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Home , Ballarat Wildlife Park, French Island (Victoria), Geelong Art Gallery, Grainger Museum, Halls Gap Zoo, HMAS Castlemaine

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Behind the Scenes

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AUTHOR THANKS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Anthony Ham Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Thanks to Maryanne Netto for sending me World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate to such wonderful places – your legacy will Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System endure. To co-authors Trent and Kate who Sciences, 11, 163344. brought such excellence to the book. To David Andrew for so many wise wildlife tips. And to Cover photograph: Loch Ard Gorge, Port every person whom I met along the road – Campbell National Park, David South/Alamy. from knowledgeable and patient tourist-office staff to other travellers. And to Marina, Carlota and Valentina – home is wherever you are. Trent Holden & Kate Morgan A huge thanks to the lovely Maryanne Netto for giving us the chance to work on our hometown book – a great gig. To coordinating author, Anthony Ham, it’s always such a pleasure to work with you. We’d like to thank both of our families, especially Tim and Larysa, Gary and Heather, for all of your help, not to mention a place to crash at times! Shout out to Shaun at Port Fairy Motors for your help in getting us back on the road quick smart in a time of chaos. To Linda Bosidis, Caro Cooper, Jane Ormond, Paul and Max Waycott, Alex and Mat Forsman, cheers for great insider tips and sug- gestions. Finally big thanks to Tasmin Waby, Glenn van der Knijff and all of the in-house staff who worked hard on this book during a tough transitional time. 351 BEHIND THE SCENES

Anita Banh, Nielson, Nielson, Karyn Noble, Darren MartineO’Connell, Power, Matthew Riddle, Luke Savage, Angela Tinson, Anna Tyler, Glenn van der Knijff, Ilona Watkins Cover Research Naomi Parker Thanks to Imogen Elin Bannister, Berglund, David Carroll, Andrew Brendan Dempsey, Dixon, Paul Harding, Noirin David Andrea Hegarty, Kemp, Kate Mathews, Leber, Yvonne Catherine Naghten,

Carolyn

Assisting Editors Bain, Carolyn Boicos, Lauren Hunt, Katie Ali Lemer, SusanO’Connell, Paterson Assisting Cartographers Mick Garrett, DianaHoldt Von Commissioning Editor Maryanne Netto Destination Editor Waby Tasmin Product Editor Elizabeth Jones Senior Cartographer Julie Sheridan Book Designer Jessica Rose

- & Victoria following: by Jayne D’Arcy, Paul Hard by Jayne D’Arcy, ing and This Donna Wheeler. guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office and produced by the Planet’s Planet’s guidebook was researched and written by Anthony Ham, Trent Holden and Kate The Morgan. previous edition was written THIS BOOK This 9th edition of Lonely ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 352

Index

A Walking Seaspray 243 Woodend 148 Abbotsford Convent 62 Track 234 Sorrento 220 Yarra Valley 139 Aboriginal people Australian Centre for the St Kilda 71 Bright 271-4, 272 Moving Image (ACMI) arts 70 Torquay 162 Brunswick 97-9, 110 113 cultural centres 57, 65-6, Warrnambool 177 Buchan 249 Australian Formula One 70, 154, 160, 208, 210 Grand Prix 335 239 Buchan Caves Reserve 249 food 319 Australian Motorcycle Beech Forest 173 Buckley, William 221 history 308-9 Grand Prix 226 266-9 budgeting 15 rock art 208, 10 Australian Open (tennis) beer 108, 293, see also Bunjil 58 tours 57, 80, 154, 208, 285 336 breweries Bunurong Marine & accommodation 338-9, see Australian Rules Football 22, 41, Coastal Park 236 also individual locations 118, 334-5 157-62 bus travel 128, 346, 347 activities 34-7, see also accommodation 149 54, 302, 303, individual activities Bellarine Taste Trail 161 314, 315 AFL 22, 118, 334-5 B Bells Beach 163-4 bushwalking, see walking B&Bs 339 air travel 345, 346 Benalla 302 business hours 340 Bairnsdale 244 165-6 Bendigo 196-201, 197 190-5, 192 airports 345 children, travel with 198 ballet 118, 332 C Albert Park 74-5 bicycle travel, see cycling, Balnarring 222 cafes 321 Albert Park Lake 74-5 mountain biking Bandt, Adam 307 campervans 348 Albury 304 Big Desert Wilderness Barmah National Park 298 Park 288 camping 338 276 Barwon Heads 160-2 canoeing 35 amusement parks 73 bike-sharing program 75 Batman, John 310, 311 295 Anglesea 164-5 birdwatching 243, 254, 288 Baw Baw National Park 257 242 animal bites & stings 342 Birregurra 168 Baw Baw Village 257 Melbourne 75 animals, see individual Cape Bridgewater 185 animals beaches 19 139, 140 Cape Conran Coastal Park apartments 339 Anglesea 164 Blairgowrie 218, 220 170 Block Arcade 56 252 Apollo Bay 170-2 Cape Duquesne 185 aquariums 57, 157 Barwon Heads 160 boat travel 77, 157, 346, 347 Bells Beach 163-4 boating 34 Cape Howe Wilderness arcades 54, 56 Area 254 architecture 332-3 Bunurong Marine & books 327-8 Coastal Park 236 Cape Otway 173-4 area codes 343 cooking 322 Cape Bridgewater 185 Cape Woolamai 230, 5 art galleries, see Brambuk Cultural Centre Croajingolong National 210 car hire 348 museums & car travel 127-8, 347-8 galleries Park 254 breweries 17 caravanning 338 arts 10, 326-33, see also Cumberland River 169 Beechworth 268 literature, music, Elwood 74 Bright 273 Carlton 66 visual arts Fairhaven 165 Forrest 171 accommodation 86 58 Gibson Beach 175 155 drinking & nightlife 109-10 Arthurs Seat 218 Johanna Beach 174 Gippsland 238 food 97-9 Ash Wednesday 140 Lorne 166 High Country, the 261 shopping 124 ATMs 341 Mallacoota 253 Melbourne 63, 108 sights 63-7 284 Mildura 287 casinos 57 Mornington 217 Otways, the 173 Castlemaine 202-5, 203 Map Pages 000 Ninety Mile Beach 243 Red Hill 224 cathedrals, see churches & Photo Pages 000 226-7 304 cathedrals 353 Cave, Nick 329 High Country, the 268, Eureka Stockade 190, 191, Forrest 171 caves 249 271 313-14 Fort Nepean 222 cell phones 343 Mansfield 262 events, see festivals 157 children, travel with 38-9, Melbourne 75 & events Foster 239, 241-2 80, 198 Rutherglen 299 exchange rates 15 224-5 Chiltern 301-2 safety 36 Chinatown 52-4 Warrnambool 179 F INDEX churches & cathedrals Yarra Valley 138 G Fairhaven 165-6 galleries, see museums & Yarrawonga 298 Sacred Heart Cathedral Falls Creek 275-7, 12 galleries

C-G  198 Falls Festival 168 Gariwerd 207-9, 209 Scots Church 56  ,D farmers 307 gay travellers 104-5, 142-3 St Michael’s Uniting dance 118, 332 fashion 324-5 340 Church 56 Dandenongs, the 131-3, 132 Fawkner, John Pascoe 311 Geelong 152-7, St Patrick’s Cathedral 57 153 dangers 125, 342-3 45, Gippsland 42, 231-55, St Paul’s Cathedral 49 10 Daylesford 141-7, 145 ferry travel 77, 157, 346, 232-3 cideries 139 Dimboola 214 347 accommodation 231 cinema, see film Dinner Plain 278-80 festivals & events 20-3, see climate 231 cinemas 113-14 disabilities, travellers also individual festivals food 231 classical music 118, 328 & events, individual with 343 highlights 232-3 climate 14, 20-3, see distilleries 176, 271, 301 locations also individual regions travel seasons 231 diving, see also snorkelling film festivals 21, 22, 104, clothing, see fashion, 168, 331 Coastal Apollo Bay 171 Park 243 markets, shopping music festivals 168, Gippsland 236, 252 Clunes 195 329, 330 Glenelg River 186 Port Campbell 176 coffee 321 sporting events 334 Glenrowan 302, 303 Portsea 222 Coldstream 134, 137, 139 film 306, 330-1 glow-worms 170, 173, 271 Queenscliff 158 Collingwood, see Fitzroy festivals 21, 22, 104, gold rush 194, 312-13, Docklands 314-15 Collingwood Children’s 168, 331 Farm 62 drinking & nightlife 106 Fish Creek 237-8 Golden Triangle, the 204 comedy 115 food 93 fishing 36 Goldfields region 41, 187- sights 57-9 207, 188-9 consulates 340 Gippsland 247, 253 dog-sled tours 279 accommodation 187 contemporary art 327 High Country, the 275 dolphins 220, 253 climate 187 Cook, Captain James 61, Lake Eildon 260 food 187 255, 309 drinking 321-3, see also individual locations Corryong 274 218 highlights 188-9 drinks, see beer, coffee, costs 15 291 travel seasons 187 tea, wine courses 79-80, 235, 238, Port Campbell 175 golf driving 127-8, 347-8 271, 272 Fitzroy Anglesea 164 Dromana 218 64 Cowes 229, 228 Hepburn Springs 142 Dunkeld 212 accommodation 85-6 Craig’s Hut 261 Melbourne 77 DVDs 341 drinking & nightlife credit cards 341 107, 109 Mildura 284 cricket 335 food 95-7 Mornington Peninsula Croajingolong National E shopping 121-3 223 Park 254-5 Rail sights 61-3 Queenscliff 157 cross-country skiing 141, Trail 251 Flinders 223-4 290 see also skiing East Melbourne 60 Flinders Street Station Yarrawonga 298 141 accommodation 85 48-9 Goongerah 251 Mt Baw Baw 257 sights 59-61 food 318-23, see also Goulburn Valley 302 Mt Buffalo 270 Echuca 292-7, 294 individual locations graffiti 327 Mt Buller 263 economy 306-7 Bellarine Peninsula 161 Grainger, Percy 66-7, 328 Mt Hotham 278 Eildon 260-1 Great Ocean Road 176 , the 10, 41, 187, culture 306-7, 326-33 electricity 340 High Country, the 266 207-14, 188-9 Cumberland River 169 embassies 340 Milawa Gourmet Region accommodation 187 customs regulations 340 emergencies 15, 126, 341 265-6 climate 187 cycling 34, 35-6, 346-7, see entertainment, see food trucks 94 food 187 also mountain biking individual locations football (Australian Rules) highlights 188-9 Bellarine Peninsula 159 environmental hazards 342 22, 118, 334-5, see also travel seasons 187 soccer Bendigo 198 environmental issues 307 Footscray 59 events 36 Errinundra National Park (Gariwerd) 207-9, 209 Gippsland 237, 251 250-1 Formula One racing 335 Grand Ridge Road 238 354 Great Ocean Road 9, 41, Carman’s Tunnel 205 Grampians, the 208 L 149-86, 150-1 Central Deborah Lake Eildon 260 292 accommodation 149 Goldmine 196 Mansfield 262 Lake Charm 292 car travel 156 Collins Settlement Mornington Peninsula Lake Eildon National Park climate 149 Historic Site 220 223 257, 260 food 149 Como House 70-1 Mt Bogong 275 Lake Elizabeth 171

INDEX INDEX highlights 150-1 Flagstaff Hill Maritime Warrnambool 179 Lake Mountain 141 Village 177 tours 163 Horsham 213 Lake Nagambie 302 Fort Queenscliff 157 travel seasons 149 Hosier Lane 48, 56 Lake Nhill 214

G-L Government House 70  Great Ocean Walk 16, 172 hostels 339 Lake Weeroona 198 Historic Port of Echuca hot springs 19, 218 Great South West Walk 185 190  293 Great Southern Rail Trail hotels 339 Lakes District 12, 242-8 Maryborough Railway 237 Station 206 houseboats 339 Lakes Entrance 246-8, 181 49 Echuca 296 246-7 guesthouses 339 54 Lake Eildon 260 Lakes National Park 244 Gunbower National Park Old Mildura Homestead Mildura 286 Lalor, Peter 313, 314 292 284 Swan Hill 291 laneways 9, 56 Old Psyche Bend Pump language 14 lawn bowls 78, 159 H Station 284 I Halls Gap 210-12, 211 Parliament House 49, 52 immigration 344 leeches 342 hang-gliding 270 Portland Historic Indigenous peoples, see legal matters 341 Hanging Rock 148 Waterfront 184 Aboriginal people lesbian travellers 104-5, Harcourt 205 Rio Vista 284 indoor rock climbing 78, 142-3, 340 Harrietville 277-8 Royal Arcade 54 see also rock climbing lighthouses Hattah Lakes 289 Royal Exhibition insurance 341 accommodation 339 Hattah-Kulkyne National Building 66 internet access 126, 341 Cape Nelson Lighthouse Park 289 Young & Jackson’s 49 internet resources 15, 126 186 Healesville 134-7 historic towns 19, 39 Inverloch 235-6 Cape Otway Lightstation 173 135 history 308-17 itineraries 24-33 health 341 books 328 Cape Schanck Lightstation 223 hedge mazes 217, 271 Dreamtime 308 Flagstaff Hill 177 Heide Museum of Modern Eureka Stockade 190, J Art 62, 326-7 191, 313-14 Jamieson 261 Lightstation 253 Heidelberg School (art European settlement jazz 330 movement) 326 309-11 Jeparit 288 Lighthouse 255 Hepburn Bathhouse & founding of Melbourne Johanna Beach 164, 174 Spa 142 310-11 Lighthouse 160 Hepburn Springs 141-7, 142 gold rush 194, 312-13, Hester, Joy 45, 327 314-15 K Kangaroo Lake 292 165 High Country, the 12, 42, Great Depression 315 Karbeethong 253 Wilsons Promontory 239 256-80, 258-9 Great Ocean Road 164 Lilydale to Warburton Rail accommodation 256 kayaking 35 immigration 312, 316, Trail 138 climate 256 320, 321 Apollo Bay 170 Linga 288-9 food 256 Indigenous peoples Echuca 295 literature 327-8, see also 308-9 Melbourne 75 highlights 258-9 books Kelly, Edward (Ned) 54, Warrnambool 179 travel seasons 256 Little Desert National Park 302, 303, 314, 315 Yarrawonga 298 hiking, see walking 213-14 prehistory 308 Kelly, Edward (Ned) 54, historic buildings & sites live music 17-18, 115-17, 329 HMAS Castlemaine 77 302, 303, 314, 315 Abbotsford Convent 62 Loch Ard 175 Hoddle, Robert 311 Kelly Gang, the 303, 315 Battery Hill 181 Loch Ard Gorge 175 holidays 342 Kennett River 170 Beechworth Historic Loch Sport 244 Hollow Mountain 207 Kiewa Valley 274-5 Precinct 267 London Bridge (Port King Valley 265 Bonegilla 304 horse racing 336 Campbell National Briars, the 218 horse riding 36 Kinglake 134, 140 Park) 175 Byramine Homestead Aireys Inlet 165 kiteboarding 78-9 London Bridge (Portsea) 298 Bendigo 198 170, 224-5, 226 222 Corryong 274 Koonwarra 237 Lorne 166-9, 167 Daylesford 142 57 Lower Glenelg National Map Pages 000 Echuca 295 Korumburra 236-7 Park 186 Photo Pages 000 Falls Creek 276 Kyneton 201-2 Luna Park 73, 11 355 M Melbourne Airport 126-127, Mt Donna Buang 138 Echuca Historical Macedon Ranges 147-8 345 Mt Ellery 250-1 Museum 293 MacKillop, St Mary 184 accommodation 81 Mt Feathertop 277, 278 Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village 177 Mahogany Ship, the 181 Mt Franklin 146 (MCG) 59-60, 334 Gallery Gabrielle Pizzi 63 Maldon 205-7 Mt Hotham 278-80 Melbourne Cup 23, 336 152 Mallacoota 252-4, 12 Mt Macedon 147, 148 Melbourne General Mt St Phillack 257 Gertrude Contemporary INDEX , the 288-9 Cemetery 67 Art Space 63 Mt Stapylton 207 mallee gums 289 Melbourne International Gippsland Regional Mt Stirling 261 Man from Snowy River, Comedy Festival 21 Maritime Museum 242 Mt Sturgeon 212  M The 261, 274 65-6 Gold Dragon Museum & Mansfield 261-3 multiculturalism 312, 316, Gardens 196 Melbourne Planetarium 76 320, 321 markets 17, 123, 322, 325 Goldfields Historical Murray cod 291 Apollo Bay Community 58 Museum 204 Murray River region 42, Market 170 Merricks 222 66-7 281, 282-3 Bright 271 Great Aussie Beer Shed Metung 245-6 accommodation 281 Footscray Market 59 293 microbreweries, see climate 281 Geelong Vintage Market breweries Great Ocean Road food 281 156 Midsumma Festival 20 National Heritage highlights 282-3 Centre 166 Gippsland 236 Milawa Gourmet Region travel seasons 281 Mansfield 261 265-6 Hadfield’s Rod Museum Murray to Mountains Rail 202 Prahran Market 71 Mildura 12, 284-8, 285 Trail 268, 271, 303 Heide Museum of Queen Victoria mobile phones 343 Market 55 Murray-Sunset National Modern Art 62, 326-7 Moggs Creek 165 Park 288-9 Red Hill Market 224 Hellenic Museum 55 money 15, 126, 341-2 museums & galleries 18 South Melbourne History House 184 Mora, Mirka 327 Market 74 Alcaston Gallery 63 History of Motorsport Morgan, Dan ‘Mad Dog’ 303 Marlo 251-3 Anna Schwartz Museum 226 Mornington 217-18 Gallery 55 Maryborough 206-7 Horsham Regional Art Mornington Peninsula 41, Army Museum Bandiana Gallery 213 Marysville 139-41 215-24, 216, 219 304 Ian Potter Centre: NGV mazes 217, 271 accommodation 215 45 MCG 59-60, 334 climate 215 190 Ian Potter Museum of measures 341 food 215 Australian Centre for Art 66 medical services 126 Contemporary Art 58 highlights 216 Immigration Museum 57 Melba, Dame Nellie 328 Australian Centre for the travel seasons 215 Jewish Holocaust Melba Gully 173 Moving Image (ACMI) Centre 74 Mornington Peninsula 45, 48 Melbourne 40, 44-128, National Park 223 Jewish Museum of , , , , , Benalla Art Gallery 302 Australia 71 46-7 50-1 56 60 64 motels 339 66, 68, 72 Bendigo Art Gallery 198 Johnston Collection 61 motorcycle grand prix 226 accommodation 44, 81-9 Bonegilla Migrant Kyneton Historical motorcycle travel 127-8, Experience 304 Museum 201 activities 75-9 347-8 Boom Gallery 152 Linden Arts Centre & children, travel with 80 mountain biking 35-6, see Buda 202 Gallery 73 climate 44 also cycling Burke Museum 267 Living Museum 59 courses 79-80 Bright 271 Castlemaine Art Gallery drinking & nightlife Maldon & District Forrest 171 & Historical Museum 102-13 Museum 205 Harrietville 277 202 entertainment 113-19 Man from Snowy River Lake Mountain 141 Celia Rosser Gallery Museum 274 food 44, 89-102 237-8 Mansfield 262 Melbourne Museum 65-6 free attractions 74 Centre for Mt Buller 264 Melbourne Planetarium GLBT culture 104-5 Contemporary Mt Hotham 278 76 highlights 46-7 Photography (CCP) 63 MoVida 90 Monash University internet resources 126 Charles Nodrum Mt Abrupt 212 Gallery 61 Museum of Art itineraries 48 (MUMA) 74 Mt Arapiles State Park 213 Chinese Museum 53-4 shopping 119-25 Mt Baw Baw 257 Mornington Peninsula sights 45-75 Collingwood Arts Regional Gallery 217 Mt Beauty 274-5 Precinct 63 tours 80-1 Museo Italiano 67 Mt Bogong 274 Convent Gallery 142 travel seasons 44 Museum of Australian Mt Buffalo 270 Costume & Pioneer Democracy at Eureka travel to/from 126-7 Museum 302 Mt Buffalo National Park 191 travel within 127-8 270-1 Dunkeld Historical National Alpine Museum walking tour 56 Society Museum 212 Mt Buller 263-5 of Australia 263-4 356 museums & galleries national parks Olympic Games 315 calendar of events 20-3 continued Alpine National Park 276 Omeo 280 children, travel with 38-9 National Holden Museum Barmah National Park opening hours 340 internet resources 15 293 298 opera 118 itineraries 24-33 National Sports Museum Baw Baw National Park Orbost 251 Melbourne & Victoria 60 257 basics 14-15 National Wool Museum 152 Otway Fly 173 INDEX INDEX Chiltern-Mt Pilot outdoor activities 34-7 NGV International 57-8 outdoor activities 34-7, National Park 301 see also individual repeat visitors 16 Old Geelong Gaol 152 Croajingolong National activities travel seasons 14, 20-3 Old Melbourne Gaol 54 Park 254-5 M-Q Oxley 265-6 Victoria’s regions 40-2  Old Treasury Building 49 Point Cook 79

Orbost Exhibition Centre National Park 131  Point Gellibrand 77 251 Errinundra National Park P Polly Woodside 58 250-1 paddle steamers 251, 284- Point Hicks 255 Port Fairy History Grampians National Park 5, 290, 293, 294-5 Point Lonsdale 160 Museum 181 (Gariwerd) 207-9, 209 paddleboarding 78-9, 182 Point Nepean National Portland Maritime Gunbower National paragliding 271 Park 222-3 Discovery Centre 184 Park 292 parking 128 politics 306-7, 316-17, 329 Qdos Art Gallery 167 Hattah-Kulkyne National parks & gardens, see population 306, 307 Queenscliff Maritime Park 289 also national parks Port Albert 242 Museum 157 Lake Eildon National Bendigo 198 Port Campbell 175-7 RAAF Museum 79 Park 257, 260 Birrarung Marr 48 Port Fairy 181-4, 182 76 Lakes National Park 244 Castlemaine 202 Port Melbourne 74-5 Sorrento Museum 220 Little Desert National Ceres 67 Portland 184-5 190 Park 213-14 Cheetham Wetlands 77 Portsea 222 State Library of Victoria Lower Glenelg National Daylesford 142 possums 55, 292, 309 54 Park 186 61 postal services 126, 342 Surf World Museum 162 Mornington Peninsula Sutton Gallery 63 National Park 223 55, 57 Power, Harry 265 Swan Hill Pioneer Mt Buffalo National Park Geelong 154 Power’s Lookout 265 Settlement 290 270-1 Herring Island Park 71 Prahran 68 Swan Hill Regional Art Murray-Sunset National Horsham 213 accommodation 86-7 Gallery 290 Park 288-9 Kyneton 201 drinking & nightlife TarraWarra Museum of Port Campbell National Macedon Ranges 147 110-12 Art 135 Park 174 Mornington 217 food 101 Tolarno Galleries 55 Port Nepean National National Rhododendron shopping 124-5 Walhalla Historical Park 222-3 Museum 234 Gardens 131 sights 69-71 Snowy River National Warrnambool Art Royal Botanic Gardens Provenance 268 Park 249-50 Gallery 179 69-70 PS Adelaide 293 Tarra-Bulga National West Space 55 St Kilda Botanical PS Alexander Arbuthnot Park 238 Gardens 73 Williamstown Railway 294 Wilsons Promontory Museum 76-7 Yarra Bend Park 62-3 PS Canberra 294 National Park 11, 42, Worsley Cottage 206 passports 344 PS Curlip 251 231, 238-42, 240, 11 music 306, 328-30 Paynesville 244-5 Wyperfeld National PS Emmylou 295 classical music 118 pelicans 245 Park 288 PS Melbourne 284 festivals 168, 329, 330 Penguin Parade (Phillip Yarra Ranges National PS Pevensey 293, 295 Island) 226 live music 17-18, 115-17, Park 138 PS Pride of the 329 penguins 174, 226, 253, Neighbours 332 11 Murray 295 opera 118 Phar Lap 65, 313 Nelson 186 PS Pyap 290 musicals 114 Phillip Island 11, 41, 215, newspapers 126, 341 public holidays 342 MV Mary Ann 295 225-30, 216, 227 Nhill 214 public transport 128 Myrtleford 270 accommodation 215 Ninety Mile Beach 243 Puffing Billy 131 climate 215 Nolan, Sir Sidney 45, 326 punk music 329, 330 highlights 216 N Nooramunga Marine & PV Mundoo 284 travel seasons 215 Nagambie 302 Coastal Park 242 PV Rothbury 285, 12 National Gallery of Victoria Northcote, see Fitzroy phonecards 343 (NGV) International 57 Picnic at Hanging Rock 148 Pink Lakes 288 Q O planning 14-5, see also 55 Map Pages 000 Ocean Grove 160 individual regions Queenscliff 157-9, 158 Photo Pages 000 Old Melbourne Gaol 54 budgeting 15 357 R Scienceworks 76 Melbourne 75-7 tours 80-1, 348-9 radio 341 Sealers Cove Walk 241, 11 Mt Buller 264 Tower Hill Reserve 180-1 rail trails 346 seals 185, 226, 253 spiders 342 train travel 39, 128, 346, 244-5 Seaspray 243 sport 10, 119, 334-6, see 348, see also scenic railways Red Hill 224 Seaworks 16, 76 also individual sports tram travel 81, 128 Reed, John & Sunday Seddon 59 St Andrews 138

transport 345-9 INDEX 62, 326 Serra Range 207 St Kilda 11, 72 travel to/from Victoria religion 307 Shepherds Flat 146 accommodation 87-8 345-6 rental accommodation 339 Shipwreck Coast 175 drinking & nightlife

travel within Victoria 346-9  R-W Rhyll 229-30 shopping 324-5, see also 112-13 trekking, see walking Richmond 60 individual locations food 99-101  Trentham 147-8 drinking & nightlife 106-7 70 shopping 125 True History of the Kelly food 94 Simone, Patrizia 272 sights 71-4 Gang 303, 314, 328 shopping 125 skiing 12, 37, see also stand-up paddleboarding Tucker, Albert 45, 62, 327 sights 59-61 cross-country skiing 78-9, 182 Twelve Apostles 174, Riley, Jack 274 Falls Creek 275 State Library of 8 Victoria 54 rock art 208, 10 Lake Mountain 141 street art 327 rock climbing 78, 207, 213, Mt Baw Baw 257 V 270, 271 Mt Buller 263-4 sunburn 343 vacations 342 117 Mt Hotham 278-9 superb parrot 298 vaccinations 341 Royal Arcade 54 skydiving 302 surfing 37, see also surfing vegetarian travellers 320 lessons Royal Botanic Gardens snakes 342 256-80 Bells Beach 163-4 69-70 snorkelling, see also diving Victorian Football League Gippsland 236, 253 Royal Exhibition Gippsland 236 (VFL) 335 Building 66 Great Ocean Road 37 Port Campbell 176 visas 344 Royal Mail Hotel 212 Mornington Peninsula Portsea 222 visual arts 55, 326-7 Royal Melbourne 67 222 Queenscliff 158 von Guérard, Eugene 326 rugby 335-6 Phillip Island 226-7 snowboarding 12, 37 Vue de Monde 92 running 78, 336 Torquay 162 Falls Creek 275 Rutherglen 299-302 surfing lessons, see also Mt Baw Baw 257 surfing W Mt Hotham 278-9 Anglesea 164 Wahgunyah 301 S snowshoeing 264, 275 Apollo Bay 170 Walhalla 13, 234-5 safe travel 125, 342-3 Snowy River National Park Inverloch 235 walking 34-5 sailing 78 249-50 Lakes Entrance 247 Bendigo 198 Sale 242-3 soccer 335 Lorne 168 Bright 271 sanctuaries, see wildlife Sorrento 220-2 Mornington Peninsula Cape Conran Coastal sanctuaries South Melbourne 223 Park 252 scenic flights accommodation 88-9 Port Fairy 182 Chiltern-Mt Pilot Bright 271 drinking & nightlife 112 Torquay 162 National Park 301 Geelong 154 food 102 Warrnambool 179 French Island 224-5 Mansfield 262 shopping 125 Swan Hill 289-91 Gippsland 234, 237, Melbourne 80 sights 74-5 swimming 78 244, 251 Mildura 286 South Yarra 68 safety 342-3 Grampians, the 207, Phillip Island 228 accommodation 86-7 208, 214 Port Campbell 175 drinking & nightlife Great Ocean Road Torquay 162 110-12 T 172, 176 scenic railways 39 food 101 taxis 128 Harrietville 277 Bellarine Peninsula shopping 124-5 tea 321 High Country, the 257 Railway 39, 158 sights 69-71 telephone services 343 Lakes Entrance 247 Daylesford Spa Country Southbank television 331, 341 Lorne 166 Railway 142 food 93 tennis 336 Mallacoota 253 sights 57-9 theatre 114-15, 331-2 Mansfield 262 39, 218 Sovereign Hill 190 ticks 342 Marysville 139 Puffing Billy 39, 131 spas Tidal River 238 Mt Beauty 274 South Gippsland Timboon 176 Mt Buffalo 270 Railway 237 Daylesford 143 Dinner Plain 278 tipping 341-2 Mt Hotham 278 Victorian Goldfields toll roads 128, 347-8 Port Fairy 182 Railway 202, 205 Gippsland 237, 247 Torquay 162-3 Portland 185 Walhalla Goldfields Hepburn Springs 142, tourist information 126, 343 Sale 242-3 Railway 234, 13 143 358 walking continued West Melbourne 59, 76-7 Gippsland 238 Y Snowy River National Westgate Bridge 76, 77 Grampians, the 210 Yackandandah 269-70 Park 250 whale watching 177, 179, Great Ocean Road Yanakie 239, 241-2 Warrnambool 179 253 164, 176 Yarra Ranges National Wilsons Promontory Wheeler Centre 54 King Valley 265 Park 138 238-9, 241 White Night Melbourne 20 Macedon Ranges 147 34, 35, 62-3, 81,

INDEX INDEX Wangaratta 302-4 wi-fi access 341 Milawa Gourmet Region 134, 138, 308 Warburton 138 wildlife 19, 39 265-6 Yarra Valley 134-41, 134 Warrnambool 177-80, 178 wildlife sanctuaries Mildura 284 Yarra Valley Cider & Ale

W-Z Wartook Valley 212-13 Ballarat Bird World 191 Mornington Peninsula Trail 16, 139  waterfalls Jirrahlinga & 224 135  Beauchamp Falls 173 Wildlife Sanctuary 160 Mt Beauty 275 Yarraville 59 Erskine Falls 168 Williamstown 76-7 Nagambie 302 Yarrawonga 298-9 173 Wilsons Promontory 11, 42, Phillip Island 227-8 Little River Falls 249 231, 238-42, 240, 11 Rutherglen 300 Windsor 69, Wahgunyah 301 Z McKenzie Falls 207 68 ziplining 173 accommodation 86-7 Werribee 79 Steavenson Falls 139 , see also aquariums, 173 drinking & nightlife Yackandandah 269 wildlife sanctuaries 110-12 waterskiing 295 Yarra Valley 137 191 food 101 weather 14, 20-3, see Wodonga 304 210 shopping 124-5 also individual regions women travellers 344 261-2 windsurfing 78-9 websites 15, 126 Woodend 148 Royal 67 wine 322-3, see also weights 341 Wurundjeri people 308-9, Werribee Open Range wineries Welcome Stranger gold 319 Zoo 79 nugget 204 wineries 17, 322-3 Wye River 170 Werribee 79 Bellarine Peninsula 161 Wyperfeld National Park 288

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 359

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Shinto Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Sikh Lookout Taoist Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Winery/Vineyard Oasis International Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Park State/Province Other Sight Pass Disputed Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Activities, Waterfall Marine Park Courses & Tours Cliff Bodysurfing Population Wall Diving Capital (National) Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Course/Tour City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Drinking & Nightlife Tram Mudflat Cafe Underground station Park/Forest Other Transport Entertainment Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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