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Behind the Scenes

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Judd and the many locals who offered insight and OUR READERS insider knowledge along the way. At Lonely Planet, Many thanks to the travellers who used the last a huge thanks to Tasmin Waby for her support and edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful encouragement. advice and interesting anecdotes: Ben Chudoschnik, Jonathan Sise, Nicolas Granger Peter Dragicevich Researching this guidebook was an absolute pleas- WRITER THANKS ure, especially because of the wonderful company that I had on the road. Special thanks go to Braith Kate Morgan Bamkin, Peter van Gaalen, Marg Toohey and Jo Staf- Big thanks to Destination Editor Tasmin Waby for ford for all their practical assistance in , the opportunity to basically eat and drink my way and to David Mills and Barry Sawtell for the Canberra around Melbourne’s best neighbourhoods! Thank you Morrissey safari. And cheers to all my eating and to Caro Cooper for suggestions and being a drinking drinking buddies along the way, especially Errol partner on occasion, and to my partner, Trent, for all Hunt, Kim Shearman, Cristian Bonetto and Maryanne your help and support. Netto.

Kate Armstrong Trent Holden Particular thanks to Jacqui Loftus-Hills, Visit ; First up a massive thanks to Tasmin Waby for com- Wendy Jones, Goulburn River Valley Tourism; Sue missioning me to update the bulk of regional Victoria. Couttie, Tourism Northeast; Marie Glasson, Greater Was an absolute honour to cover my home state. Shepparton City Council; Fran Martin, Echuca Visitor Totally blown away how much cool stuff there is to Information Centre. Finally, to my dear friends Sue visit out here. Thanks to all the tourist visitor centres Mulligan, Lou Bull and Emmo – with thanks. across the state, who are staffed by a fantastic team of volunteers who are doing a sensational job. Cheers to everyone else for giving me the time of day for a Cristian Bonetto chat, and helping me put together this new edition. First and foremost, an epic thank you to Drew As per always lots of love to my family, particularly Westbrook for his hospitality and generosity. Sincere my partner, Kate, who I had the great fortune of thanks also to Craig Bradbery, Tim Crabtree, Amy having accompany me around this time round. Ratcliffe, Leanne Layfield, Terese Finegan, Michael Flocke, Simon Betteridge, Annabel Sullivan, Garry 376 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Cover photograph: Cape Otway National Park, SCENES THE BEHIND Great Ocean Road, Maurizio Rellini/4Corners ©

This guidebook was produced Austin, Louise McGregor, Vicky THIS BOOK by the following: Smith This 10th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Tasmin Assisting Cartographer Planet’s Melbourne & Victoria Waby James Leversha guidebook was researched and Product Editor Shona Gray Assisting Book Designer written by Kate Morgan, Kate Senior Cartographer Julie Virginia Moreno Armstrong, Cristian Bonetto, Sheridan Cover Researcher Campbell Peter Dragicevich and Trent Ania McKenzie Holden. The previous edition Book Designer Bartoszek Kate Chapman, was written by Anthony Ham, Thanks to Grace Dobell, Jenna Myers, Trent Holden and Kate Morgan. Assisting Editors Janet Kirsten Rawlings, Alison Ridg- way, Tracey Whitmey ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 377

Index

12 Apostles Gourmet Trail climate 138 Errinundra National C 188 food 138 Park 273 campervans 374 highlights 139 277 canoeing & kayaking art galleries, see museums Gunbower National 35-6, 36 A Park 315 Aboriginal Australians 127, & art galleries Apollo Bay 182 see also Aboriginal arts 11, 353-9 Lakes Entrance 270 Echuca 320 cultural sites & tours art sites 354 327, 328 Melbourne 80 art 51, 225, 226, 228, 265 Artists Lane 75 Nelson 201 Nelson 200 Brambuk Cultural Birrarung Marr 50 Queenscliff 169 Portsea 241 Centre 226 Hosier Lane 51, 83 Reserve 194 Snowy River National Bullawah Cultural Trail Keith Haring Mural 67 Warburton 146 Park 271 329 Silo Art Trail 233 Birregurra 181 Cape Bridgewater 199-200 Aboriginal cultural sites Australian Grand Prix 361 bites 366 Cape Conran Coastal & tours Australian Open 20, 361, 22 Black Saturday 149 Park 274 Budj Bim 199 boat travel 372 Cape Otway 184-5 Cape Conran 274 boating car hire 373 Cape Otway 184 B Nelson 200 Carlton & Brunswick 71 Melbourne 84 Ballarat 203-11, 206 Echuca 322 accommodation 89 248 accommodation 208 Lake Eildon 263 drinking & nightlife 117-18 Tower Hill Reserve 194 food 208 Lakes Entrance 268 food 101-4 history 336-45 sights 203 Port Albert 262 shopping 130-1 62 Barwon Heads 172 books 334, 355 sights 69-72 Krowathunkoolong bathrooms 369 breweries car travel 373 Keeping Place 266 beaches 17, , 11 83 Bright 299 Castlemaine 218-22, Narana Aboriginal Cutural 220 Gippsland 266 Castlemaine 221 Centre 162 cathedrals, see churches & Great Ocean Road 173, Forrest 183 cathedrals accommodation 364 175, 177, 200 165 caves 271 activities 35-40 see also 237 Healesville 145-6 cell phones 14, 369 individual locations St Kilda Foreshore 77 Milawa 288 children, travel with 41-3 AFL 23, 360 Williamstown Beach 72 Mildura 314 Chiltern 292-3, 11 AFL Grand Final 23 Phillip Island 252 air travel 371 258, 260 Chiltern-Mt Pilot National Red Hill 245 Park 292 Aireys Inlet 177-8 Beechworth 289-91 South Gippsland 256 Chinatown 55-6 airports 371 beer 119 Wangaratta 331 Chinese community 340 Anglesea 175-7 10, 158- Chinese New Year 20, 22 Apollo Bay 182-4 201, 10, 160-1 Bright 297-9, 298 Chinese sites & temples see, aquariums 62, 72 Bellarine Taste Trail 166 Buckley, William 170 sacred sites & temples architecture 358 Bells Beach 173, budgeting 15, 365 39 chocolateries 141, 176, 248 area codes 15, 369 Budj Bim cultural tour 199 Bendigo 211-17, 212 churches & cathedrals Around Melbourne accommodation 214 Bullawah Cultural Trail 16, 329 Sacred Heart region 44, 139 food 215 bushfires 368 Cathedral 212 138-57 sights 211 bushwalking, see hiking St Patrick’s Cathedral 262 accommodation 138 Benalla 329 bus travel 371 St Paul’s Cathedral 51, 82 bicycle travel, see cycling cinema 334, 357 birdwatching Map Pages 000 climate 14, 14 see also indi- Chiltern 292 vidual regions Photo Pages 000 Croajingolong 277 Clunes 224 378 costs 15, 365 Daylesford 150-157, 153 G climate 279 Cowes 251-2, 252, 38 design 352, 358 galleries 19, see museums food 279 craft beer 119 demographics 334 & art galleries highlights 280 cricket 360 Dimboola 233 gardens, see parks & hiking 35-6 Croajingolong National Dinner Plain 304-6 gardens Walking Park 277-8 disabilities, travellers gay travellers 124, 133, Track 264

INDEX INDEX cultural centres with 369 152, 366 Cape Conran Coastal Arts Centre diving Geelong 159-67, 162 Park 274 Melbourne 264 Cape Conran accommodation 163 Chiltern-Mt Pilot

National Park 292 C-H Ceres 70 Coastal Park 274 food 163  Gasworks Arts Park 74 Inverloch 256 sights 159 Croajingolong  Geelong Performing Arts Port Campbell 187 Gippsland 11. 11 National Park 277 Centre 265 Portsea 241 Gippsland Lakes District 11, Dayleford 150 Mildura Arts Centre 310 Queenscliff 169, 170, 241 46, 265-70, 254-5, 11 Rail Trail Wheeler Centre 265 driving tour 188, 373 Glenrowan 329 273 culture 11, 334, 353-9 Dunkeld 230-1 GLBTI travellers see 246 festivals 208, 214, 220, 329 duty-free 366 LQBTQI travellers National Park currency 14, 367 glow worms 185 (Gariwerd) 225 customs regulations 365 goldrush 219, 340-1 Great Ocean Walk 184 cycling 37, 146, 168, 190, E Goldfields 45, 202, 217-25 East Gippsland 270-8 Great Southern Rail 207, 372, 13, 37 accommodation 202 Trail 256 Echuca 317-23, 318, 32-3 Ballarat-Skipton Rail climate 202 Hepburn Springs 150 economy 335 Trail 207 food 202 Lake Eildon & Around Eildon 283-4 Beechworth 289 highlights 204 283 electricity 366 Bellarine Rail Trail 168 golf 239 Lorne 178 emergencies 15 Bright 297 Goulburn Valley 331-2 Macedon Ranges 156 Errinundra National Daylesford 150 Grampians, The 10, 45, Marysville 148 Park 273 East Gippsland Rail 225-31, 204, 224 Mt Buffalo National Eureka Rebellion 209 Trail 274 Park 296 events see festivals & Falls Creek 301 (Gariwerd) 225-6, 227, Mt Franklin 155 events French Island 246 10, 34-5 Portland 200 exchange rates 15, 367 Grampians, The 207 Great Ocean Road 9, Snowy River Great Southern Rail 45, 158-201, 160, 5, National Park 271 Trail 256 F 8-9, 26 Torquay 175 Melbourne 84, 135 Falls Creek 300-3, 13, 39 accommodation 158 Upper Yarra Valley 146 Mildura 310 Falls Festival 178 climate 158 Wilsons Promontory High Country farmers market, see food 158 National Park 258 Rail Trail 326 markets highlights 160 Wodonga 326 Lilydale to Warburton fashion 351-2 tours 173 historic buildings & sites Rail Trail 146 festivals & events 20-3 Great Otway National Park Abbotsford Convent 66 Murray to Mountains fire bans 231 184, 2 , 26-7 Rail Trail 297, 329 Fish Creek 258 Great South West Walk 198 203 O’Keeffe Rail Trail 214 fishing 38, 269, 283, 324 Gunbower National Battery Hill 195 Port Fairy to Warrnam- Fitzroy, Collingwood & Park 315 Beechworth 289 bool Rail Trail 168, 190 Abbotsford Castlemaine 218 Point Nepean National accommodation 88-9 Park 242 H Como House 75 drinking 114-17 Wodonga 326 Halls Gap 226-30, 229 Cooks’ Cottage 66 food 98-101 Wyperfeld National Hanging Rock 156 Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village 190 Park 328 nightlife 114-17 Harcourt 222-3 Fort Nepean 242 shopping 128-30 Harold Holt 243 168 sights 66-9 Harrietville 303-4 D Geelong Waterfront Flinders 243-4 Hattah-Kulkyne National dance 358 Carousel 159 Flinders St Station 82 Park 327 Dandenongs 140-1, 142 Government House 75 food 346-50 Healesville 141, 143-4, 145 festivals 162, 223, 54 National Park 140 health 366-7 287, 293 Nicholas Building 62 Hepburn Springs 150-7, 151 Old Geelong Gaol 159 food trucks 111 High Country 13, 46, 279- 60 Map Pages 000 Forrest 183 306, 280, 302, 13, 34 Old Treasury Building 54 Photo Pages 000 French Island 245-7 accommodation 279 Parliament House 54 379 2, 28 Maremmas 195 90, 105-6, 119, 131 Swan Hill 315, 32 French Island 245 markets 18, 66, 74, 349 Prahran 74-5, 90-1, 106- Port Fairy 198 Great Ocean Road 175, Camberwell Sunday 8, 119-20, 132-3 Royal Arcade 59 141 Market 130 Richmond 64-6, 88, 97-8, Royal Exhibition Building Mallacoota 275 Castlemaine Farmers 114, 128, 65 70 Phillip Island 249 Market 219 shopping 127-8, 351-2

Sandhurst Gaol 213 267 Prahran Market 75 sights 50-80 INDEX 203 Tower Hill Reserve 194 Queen Victoria South Melbourne 73-4, Market 60, 89-90, 105-6, 119, 131 historical sites see, Wombat State Forest 151 18

historical buildings South Melbourne South Yarra 74-5, 90-1,  H-M Koonwarra 257-8 & sites Market 73 106-8, 119-20, 132-3 Kyneton 217-18  ,history 336-45 St Andrews Community Southbank 63-4, 87-8 holidays 368 Market 148 96-7, 114, 128 horse racing 362 L Wilsons Promontory 258 St Kilda 12, 75-80, 91-2, horse riding 38 Lake Eildon 283 Maryborough 224-5 108-10, 133, 78, 12, 43 Airey’s Inlet 177 149-50 Marysville 148-9 tickets 126, 136 Falls Creek 300 lakes 11 Melbourne 9, 48-137, 49, tourist information 133-7 Lake Eildon 283 Lakes Entrance 268-71, 52-3, 56, 61, 65, 68, tours 84 transport 134-6 Mansfield 284 270 76, 78, 2, 9, 36, 82-83 travel to/from 371-4 Red Hill 244, language 14 Abbotsford 66-7, 88-9, travel within 372-4 98-101, 114-17, 128- Snowy River National legal matters 367 walking tour 61, 61 30, Park 271 lesbian travellers 124, 133, 68 Windsor 74-5, 90-1, 106- accommodation 48, Horsham 231-2 152, 366 8, 119-20, 132-3 85-92 Hosier Lane 51, 83 LGBTQI travellers 124, 133, Yarraville 115, 131 152, 366 activities 80-5 houseboats 13, 31, 35, 365 Melbourne Airport 135 Albert Park 73-4, 89-90, lighthouses 365 Melbourne Cup 23, 362 Echuca 322 105-6, 119, 131 Cape Nelson 201 Melbourne colour Lake Eildon 284 architecture 359 Cape Otway 184 feature 82-83 Mallacoota 276 books 334 Cape Schanck 242 Melbourne’s West Mildura 313 Brunswick 69-72, 89, Flagstaff Hill drinking & nightlife Nelson 200 101-4, 117-18, 130-1, 71 Maritime Village 190 118-19 Carlton 69-72, 89, 101-4, Fort Queenscliff 168 food 104-5 117-18, 130-1, 71 I Gabo Island 276 shopping 131 city centre 50-1, 54-5, internet access 367 sights 72-3 Mallacoota 275 58-63, 85-7, 93-6, 110- internet resources 15 Point Hicks 278 14, 52-3, 56-7 Metung 267-8 Inverloch 256-7 Point Lonsdale 167, 10 climate 48 microbreweries 119 itineraries 24-33, 24, 26, Shipwreck Coast 186 Collingwood 66-9, 88-9, Milawa Gourmet Region , , 29 30 33 Split Point 177 98-101, 114-17, 128- 288-9 Wilsons Promontory 30, 68 Mildura 13, 310-15, 311, 13 J National Park 261 Docklands 63-4, 87-8, mobile phones 14, 369 Jamieson 284 literature 354 96-7, 114, 128 money 14, 15, 367 John Batman 338-9 festivals 224 drinking 110-14 monthly events 20 Little Desert National East Melbourne 64-6, 88, Mornington 237-9 Park 234 97-8, 114, 128, 65 Mornington Peninsula 10, K live music 17, 23, 122-4, fashion 351-2 45, 235-52, 236, 238, kangaroos 18 165, 221, 355-7 films 334 2, 10 Great Ocean Road 175, Lorne 178-81, 179 Fitzroy 66-9, 88-9, 98- accommodation 235 Gunbower National Luna Park 12, 13, 43 101, 114-17, 128-30, 68 climate 235 Park 315 Lower Yarra Valley food 48, 92-6 food 235 Halls Gap 226 141-6, 144 Footscray 72-3, 104-5, highlights 236 Healesville Sanctuary 141 118-19, 131 Mornington Peninsula Mallacoota 275 free activities 81 National Park 242 Raymond Island 267 M highlights 49 motorcycle travel 373 Macedon Ranges 156-7 Tower Hill Reserve 194 history 338-45 mountain-biking 183, Maffra 266 Wombat State Forest 151 itineraries 51 284, 301 Maldon 223-4 kayaking see, canoeing & nightlife 110-14 Mt Arapiles State Park Mallacoota 275 kayaking North Melbourne 72, 232, 34-5 Kennett River 182 Mallee, The 327 89, 104 Mt Baw Baw 282-3 Kiewa Valley 299-300 mallee scrub 328 Parkville 72, 89, 104 Mt Beauty 299-300 King Valley 287-8 Mansfield 284-6 Port Melbourne 73-4, 89- 380 Mt Buffalo Immigration Museum 62 Dandenong Ranges PS Adelaide 320 National Park 296 James Makin Gallery 67 National Park 140 PS Alexander Arbuthnot Mt Buller 286-7, 30-1 Jewish Holocaust Errinundra National 320 Mt Hotham 304-6, 37 Centre 80 Park 273 PS Canberra 320 multiculturalism 343-5 Jewish Museum of Grampians National Park PS Emmylou 320 (Gariwerd) 225-6, Murray, The 13, 46, 307-32, 79 PS Melbourne 311 227, 10, 34 INDEX INDEX 308, 13 Justin Art House PV Mundoo 315 Great Otway National accommodation 307 Museum 75 PS Pevensey 320 Park 184, 2, 26-7 climate 307 Keith Haring Mural 67 PS Pride of the Linden New Art 79 Gunbower National N-T Murray 320  food 307 Park 315 highlights 308 69 PS Pyap 315 Hattah-Kulkyne National  Museo Italiano 70 museums & art Park 327 PV Rothbury 311 Museum of Australian galleries 354 Little Desert National parks & gardens Democracy at Eureka Alcaston Gallery 67 Park 234 Ballarat Botanic Gardens 203 Anna Schwartz Lower Glenelg National 203 Gallery 63 National Sports Museum Birrarung Marr 50 64 Park 198 Artery 190 Ceres 70 National Wool Museum Mornington Peninsula Australian Centre for 159 National Park 242 64 Contemporary Art 63 NGV International 63 Mt Arapiles State 62 Australian Centre for the Park 232 Rosalind Park 213 Moving Image 50 Port of Echuca Discovery Centre 319 Mt Buffalo National Royal Botanic Australian Galleries 67 Park 296 Powerhouse Geelong 159 Gardens 74 Australian National Mt Eccles-Budj Bim Qdos Art Gallery 178 Royal Park 72 Surfing Museum 173 National Park 199 Queenscliff Gallery 168 St Kilda Botanical Backwoods Gallery 67 Point Nepean National Gardens 79 Bendigo Art Gallery 212 Queenscliff Maritime Park 242 Museum 168 Yarra Bend Park 66 Boom Gallery 159 Port Campbell National Salt Gallery 168 passports 369 Burke Museum 289 Park 186-7 Scienceworks 72 penguin parade 248 Castlemaine Art Gallery Snowy River National penguins 12, 77, 195, 248, TarraWarra Museum of Park 271-2 & Historical Museum 275, 12 219 Art 141 Wilsons Promontory Phillip Island 12, 247-52, Tolarno Galleries 63 Marine National Park Centre for Contemporary 249, 12, 28 Photography 67 Walhalla Historical 260 planning 14, see Museum 264 Wilsons Promontory Charles Nodrum Gallery also individual regions 66 Warrnambool Art National Park 12, 258- calendar of events 20-3 Chinese Museum 58 Gallery 190 62, 259, 12, 18, 28-9 children 41-3 Convent Gallery 150 West Space 63 Wyperfeld National Park 328 itineraries 24-33 Cook Street Wishart Galley 194 Melbourne basics 14 Collective 244 music 355-7 Yarra Ranges National Park 146 outdoor activities 34-40 Counihan Gallery 72 music festivals Ned Kelly 330, 341 repeat visitors 16 Echuca Historical Queenscliff 170 Museum 319 Lorne 178 Nelson 200-1 travel seasons 14 Geelong Art Gallery 159 Port Fair Folk Festival newspapers 368 Victoria’s regions 44-6 Gertrude Contemporary 195 Ninety Mile Beach 266 Point Lonsdale 167, 10 Art Space 67 Maldon 223 Point Nepean National Park 242 Gippsland Art Beechworth 290 O Gallery 265 politics 334-5, 344-5 Bright 298 Ocean Grove 171-2 Golden Dragon Museum population 335 Wangaratta 330 Orbost 273 & Gardens 211 Port Albert 262-3 Omeo 306 70 Port Campbell 187-9 Otway Fly 185 Hellenic Museum 62 N Port Campbell National outdoor activities 34-50, Horsham Regional Art Nagambie 322 Park 186-7 see also individual Gallery 231 national parks activities Port Fairy 195-8, 196 Barmah National Park Ian Potter Centre: NGV Port Fairy Folk Festival 21 323 Australia 50 Portland 198-9 Cape Conran Coastal Ian Potter Museum of P Portsea 241-2 Art 70 Park 274 paddle-steamers 13, 17, 35, postal services 368 Chiltern-Mt Pilot 42, 310, 13, 32 public holidays 368 National Park 292 Echuca 320 Map Pages 000 Croajingolong National Murray River Paddle Park 277-8 Photo Pages 000 Steamers 320 381 Q sights 63-4 travel with wine festivals 162, 223, QT Melbourne 16 South Gippsland 256-8 children 41-3 287, 293 wineries 349 Queenscliff 168-71, 169 South Melbourne, Port travel within Victoria 372-4 Melbourne & Albert Trentham 156-7 Bellarine Peninsula Park TV 368 166-7, 175 R accommodation 89-90 Twelve Apostles 187, 188 Castlemaine 221

radio 368 drinking 119 Daylesford 155 INDEX Raymond Island 267 food 105-6 Milawa Gourmet Region Red Hill 244-52 nightlife 119 V 288 regional towns 11, 17 vacations 368 Mildura 312 shopping 131  T-Z religion 335 sights 73-4 vegan travellers 348 Mornington Peninsula  reservations 93 South Yarra, Prahran vegetarian travellers 348 247 Richmond & East & Windsor visas 14, 369 Nagambie 332 Melbourne 65 accommodation 90-1 visual art 353-4 Port Fairy 197 accommodation 88 drinking 119-20 Red Hill 252 drinking 114 food 106-8 W Rutherglem 294 food 97-8 nightlife 119-20 Wagaunyah 295 Swan Hill 317 nightlife 114 shopping 132-3 Walhalla 263 Yarra Valley 145-6 shopping 128 sights 74-5 walking see hiking winery restaurants 349 sights 64-6 Spa Country 150-6, 151, wallabies 18, see also Goldfields & Grampi- rock climbing 226, 232 153 kangaroos ans 221 rugby 361 spas 151, 239 Wangaratta 329-32 Great Ocean Road & Bellarine Peninsula Rutherglen 293-6, Warburton 146 31 sport 11, 20-3, 360, 11 166-7, 175, 197 AFL Grand Final 20-3 Warrnambool 190-4, 191 High Country 288, 294 S Australian Open 20 websites 364 Mornington Peninsula & sacred sites & temples stings 366 West Gippsland 263-5 Phillip Island 247, 252 Great Stupa of Universal St Kilda 12, 78, 12, 43 whale watching 192, 198 Spa Country 155 Compassion 213 accommodation 91-2 What’s New 16 The Murray 312, 317, 332 Joss House Temple 214 food 108-10 Wilderness Coast 270-8 Yarra Valley 145-6 safety 368-9 shopping 133 wildlife 42, 234 winter sports see skiing & Sale 265-6 sights 75-80 dolphins 170, 240 snowboarding Seymour 328 , see art sites echidnas 175, 275 Winton 16, 329 Shepparton 332 sunburn 367 malleefowl 327 Wodonga 325 shopping 51-2 surfing 40, 173, 175, 195, penguins 12, 77, 195, women travellers 369 skiing & snowboarding 250, 276, 39 248, 275 Wye River 181-2 13, 40 Swan Hill 315-17, 32 seals 200, 240, 248, 250 Wyperfeld National Park Dinner Plain 304 wallabies 151, 162, 195 328 Falls Creek 300-1 wombats 151, 175, 228 T Lake Mountain 149-50 wildlife sanctuaries Tastes of Rutherglen 21 Y Mt Baw Baw 282-3 Healesville Sanctu- temples, see sacred ary 141 Yackandandah 291-2 Mt Buller 286-7 sites & temples Conservation Yanackie & Foster 261 Mt Hotham 304 tennis 360 Centre 249 Yarra Glen 141-3 skin cancer 367 telephones 369 William Ricketts Sanctuary 36, 82 skydiving 332 theatre 358 140, 3 Yarra Valley 141-50, 144 smoking 368 Tidal River 261 Wilsons Promontory 12, 12 Marysville 148-9 snowboarding see skiing & time 369 Wilsons Promontory Yarrawonga 324-5 snowboarding tipping 368 National Park 12, 254, Snowy River National Park toilets 369 258-62, 12, 18, 28-9 271-2 Torquay 173-6 Wilsons Promontory & Z soccer 361 ziplining 185 tourist information 369 Gippsland 253-78, 254 Sorrento 240-1, 25 zoos see also aquariums, tours 374 accommodation 253 Southbank & Docklands wildlife sanctuaries Tower Hill Reserve 194 climate 253 accommodation 87-8 207 train travel 371-2, 374 food 253 drinking 114 228 trams 373 highlights 254 food 96-7 284 transport 371-4 Wilsons Promontory Ma- nightlife 114 72 travel to/from rine National Park 260 shopping 128 wine 349-50 Werribee Open Range Victoria 371-4 Zoo 73 382 NOTES EMMA NEUVONEN

LONELY PLANET IN THE WILD

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Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/ International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Kate Morgan Having worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade now, Kate has been fortunate enough to cover plenty of ground working as a travel writer on destinations such as Shanghai, Japan, India, Zimbabwe, the Philippines and Phuket. She has done stints living in London, Paris and Osaka but these days is based in one of her favourite regions in the world – Victoria, Australia.

Kate Armstrong Kate Armstrong has spent much of her adult life travelling and living around the world. A full-time freelance travel journalist, she has contributed to around 40 Lonely Planet guides and trade publications and is regularly published in Australi- an and worldwide publications. Kate has worked in Mozambique, picked grapes in France and danced in a Bolivian folkloric troupe. A keen photographer, greedy gourmand and festival goer, she enjoys exploring off-the-beaten track locations.

Cristian Bonetto Cristian has contributed to over 30 Lonely Planet guides to date, including New York City, Italy, Venice & the Veneto, Naples & the Amalfi Coast, Denmark, Copenhagen, Sweden and Singapore. Lonely Planet work aside, his musings on travel, food, culture and design appear in numerous publications around the world. When not on the road, you’ll find the reformed playwright and TV script- writer slurping espresso in his beloved hometown, Melbourne.

Peter Dragicevich After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi wanderlust, giv- ing up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on a disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He calls Auckland, New Zealand his home – although his nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere.

Trent Holden A Geelong-based writer, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30 plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to unearth cool bars, art, street food and under- ground subculture.He also writes books to tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa and the subcontinent.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 10th edition – Nov 2017 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1786571533 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 2017 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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