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Two Years in Oregon

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TWO YEARS IN OREGON. BY WALLIS NASH, AUTHOR OF "OREGON, THREE AND BACK IN Straight mine eye bath caught new pleasures, While the landscape round it measures, Russet lawns, and fallowa gray, Where the nibbling flocks do stray; Mountains on whose barren breast The lab'ring clouds do often rest; Meadows trim with daisies pied; Shallow brooks, and riTers wide. L'ALLEGUO. Turn, Fortune, turn thy wheel with smile or frown With that wild wheel we go not up or down; Our hoard Is little, but our hearts are great; Smile and we smile, the lords of many land.e; Frown and we smile, the lords of our own bands; For man is man and master of his fate. TaieaTsoN. NEW YORK: D. APPLETON AND COMPANY, 1, 8,AND5 BOND STREET. 1882. COFYRIORT BY D. &1'PLETON AND COMPANY 1881. I DEDICATE THIS BOOK TO MY FATHER, 'WHO, THOU&H SEVERED 'HOM US BY LAND AND OCEAN, YET LIVES WITH US IN SPLRIT. PREFACE TO TilE SECOND EDITION. IT is my grateful task to recognize the marked kindness with which my modest volume has been received by the public and the press.It is rare that a second edition of a work of the kind should be called for within three months of the first issue, and still more rare that, out of a vast number of reviews by the leading journals all over the coun- try, but one newspaper, and that the one I deemed it my duty to the State of Oregon to denounce (on page 21 ), has found aught but words of commen- dation. I desire also to tender my apologies to the es- teemed Roman Catholic Archbishop, and to the Sisters of Charity of Portland, for the error on my part in ascribing to Bishop Morris, tf the Episco- pal Church, the credit of St. Vincent's Hospital. I ought not to have forgotten to notice the Good 4 PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. Samaritan Hospital and Orphanage founded by Bishop Morris. A single remark should be added about the price or value given, on page 70, for seed-wheat as an element of the cost of the crop raised from it. The wheat reserved by the farmer for this pur- pose, being exempt from the charges and waste in- cident to hauling, storage, insurance, and sacking, necessary in marketing, is fairly estimated at sev- enty cents, though the marketed portion of the crop averages eighty-five to ninety cents; the difference being composed, in part, of profit. W.N. PREFAOE. I SEND forth this book, as sequel to the sketch published three years ago, with many misgivings rather as if one who, as a lover, had wiitten poems in praise of his mistress, should, as a two years' hus- band, give to the world his experience of the fireside charms and household excellences of his wife.Per- haps the latter might more faithfully picture her than when she was seen through the glamour of a first love. Be that as it may, it is true that the questions put from many lands, as to how we fare in this West- ern country, demand fuller answers than mere letter- writing can convey.I trust that those correspond- ents who are yet unanswered personally will find herein the knowledge they are seeking, and will accept the assurance Ihat they are themselves to blame for some of the more solid and tedious chap- ters; as, if I had not known that such information 6 FEEFA CE. were needed, I would not have ventured to put in print again that which previous and better authors have given to the world. While I have striven to write what is reallya guide-book to Oregon for the intending emigrant, others may be interested in the picture ofa young community shaping the details of theircommon life, and claiming and taking possession ofa heritage in the wilderness. No one can go farther West thanwe have done: it is fair, then, to suppose that thepurposes of the Western movement will beseen here in their fullest operation. Since 1877 a vast change has taken place in this, that Oregon now shares with older States the benefits of becoming the theatre for large railroad operations. No apology to American readers is needed for the endeavor to show things in a fairer light and differ- ent color from those chosen by persons interested in causing all men to see with theireyes.Transatlantic readers may not have thesame concern; but even from them I bespeak a hearing in matters whichmay indirectly, if not directly, touch their interests. But I do not wish to suggest that I writeas hav- ing only a general feeling that certain things would be the better for a more open discussion than they have hitherto received. Myown affairs, and those of P1?EFA CE. many friends, both in Oregon and elsewhere, and, indeed, the successful development of this great Wil- lamette Valley, largely depend on our convincingan unprejudiced public that Nature is on our side in the effort we are making to secure a direct andnear out- let to the great world. I oniy claim in these particulars to bean advocate, but I add to this a full and honest conviction of the justice of the views for which I contend. To turn again to more general matters, I have the pleasant duty of thanking several friends who have contributed to the information here collected. To our shame be it said that there was not, among our English immigrants, one naturalist who could rightly name the birds, beasts, fishes, and insects in our Western home. But I was fortunate in finding an American friend, Mr. 0. B. Johnson, of Salem, whose complete and accurate knowledge of these subjects only rendered more easy his kindly endeavors to give me the benefit of all his stores. I wish to acknowledge also the care with which, ever since our visit in 1877, the professors at the Oorvallis Agricultural College have kept the records of climate and rainfall, the results of which are now published I trust that, if any sketches in these pages are recognized as portraits, not one grain of offense will 8 PREFA CE. be taken by those who have unwittingly served as models in the life-studio. Or that, if any effect is produced, it may be as good and lasting as that which followed on a fancy picture in the former book, in which many stray touches were collected.Whether the cap fitted, or was pressed on his head by too officious neighbors, I know not; but this I know, that cleared fields, neat fences, new barn, clean house, and fitting furniture, rendered it impossible for me to recognize a tumble- down place which then served to point a warning. These improvements, I am told, the owner lays at my unconscious door. WALLI5 NASH. CORVALLIS, OREGoN, April 14, 1881. OONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE Personal reasons for coming to OregonPlans of colonizingWho cameWho have returnedWho remninBowie-knives and revolversA sheriff in dangerNo tragedyOur landing at CorvallisFrail housesPleasant welcomeThe barber's shop - Its customersGiven names - New acquaintances -Bright dressesReligious denominations 17 CHAPTER II. Whcrc we livs.Snow-peaks and distant prospectsForest-fires- The Coast Mountains and Mary's PeakSunset in Oregon Farmhouses: the log-cabin, the box-house, the frame-house- Dinner at the farmSlay and eatA rash chickenBread- making by amateursThrift and unthriftButter and cheese Products of the "range," farm, and gardenWheat-growing... CIIAPTE1I IlL The land-office; its object and functionariesHow to find your land Section 33The great conflagrationThe survivors of the fire The burnt timber and the brushThe clearing-partyChop- ping by beginnersCooking, amateur and professionalThe wild-catDeer and huntingPiling brushDear and cheap clearingThe skillful axemanClearing by ChinamenDrag- ging out stumps - What profits the farmer may expect on a valley farmOn a foot-hills farm 36 10 COHTEHTS. CHAPTEB IV. PAGE A spring ride in OregonThe startThe equipmentHorses and sad- dieryPacksThe roadsideBird fellow-travelersSnakes- The nearest farmBeesThe great pastureThe poisonous lark- spurMarket-gardeningThe Cardwell HillThe hill-top- The water-shedMary RiverCram'sThe Yaquina Valley Brush, grass, and fernThe young Englishmen's new homeA rustic bridge" Chuck-boles "The road supervisorTrapp's The mill-damSalmon-pass lawMinnows and crawfish The Pacific at restYaquinaNewport 48 CHAPTER V. Hay-harvest--Timothy-grassPermanent pastureHay-making by expressThe mower and reaperHay-stacks as novelties- Wheat-harvestThrashingThe "thrashing crowd"" Head- ers" and "self-binders "Twine-binders and home-grown flax Green food for cowsIndian corn, vctchesWild-oats in wheatTar-weed the new enemyCost of harvestingBy hired machinesBy purchased machinesCost of wheat-growing in the Willamette Valley 62 CHAPTER VI. The fanner's sports and pastimesDeer-hunting talesA roadside yarnStill-huntingHunting with houndsAn early morn- ing's sportElkThe pursuit-The killCamp on Beaver CreekFlounder-spearing by torchlightFlounder-fishing by dayIn the bayBock oystersThe evening viewThe general storeSkinsSea-ottersTheir habitsThe sea-otter hunters Common otterThe mink and his prey CHAPTER VII. Birds in OregonLarkQuailGrouseRuffed grouseWild-geese Mancsuvres in the airWjld-ducksMallardTealPintajl Wheat-duckBlack duckWood-duckSnipeFl ight-shoot- ingStewart's SloughBitternsEaglesHawksHorned owls WoodpeckersBlue-jaysCanariesThe canary that had seen the world Blue-birds Bulifinches - Snow-bunting Hum- ming-birds at home 91 COHTEHTS. 11 CHAPTER vm. Up to the CascadesFarming by happy-go-luckyThe foot-hills-PAGE Sweet Home ValleyIts name, and how deserved and proved The road by the SantiamEastward and upwardTimber- Lower Soda SpringsDifferent vegetationUpper Soda Springs - Mr. Keith - Our reception - His home and surroundings Emigrants on the roadThe emigrant's dogOff to the Spokane Whence they cameWhere they were boundStill eastward Fish LakeClear LakeFly-fishing in still waterThe down slope east - Lava-beds - Bunch-grass The valleys in Eastern OrcgonTheir products Wheat-growing thereCattle-ranch- ersTheir homeTheir lifeIn the saddle and awayBrand- ing-timeHay for the winterThe Maiheur reservationThe Indians' outbreakThe building of the roadWhen, how, and by whom builtThe opening of the passThe history of the roadSquattersThe special agent from WashingtonA sham survey 100 CHAPTER IX.
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