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Trastevere & Gianicolo

Trastevere & Gianicolo

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 152

Trastevere & Gianicolo EAST OF VIALE DI | WEST OF VIALE DI TRASTEVERE | GIANICOLO

Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Basilica di Santa Maria tiny cobbled piazzas – try hobnobbing with local hip- in Trastevere (p154) Admir- Da Enzo. sters in a secret speakeasy ing the exquisite interior 3 (p155) in Trastevere, starting at and exterior mosaics of this Savouring the breathtaking fashionable Freni e Frizioni. beautiful church. interior decor by Raphael 5 Gianicolo Hill (p157) 2 Trattoria dining (p158) inside Trastevere’s elegant Hiking to the top of ’s Feasting on the perfect Renaissance villa. second-largest hill for a Roman carbonara or pasta 4 Cocktails (p161) magnificent panorama of cacio e pepe at traditional Sampling a Carbonara Sour, the city. trattorias hidden away on knocking back shots served in chocolate cups or 0000000 00

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e 000 V MONTEVERDE tu 000 e r o 000 AVENTINO n P 000 t 000 i ia 000 V 000 For more detail of this area see Map p308 A 153 Lonely Planet’s Explore: Trastevere & Gianicolo Top Tip Cradled in a left-bank curve of the River , medieval With its century-old biscuit Trastevere is made for walking – or rather aimless, con- shops and bakeries, family- tented wandering punctuated by endless photo stops, run trattorias, open-air food market and tiny grocery

lazy coffee breaks in local cafes, and some of Rome’s Tras finest home cooking in vintage trattorias. Allow at least stores packed to the hilt a full day to explore: key sights include glittering Basil- with carefully sourced, zero- ica di Santa Maria in Trastevere (p154); Villa Farnesina kilometre farm produce, &t evere Gianicolo (p155), one of the most breathtaking frescoed mansions Trastevere is naturally a you’re ever likely to see; and Galleria Corsini (p156) with gourmet destination – its its dazzling art collection. End your sightseeing foray gourmandise is a major with a green moment in Trastevere’s botanical gardens attraction in itself. To get or, should you be up for the stiff hike, atop Gianicolo Hill the most out of it, consider a (p157) – don’t neglect to see Bramante’s perfect little Tem- guided food tour with locals- pietto (p157) on your way up. in-the-know: Casa Mia Come dusk, bars unveil sumptuous banquets of nib- (p159) or GT Food & Travel

(p159).

 .(bles for that sacrosanct aperitivo (pre-dinner drinks Many are clustered in the small lanes around Piazza Tri- lussa; Via Benedetta is the street for international-style pubs (much loved by American students from the nearby 5 Best Places ). to Eat ¨¨Da Enzo (p158) ¨¨Da Augusto (p159) Local Life ¨¨La Prosciutteria (p159) ¨Cafe culture No cafe terrace is as no-frills or busy as ¨¨Panattoni (p158) veteran favourite Bar San Calisto (p161), notorious for ¨¨Litro (p160) serving the cheapest beer in Rome. For reviews, see p158.A ¨Home-cooking Join locals queuing at Antica Caciara Trasteverina (p163) for ingredients to make an authentic Roman carbonara. Best Places ¨ 6 Summer nights Trendy pop-up outdoor bars pepper to Drink Trastevere’s riverside quays between Mazzoni and Ponte Cesto in summer, making the river the cool ¨¨Freni e Frizioni (p161) place to be. ¨¨Bar San Calisto (p161) ¨Meeting point Locals always meet up at ‘the steps’, ¨¨Rivendita Libri, the wide short flight of steps leading up to the 17th- Cioccolata e Vino (p161) century fountain on Piazza Trilussa; in summer the ¨¨Keyhole (p161) steps are packed with people sitting here, drink in hand. ¨¨Pimm’s Good (p161) For reviews, see p161.A Getting There & Away ¨Tram From Largo di Torre Argentina tram 8 runs 1 Best Works along the main drag of Viale di Trastevere, ending up at of Art Villa Doria Pamphilj. Tram 3 also stops at the southern ¨¨Basilica di Santa Maria in end of Viale Trastevere, connecting with (Via Trastevere (p154) Marmorata), Colosseo, San Giovanni and Villa Borghese. ¨¨Basilica di Santa Cecilia ¨Bus From Termini, bus H runs to Viale di Trastevere, in Trastevere (p156) while the 780 runs from Piazza Venezia. For Gianicolo, ¨¨Villa Farnesina (p155) if you don’t fancy the steep steps from Via G Mameli, ¨¨Galleria Corsini (p156) take bus 870 from Piazza delle Rovere. For reviews, see p156.A

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