Behind the Scenes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 375 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. Judd and the many locals who offered insight and OUR READERS insider knowledge along the way. At Lonely Planet, Many thanks to the travellers who used the last a huge thanks to Tasmin Waby for her support and edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful encouragement. advice and interesting anecdotes: Ben Chudoschnik, Jonathan Sise, Nicolas Granger Peter Dragicevich Researching this guidebook was an absolute pleas- WRITER THANKS ure, especially because of the wonderful company that I had on the road. Special thanks go to Braith Kate Morgan Bamkin, Peter van Gaalen, Marg Toohey and Jo Staf- Big thanks to Destination Editor Tasmin Waby for ford for all their practical assistance in Melbourne, the opportunity to basically eat and drink my way and to David Mills and Barry Sawtell for the Canberra around Melbourne’s best neighbourhoods! Thank you Morrissey safari. And cheers to all my eating and to Caro Cooper for suggestions and being a drinking drinking buddies along the way, especially Errol partner on occasion, and to my partner, Trent, for all Hunt, Kim Shearman, Cristian Bonetto and Maryanne your help and support. Netto. Kate Armstrong Trent Holden Particular thanks to Jacqui Loftus-Hills, Visit Victoria; First up a massive thanks to Tasmin Waby for com- Wendy Jones, Goulburn River Valley Tourism; Sue missioning me to update the bulk of regional Victoria. Couttie, Tourism Northeast; Marie Glasson, Greater Was an absolute honour to cover my home state. Shepparton City Council; Fran Martin, Echuca Visitor Totally blown away how much cool stuff there is to Information Centre. Finally, to my dear friends Sue visit out here. Thanks to all the tourist visitor centres Mulligan, Lou Bull and Emmo – with thanks. across the state, who are staffed by a fantastic team of volunteers who are doing a sensational job. Cheers to everyone else for giving me the time of day for a Cristian Bonetto chat, and helping me put together this new edition. First and foremost, an epic thank you to Drew As per always lots of love to my family, particularly Westbrook for his hospitality and generosity. Sincere my partner, Kate, who I had the great fortune of thanks also to Craig Bradbery, Tim Crabtree, Amy having accompany me around this time round. Ratcliffe, Leanne Layfield, Terese Finegan, Michael Flocke, Simon Betteridge, Annabel Sullivan, Garry 376 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Cover photograph: Cape Otway National Park, BEHIND THE SCENES Great Ocean Road, Maurizio Rellini/4Corners © This guidebook was produced Austin, Louise McGregor, Vicky THIS BOOK by the following: Smith This 10th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Tasmin Assisting Cartographer Planet’s Melbourne & Victoria Waby James Leversha guidebook was researched and Product Editor Shona Gray Assisting Book Designer written by Kate Morgan, Kate Senior Cartographer Julie Virginia Moreno Armstrong, Cristian Bonetto, Sheridan Cover Researcher Campbell Peter Dragicevich and Trent Ania McKenzie Holden. The previous edition Book Designer Bartoszek Kate Chapman, was written by Anthony Ham, Thanks to Grace Dobell, Jenna Myers, Trent Holden and Kate Morgan. Assisting Editors Janet Kirsten Rawlings, Alison Ridg- way, Tracey Whitmey ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 377 Index 12 Apostles Gourmet Trail climate 138 Errinundra National C 188 food 138 Park 273 campervans 374 highlights 139 Gippsland 277 canoeing & kayaking art galleries, see museums Gunbower National 35-6, 36 A Park 315 Aboriginal Australians 127, & art galleries Apollo Bay 182 see also Aboriginal arts 11, 353-9 Lakes Entrance 270 Echuca 320 cultural sites & tours art sites 354 Mallee 327, 328 Melbourne 80 art 51, 225, 226, 228, 265 Artists Lane 75 Nelson 201 Nelson 200 Brambuk Cultural Birrarung Marr 50 Queenscliff 169 Portsea 241 Centre 226 Hosier Lane 51, 83 Tower Hill Reserve 194 Snowy River National Bullawah Cultural Trail Keith Haring Mural 67 Warburton 146 Park 271 329 Silo Art Trail 233 Birregurra 181 Cape Bridgewater 199-200 Aboriginal cultural sites Australian Grand Prix 361 bites 366 Cape Conran Coastal & tours Australian Open 20, 361, 22 Black Saturday 149 Park 274 Budj Bim 199 boat travel 372 Cape Otway 184-5 Cape Conran 274 boating car hire 373 Cape Otway 184 B Nelson 200 Carlton & Brunswick 71 Melbourne 84 Ballarat 203-11, 206 Echuca 322 accommodation 89 Phillip Island 248 accommodation 208 Lake Eildon 263 drinking & nightlife 117-18 Tower Hill Reserve 194 food 208 Lakes Entrance 268 food 101-4 history 336-45 sights 203 Port Albert 262 shopping 130-1 Koorie Heritage Trust 62 Barwon Heads 172 books 334, 355 sights 69-72 Krowathunkoolong bathrooms 369 breweries car travel 373 Keeping Place 266 beaches 17, , 11 83 Bright 299 Castlemaine 218-22, Narana Aboriginal Cutural 220 Gippsland 266 Castlemaine 221 Centre 162 cathedrals, see churches & Great Ocean Road 173, Forrest 183 cathedrals accommodation 364 175, 177, 200 Geelong 165 caves 271 activities 35-40 see also Mornington Peninsula 237 Healesville 145-6 cell phones 14, 369 individual locations St Kilda Foreshore 77 Milawa 288 children, travel with 41-3 AFL 23, 360 Williamstown Beach 72 Mildura 314 Chiltern 292-3, 11 AFL Grand Final 23 Wilsons Promontory Phillip Island 252 air travel 371 258, 260 Chiltern-Mt Pilot National Red Hill 245 Park 292 Aireys Inlet 177-8 Beechworth 289-91 South Gippsland 256 Chinatown 55-6 airports 371 beer 119 Wangaratta 331 Chinese community 340 Anglesea 175-7 Bellarine Peninsula 10, 158- Chinese New Year 20, 22 Apollo Bay 182-4 201, 10, 160-1 Bright 297-9, 298 Chinese sites & temples see, aquariums 62, 72 Bellarine Taste Trail 166 Buckley, William 170 sacred sites & temples architecture 358 Bells Beach 173, budgeting 15, 365 39 chocolateries 141, 176, 248 area codes 15, 369 Budj Bim cultural tour 199 Bendigo 211-17, 212 churches & cathedrals Around Melbourne accommodation 214 Bullawah Cultural Trail 16, 329 Sacred Heart region 44, 139 food 215 bushfires 368 Cathedral 212 138-57 sights 211 bushwalking, see hiking St Patrick’s Cathedral 262 accommodation 138 Benalla 329 bus travel 371 St Paul’s Cathedral 51, 82 bicycle travel, see cycling cinema 334, 357 birdwatching Map Pages 000 climate 14, 14 see also indi- Chiltern 292 vidual regions Photo Pages 000 Croajingolong 277 Clunes 224 378 costs 15, 365 Daylesford 150-157, 153 G climate 279 Cowes 251-2, 252, 38 design 352, 358 galleries 19, see museums food 279 craft beer 119 demographics 334 & art galleries highlights 280 cricket 360 Dimboola 233 gardens, see parks & hiking 35-6 Croajingolong National Dinner Plain 304-6 gardens Australian Alps Walking Park 277-8 disabilities, travellers gay travellers 124, 133, Track 264 INDEX cultural centres with 369 152, 366 Cape Conran Coastal Arts Centre diving Geelong 159-67, 162 Park 274 Melbourne 264 Cape Conran accommodation 163 Chiltern-Mt Pilot C-H Ceres 70 Coastal Park 274 food 163 National Park 292 Gasworks Arts Park 74 Inverloch 256 sights 159 Croajingolong Geelong Performing Arts Port Campbell 187 Gippsland 11. 11 National Park 277 Centre 265 Portsea 241 Gippsland Lakes District 11, Dayleford 150 Mildura Arts Centre 310 Queenscliff 169, 170, 241 46, 265-70, 254-5, 11 East Gippsland Rail Trail Wheeler Centre 265 driving tour 188, 373 Glenrowan 329 273 culture 11, 334, 353-9 Dunkeld 230-1 GLBTI travellers see French Island 246 festivals 208, 214, 220, 329 duty-free 366 LQBTQI travellers Grampians National Park currency 14, 367 glow worms 185 (Gariwerd) 225 customs regulations 365 goldrush 219, 340-1 Great Ocean Walk 184 cycling 37, 146, 168, 190, E Goldfields 45, 202, 217-25 East Gippsland 270-8 Great Southern Rail 207, 372, 13, 37 accommodation 202 Trail 256 Echuca 317-23, 318, 32-3 Ballarat-Skipton Rail climate 202 Hepburn Springs 150 economy 335 Trail 207 food 202 Lake Eildon & Around Eildon 283-4 Beechworth 289 highlights 204 283 electricity 366 Bellarine Rail Trail 168 golf 239 Lorne 178 emergencies 15 Bright 297 Goulburn Valley 331-2 Macedon Ranges 156 Errinundra National Daylesford 150 Grampians, The 10, 45, Marysville 148 Park 273 East Gippsland Rail 225-31, 204, 224 Mt Buffalo National Eureka Rebellion 209 Trail 274 Grampians National Park Park 296 events see festivals & Falls Creek 301 (Gariwerd) 225-6, 227, Mt Franklin 155 events French Island 246 10, 34-5 Portland 200 exchange rates 15, 367 Grampians, The 207 Great