s name appeared in referred to as being ‘inclosed’ was Belanagare. Charles explained the reviews of the regiment of Hibernia destined for Joseph O’Gara, a Captain blood relationship between Oliver up to 1759, each entry recording a in the regiment of Irlanda wounded at and himself on two occasions in higher rank. In 1747, he was listed Velletri the previous year. James Edgar correspondence with his friends. He as commander/major, in 175 as was confidential clerk to Prince James refers to a Colonel O’Gara being lieutenant colonel, and in 1759 as Francis Edward Stuart, son of James quartered in St. Sebastian and colonel. Oliver was promoted to the II. James Francis Edward, signing as describes him as his ‘nearest relation rank of colonel in the regiment of the Prince of Wales, had been sponsor in this kingdom, his father and mine 25 Hibernia in 1755,17 and was recorded at the baptism in 1700 of one of Oliver being brother and sister’s children’ . as the fifth colonel of the regiment18. senior’s sons, Francis Edward, who The Colonel O’Gara referred to in The regiment fought through the had died as a child. this correspondence could only have whole Italian campaign from 1742 been Oliver as he alone of the three to 1748, which included the battle of ************ O’Gara brothers in military service in Camposanto in 174 and the battle of It is very likely that Oliver had some Spain had reached the rank of colonel Velletri in 1744, where many officers contact with his Irish cousins, the by 1756. John died with the rank of

26 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 lieutenant colonel some time after has gained himself the esteem and my father’s aunt, was born in the 177, and Joseph, who was noted as applauses of all his Acquaintances house where I am now writing, and a lieutenant colonel in the review of abroad tho.h he seemed to me to be a her sister was the mother of the late 1761, did not receive his commission little bashfully reluctant to undertake Colonel Oliver O’Gara, who died in as colonel until 1762, six years after this journey. St. Germaine en Laye. I only mention O’Conor’s letter was penned. My good wishes for him and this from an apprehension that The content of O’Conor’s Employment I have … the Master … probably you are a stranger to your letter of 1756 related to the question of procured … the facility of obtaining relation to the present colonel, who I ownership of the original manuscript this licence for him, to procure you hear is in a very [languishing]state of of the Annals of the Four Masters the satisfaction of seeing him tho.h health.’0 which had allegedly been presented to I bereave myself of his Company for the patron, Fearghal O’Gara, Oliver’s some time. My best respect I pray The ‘present colonel’ referred great-grand father, in 166. It has been to all yr dear family and command to is not identified but could not have suggested by at least one historian evermore, been either of Oliver senior’s two that Colonel Oliver senior brought Dr. Cosn. eldest sons, John or Oliver, as their the original O’Gara manuscript of the yr. most respectful, deaths had been recorded by March Annals to St. Germain in 1691.26 humble Servant, 1761,1 eight years earlier. The ‘present Oliver O’Gara and the ‘O’Gara. colonel’ could therefore only be Oliver MacDermots of Coolavin were related It can be assumed that the senior’s youngest son, Joseph who through a number of associations. The ‘O’Gara’ who wrote the letter to was appointed brevet colonel in 1762. strongest relationship in the seventeenth Roger’s father was Oliver O’Gara The appointment as a brevet colonel and eighteenth centuries appears to who had been appointed colonel of was a special commission to a higher have been through the O’Conors of the regiment of Hibernia in 1755. The rank without the corresponding pay. Belanagare. Oliver’s granduncle, tradition in Gaelic chieftain families The recipient was usually an officer Charles O’Conor of Belanagare, was was that the eldest surviving male who had given outstanding service to a first cousin to Hugh Mac Dermot of of the senior line used his surname the country in which he served. Shruffe, Coolavin. Therefore, Oliver only when signing documents. His Two extant Mac Dermot had a number of distant Mac Dermot signature almost certainly indicates pedigree charts were signed by cousins, including Roger Mac Dermot, that his older brother John, whose members of the O’Gara family. The who was recorded in the regiment’s military records ceased at the review first was signed in 1719 for Roderick, review of 175 as a cadet in the Irish of 177, was by then deceased. As son of Brian Mac Dermot and nephew regiment of Hibernia.27 This same this letter is filed with the letters of of Hugh Mac Dermot and is filed review had listed Oliver O’Gara as Charles O’Conor, the antiquarian, it is with the manuscript of the Annals of lieutenant colonel. Roger was granted possible that it was he who contacted Connacht in the Royal Irish Academy. leave from the army and came to visit his cousin, Oliver O’Gara, with a Roderick was a second cousin to his parents in 1757.28 He carried a request for a recommendation on Colonel Oliver O’Gara senior. The letter home to his father, Charles Mac behalf of their third cousin, Roger, signature on Roderick’s chart appears Dermot, from ‘O’Gara’ which is filed for acceptance into the regiment of to be F. Gara, though the letter ‘F’ is with the letters of Charles O’Conor of Hibernia. indistinct. No suggestion has been Belanagare in the library of the Royal put forward as to the identity of the Irish Academy, Dublin.29 The letter ************* signatory.2 reads: In a letter to his father’s second The second Mac Dermot cousin, Brigadier Thomas O’Conor, pedigree signed by an O’Gara is of Most honorable Sr. written about the year 1769, Charles greater significance. In his History The departure of yr. most worthy son O’Conor explains his relationship to of Catholic Archbishops of Tuam, Mr. Roger Mac Dermott / whom, I Thomas and appears anxious to show written in 1882, Oliver Burke really esteem and love very much to how they were both related to Colonel wrote: Archbishop O’Gara’s place see you and pay you his filial duty Oliver O’Gara senior as he, Charles, of residence is unknown, and the last procures me the occasion of assuring had been made aware that Colonel document that bears his signature is you and yr. noble and worthy family Oliver senior’s son was in poor health. a certificate dated the 8th November of my best respects: after so long an … 1738, authenticating a pedigree of the absence from you I really believe MacDermots of Coolavin, Princes of it will be agreeable to you to see so I rejoice in the honor I derive from Moylurg’. deserving a Son, who by his good my relation to your family. Your behaviour and sweetness of temper great grandmother Dorothy O’Conor, The original document4 which Burke

27 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 consulted contains three signatures. in the Spanish Service’, The Irish Nacional, Madrid, 9r. Bernd. AR Tuam 8th Nov. 1738. Genealogist, 5:4 (1977), 41-2. 22 N. Ó Muraíle, ‘The townlands [Bernard O’Gara, Archbishop of 9 C. E. Lart, Jacobite Extracts, of Bekan,’ in M. Comer and N. Ó Tuam] Registers of Saint Germain-en-laye, Muraile (eds), Béacán/Bekan: portrait Johannes O Hart, Ep. 9th April Anno 2 vols (London, 1910-12),vol. i, p. of an East Mayo parish (Ballinrobe, Domine 1739. [Bishop of Achonry] 112; M. O’Gara-O’Riordan ‘Births, 1986), p. 41. James Kildarenis 22nd Oct. 1739. baptisms and deaths in the exiled 2 P. O’Connell, The Irish [James Gallagher, Bishop of Kildare] O’Gara family after the Jacobite defeat’ College at Alcala De Henares 1649- The Corran Herald, (2009/2010 ), No. 1785 (Dublin 1997) pp 40-1. Oliver O’Gara died between 42, p. 26. 24 M.J. Heaney, ‘Bekan December 1759 and the 1 March 1761, 10 To avoid confusion, his father churches, clergy and religious,’ in John had died after 177 and Joseph will be referred to as Oliver senior M. Comer and N. Ó Muraile (eds), in c.1770. The fourth brother, Charles throughout this article. Béacán/Bekan: portrait of an East O’Gara, Count of the Holy Roman 11 H. Gallwey, ‘Irish Officers Mayo parish (Ballinrobe, 1986), p. Empire, died in Brussels 15 May, in the Spanish Service’, The Irish 70. 1777. So ended the association of the Genealogist, 6:2 (1981), 207. 25 C. Coogan Ward & R.E. Ward offspring of Colonel Oliver O’Gara l2 C. E. Lart, Jacobite Extracts, (eds), The Letters of Charles O’Conor senior with the armies of France and Registers of St. Germain-en-laye, vol. of Belanagare, 2 vols (Ann Arbor, Spain, with civilian life in continental ii, p. 110. Michigan, 1980), i p. 17. Charles Europe and with their cousins in 1 H. Gallwey, ‘Irish Officers O’Conor’s paternal grandfather, also Ireland. in the Spanish Service’, The Irish named Charles O’Conor, and Mary Genealogist, 6:2 (1981), 204. O’Conor – Oliver O’Gara’s paternal 14 H. Gallwey and J. Garland, grandmother – were brother and (Endnotes) ‘Irish Officers in the Spanish Service’, sister. 1 Stuart Papers, Royal Archives, The Irish Genealogist, 6:4 (198), 26 P. Walsh, The Four Masters Windsor Castle, RA SP/Box /89 461. and their work, pp 26, 27, 29. Spring 1718, p. 11. By permission of 15 H. Gallwey and J. Garland, 27 H. Gallwey and J. Garland, her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. ‘Irish Officers in the Spanish Service’, ‘Irish Officers in the Spanish Service’, 2 C. E. Lart, Jacobite Extracts, The Irish Genealogist, 6:4 (198), The Irish Genealogist, 6:5 (1984), Registers of St. Germain-en-laye, 2 466. 602; D. Mac Dermot, MacDermot vols (London, 1910-12); M. O’Gara- 16 A. MacDermott, ‘Irish of Moylurg, (Nure, Manorhamilton, O’Riordan ‘Births, baptisms and Regiments in the Spanish Service’, 1996), p. 54. deaths in the exiled O’Gara family The Irish Genealogist, 2:9 (1952), 28 D. Mac Dermot, MacDermot after the Jacobite defeat’ The Corran 260. of Moylurg, (Nure, Manorhamilton, Herald, (2009/2010 ), No. 42, pp 25- 17 M. Walsh, ‘A Galway Officer 1996), p. 255. 9. of the Spanish Navy, JGAHS 26: 29 Royal Irish Academy Stowe  J.C. O’Callaghan, History of (1954/5), 2. MSS Bi1 letter no. 80. the Irish Brigades in the Service of 18 A. MacDermott, ‘Irish 0 C. Coogan Ward & R.E. France, (Dublin, 1869), p 88. Regiments in the Spanish Service’, Ward (eds), The Letters of Charles 4 Ó Ciardha, Ireland and the The Irish Genealogist, 2:9 (1952), O’Conor of Belanagare, 2 vols (Ann Jacobite Cause, p. 150. 267; H. Gallwey and J. Garland, ‘Irish Arbor, Michigan, 1980), i pp 271-2. 5 R. Wall, ‘Irish Officers Officers in the Spanish Service’, The 1 Micro film exp. 1085, in the Spanish Service’, The Irish Irish Genealogist, 6:5 (1984), 601. Alcántara, Archivo Historico Genealogist, 5:4 (1977), 41. 19 Micro film exp. 1085, Nacional, Madrid, 50r. 6 For an account of John’s Alcántara, Archivo Historico 2 D. Mac Dermot, MacDermot army career see M. O’Gara-O’Riordan Nacional, Madrid, 5r; H. Gallwey, of Moylurg, (Nure, Manorhamilton, ‘Changing circumstances for the ‘Irish Officers in the Spanish Service’, 1996), p. 2. O’Gara family and Jacobite residents The Irish Genealogist, 6:2 (1981),  O. J. Burke, History of of Saint- Germain’ The Corran 207. Catholic Archbishops of Tuam Herald, (2010–2011), pp 75–9. 20 Stuart Papers, Royal (Dublin,1882) p. 19. 7 A. MacDermott, ‘Irish Archives, Windsor Castle, vol. 26, 4 I am grateful to Madame Regiments in the Spanish Service’, no. 2. By permission of her Majesty Felicity MacDermot at Coolavin The Irish Genealogist, 2:9 (1952), Queen Elizabeth II. House, Monasteraden, Co. Sligo, who 259. 21 Micro film exp. 1085, allowed me access to this document. 8 R. Wall, ‘Irish Officers Alcántara, Archivo Historico

28 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Keeping the Peace in Keash 100 Years Ago

John Higgins

The Royal Irish Constabulary was any time to inspect the men and the a mere matter of form. The duty list the right arm of the state 100 years barracks. was put up on the wall each morning ago in Ireland. Its members had After breakfast the sergeant made by the sergeant but nobody took the responsibility for keeping the peace an entry in the diary showing that the least notice of it. The Barracks Orderly and suppressing sectarian riots and Barracks Orderly paraded at 8 am and kept the diary in such a way that the agrarian disputes. They collected that the General Parade took place at 9 entries agreed with the contents of agricultural statistics and performed am. In less than an hour both men and the slip on the wall. The patrolling of a variety of duties relating to food barracks were spick and span. the District was reduced to a fine art. and drugs, weights and measures, Each year a “gathering” was held There were four Justices of the Peace explosives and petroleum. They also in the area and thousands came from in the locality and it was an unwritten acted as census enumerators. the adjoining parishes. Tinkers also law that “one of us would walk or Recruits to the force were practically came in great numbers. These festive cycle past each Justice’s house at all farmers’ sons. On appointment a assemblies often ended in large least once a week. This would show recruit took an oath of loyalty to the scale drunken fighting. Extra police that we were active and should any Crown and after six months was given would be drafted in to cope on such question of dereliction of duty ever the right to police. occasions. arise these Justices would be powerful Constable Jeremiah Mee, a native of The public house in Culfadda and witnesses on our side. The fact that Glenamaddy, Co Galway, gives a vivid the one in Carrowcrorry were about we were seen prowling around on the account of his time in the RIC Barracks two miles away and all patrols led occasions of fair mornings would be in Keash in his memoirs “J Anthony directly or indirectly to one or other of discussed at many firesides that night. Gaughan 1975”. Stationed in Keash these which must have been the best The sergeant called this kind of duty from February 1911 to August 191, inspected public houses in Ireland. ‘prevention of crime’. In reality it was he tells how he often wondered why Mee tells us “Word was received good propaganda and would keep the a police barracks should be situated towards the end of my first week in people’s minds off the true fact that along the roadside in such an out of Keash that the Inspector was coming we were doing practically nothing, for the way place. The only other houses on his quarterly inspection. The news indeed there was little for a policeman in the area were the curate’s residence had the same effect as the presence to do in rural Ireland to do in those and the local pub. Apart from the pub of a hawk on a flock of chickens. The peaceful days.” beside the barracks there were two servant almost turned the place upside Each constable was also supposed other pubs in the district, and beyond down. Buckles, belts and other pieces to do at least two patrols each month keeping a watchful eye on these there of equipment were polished and during the hours between midnight was nothing whatever to do in the line shined, and each constable was given and 8 am. In Keash those who were of police work. an Act of Parliament to study. detailed to do these patrols went to A sergeant and three constables were The great day of inspection came at bed. However the entry for the patrol stationed here and on his first day in last. We came out of the ordeal with was not made until someone took a the barracks one of the constables flying colours and got a good entry spin around next morning to make set about preparing his tea. The local for our smart turn-out and for our sure all was well. curate called in that evening, a pack answering in police duties. Before The sergeant was an expert at of cards was produced and the curate the Inspector had turned the corner varying the wording of reports in the joined in a game of “Nap”. of the road after leaving the barracks patrol book. He always made some The following morning the barracks on his way back to Sligo, the barracks special note such as “saw a light in servant gave him a full account of the servant was allowed to go home and the window of Ruane’s pub, inspected history of the area. She told him that the sergeant led us down to Kelly’s the premises and found all regular”. the sergeant tended to be a bit grumpy pub where we had a lengthy post- On one occasion when his conscience in the mornings but later on in the day mortem on the inspection”. was troubling him about these false he would be the nicest man in Ireland. With the inspection over, “home entries, he consulted the local curate She then called the other members to rule” was re-established. Constable to see if his actions were sinful. The come down to breakfast and warned Mee tells us about his cycle trips curate replied “No, it’s not a sin but them that as it was after nine o’clock around the District. There was no it will be serious if you are caught at the District Inspector could arrive at crime in the District and patrols were it”.

29 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

The constable gives a very humorous Barracks, as well as cases of stout The following night they were guests and interesting account of doing the and several bottles of whiskey from of honour at a social in Keash hall. “Tillage Census” in the District. This the publicans in the area. Mee tells Constable Mee says “As we entered census had to be made in June each us “We were glad to accept them as the hall a passage down the centre year, every house visited, the stock genuine tokens of friendship and not was cleared and a guard of honour counted, and full details of tillage, in any way calculated to be bribes”. brought to attention as we walked grazing land and shrubbery recorded. Constable Mee was transferred to towards the stage”. The band played Constable Brown was designated to Listowel in Co Kerry in August 191. “The Soldier’s Song” and a huge accompany Constable Mee on this It was there that he was involved in the cheer went up that echoed to the caves work, and as he had done this job police mutiny and being disaffected of Keash Hill. It was seven years since previously he knew how to complete deserted the force. Realising that they Mee had left the area and many of the it in the shortest possible time. could expect little mercy if picked up young strapping members of the IRA Jeremiah in his own words says “I by the British security forces, he and in the hall that night were only small soon realised the value of Brown’s his companion Constable Donovan boys when he left. During the next advice and acquired the art of doing decided to return to Keash where they twelve months many of these lads the maximum amount of work with both started their careers. distinguished themselves in various the minimum amount of labour”. A They travelled by train and finally units of their Sligo brigade. Backed neighbour usually gave the constable arrived at Ballymote station where by the world’s largest empire, the all the information they required on there were six armed policemen all British forces at that time held every everyone’s farm, number of hens, of whom they knew at a glance. The stronghold in the country. Standing amount of land, etc., in their townland. policemen however did not pretend between the people and this army In due course a Blue Book was issued to see them and the two constables were some 2,000 young men many of by the Department of Agriculture went up the town to Begley’s public whom were mere boys in their teens. showing the tillage returns for Ireland house for refreshments. There they Never in the history of the world, it and one can only smile at such round were welcomed with open arms and seemed, were two armies so unevenly figures as “Total number of hens soon found themselves in the centre of matched, and yet this young army by 7,000,000”. half a dozen members of the IRA who guerrilla warfare tactics compelled Constable Mee tells us that the were delighted when they intimated the Crown forces to negotiate a Treaty people, all of the small-farming class, to them that they wished to join the in 1921 which Michael Collins stated were as pleasant as the surroundings, movement. They were then taken by was a stepping stone to obtaining the and very sociable. For a week car to Keash and spent the night in full freedom of Ireland. before Christmas, presents of geese the home of Alec McCabe where they and turkeys were handed in to the were treated like princes. “God Save All Here” Kathleen Fitzmaurice

Nowadays the “ping” of my doorbell man glad of a meal and some clothing. A mash. Youngsters learning to milk a cow causes me to stop and wonder who chimney sweep would come occasionally were given a ponny to strip the last dregs of my caller may be. Is it someone with a and on Thursday during Lent a fish-monger milk. The toddler in his tea-chest playpen genuine reason to call? I hope so, not arrived on a push bike with a large basket amused himself for hours banging on the someone sussing out the place with in front and you bought your Friday dinner ponny with a wooden spoon. A ponny a further unannounced call in mind. from him. Nobody worried about the dust could be anchored in the gríosach on the Who would call at my home in bygone and germs collected along the road – a fried hearth and used to boil an egg and, dare days? The rate-collector called twice herring was “simply delicious”. I say it, it often warmed a “sup of milk” annually and a special effort was made Tinkers came regularly, the men to mend for the baby. It was the simplest and least to have cash on hand to pay. It would be cans and the women to beg for “a wee expensive utensil and it served us well. a slur to have to defer payment. At other grane of tay” or “a fistful of flour”. They Only the sight of a messenger with a set times a neighbour came to collect the sold tin cans and porringers, popularly telegram sent a shiver down our spines. The priest’s dues. The pedlar carrying his pack called “ponnies”. The ponny was a green envelop usually meant bad news and of haberdashery – pins, needles thread, versatile utensil. It was used to measure there was relief all round when it proved to etc., came once in a while as did a beggar- out milk for a calf and meal for the cow’s be otherwise. We were never lucky enough

0 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 to get a telegram saying we had won a big square of lino in the middle and a varnished Visitors arriving unexpectedly could prize in the Irish Hospitals Sweep. border all around. In the houses of the better cause panic to the woman of the house, Now we come to the “ramblers” who off there might be floral wallpaper on the because at the first hint of commotion always found the back door “on the walls. Otherwise walls were distempered, “himself” found an urgent task out of latch”. It might be just one man whom we sometimes in two colours, one above and sight of the house. If she were lucky recognised by his whistling as he neared one below separated by a frieze of border enough to have some liquor left in the the back door. He used the usual “God save paper. The window had lace curtains and aforementioned bottles it saved the day. It all here”, sat and chatted, exchanged local inevitable a flowering pot plant on the bought time for a young family member to gossip, had a bit of supper with us, then lit window stool. My family favoured a lily but speed to the local shop for a pan loaf, some his pipe and was on his way. geraniums and aspidistras were also much sliced ham and a Gateau Sponge Cake There might be five or six men coming in demand. There was a sofa, or should I or Swiss Roll. Many’s the woman who to play a game of “25”, staking a penny a say a “chaise longue”, by the wall and two blessed the man who made the Gateau. game and maybe a “tanner” apiece for the horsehair filled armchairs complete with But when visitors had made their plans last game by which time the hearth fire antimacassars by the fireside. known in advance great preparations were was reduced to griosach. Once in a way The fireplace was an open grate with made. It was essential to light a fire in the there would be a “round of music” from hobs which were shone with black lead parlour well in advance lest the jackdaws a local fiddler or flute player. One or two in pre-Zebo days. In summer the fireplace had located a nest in the chimney and of the men would “take the floor” and lost its identity when it was filled with blocked the flue. The fire also cleared give a turn at sean-nós dancing, the only fresh green moss and festooned with ferns. out the dank, musty air from the room. dancing style they knew. Gramophones But the mantelpiece was the eye-catcher. On arrival there would be hearty greetings came on the scene in my locality in the Pride of place was given to two china and exchanges and much hugging and late 1920s. People would gather to listen, dogs, a prize from some local fundraiser. complimentary remarks about the healthy starry-eyed, to recordings made in the US There were knick-knacks, little ornaments appearance of all and sundry. Drinks were by talented Irish musicians like Michael inscribed with “A Present from Bundoran” served, accompanied by biscuits (usually Coleman or James Morrison. Vocalists or “Souvenir of Knock”. There might Arrowroot) for the ladies to nibble with like John McCormack, and later on Bing be a clock, an heirloom and usually at a their Port. The repast might be a “meat tea”, Crosby, were popular too. This might standstill. There would be some photos of a home reared chicken roasted and livened prompt the local “tenor” to give his own fairly recent origin. This was all set off by a up by some tomatoes. Salad did not feature rendition of some ballad or other. Young mirror hanging above. on menus in my young days. Some version musicians often learned new tunes from The real pictures were hanging in heavy of the Gateau appeared again and maybe these recordings and this influenced their frames around the walls, Grandad and tinned fruit and custard as dessert. Children style of playing. Grandma on their wedding day, a piece of were strictly forbidden in the parlour and Later on, a house with a radio, or tapestry worked by Aunt Johanna half a in any case they had a much better time left “wireless” – the term then used, was a century ago, and a picture of Wolfe Tone or to their own devices, feasting on any left- centre of attraction. People came to hear Daniel O’Connell and later of JF Kennedy. overs that came their way. the news and the weather forecast was There was a sideboard, or cabinet in As I grow older I am always happy to of great interest, especially to farmers. A one corner. This contained all the best have people call to see me and I appreciate good forecast was also a bonus to a local tableware used only on special occasions. their concern for me. But, dear friend, if festival. There were two drawers, one for cutlery you plan to call to call on a dark winter’s During World War II people followed and one for table linen. If you reached evening, please give a “buzz” in advance!- the progress of the conflict with great right into the back of the cabinet you’d interest – and anxiety if family members or likely find a half-empty, or should I say, neighbours were in the forces. a half-full bottle of Port Wine, a small But the day that really mattered was the bottle of Redbreast Whiskey and maybe third Sunday in September when people dregs in a lemonade bottle. Drinking listened enthralled to the one and only glasses and various ornamental jugs and Michael O’Hehir bring the All Ireland glass dishes were left on the cabinet. Football Final to life for them. A wobbly “what-not” occupied Then there were visitors, people who came another corner and held big, unread and through the front door and were ushered unreadable, volumes that had come from into that special place, the Parlour. Every God knows where. The dining table was in house had a parlour. Sleeping space might the centre of the room with chairs pushed be cramped but the parlour was de rigueur. in underneath. A handmade much prized The average parlour was really a standard rug covered the hearth. No fireplace was sort of room. It had a boarded floor with a complete without a floral fire screen.

1 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Charles O’Conor 1710-1791 Murtagh Corcoran

Charles 0’Conor was born at the property of his great grand father, in Irish. In 1724 he went to Balengare Knockmore, Kilmactranny, on Jan. 1st Fearghal O’Gadhra, who was patron for the first time, and that same year 1710. He was to become one of the of the Four Masters. Bishop O’Rourke their houses at Knockmore were most able, distinguished, and patriotic died in 174, a horizontal slab with an burned. Still, the whole family came men in the Ireland of his day. Though engraving of a mitre, crozier, and missal back for the winter 1725-26, while he descended from the Royal house of covers his grave in Creevalea Abbey. and a Mr. Wall were there in the winter O’Conor, who gave Ireland eleven High Terence McDonagh’s wife Eleanor of 1726-27. His diary of Sept.4th 1729 Kings, and on his mother’s side from was an aunt of Bishop O’Rourke, and reads “I haven’t been at Kilmactranny the O’Rourke’s of Breffni, his father his sister Mary O’Conor. Terence, for two years from today”. He appears Donougha Liath (Denis the Grey) was the Great:Counsellor is credited with to contradict himself a few days later, a poor man living in a mud-walled regaining the O’Conor lands, but by his entry for Sept 9th being “Learning house, when his son Charles was born. the time Denis regained possession music from Michael McKeon this day Charles’s paternal grandfather, and in 1720, Terence was dead for seven last year at Kilmactranny”. We can uncle fought on the losing side in the years. He may have instigated the legal take it that he finally left Knockmore Willamite War, and lost their lands and proceedings which was eventually in 1727, he would have been seventeen property. His mother Mary O’Rourke’s successful in1720. Lord Kingston years then; we know from his letters father Dermot was also on the losing used whatever influence he had in that he visited his sister and .cousins side; he emigrated to France, and was favour of O’Conor who was reputed the McDermottroes at Alderford. killed at the battle of Luzara in 1702. to walk barefoot from Kilmactranny Much later he described attending They lost their lands and property to Dublin to fight the law case. Mass in a cave as a youth. He did not and this resulted in the degrading Charles was the eldest of six sons and say where the cave was: it is taken poverty of Denis and Mary 0’Conor. three daughters. His father Denis was to be in the vicinity of Balenagare His uncle Terence or Thady described as the heir to nothing, and though it is just as likely to be near O’Rourke had a great influence on the worked as a ploughman for 1 shilling the blessed well of Lugmore beside young O’Conor, supervised his early a day. He said to his sons “Never be the townland of Carricknagrip education, and encouraged him’in the impudent to the poor, boys, I was the where he attended his first school. love and pursuit of the Irish language, son of a prince, but you are the sons Charles was sent to Dublin in culture, and customs. He was a of a ploughman”. Charles received his 1727 to the Academy of Mr. Walter Franciscan priest on the continent; he first learning in his own home, but at Skelton where he learned Latin, was appointed Bishop of Killala in the age of seven and a half years, he French, Mathematics and Science. 1707 and managed to get safe passage records in his diary going to school in Sometime in the late twenties he met to Ireland. When he arrived there, he Carraig na gCrippa (Carricknagrip), the O’Naughton family (originally could find no Bishop to consecrate where he began grammar. The teacher from Co. Roscommon), whose him. There were only two bishops in was Seamus Mac Glaodmuind, the date school of poetry was well known the country, one a fugitive in Munster, was 0th September 1717 , the school at the time. He made copies of the other in a Dublin Jail (Newgate). was at Clooneenhugh. The following extracts from the Book of Ballymote Somehow he managed to visit the jail, year the teacher was Proinnsias Ó which was in O’Naughton’s and there he was consecrated by Bishop Coirnin, a well known poet in his possession. His knowledge and Donnelly, probably the only Bishop day; he is favourably mentioned and love of old Irish manuscripts was elevated in jail. He had a difficult and extracts from his verse are given in greatly advanced by meeting John stressful life spent mostly in hiding, Douglas Hyde’s hook “A Literary Fergus, a well known collector. and in poverty. He travelled under an History of Ireland”. Of course those Charles married Catherine 0’ Hagan in assumed name “Mr. Fitzgerald” - the were hedge-schools, the teacher and 171, the daughter of a Boyle merchant. young Charles in his diary wrote of location of school changed each year, With her dowry he rented a farm near him as “An Gearalthach”. He visited and the schools were at Cloonbuidhe, Tulsk, Co. Roscommon. It was here he Knockmore, and Balengare when Kilmacroy, and Ballyfarnon in the wrote his farm diaries, and a first hand the family moved there in the mid following years. A travelling account of the Great Frost of 1740, and of seventeen twenties. He bequeathed friar who knew no English taught him the terrible famine that followed in1741: to Charles a copy of the Annals of the rudiments of Latin, and Dominic Ó 400,000 people died which was a higher the Four Masters, which had been Duignan gave him a good grounding percentage of the total population than in

2 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 the Great Famine of the 1840s. The price and pamphlets of this enlightened man. of oatmeal rose twelve times in the month Despite all this work on a literary, of July, a hungry month in a hungry year. national, political, and religious level Migration to the fertile lands of Leinster he managed to do a survey of the A Prayer and Munster to obtain seasonal work was Parish of Kilronan, and wrote his report Bernie Martin the accepted lot of many of the labourers, “The Statistical Account of the Parish but in 1741 they had to return as there of Kilronan, and of the Neighbouring was little or no meadow to cut. His farm District”. It was the only report· of its Dear Lord protect the lonely diaries were written in Irish, and give an kind worth preserving by the Dublin The fearful, sad and lost. account of farm practices and prices in the Society, which commissioned those Give them strength, Ireland of 270 years ago; the originals are surveys throughout the whole country. Where strength is needed kept in Clonalis House, Castlerea . He is There is a typewritten copy of a prologue, and friends to help them bear their again quoting farm prices thirty years later and Scene 1 of a play entitled Rusticus; cross. in a letter to Edmund Burke, the British the setting of the prologue is the exterior Look kindly on the destitute, Government’s Secretary for Ireland. of the Hermitage at Balenagare(1779), Give them means to aid their way. His wife died in 1741 and she was the setting of Scene l is a farmhouse at Ease the grief of those in followed shortly afterwards by a young Kilmactranny on Christmas Night 172. child Marc. Denis the Knockmore Dramatis Personae Denis O’Conor mourning ploughman died at Balenagare in 1750 (father), Mary O’Conor (mother), To them solace, when all is grey. aged 76 years and his mother died in Turlough O’Carolan (harper), Charles To the silent longing of the lonely, 1760. Charles inherited Balenagare in McCabe (harper), Bishop O’Rourke, A hand in friendship be bestowed. 1749, and gave it to his son Denis in 1760. and young Charles, aged 1. Let us see, when there is He retired to a house he had built on the Charles had the annoyance of a long suffering, estate, which he called “The Hermitage”, legal battle with his younger brother When someone bears a bitter load. to devote himself to the removal of the Hugh, who became a protestant, which Give the lost, and those in exile, restrictions and disabilities of the Penal gave him preferential title to Balenagare. a candle shining through the dark. Laws, by peaceful means. After long and expensive litigation, The homeless, a sense of the case was settled out of court. Alongside his farming activities Charles belonging carried on his collection of old Irish There is no adequate biography of this in a world so often stark. manuscripts, and made copies of old outstanding, intellectual, and learned fragmentary pieces wherever he found man, but all aspects of his life are dealt them. He was an extraordinary letter- with in books, papers, and periodicals. Give each one, two arms to turn to writer: there are at least four large volumes He continued his correspondence when despair is close at hand. of his letters ( 171-1790) published; the until the year before he died. In his And a kindly soul to share our life originals are mainly at Clonalis, Pearse last published letter to Bishop Edward with, St. Library, the British Museum Mss. French of Elphin, he complains of As we struggle through this land. Library, and some at Sheffield, and severe rheumatism, and writes that he Stowe. He wrote an important history, ‘was able to walk or rather crawl afoot the “Dissertations on the Ancient History to the Chapel of Bale nag are to attend of Ireland”, an account of its origins, Mass on Sundays and holy days. He government, letters, sciences, religion, died in July 1791 at the age of 81 and manners, customs, and on the Irish is buried in Ballintubber Abbey. colonies established in Britain. He wrote numerous pamphlets, the most important of which was “A case of the Roman Catholics of Ireland”. Charles 0’ Conor, John Curry and Thomas Wyse founded the Catholic Committee in 1757, it was the forerunner of Daniel 0’Connell’s Emancipation Movement, and played a significant role in the reforrns of 1782 and ‘9. Charles proposed the catholic rent, which was adopted by 0’Connell sixty years later, and his Repeal movement may owe more than a little to the letters

 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 The Rock of the Cats PJ Duffy

As we pass Collooney village on our set fire to the tinder-dry undergrowth. During the 1800s and early 1900s, way to Sligo town, at a short distance As the fire spread, pandemonium broke Carrignagat became renowned for from the roadway we are likely to see out and the yells and cries of scorched its horse fair. This was the place you an elevated piece of rugged terrain cats were heard all over the place as headed for on the first day of February known as Carrignagat and which, they scampered in all directions to if you needed to get a cob of a horse to we are told, means “The Rock of the escape the blazing shrubbery. Some do the Spring’s work, and if he were Cats”. old females stood over their broods a satisfactory worker you would hold In times past numerous stories relating of kittens and were later found dead on to him for several years to come. to this strange place have been passed in their breeding places. Many more Farmers and horse-dealers would down to succeeding generations, the abandoned the place and took refuge often travel long distances to do most obvious one being that long in a nearby wood. business there. ago the place was the haunt of a large Some people held that this was a During most of this time the fair was number of wild cats who made it into most unlucky thing to do and that it held on the roadway, about half way their natural habitat. As time went by would invite nothing but misfortune between Collooney and Ballisodare. many weird stories and superstitions on those who carried out such a deed, However during the early 1940s the were woven around the Cats of the but from the accounts handed down it venue was moved to Ballisodare and Rocks. For example, many people at does seem that this disastrous action remained there until the marts put paid that time firmly believed that to ill- finally put an end to the harem of to the holding of country fairs. treat or harass these creatures would cats that had for a time in our history draw bad luck and misfortune on the occupied that rugged piece of terrain Taken from the stories and lore of a culprit who dared to do such a thing. known today as Carrignagat. previous generation. Collected by PJ It was said that in times of impending During the years that followed the Duffy. disaster the cats would assemble fire, a number of new legends and together and meow and cry for “the run stories grew up around the place. It of a night” in what used to be referred was said that at the dead of night, a to as a “cats’ concert”. People would number of cats would assemble at the point to tragedies that had happened spot and cry and wail into the small at sea off the coast of Ballisodare and hours of the morning. There was too say “I knew it was coming, sure the the legend of the black cat with bright cats never stopped crying the other piercing eyes that used to sit on a rock night”. ledge only to vanish and then reappear Since the cats mated and brought at the most unlikely places. forth their young in this place, their Another story goes that when a numbers eventually increased out of certain funeral was passing by on the all proportion so that they became roadway, a black cat was observed an unmanageable pest in the area. To moving under the horse-drawn hearse exist they had to find constant supplies behind the horse’s hind legs. Some of rabbits, mice, wild fowl, and coarse said that this was the funeral of the fish discarded by fishermen along the man who had years before set fire to coastline, but the final straw came the shrubbery that had shielded the about when local housewives began cats. to complain that the cats were stealing Back in olden times, Carrignagat was and killing their chickens. the place where at certain times large One particular gentleman decided numbers of people assembled to barter to act. As a young man he had been and exchange goods at their local abroad and had long since shaken off margadh (market). It would seem that the shackles of Irish “pishoguery”. On in those days little or no money would a dry March day he went along to the change hands. According to accounts cats’ abode which was decked with handed down, all sorts of goods and faded grass and withered shrubs, and livestock would be exchanged.

4 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Traditional Rhymes : Old traditional rhymes popular in rural Ireland during the middle years of the last century

Collected by PJ Duffy

Three little fish went out to swim I mean to have my fill”, Upon a summer’s day. But when he brought the nanny home They swam in and out and round about He found it was a bill Then right well pleased were they. ………………………………………………….. At evening time the sun grew red Behind the old church spire, Monday for health, They said “Let’s hurry home to bed Tuesday for wealth, Because the world’s on fire”. Wednesday the best day of all, Thursday for crosses, ………………………………………….. Friday for crosses, and Saturday no day at all. I met a little elf-man once Down where the goblins go. ………………………………………………… I asked him why he was so small And why he didn’t grow. One mag sorrow, Two mags joy, He simply frowned and with his eyes Three mags a letter, He looked me through and through. Four mags a ploy, “I’m quite as big for me” said he, Five mags silver, “As you are big for you”. Six mags gold, Seven mags secrets that never can be told. ……………………………………………. …………………………………………………. Did you ever take potato-cake or boxty to the school, Tucked underneath your arm with your pencil, slate and January brings the snow, makes our feet and fingers glow. rule? February brings the rain, thaws the frozen lakes again. And when the teacher wasn’t looking, there a great big March brings breezes loud and shrill, stirs the dancing bite you’d take daffodil. Of the floury, mealy, juicy sweet potato-cake. April brings the primrose sweet, scatters daisies at our You did, so did he, so did she, so did I, feet. The more I think about it the nearer I’m to cry. May brings flocks of pretty lambs, skipping round their But weren’t those the happy days when sorrows we knew fleecy dams. not June brings tulips, lilies, roses, fills the children’s hands And my mother made colcannon in the little skillet pot! with posies. Hot July brings cooling showers, apricots and ……………………………………………… gillyflowers. August brings the sheaves of corn, then the harvest home Said an ould tinker woman to an ould tinker man is borne. “Would you please put a bottom in me ould tin can?” Warm September brings the fruit, sportsmen then begin He took it and he shook it and it didn’t take him long, to shoot. He soon put a bottom in her ould tin can. Brown October brings the pheasant, then to gather nuts is pleasant. ……………………………………………….. Dull November brings the blast, then the leaves are whirling fast. Paddy McGinty was an Irishman of note, Chill December brings the sleet, blazing fire and He fell into a fortune, he bought a nanny goat. Christmas treat. Said Paddy “Now of goat’s milk (by Sara Coleridge)

5 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 The Bi-Centenary Celebrations of St. Kevin’s Church, Keash, Co. Sligo, 3rd August, 2009

Address by Padraig Duffy

A Thiarna Easpaig, a Exhaustive research conducted on the life of our rural parish and its Athaireacha, a Eaglaiseach Eaglais na by our local eminent archaeologist people. No doubt the Proclamation h-Éireann, a tSiúreacha, a Theachtaí Martin A. Timoney suggest that a of an Irish Republic in 1916 would Dála, a ionadaí Comhairle Co. chapel, as it was then called, was have been well received by the Shligigh, a h-Aoínna speisialta agus a built here at the beginning of the 19th faithful congregation here. Yet they mhuintir an pharóiste: century, in 1809. It is believed that soon experienced the traumatic era Is cúis áthais domsa, ar son this small enclave of worship had a of the Black and Tans and the Civil an Coiste Eagraíochta, fíor chaoin sod roof, later updated to a thatched War, events that must have forced the fáilte a chuir roimh uilig anseo inniu roof. people of the time to dig deep into go dtí Eaglais Caoimhín Naofa, Ceis The building of the original their reserves of faith in order to find Chorainn ar an ocáid stairiúil seo. chapel is thought to have taken place hope for the future. Cuirim fáilte ar leith roimh during the tenure of Fr. Fitzmaurice, But they managed to keep the Easpaig Breandán agus roimh na cléir who had been educated in the Irish faith and even extend their place of a bhi ag freastáil sa pharóiste seo i rith College in Paris. Members of his direct worship by adding the two porches. na blianta ata caite agus atá i láthair family lineage, the Devine family The sacristy had already been built in inniu, Canóin Criostóir Mac Lochlann, are present here this evening and the the middle of the 19th century. an t-Athair Pádraig Ó Loinsigh agus family is represented in the Sanctuary Time moved on and rural an t-Athair Fearal Mac Amhlaigh. by Fr. Padraic Devine, currently on electrification in the early 1960s was My Lord Bishop, Rev. holidays from the African missions. a huge step forward for the population Fathers, Rev. Sisters, Representatives It is a source of pride in our reared by the open hearth with the of the Church of Ireland, T.D.s, community that the chalice used by candle and oil-lamp. Our church was Chairman and Members of Sligo Co. Fr. Fitzmaurice is preserved here in illuminated by the magic of electricity Council, special guests and fellow- St. Kevin’s Church Keash and was and the old gas lights and gas heaters parishioners: used this evening at the concelebrated became redundant. This unfortunately It is an honour for me, on Mass. was an era of widespread emigration behalf of the organising Committee, Many changes have taken as our youth sought a better way of to extend a Céad Míle Fáilte to you place in our Church over the past two life often in far off lands. Wherever all here this evening to St. Kevin’s centuries. We can only imagine the they went they took with them the Church, Keash, Co. Sligo, on this very difficulties facing both clergy and laity faith that they had practised here in historic occasion. here in the early days. We can assume St. Kevin’s Church. A special word of welcome that many of the early worshippers We can move on to an era that to Bishop Brendan Kelly, our chief here would have experienced the many of us can remember: the late celebrant and to the clergy who served Penal Laws. The elders among them 1970s when the then Parish Priest, in our parish over the years and are would have been forced to resort to the Canon John Alexander McGarry, present here today; Canon Christy Mass rocks to practise their religion. spearheaded a major renovation of St. McLoughlin, Canon Pat Lynch, Fr. Catholic Emancipation, achieved Kevin’s Church. Detailed examination Farrell Cawley. by the Liberator, Daniel O’Connell, of the structure indicated that dry rot This is indeed a momentous must have come as a great relief to the was a major problem with the wood occasion, not just for our community faithful here. while the stained glass windows were here in the parish but for many The Great Famine in the urgently in need of refurbishment. emigrants who have worshipped here late 1840s ravaged the countryside. In short the project grew over the years, and are now living in Abject poverty was widespread but as more problems were discovered the four corners of the world. Some the people kept the faith. Then came along the way. The building was have come to join in our celebrations the Land War, when families, unable completely gutted at considerable here today and we extend a Fáilte to pay their rent to the landlord, were cost. It is a tribute to the local people, Arais to them. evicted from their homesteads, yet this many of whom are present today, that As you will see from our building remained a place of solace they subscribed so generously to the special Bi-Centenary booklet, the and hope to so many. project and everything was paid for in actual date of the building of our Like so many places in the record time. Work began in 1977 and Church two centuries ago was difficult West of Ireland the events of the early St. Kevin’s Church was rededicated to define accurately. 20th century had a profound effect in April 1980. The first Mass in the

6 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 renovated building was celebrated by assistants who have transformed the setbacks, yet they nurtured the seeds the late Canon McGarry on Saturday Church surrounds from an overgrown sown by St. Patrick and St. Kevin, evening, 29th Sept., the eve of the visit wilderness to a place of beauty guided by the pastors who served of Pope John Paul II to Knock. and colour all the year round. We here so faithfully over the past two The renovations involved appreciate the talent of James Murray, centuries. many major alterations and many here Tubbercurry, who has transformed the We have a Church that we today will recall the original pre-1977 sanctuary with his murals, depicting can be proud of and we thank God for Church with nostalgic memories (see scenes with a religious theme. that. It is up to us, and the younger Martin A Timoney, The Corran Herald, Above all, we realise that we generations, to carry on the religious 2010-2011, 55-56 for photos of the are Pobal Dé - the People of God, tradition here in appreciation of and in interior of the church as it was in the regularly assembled to worship in his respect for the generations before us. early 1970s). In the post-Vatican II era house. We recall the many happy and We thank the many people the priest now celebrated Mass facing sad occasions celebrated here as the who made today’s celebration possible, the congregation. The old altar was special landmarks in each person’s particularly the organising committee, removed, the altar rails, the suspended life are punctuated here from the led by our energetic pastor Canon sanctuary lamp, the two galleries, the cradle to the grave. Over the years James Finan. Today is a special day old Confessional boxes, the pulpit and congregations have gathered for many for him. He has been planning for this the old gas heaters all made way for reasons, baptisms and confirmations, celebration for quite some time, as we more modern furnishings. marriages and funerals. Missioners have all seen so often, and it is a source Perhaps most conspicuously have come and gone, each with of great satisfaction to him to see his of all, the single pole in front of the their own message of hope and love, plans come to fruition. He has led by altar, on which the roof beams rested, occasionally with the odd threat of example from the beginning and put was relieved of its long term duty as eternal damnation to add spice to their many hours of planning, preparations, the architect and engineers devised a homily. personal visits and phonecalls into new roof system. Over two centuries countless this historic day for our community. Many of us have nostalgic thousands have worshipped here, some To put it simply, he has a persuasive memories of these changes which perhaps rich and famous, others with way with him that gets things done no brought our place of worship into few of life’s possessions or luxuries. matter what difficulties may surface. the 20th century. Since then further Perhaps some caught the eyes of the I think he deserves a special bualadh improvements have been carried fashion-conscious as they made their bos. out, including storm glazing of those way up the aisle. Others may have I thank Martin A. Timoney unique stained glass windows, the drawn silent criticism as they knelt to for his painstaking research into the installation of a modern speaker pray and unwittingly exposed a hole history of St. Kevin’s Church and system, extensions to the car-park, in a shoe or a sock to their neighbours. other local places of worship pre-1809 shrubbery in the Church grounds, Yet I am sure that in their own way and for his role in the compilation of laying of tarmacadam footpaths, etc., each was equal in God’s house. the text for the special Mass Booklet, taking us into the 21st century. In Over the years many people including the modern photos. The early 1985 new furnishings for the made great sacrifices to get here to older photos are from individual sanctuary were presented in memory fulfil their Sunday obligations. Some parishioners and we thank them for of the late Fr. Kevin Brehony and the rose before dawn and walked on well those photos. Drury family. trodden paths, sometimes in their bare I thank you, the congregation, To day we salute the memory feet. Some carried their Sunday shoes for your attendance and the choir, of the people who did much to and only fitted them when they neared musicians, altar-servers, stewards, enhance the Church and its grounds their place of worship out of respect etc. We offer a special word of over the years. Many of us will recall for God’s house. Many came by horse thanks to Bishop Brendan and all the diligent work of the late Hannon and trap or sidecar. In more recent the concelebrants. Your presence on family of Cross, who regularly times people cycled here; families this special occasion is very much cleaned the Church before a voluntary often sharing a bicycle to attend either appreciated. We thank all who took Committee was assembled. of the two Sunday Masses. More part in the Liturgy. Sincere thanks We recall the late Francy recently motorised transport has made to the Ladies Committee who have McDonagh, local shopkeeper, who it so much easier to fulfil the weekend refreshments available in the hall lit and maintained the gas heaters obligation and the introduction of the afterwards. over many years. We remember Pakie Vigil Mass has given people greater As we conclude the Tansey and Pete Brehony who helped opportunities at a time when we all celebration of the Bi-Centenary of to maintain the interior and exterior for seem to be so busy and pre-occupied our Church today let us not forget the years. In modern times we appreciate with matters of the day. past, but also look forward with pride the work of Kathleen Ballantyne and The challenge for us here and confidence to the future. the members of the Altar Society who today is to build on the great faith Míle Búiochas dibh go léir do so many unheralded tasks within and devotion of our forefathers who agus in iothlainn Dé go gcastar sinn. the Church. We admire the wonderful have left us with a great legacy. They work of Sean Coleman and his experienced many difficulties and

7 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Eddie Masterson Remembered James Reddiough

Eddie Masterson, the solicitor from and also saw Eddie Masterson embark and he would attend matches all over Tubbercurry, whom many readers of on a career in song writing and in the the country and soccer matches in The Corran Herald knew well, was show business world, a pursuit that Dalymount Park and the races too. He the first Irish songwriter to have a song would earn him the title The Show came from a strongly GAA family, his in the UK Charts when his Tribute Band Solicitor. brother Joe played for Sligo and for to Jim Reeves was in the Top 40 for He wrote for the dancing and Connacht in The Railway Cup Series. 11 weeks in December 1964 into the entertainment journal The Musical He was later PRO of Sligo County spring of 1965. It was recorded by Gazette, a monthly column on the up Board and Mayor of Tubbercurry. Larry Cunningham and The Mighty and coming show bands and singers Eddie was the organiser of Parish Avons in the autumn of 1964. for the year. Also he wrote songs and Leagues in the area during the 1950s Eddie was born on the 2 February some of his best known songs for the and also a member of The Jimmy 195 to Edward and Joannie Masterson 1960s were What Time Will Santa Magee All – Stars who played together and he was one of eight in family. Be Coming? Reflections of You (this to raise funds for charity and played His father was a shopkeeper in the song won the Castlebar International their first game in Ballyjamesduff on town and had a large premises and Song Contest in 1968), and It’s Hard the 6th June 1966; they raised millions successful business. Eddie attended to Know. His co – writers were Gay in the 1 years they were together. St. Nathy’s College, Ballaghadereen McKeon and the Manager of the The team was made up of people from from 1949 to 195 and sat his Leaving TV Club in Harcourt Street, Sean the world of sports, entertainment Certificate in 1953. After this he Sharkey. These songs were recorded and the media and after each match studied Law and qualified as a Lawyer by Pat Lynch and the Air Chords, Pat they held a cabaret. In their first year in November 1959. He worked in McGeehan and The Victors and The together they played 18 matches and Sligo, Carrickmacross and Dublin as Paragon Show Band. Eddie was always with them to share a Solicitor. He lived in Barry’s Hotel In the 1970s he wrote sporting in the fun. from 1965 to 1982. tributes to Offaly in 1971 – 72, Offaly Sadly, he died at the age of 47 in In Tubbercurry as young man he the Champions and The Iron Man from St. Laurence’s Hospital, Dublin was a member of the famous Phoenix Rhode, a tribute to the Offaly Full Back on the 4 April 1982 from a brain Players, The Tubbercurry Dramatic Paddy McCormack. In 1975 when haemorrhage. He had attended a Society, and they performed in St. Sligo won its first Connacht Title since dance in his favourite venue The Ierne Brigid’s Hall, Tubbercurry, and 1928, he wrote Sligo the Champions on Parnell Square and fell ill after the also in other venues in the west and and a few years later a tribute to Mick dance. Fr. Brian Darcy, a life – long northwest. This was in the late 1950s Kearins, The Man from Dromard. His friend anointed him and celebrated and early 1960s. uncle Nick Devine was a member of Mass for him in the Church at Mount He wrote A Tribute to Jim Reeves in the Sligo Team in 1928. Argus and then the funeral made its Carrickmacross in August 1964 after In the country and pop field he wrote journey west to the Church of St. John hearing of the death of Reeves on the When It’s Christmas Time Again in the Evangelist, Tubbercurry where radio. He gave the words of the song Connemara and this was recorded by the next day the 7 April 1982 his to Jimmy Smith of The Mighty Avons Gene Stuart and The Homesteaders in Requiem Mass was celebrated again and they played it for the first time in 1977, and the year before this Gary by Fr. Brian and a number of other The Astoria Ball Room in Bundoran. Don’t Go was recorded by Shaun O’ priests. There were large numbers of It received three encores. The Avons Dowd and Ding – a – ling. Other people at the funeral from the world then recorded it and it got a good deal songs that he wrote were Hippyland of show business, sports, politics, and of air play on Radio Caroline and on and The Green Pound. In the autumn the media, and the legal profession. Radio Eireann, and with this it went of 1977 he had his next Top Ten with a He was buried in Rhue Cemetery and into The Top of the Pops on the 10 tribute to Elvis, Thank You Elvis. This Jimmy Magee composed The Final December 1964 and was there until was recorded by Brendan Bowyer and Tribute in his memory. Throughout February 1965. It was in the Radio the Big 8 and reached No. 4 and was the tribute he referred to Eddie as The Eireann Top Ten in January 1965 also in The Top Ten for eight weeks from Master because this was the name that and sold 250,000 copies. It was the September 1977. the lads who played on the All – Stars song that launched the career of Larry As well as song writing, Eddie was called him. The large crowds that Cunningham and The Mighty Avons also a keen sports fan of all codes came to the funeral were a measure of

8 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 the esteem in which he was held. Eddie would be remembered with humour and sadness by his family and friends and all those who had met him along the way and he was always there to help people and get them started in various jobs in the city, journalism and the music world.

As Jimmy Magee wrote:

“He knew his sports; he loved the men who played it. He knew his music; he loved the men who made it. He knew his job, and always aided those who wished it. Celebrating 10 years in showbusiness in the company of TV & Radio We’ll never really see his like again.” personalities Back row: Eddie Masterson, Bill O’Donavan, Fr. Brian Darcy, Lynda Jane, Ivan Martin. Perhaps it is best to leave it to the Front row: Hendy, Big T, Gene Stuart, John Greer, Paddy O’Flaherty people who met him or perhaps Source: http://www.genestuart.com/gallery.php encountered him in the course of his life at different stages, the shop Tribute to Jim Reeves by Eddie Masterson Tribute to Eddie Masterson by Jimmy assistant in Carrickmacross who Magee recalled the young, well – dressed In Nashville down in Tennessee a plane crashed through the trees No man wrote more Tributes than the man coming into the shop to buy the And in that fatal air crash was a singing star Master, papers or Fr. Brian Darcy who wrote called Reeves. The verses seemed to tumble from his brain, fondly of him in his autobiography A Now Gentleman Jim was our idol with his No man knew more people than the Master, sweet voice soft and low We’ll never really know his like again. Different Journey and in the words of And one of his first big hits was the tune He’ll The Final Tribute by Jimmy Magee. Have to Go. He knew the lifeblood of our business. When Brush Shields recorded Old Pal (Verse from He’ll Have to Go) The secrets that he kept were thousand-fold. No man could write the story like the Master, he dedicated the album to Eddie, Donal Now Jim we liked your love songs that we Now the story never will be told . Corvin and Phil Lynott, he wrote in his listened to for so long, sleeve notes “We remember them with For we know you lived the past in each He knew the singers and the sinners, sentimental song. He heard the laughter, felt the cries. sadness in our smiles and memories in Fond memories you rekindled of our dear ones He saw the world of entertainment our eyes.” out of sight Through childish, cheerful eyes. We conclude this piece in memory When you sang with deep emotion of the one you missed that night. He wrote songs of sporting victories, of Eddie Masterson with some words (Verse from Oh, How I Miss You Tonight) He wrote about departed friends, from The Final Tribute by Jimmy Songs of joy and sadness, Magee. You never forgot the lonely ones who seldom Songs that followed trends. had much to say, And you made their lives more cheerful in your He knew his sports; he loved the men who “He was counsellor, the wise and ever kind assuring way. played it, sympathetic ear. You gave great feeling to the words in your He knew his music loved the men who made smooth and dreamy way Professionally and socially, he it. A love’s message of understanding you left He knew his job and always aided those who touched the lives of those who’re above the clay. wished it, here. (Verse from I Won’t Forget You) We’ll never really see his like again. Band musicians, politicians, were He was counsellor, the wise and ever proud to call him friend Now Jim we mourned your passing, there was sympathetic ear, For The Master this is the new no time for goodbyes, Professionally and socially he touched the beginning But when the tragic news was heard tears lives of those who’re here; filled many an eye. Band musicians, politicians were proud to call There will never be an End.” We know you wished to say farewell to your him friend. friends and fans as one, For the Master this is the new beginning, So on your behalf we say goodbye in the There will never be an end. words you so softly sung Adios Amigo, Adios my Friend.

9 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Fr. Michael O’Flanagan and the Cloonerco Bog Fight

Joe McGowan

Mícheál Ó’Flannagáin was born on time. castigated the distinction between the 12th August 1876 in Kilkeevan Following a stint, in 1912 and those who had the favour of the Board near Castlerea, Co. Roscommon to again in 1914, as Advent and Lenten and those who did not, describing it as Edward and Mary Flanagan. The preacher respectively, at St. Sylvester a ‘rotten policy’. Towards the end of area was a ‘breac Gaeltacht’ and the in Rome, he was appointed curate, in this very forthright letter he expressed Flanagans native Irish speakers. Their August 1914, to Cliffoney in the parish his amazement at the people affected: livelihood was gained from working of Ahamlish. His responsibilities ‘In spite of all the bad traditions of the a small farm of mixed land bordered extended to Inishmurray Island off past, they still have some love left for on one side by the fertile estates of the Sligo coast. Immediately on his law and order.’ the local landlord and on the other arrival in North Sligo he encouraged The Board remained unmoved by barren bogland. Following a the people there to organise in defence by Fr. Michael O’Flanagan’s primary education at Cloonboniffe of their rights that were often impinged impassioned pleas. Despite intensive National School, the young Michael upon by oppressive bureaucracies, correspondence, the CDB were had his first association with Sligo landlords and the R.I.C. determined to reserve the bogs for when he attended secondary school at clients of their choice. By late June Summerhill College. On graduating families were in a desperate position there in 1894, he entered St. Patrick’s as no turf had been cut and they were College, Maynooth, where he was facing the unthinkable prospect of a ordained for the Diocese of Elphin winter without fuel. in 1900. Following his ordination he Despite being warned by Bishop returned to Summerhill College and Coyne not to get involved, Fr. worked there as a teacher until 1904. O’Flanagan, addressing his His clerical duties soon became Shortly he became involved in a congregation at Cliffoney Church on interlaced with efforts to establish a remarkable incident that came to be the Feast of St. Peter and Paul, June viable basis for the movement towards known as the ‘Cloonerco Bog Fight’. 29th, 1915, told them to wait outside Irish Independence that was gaining Taking on the establishment, against for him after Mass. Here he instructed momentum at that time. He became the wishes of Bishop Coyne, he them to assemble the next morning convinced that the Irish language, rural agitated for turbary rights [right to cut with their turf cutting implements. He industry and the local Church were turf] for the local people. This situation would lead them to the bogs where vital elements in the achievement of was brought about by the Congested he himself would cut the first of the this. His skills of oratory in promoting District’s Board’s acquisition of the forbidden turf: ‘I would advise every his objectives were matched by an Hippsley and Sullivan estate and man and boy who wants a turf bank originality and genius for fundraising. their consequent insistence on re- and can work a turf spade to go to the Prior to one of his trips, on behalf of distributing turf cutting rights to waste bog tomorrow and cut plenty of Connradh na Gaeilge, to America, he families who had relatives in the turf.’ There was no need to be afraid, cut a sod from each of the thirty two British Army or R.I.C. he told them! The Creator had put the counties of Ireland; bringing these O’Flanagan commenced bog there for the use of the people. with him, he invited Irish-Americans correspondence with the Congested The following morning the dauntless to walk on their native soil at a dollar Districts Board (CDB) on May 15th Fr. Michael, accompanied by the local a time. In his fundraising work for 1915 requesting that bog be allotted to medical practitioner Dr. John Nally, Connradh na Gaeilge he raised over his parishioners who had no turbary. led an assembly of over two hundred £,000 between 1910 and 1912, a They had now to gaze upon great people to the Cloonerco bogs. A large small fortune by monetary values of empty tracts of bog that until lately body of R.I.C., under Sgt. Perry, (who the time. At Bishop Clark’s request, had been theirs to harvest by right from was to die some years later in the he returned again to America to raise time immemorial. His parishioners, ‘Moneygold ambush’) followed and funds to clear the debt on Loughlynn he wrote, could not be expected ‘to ordered the crowd to stop. True to Convent near his home. In 1906 he allow their children shiver in the cold his word Fr. Michael stepped behind took another group to the USA to next winter while you (the Board) the spade and cut the first turf. It was promote Irish lace, a cottage industry retain the bogs for prospective clients a clever move as the RIC, fearing the that was widespread in Ireland at the still further on the horizon.’ He vengeance of the people, would be very

40 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 reluctant to arrest a priest. Scuffles Fight”. In addition to the fine the Board 2nd November 1915 took place, some of those present were agreed to apportion the plots fairly and arrested and legal action taken in the not just to their own nominees. The Dear Dr. Hagan, following days and weeks but the people of North Sligo had won a great turf were cut and saved. They were victory and continued to cut their turf …History is being made in Fr. eventually brought down from the bogs in peace on the Cloonerco bogs until Shannon’s parish every day. The where they were built in a large stack quite recent times. A right hard won C.D.B. failing ignominiously in its close to the R.I.C. barracks directly in for them by their sturdy forbears. attack on his administration evidently front of what is now Cliffoney Parish O’Flanagan survived the actions succeeded in securing the help of Hall. A large sign was placed on the brought against him by the civil Dr. Coyne. In consequence, Fr. O’F stack: “OUR OWN TURF FOR OUR authorities but Bishop Coyne, furious at is now in Crossna, Boyle as like the OWN PEOPLE: FOREIGNERS this flouting of his authority, transferred dutiful son of the Church, which he HAVE NO RIGHTS HERE”. him from Cliffoney to Crossna in is, he submitted to the change without Co. Roscommon. The people were demur. Not so the people however. To dismayed at the removal from their a man I understand they marched to midst of a priest and leader they had the Bishop’s house fifteen miles away, come to love and respect. They were but as the Bishop was from home they not going to take it lying down! Much had their journey in vain. to the Bishop’s dismay hundreds of They then decided on closing the the congregation made their way in Church, and although Fr. O’F went procession to the Bishop’s palace in back by direction of the Bishop to Sligo town. Travelling in horse and demand the key, they would not even ass carts and on foot they assembled then comply but nailed and barred on the lawn to pray and agitate for the up the doors against Fr. McHugh, the return of their champion1. In letters new curate. I understand no Mass has they beseeched Bishop Coyne that been since celebrated in that part of the ‘you will send us back our poor, dear parish and even the poor P.P himself, Fr. O’Flanagan who was an ornament who was accustomed to celebrate to the Roman Catholic church of Mass in an adjoining schoolhouse has Cliffoney and who, during his short been prevented from doing so. stay with us has discharged his duties The people, during the regular in a manner that that no other priest hours for Mass, congregate in the O’Flanagan requested that the turf has done in our memory.’ Church grounds and recite the Rosary. be divided among the people and When all entreaties failed the people Meanwhile Fr. O’F is doing his duty that a cart of turf be left at the door of the locality barricaded Cliffoney in his new parish. It is a pity to have of each one of the older people in the Church, nailing the doors and windows such scenes occurring but clearly the neighbourhood who could not cut their shut, thus preventing Bishop Coyne people are bitterly incensed at the own. More was to be left for people sending a replacement. They mounted action of the bishop in coming to the who had no transportation, as there a guard day and night and assembled help of an autocratic Board. I am not were many poor people in the area at on Sundays outside the Church to quite certain whether Fr O’Fs tillage that time that had no carts. recite the Rosary. The impasse lasted special precipitated the crisis but Throughout the summer the until Christmas Day 1915 when the one thing I am satisfied that it stung case simmered on and rumours of Bishop agreed to provide a priest ‘who JW Russell to the quick. The tillage prosecution were rife. Eventually an would be a good Irishman and a patriot’ meeting was proceeding in the usual injunction was granted by Mr. Justice to replace Fr. Michael O’Flanagan. humdrum way with the stereotyped Pim of the chancery division of the High Thus ended the remarkable saga of the resolution duly proposed and seconded Court against Fr. Michael O’Flanagan ‘Cloonerco Bog Fight’. until Fr. O’F rose. You may guess the and the other leaders: Dr. Nally, Patrick This excerpt from a letter sent by rest and the bit of a curtain the C.B. Gilgar, Charles McGarrigle, Francis P.T. Keohane, editor of The Catholic raises of it gives a poor indication of Higgins and Andrew Harrison. In Bulletin, to Dr Hagan of the Irish what the subsequent proceedings were deference to appeals made by Canon College in Rome reveals how the like. Doorly on their behalf the Congested matter was viewed further afield: You need not feel the least uneasy Districts Board eventually decided that Fr. O’F will lose his head. He is to drop the case in return for a £5.00 a philosopher and does not even know fine being paid by the defendants, thus 1 And, it was related with much hilarity what it is to lose his temper. You will ending the saga of the “Cloonerco Bog later, stole the Bishop’s apples. be glad to know that the C.B.[Catholic 41 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

Bulletin] is going strong despite all ‘I am a suspended priest’ he remembered here with affection. A opposition: and you may take my word once wrote. ‘I have been disobedient committee was formed in 1942 and for it that the people appreciate it too. and have been suspended for a door-to-door collection taken up to The country was never so calm and not disobedience, but unlimited authority I install a holy water font to his memory for many a year so prosperous, and am not prepared to give to any authority at the front entrance to Cliffoney never minding its own business better. in the world. I am a priest, but I was Church. The font was accepted and Even the paid agitators have to hold an Irishman twenty years before I was the installation allowed by Bishop their meetings within closed doors. a priest. Almighty God made me an Doorly, but no inscription or mention Irishman and put upon me the duties of Fr. O’Flanagan was permitted. It Best wishes, of a citizen of Ireland… no institution wasn’t until c1990 that this work was can take that away from me.’ completed when the North Sligo branch P.T.Keohane He was conferred with the freedom of CCE, of which I was privileged to of the city of Sligo in June 1918 and be an officer at the time, was renamed an illuminated scroll presented to after Fr. Michael O’Flanagan. Shortly him on behalf of a grateful people by afterwards a plaque, with his name Mayor Hanly. Outside the Town Hall, inscribed, was placed over the holy according to the Sligo Champion, water font. A large crowd attended the enthusiastic crowds ‘cheered memorial Mass which was celebrated themselves hoarse’. It was Fr Michael by Fr. Patrick Healy. The Mass was O’Flanagan who recited the prayers attended by officers and members prior to the sitting of the first Dáil at of the branch, by Pat O’Flanagan Dublin’s Mansion House in January of Castlerea, grandnephew of Fr. 1919. In the 190s, he was one of O’Flanagan, and by Thomas Hargadon, the few Catholic priests in Ireland to Cliffoney. Thomas (R.I.P) was the Fr. Michael incurred the displeasure support the Republican government only surviving member of the original of Bishop Coyne again when he in Spain. An inventor too, he won a committee set up in 1942 to erect the spearheaded a campaign to have posthumous prize at an exhibition of memorial. Count Plunkett, father of the executed scientific inventions in November With the unveiling of the plaque to 1916 leader, Joseph Mary Plunkett, 1942 at the Mansion House in Dublin this great priest’s memory, honour has elected in the Roscommon by-election for a type of face goggle suited to the been given in some small manner to of 1917. The people of Crossna protection of the eyes and face either a man who richly deserves more and responded in the same way as did underwater or against noxious gases. who gave so much to his parishioners their counterparts in Cliffoney some As a researcher with the Dept. of and to his country. time before. After several weeks of Education he worked on the translation a standoff Fr. Michael returned to tell and publication of O’Donovan’s Further reading: his people that he wanted to leave the letters relevant to the ordnance survey They have Fooled you Again, Denis parish quietly and the protest ended. of 188. He died with this work Carroll; Columba Press, 199 In a letter to Dr. Hagan in the Irish uncompleted. In a poignant letter dated Priests and people in pre-famine College, O’Flanagan wrote that he August 2 1942 addressed to the people Ireland, S.J. Connolly; Four Courts ‘tried several times to reason the people of Cliffoney he said: ‘I am dying with Press, 1982 into opening the Church but to no avail. a very special love of the people in In the Shadow of Benbulben, Joe Mc On Christmas Eve I appealed to them my innermost heart. I’ll be waiting in Gowan; Aeolus Publications, 199 for the sake of Ireland, to make me a Heaven to greet the Cliffoney people, Christmas gift by opening the Church. especially those who prayed for me at They yielded at last and for the first the front door’. time in 10 weeks the [replacement] This great patriot, the man who priest was allowed in...’ Cathail Brugha claimed was, ‘the This time the Bishop suspended staunchest priest who ever lived’ him from clerical duties and it would died in Sandyford Dublin on August be twenty years before he received 7th 1942. In two days twenty-one another clerical appointment. thousand people filed past his coffin as However, ecclesiastical politics it lay on a catafalque in the Rotunda at were not the sole or focal point of City Hall; thousands had to be turned this priest’s life. He was all the time away. growing in stature as a central figure in The people of North Sligo have the Irish independence movement: never forgotten him and he is still 42 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Late Eighteenth Century Views of Ballymote in the National Library of Ireland: Bigari, Beranger and Grose.

John Coleman

Fig 1 Ballymote Church or Abbey [1779] Angelo Maria Bigari. National Library of Ireland, Prints & Drawings image no. 2122 TX (73) Ballymote ‘abbey’ and castle have later leader of the Volunteer movement, paper in pencil, pastel and paint c. been the subject of antiquarian interest and was included in a group caricature 1600-1914, London, 1994.) They since the eighteenth century and there portrait painted in Rome in the early identify William Burton Conyngham are a number of late eighteenth century 1750s by Sir Joshua Reynolds which (1733-96), nephew of the first earl drawings of both in the National depicts him with shamrock in his hat Conyngham (of Slane), as the key Library. and his English, Scottish and Welsh figure in the third quarter of the Although there had been some earlier counterparts equally symbolically eighteenth century ‘with a finger in interest in such matters, the second identified [now in the National Gallery every antiquarian, architectural and half of the eighteenth century saw a of Ireland]. Charlemont was a prime artistic pie’ (he was also an army officer, remarkable rise in antiquarianism in mover in the establishment of the Royal politician and significant entrepreneur Britain and Ireland with an increased Irish Academy (1785) which went on promoting fisheries in Donegal interest in the architectural remains to play a crucial role in the study of – Burtonport, which he developed, on each island. This interest was Irish antiquities, remains at the centre bears his name). Like Charlemont spearheaded by leading aristocrats of Irish scholarly life and, of course, he travelled on the continent, in his such as Lord Charlemont who, after is the home of the Book of Ballymote. case mainly studying Roman sites a long grand tour in Italy, Greece Anne Crookshank and the Knight in Spain and Portugal. He employed and further afield, looking at ruins of of Glin devote a chapter to ‘the numerous artists to produce drawings ancient civilizations, came home with a antiquarians’ in their monumental of antiquities for his collection and curiosity which extended to Irish sites. study of works on paper (The was one of the 8 founding members Charlemont was a patriotic figure, watercolours of Ireland: works on of the Royal Irish Academy (see

4 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

Dictionary of Irish Biography, 2009.) town museum in Rimini, not far from his Antiquities of England and Wales Burton Conyngham commissioned Bologna]. As well as Ballymote he also (177) and the publication Antiquities Gabriel Beranger (c.1729-1817) and drew other sites in the area, including of Ireland, known in Ireland as Grose’s Antiquities. Francis was English born and London trained, worked in Ireland on and off from 1770 and died here on 1st May 1791 before the Irish volumes were produced, actually including engravings based on the work of many artists mainly from Burton Conynghan’s collection. Daniel contributed a view of Ballymote castle to Grose’s Antiquities (fig. 5). Curiously, according to Strickland (Dictionary of Irish Artists, 191), he died in Carrick-on-Shannon in May 188. The drawings illustrated as figs 2 and 4 are in an album with a mustard coloured velvet cover at the centre of which is a red morocco panel with gold tooled decorations on which is the title Fig 2 Church of Ballymote [plan and tracery of great window] [1794], in gold, Antiquities of Ireland Book II. Gabriel Beranger, National Library of Ireland, Prints and Drawing, image no. Inside on the right hand frontispiece 2122 TX (2) 50 is an inscription (in a not particularly elegant style) Antiquities of ABBEYS, Angelo Maria Bigari (fl. 1772-79) the abbeys of Banada, Boyle, Court, CASTLES, in Ireland by Austin to undertake a tour of the West of Dromahair and Sligo, which were Cooper F.S.A. Vol II 1786. The inside Ireland and produce illustrations of engraved for Grose’s Antiquities. of the album cover is inscribed Austin antiquities in the province. The pair Damer Cooper, Drimnagh House, St visited Ballymote on 0th June 1779. Dooloughs [St Doolough’s church in The plan of Ballymote ‘church’ (fig. north County Dublin is the subject of 2) is the work of Gabriel Beranger and a (much later) painting in the National the views of the castle and ‘church’ Gallery of Ireland by Nathaniel Hone]. are by his colleague and friend Bigari’s drawing of the ‘church’ Angelo Maria Bigari (figs. 1 & 4). or abbey (Fig. 1) is well known as Beranger was a Huguenot born in it was later used as the basis of an Amsterdam (Peter Harbison in the engraving in Grose’s Antiquities. Dictionary of Irish Biography, 2009) Fig. 2 depicts the church plan and who came to Ireland at the age of 21 and detail of the surviving tracery of the remained here. He earned a living in a ‘great’ window. It is signed confusingly variety of ways as print seller, framer, ‘G Beranger delint [drawn by]’ and ‘J S drawing-master, assistant ledger Cooper pinxit [painted by] April 1794’. keeper in the government exchequer It is inscribed ‘great window’ and office and topographical draftsman. ‘lower part closed up with masonry’. Fig 3 Head over door of Ballymote Crookshank and Glin describe his Fig.3 is a visually attractive, though church [1791], Lieutenant Daniel work as ‘charmingly naive’, pointing not particularly convincing, depiction Grose, National Library of Ireland, out that he rules his architectural lines of the head over one of the doors of Prints and Drawings, image no. 1976 and that his figures are fairly cursory. the ‘church’. The version illustrated TX 39 Peter Harbison has published a study is the best of two in Cooper’s album. of a collection of his views in the The fourth drawing of the sculpted It is interesting that in the eighteenth Royal Irish Academy (Beranger’s head at the ‘church’ (fig. 3) is by century the title ‘church’ is used as Views of Ireland, Dublin, 1991). Daniel Grose (d. 188), nephew of what we have is indeed a church, Bigari was a Bolognese scene Francis Grose who produced many though it might have been part of painter [I was interested to see a small drawings of antiquities in Britain a Franciscan foundation known to still life by him on a recent visit to the and Ireland and is well known for have been in Ballymote at one time.

44 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

Fig. 4 is a very fine drawing/wash of Ballymote castle of 1779 by Angelo Maria Bigari. Ballymote castle is a significant building in national and international terms. It is of a type to be found also in England, France and even as far away as the Middle East where such fortresses were built by crusader knights. Harold G. Leask, the distinguished Irish antiquarian, singled it out for mention in his 1941 work Irish Castles and Castellated Houses (Dundalk, 1941, pp. 69-70). It is described in his chapter on keepless castles of the 1th century. Built around 100 by the Norman Richard de Burgh (Burke), he describes the Fig 4 Castle of Ballymote County Sligo, with highest tower 55 feet high 1779, building succinctly. It is almost square Angelo Maria Bigari. National LI Prints & Drawings, 2122 TX (15) in plan with ¾ towers at each angle and a double towered gate building result of gradual dilapidation (which point, the walls seem to be diminished of great size in the centre of the north should equally have befallen the and the stone possibly removed? It is curtain which has lost all but its remainder of the building) but rather worth noting the high front gate house foundations. Mid way along the east the product of an assault by cannon in with a chimney much more intact than and west walls are D shaped towers possibly the last stand of the castle as a what remains today. and there is a square tower mid way defensive fortress. [There is an almost The drawings are reproduced along the south wall covering a postern exact copy by Cooper dated 1794 in courtesy of the National Library of gate. This now blocked up gate can his album - fudging of the depiction Ireland. Grateful thanks are due still be seen facing Ballymote park of the interior of the breached tower to Honora Faul, Assistant Keeper, – such gates were used as a means on the right is the only remarkable Department of Prints and Drawings, of escape in the event of a siege. distinguishing mark of the original]. for her enthusiastic assistance on The 1779 view of the castle from It is interesting to compare the my visit to the Library to look at the the south east corner by Bigari seems drawing with the engraving by drawings. more substantial than what remains Samuel Hooper by Sparrow after today or indeed what we see in Daniel Daniel Grose’s original published in Grose’s 1794 view (fig.5); the tower 1794 (Fig. 5)(Grose’s Antiquities). in the foreground still has a great gap While the view is from a more distant but the remains seem taller in Bigari’s drawing. Because Bigari’s view is drawn from very close up it makes the building look remarkably bulky and intact: the positioning of a tree today makes it impossible to view the castle from where it might have been drawn by Bigari and thus difficult to compare what is there now with what he saw. A sense of scale is conveyed by Bigari by the inclusion of two tiny figures perched on the rubble inside the breached tower to the left – one standing gesticulating with outstretched arms; while the second is seated in more contemplative mode; probably one depicts his colleague Fig 5 Ballymote Castle, published 1794 by Samuel Hooper in Grose’s Beranger. Why is this tower in such a Antiquities. Engraving by Sparrow, after original by Daniel Grose. Collection ruinous state? It does not look like the of the author.

45 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Castlebaldwin Village Clare Walsh

When the Mail Coach Road was storey thatched house of eight rooms 190s the Ryan family built the present constructed from Dublin to Sligo owned by Michael Walsh. There was house and P.O. at the crossroads. it opened up this area for travel, a large kitchen and a dining room. The forge was owned by the Morrison communication and commerce. The remainder of the rooms were family for several generations. They There was no crossroads or village bedrooms, three of which contained were blacksmiths and farriers until in Castlebaldwin at this time. An old two four poster beds in each, the the advent of the tractor. It is now a map, circa 1800, indicates a road from others single canopied beds. There garage. Ballymote to meet the Coach Road. was stabling for sixteen horses but in The schools were built in 1902, a The “line” from Castlebaldwin to the late 1800s the stable was burned. two-teacher boys’ school and a two- Annaghcurra was made in the 1880s There was a public house owned by teacher girls’ school. connecting with the old road from Ned Walsh on the opposite side of the An old map shows that there was Brickeen. road. a one storey house on the road side At this time the Post Office was in A half mile south was Master Luke where McDermott’s now stands. It was Lynchs’ and the mail was delivered Nangle’s house and school, also a a public house and had many owners by the mail coach on to Whitehill and thatched building. over the years. Mr. Flannery retired Riverstown. Bianconi started his mail cars after from the R.I.C. about the beginning of The Mail Coach Road from Sligo to 1825, their speed eight miles an hour. the 1900s. He bought the public house Dublin via Boyle and Longford started The first houses at the present cross and enlarged it to its present state. The in 1808. The coach was drawn by roads were built by Richard Taylor of building contract was taken out by Pat four horses and carried ten passengers Cleavery, a house for himself, a shop Tansey who built the “ACE office” as inside and four outside. Stages were and the barracks for the R.I.C. These a house for himself. It was later rented built to accommodate users and were slated houses. At this time the by the school teacher for many years. horses. Between Boyle and Sligo there R.I.C. lived at Cloongad. were stages at Lackagh, Ballinafad, Pat Lynch owned the Post Office Cloghogue and Toberscanavan. where Lynch’s is today. When he died The Cloghogue stage was a two his widow transferred the P.O. In the Local History From Hollybrook to Cloghogue

Clare Walsh

The area from Ballyfarnon to Soden who sold Carrigeenfadda and the Williamites were coming from Ballymote is roughly the Barony Cloghogue in 1858. Manorhamilton so the servants buried of Tirerrill. In ancient times this At the time of the confiscation the plate and valuables and set fire territory belonged to the McDonagh there was a lake “between the three to the castle. It is not known if the Clan. At the time of the Cromwellian forts” from where the old creamery castle was re-stored at this time. War these lands were confiscated and stands to the kiln. The elevation of There is no known history about the given to the English soldiers in lieu the present road shows the depth Baldwin family. It is surmised that of payment. of water. There was a nunnery at they were a branch of the Nicholson Colonel Edward Nicholson was the back of the creamery. This was family. It has been said that they awarded Bellanagarrigeeny (Béal demolished and the stones were taken built the castle. This is not correct, Átha na gCarraigíní, the present in flat bottomed boats to build the but they probably repaired it. They Castlebaldwin) and Brickeen and he castle. The mortar was mixed with gave their name to one townland later enlarged his holding to 1,84 oxen blood to make it a permanent “Baldwin” which has now developed acres 2 roods 24 perches in the structure. into “Castlebaldwin”. One family, County of Sligo. The Nicholsons Local tradition has it that Sir Teigh Brehonys, still live in the townland of intermarried with various other O’Regan billeted in the castle on his Baldwin. families. The last known member way to defend Sligo in 1690. When in this area was James Nicholson he left for Sligo, rumour spread that 46 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 The Sligo Shoe Factory Bernie Gilbride

As we left the cinema one lovely Summer evening, having availed of the early screen showing, it was still bright with a balmy breeze blowing. On approaching our car, parked in the Quay Street car park, Anne suggested that, having sat for over two hours, a stroll would be nice. The sound of the tide gently lapping against the quay walls drew us towards it, and we made our way left, along the cobble stoned roadway, towards the north Wall. The sun was a ball of fire in the distance, almost on the edge of the horizon, casting a golden glow over the estuary and the river Garavogue. ‘Wow’ exclaimed Margaret, ‘what a view, and to think we could have got into the car and driven home, missing out on all this, only for Anne. Thank At the official opening of the Sligo Shoe Factory were (L/R) AP Jackson; SH you Anne, you always get things right.’ Derham, Solicitor; ------, Seán Lemass TD, Minister for Industry and There was nobody around. We Commerce; William Feeney; ------. Can anybody supply the missing literally had the place to ourselves. names or verify those given? Photo courtesy Bernie Gilbride. ‘Was it always quiet like this?’ here. They spoke with the loveliest and of course the spectacular sunset. asked Anne, ‘I know nothing English accent and we all tried to Could one put that colourful glow on of Sligo really, coming only to speak like them. Never quite managed paper, one would make a fortune’. visit with you, Pat, once a year.’ to however, though we all remained A couple of hours later, as we sat ‘No indeed, Anne, it was not great friends. The Shoe factory had around the kitchen table with the always quiet like this,’ I remarked, slipped my mind, until the other day remains of our coffee, Pat kept me ‘Sligo was once a very busy port, when I came across a photo of some to my promise to tell them all I had exporting to England, Scotland, and important looking men and on turning found out about the Sligo Shoe even the continent, the produce of the it over found it was a record of the Factory. It had indeed been opened countryside, cattle, sheep, pigs and official opening of the shoe factory. mid 190s all those years ago. butter, etc. Potatoes also, especially Realising I had a little bit of history This is what 1 had found out and how. seed potatoes to Spain in the Spring. in my hands I decided then and there In the Library and with the help of There was a Shoe Factory just along to do a bit of research into that factory some friends, two books were suggested where we turned the corner back and find out what had become of it’. where I might find something about there, in the mid thirties. So I am ‘And did you?’ asked Pat. the Shoe Factory: The Protestant sure they also exported shoes then’. ‘I did indeed, Pat. The following Community in Sligo 1914 - 49 by ‘A Shoe Factory? Pat asked morning I went to the Library to see Padraig Deignan, and The Streets of ‘Yes a Shoe Factory, Pat, I had if I could borrow anything that would Sligo: Urban Evolution over the course heard about it years ago when a few throw some light on the Shoe factory. of Seven Centuries by Fiona Gallagher. new girls came to our school, as their It had haunted me during the night and Having a copy of ‘The Streets Of parents had come to work in the new I was determined to learn why it was Sligo myself, I immediately began Shoe Factory. I never was in it, or near not still there, realising the boon it my search. I found a very interesting it even, as anywhere down near the would be to the town, especially these account of my ‘Shoe Factory’ in this quays was out of bounds for us then. days. I will fill you in on all I have historical masterpiece, under the We became great friends with some found out so far, over coffee in my Lower Quay Street section, where of the girls and they told us they had house, when we get home. Let’s just we walked earlier that evening. lived in Manchester before they came enjoy our walk, the heavenly breeze, In it, Fiona Gallagher records the

47 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 foundation of the Factory in the The Chairman of the company been. The brave original investors premises once owned by :Messrs was Mr. S.H. Derham, Solicitor, and did try to restart the venture, but Newsom’s at the Custom Quay. This the Directors were Sligo business were not successful. We felt sure came about through the investment men A.B. Woods, A. P. Jackson, the outbreak of World War II that of some business men in Sligo and Mr. B. Maguire TD, Leitrim. September did not help either. So the Sligo Shoe Factory was no more. Many of its skilled employees took the boat to England, where no doubt they worked in ‘Munition’ factories for the duration of the War. Luckily for me, my friends’ parents stayed on in Sligo, where they found other employment It was a sombre ending to our lovely summer day. As we said good-night all expressed their regrets at what might have been had the terrible fire not happened. We arranged our trip to Donegal next day, vowing to have only happy things on our minds. However, we all wanted to walk again on Custom House Quay and take a better look at the site that was once The Sligo Shoe Factory before ending our yearly traditional meeting of friends on the coming Friday. It was a much subdued group that walked along the Quays that Thursday evening. We could almost feel the sadness caused by the destruction of the Factory and the regret of the employees. Had any come back, we wondered, and stood, as we were standing now, looking at the empty 1910 Ordnance Survey map of the quays area in Sligo. The location of the Shoe site? Some maybe glad they had had Factory is shown in deeper grey. This was a old warehouse, previously built in the to emigrate, others wondering how early 1820s by the Middletons. The site is now used for a parking area. Only the different their lives might have been walls remain. Map and information courtesy Fiona Gallagher had the Factory survived. One thing for sure, it could only have had a good and Leitrim. The trade’s best and The next entry is, unfortunately, effect on the local economy, not only newest machinery was installed a recording of a massive fire on that of Sligo town itself, but of the and every precaution was taken the morning of St. Patrick’s Day, County as well. to ensure that the premises would 199, which destroyed the factory. be a model factory. Every effort That week the employees were was made towards the comfort and on overtime, filling an order for convenience of the employees with an 70,000 pairs of shoes for Easter. ideal ventilation system. The building One can only guess at the hardship was of stone and was three stories the loss of such a source of income high, manufacturing shoes, slippers was, not only for the employees, but and evening shoes for ladies and men. the town also. Not to mention the With a beginning staff of fifty, of investors who had put their money which twenty were skilled English into such a welcome project, a few operatives (hence my lovely English short years before. accented new friends), it eventually The silence around my table spoke employed 200 and had a capacity to volumes. Each of us was lost in the turn out 9,000 to 10,000 shoes per week. possibilities of what might have

48 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Summer Sojurns in Ballymote From TEID FOCAL LE GAOITH by Proinsias Mac an Bheatha. Chapter IX: Ag Cur Eolais ar an Saol (Getting to know the world). Line 4, p 66 to end p 69.

Translated by Neal Farry

For a number of years during my teens, the young republican with whom I regularly received an invitation to I had become acquainted when I spend the summer holidays in the first came to Dublin. I described home of an uncle of mine who lived John as a soldier of the Legion of in Ballymote, County Sligo. I learned the Rearguard of the Republic. a lot during those vacations. My “In the name of God”, said my uncle. uncle owned a shop and a bakery in “Rid yourself of this nonsense about the town and a fairly big farm out the the Republic. Are you referring to that road, and between these concerns he senseless, misguided mob of ruffians was reasonably busy. Although he who are after doing more harm to this was in the main part preoccupied with country than the English ever inflicted?” his daily work he was knowledgeable “They were fighting to about current affairs of every category. protect the Republic”, I replied. He was well educated; he used to read “There was never any Republic widely and he was constantly buying in it to protect, and in any event it books dealing with every subject that on me the obligation a person must isn’t for the good of your Republic he found interesting. He was very kind have to use his own judgement. or its security that many of that lot to me and was ever ready to share his It happened, however, in one case go around patrolling with guns. It’s erudition with me. He would bring of the curiosity that he had aroused well I know them and it’s clear to me along with him while he attended in me, that my thirst for knowledge me that not one of them was within to his business. He showed me every progressed further than he expected. an ass’s roar of a gun when the Black nook and cranny of his own property It transpired that he set me to read a and Tans were in this country”. and the stores and the equipment of the periodical that was in circulation at “Surely you don’t intend to bakery. He allowed me to accompany that time entitled “The Outline”. H.G. condemn the entire Republican Army him to the farm, where he kept store Wells was its editor, if my memory on account of a few bad apples in cattle and dairy cows, sheep and pigs. serves me right. From “The Outline” its ranks”, I retorted. “What about I constantly pestered him with I advanced to read the works of Rory O’’Connor, Liam Mellows, questions and he was always patient Wells himself and before long I was Dick McKelvey and Joe Barrett?” with me in return. Many a long engrossed in Darwin’s “The Origin of “I won’t say a word about the afternoon we spent in the fresh air, Species”. I became so exercised with dead. They were soldiers, and as far lying in the grass or walking the fields this topic of evolution that I began as I know, noble soldiers. But look” and I never wished for any company arguing with the Christian Brother said he, “it’s better for us not to fight or companion beyond himself. He at school about ‘the inaccuracy of the Civil War all over again. Let’s was well informed about every aspect the Bible’. The same Brother was a go and check matters on the farm “. of rural life, the trees, the field plants patient man, thankfully for me, and We never discussed the question and the wild flowers, the birds and the he calmly entertained my theories of the Republic any further after animals. He would frequently point until he explained specifics of the that. I realised that I’d never get the out to me the various birds’ nests, contradictions that seemingly existed better of him in a debate and I had no the forms where the hares had lain between the theory of evolution and desire to submit to his strongly held the previous nights and the ambush the creation story in the bible that views, since such a course would sites where the foxes had slaughtered were not evident in “The Outline”. My involve disloyalty, and desertion of the grouse and other such birds. uncle was not too pleased with himself the ideals that I had received from That uncle undoubtedly nurtured in when he heard about this unexpected my mother and John of the I.R.A. me a deep affection for pastoral life consequence of his guidance. Talking to my uncle about the and country people. He demonstrated In spite of the fact that I was Irish language precipitated a similar to me that a great wide world existed decidedly under the benign influence conflict of minds. I spoke to him one outside the confines and thresholds of of my uncle I was not always willing day about the language revival and the the towns and cities, and he placed to yield to all the opinions that he extent to which our school curriculum learning and the pursuit of learning sincerely held. I raised the question was helping my acquisition of Irish. before me as desirable objectives in of the Republic one day and I spoke I happened to mention that I had themselves. Furthermore he impressed to him about my friend John Lyons, occasionally heard the Christian

49 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

Brothers saying that it would be the Act for Public Safety was in force Notwithstanding the fact that wonderful if the Irish language would at the time and some of us perceived it military affairs were seductive to me again be spoken by the people of to be a source of political oppression. at that time my interest in the subject Ireland. He did not agree. He asserted However, on the night before my diminished with the passing of years. that Irish was a waste of time and we departure I placed the revolver and It seems that I was never destined to should relinquish the foolishness of bullets in my travel case. When I be a soldier. the revival, and instead we should reached Dublin I discovered that the Proinsias Mac a’Bheatha (Frank embark on the work that needed to gun had gone missing. Some time McVeigh) was born in Belfast in the be done to put the nation on a sound afterwards I heard that my uncle had first decade of the 20th Century. His footing. While I was not equipped opened my case to place a gift there father died while he was a child and with a suitable argument to his thesis, and he found the gun. He left a note, he was raised in Bangor, Co. Down in such a way as I could respond at which read “Have no truck with the and in Belfast. As a teenager he the present time, I was still not content guns,” and a half sovereign in its experienced sectarian conflict which to concede that he was right. I had place. The bullets escaped his notice caused his widowed mother to move listened to the opposite opinions about and remained hidden deep in my the family to Dublin. He attended the Irish language for a long time from luggage. I secreted them in a drawer in Westland Row Christian Brothers’ the Brothers and from my own family, my room until the start of the Second Secondary School. He joined the Civil and my uncle would have needed World War in 199. One day I received Service of the Irish Free State and he to employ more powerful polemics information that the Gardai planned became deeply involved in the Irish to impose his philosophy on me. to raid the house where I was living. language revival movement as an During one of my summer sojourns That night I flung the bullets down the activist in a number of elite branches back west in Ballymote I became drain in the back yard and as far as I of Connradh na Gaelige (The Gaelic friendly with two cousins, sons of know it’s there they remain to this day. League). He was a founder member another uncle who lived in the vicinity. I must have had considerable and columnist with the Irish newspaper They were somewhat older than I was interest in military activity during “Inniu”. He was the author of the and they possessed two revolvers and that period. I still have a book that I following Irish language books: “Teid a quantity of bullets to match. Guns bought for few pence from a book- Focal le Gaoith”, “Tart na Cora”, were in plentiful supply during those barrow on the Dublin Quays one “Gaeilge don Phopal” and “Seosamh years after the Civil War. I quickly evening at that time. ‘The Elements MacGrianna & Cursai eile”. In the developed a fascination for the same of Modem Tactics’ was written by translated extract he says that his weapons with the end result that I was Lieut. Col. Wilkinson Shaw at the unnamed benefactor in Ballymoye given one of them as a gift as I prepared beginning of the 20th century. I spent was his uncle, i.e. John A. Dockry. In for my return journey to Dublin - a a lot of time studying Colonel Shaw’s this case he was indulging in some small serviceable pistol and seven tactics and I recall a description of a creative licence. In fact he was s a first bullets. I have no idea how I intended particular gun the English had used in cousin, with one removal, of John A. to put this small side-arm to use, but the Sudan “with gratifying results”. Dockry. Ballymote’s John Perry Appointed Minister for Small Business. Ballymote’s John Perry was appointed level of understanding, concern and Minister of State at the Department respect that this administration has for of Enterprise, Jobs and Innovation, small business, for entrepreneurs, for with Special Responsibility for people who take the risk. Small Business, in March 2011 by “I am very much looking forward An Taoiseach, Enda Kenny. It is the to the role and I see it as a critical first time a Minister has been given a element of our economic recovery. specific role within the Small Business I am determined that we can give area of responsibility. entrepreneurs and small business Minister Perry states that this people the necessary incentives and demonstrates the level of respect that encouragement through our direct the new government has for Small action, to create and retain jobs. There Business and Entrepreneurs in this are over 80,000 Small and Micro country. He states “I am obviously Companies in this economy employing delighted, honoured and humbled to over 800,000 people, and it is an area have been appointed a Minister of which has been largely neglected and State by An Taoiseach, Enda Kenny. forgotten about by government up Most importantly I am especially until now. I will be seeking to redress delighted to have been given that balance and am looking forward responsibility for the Small Business immensely to the challenge”. Portfolio. It clearly demonstrates the

50 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Clerical Influence on the Outcome of 19th Century Sligo Elections John C McTernan

In the opening years of the 18th century the candidate of his choice, John P. the outcome of County elections, both Somers, Liberal and Repealer, scored locally and nationally, were almost a decisive victory over John Martin entirely dictated by the landowning who contested the election in the class, while in the majority of Conservative interest. Corporate Boroughs the control Ahead of the Borough election of usually rested in the hands of ‘patrons’ 1841 a meeting of Liberal voters took such as the Wynnes of Hazelwood, the place in the Parish Chapel, presided dominant family locally. However, as over by Revd. Owen Feeney, P.P., at the century progressed the situation which J. P. Somers (outgoing) was began to change and in Sligo in both unanimously chosen as their standard- 1818 and 1826 unsuccessful efforts bearer and was returned unopposed. were made by a handful of clergy to Over the following years Owen Feeney mobilise the Freeholders of the County publicly proclaimed that he had “every and a majority of the electorate became in support of the pro-Emancipation right and justification in directing his disillusioned with the performance of nominee while at the same time flock and those with Liberal tendencies their representative at Westminster seeking to rescue their flocks from the how to vote”. and in 1847 an approach was made to control of a territorial aristocracy, Shortly after John Martin had been Charles Towneley of Towneley Hall Clerical involvement in seeking to returned as the member for Sligo in Lancashire, a member of a leading influence the outcome of elections Borough it became increasingly Catholic family, to stand in the Liberal declined with the passing of the evident that he was gradually interest in the ensuing Borough Catholic Emancipation Act in 1829 abandoning his Liberal principles. election. In an Address to the electors, which was followed by a Pastoral Letter When the next election came round in published in the local Press, he stated from the Irish Hierarchy forbidding the July 187 the Dean invited John Patrick that he had come to Sligo “with the use of chapels for political purposes. Somers, a native of Achonry and a blessing of your Bishop, Dr. Browne, Contrary to this directive Dean James friend of Daniel O’Connell, to contest and with the support of Revd. Owen Donlevy (1791-188), Administrator the seat in opposition to Martin. The Feeney Adm.” In the ensuing contest of the Sligo Parish, took an active campaign that ensued was a vigorously Towneley defeated Somers but was part in the Borough election of 182 contested affair in which Donlevy subsequently unseated on a Petition. and vehemently opposed the return spared no lawful effort to secure the The enactment of the Ecclesiastical of John Wynne, the outgoing M.P., return of his latest ‘protégé’. From Tithes Act of 1851 greatly aroused who failed to give his full backing church pulpit and election platform religious feelings resulting in the clergy for Emancipation and opposed he strongly denounced the outgoing becoming actively involved in both grant aid for Maynooth College. member for betraying the trust they the Borough and County elections of Instead, the Dean lent his support had placed in him. The criticisms 1852, addressing meetings on behalf to the candidature of John Martin he levelled at Martin were so severe of the Liberal candidates and escorting of Cleveragh whose principles he that the Conservative organ, “The electors to the polling booths. believed to be Liberal. Thanks mainly Sligo Journal”, referred to the Dean as In advance of the 1852 Borough to Donlevy’s campaign on his behalf “that agitating veteran in the Roman election the Bishop of Elphin, George Martin defeated the representative of collar”. In the ensuing election the Plunkett Browne, and the newly the powerful Hazelwood family who Liberal voters of the Borough rallied appointed Administrator, Thomas had held the seat for generations. In round their beloved cleric once more Phillips, paid a visit to Towneley response to criticisms levelled against and, assisted by his “remarkable Hall and invited Charles Towneley him by the Wynne faction the Dean ability as an electioneering orator”, to contest the seat for a second time

51 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 in the Liberal interest. After some accompanying clergy they cast their Swift published a lengthy Address consideration Towneley accepted the votes for Towneley who defeated promising to seek the repeal of the invitation and on his arrival in Sligo Somers by 149 votes to 108. As was Ecclesiastical Tithes Bill and support took up residence at Doherty’s Guest generally the case in Sligo elections tenant rights. Ahead of the election House in Castle Street where from an of that era Somers lodged a Petition he undertook an extensive tour of upstairs window he nightly addressed alleging unfair practices and after an the County addressing well attended the assembled supporters in the street investigation by a House of Commons and enthusiastic rallies, usually below. In the course of the campaign Select Committee Towneley was chaired by the local Parish Priest he was regularly joined by members unseated due to “undue clerical and after which he was introduced of the local clergy and on at least one influence, bribery and treating”. In to leading members of the Catholic the opinion of the Select Committee laity in the neighbourhood. In the the clergy were deemed to be guilty Diocese of Elphin clerical support of abusing their spiritual authority by was orchestrated by Domnick Noone, denunciations from the altar which P.P.,Geevagh, whose influence and they regarded as “inconsistent with oratorial powers did most to advance their duty as Ministers of Religion Swift’s showing at the polls. Also and destructive of freedom of choice to the fore was Owen Feeney, P.P., on the part of the voters”. Riverstown, who had previously Ahead of the by-election figured prominently in Borough that followed, a meeting of the elections, and Peter O’Connor, C.C., Independent voters of the Borough, Sligo, son of Owen and Rosanna chaired by Fr. Thomas Phillips., 0’Connor of Castlegal, Drumcliffe, Adm., then honorary Secretary of the whom the “Sligo Champion” described Sligo Liberal Club, approved of John as “the idol of the Roman Catholics” Sadlier, a former M.P. for Carlow, but in the eyes of the “Sligo Journal” occasion by Bishop Browne. On the as a suitable candidate to represent was “a violent politician”. Sunday prior to the election John P. the Liberal interest in Parliament In the ensuing election the Liberals Somers, the outgoing M.P., who was in opposition to John P. Somers. scored a notable victory with Swift defending his Parliamentary seat, Following Sadlier’s successful return gaining a seat at the expense of attended Mass in the Parish Chapel. At the “Sligo Champion” paid glowing Wm. R. Ormsby-Gore, the outgoing the conclusion of the service, Thomas tributes to the local clergy and in Conservative M.P. In a post election Phillips, the Administrator, addressed particular Administrator Phillips Address in Sligo Courthouse the congregation and exhorted them “whose towering form and manly Swift confessed that in an effort to to vote for Towneley. Pointing to but unassuming gait” was principally counteract the influence of the local the gallery where Somers was seated responsible for the success of the landlords he felt obliged to elicit the he denounced him “as a traitor to his Liberals in both the 1852 and 185 support of the Catholic clergy who in religion and his country” and under elections. At a subsequent meeting turn exhorted their flocks to support no circumstances were any of the of the Liberal voters of the Borough him in preference to the landlord’s congregation to vote for him. a Resolution was passed praising nominee and went on to publicly state On the night before the election the the part he played on both occasions that he marvelled at “the influence Liberals operated a Tally Room in and in recognition of which it was the Catholic priests had over their Mass Lane, otherwise Chapel Street, unanimously agreed to organise a flocks”. where upwards of fifty ‘wavering’ Testimonial in his honour. The Catholic clergy played a Towneley supporters were gathered, Richard Swift, a London merchant significant role in the General Election most of them involuntary, and their born of Irish parents, was invited by of 1868. The scene was set at a meeting wants attended to in food and drink the Liberal Club to present himself of the Liberal voters of the County in an adjoining ‘Treating House’ as a candidate in the 1852 County in July 1868, presided over by Capt. under the supervision of a local election. He was recommended by a John Woulfe Flanagan of Drumdoe, curate, Fr. Patrick White. On the number of church dignitaries including Ballinafad, and attended by Bishop following morning they were escorted Archbishop McHale of Tuam and Laurence Gilhooly, Canon Tighe of in groups to the nearby Courthouse ‘warmly’ approved by Bishop Browne Ballymote; Hugh Conmy, P.P.,Skreen; where under the watchful eyes of the of Elphin. In advance of the contest Owen Feeney, P.P., Riverstown;

52 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

Terence O’Rorke, P.P., Collooney; the following weeks Bishop Gillooly Rule Movement. However, as the 19th John MacDermot, P.P., Mullinabreena, and his clergy in after Mass addresses century drew to a close the support of brother of The MacDermot of in the Parish Chapel exhorted those in the clergy was no longer essential for Coolavin; and Domnick Noone, P.P., the congregation who were entitled to the success of a political movement. Geevagh. The meeting adopted a vote to cast it in Flanagan’s favour in In defence of the clergy it has been number of Resolutions culminating in preference to Major Laurence Knox claimed that they were “the exponents the nomination of Denis M. O’Conor, of the “Irish Times”, the Conservative of the opinions and feelings of their brother of The O’Conor Don of candidate. Despite the strong clerical flocks and did not impose on them any Clonalis, as the Liberal candidate. A involvement Knox was successful by purely political viewpoint whatever week later the Catholic clergy of the a handful of votes, 241 to 229. but rather gave effect to a conviction Diocese of Achonry at a meeting in The outcome was most disappointing that existed quite independently of Tubbercurry, presided over by Bishop from a Liberal viewpoint and themselves”. Patrick Durcan, pledged their support Catholics identified for not supporting for O’Conor as the Liberal and Flanagan were not only denounced Dreams of an Everyday Housewife Nationalist candidate in the ensuing from the altar in both the Parish December election. Chapel and the Dominican Friary Bernie Martin In the autumn of 1868 numerous but were precluded from worshiping rallies in support of the ‘popular’ in the body of the churches. At a I am a housewife, My job it is clear candidate took place in practically subsequent Parliamentary Inquiry Clean washing and ironing every parish in the County including John Morris, Adm., stated that the Throughout the year. Ballymote, Bunninadden, Collooney, reason for so acting was the feeling of Kitchen and Bathroom, Drumcliffe, Easkey, Enniscrone, indignation amongst the congregation Bedrooms and Bins, Gurteen, Riverstown and Collooney. against those of his flock who either Iron ‘til midnight In most cases the rallies were abstained or voted for Major Knox. To pay for my sins. chaired by the local Parish Priest and The latter was subsequently unseated Baking and budgeting, addressed by prominent members as he was by his agents adjudged to Making ends meet, of the Catholic laity. The outcome being guilty of bribery. The eagerly Grocery shopping, resulted in a convincing victory for awaited bye-election, which the Though I’m dead on my feet. O’Conor who topped the poll almost Liberals were confident of winning, Gardener. counsellor five hundred votes ahead of Sir Robert did not take place as the Borough of Nurse, PRO, Gore-Booth of Lissadell and seven Sligo was disfranchised by an Act of On 24 hour duty hundred more than Edward Joshua Parliament in 1869. Thereafter, and To help everything flow. Cooper of Markree Castle. for the first time since it was created Though my dreams they are simple Meanwhile, the Borough election a Borough in 1612, Sligo no longer My needs they are few, was also in progress. In April 1868 had a representative in Parliament But prayers for my children I daily accrue. Bishop Gillooly convened a meeting and thereafter the electorate exercised Let them be healthy of the Liberal electors for the purpose their franchise in the new constituency Wherever they roam, of selecting a candidate “worthy of of North Sligo. Do well and be happy representing this ancient Borough” in By the end of the 1860s there And come safely home. the upcoming election,. and Capt. John were signs that the hither-to-fore For if they’re in trouble Woulfe Flanagan of Drumdoe was unquestioned leadership of the Or very unwell, their unanimous choice. His arrival in Catholic electorate by the clergy was My dreams would be worthless, Sligo accompanied by two prominent beginning to decline principally due My life would be hell. clerics, namely, Domnick Noone to the arrival of the Fenian Movement And when they are older and Owen Feeney, and escorted by a which was condemned by the church. And out in the world large group of supporters, culminated However, the influence of the clergy My dreams will be aired out in a monster rally in Chapel Street did not disappear overnight and their And gently unfurled addressed by Domnick Noone, John backing was eagerly welcomed by I will paint a masterpiece, Morris, the Administrator of Sligo the leaders of the different political Become a cottage dweller parish, his curate, James Casey and movements such as the Land League, (by the sea), Monsignor Joseph Tucker of Boyle United Irish League, the National Sing Opera, in Covent Garden And write my first Best Seller. and a native of Springfield, Sligo. Over League and in particular the Home

5 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 North Roscommon Gaelicisms (Continued)

Frank Tivnan

This work is a glossary of Irish words which feature Leadair, to tear up, leather into him frequently in the everyday conversation in English of a Leadóg, a slap in the face mainly rural community of North Roscommon. This area Leadranach, slow, long-winded, boring of North Roscommon was Irish speaking until the 1880s. Leamh, flat as in beer, tasteless, insipid (“This business is The noted Irish Scholar Fr. Tomas Ó Ceallaigh who was very leamh”) born in 1897learned his first Irish words from his maternal Leibide, an idiot or awkward person grandmother Catherine Tivnan (Tivnan 1999). As a young Lionnán, a sick delicate child man Dr. Doughlas Hyde learned Irish from James Hart, Liobar, a hanging of lip. (“You could hang a bucket on a gamekeeper on Lord De Freynes’s estate in nearby his liobar”) Frenchpark. (Dunleavy 1991). Líbín, drenched wet (“I’m like a líbín”) The Irish words which I have compiled are still used up Liúdramán, a lanky lazy person to the present by people who are over fifty years of age. Loiste or leoiste, a lazy person The community on which I based my research has been Losset or losad (losad), a kneading trough for bread engaged in small farming and has lived in a tightly knit making and rather isolated manner. Consequently the vocabulary Loy (láighe), a special spade for making potato ridges reflects many agricultural terms, the cultivation of crops, Luascán, a swing, a hammock. “The hayshed is in a the diseases of man and beast, terms of endearment, luascán after the storm” pejorative terms and of course many references to the Lus na fola, yarrow plant. Pressed yarrow mixed with Christian religion. goose grease was a cure for ulcers (nowadays we tend to The role of the Seanachie, the traditional story teller, and use manuka honey instead) house rambling has done much to preserve the native Irish vocabulary which is an essential and valuable ingredient Mada or madra, a dog. Mada rua, a fox; meas mada, the to nourish and sustain the Irish psyche. respect of the dog, i.e. little respect Maide, a stick or beam Gabhal, a fork, the genital area Maith go leor, good enough, tipsy Gal daighre, a thick, awkward person Maum (mám), a handful, the full of two hands together Gallogue (gallóg), a big glassful of whiskey Mannt, the gap left by a lost tooth Galore (go leor), enough, plenty Manntóg, a person who is missing a few teeth Gam (gom),a foolish or rather stupid person Maol, bald, hornless. “Moily” for a hornless cow still is Gambún, a leg, haunch of ham used in Newfoundland, Canada. The moily cow is a very Geek (gíog),a slight sound old Irish breed, red with a white stripe down her back Gidaun (geadán), buttocks, rump Meadar, a wooden drinking vessel Gob, a bird’s beak, a mouth. “Close your gob”. Meas, respect or regard Girseach, a young girl Meidhreach, joyful, merry. Magairlín meidhreach, the Glam (glám), grab early purple orchid (used as a love potion) Glugger (gliogar), a rotten or infertile egg Mé féiner, a selfish person. Mé féin, me myself Gobawn (gobán), one who pretends to have great skill; Méigrim, a dizzy head one who is very unskilled. Méirín, a cover for a sore finger The gobán saor was a master craftsman; today’s use of Mí ádh, misfortune, bad luck gobawn contradicts this Meitheal, a number of people who gather together Gonc (gonnc), a snub, disappointment voluntarily to do work for their neighbour Grogeens (gróigín), five or six sods of turf standing Mionnán aerach, the jacksnipe whose cry resembles that together to dry of a goat kid Griosach, ashes containing embers. The fire is raked with Moneen,a fertile grassy patch of a bog or mountain griosach. (Píobaire an gríosaí – the piper of the embers, (móinín) the cricket) Muishe, musha, an interjection Griscin (gríscín), a piece of fresh pork from under the Múnlach, the liquid that emanates from a dunghill back bone Guggering, a homemade sisal bag to hold seed potatoes Neamp, a piece or bare patch. “John neamped Tom’s or split potatoes is called a guggering bag. Gogaireacht hair” means that John cut Tom’s hair badly, leaving bare is the act of placing seed in the hole made by the stíbhín patches. Origin obscure, maybe from ailp, a gap. Hurrais, a call used to summon pigs to food Noody naddy, an indecisive person. (Niúide neáide or Iris, a handle of a creel or basket niúdar neádar, indecision) Kathleen mavourneen, Kathleen my love, a hire purchase agreement. (Caitlín mo mhuirnín) Oighreach, chapped hands and feet caused by wet and Kybosh. To put the kybosh on something means to finish dry conditions. Also called Máirtín Oighreach off badly. Possibly from caidhp an bháis, cap of death Óinseach, a female idiot or fool Lab, a large sum of money, nest egg, inheritance Lách, sociable, generous Palltóg, a thump Lachlee (leach liath, grey layer), a type of impermeable Panaí, a tin mug subsoil Pánaí, a plump or fat person or animal. “The cat caught a Ladhraicín, a little finger or a young boy’s penis pánaí of a rat” Launawaula (lán an mhála, the full of the bag), a Peata, a pet or a mammy’s boy sufficient amount, well drunk Pichan, a hoarseness after the flu Leadaí na luatha (lazybones of the ashes), a lazy person Pislín, dribble, saliva who spends too much time by the fire Pisreog, witchcraft, omens, superstitions, charms, spells

54 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

Piteog, a sissy, an effeminate boy or man Spada, a soft inferior turf (Spadach) Plámás, flattery Spág, a large foot Pléicín, a head scarf, a cover for a sore eye Spalpeen, an agricultural labourer who travelled around Pleiche or pleidhce, a fool the country seeking work. Pluc, a fat cheek. “That lad has a good head and pluc on (Spailpin) him” Spideog, a robin, a drop from one’s nose Poc, a male goat Sponc, a stallion Póg, a kiss Steall, a quantity of liquid Poitín, a homemade whiskey Steeveen, a pointed wooden spade for planting potatoes. Potheens, small potatoes (Póithín or póirín) (Stíbhín) Praiseach, a mess, porridge. “Seán made praiseach of the Stócach, a young man, a sponger job” Stocán, a stump, a piece of wood Praties, potatoes. (Prátaí) Straois, a grim sarcastic smile Pruthóg, a present of eggs for Easter Streelish, untidy, unkempt (Straoill) Puisín, a kitten Stuic, a harmless type of fool Pus, a sour or sulky face, a mouth Sugán, a straw or hay rope Putóg, a small fat child Sughán, a drink made from oatmeal and cold water Suim, interest or regard Rideóg, bog myrtle. A few pieces of rideóg hanging from Súiste, a flail the ceiling will keep away flies Súlach, juice Ráiméis, foolish or senseless talk Tadhg, a man’s name. ‘Tuigeann Tadhg Taidhgín’, Ránaí, a thin lanky person ‘Greek meets Greek’. Tadhg an da thaobh, one who Riabhach, speckled or brindled, especially of cows. Trí lá runs with the hare and hunts with the hounds na riabhaigh, last three days of March (the reewogues) Tála, soreness in wrists, cramps (Tadhlach) Róidín lach, a straight row of people or animals Tálóid n., a half loft over the kitchen fire in traditional Ruadhóg, flaxen hemp used in mending shoes Irish thatched houses. Ruaile buaile, noise, confusion. Rí rá agus ruaile buaile, Támhaí, an ugly woman a hubbub Tairne féige, penis Rúisc, a big fat person Tar liom abhaile, come home with me, referring to a loose woman Scéal, news, story Taoscán, a small amount. ‘Give me a taoscán of flour’ Scib, a potato basket Tartóg, a dumpy woman Sceilp, a slice or layer Teem, to drain off. “John teemed the potatoes” Sciortón, a tick Taom, to empty Scivell, eaves of a house or of a stack of hay or oats Tinteán, fireplace, hearth. “Nil aon tinteán mar do (Sceimheal) thinteán féin” (proverb) - there’s no hearth stone like your Scollop, a sally or hazel rod used in thatching own hearth stone Scraw, a strip of earth cut out (Scraith) Tír na nÓg, legendary land of the forever young Scorrick, a little amount or a very small piece. Origin Tionnlacan na n-óinseach, the fools’ escorting, i.e. re- obscure, perhaps from Irish scoreach escorting of friends through reluctance to part Seachrán, wandering, looking for work. “On the Tór, regard, esteem seachrán” means on the look out for a job or unemployed. Turtóg, a clump or tuft in rough land Also drinking a lot Traithnín, a blade or wisp of grass or straw Seaf6id, silly or rubbishy talk Trehens, bad worn old shoes (Troithíní) Seaf6ideach, a person who is raving or mentally Trína chéile, mixed up, confused, bothered, upside down unbalanced mentally Séanas, a natural gap between the front teeth Tutach, ignorant, uncouth Seanchaí, a traditional story teller Turlach, a winter lake Sean nós, old style. “Peter is a good sean nós dancer” Uileann pipes, bag pipes played pressing on bellows Seileóg, a spit. Ní fiú seile é it’s not worth a spit under the elbow. (Uile means elbow, genitive case Seipicín, a small amount of liquid uileann) Sheebeen, a small unlicensed liquor store (Síbín) ______Shooneen, one who apes English ways (Seoinín) ______Shillelagh, a big stick Bibliography Shin shin, that’s that. (Sin sin) Dinneen, Rev. Patrick S., Focl6ir Gaedhilge agns Béarla: An Irish - English Síle na gig, a stone female statue showing bare breasts dictionary, Dublin 1927. and genitalia, found on churches and castles. Her Dolan, Terence Patrick, A Dictionary of Hiberno English. Second edition Gill exposure was to ward off the Devil. (Sile na gcíoch and Macmillan, Dublin 2006. Sheila of the breasts). Dunleavy, Janet and Gareth, Douglas Hyde; a Maker of Modern Ireland. Siulóir or shooler, an intinerant University of California Press 1991. Skelp, a slap or clatter (Sceilp) Henry, P.L., An Anglo-Irish Dialect of North Roscommon. U.C.D.,1957. Slacht, tidy, neat Mac Mathúna, Seósamh, Clare Gaelicisms, M. Print Ltd., Ennis c.1968. Slam, dirty green stuff in wells and rivers ÓMuirithe, Diarmad, Words We Use, Gill and MacMillan, Dublin 2006. Sláimín, an untidy person Philips, Matt, ‘Newfoundland’ 9-86, Canada, Lonely Planet 9th edition, Sláinte, health, cheers! 2005 Malaysia. Sleaghan, a bog spade for cutting turf Todd, Loreto, Green English: Ireland’s Influence on the English Language, Slew, a big number or large amounts. Slew is very Dublin 1999. common in the U.S.A. (Slua, a crowd, a host) Ó Corbhaigh, Pádraig, ‘An Ghaeilge’ Irish Words Used in the English of Co. Slibire, a slime from a cow showing that she is in-calf. Cavan. The heart of Breifne vol. 2, 198. Smidgeon, a small amount. (Origin obscure but could ÓMuiris, Tomás, ‘Oidhreacht Ghall-Ghaelach’. Focail Ghaeilge Ó Cheantar possibly come from smeachán) Chill Naile’. (1920 - 1940), Tipperary Historical Journal, 1990, pp. 190 - 195. Smidereens, tiny pieces (Smidiríní) Tivnan, Frank, ‘An t-Athair Tomas Ó Ceallaigh, B.A., B.D., Sligo’s Famous Soolock, dirty water (Súlach) Priest and Scholar’.The Corran Herald, Ballymote Heritage Group 1999/2000.

55 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Ballincar House, Ballincar, Co. Sligo Martin A. Timoney

as ‘Baymount Hotel’ had been applied by Mr. Sean Beirne to another hotel, beside the Silver Slipper Ballroom, in Strandhill, on the opposite side of Sligo Bay. Ballincar House was not in existence to be marked on the 187 OS 6” map and it is not referred to in the Griffith Valuation. The building possessed a fine set of diamond shaped chimneys, most likely inspired by those on 17th century Ballincar Castle, alias Cregg, which is visible to the south-west on the other side of Ballincar House, Co. Sligo, from southeast, showing the original house and the road. later extensions still in place but with additional diningroom and kitchen The structure of the house areas demolished. The forward projection of Room No. 1 on plan has been was that it was one with a left-to-right demolished so this shows the original block of the house. spine wall, a feature common around Photo: Martin A. Timoney, Spring 2003. 170. Ballincar House was a two story square building with a hipped This article is based on the structure was uncovered; the shell roof. Originally it had two rooms final archaeological report on licensed midden to the west was avoided by a either side of a central hall at ground archaeological monitoring, Licence few metres. level and the same either side of the No. 0E0112, of the demolition of Copy of the overall report has landing above, giving eight rooms Ballincar House Hotel and works on been lodged with Sligo Co. Council, in total. There may have been some the surrounding grounds in advance Sligo Co. Library Local Studies additional original rooms to the back of the complete new and very much Archive, National Monuments but these were long gone. The room larger hotel complex that we see on the Service and National Inventory of on left had been extended forward to Rosses Point Road today. Historical Architectural Heritage in Dublin. A form a bay window for a Residents’ record of the building was compiled copy with the full set of almost 50 Sitting Room. from The Valuation Office in Dublin, photographs has been lodged with The The only surviving early The Geological Survey of Ireland in Irish Architectural Archive in Merrion features of any merit were the windows Dublin, Sligo Library Local Studies Sq., Dublin. of the upstairs east front room and Archive, McTernan (2009) and in Ballincar House Hotel stood the stairs. At my insistance Ballincar person, and Mrs. Bernadette Gilbride, on a 5.5 acre site on the crest of an House was architecturally surveyed the last lady of Ballincar House and E-W glacial ridge that runs along and plans and sections were drawn by a frequent contributor to The Corran the Rosses Point peninsula. It was the clients’ agents. Under my guidance Herald. converted into an hotel starting in 1968 the exterior, interior and surroundings The research now indicates but the building was much altered and were photographically recorded by a that Ballincar House was being built in extended in the 1970s and afterwards. professional photographer taking over 1850 and had a succession of owners Its location was, by chance, in direct eighty photographs. I took further who used it as a dwelling house until line with Larkhill Rd. on the west side photos of the standing building as it 1969 when it was converted into an of Sligo Town. There was another was being gutted and of its demolition hotel after which extensions to the building called Ballincar House at which provides at least a partial record north and west gave us the maximum the east end of Ballincar townland of its construction. building that was demolished in early at the time of the 1914 OS mapping. 200 to be replaced by the much more However, McTernan (2009, 2-24) extensive present hotel. indicates that Baymount was the name RESOLVING the DATE of In all the monitoring not a in 1850 for Ballincar House. The name BALLINCAR HOUSE single archaeological find, feature or ‘Baymount’ was not used for the hotel Establishing the date of

56 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

Ballincar House was a problem that name then for Ballincar House, 190 Mathew Feeney to Maria East was occasionally addressed during and was being built in 1850 by Moses 197 Plunkett to O’Beirne after the works. No clearcut statement Monds. I have talked to McTernan 1944 O’Beirne to Maria East from any single document has come to on this point and he confirmed that his 1958 Maria East to Fraser light that dates the building. For some information is that Ballincar House 196 Fraser to Victor Douglas time I was working on the probability was under construction in 1850. This Blackwell that the building was erected between would imply that the 1860 Valuation 1968 Victor Douglas Blackwell 1877 and 1885. I now think that 1875 Office Book alteration reflects a post- to Ballincar Hotel Co.; is more likely to be the terminus post construction splitting of the property. Gilbride involved here quem. The terminus ante quem of 1885 The 1850 date ties in with the tradition, Ballincar House was was based on Ballincar House being passed on to us by Mrs. Bernadette converted into an hotel about marked on the 6” OS map, Sligo sheet Gilbride, that the construction was 1968 by Victor Blackwell and 14, of that date. The terminus post done as Famine relief work. Michael Gillbride, quem of 1875 was also based on a 6” The Registry of Deeds in OS map, Sligo sheet 14, a printing of Henrietta St., Dublin, may confirm 1875. As there are some items on this that date but that source has not been printing that could not have been on researched. Neither Baymount nor the 1st edition of 187, the railway for Ballincar House is on the 1877 6” OS instance which was opened in Sligo in map. Ballincar House is on the 1885 1862, I had wrongly assumed for some TRANSFERS of the PROPERTY 6” OS map. Ballincar House is on the years that this was a full revision of I do not recognise the presence 1910 6” OS 1:2,500 OS map where it Sheet 14. I have worked out that that of the house in the Griffith Valuation is named Baymount. This suggested this is not necessarily true and that the published in 1856. Moses Monds placing the building of Ballincar printing is essentially the 187 map was associated with the house at an House between 1877 and 1885, a with some additions. It can not be early date. Monds is mentioned in the period of less than a decade. However, used as a date marker for 1875. Griffith Valuation, 1856, as owning I have since worked out that the 1877 Not wanting to release a 28 Acres  Roods and 9 Perches in OS map is only a PARTIAL revision report with an undated building I Ballincar townland with a valuation of the 188 OS map and so that dating resorted to the Valuation Office in of £44 being made up of £2 for land can not be taken as correct. Dublin as a potential source of a and £12 for buildings. Only two other solution. This was visited and Plot 4 houses in this townland had high of Ballincar townland on their maps values approaching that of this house; Table II is the relevant one. The data for this John Wynne had a house valued at John C. McTernan published plot was extracted from the seven £1-10-0 and an unoccupied house The Light of Bygone Years: 1, Houses Valuation Books to establish the was valued at £10. There were several of Sligo and Associated Families; 2, sequence of owners and that is given other houses of high value in this, even Sligo Families – Chronicles of Sixty below. Nothing obvious jumped out then, much sought after townland. Families Past and Present just before of the data to establish a secure date Christmas 2009. This is a major work for Ballincar House. Table I on the houses and families of Co. The earliest Valuation Book 19th CENTURY ORDNANCE Sligo based on a dedicated lifetime of is for 1855 and there is an entry in SURVEY MAPPING OF research. From that work (McTernan the name of Moses Monds for that BALLINCAR 2009, I, 2-24) the following has been year for Plot 4. The Valuation Books In 200 Listing at the extracted. are updated as needs be and the Assessment /Application stage I made revisions are done in varying colours the following listing. This list of Landlord: Owen Wynne which help indicate the date of the owners was compiled with the help of 1850 Moses Monds change; that is when you figure out Mrs. Bernadette Gilbride of Ballincar building Sea Lodge, = Ballincar the system. In 1860 an entry is made House Hotel, and from the Valuation House indicating that Plot 4 was split into Books and Valuation Maps in the 185 £1,020 valuation two lots, Plot 4 of reduced size and Valuation Office in Dublin. 185 Edward Jones a new Plot 25. There is a temptation leased the house to see this as an indication of the date 1897 Owen Wynne to Henry Lyons 1864 Thomas H. Nelson of the house. However, McTernan 1912 Henry Lyons to John Tighe 1877 John Pettigrew (2009, 2-24) provides information 1927 John Tighe to William May 1890 Henry Lyons, Jr., JP that indicates that Baymount, the 1929 William May to Mathew Feeney 19xx Jeremiah McCarthy

57 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

leased the house here, and an avenue was also provided brick but with limestone where the 1912 John Tighe north to Ballincar House. I have not chimney flues were. The spine wall 1927 William Maye got the date of any of these ‘better’ was arched over the central hall and Charles Roycroft East houses though there were buildings the landing. James Arthur Fraser at all three locations, Kildonagh, Only the west wing, dating to 1962 for sale Rossaville and Cherry Lodge, in 187. 1968-1969, of the hotel was retained 1964 Victor Douglas Blackwell Rossaville, between Kildonagh and to be incorporated into the new hotel; Michael Gilbride Cherry Lodge, should not be confused all other parts of the structure were 1969 as a Hotel with Roseville, less than a mile to demolished and the foundations 2000 Bernard Mullin & Michael the east at the E side of Ballincar cleared. Mullholland townland. 200 Demolition by JJ Rhatigan FOUNDATIONS OF BALLINCAR Construction of Hotel DEMOLITION HOUSE Bought by Radison The demolition of the Some information on the Name changed to Radison house on 5th February 200 was foundations of Ballincar House was Blue photographically recorded by myself gained from clearance of the space with seventy photos taken. The under the building. Here there was Table III a dry red-brown soil but there was Valuation Office Documents: Extracted in late 2009 nothing of archaeological interest in Griffith Valuation Map: Base map is 1856; Copy has addition of Parliamentary Boundary added in and dated 1870 it. I concluded that the topsoil had Book Number Occupier Immediate Lessor been removed prior to the building 1 4a Edward Jones Moses Monds 1 4b Moses Monds John Wynne of Ballincar House. The foundation 1 25A Moses Monds of the E-W spine wall was a packing 1 25B Moses Monds of stones up to 15 cm across; these 2 4a Edward Jones Moses Monds 3 4 John Pettigrew Owen Wynne foundations were 85 cm deep and less 3 4 Henry Lyons Owen Wynne than a metre wide. The foundations 4 4 Henry Lyons In Fee (LAP) of the N-S walls were of much larger 4 4 John Tighe 5 4 John Tighe Owen Wynne stones, up to 45 cm across, and went 5 4 William Maye to a depth of not more than 75 cm. 5 4 Maria East 6 4 Maria East Owen Wynne 7 4 James Arthur Frazer STORM WATER PIPE ALONG 8 4a James Arthur Frazer THE MAIN ROAD 8 4a John Clarke Victor Douglas Blackwell 8 4b Victor Douglas Blackwell The trench for the storm water pipe along the recently re-aligned Sligo to Rosses Point Rd. for a distance of architectural survey and an album of just under a kilometre from the hotel This places on record the the 346 photos are included in the final to the small Teesan River that enters sequence of owners / occupiers of the report for the appropriate archives. the sea between Ballincar and Cregg property. Clarity may be found in the It was hoped before access townlands to the west of the hotel was documents preserved in the Registry to the attic was achieved that some monitored over several days. This of Deeds in Dublin but that long haul information might be gained from the road was newly laid some years ago I leave to others. structure of the chimney-stacks. The by the County Council and a shell There was a chicken farm stacks disintegrated on being touched midden close to the line for the pipe here at one time and the house may by the machine. trench was cut through at the time of also have been used as a convent for The original front doorway the construction of the new line for a while; we were advised to watch for had been severely altered by the works the road. There is a C14 date of about buried statues but none were found. for the hotel over the decades and no 1,200 BC, the Middle to Later Bronze There had been considerable information on its nature was gained; Age transition, from this midden. As changes of alignment of the road to regretably there was no date-stone part of our works I ensured that the Rosses Point in this area. The road and nothing to indicate a date for the midden was protected by fresh clay had been moved northwards several building. but no archaeological find, feature or fields. Long avenues were provided The fabric of the house was structure was uncovered at or close leading south to the ‘better’ houses, of rubble limestone and brick with a to the midden as the ground here had Kildonagh, Rossaville and Cherry facing of limestone. The E-W left to been lowered during the previous road Lodge, along the old line of the road right spine wall was mainly of red works.

58 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

the joint owner of Ballincar House Hotel. Some of the early photos are courtesy of Mrs. Bernadette Gilbride. These include Michael and Bernadette Gilbride and Victor Blackwell. Mr. Noel Kennedy, Farnaherpy, was employed to photographically record the building before gutting.

Bibliography Gallagher, Fiona, 2008: Streets of Sligo, Urban Evolution over the Course of Seven Centuries, Sligo, Gallagher. Ballincar House, Co. Sligo. Rooms 1 to 6 were on the ground floor; Rooms Griffith Valuation 7 to 13 were at first floor level. The forward projection of room 1 was a McTernan John C., 2009: The Light later addition. These floor plans are extracted from overall architectural of Bygone Years: 1, Houses record of the building by Access Building Design, Galway. That full of Sligo and Associated record is available at Sligo Library Local Studies Archive and the Irish Families; 2, Sligo Families Architectural Archive in Dublin. – Chronicles of Sixty Families central seated figure, and members of Past and Present. PHOTOGRAPHS the staff in 1969. OS Maps The architectural and [5] A Black and White Timoney, Martin A., “Ballincar photographic record of Ballincar probably mid-1970s view, taken for House, Ballincar, Co. Sligo: House was included with the report. promotion purposes by a Dundalk 0E0112”, Excavations The ‘before, during and after’ photographer, from right or east of Bulletin 2003, 40, #1611. photographic record of Ballincar the front entrance looking towards Valuation Office Books, Valuation includes about three hundred and Ballincar House Hotel. Office, Irish Life Centre, fifty photos. There are photos of [6] Ballincar 17th century Abbey St., Dublin 1 the exterior and interior of Ballincar house, showing the distinctive House, the attic and the interior of the diamond-shaped chimneys which roof, of the demolition of the house inspired the chimneys on Ballincar and of the ground underneath. House in the mid-19th Century and were ‘replicated’ on the 200 EARLY PHOTOS OF BALLINCAR building. HOUSE Some early photos came to Acknowledgements notice over the last seven years. I thank the developers Bernard [1] From the collection Mullin and Michael Mulholland, the of Mr. Brian Curran, who lives personnel of J.J. Rhatigan, namely Ger opposite Ballincar House Hotel, and Roynane, Jerimiah Haladyn, Michael is reproduced from McTernan (2009, Prendergast and Patrick Regan, the I, 2). This shows Ballincar House earth moving contractors, both John as it was before any extension for Mullane and his men and Alec Norris hotel purposes was built, the earliest and his men, various members of the extension of which was by 1967. staff of Sligo Co. Co. and Sligo Library [2] From under a tree showing Local Studies Archive in Bridge the front of the complex with the 1969 St., various members of the staff of west extension in place. Dúchas as it was then known, the staff [] Michael and Bernadette of the National Library of Ireland, the Gilbride, former owners, about 1985. Geological Survey of Ireland and the [4] The Dining Room with Valuation Office and Mrs. Bernadette former owner Victor Blackwell, the Gilbride, whose husband Michael was

59 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 James Daly, Editor & Proprietor of the Connaught Telegraph, Land War activist and the most undeservedly forgotten man in Irish history.

Nancy Smyth

James Daly was born in 188 in Cloonabina, Boghadoon, near Lehardaun, Crossmolina, Co. Mayo. He was the eldest son of a well to do and prosperous family, known locally for their farming and trading connections. He was educated at Errew monastery, outside Castlebar, by the Franciscans. He was intelligent, tall and handsome. In 1869 at the age of 1 years, Daly won a seat on the Castlebar Board of Guardians in the Breaffy district and five years later he succeeded to his father’s seat for the Litterbrick division in the Ballina union. He remained At the James Daly commemoration ceremony in Castlebar were four active in local politics until his death. generations of his descendants: His grand daughter Sheila Daly (second In 1876 Daly, with Alfred O’Hea, from right), Sheila’s nephew Neil Mongey, Neil’s daughters Orla (beside purchased the ailing Mayo Telegraph/ him) and Niamh, and Orla’s son Tiernan. Picture courtesy Neil Mongey Connaught Ranger from the family of Landlord”. He advised them to organise a mass Frederick Cavendish and changed its He continually used his paper to meeting to highlight their grievance name to the Connaught Telegraph. He highlight injustices. For elections and he would cover it in the paper. The used the paper to highlight the problems Daly recommended polling booths in meeting was to be held in February, of the day. When Gladstone arrived in dispensaries and police barracks for a but the guest speaker John O’Connor Ireland in 1877, he called on him to secret ballot, as a way of wiping out Power was not available, so it was visit the Mitchelstown estate to see the intimidation of the tenant farmer by postponed until 20 April. Daly helped failure of the Land Act of 1870. the landlord when casting his vote. with the organising and had posters The leadership of James Daly was 1876-82 was a period of agrarian printed. The result of the protest was necessary in the promotion and agitation in Ireland. It was a time of the manager reduced the rent by 25%. development of the Tenants’ Defence economic crisis due to bad weather, The success of the meeting showed Association in the west, and was the low crop yield and poor prices, while that by peaceful protest, they could foundation on which the Land League the agrarian groups had land reform as succeed in their aim. Until the end of was built. His main objective was their agenda. the Land War in 1882 the policy was the improvement of the conditions of The Tenant Defence meeting in peaceful protest and the introduction the small tenant farmers by means of Irishtown on 20th April 1879 was the of Boycotting. peasant proprietorship. He used his spark that lit the fuse for land reform. He was the only Land Leaguer to position as editor of the Connaught The immediate occasion was provided give a statement of evidence to the Telegraph to promote the work of the by the attempt by Rev. Canon Geoffrey Bessborough Commission in 1880, on Tenant Defence Association and then Bourke to put pressure on the tenants the operation of the “Landlord and the Land League. He kept his readers for arrears of rent. Rev. Bourke’s Tenant (Ireland) Act 1870.” He was informed, urging them to unite. He brother Walter had died in 187, his responsible for organising the Irishtown challenged the land lords and when son Captain Joseph Bourke was serving meeting in 1879, and played a very necessary the clergy. in India and Rev. Bourke, while being important part in the Land League. In the Connaught Telegraph of 10th the local parish priest and living in the Daly’s contribution to land reform has February 1877, two years before the family home of Oldtown cottage, also not yet been fully acknowledged. forming of the Land League, Daly managed the estate. Daly died on 22nd March 1911 and wrote “If we are ever to achieve the When he found his tenants were in to mark the centenary of his death right to live in happiness and comfort arrears in their rents, he threatened them there was a wreath-laying ceremony on our own soil we must speak and act with eviction. They went to Daly of the at his grave in the Old Cemetery in like men and give up that wretched Connaught Telegraph at the January Castlebar at 5.30pm on Tuesday 22nd subservience which has kept us like quarter-session in Claremorris asking March 2011. whipped hounds at the feet of the him to highlight the matter in the paper.

60 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

Carrowcullen House: From Family Home to Convent to Hermitage.

Martin Wilson

The double parish of Skreen and Dromard is the most easterly parish in the barony of Tiereragh and the Diocese of Killala. The parish of Dromard is bounded on its eastern side by the parish of Ballisodare; the parish of Skreen is bounded by Templeboy. It is overlooked by the Ox Mountains on its southern side and faces the Atlantic Ocean to the North. The main Ballina-Sligo road passes through it. Dromard (meaning high ridge) takes its name from the elevated position of its old church on the slopes of the Ox Mountains. It has 41 townlands and 7417 acres. Skreen stretches from the sea to the summit of the Ox Mountains at this point (Knockalongy

perhaps 1840-1850, by the Guilfoyle family who were Catholic landlords, originally from Co. Tipperary. Anthony Guilfoyle died in 1920 and left in his will £,000 to be given in charity, preferably to a religious community. Mrs Guilfoyle did not wish to live in Carrowcullen after her husband’s death and, in order to dispose of the house and 25 acres of land surrounding the property, she offered the £,000 to the Reverend mother of the Sisters of Mercy convent in Ballina on the condition that she buy the house and land for £2,000. Holy Hill is on a prominent site with Dr. James Naughton Bishop of Killala 1778 ft high). Skreen, once the home commanding views of the surrounding gave permission to accept the terms. of Daithi the High King of Ireland, countryside and the Atlantic Ocean. On October 21st 1921 three sisters has 47 townlands and 1,2 acres. The Ox Mountains and the Ladies were sent to Skreen. Leaving a large The church of Skreen was founded in Brae in the background make this a house and community in Ballina and the seventh century by St. Adamnan unique and sheltered location. It’s a settling in and setting up in a small who died in 704. Skreen takes its place of tranquillity and peace with community in a remote area at the foot name from the Latin word scrinium birdsong and the sound of the river of the Ox Mountains must have been (meaning shrine) because in it was flowing through the woods being no easy task for the sisters. Life in the deposited Adamnan’s shrine for safe the only interruption to the silence. country at that time was difficult and keeping after a Norse raid on Iona. The Down Survey parish map of by today’s standards quite primitive. In the parish of Skreen, just off 1650 shows that the lands were owned There was no electricity, no heating, the main Ballina-Sligo road in the by Edward Crofton of the nearby no transport, no phone, and no radio. townland of Leacarrow, is Holy Hill Longford House. The house is not But these sisters, in the true spirit of Hermitage. Known locally as Skreen marked on the 188 OS map so it would their founder Sr Catherine McCauley, Convent or Carrowcullen house, have been constructed after this date, with a deep faith and trust in God’s

61 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 providence set about their task of drove the sisters to school in a pony the responsibility of looking after and caring for a large property, the now elderly remaining sisters had no option but to declare their intent to vacate Skreen Convent and return to their base in Ballina after 7 years service to their beloved adopted parish of Skreen. Once more Carrowcullen House faced an uncertain future. On leaving, the nuns did indicate that, like the Guilfoyle family before them, they would prefer if a religious presence could be maintained in the property. They handed the keys over to Bishop Finnegan who went in search of someone to take over the property. In 1994 he contacted the Spiritual Life Institute, a contemplative order of Carmelite monks from North America, to come and inspect the buildings with a view to opening a monastery here. establishing a Mercy Community and trap; he had his own quarters in The hermits liked what they saw. in Skreen. It survived for 7 years. one of the out-buildings in the yard. They were overcome by the beauty They set up a commercial school With the arrival of rural electrification of the surrounding countryside and and also taught music. A retired to Skreen in 1951 living standards even though they knew the buildings priest was appointed chaplain in began to improve for the nuns, as they were not ideal, requiring much work 1922. The ballroom was converted did for the wider community. New to restore and adapt to their needs, into an oratory and the sisters had modern conveniences like washing they took on the daunting task. the blessing of a daily Mass in the machines, fridges, electric heaters They restored Carrowcullen to house. On Sundays they were joined and irons made life much easier. its former glory. They re-roofed, by the locals for a public Mass. The parish of Skreen owes a debt renovated and restored the courtyard In 1924 they were put in care of the of gratitude to the Mercy Sisters. which had been neglected for twenty local Ross national school and thus They visited the sick and housebound, five years. On the surrounding land began the Mercy Sisters’ involvement and they attended to the dying. They they built ten new hermitages in in primary education in Skreen. They were responsible for the setting up secluded locations. Each monk-hermit continued to teach in Ross until the of Community Care, they helped to lives in an individual hermitage. school closed in 1970, and in Ballinlig organise the Pioneer Total Abstinence They generate their income from until 1990 when the last of the teaching Association, the church choir, Scór people from all over the world who sisters was transferred to Ballina. na nÒg, the local youth club, drama come here on retreat to get away The farm, which was part of the club, charity walks, and craft classes. from it all. These retreatants, as they Guilfoyle estate, was looked after by The changes of Vatican II and greater are known, live the life of the monks. the nuns with the help of a resident mobility through having their own They stay in a hermitage, do daily workman and the neighbours. The car combined to change the lifestyle chores, chop wood, and tend the neighbours always helped with of the community considerably in gardens while enjoying the peace and haymaking and other chores and were the 1970s. However in the 1990s all solitude of this very special place. always available to offer advice on was to change because of a fall off in The monks also take school retreats, farming matters. The workman also vocations to the religious life. With give retreats around the country, produce magazines, write books and prepare CDs of songs and reflection. They have an open Sunday on the first Sunday of every month for the public to share Mass with them. When the Mercy Order decided, reluctantly, to leave Carrowcullen House it faced an uncertain future. Due to the foresight of one man and the determination of a small community of hardworking people these beautiful old buildings, part of our heritage, have been saved. Their priority at all times was that the restoration would be sympathetic, and that nothing would be changed or altered, only enhanced and improved where possible. 62 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Music and the Megaliths Lynda Hart

If you go to Carrowmore instruments that have been found intricate part of the Flamenco. Megalithic Cemetery today what within the European context are The loudness, speed and type of do you hear? The sounds of nature, thought to be closely associated clapping all told part of the story, birds and animals and the sounds with rock art that is often found in and held much significance for of today, cars, planes, and you the same places, the music mixing both the dancer and the guitarist. might even hear the odd tour guide! with the visual art adding to the Then during the summer as a But what would you have heard experience. Igor Reznikoff of the fan of soccer I was saddened to 6,000 years ago? What sounds University of Paris says ‘The most hear of the death of Sir Bobby accompanied the ceremonies acoustically resonant place in a Robson, a good player, and and rituals at these places? cave, where the sound lingers and an excellent manager both at Of any musical instruments resonates the most, is often the club and international level. played, little remains, as these place where the art is densest’. And Usually upon the death of a would have been delicate organic even the most inaccessible places person involved within football materials that have not survived that had good acoustics were a minute’s silence is held at the journey through the millennia. marked with a smear of red paint. grounds throughout England. This The oldest recorded musical Although unlikely to have has never been satisfactory due instruments are bone flutes found been built for their acoustics, to an element within the crowd in caves in Germany and France, some passage tombs, especially who would decide they simply their origins being about 5-40 the larger ones that are very couldn’t or wouldn’t keep silent. thousand years ago. The oldest of cave-like in their construction, But on the first day of the football these flutes were made from the have acoustic properties. season 2009, a different approach radius bone of the Whooper swans. Aaron Walsh, an archaeologist was taken. At one minute to three This led me to think of the ancestors and David Keating, an acoustics at every Premiership ground in and how they viewed migration. expert, have carried out the country there was a minute’s We know that Whooper swans experiments at Newgrange. clapping. And it was incredible. All like many other birds migrate and Various tests were conducted in could take part, from the smallest we know where they go, but to our both the chamber and the passage ball boy to Roman Abramovich, ancestors these strange large birds including humming, banging and no one could spoil it. I was disappeared only to return just as drums and playing amplified amazed at the emotion that a large mysteriously at a latter time. Where waves of sound at the stones. group of people could generate did they go? To the land of the The strange acoustics experienced doing something as simple as ancestor? And if so, by fashioning at Newgrange and at other clapping their hands together. musical instruments from the passage tombs may have been At the monuments the clapping bones of these birds could they too exploited by those conducting could have been accompanied communicate with their ancestors? the ceremonies and rituals. by drumming, at first a flat Closer to home, during an So what music might have stone stuck by sticks. Later a archaeological dig in County been heard at Listoghill, stretched skin placed over a Wicklow in 200, six wooden pipes the central monument at simple frame could have created were discovered. These six pipes Carrowmore 6,000 years ago? a drum reminiscent of a bodhrán. were not joined but are thought Well, it would have been rhythmic. Rhythmic drumming along to be a set. They lack finger holes Clapping is a very powerful with clapping and chanting may and they may have been played method of communication. During have been used to induce trances. more like panpipes. They are the past year this has been brought Drumming continued to be an made from yew wood and were to my attention by two events. integral part of ceremonies and used about 4,000 years ago. Initial Firstly while in Spain, I attended a rituals, and still continues to experiments indicate that the pipes lecture on the history, the make-up do so. In Padstow, Cornwall on generate the notes E Flat, A Flat and the origins of Flamenco, both May 1st each year a large drum and F Natural. The exact method of the guitar playing and the dancing. is beaten continuously from construction is yet to be established. It became very obvious during dawn to late evening in a very The flutes and other bone the evening that clapping was an evocative pagan fertility ritual.

6 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

With the arrival of agriculture, remains of nine lyres and three with a Megalithic mountain. animal horns and bones would harps dated to the third millennium And so the ancestors who walked have been used to create sounds BC. These lyres found at Ur around the platform at Listoghill and would have been easy to seem to have been unique to the may have clapped and chanted, construct. A small hole drilled Sumerian civilization. They were clicked stones together and sung. into the side of the closed end of large and cumbersome with up They could have summoned a huge a cow horn would have provided to eleven strings and were highly range of emotions and moods. If an adequate mouthpiece. These decorated with gold and jewels. this was a religion it was probably simple horn instruments are still The earliest recorded Irish highly complex and organised. traditionally used in the Basque harpers were therefore heirs to The music and rhythms played Country. A pair of curved lengths an ancient tradition stretching may have been strictly dictated of cow ribs could be fashioned into back to a Pre Christian people with different sections of the a percussion instrument capable of whose roots ultimately lie in the community responsible for producing a fast rhythmic clicking earliest Bronze Age civilisations. different elements of the rituals. sound, an instrument which In more modern times music has Music always has been and is still sometimes seen today. echoed the megaliths. Si Beag, Si always will be a method of During the Bronze Age Mor is a direct example of a tune communication and of emotional large spectacular bronze horns inspired by the megaliths. They stimulation, whether for spiritual were used to create haunting are two hills just north of Carrick- or everyday life. All important sounds that reverberated on Shannon. Si Beag is a portal events are marked with music: through the countryside. dolmen, Si Mór a six metre high birth and death, ritual and At the same time that Newgrange flat-topped cairn located nearby. ceremonial, triumph or defeat. was being constructed 5,000 The song tells of the rivalry Whether it is rising the blood of years ago, in Eastern Europe and between the two monuments. a warrior readying him for war, or Western Asia stringed instruments Sliabh na mBan is associated with bringing a tear to the eye with a were being played. Among the sidhe who are the monuments, beautiful haunting melody, music artefacts found in burial chambers and the Kesh jig might be cited as links us to our ancestors. at Ur in Mesopotamia were the another example of a tune associated TO BE LET

TO BE LET

From the 25th of MARCH next

For such term as maybe agreed on,

THE HOUSE AND LANDS OF DRIMRANE

Containing about 40 Arable Acres and 60 Acres of Bog, in the Parish of Clonohill, Barony of Carron, and County of Sligo, within two miles of Ballymote and twelve of Sligo. The house is in good repair, containing Parlour and Drawing Room, four Bedrooms, with Servants Apartments, a good Coachouse and stabling for ten Horses. The tenant can have excellent Shooting and Fishing. Application to be made to JOHN TAAFE, Esq,. Drimrane, Ballymote.

The furniture can be had at a Valuation.

This advert appeared in The Sligo Journal in 1841. It was submitted by John Taaffe who was also known as “Mad Jack”. This advert appeared in The Sligo Journal in 1841. It was submitted by John Taaffe who was He lived for some timealso known in Abbeyville as “Mad Jack”. where He livedhe owned for some a timefarm, in Abbeyvillehe was subsequently where he owned evicted a farm, fromhe there and moved to was subsequently evicted from there and moved to Drimrane, where Mrs Margaret Reynolds Drimrane, where Mrsnow Margaret lives. Reynolds now lives.

Taaffe married a lady from Staffordshire England and they had two daughters. Mrs Taaffe Taaffe married a ladydied from in Jersey Staffordshire at the age of England 25 in 1846. and John they Taaffe had owned two daughters. a large part ofMrs the TaaffeOx mountains. died in Jersey at the age of 25 He helped to build the church at Lough Talt. He is buried in the old cemetery in Emlafad in 1846. John TaaffeBallymote. owned a large part of the Ox mountains. He helped to build the church at Lough Talt. He is buried in the old cemetery Suppliedin Emlafad by Padraig Ballymote. Doddy. Supplied by Padraig Doddy. 64 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 The Megalithic Cemetery, Carrowmore

Bernie Gilbride

With world travel now the norm, I have the layout - which covers a wide area, appear they believed in an ‘Afterlife’ been lucky enough over the past few approximately one square kilometre, - hence the elaborate graves. We know years to visit some ancient sites all over stretching north-south with about 60 our ancestors worshipped the Sun and Europe - in Italy, Greece, Spain, Croatia tombs remaining today. Originally there the Moon, and were very knowledgeable and Slovenia and have found myself were about 200 tombs, but over the about the universe; Newgrange in fascinated with the history unfolding years quarrying and land clearance have Meath, part of the ‘Bru na Boinne’ area, before me on those sites. Their buildings, destroyed many. The stones from the has been thought to have some form that have endured for many thousands of cairns were used to build dividing walls of religious significance, particularly years, their columns, so ornamental and for fields. The monuments are built of in regard to the ‘Afterlife,’ because it tall, still standing, monuments - though crude glacial boulders torn loose from the is aligned with the ‘rising sun on the roofless - to the craftsmen that erected surrounding mountains during the last Winter Solstice’, which floods the tomb them. The roadways, streets, even their glaciations and spread all over the area with light. Were they, our Carrowrnore gardens, portray a way of life not all that like meteors. Fortunately a preservation ancestors, part of that religion too? different to ours of today. The people, order now covers the whole site and so How did they dress? In sheep skins who could then erect such magnificent we can guarantee it will be handed on, as or leather? Had they the skill to ‘cure’ monuments, and they must have been it now is, to future generations. Outside animal pelts? Had they mastered the truly magnificent when new, without the central part various monuments art of weaving the wool, had they modern equipment, baffle me with their occur, mainly to the north and altogether even had sheep? Had they grown flax ingenuity. I begin to think, maybe they 45 sites are still situated in that area. for linen or had all that still to come? had even better equipment than ours, Our guide drew our attention to the Did they sing or dance? What the history of which has been lost down significance of the tombs in relation form of entertainment had they? the centuries. How can one be sure this to the landscape, from Maedbh’s What instruments had they if any? is not true after so many millennia? Cairn on the top of Knocknarea, to Is it from them we Irish have such a So, imagine my surprise and delight Cairns hill on the east of Sligo town, wealth and love of song and dance? on visiting the Megalithic Cemetery and the alignment of the tombs with What games did they play? An of Carrowmore, Co. Sligo recently, mountaintops in the surrounding ranges. early form of hurling perhaps, one on a fabulous Saturday afternoon, The tombs are, for the most part, of the most skilful of sports even to and discovering that here, at my own multi sites, having been re-used and this day. We know Chucullan used a backdoor, was the remains of an even sometimes re-built over time. The sliothar and hurl to great advantage. more ancient civilisation who have excavated tombs show complete central What did they eat? Fish to be sure, left us this large ancient graveyard. chambers, surrounded by boulder as many shells and fish bones were As we left Strandhill that evening, circles, some built of more than 100 uncovered during the excavations of on the spur of the moment we boulders while others have only 20 - sites. Did they roast their animals for decided to turn right and go round by 0 boulders remaining in their circles. consumption over a spit in the open or Culleenamore. This is a most scenic Site 51 Listoghil is one of the more bury them over hot coals? One thing for route with the sweep of the Atlantic into important sites, the chamber of which sure they must have been very strong Ballisodare Bay and the Ox Mountains is a rectangular cist, covered with a flat with a great sense of community. The as a backdrop on our right, the town of limestone roof-slab, which our guide only way to find the answer to even some Sligo at our feet, lordly Benbulbin to thought came from ‘The Glen’ a couple of those queries is to - ‘Surf the Net’. the north, a fabulous valley surrounded of miles away, at the foot of Knocknarea, Speaking of the Internet, I wonder what by mountains. Travelling along under part of the actual Knocknarea hill they would make of it and of our world Knocknarea we came upon a signpost itself. This roof-slab, the front of today, with its modem communications, for what we call the ‘Cromleachs’ and which is ornamented with megalithic its instant knowledge of the happenings so began one of the most interesting art, rested on seven large boulders, all around the globe. Instant pictures and fascinating site visits for me. some of which have traces of ancient too, bringing, through television, so Not since childhood had we bothered ‘Ogham’ writing on them. Originally much into our living rooms - wars, to visit this ancient burial ground, so this site had measured approx. 120 ft. in sufferings, tsunamis, earthquakes, near our home, though on Continental diameter, with a cairn about 50ft. high. and floods. But also such marvellous holidays ancient sites drew us to them Standing as it does, at the centre of the achievements -- landings on the moon, as magnets. Here we found the Office graveyard, it commands a view across spaceships taking off and returning. of Public Works had been busy over Ballisodare Bay on the south, to Sligo All the wonders of modem travel. Now the years since we had been there. Now harbour and Benbulbin on the north. that’s where I came in and it’s a good we have a lovely Visitors’ Centre at As we walked the grassy paths I began to time for me to finish. I must start to the entrance with pictures and maps of wonder about the people who had buried ‘Surf the Net’ and learn something of the cemetery, showing the whole area, their dead here. What sort of people those fascinating people who buried giving an understanding of what we are were they? Were they tall or small? Fat their dead, all those millennia ago, in about to visit, a reception area with some or thin? Peaceful or aggressive? They the beautiful and now sacred Megalithic books relevant to the Site and lucky for certainly appeared to respect and honour Cemetery of Carrowmore, Co. Sligo. us - a guided tour just about to begin. their dead as the cemetery indicates. Our guide began by introducing us to What ‘Gods’ did they worship? It would

65 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 The Church of Aughanagh/Aghanagh

Clare Walsh

The church of Aghanagh was one of not be able to pass the ford and that O’Rourke was coming the bell itself the first erected in Sligo. According anyone of the name of O’Rourke who started ringing in warning but the man to Tirechan (Book of Armagh) it was would pass over the ford would meet in charge angrily told it to stop its founded by St. Patrick. He placed with a sudden death. cackle as it would attract O’Rourke to Bishop Maneus and Gentene over it. This tradition has lived on to the the spot. The bell was so offended that There is a tradition in the parish that present century. People of the name it never again uttered a note. Tobar when Bishop Maneus was building O’Rourke when going to the fairs in Maine (= Maneus) is on the right side the church the O’Rourke of the day, Boyle went on the old road by the of the mail coach road opposite the having heard of the work, was coming Church of Ireland rather than the mail present graveyard. The stream passes to stop it. When Maneus heard this coach road which crossed the stream. under the road at this spot. he prayed that the angry chief would Part of the tradition was that when Jack Perry 16.5.1927 – 17.11.2010 John Berchmans Perry, known especially horses. Like his brothers throughout his lifetime as Jack, was Josie and Al, he was a respected born in Cloonacleigha, Bunninadden, breeder and judge of horses and took on 16th of May 1927. Jack was always great pride in breeding prize winning proud of his deep roots in Bunninadden horses at local and national horse and Killaville, the place where shows, including the RDS. He was his mother was born. He had fond happiest when surrounded by “horse memories of his time in Carrowreagh men” at a horse fair in Ballinasloe, or National School. He took great pride at the annual horse show in Millstreet, in the area and had a deep knowledge buying, selling and talking about of local families and their connections. horses. He could trace his own family roots He was an independent man, intensely in Cloonacleigha back through many proud of his family. Like many men and generations to 1820. women of his generation he coped with As a young man, Jack served his difficulties and setbacks with courage time in his uncle’s business, Hunts of and perseverance. He spoke with much Ballinacarrow, who were in the Bar and fondness of all the great characters Grocery trade. He always spoke with that he encountered throughout his great fondness of the late Pat Hunt his established a travelling shop business in life, and of people who influenced and first cousin. From there, Jack went to the 1950s and subsequently a successful inspired him; people like the late Tom Banbridge and served his time working retail business in Ballymote. He also Scully, a first cousin of his father, and in the business of his uncle John Hunt established an undertaking business in others whom he greatly admired over who was in the bar and grocery trade in Ballymote in 195. He took great pride the years. the County Down town. Jack returned in his work as an undertaker and in his Jack is survived and deeply regretted to Ballymote to take up employment in professionalism and attention to detail by his sisters, Margaret McDermott of Meme Begley’s Bar in the late 1940s. he set a high standard for others to Bunninadden and Sr.Rosario of The The theatre/cinema in Ballymote follow. He went on to establish one of Little Company of Mary, Castletroy, opened around this time and Jack the first taxi/hackney businesses in the Limerick; by his sons, Michael and recounted fascinating stories about area. In his later years he recalled how John, Ballymote, and Ivan, Cork; his the luminaries of the day and stars of as a young man in his early twenties he daughters Catherine, London, and the shows who came back to Begley’s bought two cars from Ford’s assembly Regina, Mullingar; his daughters- Bar after a performance in the theatre. line in Cork. He had vivid memories of in-law, Bridgie, Marie and Mary, his He also recalled how on Court days in the long and arduous journey with two grandchildren, nieces and nephews, Ballymote, the Court Judge was catered brand new cars, driving in low gear and his many cousins and friends. for in a special room in Begley’s. He from Cork to Ballymote. recalled with great affection the late Despite his many business ventures Cast a cold eye on life, on death. PF (Pax) Begley, whom he regarded as he was at heart a farmer. He loved and Horseman, pass by –WB Yeats a man ahead of his time. had a great feeling for all animals, Ar Dheis Dé go raibh a anam dílis. Starting out on his own, Jack

66 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 The Fair Of Baldwin Clare Walsh

The fair of Baldwin (Castlebaldwin) continent. from the farm loft, where they were was established in 1712 by Sr. Henry By 1850 the market in Baldwin had kept. Nicholson. A market was held on ceased and by 1900 there were only 2 The morning after John Weir tried to Wednesday and four fairs – 2rd May, fairs, 4th June and rd November. These cut the tree, two wooden crosses were 16th July, 26th August and 20th October, also died out. During the emergency found beside it. One of these crosses with an additional day after each fair. period 199-1945 the local branch of was in the possession of a family near Tolls or Custom was levied. At first Muintir Na Tire tried to revive the fair Geevagh up to recent times but is now it was one penny per animal but later but did not succeed. missing. It may have decayed as when it was increased and the tolls gate At one time a pattern (patron) was last seen it had woodworm in it. could be bought. The first day was held at the three holy wells: Tobar The Old Road continued from for buying and selling livestock: this Bridget, Tobar Padraig and Tobar Hollybrook, through Lillybrook past fair had a good name for cattle. The Muire but this was stopped by the White’s old house, then by Drumdoney second day was stalls, standings, trick first priest of Ballyrush as many past Hever’s old house, by the back of the loops and faction fights. All superstitious practices had crept in. of Mullaghrainne. It passed through the youth, boys and girls came on the John Weir and his son lived in Brickeen and Baldwin and continued second day dressed in their Sunday Cloghogue at this time (the remains of as today by Ballyrush Hall. best. Each stall holder had their his house is still there). He had a mill The mill on the river near Brickeen own “cry” for their wares; 50 years on the river, the remains of which was was worked by Pat Tymon. At the ago many people could recall them there until recent times. time of the Cholera epidemic, he and but now they are all lost except one: There was an ash tree growing at one his wife went to Sligo to sell corn and “Herrings, fresh herrings, all alive of the wells which would suit part of eggs. They contracted the disease and bleeding fresh from Sligo Bay”. the mill. He and his son came at night died within 24 hours. The kiln near There was a clock in the area which to cut it. As they commenced cutting the mill was at first for corn drying, had a loud chime and could be heard a light left the tree – tradition says later it was used for lime burning. on the green. On one occasion when it went to Lasser. When they were The name is still a land mark. it struck 12 o’clock and things were about half way into the tree they found peaceful some one remarked “12 it impossible to cut. They attached o’clock and not a stroke struck in ropes and harnessed a horse to pull Baldwin” where upon an old woman but the horse fell dead with the strain. threw a stone and hit her husband to They left the tree and it remained start the fray. half cut for some years. One severe It would appear that faction fights winter when fuel was scarce two were a regular occurrence but no members of the Walsh family cut the details have survived. tree. When they put the blocks on the There was also another “game” or fire they noticed blue flames coming “sport”. It was considered equal to from it, then they noticed writing on wrestling or boxing. It was promoted the timber. The blocks were removed by the gentry and bets were placed. from the fire and when placed together Two strong men opposed each other. revealed a vacant circle. The sides of They held a stick of certain dimensions the circle were a bright brown colour in one hand. The other hand was held and the writing black - like poker behind their back. The stick was held work - +’’’+’’’+’’’+. There were four in a certain position in the hand with crosses with three groups of letters. the thumb uppermost. It took skill The blocks were shown to educated and accuracy to hit the opponent. It people but they never could decipher was thought that this “game” was the writing. Some thought it was derived from the “sword play” on the Greek. The blocks later disappeared

67 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 The Stile Kathleen Fairbanks

On a bright May morning long ago, when first you were my bride. The corn was springing fresh and green, and the lark sang loud and high, And the red was on your lips, Mary, and the love light in your eyes.

’Tis but a step down yonder lane, the village Church stands near The place where we were wed, Mary, I can see the spire from here. But the graveyard lies between, Mary, and my step might break your rest Where I laid you, darling, down to sleep with a baby on your breast.

I’m very lonely now, Mary, for the poor make no new Sitting on the stile … friends, Photo by collaboration of Melissa, Rachel and Kyle But oh they love the better still the few our Father sends. Fairbanks. The stile is near the author’s home. For you were all I had, Mary, my blessing and my pride, A feature of the Irish countryside for centuries has been And I’ve nothing left to care for now since my poor Mary the stone stile used by many people as a passage through died. or over a fence or boundary via steps. Unlike a gate there is no chance of forgetting to close it. Yours was the good brave heart, Mary, that still kept It is very likely the first stiles were invented as a means holding on of access. They were also necessary where livestock When the trust in God had left my soul and my arms’ owners enclosed their animals as they provided easy young strength had gone. access as well as preventing escape. Most animals do not There was comfort ever on your lip and a kind look on like the stone so keep away and refuse to walk or cross your brow, stone paths. And I thank you Mary for the same, though you cannot The sportsman and his dog used the stiles especially on hear me now. shooting trips. Stone stiles were the most popular but wood and slate I’m bidding you a long farewell, my Mary kind and true, were used when available and can be seen in many But I’ll not forget you, darling, in the land I’m going to. countries. They say there’s bread and work for all, and the sun shines To-day of course this basic design has been developed always there, into mechanical turnstiles to be seen at sports centres and But I’ll ne’er forget old Ireland, were it fifty times as fair. other public venues. An old saying is “Help the dogge over the stile” and And often in those grand old woods I’ll sit and shut my there is a proverb “look over the hedge before you leap eyes, over the stile”. A popular ballad sung at many Irish And my heart will wander back again to the place where functions in the last century, The Irish Emigrant, began Mary lies, “I’m sitting on the stile, Mary.” And I think I’ll see that little stile where we sat side by side The Irish Emigrant In the springing corn and the bright May morn’ when first By Helen Selina Dufferin you were my bride.

I’m sitting on the stile, Mary, where we once sat side by side

68 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Verbal Footprints Leo Mattimoe

On the night of Sunday 12th April, all boy he could stick a fishing pole out them aware of the origin of words, or most households in the Republic his bedroom window and catch a explaining that Anglo-Saxon formed of Ireland were making history. The trout in the river. Then there was the only a small part of the so called head of each household, whatever girl who wrote home from America English language, the rest being Latin, that means nowadays, was legally to say she had met the man from her Greek, Danish, Norman French and obliged to complete the census form. own parish who had got to America many others. They were enraptured This census, the 24th, will be the on the strength of some money he had to discover that bicycle meant two latest addition to a series starting misappropriated. Interesting was the wheels and if another wheel were in 1821. The intention was to hold case of the nurse who informed me added it became a tricycle. a census every ten years from then that her great grandmother was born As for grammar! An inspector of on. The first reasonably reliable one night under a Conestoga wagon French once visited my class and census was taken in 1841 which was which was attacked by Indians. This before his departure he informed followed by the 1851 census. It could wasn’t exactly a centre of excellence the students that grammar was not be argued that these were the two but the baby survived to tell the story. important, only good manners. The most important censuses in modern Story is the key word. Everybody teaching of grammar was discouraged Irish history because between these likes to hear a story and what story and blockbuster English became the two dates occurred the greatest human could be of more personal interest than norm. The introduction of disjointed catastrophe in Ireland in recent times, the story of one’s antecedents. We can handwriting was the last straw, with the so called Great Famine. We now resurrect them from official records capital letters appearing in the middle have a reliable official record of the but these records are only the bones of words and slowing the writer down. decline in population as a result of devoid of any flesh, unless of course, Now we have employers and third what happened. some stray gems of information level personnel complaining about During the past ten or fifteen years have survived, either oral, verbal or the poor standard of literacy among there has been a remarkable interest pictorial. When I look at a photograph employees and students. taken in genealogy in Ireland. This of my great grandmother, Ann O’Gara As a coincidence, on census night, I process started with some Americans - O’Farrell (born 189), seated with a had just finished re-reading the Diary and to a lesser extent Australians, closed book on her lap, I can picture of Humphrey O’Sullivan which is seeking their roots and hoping to her going to Coney Island in August a translation from Irish. If he hadn’t establish an identity here, and to find in a horse trap with a few other kept a diary perhaps all we would a long lost relative was of course the women from the neighbourhood. know about him would be that he icing on the cake. As a former history Their mattresses would have been was born in 1780 and died in 188. teacher who happened to have some sent down beforehand on a horse and He came from Kerry as a boy, with interest in this area I was glad to have cart to the house they had rented for his hedge schoolmaster father and been of some help. I had access to some a week. They cooked their own meals lived for most of his life in Callan, records but I was also familiar with and when they weren’t watching, the Co.Kilkenny. There he taught school many family names and connections in island boys would put a handful of soot intermittently, started a business a particular area. It is an activity which into the pot to improve the flavour. and became an influential citizen. demands time, patience and often the They also drank sea water which they However, he will be remembered for use of instinct. Much depended on believed was good for the intestines. the short diary entries he made in an the degree of contact which existed The latest census figures will no doubt old copybook from 1827 to 185. between those who emigrated and be of benefit to future historians and Here was a man who with little cost those who remained at home. to government in deciding policy. to himself apart from the expense of This might include a letter written However, the people mean nothing, a bottle of ink, left us a very valuable in 1906 by a young man from the figures everything. social document. Carrownagark to say he had arrived In an age of e-mailing and He was a keen observer of nature, in San Francisco, had survived the texting, the more permanent forms noting the changing seasons, the habits earthquake and intended going into of communication seem to have of birds and animals and traditions of construction - a good choice under the diminished and also the quality of the the local people. He liked food and circumstances. There was the woman written word. When teaching English drink and often dined with the local whose grandfather told her that as a to junior students I tried to make parish priest. He describes the building

69 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 of a mud hut and the living conditions people and often condescending and capacity and opinions of the average of the people. patronizing in tone. This is where Irish family. This might add some One day the town was full of the O’Sullivan’s diary is different. He is flesh to the bones of the census form king’s cavalry when he heard that observing from the inside, from the and strike a counterbalance to the George the Fourth was near death, so ‘Hidden Ireland,’ as Daniel Corkery memoirs of celebrities. he asks God to direct the king’s soul called it, and even though he castigates Apart altogether from the practical to the right faith, towards a good death the common people for their faults, uses of a diary, like remembering after repenting and receiving Extreme mainly their fondness for whiskey and birthdays, appointments and suchlike Unction. He adds however that he has fighting, he nevertheless understands it also has a therapeutic value. People little hope of that. them and empathises with them. with problems sometimes confide in The 28th February 180 was the I once encouraged students to keep friends who may not be as tightlipped first Sunday of Lent, Domhnach na a diary for one year about events at as one would wish, so committing Deoirin, the Sunday of Tears, the home and in school. These I never read one’s thoughts to a diary could help tears of girls who were not married at because they were personal. I hope relieve the burden and also paint a sort Shrovetide. On St Patrick’s Day 180 some of them will survive because of self portrait in words of the diarist it pleased him that he didn’t see a many years from now they will form a which might be of great interest to man, woman or boy drunk, due to the corpus of material relating to the lives somebody in the future. sermons of the local priest. He tells us of young people of this period. They Even though O’Sullivan’s diary was that Good Friday was a day of black will form flesh on the bones of some not a masterpiece it left an important fast, that the meal they used to have in future great grandmother and will verbal footprint which related to the the old days was barley bread, water hopefully become a family treasure. lives of ordinary Irish people at a time cress and water. If some enlightened government when Ireland was about to experience Most personal writing from that issued interested families with official one of the most cataclysmic events in period constituted memoirs, diaries diaries and asked them voluntarily our nation’s history. and travel journals usually written to make entries for one year, one Let’s hope somebody will follow by denizens of the big houses or by can just imagine the harvest that his example and produce something foreign travellers. For the most part would be available to future social similar for a very different age. they were superficial observations of historians delving into the lifestyle, the lives and traditions of the Irish work patterns, leisure time, spending

Care Free Bealtaine The Robin Bernie Gilbride Bernie Gilbride Bernie Gilbride

Should today be different Glorious month of May, As I dig, the weeds to clear, Not for me, Has Summer really come to stay? A lively chirp, chirp, I hear No responsibilities Each morning we wake to bird song, A robin on the curbing stands, No one to care for you see. Open the curtains to lovely sunshine. Watching the spade in my hands. Greet the morning rain or shine, Gardens newly trimmed and neat, He dives on the dark unfurled clay, Check the diary one more time Rose bushes with buds so sweet, Is there a worm there today? Get things done before nine, Annuals potential begin to show, In and out he burrows Thank God memory still fine. Soon they will be all aglow. In every little furrow Breakfast with my four legged friend This month my favourite of the year, Ear cocked towards clay, His intake of food knows no end. Its freshness, brightness is In he hops, turns everyway, The beach it calls for us to walk everywhere. He hears the worm burrow deep Meet some friends, talk and talk. Flower beds bursting into life and Safety from trouble, to seek. The ever changing sea enchants, colour, His lunch is on the robin’s mind, Large breakers foaming over rocks, Busy bees flitting from flower to The worm he hears, he hopes to find, Gentle waves cleansing sand, flower One sharp firm delve and tug, Leaving strand looking grand. Rewards him with much welcome This beautiful world grub. All mine to enjoy.

70 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Michael Lang

Eulogy by Dermot O’Donnell, consultant Editor to the Garda Record Journal and former President of the Garda Representative Association, delivered in the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, Sligo, at the funeral Mass of retired Detective Garda and noted Tenor, Michael Lang.

Like everyone else, I was shocked by boxer. He was immensely strong and the suddenness of Michael’s passing. though it was not the sport that he is He was a remarkable individual and a best remembered for, he committed dear friend. He lived life to the full and himself eagerly to the rigorous training having only celebrated his seventieth required. Indeed the local Sligo town birthday last November, it is plain to Gaelic Football team, Craobh Rua, everybody that he crammed more into saw all five Lang brothers tog-out one lifetime that most of us could, in on the field of play on behalf of local several. pride. Both Michael and Tom went His loss to us his friends, and even on to represent their county at inter- his family, though immense, is nothing county level, a source of great pride compared to the loss of his lifelong to Michael. friend and partner, Ann Kinch. I know But it is the musical side of Michael Michael would want his family and that is best known. As a young man, friends to rally round and support her, Michael was immensely proud of his during the difficult days ahead. success in winning the Count John Last night after Michael’s remains McCormack singing competition. were brought here to the Cathedral, I From there he developed a style for went back out to his house in Collooney Cathedral, that he loved so much for which he became well known and with Ann, where some of his family us to say our mutual farewells. was to be the source of his proudest and friends were gathering. During the Michael’s life was like a finely cut moment, when he sang for His course of the evening we came across diamond, with each facet reflecting the Holiness Pope John Paul 11 in Knock an old issue of a Garda staff magazine wonderful light that surrounded him. in 1979 during the visit of the Pontiff called “PATROL” which Michael had First and foremost in the list Michael’s to Ireland. Michael sang at countless kept. On flicking through the pages it entitlements to feel justifiably proud numbers of concerts and raised funds soon became clear as to why Michael of was his association with An Garda through the gift of his talent as a gifted had held on to it for some 15 years. Síochána. Both he and his brother singer and organiser. The magazine carried an article Tom served with distinction for well Though his presence was personable entitled “The Singing Detective” and in excess of thirty years each and are and easy, he also had the ability to was, as you have so rightly guessed, remembered in that great organisation impact greatly on people. He always about Detective Garda Michael Lang. for their attention to detail and was interested in people, who they It recounted how he had been one of conscientiousness in carrying out were and where they were from, the first party of Gardaí to march in their duties. But Michael was proud and of course if they could sing or uniform in another jurisdiction. The of another family tradition, that being play music. I emailed many police occasion in question was the 199 one of having a family involvement colleagues around the world to let Saint Patrick’s Day Parade in Chicago. in Policing in this country for in them know of Michael’s passing In addition to marching in the parade, excess of a century. Michael’s father and was inundated with messages of Michael’s reputation as a renowned was a founder member of An Garda commiseration and sympathy. Two of tenor had preceded him and he had the Síochána, having joined at the time these I have chosen to read out to you, double honour of singing in uniform of the foundation of the state in the first from nearest to home and the in both Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, 1922. Prior to Independence, his second from amongst the farthest. Chicago and also in Saint Matthew’s grandfather had served the policing Mr Billy Allen, Chairman of the PSNI Cathedral, Washington DC. tradition as a member of the Royal Disabled Police Officers Association The article carried an interview with Irish Constabulary (RIC). wrote the following referring to Michael which gives a unique insight Michael had a way with people, a musical evening that Michael into “Michael the man” and I quote respecting their dignity and always organised for their visit to Dublin in “Singing is very much a spiritual thing seeking the good in everyone. He was November last, “During our visit to for me – it is how I pray. For as long undoubtedly the greatest ambassador Westmanstown in Dublin, Michael’s as I can remember, I associate prayer An Garda Síochána ever had. generosity, warmth, kindness and with singing. It goes back to my time A side of Michael, that’s less well humour was equalled with his with the Sligo Cathedral Choir when known, is his ability as a sportsman. marvellous talent. A voice that can I was at school.” So isn’t it fitting, It was only while talking to his brother only be compared to that of Joseph that he should be back here in the Andrew that I discovered that Michael Locke. Our thoughts and sympathy in his youth had been an accomplished

71 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 go out to his partner Ann, his family, his soul rest in God’s hands.” with an extract from “Benedictus” many friends and former colleagues. But it was his generosity in all by philosopher and poet John An obituary notice will be inserted in matters that made him the special O’Donoghue. These following few our next official newsletter.” individual that he was. He gave of his lines from his “On the death of a Mr Dennis Long, National President time and talent unselfishly. He never beloved” remind me of Michael, of of the National Conference of Law passed anyone begging in the street how we need to grieve him, and are Enforcement Emerald Societies had and always handed them money along thankful for his being part of our lives, this to say, “The National Conference with gentle encouragement and advice. while confident that he is still with of Law Enforcement Emerald Societies In fact Clive Armstrong, our organist us. was honoured to have Michael Lang here this morning and a constant at our companion and friend of Michael’s “Though we need to weep your loss, 2009 Annual Conference in told me last night, that four or five You dwell in that safe place in our Washington DC this past May. days each week he and Michael would hearts, Michael not only sang Amhráin na walk through Dublin city, listening to Where no storm or night or pain can bhFiann and the Star Spangled Banner performing street-musicians, offering reach you. at our meeting but he also sang Danny many an opportunity to perform with Boy for our for our Annual March them on stage. Always as they moved The sound of your voice and Memorial Service at the National around the city, Michael would give Found for us Law Enforcement Officer Memorial. kindly to those down on their luck and A new music Michael’s beautiful voice could be less well off. On one such occasion, That brightened everything. heard echoing across the Memorial Clive recalls, Michael had given Grounds at the Service which was away all his money when he saw Though your days here were brief, attended by tens of thousands of another misfortunate with a paper Your spirit was alive, awake, Law Enforcement Officers from cup extended and he turned to Clive complete. throughout the United States and the and asked him had he any money left. May you continue to inspire us!” world. Michael’s singing was a very Clive was somewhat exasperated by memorable part of this solemn service this stage and turned to Michael and Michael, I am the better for having and will always be remembered. On replied, “ Can we not put a limit on it known you, thank you for your behalf of the National Conference of Michael – say ten a day”. Clive knew friendship. Law Enforcement Emerald Societies he was fighting a losing battle, as I would like to convey my heartfelt there was no limit to Michael Lang’s Michael Lang of Kinnagrelly, condolences to his partner Ann, his generosity. Collooney, Co. Sligo, died in family, friends and colleagues. May Finally, I would like to close December 2009.

CLANS OF IRELAND

Dr. James O’Higgins Norman, Leas Cathaoirleach/Vice chair (Knight of the Order),

Maura O’Gara O’Riordan in centre,

Nora Keohane Hickey, Cathaoirleach/ Chairperson

Maura O’Gara O’Riordan Honoured. Maura O’Gara O’Riordan has contributed extensively to The Corran Herald over the years. She is registrar of Clans of Ireland and in recognition of her sustained and significant contribution to Irish culture and heritage she received a Knighthood of Merit from the Grand Master of the Military and Hospitaller Order of St Lazarus of Jerusalem, his Excellency Don Carlos Gererda de Borbón, Marquis de Almazon. This took place at a ceremony in St Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin, on September 0th 2010. Only a handful of Irish people have been honoured in this way. The Corran Herald offers sincere congratulations to Maura. 72 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Memories of a Country The Man of Ninety Two Scholar of the Fifties Joan Gleeson John McDonagh “School days are happy days” “The summer Sun, the Winter’s snow Words inscribed on photo folders, And autumn’s russet hue And for the most part, yes they were, I’ve seen so many come and go” Except for days of fear and dread Said the man of ninety two When dates of battles from our memories fled. “The Spring’s first droning bumble bees Cardboard suitcases crammed with books In evenings warm and slow were tightly clipped on back of bike With heather smoke upon the breeze, and wool gloved hands on handlebars so tight I’ve seen them come and go. were no match for frost and rain We peddled on for academic gain. Then, soft winds from the nearby hills Begun the growth anew Days of laughter lots we had Primroses and the Daffodils” As on bright mornings uniform-clad Said the man of ninety two We cycled three abreast reciting lines From ill-learned poems and silly rhymes. Broad muscled men would turn the earth Shakespeare’s delightful observations With straining team and plough laced our conversations. With gleaming sleans they cut the turf “Tu-whit, tu-who!, a merry note But where, where are they now? While greasy Joan doth keel the pot” Light hearted quotes, well meant, or not. These same staunch men who swung their scythes Through barley, oats and hay Daily news flash,” Oh did you hear?” In wartime kept the nation fed With widespread use of the Briathar Saor. But now they’ve gone away. Pre-mart town was wedged with cattle, Swinging tails, ash plants, organic matter, Blithe women-folk baked soda bread To mount the rock was quite a challenge On cheerful turf fires burning These fair day obstacles so hard to manage. Brown bowls upon the dresser laid Held butter from their churning. Now in the classroom each teacher taught as if their subject was all we sought. Forever there to lend a hand Amo, Amas, Amat - our favourite Latin verb When helping hands were needed To be not learn-ed was unheard. In kitchen, byre, on the land Hot on its heels in swift pursuit came the mind-boggling Ablative Absolute. They willingly proceeded,

Looking back it is my pride And always there to care and share to have read Yeats and Oscar Wild, Were neighbours kind and dear, Longfellow, Pearse, Plunket, Keats - the lot Their greatest joy was in their prayer all fished out of the poetry pot. But they’re no longer here. Four Long Gospels and the Acts, were life’s long fodder of Religious facts. “My school friends too” the old man said School day ends, all away “They all have ceased to be like Tour de France One by one they’ve all passed on freewheeling down the Captain’s Bray. And now there’s only me.”

I thank the nuns, my parents too Who gave me more than wealth could do May their reward be “Rest in Peace” And to them happiness that will never cease.

7 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 I Wish my Neck Was a Mile Long Mary Kelly White

It is only now, half a century later, that I realize the fun and experiences we had in our youth. We were born townies although both parents grew up on farms. My dad’s farm was in Rossmore, Riverstown with nice flat land and an odd hilly road or field, but my mum’s home farm was up the rocky Arigna mountain, and down the heathery glen Killamey, where the thatched cottage, two rooms and a kitchen, was situated at the bottom of the valley. No matter which direction you took from the house there were three or four rushy, heathery fields between the house and the road. Several families lived in the Rinty’s Cabin today valley then (50/60s) and all of them God wasn’t listening to me that day ran and jumped all over the place like as well as ourselves had rights-of-way because I prayed that they would fail. kangaroos. which were called passes, zig-zagging We didn’t use the Post Office Pass I went to the Post Office one day through the valley. very often either, because the postman and I got lost. Part of the pass was There was the pass through the Peter Spelman, and Ms Francis through our own fields. I knew that the Tullies, which also led to the bog; the Lehaney delivered post every day and horse and the bull as well as the cattle Post Office Pass; and the Mass Pass. when people had letters to be posted were in the fields and I was afraid but The only time we used the Tullies the postman either had the stamps determined (my middle name). After Pass was when we were arriving or took the money and the job was spending a long time going down one from or returning to Sligo. It was four done. d was the price of a stamp side of a ditch and up the other side, steep, heathery, mossy sodden fields then. Everyone was posting letters in and out of the same stile with my from the road down to our house, and or receiving mailletters/magazines/ head bent for fear the bull would see whatever luggage we brought with newspapers/ even parcels from me, a little neighbouring girl Patricia us had to be hauled down the slithery England and America. When we Higgins, younger and smaller than slopes, across a narrow river, and then needed to use the Post Office we would I was, stood beside me with a very hauled up the Bray, and across two ask the Cullen children, Maeve or long stick in her hand and said “My green fields, the pride of the farm, to Robert to post letters for us. Lehaney’s mammy told me to take you out of this the house. Luckily the only animals Post Office was on the far road, across field. Stay there and don’t move and on the Tullies were sheep and they the valley from us at Altagowlan. The I’ll get you when I count them sheep.” just bleated sadly. There is something Pass went through acres and acres And she waved her long stick across very sad about sheep bleating, and of bog, pasture and meadow fields the vast Tullies dotted with sheep. I even spring lambs while they prance as well as a river. Ploughing through got to the Post Office but then I had around merrily have an even more meadow fields never bothered me even to get home. I hadn’t a clue where I lonesome bleating. though I knew that I was flattening was. Of course I couldn’t see our little Every family had sheep and donkeys the meadow but I dreaded the pasture cottage in the bottom of the valley but as well as cattle, but my father liked fields; because with cows’ tracks full I could see the big three storey house horses and he even acquired a bull, of dirty water, and massive clumps of with the basement belonging to Jimmy a fully registered bull. He reared one rushes it was like navigating through a Jamsey and Mary Kate Cullen, now of his calves, took it into town on wild forest, and the shock after shock Daly’s, which was on the high road the hoof for registration by a Garda, of big red and black cows standing near the Mass Pass overlooking our in Geevagh or Ballyfarnon, I’m not still, staring with big steady eyes, small house so I aimed for it. I fell into sure which. It passed the test, was using their tails like whips to flick the and out of drains and ditches where registered as Grey Dawn, and he flies off their backs, was a nightmare. neither man nor beast ever dared to proudly walked his bull back home. Calves were even worse because they go and eventually I got home. Maybe

74 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

God was directing me that day but I Gaffneys, Kellys, Dalys, McManuses, at one side of the open ashy hearth and don’t remember asking Him for help. McPartlands, Houlehans,Cullens, a huge boulder serving for a fireside We used the Mass Pass all the time. McDonaghs, Higginses, McGraths, chair on the other side. The host Rinty We never had our own transport in Walshes, and Duignans. And I got the first mug of stout with great the 50/60s. We used the CIE bus attended my first Dance/Céili. c eremony. In gentle tones through from Sligo to Ballyfarnon, walked The teenage fellows almost all of smiling teeth and eyes he gasped “I the three plus miles up Stanton’s Bray whom were already working in the wish my neck was a mile long” when and down the other side past Noone’s coal mines decided to have a Ceili he came up for air after the first slug. coalmine, hauling our luggage such as while the townies were still around. We didn’t dance, we didn’t know it was. It took an hour or more each The house where the Ceili was held how, but the locals did, dragging their way. Mostly we came and went on belonged to a bachelor man named Jim shoes and wellies in half-set after

Macarthur’s Bread van which did a McPartland, who was also nicknamed half-set, and Lancers to beat the band. weekly run on Thursdays. Rinty and The Black Doctor. The Rinty himself could have carried the Paddy Verdon was a lovely kindly Black Doctor suited him because his music on his tambourine/Bodhrán but man as was Sean Roberts, both skin was tanned after a lifetime of there were tin whistles, mouth organs, from Sligo, and sadly both at rest, living in his little smoke filled cabin. jaws harps as well as full throated R.I.P. They were like guardians to He had black curly hair and pearly singers not to mention the wind up us and we haven’t forgotten. A lot of white teeth. He was a chilly little man gramophone with the blunt needle families in the Valley had the same who shuffled his shoulders and always filling in e th break times. It was a surnames and were distinguished by wore a black overcoat, and he was a great night until someone pared the the Christian names of their fathers. wizard at making Bodhrans, big, little knobs off Rinty’s drum stick. The host

For example, Jimmy Jamsey Cullen and small. No goat skin was wasted saw red, opened the half-off door and and his wife Mary Kate Miley Owen when Rinty was alive. His little cabin showed all of us the road, or rather Cullen; Berney Jack Cullen and his was half a hilly field off the road and his the sea of scattered dim lights in the wife Kate Peter Cullen; Joe Thomas door was always open for neighbours valley below. Our house was situated

Cullen and his wife from Drummed to meet and pass the time, day or night. two hilly fieldsand a marshy flat down called Mary Ellen Fahy. Berney Jack The teenage miners between them from the road. All the fellows helped Cullen had a great country shop which bought the goodies which included us to get home safely and before sun- sold every thing except butter because a quarter barrel of stout/Guinness. up. people churned their own butter, The barrel had to be transported in and the tobacco my father smoked an overcrowded car from the pub in which was Murray’s Twist. It was my Arigna to Rinty’s house, and it was delightful job to carry my bicycle up almost churned by the time it arrived. the Tullies Pass and cycle the four or All the lads were merry and unsteady. so miles to McCrann’s shop at Mount No two of them could stand straight Allen (I think) near Arigna for the long enough to shoulder the barrel tobacco. I enjoyed the experience, it and carry it like a coffin up the uneven got me out of the fields, there were mud path to the yellow lamp lighted no animals on the way, the road was cabin which was oozing strong eager rough but flat and I could take my feet young adults and a couple of townie off the pedals and fly down the road daws. Everyone gave a hand at laying with the wind in my long fair hair. out the barrel and they were in a Fr.Owens was the Parish Priest at hurry to get the porter flowing. The that time 1950-1955, and he was trick was to insert the supplied tap also responsible for Geevagh and in the same movement as removing Highwood. He was in the throes of the cork at the base of the barrel. building the picturesque little Church One quick tap and a fountain of of Our Lady of Lourdes which is stout hit the sooty rafters and rained currently well kept and holding its down blacker than black on all of us. own, and also a new modern National “This will do for slide easy”, one of School which folded many years ago the local girls Mai Carty said, taking for lack of pupils. Fr. Owens was a box of Rinso from the dresser and running Bazaars in the New School to shaking it on the beer-soaked flag floor. raise funds as a result of which we got Three or four balls of damp powder to know all of the neighbours: Cartys, scurried our of sight under the car seat

75 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Death of G Dodwell

AT A MEETING of the Tenantry of the Ballymote and other Resolved – That these Resolutions be contiguous Estates, over which the published late GEORGE DODWELL, Esq., Proposed by the Rev. Mr. Jeffcott, presided, John Taaffe West, Esq., and seconded by the Rev. John in the chair, the following letter of Garrett. That a Marble Tablet with condolence was unanimously agreed a suitable inscription be erected to on the 10th day of August, 184: - in the Church of Ballymote, commemorative of our sense of TO MRS. DODWELL regret for the death of George Dear Mrs. DODWELL, Dodwell, Esq. We could not in silence sympathise with you consistent with those Mrs Dodwell replied as follows: feelings of respect, gratitude, and attachment we entertain for our TO THE TENANTRY OF THE lamented friend. BALLYMOTE AND OTHER He has left lasting monuments CONTIGUOUS ESTATES behind him of his anxiety to promote CONCERNED the interest and benevolent wishes of Kevinsfort, August 0, 184 our Landlords in the improvement of MY DEAR FRIENDS, our dwellings and our Farms, in the It is with feelings of heartfelt division of the Lands so judiciously gratitude I beg to acknowledge your that each Tenant resides on his own letter of condolence containing many separate holding, and can enjoy kind expressions of regard for the a comfortable house, where by memory of my late husband. ventilation and cleanliness, he and his Be assured this mark of attention family may hope under Providence, and sympathy to me and my to escape many of the contagious family shall always be gratefully diseases that are incident to crowded remembered by your sincere friend, villages. Good roads, too, have VICTORIA DODWELL. been laid out and in part finished under his auspices, and we have all A long list of signatories follows experienced his kind indulgence in in the report (partly reproduced the payment of our rents, and we below). It was noted in the report have reason to believe that if he had that “Several of the Tenants on the been spared, he would have taken Estate of Sir Alexander Creighton into consideration the depressed state had signed this, and were obliged of Agricultural produce. Looking under the mandate of the Priest back upon the years in which we of ‘Killawill’ to withdraw their have been thus dealt with, we must names”. It was also noted that deplore that he has been removed, the great majority of the tenants and we beg to assure you and his on the Lissadell and Ballintrillick afflicted family that his memory will estates had signed “notwithstanding ever be dear to those whose condition the opposition of the Romish he so long and anxiously laboured to priesthood”. improve. We have the honour to be, with sincere respect, Dear Madam, Your faithful humble servants, JOHN TAAFFE WEST, Chairman. 76 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 New Community Library and Fire Station in Ballymote

On Friday May 20th 2011 the new Community Library and Fire Station in Ballymote were formally opened by Phil Hogan TD, Minister for the Environment, Community and Local Government. This important day saw the long-awaited realisation of the dreams and wishes of many people.

The Library. There has been a part-time Library service in Ballymote since 1949. Established in that year in the Loftus Hall as a Branch of the Sligo County Library it proved a very valuable asset to the town and provided a convenient local source of reading for very many people. However, it shared a room with many other activities so that at the end of each provision of a fully modern Library through many phases of development opening session the bookshelves service, encompassing the full range from the outbreak of the Second had to be covered with removable of 21st century Library facilities. World War until today. The original doors, and so in 1984 it moved to The floor space has increased from “Bucket Brigade” was set up in the a vacant room in the Courthouse the 22 sq metres of the Courthouse early 1940s; manned by volunteers, where it enjoyed sole possession room to over 400 sq metres. There is it used buckets of sand, shovels, an and where it has remained until now. a greatly increased book stock; there axe, and a standpipe and key with a This new location enabled a bigger are newspapers and periodicals; there length of hose. This equipment was stock of books to be better displayed are CDs and DVDs of music, books, soon superseded by a handcart which and resulted in increased readership. language courses, natural history, boasted more sophisticated hosework During the last ten years of its stay etc; there is a dedicated children’s and a timber ladder. In 1945 a self- here the entire Library system was area for story times and activities; propelled pump was obtained from computerised. there is a dedicated music room the military; it was transported in the From its earliest years until 1972 for practising or recording; there is boot of any available car. the Ballymote Branch Library was broadband computer access for the The first recognisable fire engine run by Jimmy McFadden. 197 saw general public and audio books and came in 1960, a Range Rover. And the appointment of Anne Flanagan ebooks can be downloaded; there now for the first time there was an as Branch Librarian and she it is a meeting room and audio visual official and paid crew (5 shillings was who coped with the transfer conference room, and there is even per call, regardless of duration). In to the Courthouse and with the a self issuing facility to help reduce 1972 the Range Rover was replaced computerisation. When Anne retired queues when necessary. by a Bedford “Green Goddess”, and in 2006 she was succeeded in turn by Sligo County Librarian Donal this in turn was replaced in 1980 by Joanne Hosey, Catherine Whitehouse Tinney, Sligo Co Council, The a Dennis fire truck. This remained in and Louise McGrath. Louise saw Department of the Environment, The use until 1994 when it was succeeded it through to its departure from the Library Council, local representatives by a Volvo truck (with aluminium Courthouse in 2011. and all others involved in this project ladders for the first time). A Scania The new Branch premises is can be proud of what they have fire engine took over in 2001 and located in Teeling Street, Ballymote, achieved in Ballymote. is still in use, accompanied now by more or less half way between its a second smaller vehicle, a Range two earlier locations. It represents an The Fire Station. Rover which has a portable pump and enormous leap forward towards the The Ballymote Fire Service has gone a water tank.

77 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

The early Fire Service was based building with a bay for two fire used at the scenes of collisions. The in the yard behind John Thomas engines, a drill tower and a drill station also provides facilities to Regan’s Hardware shop (the present yard, as well as a communications enable training in the area of first Enterprise Centre). In 1966 it moved room, a lecture room, canteen, aid fire fighting, how to use a fire to its present site and remained changing facilities, workshop and extinguisher safely, how to cope with there until 2007 when it moved stores. The drill tower provides a safe a chip pan fire, etc. back to temporary accommodation location for conducting training and Again an amenity of great value to in Regan’s yard to allow for the on the day of the official opening Ballymote and surrounding area, and construction of the new fire station. the yard saw a demonstration of one of which all concerned can be The new station is a two-storey victim extraction techniques to be very proud.

Barratoore The Miners’ Way their breathing damaged from dust-choked lungs Bernie Gilbride Mary Guckian - their lives shortened.

Pearly grey mist filled valley, High at Arigna Mines Reproduced with author’s permission Orange glow mist filled sky, the day is grey. from her book “Walking on Snow”, In the distance cattle calling Here to visit, I ponder Swan Press, Dublin 2010 Another day begins. on generations of miners

Grass shimmers with dew drops In dark passages bright, they lay on their sides enduring Hedgerows, trees, come into sight, constant drip as they scraped ‘Stares’ flitting flying moving, a living from the damp shale. God has given us a beautiful morning. In the Visitors’ Centre photos tell of men, blackened,

78 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

Regan’s on a procession day showing Ballymote Building Society. The lady is Maureen Regan (sister of John Thomas Regan) in her Ursuline uniform. Picture courtesy John Coleman from the Maisie McGovern collection.

Paddy McGovern saving hay in Roscrib. Who was the other man? Picture courtesy John Coleman from the Maisie McGovern collection.

79 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 “Ballymote Memories”

Former Gárdaí Front Row (L/R): Supt Kelly, D. Moriarty, Sam Donegan, Tom Healy, Jack McNulty Middle Row (L/R): Peter Sreenan, Joe Meehan, Pat Beirne Back Row (L/R): Gda Gallagher, Frank O’Connor, Terry Cassidy Picture courtesy Brendan Colbert per Gerry Cassidy

Ballymote Round Towers football team, early 1950s Picture courtesy Brendan Colbert per Gerry Cassidy

80 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 “Ballymote Memories”

Paddy Lavin, Berchman Scully, Aidan Cawley Picture courtesy Brendan Colbert per Gerry Cassidy

At Ballymote Handball Alley Front Row Adults (L/R): M. Hannon, ------, ? Walsh, E. Hannon, ------, ------, ------, ------, J. Hannon, M Scanlon Back Row (L/R): Raphael Walsh, ------, ------, M. Cunnane, D. Walsh, T.J. Gallagher, Michael Hannon, A. Ward, L. Hannon Can anybody supply the missing adult names and the names of the young people in front? Picture courtesy Brendan Colbert per Gerry Cassidy.

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Ballymote Convent Primary School Senior Classes 1952 Back Row (L/R): Beatrice Healy, May McGettrick, Helen Duffy, Imelda Hannon, Teresa Cunnane, Pauline O’Halloran, Joan Hannon, Eileen Healy, Rosie Cassidy, Vera Golden, Betty Finn, Attracta Hoey. Fourth Row (L/R): Patsy Hogge, Peggy Hannon, Ter Hannon, Phyllis Watters, Mary McFadden, Mary Duffy, Rosie Healy, Teresa Scanlon, Teresa Gormley, Valerie Meehan. Third Row (L/R): Joan Cassidy, Mary Reynolds, Nora Finan, Mary Ellen Murtagh, Bernadette Scully, Teresa Shannon, Rita Brehany, Aggie Brady, Mary Dunne, Ursula Scully, Josephine Shiels, Mary Kennedy. Second Row (L/R): Attracta Shiels, Mary Quigley, Ann McDonagh, Sheila McCluskey, Chrissie Golden, Sheila Chambers, Una Golden, Kitty Brady, Imelda Egan, Noreen Finn. Front Row kneeling (L/R): Teresa Keaney, Nell Chambers, Marcella Brady, Ben Chambers, Angela Scully, Patricia Mattimoe, Etta Healy, Maureen Meehan. Picture courtesy Sr Nell Chambers

On their wedding day: Dan Coleman (seated centre) and Kathleen Benson (seated right), with bridesmaid Sheila Johnson (seated left). Standing are best man Cathal Cawley (centre), Fr John Francis O’Hara (right) and Fr Gerry Jordan. Picture courtesy Brendan Colbert per Gerry Cassidy. 82 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

Scoil Mhuire gan Smal, Ballymote - First Holy Communion Class 2011 Back Row (L/R): Aine Davey (teacher), Paul Kivlehan, Rebecca Murtagh, Diarmuid O’Dowd, Sean Cunningham, Saskia Davey, Oran Mooney, Cian Kilcoyne, Clara Corcoran, Fr. Gregory Hannon, Annie Mullen, Ms. Taheny (Principal) Row  (L/R): Callum Murrin, Grace Rafferty, Daire McGee, Ciara McGlone, Sarah Tighe, Oisin Moffatt, Matthew McGrath, Jack Lavin, Clodagh Currid Row 2 (L/R): Niamh Connolly, Latisha Mulligan, Cora Connolly, Roland Scanlon, Dervilla Donohoe, Rebecca McGlone, Farrah McDonagh, Felicity Ward. Front Row (L/R seated): Abbi Walker, Katie Egan, Tristan Regan, Ciara Conlon, Nessa Brennan

Knockminna National School First Holy Communion Class 2011 Two boys in front: Mark Wheelan (left) and Aaron Brennan Two girls standing forward: Chantelle Curran (left) and Ceilí Faughnan Next Row (L/R): Kate Brehony, James McMorrow, Fr James McDonagh CC, Ballymote, Sean Mullen, Laoise King At back (L/R): Mr Brian Henry (Class Teacher), Mickey McMorrow and Adam Cunnane (altar servers), Mrs Louise King (Principal Teacher) Picture courtesy Knockminna NS 8 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012

Ballymote Heritage Group Patrons: Matilda Casey Eamon Barnes Most Rev Dr T Flynn, Retired Bishop of Achonry Officers President: Eileen Tighe Vice-President: Ann Harrison Chairperson: Des Black Vice-Chairperson: Carmel Rogers Secretary: Betty Conlon Joint Treasurers: Pam Benson and Mary Martin PRO and Editor of The Corran Herald: James Flanagan

Members: Olive Beirne, Mary Black, David Casey, Gerry Cassidy, John Coleman, John Conlon, Anne Flanagan, Brenda Friel, Noreen Friel, Paddy Horan, Molly Howard, Gerry Keaney, Jack Martin, John Perry TD, Marie Perry, Nuala Rogers, Carmel Rogers, Michael Rogers AGM The 26th Annual General Meeting of the Group was held on September 29th at 8.0 pm in Fawlty Towers, Ballymote. All officers submitted very satisfactory reports on the year’s events. Especially successful were the Heritage Weekend and the publication The Corran Herald (the biggest ever). Officers as above were elected for the year 2010-2011. Sponsors

Ballymote Heritage Group gratefully acknowledges the generous sponsorship of the Heritage Weekend provided by the following:

Sligo Co Council Community Heritage Grant Scheme 2010 Tente Ltd AVA Systems Ltd FBD Isurance Eamon Scanlon TD John Perry TD and Marie Tighe’s Newsagents Matilda Casey Michael and Carmel Rogers Elizabeth Gilhawley Jack Martin

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