SHIRAK Region (Shiraki Marz)

® TourArmenia Travel Guide century the area was controlled by the Note about pronunciation: we transcribe words Highlights Kamsarakans, with their royal palace believed to SHIRAK Marz using local dialect, and substitute “i” for “y” as in be found at Beniamin. They were practically Giumri for Gyumri. “p.” stands for poghots • Stay in Giumri and savor its Belle ÞÇñ³Ï Ù³ñ½ wiped out when they led a rebellion against the (street), ‘pts.’ For poghotsner (streets), ‘pta.’ for Époque center, brisk mountain air and Arshakuni kings. Later the area had become the poghota (avenue). its joie de vivre lifestyle (on page 6) property and patronage of the Bagratuni family, th th By Rick Ney Note: GPS coordinates are in decimal degrees • Take a walking tour of Old Giumri the founders of the Second Kingdom (9 -13 Maps by Rafael Torossian (DD) Latitude x Longitude. Elevation (elev.) is in (Alexandropol), the largest collection centuries), anchored in the fabled city of Ani, just Edited by Bella Karapetian meters. Population counts (pop.) are estimates of 19th c. historic houses in Armenia over the Turkish border near Kharkov in for 7 km radius from place and due to ongoing (on page 6) southeastern Shirak. Many Churches and There are 3 parts to the Shirak/Giumri Guide, migrations the numbers are not exact. monasteries from this period dot the landscape, each is a separate PDF: • Visit Marmashen, the monastery of the following the spice trail to Ani and beyond. 1. Shirak Region (Separate PDF) Pahlavuni princes, with its nearby th 2. Giumri (This File) INTRODUCTION ancient burial ground and 7 c BCE The capital of the region is Giumri, which is also 3. Giumri Walking Tours (Separate PDF) Shirak is a land of contrasts. In northwest Urartu King Argishti stone inscription. Armenia’s second city and location of the largest Armenia, it is as much semi-desert as it is TABLE OF CONTENTS (on page 6) collection of intact historic buildings in the mountain meadow or high alpine. In the south, th Caucasus, over 1000 buildings from the 18 and • Visit the mountain monasteries at Artik INTRODUCTION (p. 1) the high steppes crash into mountain terrain, 19th centuries, hallmarks of the “Armenian Belle (on page 10) and Pemzashen (on page DO (p. 1) verdant green in the spring, hues of reddish Époque”. 12), featuring Lmbatavank, WHEN? (p. 1) brown in the summer. Everywhere is the snow capped Aragats and dots of green in the Markaravank and the incredible

landscape, spring fed villages and farms giving Harichavank. DO: NATURE (p. 2) sustenance to the wayward traveler. In the north Explore Giumri’s Old Center with one of our th th lies Armenia’s Alpine Region, a mountain meadow • Climb the western face of Aragats to walking tours. Visit the 9 -13 cc Marmashen HISTORY (p. 2) covered with wildflowers from April through July, Mantash Lake, with its pristine arctic Monastery nested in the Akhurian Valley. Explore Prehistoric Age with rolling hills punctuated by rugged peaks and waters, camping and fishing. While the monasteries and Bronze Age fortresses Copper and Bronze Ages the Georgian frontier. In the East are the foot there visit the nearby Mets Mantash around Artik: Sarnaghpiur, Markaravank, Kumaiyri – Urartian, Roman eras hills of Aragats and Mt. Urasar leading to Lori’s Vank and settlement, hallmarks of the Lernakert & Harich. Find a guide to take you to Early Christian Era – Middle Ages forest land. Medieval period on Mt. Aragats. (on the border and gaze on the fabled city of Ani. Empire City page 12) Explore Armenia’s Alpine country at Arpi Lich, The Armenian Belle Époque The region is anchored by the Akhurian river visiting one of the idyllic villages on the flower- Genocide & First Republic • Explore the archeological sites of the valley, an agricultural oasis that provided laden slopes around the lake. Eat at one of The Soviet Period Arshakuni and Kamsarakan family sustenance to millennia of civilizations, starting rd Giumri’s great restaurants; drink in the Poloz Earthquake and Second Republic seats at Beniamin (on page 9), the 3 from Paleolithic settlements found in the Giumri Mukuch tavern in Giumri. Go up to Georgia, Shirak Now m. BCE excavation at Horom (on page region through each epoch of Armenia’s growth. cross over into Akhalkalaki and Akhaltsikhe. 9), the Hellenistic finds at Shirakavan,

IN AND OUT (p. 5) Dairy products are among the most prized of (on page 14), OVERNIGHT / EAT (5) Shirak’s exports, and the season—though short WHEN? due to Shirak’s high altitude, produce some of • Make your way to the border by DESTINATIONS (p. en page 5) Shirak is the coldest region of Armenia. Average Armenia’s best fruits and vegetables (though that Kharkov, and gaze on Ani, the amazing altitude at 2100 meters in the Alpine area. NATURE TOURING legendary Shirak tomato, like the elusive big one Medieval city of 1000 churches and Nature-Adventure Tour Operators Summers are wonderful; the air is clean, days that got away, grows more succulent and pride of the Bagratuni kings (on page are warm, the nights are cool. Early autumn will Archeological Tours delicious with each telling, and I have yet to see 15) remind one of those in New England, forests in nary a one.) upper Shirak change colors and warm afternoons GIUMRI (separate PDF) • Visit the 4th c basilica at Yereruik, one fade into crisp cool nights. Winters are harsh and of he earliest samples of its kind (on The ancient history of Shirak is like that of its cold, wonderful for the cross-country skier or the NEAR GIUMRI (p. 7) page 19) cousin the Ararat Valley, steeped in legend to winter hiker, but otherwise a time when the Marmashen some, but found by archeologists to have been • Visit “Armenia’s Siberia” and the high region turns in on itself, cozying up to a warm inhabited 250,000 years ago, with settlements alpine villages around Arpi Lich, one of fire and long nights of imbibing and visits from EXPLORING THE REGION (p. 10) popping up along the Akhurian Valley beginning the migratory trails for Eurasia’s Birds friends and family. Spring is slow to come, TRIP 1: ARTIK (p. 10) around 9000 BCE. Agriculturally based, the (on page 21) erupting in April with wild flowers that blanket the TRIP 2: MARALIK : ANI (p. 17) region has few of the metallurgical centers found TRIP 3: AMASSIA (p. 24) hillsides and continue their march up the South, but still had sophisticated settlements • Visit Minas Avetisian’s home museum TRIP 4: ASHOTSK, GEORGIA (p. 27) mountains until the mid August, when the snows during the Bronze and Iron Ages. at Jajur, with its unique collection of begin to fall. TRIP 5: AKHURIAN, KARNUT (p. 31) expressionistic art (on page 23) RESOURCES (p. 33) The medieval history of the region is intertwined SHIRAK MAP (p. 35) with the fates of two ruling families, the • Pay your respects to Sisak, Misak and th ANI MAP (p. 39) Kamsarakans and the Bagratunis. Up to the 4 Apetnak at the 4000 BCE grave site in Tsoghamarg (on page 24)

HOW LONG? relies mainly on irrigation and springs to cultivate Warblers, Buntings, Eurasian Eagle-Owl, Alpine south. Officially “founded” 2,500 years ago, agriculture. Swift, swallows, Dunnock, Black Redstart, White- when Assyrians referred to the city by its first For the casual traveler, Shirak is an easy winged Redstart, Golden Eagle, Imperial Eagle, known name Akhurian, their history is actually overnight trip from Yerevan, letting you visit the The rock formations and scrub land vegetation Booted Eagle, Lammergeier, Eurasian Black much older; early settlements are over 5000 Monasteries & Bronze Age monuments at Artik that makeup the bulk of southern Shirak are Vulture, Eurasian Griffon. years old. and Maralik on the way up, a walking tour of the unique Eco-systems, filled with desert wildlife, old center and perhaps Marmashen and return to and the bulk of migrating steppe birds in the Woodland birds include the Sparrow hawk, PREHISTORIC AGE Yerevan via the Akhurian reservoir, Jrapi and Spring and fall. Northern Goshawk, Black Francolin, Eurasian Archeologists have found evidence of human Anipemza the next day. Add more days to fully Woodcock, European Turtle-Dove, Common activity in the Southern Caucasus as early as 1.7 explore the Old city and savor its culture (1-2 Flowers Cuckoo, Eurasian Scops-Owl, Tawny Owl, Wood million BCE with widespread settlement area days), Ani (1 day pre-arranged), the Alpine Northern Shirak flora include Iris lineolata, I. Lark, Red-throated Pipit, warblers, Thrush, Tits, going back to around 5000-250,000 BCE. region (1 day), the North to Georgia (1 day) and Caucasica, Merendera mirzoeval, Colchicum Buntings, Finch, Starlings, Eurasian Jay, Rook, Geological and paleontology evidence show that the area around Giumri (1 day). We explore Szoritsii, Gagea ssp., Puschkinia scilloides, Draba Long-eared Owl, Eurasian Wryneck, Flycatchers, the Armenian Highlands have been densely some day trips from Giumri below, which can be ssp., Lallemautia caneseeus, Ranunculus ssp., Warblers, Eurasian Tree-Creeper, inhabited from the time the arranged to suit your travel route. Myosotis alpestris, Pedicularis ssp., Trifolium ssp., Finches, Boreal Owl, etc. Tigris and Euphrates rivers

Gladiolus kotschyanus, Silene ssp. began flowing into the Persian Hitting the Highlights Giumri, Marmrashen, Mountain meadows to Alpine Gulf, during the interglacial eras. (1-2 days). North: Lernantsk Pass, Tsoghamarg, Lower Elevation sagebrush steppe flora include Caucasian Grouse, Grey Ghazanchi, Dzorashen, Border, Arpi Lich (1 day). includes Gladiolus atroviolaceus, Nigella Partridge, Common Quail, Likewise, inhabitants on the West Shirak Akhurian River, Gusanagiugh, Jrapi oxypetala, Actynolema macrolema, Gundelia Eurasian Skylark, Tree Pipit, upper plateaus and mountains of Haikadzor, Kharkov tournefort, Verbascum saccatum, Lallemanita Meadow Pipit, Water Pipit, modern-day Armenia are traced (Ani), Yereuik (1 iberica, Roemeria retracta, Scabiosa argentea, Whinchat, Radde's Accentor, Ring to the same time, as the day). South Scorronera paposa, Muscari beglecta, Stchys Ouzel, Mountain Chiffchaff, Corn volcanic domes of Aragats, Shirak: Maralik, inflata, Astragalus distyophysus, A. kochianus, Bunting, Ortolan Bunting, Black- Ararat began to cool, Atik, Sarnaghbiur, Achillea tenuifolia, Helichrysum rubicundum, headed Bunting, Crimson-winged contributing to a moist Harich, Lake Silena spergulifolia. Finch, White-Winged Snowfinch, environment. The rich lava soil Mantash (1 day) etc. and warmth from the cooling

River Gorge flora include Alkanna orientalis, domes combined to create a lush

Cerasus incana, Prus, salicifolia, Cerasus For a complete list pf all birds by environment we can only guess NATURE mahaleb, Amygdalus ferzlinia, Spirala crenata, species and habitat see at now, with forests of Shirak lies in stark Saxifraga cymbalaria. TourArmenia Birding pages coniferous and deciduous trees covering 70% of contrast to the rest (www.tacentral.com/nature/birding.asp) the land, supporting a wide variety of fauna, of the country, with Desert and semi-desert flora include (non perhaps the most interesting example being a its southern area Latin names) sagebrush, steppe grass, straw Thermal and Mineral Springs Tragonterian (Mammuthus trogontherii ) elephant lying in flowers, poppies and daisies. Shirak is blessed with several large natural found in Giumri during excavations. predominantly springs, including several mineral springs. All are semi-desert to For complete information and list of species see cold water springs, with natural carbonated sulfur Other finds include remnants of a prehistoric bull, desert mountain TourArmenia Flora pages springs lying near Ashotsk, Amassia and rhinoceros, horse, camel, deer and other animals steppe terrain, (www.tacentral.com/nature/flora.asp) Akhurian; carbonated sodium springs near Shirak found near Giumri in higher altitudes. They while the northern area rises over alpine and Aghin; naturally carbonated springs by belong to Pleistocene era. The teeming forests meadows called Armenia's "Siberia". From Birds Shirak’s variety of topography supports a Ashotsk, and Sodium Chloride springs close to and tall grasslands supported a huge variety of Amassia and Ashotsk, it suddenly erupts into wide variety of bird species, roughly divided Shirakavan. species. Add to this the rich mineral resources mountain forests at the Georgian border. The between the mountain steppes and high semi- left from the volcanic eruptions of Aragats, Ararat Region is bordered by Mt. Aragats on the desert plains of the west and southwest to the For a complete list of thermal and Mineral springs and surrounding mountain ranges, and the southeast, the Bazruma and Javakh Mountain rugged mountains and woodlands of the SE and see TourArmenia Springs pages conditions were ripe for human growth and ranges on the east, and Turkey to the west. The far north. River valleys, alpine country and (www.tacentral.com/nature/natural_story.asp?sto development at a very early age, with several Akhurian River begins in Shirak Region, runs just mountain meadow round out the areas where ry_no=4). strata of occupations uncovered leading the west of Giumri before forming the border good birding can be had. Arpi Lich is one of two agricultural revolution of the Copper and Bronze between Turkey and Armenia at Akhurik. spots where the Dalmatian Pelican and the Other Fauna The largest prairie dog population Age. Greater Flamingo has been sighted, a rare event. in Armenia is in Shirak, located west of Maralik. Half of the region lies on the Kars and Shirak Nutria, moles, jackals and wildcats are frequently Much of the region’ early development was due to Plateaus, a complex mountain steppe region that Shirak’s mountain plateaus and sweeping alpine seen in the region as well. crop production, made possible during the includes swamp and marshland, large tracts of country are habitats for the Greater Spotted agricultural revolution of the late stone age. semi-desert, mountain steppe and Eagle, Steppe Eagle, Northern Harrier, Buntings, HISTORY Around 15,000 years ago the first strands of mountain/alpine meadows with pockets of forests Eurasian Eagle-Owl, White Tailed Eagle, Cranes, domesticated wheat were propagated, along with The Shirak region has a long history, its evolution nestled inside mountain clefts. The Southern area Storks, Crakes, Flacons, Pheasants, Bustards, rice, grapes and fruit trees. Later domesticated roughly parallel to that of the Ararat Valley in the European Bee-eater, Rollers, Larks, Wigtails, animal husbandry further allowed the creation of

Shirak Marz: page 2 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide settlements and religious development. In Shirak, Factories, "Kazachi Post" and Kumaiyri berd The Greek historian and military leader Xenophon etc., are preserved at the Matenadaran in human settlement was on a wide scale, Giumri among other sites. (ca. 430-355) mentions the region in his book, Yerevan. In his work, Shirakatsi mentions the being one of the primary spots for settlements. “The Anabasis” as did the Greek historian principles of chronology of the Egyptians, Jews, The inhabitants had created a complex level of By the 4th millennium BCE, Shirak’s inhabitants Herodotus writing of Kumaiyri and the area in his Assyrians, Greeks, Romans and Ethiopians, he being, combining obsidian and stone tools with were noted in Gilgamesh, the Sumerian epic, as 4th c. History. Greek-era ruins include the speaks of the planetary motion and periodicity of figures and symbols related to an afterlife. The part of a people’s living in “the mountains of the Hellenistic settlement in Hoghmik. The region lunar and solar eclipses. rise of fire worship may have begun at this time, gods”, and by the 3rd millennium ancestral became part of the Armenian Satrapy on the perhaps related to the still smoldering volcanic Armenians in Shirak were a part of the Nairi collapse of the Achaemenid dynasty with the 900 years before Galileo, Shirakatsi accepted the peaks nearby. Federation noted by Assyrians in cuneiform and invasion of Alexander the Great, though it roundness of the Earth, and expresses the part the second wave of Indo-European migration remained highly autonomous during the Seleucid opinion that the Sun illuminates both spheres of from Western Asia into Europe and East Asia. period. Some think Shirak was mentioned in the the Earth at different times and when it is night By 5,000 BCE, Shirak, parallel to the Ararat The kings of area of present day Shirak were Anabasis, the epic journey by Xenophon and the on one half, it is day on the other. He considers Valley in the south, developed larger settlements, called the kings of Etwikhi (Etwini). “ten thousand” who marched through Armenia en the Milky Way 'a mass of densely distributed and based on agriculture, trade and, by the 3rd route to the Black Sea in 401 BCE. faintly luminous stars'. Shirakatsi agrees with millennium, bronze. Prehistoric excavations in Shirak region include those scientists, who believed that 'the moon has sites in Giumri (Kumaiyri), the Not much is mentioned in no natural light and reflects the light of the Sun'. COPPER AND BRONZE AGES catacomb tombs from the 14th- historical chronicles of the city He explains the solar eclipse as the result of the When you stand in Armenia, you are standing in 9th c. BCE near Artik. during the Roman and Parthian Moon's position between the Sun and the Earth. the birthplace of metal. The ores required to periods, the city acting as a Shirakatsi gives interesting explanation to the produce copper, bronze and iron were abundant Others are at Shirakavan, regional administrative center, rain, snow, hail, thunder, wind, earthquake and here, fuel to operate kilns and the water to grow Yerazgavors, Yereruik, while resources were poured into other natural phenomena. the abundant crops and animal resources Hoghmik, Horom, Yeniyol, Mets the capitals Artashat and necessary to support large settlements. The Sepasar, Pokr Sepasar, Karnut, Vagharshapat (Echmiadzin) to the The Arab Invasion ended the first era for cultural inhabitants were among the first known to forge Mets Keti, Pokr Keti, Darband south. Another site is in the flowering to the Christina Kingdom, followed by copper and bronze; and are the first recorded to (Karmrakar), Hatsik, Beniamin northeastern section of the city, intermittent periods of brilliance shadowed by successfully smelt iron. The first recorded 1, Beniamin 2, Tirashen, on a hill in the area known as invasions by Arab, Seljuk, Mongol and Persian astronomers, they were the earliest to create a Marmashen, Vahramaberd, Vardbagh, where excavations armies. calendar that divided the year into 12 segments Haikavan and Harich. have revealed a Roman-era of time, among the first to devise the compass, cemetery lying over a Bronze Age In 851, the Arabs adopted more conciliatory and to envision the shape of the world as round. URARTIAN, GREEK & settlement. Other policies towards Armenians, leading to the ROMAN ERAS Roman/Parthian sites are Yereruik, appointment of Ashot Bagratuni (the Fast forward to the 3rd Beniamin 1, Harich, Shirakavan, Carnivorous) in 861, as Prince over Armenia, millennium BCE and the Nairi, a loose federation Yerazgavors, Hoghmik beginning a long period of eminence for his family of tribes in a land noted in early Assyrian & Darband. (The Bagratuni or Bagratid Dynasty). Early chronicles extending through contemporary students of the PR machine, the Bagratunis Shirak, later conquered in the 8th c BCE by EARLY CHRISTIAN claimed to be the descendants of David and Kingdom of Urartu, becoming an outpost of the ERA – MIDDLE AGES Bathsheba and to be cousins to the Virgin Mary. Urartian Empire. To some it was the first mention of the city of Giumri, then called Grigor Lusavorich is They enlarged their lands to include Shirak and Kumaiyri. recorded to have Arsharunik, but Kumaiyri remained a backwater established churches in town as focus went into developing other cities; Urartu was a remarkably developed culture that area on the ruins of Tbilisi in the North and above all the new had extensive contacts with the major empires of pagan temples he had Bagratuni capital, Ani, just to the south. Like the Ancient world stretching between the torn down and the area Kumaiyri, Ani was An Urartian stronghold, but, Mediterranean and India, and rivaled them for grew along with the during the Bagratuni dynasty, it became the most trade, military and cultural hegemony. During country during the sophisticated city in the Near East, growing to a the Urartian period the region was called early Christian period, population of almost 100,000, larger than any Yeriakhi, or Yeriaini, also Kuliaini. Another its most famous son of city in Europe. Religious life flourished and Ani Early Bronze Age settlements based on the cuneiform lies near Spandarian. the age being the became known as the "city of one thousand and production of metal include Mt. Arteni, plus mathematician and one churches”. numerous settlements along the Akhurian river Urartian settlements in Shirak include Kumaiyri astronomer Anania valley, including Giumri, Keti and Karnut. Bronze and Durubaini, and Irdaniuni. The fall of Urartu Shirakatsi (615). Armenian culture developed to a new level of jewelry and plates, metal earrings and knives, is in part traced to invading Cimmerians (also artistry in church and monastery construction and tools and weapons, stone processing centers, called Skythians) from the north, which entered Shirakatsi’s 'Cosmography', 'On the signs of the the veneration of the Madonna increased in pottery, ornamental clay plates and glass from through Shirak en route to Anatolia. The name Zodiac', 'On the clouds and atmospheric signs', ' church iconography. Throughout the entire each of the Bronze and Iron Age periods were Kumaiyri may be linked with the same invaders. On the movement of the Sun', 'On the country churches and monasteries were built to found in the area of Meat-Packing and Chicken meteorological phenomena', 'On the Milky Way', ever-greater heights and grandeur, Shirak’s

Shirak Marz: page 3 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide monasteries at Marmashen, Artik, Harich and rich and educated class of citizens, a new Golden repelled Red invasions in the North and counter- Pemzashen prime examples. Khachkar art was Age. attacked, entering Georgia, and moving as far as This begins the also renewed, with more elaborate and realistic the edge of Tbilisi. A truce was declared on New saddest period of depictions of the crucifixion above the central At the end of 19th century Alexandropol was Year's Eve, 1919, and the Armenian Army Shirak’s history, cross, and with masterpieces created throughout equal in importance to Tbilisi and Baku, and a key withdrew. as refusal to admit the country, including the field of Khachkars at to the defense of the western frontier and to the depth of the Ghazanchi. Russia’s plans to enlarge its empire into Anatolia. The following year the Red Army succeeded in problem by both Repeatedly foiled by the European Great Powers entering Armenia at the same time Armenian Western donors Giumri’s later obsession with the city may have who feared Russian control over the Middle East, Communists forced an end to the republic in and Soviet Union begun during this period. Giumri was later to Russia won war after war against the Turks, only 1920. Alexander Miasnikian declared Armenia first blocked, then emulate the great capital to the south, continually to have its land gains taken back under pressure part of the Transcaucasian Soviet Federated hampered aid, as comparing itself to Ani and trying to recreate the of Britain and France (who wanted to keep Socialist Republic on November 29, 1920 with its poor planning and lost architecture of the great Bagratuni city Turkey under their control). These wars began capital Yerevan. Alexandropol was renamed continued downriver. from Alexandrapol and Shirak, who benefited Leninakan following the death of Lenin in 1924. corruption from the influx of defense monies as well as the continued with the The glory was short-lived. Ani was taken over by possession of historic Armenian lands. THE SOVIET PERIOD rebuilding of the Byzantium in 1044 to act as a buffer zone, then If the regions growth in the 19th c was city. in 1064, under Sultan Alp Arslan, the Turks As WWI began, the Russians quickly took the impressive, that of the Soviet period was swarmed over Ani after a 25-day siege and initiative and, spreading out from Shirak, took extraordinary, both the population and heavy At first refusing to massacred everyone in sight. The city began a most of historic Shirak in Western Armenia from industrialization increased 8-fold within the next admit to the slow decline for which it never recovered. In the retreating Turkish army before bogging down forty years. outside world that 1071 the Kingdom of Armenia ended, and, after a in battle. The Turks took advantage of the anything had short deflowering during the Trebizond Empire, situation to begin one of the worst periods of its Textile and Industrial complexes were developed happened, the finally succumbed in 1239 when Tatars of history, the Armenian Genocide, ending in the in Leninakan, Maralik, Artik, and in several Soviet Genghis Khan conquered and destroyed the city. mass murder of half of the total Armenian villages, which were forced into collective farms, government then refused Western offers of help, Kumaiyri suffered the same fate. population. escaping the mass starvation of the Ukraine and saying that the city was a Military secret that had Russia in the 1920’s. to be guarded at all costs. Constant bungling by Beginning in the 15th century, Armenia suffered GENOCIDE AND THE FIRST REPUBLIC the Soviet authorities to help survivors and bring through more invasions, resulting in the division The region was host to thousands of refugees The region faced the same sacrifices as all of in aid led to bitter criticism of the central of the kingdom between Ottoman Turks and the who escaped Turkish and Kurdish armed forces Armenia during the Second World War. With a government. The Soviets finally made an appeal Persians in the 16th c. Base survival was the only by crossing into Russian Armenia, aided by population of 2 million, Armenia contributed for aid, and for the first time in decades the achievement that Russian troops who drove back the Turks and 650,000 soldiers, 315,000 of which died during Soviet borders were opened to caravans of could be noted for Kurds to allow refuges to pass through to safety the 6-year conflict. Some say 30% of the male medicine, construction material and aid workers the following 200 in the region. Locals still retell the harrowing population died in the region. from the West. This act is arguably the first years, for Shirak escapes and tragedies of their grandparents and breach in the Soviet Walls and the beginning of and Kumaiyri. parents during the genocide, and how the An industrial boom began after the war, creating its end. Russians saved them. jobs for 50,000 people in Leninakan alone. Huge RUSSIAN EMPIRE textile and heavy industry factories were built, as Diaspora Armenians, who began much of the The most The Russian army drove deeper into historic were the wretched “Khrushev” buildings that initial response and seemed the most helpful, remarkable period Armenia until it faced its own implosion with the populate the region. The boom was followed by a became the least reliable providers of assistance of development collapse of the Eastern Front and the Russian decades long period of stagnation and corruption, over time, continually waiting for the local was during the 19th Revolution. After the fall of the Tsar, Russian creating a cynicism that still plagues the country. government and international aid agencies to c. when Shirak troops left Armenia in 1918, leaving the country Corruption allowed substandard construction of bear the burden of rebuilding the new city. became a part of vulnerable to Turkish attack. Vowing to demolish the massive housing projects in the region to the Russia Empire, the Armenian people, The Young Turks began an escape zoning regulations, contributing to the SHIRAK NOW and Kumaiyri its invasion of Armenia to the north, and Giumri ,its’ huge death toll in the 1988 earthquake. The recovery from the Earthquake has been in regional center. only defensive spot, helplessly surrendered on fits and starts, the city of Giumri only replacing The area was May 15, 1918. Shirak rallied after the Armenian EARTHQUAKE AND SECOND REPUBLIC its vast tracts of domiks (temporary metal absorbed into the rout of the Turks at Sardarapat on May 28 of the On December 7 of that year Armenia was rocked storage containers that were meant to house Empire in 1804, same year, defeating the Turkish troops and by severe earthquakes (the epicenter was near victims of the earthquake for a few months) in during the first helping to establishing the first Armenian Spitak) that killed more than 25,000 of people in 2004, when the Norwegian Refugee Center Russo-Persian war. Republic. a 100 kilometer band across the North of the shamed the Armenian government and Western The Russian period initiated a period of Republic, including Leninakan. It is estimated Armenians into rebuilding the city by taking tremendous growth and development for the The republic was short-lived, besieged by that up to 15,000 people died in the first tremor, matters into its own hands to build housing. area, propelled by the new regional capital. A continued Turkish aggression and the Red Army. as poorly constructed concrete buildings collapsed heretofore-feudal society was pushed into the Valiant attempts at survival included those of on families, factories and schools. The final The city still has vast tracts of damaged buildings industrial revolution, creating an extraordinarily Giumri native D'rastamat Kanaian ("D'ro") who death toll came in at over 24,000. and hulking reminders of the tragedy, but 90% of

Shirak Marz: page 4 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide the dislocated population has been relocated into happen to coincide with the day trips we have family homes. Bottled water is generally not NATURE TOURING new housing, the remainder either refusing to devised for exploring the region. The northern available outside of larger towns. Natural areas include the entire eastern edge move from their metal homes (addicted, some route travels 73 km to the Georgian border and area of the marz, lined by a ridge of mountains say, to perpetual handouts by international aid the Armenian enclaves of Akhalkalaki and DESTINATIONS from Mt. Ketchut down to the face of Aragats agencies) or falling through the bureaucratic Akhaltsikhe (A306 / M1), passing Ashotsk and the Shirak has many destinations worth visiting, so itself. This is high alpine, mountain steppe and cracks. Northeastern turn off on the way. The many you will find it hard to choose, especially if meadow and rugged cliff country. The north west Northeastern route travels 74 km from Giumri you are on affixed timetable. is alpine meadowland, the southwest semi- In the region it is much different, as to Tashir (A304 / H31), then N another 15 km to desert, marshland and rough terrain. All around dispossessed, many of whom who never received the Georgian border at Gogavan, or S 18 km to Picturesque villages and locales include the monasteries of Harich, Lmbatavank and any form of housing support struggle along as Stepanavan (A328 / M3). The western route Sarnaghpiur, the villages around Arpi Lich, Horomos are wild river gorges, mountain steppe best they can. Following the earthquake was a travels about 12 km to the Turkish border at Dzorashen, Karnut, Musaiyelian and Jrarat and rocky terrain. second tremor, the collapse of the economy, Akhurik (M7) and the rail gate to Kars, Turkey when the ruble was devalued in one night, and Europe. The border was closed by Turkey in Natural areas include Arpi Lich and the Hiking and Mountain trekking is spectacular eliminating the entire population’s savings and 1991, if it ever opens, it will be Giumri’s best surrounding Alpine region, the mountains roads throughout the marz, along the Akhurian river as forcing 80% into poverty. chance for rapid economic expansion. The east of Ashotsk, the area around Dzorashen and it etches its way through the mountain plateau of Eastern route travels 42 km to Spitak then the western face of Aragats (Mantash Reservoir). the northwest, or up the mountain slopes of the Constant reminders abound of this hated period, another 20 km to Vanadzor, in Lori Marz (A330 / SE and E of the region are particularly pretty and both by damaged or destroyed buildings M7). The Southwestern route travels 40 km to Prehistoric / Urartian excavations in Shirak challenging, especially the mountains. Some of throughout the region, and by the extreme Kharkov and the border at Ani, then another 69 Region include those at Shirakavan, Yerazgavors, the most deserted area is on the lower slopes of poverty of the villagers. Shirak is Armenia’s km to Echmiadzin and another 20 to Yerevan Yereruik, Hoghmik, Horom, Yeniyol, Mets Mt. Aragats (Lanjasar, Zohasar) and Mantash. poorest region, and most able bodied persons (A326 / H17). The most likely route you will take Sepasar, Pokr Sepasar, Karnut, Mets Keti, Pokr The far NE (Mts. Achkasar, Parakh, Ashotskar and have left the marz, in search of better life from Yerevan is the M1 Southeastern Route Keti, Darband (Karmrakar), Hatsik, Beniamin 1, Sevasar) and around Arpi Lich are wild areas, in elsewhere. They work in Russia, Yerevan or in through Shirak Marz, 126 km from Yerevan to Beniamin 2, Tirashen, Marmashen, Vahramaberd, NE you may never meet a soul save the the West, and send remittances home to the Giumri (104 from Ashtarak), skirting Mt. Aragats Haikavan and Harich. In Giumri, prehistoric occasional shepherd and your own heartbeat. relatives they left behind. Some estimate Shirak and entering Shirak Marz just after Mastara, excavations include the South Tower (Black Follow the Akhurian river from Giumri NW and receives $1 billion in remittances annually. passing Artik, Maralik, and Horom along the way. Fortress), Cherkezi Dzor, grounds of poultry you follow trails used over millennium, from the

farm, Vardbagh & Turbaza. Bronze Age and Urartian fortresses and outpost With this money the local economy has begun to Public Transport includes intercity buses and to Marmashen and monastic paths trod on a revive, and –corrupt local officials aside—the minivans (Mashrutni Taxis) that travel from Roman / Parthian excavations include thousands of times when this was “super region is beginning to attract investment and village to village and village to town. Cars with Yereruik, Beniamin 1, Harich, Shirakavan, highway” for the region. Around Artik are a growth, though it is mostly restricted to Giumri drivers can be rented in Yerevan and Giumri, call Yerazgavors, Hoghmik, Darband and Vardbagh. number of interesting hikes, visiting monasteries, and its near environs. Still, somehow, with a and street taxis can be found in Giumri, most villages and mountain canyons at every turn. determination and grit the “Shiraketsis” are willing to drive into the region. Figure 100 AMD Medieval monasteries, churches, Khachkars famous for, there are glimmers of hope in the per kilometer plus something extra for stops & ruins will be found at Marmashen, Maralik, For most hikes or climbs, an experienced people, and a return of their famous sarcastic (negotiate). If you stop for food, treat the driver Pemzashen, Artik, Harich, Kharkov (Ani), Ani mountain guide is required, for safe travel and to humor and quick wit, as more and more rebuild as well. Bazmankiun (6/3 Khaghaghutian Oghak, Pemza and Ghazanchi. navigate the local populations. They also know their lives and contribute the economic revival of tel. 2-22-19, 3-72-01) can arrange transport and which areas are off-limits (some sections are the region. guide, as can the folks at Shirak Tours, (25 restricted military areas, and not marked) as well Haghtanaki p. tel: 2-31-48, 3-75-59) as the secret cubby holes and gorges with rare The area, blessed by stunning landscapes and delights. extraordinary historic sites, is also blessed by By Rail See Giumri chapter, In and Out. some the warmest, friendliest people you may Caving For avid spelunkers, the most spectacular meet in Armenia, and some of its funniest. OVERNIGHT/EAT images in Armenia are underground, and with

Giumri has several good hotels and lodgings, plus more than 10,000 caves throughout the country, NOTE: For additional information, see the Shirak a growing number of B&Bs. Outside of Giumri, Armenia aims to please to subterranean Regional Museum Web Site: lodging is not standardized, but you will never be explorer. Caves are located in every region of www.shirakmuseum.am/ The museum is closed, left out in the cold in any village, nor in most the country, but the more interesting line river the director is a bit ‘interesting’, but the towns. The overnight will be in a family home, gorges. information and pictures are interesting. the amenities may be sparse, but the hospitality

will be warm and inviting. You will have to insist Caving in Shirak will be found near Marmashen, IN AND OUT to pay in many cases, villagers especially taking Kakavasar, Harich, Mets Mantash, Bavra and in By Air For Air Service information, see Giumri offense at the idea of selling their hospitality. caves along the Akhurian, Karnut and Chlkan section. 5000 AMD for bed and breakfast is reasonable. rivers. For more information see TourArmenia Eating out in the region is limited to roadside Caving page By Road There are seven main routes into and stands, a few cafes in Artik and Maralik and (www.tacentral.com/nature/natural_story.asp?sto out of Shirak, all spiraling out of Giumri, which ry_no=3)

Shirak Marz: page 5 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide One of the most experience mountain climbers in Flower Watching Meadow flowers begin their Armenia is Andrey Chesnokov, (tel. 010 57 67 Oxalis Tours, (tel. UK (+44 20) 78 70 80 37, spectacular display in May, blooming up the 57), 10 Vardanants St., Apt. #49, Yerevan, USA (+1 201) 984 1420; Fax: (+44 20) 76 81 mountains as the weather gradually warms until Armenia 375010, email: [email protected], who has 31 31) 68 Landseer Road, London N19 4JP UK, they begin to retreat with the first snows of climbed most of the mountains in Armenia and is URL: www.oxalis- August. June and July have the mildest weather a recommend, reliable guide. adventures.com/armenia/index.php provides in the region, plus some of the most spectacular trekking, climbing and botanical tours to flower shows, esp. in upper elevations and Armenia Green Cross Ecological NGO ("AGCE"), Armenia, specializing in combining off-the-beaten around Arpi Lich. Best places to look are on the 14-10 Batumi, Vanadzor (tel. 0 322 24066, fax. paths with primary sites. They hire expert guides everywhere in April and May, then Arpi Lich, 58449, mob. 093 32 32 84) is a local NGO that from in and out of the country and provide full Jrarat, Mantash, Sarnaghpiur, and roads leading provides eco-tours as part of its mission to tour services. Worth looking into, well east to Lori and north to Georgia. preserve and enlarge ecologically vital areas of organized. the country. Eco-tours are expert-led hiking, Birding Spring (April-May) and Autumn climbing and camping tours, including hiking and Flower Tours (September-October) are the best times to climbing equipment, tents, sleeping-bags, Professor Nora Gabriellian is Armenia’s observe migrating birds, while summer is ideal emergency and first aid facilities and the services preeminent expert on flowers in Armenia, for mountain steppe, meadow and slope species of their professional rescue group (EU personally discovering several new species of that call the region home. Akhurian reservoir certification). endemic flowers, the latest in 2006. She is the has marshland with water loving birds. There are author of the upcoming Field Guide to Armenian some woodland species in the far north, near Avarayr Adventure Tours, (tel. 010 56 36 81, 52 Flowers, the culmination of 50+ years work in the Georgia. Best places are the most difficult to 40 42, Fax: 010 56 36 81), 1 Pavstos Biusand p., field. This seventy-something still out-hikes the reach: mountain crags and high plateaus, Yerevan, E-mail: [email protected], URL: fittest members of her tours and combines expert recesses of river canyons and feeder streams, as www.avarayr.am/ has been arranging cultural data with humor, enthusiasm and great good will. deep in the forest as your jeep (or legs) will carry and adventure tours to Armenia for more than 12 She is not easy to book (she continues to do her you. The mountains east of Giumri, the years, one of the first to provide fully equipped research and is not for the casual tourist), but if Akhurian reservoir, towards Mantash and SE of hiking, climbing and adventure tours. Tours you can arrange for her to take you on a 1 to 8 Artik and woodlands north of Bavra along the include expert guides, cooks and support staff for day flower tour, you will never see Armenia the Georgian frontier are good areas to watch. all tours. Tours run the gamut from hiking and same way again. She doesn’t have a travel climbing in the wilderness to cultural visits for the agency but contact her through Rafi at (tel: 010 Nature-Adventure Tour Operators more comfort-minded. Their best seem to be 53-24-55) who can check her schedule and make Ashot Levonian (tel. 010 57 03 28, mob. 091 49 tours that combine both aspects. A good, solid arrangements. 58 34), e-mail: [email protected] is an expert company. hiking/climbing/camping guide, his team Archeological Tours The Eco-Tour Center (tel. 010 27 87 28 / 27 40 arranges hiking, mountain climbing, caving, MassTour (tel./fax. 010 27 78 32), 8 Komitas, 12), 2 H Hakobian St. apt. 22, 375033 Yerevan, geology tours, churches and fortresses. They will Yerevan, e-mail: [email protected], URL: Armenia, email: [email protected], arrange hotels in Yerevan, airport pickup, www.masstours.com, specialize in archeological www.ecotourismarmenia.com, arranges nature transport, sight-seeing, etc. Group support tours and participation in archeological digs tours, climbs and camping, as well as birding., includes guide, translator, cooker, rescue doctor supervised by working archeologists include the flower watching and other nature tours. Contact and driver. Standard tour is a two-week hiking Urartian fortress Erebuni (Arin Berd) forerunner Zhanna. trip averaging 5-10 km walking a day: Yerevan - of present day Yerevan, the Bronze Age temple-

Mt. Aragats - Alaverdi - Ijevan - Dilijan - Sevan - city of Agarak, Bronze -Iron Age tomb field of Hike & Go, (tel. France (+33 6) 88 34 04 11, Martuni - Yeghegnadzor - Kapan - Meghri - Aghavnatun, Paleolithic caves in the Kasakh River local cell: 091 20 41 38), email: Jermuk - Yerevan. Canyon near the village of Apnagiugh, guided [email protected] an adventure travel group visits to the petroglyphs in the Geghama The Armenian Mountain rescue teams "Spitak" operating out of Armenia and France (English mountain range. They also run basic tour spoken) is an interesting group that features (tel: 010 35 00 06), 50 Halabian p., Yerevan, packages with expert guides. Excavation tours of Armenia combining traditional touring email: [email protected], packages begin from $750/week for full service with hiking into Armenia’s wilderness and off- moon.yerphi.am/~spitak/adventure.htm, land-expeditions. stationed in both Yerevan and Stepanavan, can the–beaten-path monuments, some of which can organize hiking, rock climbing and mountain only be reached by hiking. See web site (www.hikeandgo.com/) expeditions. Guides are experienced rescuers- GIUMRI (Gyumri) rock climbers, and they can also arrange horse AdvenTour Travel (tel. 010 53 96 09, cell.: 091 See Giumri PDF for details. riding along picturesque routes, by a horse cave and "Ancient Armenian horse games." 42 67 45), Email: [email protected], URL: www.armeniaexplorer.com, 39 Pushkin p., Yerevan, Armenia, 375002, arranges adventure, birding, botanical and historic tours.

Shirak Marz: page 6 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide Valley, being one of the most favored, nurtured church entrances NEAR GIUMRI by the Pahlavunis, especially the Ishkhan (prince) are. This is normal Vahan (967-1045), Sparapet (Commander-in- for all religious NOTE: Shirak is relatively easy to navigate, chief) of the Armenian army and source of monuments going Bagratuni power. In 1041, he defeated the back to Pagan making several points on our Day Trips within MAP LEGEND Byzantine troops at Ani, four years before it fell times, but the easy reach from Giumri. Marmashen is the 1. S. Stepanos closest (and is also included in Day Trip 3), but to them and then shortly thereafter, to the 2. Gavit altars were shifted others that can be reached within 30 minutes Seljuks. His military talent and heroic deeds were 3. Astvatsatsin to the East, to the from Giumri are Beniamin (on page 10), sung in Armenian literature and popular songs. 4. S. Petros rising sun. The 5. Circular church Maiyissian (on page 27), Lernantsk Pass (on page Part of a new rebirth, a "Silver Age" in Armenia, complex is also 27) and in just 30 minutes, the incredible Matur monasteries and churches proliferated throughout orientated towards for four 4000-1000 BCE sarcophagi in the small the country, one of the more beautiful being the Akhurian chapel at Tsoghamarg (on page 28). Marmashen. River, which lies to the west. Inside ² MARMASHEN (Vahramaberd) Ø³ñÙ³ß»Ý Commerce attained a volume hitherto unknown. the compound /ì³Ññ³Ù³μ»ñ¹/ Nakhitchevan, Ardzen, Baghesh (Bitlis) and many you will find a other cities became important centers in which number of fruit

products of Persia, Arabia, India and even of trees, beautiful in NOTE: Also part of Day Trip 3 (on page 24) China were exchanged for the merchandise of the springtime,

West. Profiting by the era of tranquility, Gagik dripping with The Monastery of Marmashen is 9 km northwest centered his attention on commerce. Armenia white flowers. An of Giumri, ironically not in the village of the same became an intermediary between the Orient and effort to replant name. Instead, take Amassia highway (full of Mediterranean countries, and was rewarded with trees all around pot holes--be brave) north of town for 5 km, then an amazing increase of wealth. the monastery has past the village of Marmashen to the end of the begun, but next village Vahramaberd and turn left at a black Specifically the buildings you see now at villagers see no metal sign with the image of a church on it. The Marmashen were part of a fortress area erected practical use to road winds down the cliff-side into the Akhurian by Vahram Pahlavuni from 988-1029. Standing the native valley, the complex soon appears on a switch in the complex, one can imagine the pastoral Armenian trees back by a new fish pond. beauty and enormous wealth that poured into that once made a

this monastery, a center of learning, manuscript forest here, History: The history of Marmashen is paralleled production, prayer and contemplation. spending their to that of the Bagratunis (a.k.a. Bagratunis), attention on the rulers of scattered areas of the old kingdom and a When the Bagratunis lost their power, the grove of fruit junior branch of the family, the Pahlavunis, monastery fell to the same fate as others in trees, which gives progenitors to 100 years of Armenian Katoghikos Shirak. Ani fell to successive invasions and the them income. and rivals to the Bagratunis for control of the far monastery was pillaged by Seljuks (who ruined Additional invasions by Seljuks, Kurdish warlords, Such be the status of ecology in Vahramaberd. flung kingdom. Add to this the constant pressure the complex) and was restored in 1225 by the Mongols, Timor the Lame and finally the of Arab plots and Armenian Nakharar in-fighting grandsons of Vahram Pahlavuni, Grigor Ottomans reduced the monastery to a parish S. Stepanos Church and you would have a great pot-boiler, only the archbishop and his brother Gharib. church with earthquakes, ever-shifting powers The main (Katoghike) church, S. Stepanos is struggles were real and the stakes were life and and neglect damaging the outer buildings and covered with inscriptions on both the north and death. walls. Its status was partially restored only when south walls. On the south wall the inscriptions

the Persians took eastern Armenia for their own, include a note that the church was built between The Bagratunis took advantage of the power and as Soviet Armenia began the current 988 and 1029 for the Sparapet Vahram vacuum in the 9th-12th centuries, and created restoration efforts. Much is in disrepair, but what Pahlavuni. the second kingdom of Armenia, based in Ani. is left is still awe inspiring, a magnificent The period of Marmashen's sudden expansion reminder the glory of its time preserved for all to The stone work for the church is made from red from an early Christian chapel built on earlier see. tufa, some of the stones looking like they may pagan shrines is traced to the reign of Gagik I, have come from earlier, cyclopean walls. The who succeeded his brother Smbat II on the The Complex: The monastery has four dome is centrally positioned over the hall, making throne of Armenia proper. Under the rule of this churches, two rebuilt and two in ruins. One is the rather large church seem compact and king, the Bagratuni (Bagratid) dynasty of Ani circular, a miniature of the open cross form powerful. Walls have double niches, possibly attained the zenith of its power. The construction (circular) most famous at Zvartnots. The intended for statues, though the iconoclastic era of the great Ani cathedral was completed, and the complex was originally part of a fortress, the was in full swing. country was generously provided with new massive stones used for the fortress walls long churches, chapels, monasteries and schools, since taken away and used for other purposes. Marmashen, on the fertile plain of the Akhurian The Vank was oriented to the West, where both

Shirak Marz: page 7 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide The church is a classic example of religious Vahram Pahlavuni, whose tombstone is in the buildings, a medieval cemetery to the east and architecture of the time: other than a few early northern end, a 19th c recreation (near the south, and a ruined chapel on the northern hill, exceptions, the dome or cupola was elevated entranceway to the ruined chapel). the small Karmrashen or Verin (upper) Vank. above the other vaulted ceilings by a cylindrical drum (usually polygonal on the outside). The The smaller church to the south of the main prevalence of the dome forced architects to think structure is the 11th c. Astvatsatsin Church, in terms of centrally planned buildings, which this an equally beautiful building made from polished is an example. The domed hall has two pairs of red tufa. The church is of the central dome gall arches beginning from wall piers composed into type, with a rectangular exterior and a cruciform bunches of columns. In comparison with similar interior with chambers in the four corners. The churches of 7th c. the eastern cross-wing is chambers were used as depositories for treasure shortened, bringing the altar and its two adjacent and manuscripts. chambers (used as depositories for treasure and manuscripts) closer to the central space under A more beautiful S. Petros, lies in ruins butting the dome. The eastern apse, like that at Ani up to the north of the main church. Probably built cathedral, is decorated with wall niches. As a at the same time as the Katoghike, all that result the dome plays a central position in the remain are the north and east walls, showing it to exterior composition. This was a major transition have been a smaller copy of Katoghike with the for Armenian church construction. Partially damaged during the 1988 earthquake, same composition (central domed hall) and

the church has been saved and preserved by the architectural details and decoration. The intricate The exterior façade is decorated by two semi- efforts of a Professor Pant who led a team of details on the walls and columns show a great columns with high rising row of arches on them. engineers to shore of the walls by tightening the respect for craftsmanship and design. The central arch, wider than the others, includes four points of the church with massive metal a window with a wide outline and decorative plates with intersecting rods. The plates can be framing. The facades are built with triangular seen at the upper corners of the outside walls. niches creating a deep chiaroscuro effect (that’s NEAR MARMASHEN “the use of light and dark to create the illusion of depth” to all you non-art majors). The 12-sided Across the river (10th-11th cc bridge) is an drum, crowned by a slope roof, is decorated with abandoned medieval village and Bronze Age bunches of semi-columns like the inside wall graves. piers, connected by small frontons (face sculptures).

In 1954-1956 archeologists uncovered remnants of a fourth, nearly circular church. It has a circular exterior with four apses and four small The 13th century gavit, in front of the main depositories inside (similar to the 11th c. St.

doors, now ruined, was used as a manuscript Sarkis in Khtskonk). It is also similar to the Argishti Cuneiform If you exit into the village of workshop, seminary and community center, its much larger, magnificent circular church at Marmashen and go to the back (NW end) of the floors paved with graves of the famous and pious. Zvartnots. The circular design became popular in th village, there is a rutted road between some The roofs were composite in their appearance; It was almost square with four support columns the 7 century, this structure maybe dating to cattle sheds and the upper river valley. Follow they had to cover the vaults and domes of a and interlocking archways set into wall piers to the same period but more likely to the 11th-13th that and look for some black rock outcroppings complex, though symmetric, group of inner support the roofing and the central dome. Its cc. What remains of the church are the on the right, about 35 meters NW of the power spaces. Like the inner and outer walls and the composition was typical for the time. What foundation and two rows of walls. lines. Climb down into the rocks, among them is drum, they too were made of tufa thinly cut into remains are the lower walls and some charred a Cuneiform inscription by the Urartu King uniform shingles. The Katoghike is one of the remains from a fire that destroyed the building. Throughout the area you can also detect Argishti I (ca. 786-784 BCE) laying claim to the best examples of the Bagratuni Armenia period. The gavit was also used as a memorial for foundations of a pagan temple and other

Shirak Marz: page 8 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide Akhurian valley and the north of Armenia. The inscription reads: Tirashen: Head back to Marmashen Village and go to the opposite end of the village, to another "By the Glory of Khaldi, the god Argishti says: first road that runs along the river cliffs, towards I invaded the land of the Yeriakhi tribe, Giumri. Stick to the edge of the cliff and in about invaded Irdaniuni city up to Ishkikulu land". 1 kilometer the dirt road butts up against the cliff and another steep road switchbacks down to the 1. Hal-di-ni-ni al-su-u-shi-i-ni river valley, where a reservoir with a wild 2. Ar-gi-ish-ti-she a-li-e marsh and an islet lay. 3. ha-u-bi E-ri-a-hi KUR-ni 4. na-u-bi Ir-da-ni-u-ni The lake is idyllic, a perfect spot for a picnic. Just 5. pa-ri Is-qi-gu-lu-u below the cliff you can see the remains of Tirashen medieval village - îÇñ³ß»Ý It further refers to the people of Kuliaini, the ÙÇçÝ³¹³ñÛ³Ý ·ÛáõÕ built to support the a city’s first name. During the Urartian period the ruined 11th c church and surrounding buildings. region was called Yeriakhi, or Yeriaini, also The Village would have been well hidden from Kuliaini (believed corrupted over time to one side of the river gorge, it’s a hefty hike down “Kumaiyri”). to the ruins. To the North of the compound you will find dozens of wonderfully carved 11th c Nearby, a little more down the hill towards the khachkars in the huge boulders that cover the river, is a large ancient cemetery, within sight hills. The khachkars run the gamut from tiny of Marmashen Vank, but still a good 1 or 2 km little markings on knee-high stones to huge away. The graves run chock-a-block up the hills, elaborate crosses carved into gigantic boulders. graves date back to pre-Christian period, but Some have fallen, earthquakes having taken their th most of what you see are 10-11 c. Nearby are toll. Wander through the boulders to spot the the ruins of a Medieval church, stones from various types and designs. Most are believed to ruined capitals have pentagonal or star date from the 10th- 12th cc, when the church and engravings, another a checkerboard made by a village were in their heyday. dyslexic artist or a parallelogram pointing to the horizon. Another Urartian / Bronze Age cyclopean city Just above the medieval Village and about 500 On a nearby hill is a fort from the Bronze to meters S, just by some dumping grounds for Urartu epochs. The fort was built using huge earthquake rubble. boulders weighting 1-2 tons each, somehow carried up to this windswept spot, and on top Â END OF NEAR GIUMRI TRIP there are a number of impressions in the stone base. These are eerily identical to those found at the astronomical observatory at Metsamor near ² ² ² ² ² Echmiadzin, perhaps proof that the inhabitants were also early astronomers.

EXPLORING THE REGION Overnight in home is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Springs in the area. These trips can be done in a single day by car, depending on how many sites you visit and how long you take at each site. All originate from Â Just down the Yerevan Highway (2-3 km) lies Giumri, though you can change the order as you the BENIAMIN. Go to the bus stop and take the wish. UPPER CASE destinations are worth a dirt road opposite (right or W) and follow it about longer visit while (SIDE TRIPS) are worth a stop if 100 meters up a low hill to the excavation (DD you have the time, but may have to be skipped if 40.6833333 x 43.85) Æ + 4 O you want to finish in a single day.

² BENIAMIN - ´ºÜÚ²ØÆÜ (till 1945 + overnight Zhlovkhan, elev. 1584m, pop. 2080) The village 4 camping possible was renamed in honor of a home-boy in WWII, Æ food and drink General-Major Beniamin Galstian, but is not O thermal, mineral springs interesting in itself (there rare a few kiosk on the road).

TRIP 1: ARTIK Excavations in the hills to the east hold a GIUMRI – (Azatan) – BENIAMIN – HOROM – treasure trove of archeological finds, revealing an (Vardakar) – (Nor Giank) - ARTIK - HARICH 80-hectare settlement (8th c. BCE to 4th c. CE) – (Mets Mantash) – (Lake Mantash) - stretching to the west from where you stand. (Arevshat) – (Spandarian) – PEMZASHEN - Uncovered were evidences of a 3rd-2nd c. BCE MARKARAVANK – (Lernakert) – (Maralik) - palace with 5th-4th c. BCE layers underneath. The SARNAGHPIUR – (Dzorakap “Turtle Stone”) site was discovered in 1988, after the – (Lanjik) earthquake, when workers dug up the area to begin work on replacement housing for those The first day trip is a bit of bender, figure a very destroyed in Giumri. In laying the water pipe long day to see it all or break it into two very that can be seen running through the site they easy days or pick as you go. uncovered the walls and numerous artifacts.

Stay: Overnight in Giumri or Artik/village home As you walk SW from the highway turnoff you will (dicey). stumble upon a series of low foundations among Eat: Artik, Maralik cafes. the grass, part of which form a huge palace

ÂTake the Yerevan Road south of Giumri. Just building, located by looking for column bases in south of town, about 6 km, on the right side of the main room. This is a 3rd-2nd c BCE palace the highway is the village of AZATAN (DD area, one of the seats of power or the late Persian and early Arshakuni dynasties. The 40.6502778 x 43.975) Æ + O surrounding rooms include the base for a large

tower to the S and other service areas. The SIDE TRIP: (Azatan - ²½³ï³Ý (till 1945 entire complex was under one roof, making it as Gharakilisa, elev. 1483m, pop. 42296) is large as many palaces in Greece at the same reached taking the right fork and has a striking time. WWII monument shaped like a fortress tower with crosses on top, two 19th century Further NW of this palace, about 100m up the churches, a Catholic (1890) and an Armenian nearest hill are the remains of a smaller palace, Apostolic (1860). The village is better known dated to the 5th-4th c BCE, in the middle of the as the site of an 1826 battle between Tsarist Persian Satrapy period. The rooms are smaller Russian and Persian armies, a deciding factor but no less impressive for their design and detail. in the wresting of Eastern Armenia from Persia Again, column bases form the period show were and the dawning of the Armenian the main room was located. Another of these Enlightenment (the “Armenian Belle Époque”). columns is outside the offices of the Shirak Hence the name “Azatan” (or Free Land). Just Regional Museum in Giumri. th th outside of the village, 1 km SW of the highway the Arshakuni Dynasty in the early CE period. 10 -11 cc, Vahram Pahlavuni being their most are a group of megaliths. On the ‘Ghezh’ hill Excavators believe Beniamin was also the seat of The Kamsarakans led an insurrection against famous medieval progeny. th nearby are 6th c. BCE to 1st c. CE ruins of a the once-powerful Kamsarakan nakharar family, Arshak II in the mid-4 c. and, when they lost, settlement, Azatan’s progenitors. overlords of Shirak and Lori regions and rivals to were practically wiped out, only to rebound in the

Shirak Marz: page 10 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide Khachatrian) artifacts from the 3rd-1st millennium till 1946 Domardash, elev. 1612m, pop. the date in the 7th c. though the archeologist (undecorated ceramics, tools made of basalt, 1031), with Bronze Age and medieval ruins Toros Toramanian (who first excavated tufa, and obsidian). and khachkar shrine nearby. Opposite Zvartnots) dated the church to the 6th century. Vardakar is (Nor Giank - Üáñ ÎÛ³Ýù) (till The church is constructed of native rose-color tuff 1940 Mezhitli, elev. 5761, pop. 34615), with stone. A blind arcade with floral and geometric On the hill slopes and higher you can see the ruined 6-7th c. Grigor Lousavoritch church. motifs carved on the arches decorates the traces of houses consisting of one-two parts built exterior. from big and middle size tufa stones, and having Â Continue south past Nor Giank to ARTIK rectangular or oval-shaped foundations. (about 7 km, DD 40.6172222 x 43.9758333) Æ The church is a cross winged with a central dome A team of Armenian and American archaeologists + 4 O (now gone). The still shows the cornices of the led by Ruben Badalian and Philip Kohl began facades and is the absolute largest of its type. Its excavations recently and have found well- vestry (14.0 X 14.0m) has an area of about 200 ARTIK - (previously “Ardik,” preserved walls and artifacts (sadly not on ² ²ðÂÆÎ sq. m. The eastern apse has a width of 6.45m, display), though you will find innumerable elev. 1919m, pop. 13752) includes not only the while the others have 5.25-5.70m. The eastern potsherds and obsidian. town, but also the nearby sites at Lmbatavank, and western apses are 1.75m in length. The Harich and Tufashen. The town also has a fairly church achieved a perfect form with its new hotel, a restaurant, cafes, mterk shops unsupported vestry, influencing the design of Food across the highway from the dig, khorovatz and kiosks. domes thereafter (as in Mastara). joint; Camping in area; Overnight in village home is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is The “Artik Culture” is a collection of excavations fair); Springs in the area. from the 3rd m BCE that are considered of exceptional importance for research of the ancient settlements of Aragats highland, and its Â Go back to the highway and continue south links with the centres of civilizations in the Old about 3 km to the next large highway East. Artifacts show links with ancient Egypt, interchange. Turn Let (E), and follow the road 3 Babylon, China and Sumeria. about 3 km to HOROM (DD 40.6541667 x Artik town is located in a canyon northeast of 43.8822222) Æ + 4 O Aragats mountain, 20km SE of Giumri. There is a

rail station on the Giumri-Maralik road. The area ² HOROM - ÐàèàØ (elev. 1612m, pop. is rich in volcanic stone (tufa, pumice, basalt, 4256). The village is located on the site of what slag), making it the largest and producer of high was once a large city, some of whose 6 meter quality tufa and pumice stone in the USSR., wide streets have been preserved and are still in particularly for its pink tufa stone. The quarry has resumed work, feeding the dreams of use. Inscriptions can be seen on stones in and around the village. Inside the village is the S. industrialists in Yerevan, but the current town is a Hripsime church (1861), cemeteries, and sad little industrial wasteland on its edges, The smaller church, St. Astvatsatsin or St. Marine th th sepulchres can be seen. and east of town is the punctuated by 18 -19 cc homes and old (St. Harutiun after Eprikian) is 800 meters to the Horom reservoir. religious relics. Artik is also rich with folk east of the central square. No historical data is architecture masterpieces such as water mills available, but is supposed to have been th th But the prize is found south between Horom and with water pipes made of huge tufa pieces, and commissioned by Kamsarakan rivals of the 5 -6 Vardakar, opposite the dam, where two large hills dome-shaped roof houses (unfortunately ruined). c. The Kamsarakans were a noble family vying stand wreathed with massive Bronze Age / for control of the area with the Mamikonians and Urartian citadel walls, the Horom Berd. The Overlook the industrial squalor and you will find later, the Bagratunis. The church is peculiar for cyclopean tufa walls, fragments of which still exit one of Armenia’s richer archeological combining the triple nave basilica form of the 5th destinations, starting in town with the latest enclose 4 sq. m. of territory, one of the largest c with the cross form central dome structures of incarnations, the 4-7th c churches and Bronze- Iron Age settlements in Armenia. In the Food in village, khorovatz stand, kiosks; later periods. The church is cruciform both in the SW of the fortress lies the citadel, protected by a cemeteries. interior and exterior, with cross-wings of various Camping in area; Overnight in village home is second set of cyclopean stone walls, and next to possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Proceed into town, to the town square, which has deepness, the eastern apsidal cross-wing shorter th th it a huge building built in plated, well-polished Springs in the area. a WW II monument. Go up Tonakian St. till you than the western, much deeper hall of the 4 -5 stones around which lie stone-box sepulchers. see two old churches on the left, Marineh or c. The southern and northern cross-wings are

Â Either continue South to Artik or go to the th th much the same. There are three sacristies on the In 1908 B. Khalantiants uncovered the 9th-7th c Astvatsatsin (5 c.) and S. Gevorg (7 c.). opposite side of reservoir for side trips to western side. The cross of the Artik church and BCE sepulchres, and found buried inside iron (Vardakar, (DD 40.6666667 x 43.9166667) and The larger, St. Gevorg (St. Lusavorich by the doming of the square space are entirely tools, javelin tips, daggers and necklaces and (Nor Giank, DD 40.6502778 x 43.975) Alishan) was built without pillars with semicircular different from churches using four pylons, bronze bracelets. Later excavations in 1930 (B. cruciform wings and a collapsed dome. The emphasized in the long walls of single-nave halls Piotrovski, A. Ajian and L. Giuzalian) uncovered SIDE TRIP: NE of Horom, on the opposite bank church has ornaments and architectural patterns (Zovuni, Ptghni, Aruch). It is also different from artifacts from the 13th-9th c BCE, and in 1967 (T. of the reservoir is (Vardakar - ì³ñ¹³ù³ñ - like those fond at Zvartnots and Mastara, placing the four separate standing pylons of three-nave

Shirak Marz: page 11 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide basilicas (Tetsor, Odzun, Mren). The remains of Banks construction have been found, but it is figured to Â Go back to the town square and take the East murals are on the northeast of the dome. Money exchange can be done at some Mterks and be 6th c form its architectural design: cruciform, Road, towards HARICH (DD 40.5980556 x at the local Arshininvest and the ARCA bank, both arched gallery and octahedral dome. An 44.075) + 4 O th th th Using characteristics of 4 -5 c churches, this 5 in the center. inscription states the dome was reconstructed in c church is important as one of the prototypes of the 10th century. Unique to this church was the ² HARICH – Ð²èÆÖ (before “Ghepchagh,” single-apse, three-apse and four-apse cruciform Clinic, Hospital covering of the north and east wings with domes elev. 2487m, pop. 5594) Archaeological central-domed churches that were widely spread For a medical emergency, dial 103. There is a instead of arches (the transition to the domes are excavations begun in 1966 indicate that the in the 6-7th centuries. As it is , it is a superb polyclinic and hospital, but if you can wait, you done with two rows of tromps), the absence of an nearby village of Harich was in existence during example of the early “single-ship” hall church, will find better equipped in Giumri. original apse window (the apse window is so the 2nd century BCE and was one of the more patterned on the pagan temple it replaced. important to the orientation of the altar to the well-known fortress towns in Armenia. OVERNIGHT east, S. Stepanos is on of the only Armenian th PRACTICALS churches to not have a window, confirming to One kilometer SE is an 18 c. cave church in a Hotel some its earlier use as a pagan temple, as the gorge, as well as sepulchres carved in the cliff Area Code: 244 Artik has a newish Tur Hotel in the Tuf District Christian church reversed the pagan altar western stone. orientation. The existing opening was Long Distance: 0244 + local number (on a back street between the town center and There are also ruins of a 5th c. basilica in the constructed later as in Artik’s S. Mariam), the From abroad: +(374) 244 + local number Lmbatavank). The bosetun is fairly clean, new graveyard with buildings on both sides of the horse-shoe shape sacristy and arches. The latter Mobile Phones: 091 Armentel, 093 Viva Cell and if you overlook the business going on, a dining hall. Tombstones from here are now kept were part of experimentation in the development International callers: Armentel +(374) 91 + respite in the middle of nowhere. 5000-10,000 in State Museum of History (Yerevan). of a unique Armenian Church architecture that number, Viva Cell +(374) 93 + local number AMD. was to become hallmarks of the style to the Â Backtrack to center, then take the Harich Road present. IN AND OUT AND AROUND Other (ask) for about 3 km and turn right on a road

Locals are more than willing to put visitors up that corners the prison. You will see Harich and overnight, but pick your digs carefully. Just ask Minivan the vank well before this road, over to the right. around town. Most venues are pretty rustic and Minivans run regularly between Artik and Giumri Take the prison road about 1 km to reach may have no real facilities. 3000-5000 AMD for (1300 AMD) several times a day. They also run HARICHAVANK. bed and breakfast is very fair. twice a day between Artik and Yerevan (1300

AMD). FOOD AND DRINK Taxis Taxis between Artik and Giumri are 3000 AMD, The hotel also has a restaurant frequented by between Artik and Yerevan 12,000 AMD. They local bosses. Armenian menu, 2000-3000 AMD travel anywhere in town for 500 AMD, outside at for multi-course meal. 100 AMD per km. Call taxis can be reached at 11-11, 40-40, 11-00. A Srjaran is near the square, kebab and khorovatz at 500-1500 AMD per shish. COMMUNICATION Mterks and Kiosks around the town.

Fire – 101 Police – 102 Â Take the SW road from Artik (ask for Ambulance service – 103 directions) to LMBATAVANK Gas emergency service – 104 Trunk Line – 107 ² Just SW of Artik, on a hillside overlooking Artik Telephone directory information – 109 There are a number of fresco remains, rare to lies the well-preserved LMBATAVANK – Paging service – 189 find nowadays. Those in the apse on the right ÈØ´²î²ì²Üø (also known as St. Stepanos of and left sides are thought to be contemporary Lmpat - 6th-7th cc) an architectural masterpiece Phone, telegraphs with the construction of the church. One with the S. Stepanos church (6th c.) and The Post Office is located on the main square. depicting Christ enthroned was in the center, important wall paintings. ² HARICHAVANK The village has an Phone cards, long distance calls (USA, Russia 150 while heavenly symbols surrounded him in the impressive WWII monument to the right on the AMD per minute) can be made here. background of tongues of fire. There are two S. Stepanos is a small cross-shaped building outskirts, made from red tufa with wings of horsemen pictured on both sides, facing center, with vaulted roofs, an octahedral drum topped by khachkar-looking stones flanking the main tower. MONEY, MEDICAL, ETC each holding a staff (one of which is S. Gevorg). a dome. The northern and southern wings lie Continue into the village to see the monastery, There are numerous khachkars in the area. under the dome, a unique feature of this building, which towers over everything else.

as was the hall that surrounded the west wing. Camping in area The horseshoe shaped apse is placed in the Harichavank is one of the grandest monasteries

eastern end. No inscriptions from the original in Armenia, steeped in the history of the area and

Shirak Marz: page 12 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide largest cultural center domed cruciform type surrounded by two-story Similar design can be seen in vestries of of medieval Armenia. spaces on each of the 4 corners. In the Saghmosavank and D'segh, built in the middle of At the end of the 12th northwest and southwest corners the second floor the 13th century. The central part of the porch and in the beginning of chapels are reached by steep stone stairs and is covered by tent-shaped, garret-window roofing

1. S. Astvatsatsin the 13th centuries two look out onto the main hall through arched made of jet stone while other parts are covered 2. Gavit magnificent chapels openings, giving the whole interior a palace-like by mirror block. 3. S. Grigor were built from huge appearance. The lateral sides of western end, 4. Refectory 5. Katolikos Residence rocks, the churches bordering with the inside of the church with 6. Hostel of S. Grigor Lusavorich stairs, are the only 3 arched buildings in the 7. Seminary 8. Monk Cells and S. Astvatsatsin, history of Armenian architecture. The only 9. Inn with the two gavits and decoration inside is the ornament on the front 10. Kitchen / Service several chapels wall (intertwined stems and leaves) carved with constructed at various motives typical of the typical 13th century. times.

The first is S. Grigor Lusavorich, a 7th century building with a crossed dome. The apse wings of the cross are semicircular from the inside and pentahedral from outside (as in Mastara and Artik). The center The complex subsequently became known as one is covered by original of the most famous monastic centers in Armenia pendentives on 12 and it was especially renowned for its school and columns, which manuscriptorium. emphasize the expressiveness of the inside. Later in the 10th century one-story The eastern façade is decorated with a series of buildings were added in “belt designs” framing the bas-relief of the church the eastern corner of patrons Zakareh and Ivaneh Zakarian, crowned the church and in the by an elaborate cross. The belt design continues 13th century a certain on the north and south facades, wrapping the Sarkis Dzon initiated narrow windows and “Armenian niches,” where the construction of two- they again form a cross on top of the window story buildings in the framing. The belt details break up the façade’s south-western part. planes creating a deep chiaroscuro (light and shade) and adds plasticity to the otherwise The 4 columned bell austere building, especially with the other tower with the belfry in sculptural ornaments, a graphic style typical for front of its western Georgian monuments (roses, sun-clocks, siren- favored of princes and pretenders, progenitors of birds with a woman's head, crowns, pigeons and Armenia’s patriarchs during the medieval period. entrance and circular roof appeared in the 19th century, when the area of the church was other birds). The entire edifice is crowned by the th It is certainly one of the best preserved, polyhedral drum for the dome, divided by The monastery fell into disrepair in the late 13 - renovated and used by the Katoghikos as a expanded. The church was built over a rock-cut 14th centuries from the invasions of the Mongols, tomb and may have originally been a martirion. pilasters and zigzag cornices and decorated with summer residence in the 19th c. The founding rosettes. Timur and the Ottoman Seljuks, only to revive date of the monastery is unknown. It is thought The ruined basilica of S. Harutiun, located in a again in 1850, when the site became the summer nearby cemetery, is dated to the 5th century. to have been built no later than in the 7th residence of the Katolikos, who renovated and Later Prince Vahan Khechup had a vestry porch th century, when the first church was established. At Two inscriptions on the main church of S. built at the western end of the church (before added numerous 19 century buildings to the the end of the 12th century Ivaneh and Zakareh Astvatsatsin state that it was erected in 1201 1224), including the northern part of S. Grigor complex. One of these buildings houses a small brothers bought Harich from Pahlavunis and built CE by the Amirspasala Prince Zakareh Zakarian, church in the construction. The porch has 4 museum. a church, a wall and a number of buildings. and indeed on the E façade of the church is a columns with a vaulted roof and is decorated in a The Pahlavuni princes (related and rivals to the bas-relief of the brothers Zakareh and Ivaneh. very elaborate “oriental” style, using a mosaic of ² Across the gorge to the south of the village is Bagratuni’s and founders of a lineage of The church is of a type popular at the time: small stones; geometrical shapes and leaves. a BRONZE AGE SETTLEMENT AND FORTRESS Katoghikos) helped the monastery to become the

Shirak Marz: page 13 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide - ´ºð¸ and grave field. The site lies on three 1935 Mets Arkhvali, elev. 1976m, pop. 3792), SIDE TRIP: (Lake Mantash - Ø³ÝÃ³ß ÈÇ× Camping in area; Overnight in village home terraced hills covering 12 hectares of land, first which has an old settlement with traces of a.k.a. Mantash Reservoir) is one of Shirak’s is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); excavated in 1966. Excavation layers cover the early churches, and center for propagation of most beautiful places, 2600 m near the N rim Springs in the area. period from the 3rd m BCE to the 10th c CE, and the medieval Tondrakian heresy. Founded by of Mt. Aragats. Containing over 8 million cubic ’ uncovered (Bronze Age) homes with rectangular a certain Smbat, the Tondrakian sect took its meters of water the reservoir is a favorite and quadrangular foundations and stone name from the village of Tondrak, Armenia (c. destination for fishermen out to catch the fireplaces, and ceramics, tools and jewelry similar 9th century). The Tondrakian heretics rejected famed “karmrakhayt" (alabalagh) trout. to that found at other excavations in the the authority of the Armenian Church's form of Armenian highland. The grave field covers 3 sq baptism, the Eucharist and marriage. Camping in area; Overnight in village home km with an extended row of graves from east to Particularly, they did not admit such Orthodox is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); west. The earthen and stone graves are covered practices as fasts, the offering of sacrifice, Springs in the area. with fine tufa plates, were in different shapes; ordination of priests and celebration of holy round, oval, rectangular, mostly occupied by one days. They were a huge threat to the Â From Met Mantash, take a rural road NW about skeleton, but in a few cases by two. In some established religion throughout the Byzantine 1 km to (Arevshat, DD graves the head was severed and placed in a clay empire, ‘invading’ Armenia in the 9th c. 40.6486111x44.0444444) and another 1 km to pot. Graves had traces of ash and coal, thought (Spandarian, DD 40.665x 44.0188889) + 4 to have been used in the burial ritual to purify the Orthodox historians of the eighth to twelfth O final resting place for the deceased. Also found centuries accuse the Paulicians and their were the bones of sacrificial animals. Also found followers of armed collaboration with Moslem SIDE TRIP: (Arevshat / Spandarian - were clay statues of animals polished in black and enemies and of detestable practices, such as ²ñ¢ß³ï / êå³Ý¹³ñÛ³Ý) From Mets decorated with color, as well as kitchen pottery. devil-worship, evil nocturnal rites and pagan Mantash take the northwest road to (Arevshat customs. Grigor Magistros, the Imperial Items from the early medieval and later period governor, within whose jurisdiction Tondrak - ²ñ¢ß³ï) (till 1948 Yekanlar, elev. 1949m, (pottery, iron and glass objects, coins, etc.) lay, called the place Shnavank, "Monastery of pop. 4792). The 14- 15th c. church, rebuilt in showed occupation in the fort and surrounding Dogs," "where men dressed in clerical garb 1873, had in earlier times a fortress nearby. A area continued until construction of the Harich lived in company with a multitude of prostitute few miles northwest is (Spandarian - monastery, after which the population settled in women." Not content with such verbal and êå³Ý¹³ñÛ³Ý - till 1946 Giulizha, elev. the present Harich village. written castigation, Magistros sent a strong 1851m, pop. 3662) which was renamed for the Armenian Communist revolutionary killed police force to purge this source of scandal and leading the Bolshevik uprising in Baku. The Camping in area; Overnight in village home is corruption. The ruins at Mets Mantash speak to Â Go Back to Artik Center, take a left at the village has a ruined church, an Iron Age fort possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); the backlash against them. bridge (bridge is under repairs), and skirt around and an Urartian cuneiform inscription Springs in the area. it to the main road to the Giumri Highway and attributed to Argishti I on a nearby cliff. Camping in area; Overnight in village home then take that road SW about 4 km to is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Â Either Go Back to Artik or Continue opposite to PEMZASHEN (DD 40.5933333 x 43.94) + 4 (Nahapetavan, DD 40.6 x 44.0166667) + 4 Springs in the area. Camping in area; Overnight in village home is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); O O Â From Mets Mantash, take a rutted road SE Springs in the area.

about 15 km to (Lake Mantash) + 4 O ² PEMZASHEN - äºØ¼²ÞºÜ (“Of Pumice,” SIDE TRIP: Nearby is the village of Â Go Back to Artik and then take the road elev. 1872m, pop. 15923). Go into the village, (Nahapetavan- Ü³Ñ³å»³í³Ý, elev. Southwest about 2 km t the Tufashen turn off W and on the road to Lernakert (S/SW to just th 2223m, pop. 3727), with its 6 century S. and continue another 2.5 km to (Tufashen, DD before the electric station take the dirt road that Gevorg church. 40.6000 x 43.9000) + 4 O crosses the rail road tracks), behind the old

university building you will find a (uniquely) Camping in area; Overnight in village home SIDE TRIP: Tufashen - îáõý³ß»Ý (elev. decorated 6th c. ruined church abutting the is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); 524m, pop. 1777) has on the southern mount foundations of a large 5th c. hall church, made Springs in the area. of Bolorsar (1784.8 m) the excavations of a from polished tufa and on a multi-level

well developed settlement from the Middle foundation. The horseshoe apse has a

Bronze Age forward. Excavations reveled pentagonal exterior. The church is divided by Â From Harichavank, Go Back to Artik especially rich finds from the 15th-13th cc, 12th- three pairs of wall-columns into four, almost

11th cc, and 10th-9th cc BCE periods: excavated equal sections. The entrances are from south Â From Artik, take the NE road about 10 km to pottery with amazing decorations, Khura seals, and west. In the center a winged cross is carved (Mets Mantash, DD 40.6494444 x 44.0508333) bronze leave-shape dagger, bracelets, inside a circle. + 4 O Sardinian beads, agate, and pasta, pike spearheads, iron knife, dagger, and domino Butting up against the 5th c basilica is a small SIDE TRIP: Take the road about 10 km type bead. 6th c. single nave church made of polished red th northeast past Saralanj (5 century basilica tufa with an arched dome and a semicircular apse ruins) to (Mets Mantash - Ø»Í Ø³ÝÃ³ß - till set into the rectangular walls. The large apse is

Shirak Marz: page 14 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide unique for single-nave churches, and is an western entry is decorated with a sculpture of the Camping in area; Overnight in village home example of the experimentation and development Mother of God with the infant Christ in her arms, is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); of church architecture already underway in the an open-armed churchwarden in front and angels Springs in the area. 5th c. The sole entrance for the church is on the above. west. The church is set on a multi-step foundation, reminiscent of pre-Christian temples. The frame of the portal is decorated with ornamental motifs similar to those found on the portal of Avan cathedral (also 6th c) and Hripsime (7th c). Unique to this church is its tabula ansata, an interesting element on its southern wall, a kind of clean slate to write on, with swallowtail endings typical for Roman architecture.

On the western end of the village, also across the rail track and up a rising hill is MARKARAVANK -

Ø³ñù³ñ³í³Ýù dating to the 10-13th c,

with the S. Sion church, constructed for Sahak Â Go Back to Pemzashen and turn Left, going W On the eastern end of the village is the 11th c. (unknown) in 1001. The domed hall survives towards (Maralik). The city lies on the other side Arakelotz Vank - ²é³ù»Éáó ì³Ýù (dirt road to with parts of the western wall and fragments of of the Giumri-Yerevan Highway. Either take Side left) in the same design as S. Sion (the difference the rest of the structure. The dome was set upon Trip to (Maralik, DD 40.5722222x 43.8669444) an octahedral drum and the arched roofing was being the absence of niches on the west façade). or go on to Sarnaghpiur + 4 O covered with stone roofing. An old cemetery The single nave has a western entrance. The surrounds the church, with tombstones and some other buildings of the vank are in ruins, except SIDE TRIP: The eastern end of (Maralik - the lower fragment of the bell tower, which, like khachkar samples. Ø³ñ³ÉÇÏ, elev. 1717m, pop. 1213) has some the church, was built from large polished red tufa caves inhabited from prehistory to medieval stones. Camping in area; Overnight in village home is times, 11th-12th c. khachkars, and a 1903 possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); church. In the gorge below, reached by a steep path is Springs in the area.

the 17th c. Astvatsatsin church a single-nave Camping in area; Overnight in village home arched roof building built on older foundations, Â Either Go Back to Pemzashen, or Go on to side is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); and a monk’s cell carved from the cliff. Showing further experimentation is the 6th c. trip to (Lernakert, DD 40.5669444x43.9361111) Springs in the area. central dome cruciform church set between + 4 O West of the vank is a large carved tomb the two basilicas, built from large red tufa blocks. The church is has a rectangular exterior with the memorial, dedicated to Ablgharib, the brother of SIDE TRIP: Go another 3 km on the same Â Go S on the Giumri-Yerevan Highway about 1 cruciform interior, the western wing elongated Vahram Pahlavuni is located with a big, road S to (Lernakert - È»éÝ³Ï»ñï, elev. kilometer from Maralik to a side road on the left ornamental khachkar rising above a 3-step and squared off at the portal, the north and south 2012m, pop. 1959) This is a pretty little hamlet that angles SE then continue about 2 km to pedestal (built by Sarkis Archimandrite in 1036). wings ending in semicircular apses. The NE and made of old, though ruined, traditional stone KARMIR VANK + 4 O

SE corners have small 3-story chambers with houses. The houses, like those in Tashir, In the SE area of the village is an old cemetery arched vaulting and numerous niches in the remind one of the type of structure common ² KARMIR VANK – Î²ðØÆð ì²Üø is located with a 13th-14th c Khachkar. On top of the SE walls, presumably to store manuscripts and the throughout Northern Armenia, sturdy homes in a dramatic cleft of the mountains, peering over hill of Avan are traces of medieval fort walls. church treasury. The NW and SW chambers are using traditional materials that are both the Sarnaghpiur River and the opposite side the irregularly shaped as they are made to fit into the practical (they stay warm in winter, cool in gorge. The 11th c. church is a cruciform type 1940 excavations in Pemzashen uncovered a rich basilicas. Wall joints have marginal grooves as summer) and beautiful. Just past the square, with a small central hall and four antechambers collection of Bronze and Iron Age artifacts well as the stone master’s signature symbols. on the left and a bit above is a simple 5th c in its corners. The compact church has niches in (mainly different arrows and jewelry), found The walls also include tabula ansatas. basilica with remarkably thick walls. is walls topped by fan vaulting, and is crowned together with pieces of black varnish ceramics with a circular drum and tent roof. The woman and other materials. A valuable discovery is a The building is wrapped with a cornice belt and The building is now used as a barn, a practical, selling candles on weekends and holidays has stone lion-figure, much like similar artifacts from has small arches spanning the walls. The window if scandalous (to the church) use of a religious been working at the site from when it was the Urartian period. frontons (head sculptures) are typical for the 6th- monument. South of the village is a Poghos- renovated, and has some interesting stories to

7th cc, as is the dome structure; an octahedral Petros (Ss. Paul and Peter) khachkar shrine, tell, such as the time none of the construction drum and dome crown the cube-shaped building, and two forts with cyclopean walls. workers would risk climbing the dome when the with tromps on the dome’s second row church was completed, so she (in her 60s mind) ornamentally carved. The tympanum over the

Shirak Marz: page 15 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide scrambled up the steep roof to complete the to Grigor Lousavoritch. The springs are reputed The region is also famous for its “tonirs,” clay building with its cross. to have been visited by St. Grigor Lousavoritch ovens used to bake lavash and the tastiest himself. khorovatz (BBQ). Say yes if they offer!

Near the church are the foundations of a series of One of the best times to visit are during a Camping in area; Overnight in village home is 4th-6th and 7th c nave churches that were holiday. We visited on Vardevar (3rd Sunday in possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); replaced by the vank. The foundations and July, when locals pour water on each other—and Springs in the area. layout are hallmarks of pagan temples that once tourists—in a kind of “baptism” rite held over dotted the landscape, and served as stopping from pagan days, but now it is all fun) and found points for pilgrims making their ways to the Â Go back to the Yerevan Highway, and Either a huge celebration in progress. Each home sacred springs in the village. End Day Trip 1, or Go S on the Highway for opened its doors to anyone who wished to visit (Dzorakap, DD 40.5666667x 43.8666667) and and piled on its tables local foods and delicacies. Camping in area; Springs in the area. People from all the surrounding villages came to (Lanjik, DD 40.5094444x 43.8563889) + 4

attend the service and music concert by the Â Continue another 3 km (and past the O church and to collect water form the Lusavorich Sarnaghpiur Lake) to the village of springs. And of course all around there was an SIDE TRIP: Continue south about 2 km to SARNAGHPIUR (DD 40.5188889x 43.92) + 4 orgy of water fights and splashing. (Dzorakap - Òáñ³Ï³å - till 1935 O Boghazkiasan, elev. 1758, pop. 2213), which To the right (W) of the church are the ruins of S. as a 1783 S. Astvatsatsin church. The point of ² SARNAGHPIUR – ê²èÜ²Ô´Úàôð Hakob (5th-6th cc.) and Karapet (1205), once this village though is the “Turtle Stone” that (elev. 2039m, pop. 4722) On the way to connected by stone corridors you can still see. overlooks the Yerevan highway on a bend. Sarnaghpiur, about 1 kilometer on the right is The churches are single nave structures, thought Some people think it’s good luck to go lie on Hokevank, a 13th c. monastery complex. to have been erected over earlier pagan temples, the stone, others just want a photo op.

and are decorated unlike any other church we Continue south on the Yerevan Highway to Beyond a dam and reservoir lies Sarnaghpiur have found in Armenia, with a rich tapestry of (Lanjik - È³ÝçÇÏ - till 1947 Muslughlu, elev. (“Cold Spring”, till 1940 Sogutlu or Gh’zelkilisa), folk and peasant designs on a wooden screen 6328, pop. 6347). Just SW of the village is a which has some great architectural details in a protecting the sacristy. The design is so richly Bronze Age cyclopean fort & grave field. few of its houses, including one remaining adorned and so free in its appearance, it fireplace wall of an 1801 building, replete immediately reminds one of the collage work Camping in area; Overnight in village home with oriental archway and elaborate geometric done by the 20th c artists Sergei Parajanov. This is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); designs. The wall is on the left as you take the is a must see. Springs in the area. main road up to the springs.

On a hill 6 km east are the ruins of S. Ghazar (5- The name comes from a spring flowing from a Â END OF TRIP 1 6th cc.) There are three Iron Age cyclopean forts cave in the rear of the village, the waters from in the vicinity. The two earlier structures are the which are believed to have healing powers. To bases of a hall church and a tetraconcha, which ² ² ² ² ² get there, go through the village and turn left just has trihedral apses on the outside. The surviving before S. Tadevos church (1883), then take first cornice fragment is a specimen of a cornice that paved road to right. The cave is walled over (ask was widely used in Armenian architecture in the for a key the house on the right—don’t worry second half of the 7th c. they will see you coming), also serves as a shrine

SIDE TRIP: (Getk - ¶»ïù, till 1945 Daharlu, TRIP 2: AKHURIAN VALLEY elev. 1471m, pop. 1890) has two churches GIUMRI – (Getk) – (Teghenis) - destroyed in the 1926 earthquake, but is (Yerazgavors) – GUSANAGIUGH – mostly known for being at the headwaters of (Shirakavan) – (Isahakian) – (Bardzrashen) the Akhurian reservoir, a massive project – WALLS OF ANI - JRAPI – (Sarakap) - completed by the Turkish and Soviet HAIKADZOR - KHARKOV (ANI) - ANIPEMZA governments in 1980. The reservoir is 20 km / YERERUIK long and 3 km at its widest point, able to irrigate 104,000 hectares on both sides o the Stay: Overnight in Giumri, village home (rustic) border. The reservoir varies by season, with Eat: Anipemza, roadside stands. relatively little water from August to April, but

Day Trip 2 features the churches and sites in the in the spring when the snows melt and heavy old district Maralik, along the Akhurian Reservoir, rains fall it fills to capacity and forms a unique skirting the fabled 9th-13th century capital of the micro-climate the sustains a unique collection Armenian Kingdom Ani and Armenia’s ancient of wildlife and supports a large migration of capital Yervandashat. Both are across the border, birds, including 32 species of water birds that in present day Turkey. can be found during migration and 55 special status birds, with dense populations found Notes: the border at Ani is not open to the along the reservoir in early spring and late fall. casual visitor. To See Ani, you will need a guide Migratory and resident birds include (near (from Giumri) who can make the arrangements Bayandur and Yerazgavors) black stork, great (and pay necessary “fees” to the border guard). white and kittle egrets and great white It is entirely possible you will not be able to pelicans; near Jrapi and Aghin and the riparian arrange this on a short visit. forests Squacco herons, great bitterns and great snipes. Between Getk and Jrapi it is forbidden to take pictures of the border. This is especially true The Akhurian Valley is itself located in what along the reservoir shores. Tourists have had was once a large prehistoric lake, formed by their cameras taken by border patrols “for lava flows from Mt. Aragats and the Alaja security reasons”. Inland form the beach you volcanic range, blocking the valley near should be OK, as well as when you pass the Kharkov, trapping the Paleolithic waters to reservoir itself. form a huge lake more than 50 km long and 40 km wide. The lake lasted as long as lava flows Â Take the Southwest Highway towards Armavir. continued to reinforce the natural dam, but as On the way you pass the turn off for Akhurik - they cooled the rive gradually wore down the ²ËáõñÇÏ (Turkish frontier, now closed) and the lava rock and emptied the great lake to its Akhurian Rail Station, a massive facility built it present natural form. Formed mostly during the 1980’s with special equipment to lift rail cars the Miocene era, there are few remaining from one rail gauge and onto the other. This pyroclastic materials and lava structures, near allowed rail cars from one side of the border to Bagratashen and Bagravan. travel on the gauge rail of the other. It was never used, a relic of the days when perestroika The Akhurian River is the largest tributary to seemed possible. Go about 6 km S to (Getk, DD the Arax River, which in turns feeds the Kuras 40.7333333x 43.7833333) 4 O and flows into the Caspian Sea. Along the way it forms the border with Turkey and Iran, then NOTE ON PHOTOS: You are traveling along the as the Arax with Azerbaijan. Springs along the border with Turkey with numerous border posts river are more abundant on the Turkish side, manned by Russian and Armenian soldiers. It is but there are a few mineral springs on the forbidden to pictures at any point on the border, Armenian side, especially at Aghin and Jrapi and tourists have had their film (and cameras) Villages. confiscated for violating this law. If you are anywhere in sight of a border tower, do not risk At the right time of the year (Spring) you will it. There are couple of spots where it seems OK find a wide variety of flora, including Feather to take pictures and we mark them along the grass, couch grass, fescue and a variety of way, but you still do it at your own risk. legumes. Further south are absinthe, everlasting and riparian forests and 24 species

listed in the Red Book of Endangered species. ² GUSANAGIUGH - ¶àôê²Ü²¶ÚàôÔ (till Bagratuni (Bagratid) family, before they moved unarmed divine personage (the “Kerberian Endemic Flora includes Kars Hollyhock in the 1977 Ghapulu, elev. 4990, pop. 7938) The their capital to Ani, 25 km S. cluster”). northern end of the reservoir (its only natural village is named after an Armenian bard South of the village is the excavation of habitat in Armenia), Hare’s Ear, Tigran’s (“Gusan”) who was born here, Nakhshikar Sargis. A nearby Stone Age site with mammoth bones Sevakn (where Sevkan stream joins the elderberry, Akhurian Currant, Rose of Sharon, In the village there are the ruins of an 11th c. is also submerged, but a cyclopean fort Akhurian river- partially under water), Caucasian Iris, Elegant Iris, Furcated Iris, church and a standing 19th c black tufa church remains on a hill above. There is or was a large excavated in 1977. The excavation showed a Dwarf Iris, Sage, Gray Germander, Kurdish (square exterior with a cross form interior, four church nearby. large temple area (2nd c BCE - 3rd c.) with fritillary, Starflower, Miniature tulip and antechambers in the corners) at the point on the links to Rome and Persia (Parthia). Oriental poppy. road you turn left to climb a small hill to reach Camping in area; Overnight in village home

the impressive 10th-11th c walls of a is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Heracles Myth Statue During excavations, a Fauna include the Muskrat, Water vole, wild fortress/castle. Springs in the area. number of funerary items were uncovered in a boar, Western European hedgehog, European shaft-grave dated ca 1300-1100 BCE, including hare, jerboa, Pine marten, Stone marten, a unique bronze sculpture among a variety of Â Go S on the highway about 6 km to Side Trip Caucasian mole, Golden jackal, Grey wolf, Red artifacts ritually intended to secure the fox, African wild cat, Jungle cat, Levantine (Isahakian, DD 40.6166667x 43.7252778) 4 passage of the soul from the world of the living viper, Sahara sand viper, Near East viper, + O to the realm of the dead and the afterlife. The Grass snake, Dice snake, Mediterranean spur- sculpture depicts a hero- or god-archer thigh tortoise, freshwater crab and re-clawed SIDE TRIP: (Isahakian - Æë³Ñ³ÏÛ³Ý - till dragging a captured monstrous dog of crayfish. 1945 Ghazarabad-Ghazar Aga, before that terrifying appearance by some kind of a leash Kharum, elev. 1555m, pop. 2262) is named (chain or rope that has not been preserved) Camping near the reservoir would be nice but after a hero of the Russo-Persian wars. Aga attached to a massive collar. The connection of probably not possible, watch for border led the village in a successful defense against this with the entrance to the netherworld is guards; Springs in area. the Persians in 1826-28. seen as a parallel to the myth recounting the

capture of Kerberos by Heracles. SIDE TRIP: Teghenis Fort - î»Õ»ÝÇë ´»ñ¹ Camping in area; Overnight in village home Between Getk and Yerazgavors, over to the In the Greek tradition Kerberos was believed to is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); right (W) you can see the outline of a large be a brother of the Nemean lion killed by Springs in the area. 11th c fortress on a hill. The huge (more than Heracles. Meanwhile the solar hero of

four stories) fortress once protected the Armenian epics are reflected in The Daredevils The two walls seem to tiptoe on top of a ring of a Â At Isahakian take side road SE another 4 km outskirts of Ani form the northern approaches. of Sasun, namely Mher, who also kills a lion. huge cyclopean rock base, itself made from the to (Bardzrashen, DD 40.0852778x 44.5786111) It is now in Turkish hands. The fortress can be This myth of the capture of a beast guarding remnants of a Bronze/Iron Age fortress. Note the seen in detail using binoculars or a zoom the entrance to the world of the dead by a 4 + O pockmarked walls, the scars the results of rifle camera. deity without weapons probably had a Proto- and cannon shot during battles against 400 years Indo-European origin. In fact the Armenian SIDE TRIP: (Bardzrashen - ´³ñÓñ³ß»Ý till Â From Getk continue S on the highway about 6 of attacks by Turkish and Persian armies, the last god Aralezk in the form of a wolf or dog, is 1947 Baburlu, elev. 1070m, pop. 3314) has a of which, in the late 18th century completely km to (Yerazgavors, DD 40.7x 43.7666667) 4 found depicted in bronze figurines from the 4th 7th c. S. Astvatsatsin church and close by a ruined the fort. But what remains is truly + O millennium BCE forward, found at sits in Poghos-Petros hermit area. impressive, the walls rising well over 4 stories Shirak, Aragatsotn and Lori. SIDE TRIP: (Yerazgavors - ºñ³½·³íáñë above the monolithic foundations. About 1-2 km Camping in area; Overnight in village home (“Deer Hunter”, till 1945 Aralikh, or W of the village on uneven terrain are the The dog in Armenia is a sacred symbol as well is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Shirakavan, elev. 1471m, pop. 2938) has a remains of a cyclopean fortress (Urartian) near as a protector. The Armenian Gampr or Springs in the area. church (9th c.) and a few medieval remains, Ghak and Shvaghtapa. shepherd dog has been known to originate including ruins of two fortresses, one in the from the Armenian mountains, its progeny village and one W of the river bank. Camping in area; Overnight in village home is representing the ancient myths. The figurines Â Go back to Isahakian then Left (S) on the possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); found here simply confirms its existence. Highway about 6.8 km (past the Aghin Railroad Camping in area; Overnight in village home Springs in the area. Four principal depictions of dogs are found in Station) to the turnoff for Sarakap. Urn left (E) is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Indo-European mythology: Companions of and continue another 3.3 km to (Sarakap, DD Springs in the area. Â Backtrack to the highway, turn left (S) and divine hunters (Orion, Wodan et al.); Serving 40.5561111x 43.7208333) 4 + O

continue about 1.9 km to (Shirakavan, DD the Lord of the Dead (Yama, Geri and Freki of Â From Yerazgavors, continue south about 4 km Odin, Zoroastrianism, Armenian Aralezk, (past Bayandur) to the 2nd large highway 40.6591667x 43.7386111) 4 + O SIDE TRIP: (Sarakap - ê³ñ³Ï³å till 1935 Hermes, etc.) oftentimes healing and interchange on left (Chalalai V.), turn Left (E), Bozdoghan, elev. 1589m, pop. 1613) has the SIDE TRIP: (Shirakavan - ÞÇñ³Ï³í³Ý till resurrecting the dead; Evil dogs slain or ruins of the 6-7th c. S. Astvatsatsin church, and follow the potted road 4 km to 1950 Davshanlan, elev. 1498m, pop. 2621) is sacrificed by warrior-gods or heroes (Kandaon, GUSANAGIUGH (DD 40.6691667 x 43.7883333) rebuilt in 1885 and 6 km of hard trudging SE newly coined, built after the original Medieval Kandaules, Cu Chulainn, Hittite, Balkans, are the ruins of Karmir (Red) Vank or Ghriji 4 + O village was flooded during filling the Akhurian Roman, and Celtic traditions); and Monstrous (Gray) Vank (7th c). reservoir. The original (opposite shore, near dogs, guardians of the entrance to the Bash-Shoragial) was the 9th c. seat of the netherworld bound and subjugated by an

Shirak Marz: page 18 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide Camping in area; Overnight in village home and ironically, if you substitute camels for cows is entirely possible you will not be able to arrange is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); you have a pretty good idea of the way this this on a short visit. Diehards may try. "Its nobles in their gorgeous costumes and Springs in the area. building was used (and smelled) as does an 1874 glittering array of armor and equipment, held church. To the E of the church are the ² KHARKOV (ANI) - Ê²ðÎàì / ²ÝÇ sway in their baronial seats; the people danced Â Go back to the highway, turn left (S) and pull foundations of an 11th c single nave church, also and sang merry songs, the sounds of the flute, up to a stop for a glimpse of the WALLS OF ANI brought up form the old village. Tours to Ani can be made by contacting Valodia cymbals and other instruments gladdened the air. Aroushian at AniTour, 28 Isahakian p. in Yerevan, Old people in their crowns of white hair, ² WALLS OF ANI - ²ÝÇÇ ä³ñÇëåÝ»ñÁ One km S of Jrapi is a 1st millennium BCE grave tel. in Yerevan: (010) 52-78-34, 57-80-63, 52- The walls and outline of the standing churches of field, hidden among the grass and not marked. 42-79, URL: www.anitour.am, e-mail: the mothers pressing their children in their Ani can be seen form the side of the road, to the [email protected]. Referrer: Stepan Ter- arms, the newly-wedded couple emerging from SW. In clear weather they are amazingly Poor Camping in area; Overnight in village Margaryan. the church, all radiated happiness. . . . As for detailed. As you approach Jrapi from the home is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is the King, when he rode out of the city in the Sarakap turn off, look into the distance on your fair); Springs in the area. Kharkov (elev. 4698, pop. 5137) is perched on morning in his resplendent attire and pearl- right (W) for a hill with white chalk inscriptions the Akhurian river, across from the 9th-13th cc laden crown, astride his white mare with her (Turkey), to the left is an orange roofed building Â Continue S on the highway about 3 km to the Armenian capital Ani. Much of it gone, still the trappings of gold glittering under the rays of and the rail line with a blue and white tower. Haikadzor turn off, then another 2 km to city of 100,000 has ruins of churches, palace and the sun, dazzling every eye, he was like a From that point look to the left for a large tree, HAIKADZOR (DD 40.5377778x 43.6608333) 4 walls enough to impress. The chance to see an bridegroom or like the day-star, which rising and between them in the far distance you will see + O entire city of 100,000 laid to waste by Byzantine, above the world, attracts all eyes to itself, compels everybody to gaze upon it with the outlines of the city. Turkish and Mongol invasions is rare and compelling. wonder; while the numerous troops who ² HAIKADZOR - Ð²ÚÎ²Òàð (till 1950 Â From the Sarakap turnoff it is about 1.3 km to marched before him in compact masses, Gh’zelkilisa, “Red Church,” elev. 1489m, pop. History the JRAPI Church and Karavanserai, on the left rippling over the hills, resembled the waves of 1827), named for Horomos Vank across the A stronghold of the Kamsarakan family from the the sea, rolling over one another on the (E) (DD 40.5569444x 43.6827778) 4 + O reservoir, is the home to the S. Grigor 4th century, one of the first kings in the Bagratid beach." Lusavorich church (985 CE), restored in 13th c. line, King Ashot (the Meat-eater), bought Ani for ² JRAPI - æð²öÆ (till 1947 Chirpli and The church is a fine example of the type of Armenia in the first half of the ninth century. The glory days ended soon enough, with dual Keghach, elev. 1533m, pop. 2921) is a new construction favored in the early reign of the Strategically placed on one of the trade routes invasions by the Caliphate and the Albanians village replacing the two halves of old Jrapi. A Bagratunis, the restoration shows that favored by running from Persia (India/China) to the Black (Azerbaijanis) on one side and pressure from medieval bridge on the Akhurian is now under the Pahlavunis or Kamsarakans, during the last Sea, the city became vital in the 10th century Byzantium to succumb to its control. And, in true water, as were most of the village’s historic flowering of culture in the region before Seljuk when wars between the Arabs and the Byzantine Armenian fashion, Bagratuni princes fought buildings, but a few remain, now located on hill to and Mongol invasions. Note The church is right Empire made the trade route along the Euphrates amongst themselves for possession of the land. the left. Among them is a small but evocative on the border, and you may not be able to take unsafe for caravans. Massively and suddenly rich, First taken by the Byzantines in 1044, Ani was black and red tuf 1874 church with wooden pictures (be sure to check for border guards and the Bagratunis were able to turn a simple fortress then invaded by Seljuks in 1064. The city lost its beams supporting the metal roof, its stones ask first). into a royal residence and a small village into the power and the capital moved to Dvin. There was pulled up from its original location under the capital of a kingdom. a short rebirth in the 13th century, under the reservoir to its current location. Haikadzor is an alternate route to Ani, and if you Pahlavunis, before a last gasp with the invasion have someone to take you (who is connected) The Bagratunis enlarged their city to an area of of the Mongols and Timur. and/or get permission from a border guard about 4,000 acres, built a series of outer walls exactly, you may be able to get by here. But and spanned the Arpa-Chai River with bridges to The Site they almost always say ‘nyet’ and look fiercely on help the caravans plodding between Trebizond Standing on the hill by Kharkov, you can see the those trying to sneak by. and the East. The caravanserai at Jrapi is one outline of the great city, built in a triangle on the such building, housing caravans on the outer rims river and plateau. On two sides cliffs drop off to Â Go back to the Highway then S about 6 km to of the city where they could not engage in ravines and on the third the remains of a massive Bagravan, named for an ancient Armenian intrigue or debase its inhabitants (deflower the wall, 40 to 50 feet tall in places, cut the city off religious site on the far side of the river near the farmer’s daughters, so to speak). When Gagik I, from the flat tableland. capital of the first Armenian kings, Yervandashat. who reigned from 990 to 1020, completed the Then continue about 3 km and, just past the Ani Great Cathedral and established the seat of the In Ani you can see the perfection of Armenian Railway station, a little dirt road leads to the Katolikos in Ani in 992, Armenia reached its Architecture in solving the problem of dome border checkpoint, manned by Russian soldiers. zenith. construction, a solution many believe became the If they let you in, proceed to a hill W of original models for Gothic architecture. The KHARKOV (DD 40.5166667x 43.6) overlooking The chronicler Aristakes of Lastivert, who lived dome developed early in Armenia, along with the ANI basilica. Spurred by a desire to distance church through and recorded the glories and fall of the Bagratuni kingdom, described the kingdom buildings from their earlier Pagan forms, as well Note: the border at Ani is not open to the casual before the invasion of the Seljuks. In his own as to physically create in stone the apparition of To its S is a reconstructed 11th c. caravanserai,. visitor. To See Ani, you will need a guide (from poetic, Oriental manner, he wrote that Ani was St. Grigor for the site of Echmiadzin The caravanserai is often used a stalls for local Giumri) who can make the arrangements (and like a large garden; verdant, clothed in foliage, (“…[A]mazing arches are intertwined on their farmers and the grill of an old soviet car now pay the necessary “fees” to the border guard). It laden with flowers and fruit. columns, and above them I could see a cube- makes its gate. The cows don’t seem to mind, shaped dome”).

Shirak Marz: page 19 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide Armenia’s domes take their roots from the 56. Foundation ruins 57. Oil Press wooden broach roof of Armenian dwelling houses, 58. Burial mounds as Xenophon described it in his time. The use of 59. Horom Tikin (The Lady Horom) church a dwelling house borrowed for a sanctuary is not 60. Oil Press 61. Minaret : Abu Muamran mosque unique, and the Armenian house glhatun, with an 62. Burial mound hazarashen roof is a true example of a dome-like 63. Ruins 64. Oil Press roof on a cube. 65. Burial mounds 66. Church ruins ANI PLAN LARGE DETAILED MAP AT END OF CHAPTER 67. Prelate residence 68.-69a. Colonnade Outside the City: 69. Burial mound 1. Bathhouse ruins 70. Burial mound 2. Ramparts 71. S. Sarkis church 3. Burial mound 73. Ani Cathedral 4. Kirakos Mausoleum 73a.“Checkboard House” (exc. 1908) 5. Chapel ruins 72. Cathedral baptistry 6. Chapel ruins 73. Queen Katranideh mausoleum 7. Stone church 74. Oil Press Church ruins 76a. Oil Press 75. Tower & vaulted passage Inside the City : 76. Tower & underground passage 8. "Baron's palace" 78a. Church 9. Church with a Corinthian capital 77. Burial mound 10. Stone church 78. Burial mound 11. Unknown Ruins 79. Ruins 12. Palace ruins 80. S. Grigor Honents church 13. Oil Press 81. Baths (exc. in 1893) 14a. Subterranean room 82. Burial mound 14. S. Grigor of King Gagik (Gagikashen) 83. Vaulted gallery 15. Burial mound 84. Oil Press 16. Palace of Sarkis 85. Underground entry 17. Oil Press 86. Chapel 18. Oil Press 88a. Ruins 19. Large church ruins 87. Guardhouse 20. Tunnels 88. Ruins 21. Oil Press 89. Ruins 22. Baths 91a. Ruins 23. Bakhtakegi church (exc. 1892) 90. Gusanants Vank (Monastery of the Virgins) 24. Oil Press 25. "Georgian Church" Old City (Ashot's walls): 26. Refuse pit 91. Secular building 27. Minukhir Tower 92. King Ashot Wall 28. Oil Press 93. Minukhir Mosque (museum ) 29. Oil Press 94. Bridge 30. Oil Press 95. House 31. Ruins 96. Church ruins 32a. Ruins 97. Museum 32b. Oil Press 99a. Nikoli Marr excavation residence 32. Church ruins 100. Oil press, ruins 33. Church ruins 101. Karimadin church (the red church) 34. Church ruins (?) 102. Astvatsatsin Khambuchents 35. Ruins 103. Burial mound 36. 4-columned fire temple later converted to a church 104. Abu Khatsip church 37. S. Arakelots (Holy Apostles) church 104a. Subterranean city entry 38. Hostels (exc. 1908) 105. Gaiyl Mausoleum 39. Red church 106. Church 40. Two large rooms 107. 4-Columned structure ruins 41. Burial mound 108. Ruins 42. Burial mound The Citadel: 43. Burial mound 109. Royal palace 44. Church ruins 109a. Palatine church 45. Church ruins (wooden décor) 109b. Palace Hall 46. Church ruins 109c. Palace Hall 47a. Oil press 109d. Palace Hall 47. Baths 109e. Palace Baths 48. Burial mounds 109f. Palace Cistern 49. “Checkerboard Church” (alternating color stone façade) 110. Midjnaberd Church 50. S. Amnaprkitch (Church of the Holy Redeemer) 111. Vaulted structure 51a. Church ruins 112. Tetraconch church 51. Church ruins 113. Church 52a. Ruins 114. Hexagonal church 52b. Burial mound 115. Armenian Cemetery 52. S. Grigor Abughamir church 118. Water conduit 53. Ruins Kizkale Peninsula: 54. Oil Press 116. Kamsarakan tower bridge 55. Ruins of church with khachkar 117. S. Grigor Aljkaiberdi Convent

Shirak Marz: page 20 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide last to the basilica and cruciform plans, and fact, it was the cohesive unit that bound the Saint Grigor, in a church, a building. The church Towers 1-95 – Outer Wall towers sometimes a synthesis of all three. And the Armenians to their culture, to their king, and of the holy redeemer embodied his spirit. 1-7 King Ashots Wall pendentive, according to Mr. Strzygowski, was ultimately, to their survival against the Arabs, Inscriptions cover the remaining structure, 1-4 Citadel wall developed by the Armenians. Persians and Turcomans that were sweeping showing its purpose and symbol. The Prince 1-4 Kizkale Main Gates across their lands. Ablgharib Pahlavid (Pahlavuni) had inscribed on I: Igadzor valley gate At Ani there is ample evidence that in the Church the walls: II + III: Kars gate, walls IV + V: Lion gate, walls. of Saint Gregory the Illuminator (completed The church- both its idea as a conduit to God and VI + VII: Checkerboard gate, walls 1215) the Armenians at least used the its physical presence—was the embodiment of an "In the year 480 (A.D. 1035), I, Ablgharib VIII: Gayladzor postern gate pendentive. This church is perched on the side of Armenian idea; that no matter how strong the marzpan took an edict on behalf of Smbat IX: Gayladzor valley gate X: Aruch gate a cliff over the river, its unbroken walls decorated pull of the invader’s culture was to Armenia, no Shah’n’Shah to Michael, Emperor of the XI + XII: postern gates. with sculptured arches, doubled columns and matter how many were pulled to renounce their Greeks, at Constantinople, and with great XIII: Sarkis Silenkh gate XIV: Dvin Gate stone tracery of birds and flowers. Inside, 700 faith and join the cause of the Greeks effort and expense bought a fragment of the XV: King Ashot gate year old frescoes cover the nave, apse, the (Byzantines), Arabs or Seljuks, the ultimate Holy Cross, and when I returned, completed XVI: Tsaghkotsadzor valley gate ceilings and all the walls with scenes from the destination for the people who worshipped here this temple..."

Map source: "Ani - a History of the City and its Excavations" by Bible and accompanying legends in Greek. was with their God, a distinctly Armenian one at The church, like the fragment of the True Cross, Nikolai Marr, Leningrad and Moscow, 1934. that. was the embodiment of the divine on earth. It The apse is to the east end of the nave, a trend had 8 apses, the 8th and largest apse started by Armenians and said to be based on symbolizing the day after the resurrection and The archeologist Joseph Strzygowski, in 1918, Pagan Sun worship. Above the nave, on four end of earth, the day of reckoning, the Day of put forth the view that it was the Armenians who columns rests the dome, lit by a circle of windows Judgment, which was to be on the 8th day in first solved the problem of putting a dome over a that throws light onto the small arches spanning metaphysical terms. The 7 subservient apses square space. There are two ways: first, by the the corners of the square. It is a perfect example represent the 7 days or times of life leading the use of the squinche—a triangular-shaped section of the pendentive. judgment, the number 7 believed to the of a dome which fills up the comer of the square completion of a cycle, just as it ends the days of and so transforms it into a circle; second, by the Nearby, in the Great Cathedral, started in the pendentive—a small arch spanning the corner of a week. year 989 in the reign of King Smbat II (977-89) the square, and so converting it into an octagon, and completed in the year 1001 (or 1010) by There are three altars, the large central one and onto which the circular base of the dome could be order of Queen Katraniteh (Catherine), the wife two mall embedded into the walls on either side. conveniently fitted. of King Gagik Bagratuni, Smbat's successor, The church is circular, the walls made into a 19 there is more evidence of a different kind: the faceted polygon. The number 19 represented presence in the cathedral of the pointed arches two sacred concepts of the time, borrowed from and clustered piers considered to be one of the classical ideas: 1 for the Base, the beginning, the hallmarks of Western Gothic architecture. be all and in all of the 1 God, and 9, the most sacred of numbers a product of the multiplication The design of the cathedral is on a cruciform of the number 3,m which represented the Holy plan, with a dome over the central crossing, and Trinity. For more details, see TourArmenia’s a triple-apse eastern end. The dome is supported Sacred Geometry section by four massive piers of coupled pillars with plain (www.tacentral.com/architecture.asp?story_no=2 capitals and spanned by bold pointed arches. At The design of the church, its decoration and ). either end of the building stand four similar piers, symbolism, can be read as biblical lessons for an a pair at the entrance and one on each side of the illiterate class and at the same time a glorification The drum of the dome is unusual for it being apse—all "Gothic" features designed by the of the ruling power. It can also be seen as an act completely circular and not octagonal as was the Armenian architect, T'rdat (who also designed the of defiance, distinctly Armenian, an architectural custom. It is quite tall and quite wide, capped present dome of the Santa Sophia in Istanbul) in statement of independence from the opulent internally with a cupola. There are faint frescoes 989-1001, more than 100 years before the style (decadent) design in Byzantium, which had from a later age (13th c) attributed to Sarkis made its first appearance in Western Europe. abandoned its iconoclastic struggle and once Parchkans, and showing a penchant for Byzantine again reveled in the representation of Christ and style, betraying the structure’s earlier resistance Another is the Church of the Redeemer the saints in icons and frescos that covered their to Greek Orthodoxy. The faint paintwork is still (Amnaprkitch - completed around the year 1035) churches, something the more ascetic Armenian beautiful and was later white washed, which leads The pendentive found great favor throughout the walls covered with inscriptions showing much religious orders recoiled from. some to believe the church may have been used Europe and Asia. When the possibility of placing a of its history. And it is in the this church’s history as a mosque in its later Persian/Turkish periods. dome over a square had been realized, a variety that the structure of the Bagratuni Armenian Armenia built structures to God, their decoration of alternative elaborations became possible to society can be understood. For us, much of the was no doubt more richly endowed than the On the west side is the Church of Saint architects. The square, for instance, could be fascination (some might say fixation) of the ruling stripped down versions we see today, but they Gregory (s. Grigor - 10th c), commissioned by extended in one or more of four directions, class and Armenian society on churches and were far removed from the worship of icons the Prince Grigor Pahlavuni as a private chapel for permitting a plan of much greater interest and religion, can seem obscure and remote. But in Armenians preached against. God was the word; the Pahlavuni family. significance than a mere rectangle, and leading at the word was made real on earth in the vision of

Shirak Marz: page 21 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide as the Bagratuni kings, patronizing several steep cliffs, the citadel was encircled by a single religious orders and monasteries in Ani and line of ramparts. This wall had towers on its north Armenia. The earliest extant inscription is dated side, and a gateway at its NW corner. 1031, concerning the donation of land by a certain Abughamir Pahlavuni, who also According to tradition a pagan temple dedicated commissioned (No. 53) S. Grigor Abughamir to the goddess Anahit stood here, the temple church nearby. destroyed by Saint Gregory the Illuminator, who then erected a church on the site. Nothing has The church has four apses in a cross form, with been found to substantiate this, but it makes a four chapels in its rectangle shell. A feature of good story. At the very edge of the cliff stands a churches from the 7th c., the four-apse (inscribed ruined church, the Kizkaleh, probably built during quatrefoil) design in this case has details unique the first 15 years of the thirteenth century. to the 11th c.; the entry portals (in this case north and south) have doorways with monumental The Citadel Church is located at the eastern edge lintels adorned with a sculpted frieze of acanthus of the palace within the citadel. Its only intact leaves and rows of dentils. The dome wall is the north wall, a part of a 13th century construction used an innovative method of renovation that added a second story. The distributing weight and was lighted by the use of church is dated to the 7th c, though the specific hollow clay “vessels” built into the structure. Like decorative elements: capitals with acanthus earlier churches its slate roof was decorated with leaves, fretwork patterned cornice, and other pomegranate motifs. Also unique was the elements typical of early Christian art suggest 6th

attention to detail in the four corner chapels, century. The hall (5.85 by 9.4 m) is divided by each with is own apse and a dome and drum, two pairs of wall piers and flying arches. highly unusual for the time and perhaps a precursor of other structures that followed. The southernmost tip of the city, nearly surrounded by the Arpa/Akhurian Rivers is The remarkable King Gagik’s Church of St. perhaps its oldest point, a magnificent defensive Gregory (S. Grigor Gagiki) is based on the great perch for millennia of settlers. The fortifications cathedral at Zvartnots, the so-called “Millennium and relatively well preserved buildings suggest Church of Ani, mentioned in the chronicles of this might be amongst the last parts of the city to Stepanos of Taron: be abandoned. The site is called "Kizkale" in Turkish or "Gusanats" in Armenian (Maiden's or "It was in this time, the end of the 1000th year nun's) point. of Our Lord's incarnation, in the time of Emperor Basil, when Gagik, King of Armenia, received the notion of erecting in the city of Ani a church like in size and form to the great church at Vagharshapat, dedicated to St. Gregory, then in ruins." - Stephanos Asoghik of Taron

It is thought that King Gagik (r. 990 to 1020) chose the architect T’rdat (who designed the Cathedral of Ani) to build his "millennium" church, and it was probably erected between the years 1001 and 1005 (some books say between 990 and 1000). T’rdat's design for the church was a circular gallery around a four-apse central building with rounded walls, which closely The Arakelots (Holy Apostles) church exact resembled the fallen Zvartnots masterpiece. history is unknown, no founding inscription However, like its original, the structure was never

very stable, and despite attempts to strengthen having been discovered on the building. It is believed to have been built for archbishops from the building, it soon collapsed. Later houses were At the southern end of the city the flat top of a the Pahlavuni princely family, who commissioned built over the structure, some using the masonry, promontory was once a separate fortified The site has never been excavated, though its construction. The Pahlavunis, related to both and it was forgotten until the 1906 excavation enclosure. This part of Ani is known as the according to tradition a temple to the Armenian the Bagratunis and the old Kamsarakan nakharar uncovered the foundations. "Inner Fortress" (Mijnaberd), or simply the goddess Anahit once stood here, destroyed by S. dynasty, were a powerful allies and almost as rich "citadel". Though protected on three sides with Grigor Lusavorich during the Pagan Wars.

Shirak Marz: page 22 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide Serious excavation may prove this a myth or example of the earliest form of church suggest its construction in the 4th-5th c. The The roofing is completely destroyed and there is reality. The point is very difficult to get to now, construction in Armenia, the three-aisle Basilica basilica was built on a six-step stylobate (raised some debate as to what kind it was. Some say it the once carefully laid stone sacred path strewn or hall church. floor, typically made with uneven steps to reach was a massive wooden beam structure, later with rubble and boulders falling from earthquakes the foundation floor) with an east-west covered with stone or ceramic tile, the beams When King T’rdat and Gregory the Illuminator and war. orientation. The number of steps confirm its supported by protruding arches on the side walls. built churches on the site of Pagan temples they pagan origins; pre-Christian temples were always Others think that the entire church was stone destroyed, They transformed the most important Perched over the river are the ruins of a church, placed on 6 or 7 step stylobates, borrowed form covered, and point to the western rooms, much worship places for a thousand years into new Astvatsatsin, part of a nunnery (S. Grigor?) the Greeks (stylobates were temple foundation larger than the eastern, the roofs for which seem Christian religious centers. The basilica is a from the 12-13th c. An inscription on the walls of platforms), the number divisible by three. Three to have been paved with stones. It is probable direct descendant of these first conversions, most the church (damaged in the 1988 earthquake and itself was considered one of the holiest numbers that the church, like most old structures, was built directly on the original foundations, some attributed to Shah’n’shah Zakarian, related to the in sacred geometry, the three standing for the renovated and added to over time, using the using the same walls as the pre-Christian temple. Georgian Bagratid dynasty and governor of Ani trinity deities of all western Pagan faiths, usurped latest (or most available) engineering and This is the basilica (or Hall Church) which can 1198-1999) reads: by the Christians in the Holy trinity. Its long materials on hand, its harmonious appearance is have single or triple naves in Armenia. The new spacious hall is divided into three aisles by three considered an architectural feat , its complicated "During the reign of the Queen of queens churches copied the form of the older temple, pairs of cross pylons. design and number of renovations. Tamar, anointed by God and devout, I, and the earliest still show the Hellenistic

Shah’n’shah Zakarian amirspasalar influences of patterning on the capitals, frescos The basilica is striking, its three entries (west and (governor), her faithful servant, son of the and placing the temple on a stylobate. The main south) with pediments adorned with exquisitely great Sarkis M’kharg’rtseli, doing God’s difference was moving the altar from West to ornamented tympanum and column capitals bidding, created this monument ... in this East (unique to Armenian church construction). carved with leaf designs. The windows are monastery, near the church built by our Use of triple nave basilica is uniquely Armenian, surrounded by moldings that curl away from each Illuminator, Saint Grigor." its forebears Urartian palaces and temples more other at their bases. The pilaster capitals and than 1000 years in use before the Christian era. bases and entryway architraves are decorated with geometric patterns; six-petal rosettes and Greek crosses in a circle. The detailing and composition of portals became a feature of future churches. There are some fragmentary remains of frescoes, the earliest is dated 1038. The church is built in such a way that to reach the floor of the basilica, you have to descend several steps, the actual floor being lower than the top of the stylobate. Thus (using our sacred geometry) you ascend up to the temple of God, only to then descend (or bow) in his presence, a symbolic form of prostration.

About 200 m SE of the basilica 1958 excavations The church measures 11.5 x 26.6 m and the uncovered a 4th-5th c dam and small reservoir, central nave is 3 times wider than the side naves, which captured waters from a stream connected

an engineering feat for its time. It rose above to the Akhurian. The dam, 120 m long and 4 m Yereruik is an example of this direct use of the the side aisle roofs and seems to have had a thick at its widest point, was made of stone, with Pre-Christian temple, a triple nave basilica built wooden ceiling. The Apsidioles (small or support arches every 5-6 m and double-thick in The Menukhir Mosque (1072?) built at the very directly on top of the original pagan temple, on a secondary apses) protrude far out and are linked the center, clapped with polished stone. Nearby edge of the ravine overlooking the Akhurian River raised stylobate, with numerous frescos, now in by arched galleries at the northern and southern is a cave dwelling complex, as are the ruins of is said to have been founded by the emir fragments. façades. In what became a commonplace in later the medieval village and a small chapel. An early Menukhir, the first of the Shaddadid dynasty to Armenian church structures, there are four Iron Age grave field lies in the valley just E of the rule Ani beginning ca. 1072. Excavations (Nicholas Marr, Toros Toromanian) chapels embedded in the corners of the building. basilica. showed extensive renovation of the church, This is in keeping with both Greek temple designs Â Go back to the Highway at Ani Station, then S including 5th-6th c addition of the North and which placed antechambers in the corners and Camping and food may be had at the village, about 5 km to ANI PEMZA (40.4486111x South arcades and western antechambers and with the legend of Grigor Lusavorich’s visions, but border guards may forbid. 43.6041667) Æ 4 10th c renovation of the main altar, which which described the corners of the universe in includes an inscription stone in the lower North God’s plan. At Yereruik all four are two-story, Â END OF TRIP 2 wall of the main apse that says it was a ² ANI PEMZA /YERERUIK - ²ÜÆäºØ¼² with the eastern pair behind the side apses testimonial stone to S. Karapet. (elev. 4616, pop. 5067) Known for its pink and looking towards North and the western larger pair ² ² ² ² ² honey-colored Ani tuff, the area is also home to looking north and west, and south and west. Its form (basilica) and architectural details the Basilica of Yereruik is located just a few km from the border of Turkey. It is an important (geometric patterns, early fresco fragments)

TRIP 3: ARPI LICH Â Continue N on the highway about 5 km (and GIUMRI – MARMASHEN – (Kaps) - (Jradzor) through the Arpi Chai / Akurian River gorge) to - HOGHMIK – (Amassia) – (Berdashen) – the R (E) turnoff to Jradzor. Follow that about 1 PAGHAKN - ARPI LICH – (Ardenis) – km into the village of (Jradzor, DD 40.915x ZORAKERT – TSAGHKUT – SHAGHIK 43.7719444) 4 + O

Stay: Overnight in Giumri, village home if you SIDE TRIP: (Jradzor - æñ³Óáñ (elev. 532m, don’t mind the rustic amenities. pop. 1811) has a rebuilt 19th c. church, and Eat: Amassia, roadside stands on the Georgian about 2 km SE on he hills across the river are Highway, village home. the ruins of a cyclopean fort (Iron Age - Urartu). NOTE: There are natural gas stations once you leave Giumri, and petrol stations may be scarce Jradzor is also the location of a planned or nonexistent. Past Amassia, there is nothing, hydroelectric power plant, which, if built, will Stock up before you leave. destroy one of Shirak’s most important archeological sites, a Bronze/Iron Age This day trip takes you up to Amassia, Armenia’s settlement on the road to Hoghmik. Alpine (some say Siberia) district. Visitors are often overwhelmed with the hospitality of these Camping in area; Overnight in village home remote villages, whose rough climate imparts a is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); special goodness to the wild honey, home- Springs in the area. churned butter, yogurt and fresh food found in every household. Â Continue E on the dirt and gravel road about 3 km to a crest on road overlooking a field leading Â Take the N Highway towards Georgia and just to the gorge. Look for piles of rocks on the right north of town, and then turn left (NW) on (S) and for a small mountain river that cuts Amassia highway (which skirts past the new through the opposite mountain in a rocky crest housing blocks and quickly peters into a potted into the river. This is the 3000 – 1000 BCE road) and continue for about 8 km (and past the archeological site at HOGHMIK 4 O village of Marmashen) into the village of Vaghamaberd. Continue for another 500 ² HOGHMIK EXCAVATION – ÐàÔØÆÎÆ meters or so the left turnoff to the berd äºÔàôØÜºð is on a plateau on the north (signposted). bank of the Chaiyir river and is found by walking

(carefully) past he low piles of stones towards the ² MARMASHEN (Vahramaberd) Ø³ñÙ³ß»Ý rim of the gorge. Hidden by grass and /ì³Ññ³Ù³μ»ñ¹/ wildflowers from a distance, the settlement quickly becomes apparent as you reach it, as one For detailed description see NEAR GIUMRI : foundation after another unfolds itself before you. MARMASHEN (p. 7) The site consists of a large Hellenistic Settlement Â Backtrack to the Amassia Highway and from the 3rd-2nd cc BE, which in turn lie over continue N about 1 km to (Kaps DD 40.8666667 Iron and Bronze Age layers. The settlement had x 43.7166667) 4 + O grown by the Hellenistic (early Arshakuni) period into a substantial settlement, as the excavated SIDE TRIP: (Kaps – Î³åë, elev. 521m, pop. foundations show: streets, houses and public 145) is a forlorn village whose best feature is buildings are outlined in rock, stretching from just buildings as it runs to the river gorge. More its summer jambar (camp) for children, located below the road to the edge of the gorge. importantly, the site lies over much earlier levels Camping in area; Springs in the area. in the river gorge to the W. When working and of settlement, stretching at least to the mid not full the map can accommodate visitors and Remarkably the settlement’s only source of water Bronze Age (3000 BCE) when the entire region Â Backtrack to Jradzor and turn right (N) on the can be a decent place to crash if you are stuck for its 500+ citizens was the rive itself, which is a was lush and humid, warmed by the still active Amassia Highway and continue about 5.5 km to in the area. 100 m descent into the river gorge. As you walk volcanic cones surrounding the area. There are around the site you can begin to detect the (Amassia, DD 40.9466667x 43.7813889) Æ 4 Bronze Age and medieval burial grounds as well, Camping in area; Overnight in village home numerous buildings some of their functions: + O some of which appear as slight humps on the is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); palaces and dining halls still have a few of the horizon. Springs in the area. column bases, and the streets meander between

Shirak Marz: page 24 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide Camping in area; Overnight in village home More than 100 species of birds have been SIDE TRIP: (Amassia - ²Ø²êÆ² elev. The Village Of “Benzine Ch’ka” 1864m, pop. 969) is a very sad and very poor is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); observed around Lake Arpi. Among the water

place, stuck in on of the worst agricultural Springs in the area. birds there are little grebe (Tachybaptus Who woulda thunk? After leaving Amassia areas in Armenia, too cold to grow crops that ruficollis), white stork (Ciconia ciconia), common with high hopes of running the old border reap better incomes and too poor to move on. Â From Amassia take the Northern road towards teal (Anas crecca), mallard (A. platyrhynchos), along the Arpa Chai and cruising along the Arpi Lich and continue about 16.3 km past common pochard (Aythia ferina), tufted duck (A. high mountain meadows and rocky crevices Inside the village there is a square surrounding (Berdashen) or, “the village of no petrol,” to fuligula), ruddy shelduck (Tadorna ferruginea), to Armenia’s Siberia, Ashot looked over and a wilting park with hammer and sickle the Ardenis/Arpi Lich intersection. Take the left kentish plover (Charadrius alexandrinus), casually asked, “are there any petrol stops emblems on the gates and a modern khachkar turn in front of the low lying industrial building common snipe (Gallinago gallinago), great snipe around here?” and go another 1.8 km up hill to the dam at (G. media), Armenian gull (Larus armenicus), to some veteran or cause, the old government buildings (now closed) and a dilapidated little tern (Sterna albifrons). Endangered PAGHAKN (DD 41.0536111x 43.6688889) 4 A question I might well expect him to have hotel and defunct restaurant, neither of waterfowl (Red Data Book) occuring "rather + O the answer to, he was the driver. We stared which has worked in ages. What makes up frequently" includes dalmatian pelekan blankly at each other, then broke out in this is friendliness of local villagers, who will (Pelekanus crispus), black stork (Ciconia nigra), ² PAGHAKN - ä²Ô²ÎÜ (till recently laughter. Woo hoo! We were in it now! bend over backwards to make your stay as common shelduck (Tadorna tadorna) and Shurabad, elev. 2010m, pop. 50), is the gateway Driving blind into territory no one knew comfortable as it might be, opening the closed common crane (Grus grus). Of special concern is to Arpi Lich reservoir, and Armenia’s Alpine anything about (at least in our car), except hotel and pulling out furniture and supplies the large breeding colony of Armenian Gull (Larus country. It has the ruins of an old church and a) it was cold outside, b) it was called from other rooms to make one or two at least armenicus); 7,000-10,000 pairs are known to cyclopean fort. Armenia’s Siberia, and c) it was cold outside. passable for an overnight. In the end it will be breed on the two islands, comprising 60% of the

one step above camping out, but if you are population in Armenia. The lake is one of two The small villages of Ashotsk, such as Berdashen, We cruised into Berdashen, off the spine of stuck on the road, these folks will do what they lakes in Armenia (the other is rarely Sevan) that Paghakn, Pokr Sariar, Ghazanchi and Ghakavasar the Shirak mountains onto an alpine plateau, can to try and make your stay at least hosts migrating Pelicans (Pelecanus crispus), (formerly known as Kefli, or Joyous) perched on the dark churning waters of Arpi Lich off it eh bearable, their friendliness and warmth is breeding every 2-5 years, juveniles visiting the sides of hills and surrounded by miles of distance. Ashot stopped at the first farm endearing. Everything negotiated in this annually. wildflower meadows are some of Armenia's house to buy a couple o liters of petrol, poverty-stricken area. prettiest places. The villages are generally enough to get us to civilization. Ashot had

friendly, though they may be surprised to see two Fanta bottles just for that purpose (good someone in so remote a place. A drive around ole Fanta). the lake shows its wild beauty from many angles. “Brother, there is no petrol here.” What do Camping in area; Overnight in village home is you mean? A look like we should have been possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); born under a luckier star or with a brighter Springs in the area. set of parents, then, “What I mean is there is no petrol. None. If anyone gets any, they Â ARPI (ARPA) LICH - ²ðöÆ (²ðö²) ÈÆÖ keep it locked up. Petrol trucks come by one begins between Berdashen and Paghakn. The every two weeks.” -But we’ll buy it. “Don’t drive around the reservoir to its farthest side is matter. We don’t need your money; we about 28 km, where it dead ends 4 + O need you to bring back the petrol!”

Went to 10 houses, everyone the same. If ² ARPI LICH - ²ðöÆÈÆÖ situated at an we would be willing to replace what we took altitude of 2023 m and is located in the very they would gladly lend us some. Didn’t want north-west of Armenia, evolved in the 1950s from our money. Just wanted petrol! It was 35 the small Lake Arpi. Fed by thaws and four km to the Georgian Highway and the first There is a mterk on the corner of the hotel streams, the 3,193 hectare lake is the source of Flora include Iris lineolata, I. Caucasica, reliable supply of petrol. Going and coming building, a post office with Armentel office the Akhurian River. The landscape is mountain Merendera mirzoeval, Colchicum Szoritsii, Gagea back—not an option at sunset. (phone calls) and some commission steppe with mostly grassy alpine vegetation. The ssp., Puschkinia scilloides, Draba ssp.,

shops/kiosks off the S end of the Square, site is adjacent to wetlands. In spring the Lallemautia caneseeus, Ranunculus ssp., Myosotis By driving the speed limit, coasting, and a lot where an Apoteka and other small shops can reservoir floods an area of 20 sq km and two alpestris, Pedicularis ssp., Trifolium ssp., of prayers to the oily angel in the sky, we be found. To the N of the square is the islands. By autumn, when the lake waters are Gladiolus kotschyanus, Silene ssp. Endangered made it to Ardenis, where the petrol truck hospital, emergencies only. used for irrigation, the shores of the two islands species (Red Book of Armenia) include Iris does make an appearance, and bought our merge. The second wetland are in Armenia to be sibirica, Gladiolus imbricatus, Traunsteinera cherished two liters of gas. Petrol never NW of the village in the high mountains (no covered by the Ramsar Treaty on Wetlands sphaerica, Seilla rosenii grow in the surroundings. smelled so good. road) are the ruins of the “Chatin Dara” (Resources, p. 33), the lake basin is about to A number of flower species (including yellow

fortress. become a National Park, supported by the water lily (Nuphar luteum), bogbean (Menyanthes Advice to intrepid travelers on the road to German government. frifoliata) and flowering rush (Butomus adventure: Remember thy canister! umbellatus) were lost when Lake Arpi was converted into a reservoir.

Shirak Marz: page 25 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide Â From Paghakn, take the road N about 4 km to ZORAKERT (DD 41.0927778x 43.6597222) 4 Conservation issues The lake is over-fished and + O birds are seen as competition to fishermen. Like in other rural areas, farmers and villagers still ² ZORAKERT - ¼àð²Îºðî (formerly feel the land is expendable, the lake will live Balikhli, elev. 2101m, pop. 778) has the ruins of forever. Though not as threatened as Lori or a fort a little NE. Siunik with their strip mining operations and clear cut operations, Amassia is still a fragile eco- On a rutted road N from Zorakert about 5 km system that needs preserving with the support of from Zorakert, near the border with Georgia, is local populations. Eco tourism is a way to situated the small hamlet of Darik, with an demonstrate income from preserving and care organic farm producing some of the best dairy taking. The bird colony is extremely vulnerable products in the country. due to annual water-level fluctuations of the reservoir. Birds are sometimes subject to Camping in area; Overnight in village home is disturbance when fluctuating water-levels allow possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); access to nesting areas. Springs in the area.

Camping around the lake, overnight in village Â Continue on the road W around the reservoir home (5000 AMD), village food (dairy). about 4 km to TZAGHKUT (DD 41.0975x

Â From Paghakn, take the side road E about 5 43.6163889) 4 + O km to the Side Trip (Ardenis, DD 41.0786111x 43.7238889) 4 + O ² TZAGHKUT - Ì²ÔÎàôî (once Gyullija, elev. 2047m, pop. 745), has a medieval fortress about 2 km E of town. SIDE TRIP: (Ardenis - ²ñ¹»ÝÇë, elev. 2004m,

pop. 516) (formerly Gyollu) is E of Paghakn in Camping in area; Overnight in village home is the foothills of Mt. Yeznasar, once inhabited by possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Azeris who left before the crisis with Azerbaijan Springs in the area. flared up in 1988. As they left, many

destroyed their homes, the remains of which Â Continue on the road S around the reservoir still stand as sentinels to their existence. They about 4 km to Garnarich, then another 4 km to were replaced with refugees from Karabakh who have built new homes in the same village. SHAGHIK (DD 41.0477778x 43.5855556) 4 Just outside the village, on its E end is a large + O Azei cemetery with tombstones, some of which have been pushed down or broken, but many ² SHAGHIK - Þ²ÔÆÎ (till 1991 Karabulagh, of which still stand. Look for the ones with elev. 2010m, pop. 835) is at the end of the road. pistols, rifles, knives and swords carved on Gorgeous vistas and rolling grass with hints of them. These are memorials to soldiers from the riots of colors that come every spring. No the early 20th c and WWII. The stones are monuments, nothing to study or stare at except inscribed using Russian script, as the Azeris the endless waves of water, grass and the were forbidden to use their own script by the everlasting sky. Want more? soviets. Though in Russian Cyrillic, the words are still Azeri. Camping in area; Overnight in village home is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); The road is an alternate route to the Georgian Springs in the area. highway and the border at Bavra. It is 24 km of bone-crunching dirt road and potted asphalt, Â END OF TRIP 3 about one hour of your life to the other side.

Camping in area; Overnight in village home ² ² ² ² ² is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Springs in the area.

Shirak Marz: page 26 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide interesting. About 2 km NW in a crevice of TRIP 4: ASHOTSK, TO GEORGIA some hills is another Bronze Age site. GIUMRI - - MAIYISSIAN – (Keti) - LERNANTSK PASS – (Arpeni) – (Torosgiugh) - Camping in area; Overnight in village home (Goghovit) - TSOGHAMARK – is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Springs in the area.

RIGHT ROUTE: (Vardaghpiur) – (Musaiyelian) - (Salut, Bashgiugh) – (Pokr Sariar) – (Kakavasar) – DZORASHEN -

LEFT ROUTE: (Ashotsk) – (Mets Sepasar) – GHAZANCHI – (Sizavet) – (Bavra: Akhalkalaki & Akhaltsikhe)

Stay: Overnight in Giumri, village home if you don’t mind the rustic amenities. Eat: Road side stands, Ashotsk, Bavra.

Day Trip 4 explores Northern Shirak, a land of contrasts with teeming forests, rugged mountains and dry ridges. The day trip follows the highway to Georgia, forking off on the Tashir / Stepanavan highway mid way, then returns and continues to the Georgian border, where a pitted road goes on to the impoverished Armenian districts of Akhalkalaki and Akhaltsikhe.

Â Take the Northern Highway out of Giumri towards Georgia for about 10 km to MAIYISSIAN (DD 40.8530556x 43.8294444) 4 + O Â About 3 km N on the highway, immediately ² MAIYISSIAN - Ø²ÚÆêÚ²Ü (till 1946 past Pokrashen, is the LERNANTSK PASS 4 Ortakilisa, elev. 1635m, pop. 3849), is named for O the May 1920 Bolshevik attempt to seize power in Armenia. In the village is the 7th c. S. ² LERNANTSK PASS - ÈºèÜ²Üòø The Astvatsatsin church made from red and black pass crosses between the foothills of Mts. tuff, with inscriptions. Chatalsar and Maralsar, with stunning views of the Giumri and Tsoghamark Valleys. Great place Camping in the area; Overnight at the hamlet for a pit stop and a view. (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Springs in the area. Camping in area; Springs in the area.

Â Continue N on the Highway about 5 km to Â Continue N about 2.6 km to the right (E) (KETI, DD 40.9x 43.8833333) 4 + O turnoff to (Arpeni – DD 40.9166667 x 43.8833333) 4 + O SIDE TRIP: (Keti - øºÂÆ “Joyous,” elev. 2031m, pop. 2760) boasts two Bronze Age SIDE TRIP: (Arpeni – ²ñ÷»ÝÇ elev. 593m, settlements on its nearby hills (requires pop. 700) On the highway at the turn off is a hiking), one NE of town, the other, larger on Jasharan (Food joint), with cheap eats and the hill SE. Relics uncovered during the good views. excavation are kept at the Shirak Regional Museum in Giumri (unfortunately closed because of lack of facilities). The village also has a shrine and a church, neither very

Shirak Marz: page 27 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide Camping in the area; Overnight at the elements. The rest of the roof protects an the central portion which cascaded downhill hamlet (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); ethnographic dream and one of Armenia’s true during the earthquake. Springs in the area. historical treasures: an original wooden beam Sisak, Misak, Apetnak and Shoghakat ceiling with earthen roof with massive wooden The real find is in the tiny matur (chapel), just These things always begin with local legends and Â Continue N on the highway another 1 km to a support columns and carved capitals. 100m uphill (NE) from the church, which the myths, and they are usually based in some kind of bridge and the southern edge of (Torosgiugh villagers have paid special attention to preserving truth. Sisak, Misak & Apetnak may be derivatives DD 40.935 x 43.8775) 4 + O without really knowing what is inside. The tiny of Sumerian or Egyptian mythological beings pink stucco building, built in 1969 by a certain Shishak, Mishak and Apetnakh, which would put SIDE TRIP: (Torosgiugh – Âáñáë·ÛáõÕ elev. Andranik Seroyian protects a holy spot the them into pretty old company (and deepen 604m, pop. 1235) sits above the Chaiyir River villagers have worshipped at throughout their Armenia’s history). The names are not Armenian in an idyllic spot below plunging alpine collective memories, the women of the village in origin, and seem not to be Indo-European, mountains. At the bridge is a restaurant placing matagh (sacrifice) offerings at the site making these four souls in this chapel people of (2000-3000 AMD) and jambar (summer camp even before the chapel was erected over the site. foreign coinage, and important too, considering for kids) which, when working will be glad to But its real purpose as the location of early their place of honor.

put up tourists in available rooms (2000-3000 Bronze/Iron Age graves makes it one of The myth that we heard (from a lively village elder AMD includes three meals). Armenia’s real treasures. named Rafi, who also recounted the history of the

Turkish invasion of 1920, when locals were Camping in area; Overnight in village home rounded up and killed in the hills above the is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); chapel) was one handed down to him by his Springs in the area. mother, who said the four people were holy, and the villagers always worshipped at the site, Â Continue N on the Highway about 13 km to a though they did not know exactly who was side road and then W about 3 km to (Goghovit) The massive wooden beams the support the cross underneath them. 4 + O beams still survive, though about 40% of the top tier beamed roof has collapsed, but enough One day, one of the villagers, in a rage, struck one of the stone covers, breaking it into four SIDE TRIP: (Goghovit - ¶á·ÑáíÇï - till remains to show how 16th-19th c churches were pieces, shouting, “There is nothing sacred here. If 603m Taknalu, pop. 377) is on the road above roofed, and just how closely church design was tied to domestic house construction, and in this these are holy, then let God punish me!” He then the Chaiyir Rive, all along which is great for went home and promptly died that night. The case, how closely tied it was to much more camping and hiking. The village has a ruined villagers then understood this was indeed a ancient buildings that have been excavated from 1860 church and some good local produce.. sacred spot (or one to fear) and ever since have the Iron Age, venerated the site. The current chapel was built Camping in the area; Overnight at the Compare this roofing design with that at the in 1969, and its concrete floor and metal roof hamlet (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Erebuni museum, and the similarities are protect the graves, both for the believers in the Springs in the area. remarkable. The massive wood beams were Calling the site the graves for three brothers and village and for future archeological research. shipped in from East Armenia, from the pine a sister: Sisak, Misak, Abednak & Shoghakat forests of Sari Ghamish, a forest that still supplies the thick stone slabs inside the tiny building cover Â Backtrack to the highway and turn left (N), wood to Eastern Turkey. Some of the beams are graves of people no one in the village has any continuing about 2.5 km to the left turn off (then more than 20m long and 500 centimeters tin memory of, only a collective memory handed 500 m) to TSOGHAMARK (DD 40.95023 x diameter. Sari Ghamish also supplied much of down from generation to generation. The four the wood used to build the houses in Old Giumri. 43.85722 4 + O graves are thought to date between the 4th and

1st millennium BCE. If the earlier date is correct, The effect is both haunting and enchanting, its the sarcophagi would predate any of its type in ² TSOGHAMARG – òàÔ²Ø²ð¶ (elev. primitive design and extraordinarily well Armenia and be one of the oldest in the world. It 2003m, pop. 1875) on first glance looks like any preserved origins vying with the elements for shows a sophisticated relationship between of a number of small villages in Armenia, set dominance, the elements slowly winning. During people and the after world and their attempt so against a backdrop of some cliffs (which hold the WWII the church was converted into a warehouse preserve the memory of the dead using coffin like remains of a cyclopean fortress, mostly ruined and it has never recovered from that experience, structures. Interesting to note that the old during the 1988 earthquake) and a meandering the villagers begging their poverty for not Armenian names seem to be related from older layout of village homes and well-kept gardens. preserving or fixing the church. Just as well, as civilizations in the region, specifically Sumeria The 18th-19th c church is set up above the the extraordinary finds inside require some real and Egypt. Sisak, Misak and Apetnak appear to village at the end of the right fork from the expertise in preserving this architectural jewel. be variants of gods in the Sumerian (4th highway. millennium BCE) mythology, appearing later as "If we are thrown into the blazing furnace, the

A Bronze-Iron Age fortress lies above the Babylonian followers of Daniel in the bible (as God we serve is able to save us from it, and he The jewels for the village begins inside this church on the rim of the hills, a 30m hike up Shadrach (Shishak), Meshach (Mishak) and will rescue us from your hand, O king. And if simple black and red tufa triple-nave basilica. rocky terrain. You can detect a few of the red Abednego (Abednak/Apetnak): not, we want you to know, O king, that we will The roof is tinned over at one time with its rocks above the rim, and view the destruction of western end collapsed an exposed to the

Shirak Marz: page 28 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide not serve your gods or worship the image of He village is also renowned (perhaps more so) for 43.9333333) and another 3 km to (Bashgiugh, gold you have set up." being the birthplace for a number of Giumri’s DD 40.95x 43.9666667) 4 + O Hiking The area has fantastic hiking and climbing police chiefs, and one hopes their power will possibilities, with trails following stream beds N They are later appointed as administrators of extend to preserving both the 18th c church and SIDE TRIP: (Salut - ê³Éáõï - once Skiut, and E. Pother than climbing the steep hills and Babylon by the Assyrian king. Sisak/Shishak is to uncovering the mystery of the 4 BCE brothers 2179m. pop. 1716) and (Bashgiugh - cliffs, you can wend your way to Lori Marz by also listed as the biblical name for Thutmoses III, and a sister. following the Chickan River to Nalband (13 km) ´³ß·ÛáõÕ, elev. 6784, pop. 4112) are perched the Egyptian Pharaoh who invaded Israel in 925 or following the mountain road (4x4 or on foot) to on rivers, Salut on a fork of the Ashotsk and BCE (specifically, the Shishak Relief depicts the Camping in the area; Overnight at the hamlet Saralandj and Lori Marz in about 7 km. Bashgiugh on the Chichkan. Bashgiugh has a Egyptian pharaoh Shishak's military victory over (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Springs in the church in the village. King Rehoboam ca. 925 BCE, when Solomon's area. Camping in the area; Overnight at the hamlet temple in Judah was plundered). Another (3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Springs in the area. Camping in area; Overnight in village home reference is given to one of the ancestor kings Â Backtrack to the highway and continue N for is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); (patriarchs) of the Armenians in the Ararat about 5 km to where the highway forks N to (The road continues to Saralanj and Lori Marz). Springs in the area. region, known by the Assyrians as "Tilgarimmu" Georgia or NE toward Tashir and Stepanavan on

- the biblical Thogarma. In the History of the a bad road. Â Continue S on the road about 5 km to (Pokr Armenians by the medieval historian Movses Â Backtrack to Kakavasar, then backtrack to Sariar, DD 40.9258333x 44.0186111) then Khorenatsi, the fifth king in succession, beginning RIGHT ROUTE: Vardaghpiur. another 2 km to (Kakavasar) 4 + O from Haik, is King Gegham, Sisak (1908-1858 Take the NE fork and in another kilometer is

BCE) LEFT ROUTE: (Vardaghpiur, DD 40.95x 43.9166667) 4 O SIDE TRIP: (Pokr Sariar - äáùñ ê³ñÇ³ñ, Take the Highway N towards Georgia, about 10 elev. 2014m, pop. 1154) and (Kakavasar - Shoghakat is the name of a maiden allied with km (via Karmravan) to (Ashotsk DD 41.0375x the story of Hripsime and Guyaneh, whose deaths SIDE TRIP: (Vardaghpiur - ì²ð¸²Ô´Úàôð Î³ù³í³ë³ñ) lie along a twisting mountain 43.8580556) Æ + precipitated King T’rdat’s descent into madness before Giullibulagh or “Rose spring,” elev. road on the Chichkan river. It has a 19th c. and the conversion of the Armenian court to 2024m, pop. 2373) is on a rolling set of hills, church, but the views as you go up the foothills SIDE TRIP: (Ashotsk - (till 1938 Christianity, but whose real origins are obscure. on a mountain stream feeding to the Ashotsk to Mt. Tsulasar (2555 m) are breathtaking. ²Þàòø Ghezelghoch, elev. 1986m, pop. 1349) was She may be ties to the Sumerian legend, or and Akhurian Rivers. renamed for the medieval name of the area simply added to the story of the three brothers to (Kakavasar - Î³ù³í³ë³ñ - till 1978 Kefli, (“Rose Spring”), the old name in honor of a lend Christian credence to the site. Camping in the hills; Springs in the area. pop. 153) has the ruined Karmravor church young militant, Ghukas Ghukasian (1899- (7th c) just W of the village and the remains 1920), founder of Armenia’s Communist Youth The history of the site is even more obscure, Â Continue NE on the Highway for about 4 km to of cyclopean fort. Movement. In 1919 he represented the since villagers seem to have been descended Side Trip (Musaiyelian, DD 40.9927778x Armenian Bolshevik youth at the convention of from immigrants to the area between 1828 43.9388889) or go back to Vardaghpiur 4 + Camping in area; Overnight in village home the Spartacus youth organization in Tiflis. Sent (Russo-Turkish war) and 1874 (The Hamadin is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); O to Kars in February 1920 to prepare for May pogroms), further removing them from the Springs in the area. uprising, he was killed in a battle with the original inhabitants. SIDE TRIP: (Musaiyelian - Øáõë³Û»ÉÛ³Ý - till authorities on 14 May. Â Take the side road E about 4 km (and past the 1946 Boz Giugh, elev. 2081m, pop. 1716) has You can’t help but notice their age as you Sarapat turnoff) to DZORASHEN (DD the S. T’rdat church(1894) with an adjoining Another sad little outlet in Armenia, Ashotsk is stumble on the huge stone covers for the medieval graveyard with some ram shaped 40.9313889x 44.0691667) 4 + O the former capital of Ghukasian region, so has sarcophagi when you enter the chapel, their tombstones. The gravestones show the layout in exact position common among Bronze a few government buildings (closed), a couple influence of animal features on gravestones, ² DZORASHEN - Òàð²ÞºÜ (elev. 2091m, of shops, kiosks and no cafes or jasharans. Age burials. shared with Pre-Christian rites and Turn N on pop. 1526) has the ruined S. Stepanos monastery They do have some rather fat and lazy gai

a side road and you can take a rough scenic (12-13th cc), remnants of a 10th c. fortress and (highway patrolmen) who try and shake The villagers have no idea what they are road via Hartashen and Zukaghpiur to Ashotsk a church (1863). It is a difficult slog to the protecting, for them Sisak, Misak & Apetnak anyone down who stops at the town. (about 10 km). Continue NE on the highway monastery, but worth it for the intrepid traveler. (Shishak, Mishak and Apetnakh?) were three and the road ascends to the Karakhach Pass Nestled in the folds of the Gogaran Mountains, Ashotsk is the headquarters for the Ashotsk brothers who lived in some distant time with their (alt. 2272 m) over Mt. Salut (not passable until the hamlet has few amenities (and fewer people, Cheese Factory (stock up on Dutch, Lori, sister Shoghakat and their graves bring good luck May) some 35 km to Tashir (then 15 km S to who make the annual treks uphill in the summer to those who bring offerings to them. In one Chanakh, Suluguni etc.), the Redemptoris Stepanavan) through deforested mountains. to tend their flocks. S. Stepanos is a central Mater Hospital, a gift of Pope John Paul II, corner of the room an old stone leans against the domed cruciform type, with elaborate carvings on operated by the Camillian Religious order. walls, as well as a small coin. Villagers say if you Camping in the area; Overnight in village the remaining stones. The once walled wish for something and rub it had enough, it will (3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Springs in the monastery had a gavit (also 13th c) and several stick to the stone and grant your wish. We tried, Food Cafes, Food shops, kiosks and BBQ area. shrines, now missing. The fortress was likewise stands on main road, overnight in local and alas failed to get the coin to stick, but others toppled by invading Seljuks, Mongols and homes (ask around) succeeded, no doubt in better touch with Sisak Â Go back to Vardaghpiur then take the S side Timurids. Scant remains to mark what was once and Misak than us. road for about 3 km to (Salut, DD 40.9666667x a rather impressive affair, given its remote Â From Ashotsk follow the hwy N about 1.9 km location. to the Mets Sepasar turnoff to the Left (W) and

Shirak Marz: page 29 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide follow that another 2 km into the village of (Mets the original Ghazanchi inhabitants, destroyed by taxis at Akhalkalaki. A taxi from Giumri should Sepasar DD 41.0491667 x 43.8233333) 4 + Turkish and Mongolian invaders. cost about 30 dollars

O Camping in area; Overnight in village home is Â END OF TRIP 4

possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); SIDE TRIP: (Mets Sepasar – Ø»Í ê»å³ë³ Springs in the area. elev. 67m, pop. 1200) is located just below Mt. ² ² ² ² ² Shishtepe (Tepe being an Arabic word for Â Continue N on the highway about 4 km to a mound or citadel) and recent excavations are side road, turn right and go another 2 km to uncovering a variety of artifacts from various periods including some Aneolithic tools. The (Sizavet, DD 41.105x 43.8411111) 4 + O excavations work in the summers, if you see a jeep up on the hill, make your way up there to SIDE TRIP: (Sizavet - êÆ¼²ìºî till 1946 view the work. Korbulagh, then till 1967 Tasghkashen, elev. 2145m, pop. 1455) has an obsidian mine E of Camping in area; Overnight in village home the village, early stone tools and a Bronze Age is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); settlement. Obsidian was widely used by Springs in the area. Armenian ancestors for tool making, there are even fragments of obsidian ‘magnifying Â Continue N on the highway about 6 km to glasses” found at Karahundj in Siunik region, GHAZANCHI (DD 41.0788889x 43.8216667) 4 Armenia’s Stonehenge. Throughout Georgia and Armenia this natural glass was found in + O volcanic complexes over wide areas, and obsidian tools go back 250,000 years. The ² GHAZANCHI - Ô³½³ÝãÇ (elev. 2030m, obsidian outcroppings at Sizavet and 6 km pop. 1220) is to the right (E) of the highway and west on the same road at Tavshut were major is not much of a village to look at, but N of the tool factories in the Stone and Bronze Ages. village, also to the right is an interesting Catholic Armenian graveyard, replete with a white and Camping in area; Overnight in village home blue Greek style chapel inside. The graves cover is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); the 10th c to the modern period and include Springs in the area. three animal stones from the time of the Timur and Mongolian invasions. Â Go back to the highway, then N about 4 km to

(Bavra DD 41.1275x 43.7758333) 4 + O

SIDE TRIP: (Bavra - ´²ìð² once Titoi Kharaba, elev. 2151m, pop. 960) is best known as the customs and immigration point for the Georgian border. You can purchase a visa entering from Georgia at this point for around $30, and Georgia grants visa to citizens bearing a US passport.

The village ha a cemetery on its W edge with some old Arabic tombstones. Otherwise uninteresting (unless you are thirsty for petrol). Note that Viva Cell works up here and into Georgia.

Camping in area; Overnight in village home Just N of this graveyard, on the left is the old is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Urmi gerezmanner (“Urmi graves”) thought to Springs in the area. have contained Greek immigrants form the middle ages or earlier. Excavations showed the Â The highway continues N into the remote foundations of a 10th-11th c nave church and mostly Armenian districts of Akhalkalaki - Armenian khachkar pieces, leading archeologists ²Ë³Éù³É³ÏÇ (45 km) and Akhaltsikhe - to the conclusion the area was actually the site of ²Ë³ÉóÇË» (120 km). There are minibuses and

Shirak Marz: page 30 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide TRIP 5: AKHURIAN Â Go back to Shirak then take the SE road along with some of his best canvasses. Camping in area; Overnight in village home about 3 km to KAMO (DD 40.3588889x Recovering from the loss of his work, he is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); GIUMRI - (Shirak) - (Hatsik – Topar) - KAMO embarked on a new, late burst of creativity, Springs in the area. - JAJUR – (Mets Sariar) – (Jajur Pass) – 45.1266667) 4 + O painting "Meditation" (1972) and "Baking Lavash" GIUMRI – (Akhurian) - KARNUT – KARNUT Â At Jajur, either go E on the Spitak highway (1972) and others. KAMO - (till 1935 Haji Nazar, elev. RESERVOIR - (Hovit) – MUSAIYELIAN – ² Î²Øà about 7 km to (Jajur Pass - æ³çáõéÇ É»éÝ³Ýóù JRARAT 1946m, pop. 1710), named for a revolutionary Paleolithic tools have been found in Jajur. - 1952 m) Or return to Giumri. bank robber, has an Astvatsatsin church (1878). Camping in area; Overnight in village home is Stay: Overnight in Giumri, village home if you 2 km NW is a medieval settlement (“Chataljur “) Â From Giumri take the Akhurian Road SE of possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); don’t mind the rustic amenities. and the “Khacher“ Hellenistic site. town about 6 km to (Akhurian, DD Springs in the area. Eat: Road side stands, Shirak, Giumri. 40.7813889x 43.8963889) Æ 4 + O Camping in area; Overnight in village home is

Day Trip 5 explores the Eastern edge of Shirak, possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Â At Jajur, go E on the Spitak highway about 3 SIDE TRIP: (Akhurian - ²ËáõñÛ³Ý - till 1945 the foothills of Mt. Aragats, its villages, ravines Springs in the area. km to Krashen, then N about 3 km to Side Trip Duzkent, elev. 154m, pop. 2309). Was the and meadows, on the road to Spitak and (Mets Sariar, DD 40.8933333x 43.9525) 4 + Â At Kamo take the N road past the Jajur capital of the former Akhurian region and has a Vanadzor and above Lake Karnut. Reservoir about 3 km to JAJUR (DD O few kiosks to show for it.

40.8505556x 43.9480556) 4 + Â Take the NE highway towards Spitak (41 km) O SIDE TRIP: (Mets Sariar - Ø»Í ê³ñÇ³ñ, Food in villagekhoroavts; Camping in area; and Vanadzor (64 km), and go about 6 km to ² JAJUR – æ²æàôè (elev. 1750m, pop. elev. 1961m, pop. 752) has a 19th c. S. Overnight in village home is possible (rustic, (Shirak, DD 40.8480556x 43.9213889) 4 + 1616) has the house-museum of the painter N’shan church, reliquary for several 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Springs in the O Minas Avetisian (1928-1975). Born there, Minas manuscripts now in Yerevan. area. was one of Armenia’s most famous painters of SIDE TRIP: (Shirak - ÞÇñ³Ï - till 1940 the 20th century, a modernist who developed his Ghonaghkran or “guest killer,” elev. 1661m, own style of painting within the so-called pop. 1616), so name for the time locals killed “National “ style formulated by Sarian. His Persian soldiers quartered in their homes, after character was said to be like that of the rural hearing the soldiers meant to harm them. In community: strength of character, warm humor, the village are the S. Hakob church and S. the trustworthiness and reliability which one Minas shrine. always feels in people bound to the soil. It was by pure chance that the artist's parents escaped Camping in area; Overnight in village home the 1915 massacre. Not far from Jajur several is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); thousands of people were killed in a ravine. The Springs in the area. generation which saw these terrible events with their own eyes is still alive. Often on winter Â At Shirak take the W road about 4 km to evenings, sitting by the hearth of his village (Hatsik, DD 40.1641667x 43.9408333) 4 + home the artist heard the accounts of eye- witnesses. This may explain the drama he

O instilled in his paintings.

SIDE TRIP: 4 km west of Shirak on a side road Avetisian studied art in Leningrad, at the is (Hatsik - Ð³óÇÏ, elev. 889m, pop. 1558), Academy of Fine Arts and haunted the Hermitage also called Toparli or Topar. The village has the to study its art. He credited his skill to his Tsak Kar (literally hole stone), a large huge teachers Johannson, Zaitsev and Khudiakov. He stone with a hole just big enough for a person traveled widely around Armenia, eagerly seeking to squeeze through, granting happiness to out historical monuments; he studied the those who can pass through (large people not Armenian miniature and the works of the greatest apply, and apparently, are doomed to live in Armenian artists, above all, Saryan's. Avetisian's woe and gnash their teeth). About 2 km away real emergence as an artist was at the "Exhibition is (Tarband – î³ñμ³Ý¹), a beautiful old of Five" in Yerevan in 1962, where he revealed mountain village with stone streets, walls and himself as a mature painter with a bright picture-pretty church. individuality. Influenced by miniaturists he studied throughout his life, Avetisian’s paintings Camping in area; Overnight in village home are renowned for their color and depth of detail, is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); as expressionistic as they were. Springs in the area. On the evening of January 1, 1972, while he was visiting Jajur, Avetisian’s studio burned down,

Shirak Marz: page 31 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide Â At Akhurian take the E road about 7 km to Karnut has been the focus of excavations and has a Bolshevik captain who sent his troops in KARNUT (DD 40.7836111x 43.9541667) 4 + a dense concentration of Early Bronze Age support of the May 1920 uprising against the materials, topographically quite characteristic of government in Alexandropol/Giumri. Sentenced O contemporary sites in neighboring regions, such to death when the revolt collapsed, he was

as Anushavan, Keti and Tsaghkahovit, in nevertheless shot by Dashnaks when two of their ² KARNUT - Î²èÜàôî (till 1946 Diraklar, Aragatsotn. Though colder now, in its day, the leaders were killed in Zangezur. There is a elev. 1629m, pop. 1852), is a farming area was comparatively warm, seldom freezing. renovated church renovated (1842). community, specializing in wheat, sugar beets, Deforestation in Armenia is much of the reason vegetables, fruit and cattle. The area is also the climate has so radically changed. About 1 km Camping in area; Overnight in village home is known for its basalt mines, and for some Early N are the remains of an 8th-7th cc. BCE dam. possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Bronze Age ruins on a nearby hill. To the NE is a Springs in the area. ruined basilica built on the foundations of a pagan Camping in area; Overnight in village home is temple in the 4th-5th cc. and rebuilt in the 10th c. Â From Musaiyelian continue S 5 km to possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); This small basilica stands on top of a hill Springs in the area. JRARAT (DD 40.7461111x 44.0883333) 4 + overlooking the village and is of the same type as O other early churches of its time, particularly the Â From Karnut take the N road around the stretched hall the proportion of (1:2.36) and the Karnut Reservoir about 3 km to (Hovit) ² JRARAT - æð²è²î (“Place of Water” - till horseshoe shaped apse, the same type as that at 4 1945 Chirakhlu, elev. 2236m, pop. 1162) has the Tanahat, another early Christian hall. small S. Minas church (6th c.) and the remains of ² KARNUT RESERVOIR - Î²èÜàôîÆ æð²Ø´²ð is a pretty lake that captures the a cyclopean fort. The road continues (barely) mountain waters flowing to the Jrarat River. another 9 km to Spandarian, for Jeeps only. Jrarat is near the headwaters of the Jrarat River, SIDE TRIP: (Hovit – ÐáíÇï, pop. 481) has with a beautiful view of the reservoir and the khachkars 2 km east of the village Giumri valley.

Camping at the reservoir. Camping in area; Overnight in village home is possible (rustic, 3000 AMD for B&B is fair); Springs in the area.

Â END OF TRIP 5.

² ² ² ² ²

The basilica stands on a multi-stepped stylobate, its southern outdoor chapel the only one for the church, has a small recessed apse in its western wall, unique in Armenia for not orienting altars to the East, feeding suspicions this remote church either participated in or at least tolerated Pre- Christian rites into the Christian era. The building connects theories of pre-Christian and Armenian architecture. The church itself was erected on a slope, which was contrary to the original flat surface that single nave churches are originally Â From Hovit continue S 2 km to built upon. The church in all is very unusual MUSAIYELIAN (DD 40.9927778x 43.9388889) starting with its structure. Part of its serrated cornice has survived. ² MUSAIYELIAN - Øàôê²ÚºÈÚ²Ü (till 1935 Mets Kyapanak, elev. 2081m, pop. 1716) was renamed in honor of Sargis G. Musaiyelian,

RESOURCES “Byzantium The Early Centuries,” John Julius “Armenia Traveler Encyclopedia,” K. S. Ecology Norwich (Knopf, New York) Khudaverdian, S. S. Arevshatian, V. N. Beliy, Sh. G. Khachatrian, A. V. Kakosian, E. Geophone Voice of the Earth EADINGS “The Byzantine Empire, A Political History www.geophone.nm.ru/ L. Melkonian (Armenian Soviet 1025-1204,” Michael Angold (Longman, Encyclopedia, Yerevan, 1990) “Early Christian Architecture of Armenia,” London and New York) Biodiversity of Armenia www.nature- ic.am/biodiv/index%20eng.html Murad Hasratian (Yerevan, 2000) “Wetlands in Armenia – their values and "The Armenians," Sirapie Der Nersessian (New threats and their contribution to sustainable “Architectural Ensembles of Armenia,” O. K. York: Praeger Publishers, 1970) Masis.am Mountains development and poverty alleviation,” PDF Khalpakhchian (Iskusstvo Publishers, www.masis.am/mounts/?lang=eng FILE Moscow 1980) "The Ancient Civilization of Urartu: An Archeological Adventure," Boris B. Masis.am Flora www.masis.am/ “First National Report to The Convention on “Compositions of Domed Structures in Georgia Piotrovsky (New York: Coules Co. 1969) Biological Diversity incorporating A Country PGRCAC www.cac- and Armenia” (R. Agababian, Yerevan 1950) biodiversity.org/arm/index.htm "The People of the Hills," by Charles Burney & Study on the Biodiversity of Armenia” PDF “The History of Armenian Architecture” (V. David Marshall Long (London: Baylis & Son, FILE Birds of Armenia Project www.cac- Arutunian, Yerevan 1985) 1971) ONLINE biodiversity.org/arm/index.htm “Armenian Architectural Monuments” (V. "The Armenians," by John M. Douglas (J. J. Regional Plant Genetic Resources in the Caucasus and Arutunian and S. Safarian, Moscow, 1951) Winthrop Corp, 1992) Central Asia www.cac- Alexandrapol Database “”Architettura Armena del quarto al biodiversity.org/arm/arm_biodiversity.htm "The Armenians, Their History and Culture," by www.alexandrapol.org/ diciannovesimo secolo,” P. Cuneo (Rome, Ara Beliozian (AGBU Press, 1980) “State of the Environment 2000" 1988) Armenian Studies Web Site enrin.grida.no/htmls/armenia/soe2000/eng/ "Histoire de l’Armenie," by Pardejian armenianstudies.csufresno.edu/ “Armenian Civil Architecture (Dwelling Houses Architecture and Public Buildings),” O. Khalpakchian "Zoroastrianism in Armenia", by James Russell Sev Ghul www.armenian.ch/armenia/Pages/ETHZ/ (Moscow, 1971) “Armenian Khachkars” (Editions Erebuni, 1978) www.gyumri.am/i/photos/crc/sevberd www.thais.it/architettura/default.htm “Domed Cross Compositions in Armenia and “Armenian Medieval Churches,” Swiss Institute Shirak Regional Museum the Byzantine Empire in the 5th to 7th for Technology, Department of Architecture www.shirakmuseum.am/ Information, Guides Centuries,” S. Mnatsakanian (Yerevan, (ETH, Zurich, 1996) 1989) Gyumri.am www.gyumri.am/ ArmeniaGuide.com “Architecture of the Soviet Armenia,” Virtual Ani www.virtualani.freeserve.co.uk/ “Materials on the History of Armenian (Stroysdat, Moscow, 1986) Maps of Armenia (to buy) Architecture,” T. Thoromanian (Yerevan, Ani www.mapsworldwide.com/sec.asp?secid=29 Vol. 1, 1948) “Russian Arkitektura Sovietskoy Armenie 20th www.saudiaramcoworld.com/issue/196705/ Maps of Armenia (to look) Century,” (Sovietakan Grogh, Yerevan, ani.htm “Old Armenian Architecture,” N. Tokarsky, 1980) www.reliefweb.int/rw/rwb.nsf/doc404?Open (Yerevan, 1946) Urban Institute www.urbaninstitute.am/ Form&cc=arm&rc=3 “The Armenians: A Colossal Bibliographic “Armenian Architecture in the 4th to 14th Guide to Books Published in English,” History, Culture, Background Visa Information, Foreign Ministry Centuries,” N. Tokarsky (Yerevan, 1961) (Armenian Reference Book, 1993) www.armeniaforeignministry.com/ www.armenian.ch “Armenian Architecture,” A. Zarian (Yerevan, “A Brief History of Armenia,” Rev Sarkis E-Visa 1996) Papajian, Mid-Cal Publishers, Fresno 1974. www.armgate.org www.armeniaforeignministry.am/eVisa/ Hye Etch www.hyeetch.nareg.com.au/ “A History of the Armenian People, Vol. 1,” "Armenia and Armenians, ” Dennis R. www.virtualarmenia.am George A Bournoutian (Mazda Publishers, Papazian, The University of Michigan, Eastern Asia Minor and the Caucasus in Costa Mesa) News, Literature Dearborn, September 8, 1987. Ancient Mythologies rbedrosian.com/mythint.htm www.ArmeniaNow.com “The Armenian People, From Ancient to Modern "A Very Brief History of Armenia,” Christopher Times, Vol. 1,” Richard Hovannisian (St. J. Walker, Printinfo, Yerevan, 2003 Armenian History www.abrilbooks.com Martin’s Press, New York) www.armenianhistory.info/index.htm "Forests and Their Significance for www.stvartanbookstore.com “Armenia, A Journey Through History,” Arra Mountainous Armenia, V. Gabrielyan, A. Exhaustive Armenian History Avakian (The Electric Press, Fresno) www.littlearmenia.com Nalbandyan, N. Darbinyan, Yerevan, 2001 penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Gazetteer/ Places/Asia/Armenia/_Texts/KURARM/home. Armenian House Literature www.cac- “The Heritage of Armenian Literature, Vol. 1 "Unique Geological Monuments of Armenia: biodiversity.org/arm/index.htm From the Oral tradition to the Golden Age,” Guidebook for tourists, ” Ashot Avanessian, html Agop Hacikyan, editor (Wayne State Edward Malkhassian and Sergey Armenian Highland University Press, Detroit) Nazaretyan, (Armenian Foundation of www.armenianhighland.com/ Seismic Protection Yerevan, 2000)

Shirak Marz: page 33 of 40 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com ® TourArmenia Travel Guide ABOUT THE AUTHORS record that still stands. He was a Sports Teacher out and use this PDF file for your own Rick Ney (author) started his life in Armenia in and an Honored Coach of the Republic of personal use and any non-commercial 1992, working in education, humanitarian aid and Armenia. He lives in Yerevan, is a proud purpose, provided you print and distribute development projects that morphed into IT Yerevantsi, one of the few who did not leave in this pdf in its entirety and give TourArmenia development and writing about Armenia; a the dark years of 1991-1995. and the authors complete written credit. You relationship of 14 years which has taken him to it promise not to sell, resell or use this material seems every nook of his adopted country. Rick is Bella Karapetian (Editing, Translations, Russian for any reason and that no part of this passionate about Armenia’s deep history and Edition) first met Rick in 1993 when she came to document may be taken out of context or out amazing ecology, and can be found roaming the the American University and worked in his office of the entire PDF or used separately or countryside in search of new places to introduce as Faculty services Manager and Special Events reproduced in any format without written to the world. Rick is equally passionate about Coordinator, where she learned patience and permission from TourArmenia and the making the country accessible for independent good humor working with American professors author. travelers, whom he believes will be the basis of (God give us patience and a dose of Pantalgin). Armenia’s development and entry into the She then worked at the World Food Program in democratic world. Rick divides his time between Armenia for 11 years as an administrator and Armenia and caring for a parent in Texas, both of Program Officer. At the same time she which he considers the richest experiences of his collaborated with Rick on articles and the first life. TourArmenia CD-ROM. In her previous life Bella worked with International architects at Rick wrote the first full guide to Armenia in the ArmStateDesign Institute as an information post Soviet era and the first multi-media guide on program assistant and translator, as well as CD-ROM, TourArmenia. Other writings include learning the form and function of design in life, a articles about Armenia’s prehistoric observatories gift she carries with her to this day. History and at Metsamor and Karahundj, Armenia’s Nature architecture is her true love and she has traveled and hiking trails and commentary on his to China, Thailand, Malaysia, Italy, Germany, and experiences in the country. Still others are travel Lebanon and throughout the former Soviet Union. articles for several publications. Rick and his Bella tops this off by maintaining her membership small team at TourArmenia continue to add in the World Esperanto Association. Saluton! information about the country to their web site at www.TACentral.com and www.TourArmenia.info. Thanks to: (Region): Ashot Mirzoian, Armine and the City Research Center; to Stepan Ter- Rafael Torossian (research, maps, and Margaryan & the folks at the Institutes of History graphics) has been collaborating with Rick on and Archeology branches of the National TourArmenia since 1996, focusing on maps and Academy for their help on pointing me to original graphics while providing some much needed sources and exhaustive original information on reality checks and commentary along the way. destinations; to Boris Gasparyan for detailed info In his other real life, Rafael designs flash of prehistoric material; (General): to Tigran sequences, ads, graphics and web sites for TWRI, Nazarian and Christine Karapetian, for their designing for a wide variety of sites and content insightful comments, advice, and challenging management projects. ideas; to Gagik Gurjian from the Ministry for

Historical Preservation, who has been showing In a previous life Rafi was the Assistant to the me the intricacies of Armenia’s cultural Minister for Sports, serving 6 ministers, before monuments and their influences since 1992, meeting Rick when they worked together on leading me to some of the mot amazing places several humanitarian aid projects funded by and events I have been, as well as to the large USAID and managed by the Armenian Assembly vat of killer Voskevaz wine in his garden; to of America and Fund for Democracy and Sam Stepanian for his support; to Arminco, Development. In a world where engineers are Andranik, Grisha Saghian and Vahan Yerkanian taxi drivers, Rafi became the Finance Manager for for their help in creating the first CD version and these projects, learning computer skills and continuing support, link ups and links to culture creating the first multi-denomination accounting and more and to R and L. TMB. system for USAID projects in the Caucasus.

In an even earlier life Rafi was an athlete, Legal Stuff: TourArmenia® Travel Guide and competing in Light Athletics (Track) where he set all content are protected by US and the All Armenia record for the 60 meter dash, a International copyright laws. You may print

ANI PLAN 36. 4-columned fire temple later converted 73a. “Checkboard House” (exc. 1908) 108. Ruins to a church 72. Cathedral baptistry The Citadel: Outside the City: 37. S. Arakelots (Holy Apostles) church 73. Queen Katranideh mausoleum 109. Royal palace 1. Bathhouse ruins 38. Hostels (exc. 1908) 74. Oil Press 109a. Palatine church 2. Ramparts 39. Red church 76a. Oil Press 109b. Palace Hall 3. Burial mound 40. Two large rooms 75. Tower & vaulted passage 109c. Palace Hall 4. Kirakos Mausoleum 41. Burial mound 76. Tower & underground passage 109d. Palace Hall 5. Chapel ruins 42. Burial mound 78a. Church 109e. Palace Baths 6. Chapel ruins 43. Burial mound 77. Burial mound 109f. Palace Cistern 7. Stone church 44. Church ruins 78. Burial mound 110. Midjnaberd Church Church ruins 45. Church ruins (wooden décor) 79. Ruins 111. Vaulted structure 46. Church ruins 80. S. Grigor Honents shurch Inside the City : 112. Tetraconch church 47a. Oil press 81. Baths (exc. in 1893) 8. " Baron's palace" 113. Church 47. Baths 82. Burial mound 9. Church with a corinthian capital 114. Hexagonal church 48. Burial mounds 83. Vaulted gallery 10. Stone church 115. Armenian Cemetery 49. “Checkerboard Church” (alternating color 84. Oil Press 11. Unknown Ruins 118. Water conduit stone façade) 85. Underground entry 12. Palace ruins 50. S. Amenaprkich (Church of the Holy 86. Chapel Kizkale Peninsula: 13. Oil Press Redeemer) 88a. Ruins 116. Kamsarakan tower bridge 14a. Subteranean room 51a. Church ruins 87. Guardhouse 117. S. Grigor Aljkaiberdi Convent 14. S. Grigor of King Gagik (Gagikashen) 51. Church ruins 88. Ruins 15. Burial mound 52a. Ruins 89. Ruins Towers 16. Palace of Sarkis 52b. Burial mound 91a. Ruins 1-95 – Outer Wall towers 17. Oil Press 52. S. Grigor Abughamir church 90. Gusanants Vank (Monastery of the 1-7 King Ashots Wall 18. Oil Press 53. Ruins Virgins) 1-4 Citadel wall 19. Large church ruins 54. Oil Press 1-4 Kizkale 20. Tunnels Old City (Ashot's walls): 55. Ruins of church with khachkar 21. Oil Press 91. Secular building Main Gates 56. Foundation ruins 22. Baths 92. King Ashot Wall I: Igadzor valley gate 57. Oil Press 23. Bakhtakegi church (exc. 1892) 93. Minukhir Mosque (museum ) II + III: Kars gate, walls 58. Burial mounds 24. Oil Press 94. Bridge IV + V: Lion gate, walls. 59. Horom Tikin (The Lady Horom) church 25. "Georgian Church" 95. House VI + VII: Chequerboard gate, walls 60. Oil Press 26. Refuse pit 96. Church ruins VIII: Gayladzor postern gate 61. Minaret : Abu Muamran mosque 27. Minukhir Tower 97. Museum IX: Gayladzor valley gate 62. Burial mound 28. Oil Press 99a. Nikoli Marr excavation residence X: Aruch gate 63. Ruins 29. Oil Press 100. Oil press, ruins XI + XII: postern gates. 64. Oil Press 30. Oil Press 101. Karimadin church (the red church) XIII: Sarkis Silenkh gate 65. Burial mounds 31. Ruins 102. Asvatsatsin Khambuchents XIV: Dvin Gate 66. Church ruins 32a. Ruins 103. Burial mound XV: King Ashot gate 67. Prelate residence 32b. Oil Press 104. Abu Khatsip church XVI: Tsaghkotsadzor valley gate 68. -69a. Colonnade 32. Church ruins 104a. Subterranean city entry 69. Burial mound Map source: "Ani - a History of the City and its 33. Church ruins 105. Gaiyl Mausoleum 70. Burial mound Excavations" by Nikolai Marr, Leningrad and 34. Church ruins (?) 106. Church 71. S. Sarkis church Moscow, 1934. 35. Ruins 107. 4-Columned structure ruins 73. Ani Cathedral