Behind the Scenes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 350 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. AUTHOR THANKS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Anthony Ham Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Thanks to Maryanne Netto for sending me World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate to such wonderful places – your legacy will Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System endure. To co-authors Trent and Kate who Sciences, 11, 163344. brought such excellence to the book. To David Andrew for so many wise wildlife tips. And to Cover photograph: Loch Ard Gorge, Port every person whom I met along the road – Campbell National Park, David South/Alamy. from knowledgeable and patient tourist-office staff to other travellers. And to Marina, Carlota and Valentina – home is wherever you are. Trent Holden & Kate Morgan A huge thanks to the lovely Maryanne Netto for giving us the chance to work on our hometown book – a great gig. To coordinating author, Anthony Ham, it’s always such a pleasure to work with you. We’d like to thank both of our families, especially Tim and Larysa, Gary and Heather, for all of your help, not to mention a place to crash at times! Shout out to Shaun at Port Fairy Motors for your help in getting us back on the road quick smart in a time of chaos. To Linda Bosidis, Caro Cooper, Jane Ormond, Paul and Max Waycott, Alex and Mat Forsman, cheers for great insider tips and sug- gestions. Finally big thanks to Tasmin Waby, Glenn van der Knijff and all of the in-house staff who worked hard on this book during a tough transitional time. 351 BEHIND THE SCENES Commissioning Editor Cover Research THIS BOOK Maryanne Netto Naomi Parker This 9th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Thanks to Anita Banh, Planet’s Melbourne & Victoria Tasmin Waby Imogen Bannister, Elin guidebook was researched and Product Editor Berglund, David Carroll, written by Anthony Ham, Trent Elizabeth Jones Brendan Dempsey, Andrew Holden and Kate Morgan. The Senior Cartographer Dixon, Paul Harding, Noirin previous edition was written Julie Sheridan Hegarty, David Kemp, Andrea by Jayne D’Arcy, Paul Hard- Book Designer Yvonne Leber, Kate Mathews, ing and Donna Wheeler. This Jessica Rose Catherine Naghten, Victoria guidebook was commissioned Nielson, Karyn Noble, Darren Carolyn in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne Assisting Editors O’Connell, Martine Power, Bain, Carolyn Boicos, office and produced by the Matthew Riddle, Luke Savage, Lauren Hunt, Ali Lemer, Katie following: Angela Tinson, Anna Tyler, O’Connell, Susan Paterson Glenn van der Knijff, Ilona Assisting Cartographers Watkins Mick Garrett, Diana Von Holdt ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 352 Index A Australian Alps Walking Seaspray 243 Woodend 148 Abbotsford Convent 62 Track 234 Sorrento 220 Yarra Valley 139 Aboriginal people Australian Centre for the St Kilda 71 Bright 271-4, 272 Moving Image (ACMI) arts 70 Torquay 162 Brunswick 97-9, 110 113 cultural centres 57, 65-6, Warrnambool 177 Buchan 249 Australian Formula One 70, 154, 160, 208, 210 Grand Prix 335 Wilsons Promontory 239 Buchan Caves Reserve 249 food 319 Australian Motorcycle Beech Forest 173 Buckley, William 221 history 308-9 Grand Prix 226 Beechworth 266-9 budgeting 15 rock art 208, 10 Australian Open (tennis) beer 108, 293, see also Bunjil 58 tours 57, 80, 154, 208, 285 336 breweries Bunurong Marine & accommodation 338-9, see Australian Rules Football 22, Bellarine Peninsula 41, Coastal Park 236 also individual locations 118, 334-5 157-62 bus travel 128, 346, 347 activities 34-7, see also accommodation 149 bushrangers 54, 302, 303, individual activities Bellarine Taste Trail 161 314, 315 AFL 22, 118, 334-5 B Bells Beach 163-4 bushwalking, see walking B&Bs 339 air travel 345, 346 Benalla 302 business hours 340 Bairnsdale 244 Aireys Inlet 165-6 Bendigo 196-201, 197 Ballarat 190-5, 192 airports 345 children, travel with 198 ballet 118, 332 C Albert Park 74-5 bicycle travel, see cycling, Balnarring 222 cafes 321 Albert Park Lake 74-5 mountain biking Bandt, Adam 307 campervans 348 Albury 304 Big Desert Wilderness Barmah National Park 298 Park 288 camping 338 Alpine National Park 276 Barwon Heads 160-2 canoeing 35 amusement parks 73 bike-sharing program 75 Batman, John 310, 311 Echuca 295 Anglesea 164-5 birdwatching 243, 254, 288 Baw Baw National Park 257 Gippsland 242 animal bites & stings 342 Birregurra 168 Baw Baw Village 257 Black Saturday bushfires Melbourne 75 animals, see individual Cape Bridgewater 185 animals beaches 19 139, 140 Cape Conran Coastal Park apartments 339 Anglesea 164 Blairgowrie 218, 220 Apollo Bay 170 Block Arcade 56 252 Apollo Bay 170-2 Cape Duquesne 185 aquariums 57, 157 Barwon Heads 160 boat travel 77, 157, 346, 347 Bells Beach 163-4 boating 34 Cape Howe Wilderness arcades 54, 56 Area 254 architecture 332-3 Bunurong Marine & books 327-8 Coastal Park 236 Cape Otway 173-4 area codes 343 cooking 322 Cape Bridgewater 185 Cape Woolamai 230, 5 art galleries, see Brambuk Cultural Centre Croajingolong National 210 car hire 348 museums & car travel 127-8, 347-8 galleries Park 254 breweries 17 caravanning 338 arts 10, 326-33, see also Cumberland River 169 Beechworth 268 literature, music, Elwood 74 Bright 273 Carlton 66 visual arts Fairhaven 165 Forrest 171 accommodation 86 Arts Centre Melbourne 58 Gibson Beach 175 Geelong 155 drinking & nightlife 109-10 Arthurs Seat 218 Johanna Beach 174 Gippsland 238 food 97-9 Ash Wednesday 140 Lorne 166 High Country, the 261 shopping 124 ATMs 341 Mallacoota 253 Melbourne 63, 108 sights 63-7 Mildura 284 Mildura 287 casinos 57 Mornington 217 Otways, the 173 Castlemaine 202-5, 203 Map Pages 000 Ninety Mile Beach 243 Red Hill 224 cathedrals, see churches & Photo Pages 000 Phillip Island 226-7 Wangaratta 304 cathedrals 353 Cave, Nick 329 High Country, the 268, Eureka Stockade 190, 191, Forrest 171 caves 249 271 313-14 Fort Nepean 222 cell phones 343 Mansfield 262 events, see festivals Fort Queenscliff 157 children, travel with 38-9, Melbourne 75 & events Foster 239, 241-2 80, 198 Rutherglen 299 exchange rates 15 French Island 224-5 Chiltern 301-2 safety 36 Chinatown 52-4 Warrnambool 179 F INDEX churches & cathedrals Yarra Valley 138 G Fairhaven 165-6 galleries, see museums & Yarrawonga 298 Sacred Heart Cathedral Falls Creek 275-7, 12 galleries 198 C-G Falls Festival 168 Gariwerd 207-9, 209 Scots Church 56 D farmers 307 gay travellers 104-5, 142-3, St Michael’s Uniting dance 118, 332 fashion 324-5 340 Church 56 Dandenongs, the 131-3, 132 Fawkner, John Pascoe 311 Geelong 152-7, St Patrick’s Cathedral 57 153 dangers 125, 342-3 Federation Square 45, Gippsland 42, 231-55, St Paul’s Cathedral 49 10 Daylesford 141-7, 145 ferry travel 77, 157, 346, 232-3 cideries 139 Dimboola 214 347 accommodation 231 cinema, see film Dinner Plain 278-80 festivals & events 20-3, see climate 231 cinemas 113-14 disabilities, travellers also individual festivals food 231 classical music 118, 328 & events, individual with 343 highlights 232-3 climate 14, 20-3, see distilleries 176, 271, 301 locations also individual regions travel seasons 231 diving, see also snorkelling film festivals 21, 22, 104, clothing, see fashion, 168, 331 Gippsland Lakes Coastal Apollo Bay 171 Park 243 markets, shopping music festivals 168, Gippsland 236, 252 Clunes 195 329, 330 Glenelg River 186 Port Campbell 176 coffee 321 sporting events 334 Glenrowan 302, 303 Portsea 222 Coldstream 134, 137, 139 film 306, 330-1 glow-worms 170, 173, 271 Queenscliff 158 Collingwood, see Fitzroy festivals 21, 22, 104, gold rush 194, 312-13, Docklands 314-15 Collingwood Children’s 168, 331 Farm 62 drinking & nightlife 106 Fish Creek 237-8 Golden Triangle, the 204 comedy 115 food 93 fishing 36 Goldfields region 41, 187- sights 57-9 207, 188-9 consulates 340 Gippsland 247, 253 dog-sled tours 279 accommodation 187 contemporary art 327 High Country, the 275 dolphins 220, 253 climate 187 Cook, Captain James 61, Lake Eildon 260 food 187 255, 309 drinking 321-3, see also Mornington Peninsula individual locations Corryong 274 218 highlights 188-9 drinks, see beer, coffee, costs 15 Murray River 291 travel seasons 187 tea, wine courses 79-80, 235, 238, Port Campbell 175 golf driving 127-8, 347-8 271, 272 Fitzroy Anglesea 164 Dromana 218 64 Cowes 229, 228 Hepburn Springs 142 Dunkeld 212 accommodation 85-6 Craig’s Hut 261 Melbourne 77 DVDs 341 drinking & nightlife credit cards 341 107, 109 Mildura 284 cricket 335 food 95-7 Mornington Peninsula Croajingolong National E shopping 121-3 223 Park 254-5 East Gippsland Rail sights 61-3 Queenscliff 157 cross-country skiing 141, Trail 251 Flinders 223-4 Swan Hill 290 see also skiing