B eC id en jWINTER/SPRING 2008 VOLol#2 12 HaWILLv h lTRAVELr TRAVEL IDEAS & INFORMATION FOR FAMILIES OF ALL AGES

but comfortable and here’s a lot of places costing from RM50 per Thehe belowbelow thethe person, which includes a Tin the world that offerT ANDAND INDIND theT ‘real cultural experi- LL WW meal and bed for the ence’ of a country but night. (RM 50 approx. none more so than living US$15 or Australian $20) in a Homestay, hanging We stayed in a two- with the local families, story complex with sever- watching your kids play al bedrooms and a large with theirs, eating their dining and lounge room, food and learning their which is great for travel- ways. The region of ing groups (and lots of Sabah in Malaysia on kids), allowing for privacy the island of Borneo is in your room but offering one such place that offers an area to socialize in as this special cultural well. Shoes are always experience. The area is removed at the door. also known as The Land Electricity conversion Below the Wind. plugs are available here Back in the 1960s, to charge up your digital Malaysia was divided – camera or video camera; the peninsula with the these conversion plugs capital of Kuala Lumpur are always the first I and the island of Borneo looked for settling into a and its two regions of new accommodation. Sabah and Sarawak. Guests are well looked Sabah offers warm after by the homestay weather year round and hosts Rubbin & Lotihim it isn’t loaded with glitzy Guribah and their family. hotels and souvenir In fact, when I put my shops on every roadway This swing bridge spans over the swift flowing family’s bag of dirty cloth- and street.You also get a Pantaran River in Sabah, Malaysia. ing in one corner the next time I saw it, it had been WHAT’S good exchange rate on both the washed by couple’s daughter Ivy INSIDE... Australian and American dollar and was hanging on the under- and good values with your vaca- cover line to dry. Now that’s the Malaysia ...... 1 tion savings. kind of service I like and it’s Canada’s Ice Hotel . . . 4 included in the price. Raleigh, NC ...... uring our travels through Lotihim and her helpers cook 6 Sabah, which included several wonderful traditional Malaysian Big Island HI ...... 8 DadultsD and a total of meals that give Smuggler’s VT...... nine children between Living in a homestay, you more time to 11 the ages of 7 and 13, we explore and do Highway 20 ...... offers the ultimate 14 chose to stay at the cultural experience. whatever you Whistler BC ...... 19 Melangkap Homestay want on holiday. in Kota Belud, which is located You also can cook for yourself if Alaska/Canada . . . . . 20 31 km from the city centre in a you wish. Italy ...... place known as Low’s Gully. 22 “Borneo” continued on page 2. The accommodation is simple

“Borneo” continued from page 1. what the hosts are doing. It might England. Their plight was pub- The Melangkap Homestay is be crafts, cooking, fishing, music, lished and the Dusun people got located at the foot of the great dance, hunting, exploring caves, 5 minutes of international fame. Mt. Kinabalu, the high- Low’s Gully is home to thou- est peak in Borneo and sands of species of vegetation, in Southeast Asia. When flowers, animals and fish, and it rains, you can see and some of the area is still unex- photograph waterfalls plored. During your stay, you can flowing down the moun- take trekking and cycling trips tain from the balcony of into parts of the jungle to see the accommodation waterfalls, caves, animals and complex. plants and view the Pantaran River from different places. ight on the Home- Because the Malaysian people stay’s doorstep is are very conservative, and partic- R ularly in the more remote areas theR beautiful Pantaran River which comes from conventional T- the mountain and offers Above:Tubing at the shirts and long clear, cool waters for local swim hole on shorts are pre- swimming. It reminded the Pantaran River. ferred for both me of rivers found on males and the North Island of Right: It’s wash day females, and New Zealand. with the locals. skirts must The Pantaran River cover the thighs flows very fast and while sitting. becomes dangerous if it’s Below: Making This means no friends at a flashing cleavage raining on the mountain roadside stall. due to extra water that or boob tubes, surges through small spaces but and no short during spells of bright sunshine, or puttering around in the gar- shorts or off the shoulder gar- the river offers a wonderful place dens. Homestay hostess Lotihim ments. If you get the chance to to cool has planted spectacular visit one of the local village off. You Low’s Gully is home to tropical flowers all over churches at the base of the can see thousands of species the homestay and these mountain, long pants for males locals flower beds and borders are essential. Shoulders and knees swim- of plants and animals. offer great photo are to be covered for females. ming here Some of the area is opportunities. The village of Melangkap hile bathing in remote and the still unexplored. odd per- has a claim to fame that Wareas, you must either in 1994, five British solders swimW in your shorts and t-shirts son bringing their washing down to the river. There’s a large flat- got lost in the jungle and turned or wear a Malaysian sarong that faced rock on the edge of is like a giant circle of material the river that you can use that you envelope yourself in so to slide into the water, that minimal flesh is showing. and an extensive swing You must also walk to and from bridge over the river for the river fully clothed or in your those who prefer to sarong. In other parts of Malaysia observe the flowing river where 5 star hotels are located from a safer distance. The such as on the banks of the nine kids in our travel Sutera Harbour, tourists are group all had a fantastic free to walk around in their time in the Pantaran River skimpy bikinis and whatever else supervised by the adults they fancy. In the remote areas who were also in the thick away from the tourist areas, how- of it, jumping in and going down- up at the tiny Dusun Village ever, remember to dress like the stream before wading out and seeking help. The soldiers were Malaysians when you and the having another go. nursed back to health and when kids visit their villages, and you’ll Homestay guests can choose to fit enough, they were released be pleasantly received. explore and relax at their own back to the capital of Sabah, Kota “Borneo” continued on page 3. pace or they can participate in Kinabalu, and later returned to 2

“Borneo” continued from page 2. their way around much easier experience as guests are offered If traveling with a partner, also than tourists, or they can easily opportunities to partake in the keep in mind that in Malaysia, holler out their car window to Sunday markets, the farmers hand holding, kissing, public dis- someone in a village that speaks daily market, do river bathing, plays of affection, arms around the local lingo to find The easiest way to get rubber tap- shoulders, even which ping, fruit good-morning- way to around Sabah is with a picking, hello-how-are go if driver/van package. rice paddy you-today kisses they planting in are off limits. do happen to season, go fishing, learn tradition- Males and get lost. Local al cooking, play cultural games, females do not drivers also and partake in local events and display affection festivals; for a to each other in small charge you public, only in also can go private. And cycling, buffalo or always use your pony riding, and right hand to Above:The girls instruct the local kids participate in cul- shake hands, in the art of blowing bubbles. tural dancing. So for an off the handle money, Right: Cayden with new-made friends. wave, etc. In beaten path and Malaysia the left Below: Jaymee getting to grips (the cultural experi- hand is used for know-how) with the shower. ence free of urban toilet customs noise and pollu- and it is highly offensive to offer know how to drive and park in tion, consider Malaysian Borneo. the left hand for anything. Like- the towns and cities so you don’t It’s the kind of adventure you and wise, never point with a finger, have to worry about negotiating the kids will never forget. always use your thumb. your way around when shopping in For more information: he Melangkap Kota Belud or Melangkap Homestay Homestay in Kota the capital city of Kota Belud T Kota Kinabalu. C/- Lot 127, House No 2 Belud,T like a lot of Malaysian Homestays, Our driver, Taman Richdar is alcohol free. Always Solomon is bi-lin- Menggatal inquire when you gual, very capable, 88450 Kota Kinabalu arrange reservations. and reasonably priced. (Ph 088 Sabah, Malaysia And remember when Tel/Fax: 088 491 828 visiting a Malaysian 973981 or hand phone Hand Phone: 019 8316 897 house, hotel room, or (mobile phone) 013 Email: [email protected] homestay accommoda- 8871832). Solomon and his wife also Taginambur Homestay tion always remove PO Box 13337 your shoes at the door. have a small homes- 88838 Kota Kinabalu The easiest way to tay accommodation Sabah, Malaysia get around Sabah is not far from the Tel/Fax: 088 423 993 with a driver/van package.You Melangkap Homestay. Hand Phone: 019 8528 753 can hire a local driver and his Another homestay option our Email: [email protected] vehicle to take you wherever you group chose to spend one night at Malaysia Tourism wish to go. These drivers have the was the Taginambur Homestay, www.tourism.gov.my advan- which is tage of Guests can partake in markets, rubber located one knowing tapping, rice paddy planting, fishing, hour’s drive BBBBB how to traditional cooking, cultural games from Kota drive on Kinabalu – Victoria Purdie is a freelance the roads and dance, and buffalo riding... city. The air- writer/photographer and mother and port is a 20 of 3 children ages 7, 9 and 11 avoid the free range cows, chick- minute drive from the town of who love to travel.Check out her ens, cats, dogs, pigs, horses, and Kota Belud. The Taginambur website at http://freewebs.com/ other stray wildlife that wander Homestay offers 21 rooms in 9 victoriapurdie. all over the roads of Malaysia. separate houses in the village. The local drivers can also find Here you find a real cultural 3 CHILL OUT AT THE ICE HOTEL AND HAVE A N’ICE STAY!

28 degrees Fahrenheit (minus 2 eautiful. And frigid.” drink (hot chocolate is available to minus 5 Celsius). Staying over “B That’s the comment left for the kids) but be careful where is by far the best part. And, trust by one guest at Canada’s Ice you set down me, you won’t freeze. Hotel on the shores of Lac St. your glass Joseph, about 20 minutes west of as they uests take an information Quebec. And the hotel gets its tend to G class that shows how to name, not surprisingly, from slip off get into the mummy bags that the fact that nearly everything in the bar. come with every room – they’re the structure is The jolly warm enough for temperatures made of frozen disco beat that go down to minus 40 water. That is bound degrees (your fridge, by the way includes the to get you is only minus 8 degrees). Honey- walls, ceilings, all up mooners get to zip their bags beds, furniture, rocking to together and yes, there’s even a chandeliers, and the music. wedding chapel on the premises. even the glasses Makes you want to ask: “Did you you drink from at Above: Ice chandeliers decorate get cold feet?” but that, of course, the bar. the spacious halls of ice. would be too corny. In one of We took our Left:The N’Ice Club offers fun the romantic rooms the ice bed is kids to the Ice for the entire family. shaped like a large sleigh. Hotel for our winter Before bedtime, howev- vacation this year. A frozen won- Right: An evening er, the best practice is der, the elegant snow fort for kids moon viewed through soaking in the outside a frozen arch way. of all ages takes almost 6 weeks hot tub to increase your to build. The Ice Hotel is rebuilt Families dance core temperature. Like every year, each time slightly dif- happily with groups everyone else, you’ll need ferent from the year before. Over of other families or to wear your winter hat 12,000 tons of snow and 400 on their own. No during your outdoor tons of ice are used. wall flowers, rejec- soak, then you dry off in Once the weather warms up, tion, or cold shoul- the dry sauna and put around early April, it takes a ders here! your spa robe (provided mere six hours to demolish it. If time allows you by the hotel), boots, and The original idea came from can take a tour of hat on for the trek to your Sweden’s Ice Hotel and some the hotel for $14, or room. Clothes for the next guests have experienced both you can join the adventurous and day go at the bottom of your of them. spend a night here in tempera- mummy sleeping bag so they stay Visit the N’Ice Club for a tures that hover between 23 and “Ice Hotel” continued on page 5.

4 “Ice Hotel” continued from page 4. for much longer and in hazardous are available from $14 and over warm and toasty. Our kids conditions! Brrrr! 70,000 people each year come for thought this part was hilarious At breakfast the next day, our the tour alone. Since this is a and loved all the squirming to get family joined the proud, beaming large part of the hotel’s revenue, into their mummy bag. faces of the fellow young and old the rooms are open to the public The secret to a good night’s snow warriors who all survived during the day and into the sleep, when told by the staff, is our one night of sub-zero tempera- evening. Guests get access to their actually to make sure you don’t tures.Yes, room between the hours of breathe inside your sleeping bag most folks 9:00 pm and 8.30 am. as that would cause humidity and only stay With so much going on you’d eventually get very cold. one night - outside and in other We’re advised that even wearing – we are parts of the hotel, this is that day’s socks to bed can do the creatures more than ample time to same thing, so be sure to put on of com- spend in your icy room. fresh dry socks right before you fort, after climb into your mummy bag. all. We and ctivities outside our fellow Athe hotel include he beds are surprisingly travelers cross-country skiing, ice Tcomfortable and no, we’re regale each Guests share stories while fishing, snow shoeing, dog not sleeping on ice itself, other with warming their hands. sledding, and ice-skating. Or although the outside of the bed is stories of how you can simply stay warm by made from the frozen water. The long it took us to get to sleep, eating. The food at the Ice Hotel inside of the bed is built of wood, how warm we felt in our mummy restaurant is to die for and you can with comfy foam padding on top. bags, and how surprised we all enjoy options like cheese fondue A pillow is provided inside the were to don our snow boots still (try the bread, cheese and a grape hood of the mummy bag. You remarkably dry and comfortable all in one mouthful) or the locally can leave your snow boots out- before heading for the hot show- fished trout. side the bag, they’ll be fine in the ers in the warm locker room. The next day our family headed morning. Oh, and we’re also Sad though were the faces of a back home to California to cozy advised to not wear cotton, even few visitors who imbibed too temperatures of 50 degrees. Snow- if it’s what much and had to exit their boots and thermals packed away, your ther- sleeping bags during the we had thoroughly enjoyed the mals are freezing cold nightime Ice Hotel near Quebec and all it made of. hours, don warm clothes had to offer. The kids were quite Cotton, and visit the bathroom! happy as well – they got bragging once it gets And then return and rights with all their friends at wet with go through the whole school for actually sleeping all perspira- undressing- night in a cozy mummy bag in a tion, makes and-back- real ice hotel. “It was awesome, I you feel very into-the- never knew they could do so much cold. If you mummy with ice,” said Christine, my 10 Above:The bedrooms wish, the bag-again year old daughter. are decorative and the process. Was it beautiful? Breath-taking, whole family beds are surprisingly can snuggle comfortable. Some guests like nothing you’ll see anywhere together in admitted in North America. Was it frigid? their individ- that they Not for the adventurous in spirit. Right:Weddings are didn’t make More importantly, was it worth ual mummy popular here. Select bags on one from many settings it back it? Absolutely. It’s an experience bed for extra like this arched chapel. down from that our family, for one, has warmth. the lodge, frozen in our memory. After checking out the hot tub, situated several More Information: dancing the night away in the yards away outside, and they www.icehotel-canada.com Disco, and admiring the ice chan- ended up deciding to sleep the 877-505-0423 delier, then you and the kids can rest of the night in the heated look for the Himalayas photo locker room area! We were glad BBB exhibit with its pictures of the we’d limited the kids as to how --Sheila O'Connor is from San Francisco trek to the world’s highest moun- much hot chocolate they drank and writes about family travel, parenting tains. This helped us feel glad the night before. and women's issues. She travels with her we’re only spending one night in As mentioned, tours of the Ice kids, David, Andrew, and Christine. the cold. Those explorers did it Hotel without an overnight stay Photo Credits: John Jeremy 5 o you have Sir Walter drawers holding typical food, toys, enough for the kid in anybody. Raleigh in a vintage can? clothing and other interesting On the day Corey and I visited, a Then you've got the namesake things from various continents zany annual insect extravaganza for an off-the-beaten track city and countries. Even better was called BugFest packed the hall- that captures mellow Southern a hands-on display of some 200 ways, a big outside plaza drew Dcharm, college-town hipness and toys hand-crafted by children from hundreds of nature lovers to the the history of a 210-year-old cap- 30 different countries. It was cockroach races, and a museum ital in a compact, family-friendly enlightening to see well-equipped cafe served edible insects! package. Raleigh, the biggest Across the plaza, the North and most diverse city in North Carolina History Museum Carolina's eclectic Research recalls the American Civil War Triangle can readily and inex- in a manner befitting the state's pensively entertain a family for a status as the one that supplied weekend or longer. My 6-year-old more Confederate Army soldiers daughter Corey and I romped than any other. Audio recordings through two days there and left of officers' letters home, dioramas much undone for a return trip. of bivouacs, and displays of We started, as well-planned ollicking authentic uniforms and equipment trips to Raleigh should, at Big bring the historic conflict to life. R The history museum’s top Ed's City Market Restaurant. When Big Ed Watkins extends a floor hosts a glossy sports hall of massive paw in greeting and asks, aleigh fame for stock car racing legend "Where y'all from?" you just know Richard Petty, basketball guru if it isn’t authentic country cook- Ris Michael Jordan, and other native for jocks. Admission is free to these ing, this converted downtown farmer's market won't serve it. two state museums, along with Corey and I found Ed's biscuits the North Carolina Museum standouts and the collard greens, of Art located on the outskirts grits, roast beef, and chicken amilies! of town. and dumplings didn't disappoint On Saturday morning a siz- either. Although the hand-written able flotilla of strollers pushed menu lacked kid-friendly fare by moms joined Corey and me other than grilled-cheese sand- at centrally located Pullen wiches and iced tea sweetened F Park, where a train ride circles just short of lethal, the cavernous a restored 1911 carousel and ceilings hung with antique farm pedal boats splash in a pocket gear and waitresses who call lake. Raleigh’s stately hardwoods everybody "hon" made up for – it's known as the City of Oaks the missing hot dogs and pizza. – are reflected in shade swings, Big Ed's City Market Restau- slides, playscapes and sandboxes rant shares the block with Art- Raleigh’s city market is the place in the park.You can, as we did, space, a visual arts center with to find family fun. mingle freely here and engage exhibition galleries, and education- American kids awe-struck over other visitors in conversation.You al programs including hands-on wire push-toys twisted by an can't get the full flavor of Raleigh kids' workshops and 40 artist stu- African boy and coveting a without bathing your ears in the dios. We walked off lunch while Guatemalan girl's home-made regional southern dialect and chatting with potters, painters and corncob doll. Admission at enjoying the genuine friendliness sculptors as they worked. For Exploris, one of three major of the locals. Bring a few dollars shopping, you can step outside to museums in the museum district to spend on ride tickets. browse intimate galleries and is $12.95 adults, $5.50 kids. boutiques in brick-fronted build- IMAX movie tickets are more. aleigh also offers an array ings that line the City Market dis- Everything is free for kids under 4. of dining options. After Big Ed's, trict's cobblestone streets. Nearby at North Carolina Corey and I switched to sushi and A short stroll across an adjoining Museum of Natural Sciences steak at Kanki, a local Japanese park Corey and I found Exploris, visitors can find trove of dinosaur steakhouse.R We celebrated our an exceptional interactive museum fossils, hands-on classes for little calorie-burning Pullen Park visit devoted to showcasing other cul- naturalists, a conservatory flutter- with a stop at Krispy Kreme, the tures. We had fun guessing which ing with hummingbirds and but- global cultures went with pull-out terflies, and an arthropod zoo, icky “Raleigh” continued on page 7. 6 “Raleigh” continued from page 6. room kitchens and free breakfast, donut chain founded in Winston- try downtown's William Thomas Salem in 1937. For entertainment House Bed and Breakfast and pizza, try Bullwinkle's,a ($115 and up) within walking dis- cartoon-themed dining arcade. tance of the Museum District The Mellow Mushroom, anoth- and state Capitol building. For Raleigh Journal er chain peculiar to the state of other moderately priced lodging by North Carolina options check Corey Henricks (age 6) offers a variety of with Raleigh as told to her dad, pizzas and salads Convention Mark Henricks in the gentrifying and Visitor's Glenwood Bureau, South entertain- www.raleigh y favorite part ment district. cvb.org or call of North Carolina is After the capitol toll-free 800- Bullwinkle's restau- and state govern- 849-8499. Mrant. They have a ment, Raleigh's Raleigh strad- slide and pizza. I had dominant insti- dles coast-to- on long pants and tution is North coast Interstate socks so I was the Carolina State 40 in the tem- fastest on the slide. University. The perate region of And I played games central North and won a hundred campus occupies Ed Watkins, owner of Ed’s 1,900 city acres Carolina where tickets on my first Restaurant extends his usual greeting, game. and nearly one in "Where y'all from?" the hilly Pied- 10 of the city's mont meets the My dad tried to get 300,000 population is enrolled Atlantic coastal plain. It's a five- me to eat bugs that there. The Wolfpack men's basket- hour drive from Washington, D.C., were in candy. They ball team has won two national the nearest major metro, and were in the shop at championships and rivalries with around twice that distance from the museum where Duke and the University of both Atlanta and Pittsburgh. they had dinosaurs North Carolina, located in the Raleigh-Durham Airport, and a butterfly room. other two Triangle cities of 15 minutes from downtown, is I wouldn't eat them Durham and Chapel Hill, served by several major airlines. so I bought a boom- respectively, mean Wolfpack fans Amtrak's Carolinian and erang with my own are beyond rabid. Before any in- Piedmont line connects money. season visit, check for seasonal Philadelphia and New York City. We also went to a sports tickets at www.gopack.com. park and rode a train There are more sports and carousel. My f you thought Sir Walter favorite was the boat options as well. Corey and I took Raleigh is only the setup for an in a thrilling women's profession- ride. We went to a ancient juvenile prank call, con- soccer game and I al soccer match at SAS Arena in sider taking your juveniles and which the Carolina Courage, led thought it was going yourselfI to the city named after to be just a show. But by forward Tiffany Roberts, dom- him. It's a secret too good to it was real people. inated World Cup star Brandi keep in a can. Chastain's San Jose CyberRays They were girls and 4-1 on their way to playing in the our team won. Find Contact and Resource I had fun in North 2002 Founder's Cup championship information on page 13. game. The Carolina Hurricanes Carolina. I wish we National Hockey League team could have stayed skates in the Entertainment & BBB longer and I want to Sports Arena September to April. go again. The city also hosts minor-league baseball and arena football teams. -- Mark Henricks enjoys traveling We stayed at an economical with his daughter, Corey. Contact BB him at [email protected] or ($50 double-occupancy) and at www.markhenricks.com family-friendly suites hotel, the Homewood near suburban Crabtree Valley Mall. If you prefer intimate convenience to in-

7 although y son some M Miles entrances and I live in TheThe are private- the Pacific ly owned. Northwest At Mauna where win- BigBig IslandIsland Kea, we ters are cool, drove to wet and the resort seemingly ofof entrance, unending. declared With a little HawaiiHawaii that we’d research I by only be vis- discovered iting for the that Hawaii’s Kimberly J. Davis day, and Big Island the atten- would offer dant kindly us the sun gave us a and warmth parking we craved, as pass and well as some wished us exciting re- an enjoy- creation, for able visit. our March Mauna spring break Overlooking Waipio Valley – Valley of the Kings, a place of beauty and inspiration. Kea Beach vacation. Beach State Park about 35 min- large and The island of Hawaii, called the utes from Kailua on the South roomy –making it easy to escape Big Island, is five times the size Kohala Coast. the small crowd huddled down at of the next largest island of Maui, Hapuna Beach State Park the resort end of the beach. The yet contains only 13% of the maintains six primitive A-frame setting is also spectacular: smooth state’s population. Rather than cabins for an unbeatable price of white sand, clear turquoise water ritzy resorts, high rises and packed $20 a night. Each cabin faces and several trees for shade should beaches, the Big Island is better west providing outstanding ocean you tire of the sun. (The Mauna characterized by its rural character views. The cabins have sleeping Kea Resort has been closed due to and unhurried pace. It’s a great space for four (long wooden earthquake damage, the beach is open.) place to go if you seek adventure benches – bring your sleeping mixed with ample doses of peace bags and pads) as well as an orry to leave the South and quiet. indoor picnic table and electric S Being a budget-conscious single Kohala area (four nights at lights. Full bathroom and kitchen Hapuna Beach State Park would mother as well as an outdoors facilities enthusiast, we decided to camp be perfect), are locat- we next ven- out for the majority of our trip. I ed a few had never really heard of anyone tured an hour yards east over the camping in Hawaii, but how hard away. could it be? Turns out that mountains to Hapuna the Hamakua camping in Hawaii is fairly easy Beach and definitely worthwhile – so Coast.We was an were now on long as you plan ahead and know excellent where to go. the wet side of base for the island and exploring the change was ike most vacationers, we the dramatic: L South Mauna Kea Beach is one of the most flew into Hawaii’s tiny Kailua- beautiful beaches in Hawaii. instead of bar- Kona International Airport on Kohala ren lava and dry the dry side of the island. After Coast and the Big Island’s finest grass, we found the landscape getting our rental car, we drove beaches. Since Miles was only lush and green. 10 minutes south into Kailua- five, we sought beaches with Soon Miles and I arrived at Kona to grab groceries, ice, and gentle surf. Our favorite was Kalopa Recreation Area to find propane. We then turned north Mauna Kea Beach. In Hawaii, we had the pretty campground all all beaches are public property, again and headed to Hapuna “Hawaii” continued on page 9. 8 “Hawaii” continued from page 8. packing up our very soggy tent volcano, as a backdrop. It also to ourselves. After quickly setting Miles asked, “Can we go back to ended up being the more centrally up our tent, we explored the the dry side now, Mom?” located of the two campgrounds grounds to find a 3/4-mile native Agreeing with my son that sun for exploring the park. forest trail dominated by ohia was preferable to rain, we left the trees and towering tree ferns. We Hamakua Coast, drove southeast also peeked at the accommoda- around the island – stopping briefly Volcanoes National Park is tions – six large cabins perfect for at a laundromat in Hilo to dry a place everyone should see in large families or group gatherings. our soggy gear – and reached your lifetime. The diversity of the The next morning Miles and I Hawaii Volcanoes National park is astounding: tropical tree took a short drive over to the Park two days ahead of schedule. fern forests, dry stark desert, Waipi’o Valley. Known as the The friendly kiosk attendant black lava fields that seem to go Valley of the Kings,Waipi’o is informed us that Kulanaokuaiki on forever, dramatic ocean cliffs considered a sacred valley and Campground tended to be a bit and views, and majestic Mauna birthplace of Loa rising nearly Hawaiian civi- 14,000 feet above lization. The sea level. On our valley, one mile visit Miles and I wide at the explored giant coast and six craters, lava tubes, miles deep, and steam vents, plummets more and we also took than 2000 feet several short hikes. from its sur- But by far the high- rounding cliffs. light of our visit The sheer cliffs was our encounter and abundant with Kilauea. rainfall have Kilauea is Hawaii’s given rise only volcano that is to a lush, presently active. verdant (Mauna Loa is also valley considered an active rimmed volcano but has not with erupted since 1984.) numerous Kilauea is continu- waterfalls. ally releasing lava On our Kilauea’s eruptions of molten lava(left) that slowly meanders make their way down the slopes to the ocean, downhill toward the hike crossing roads (above) always adding to down we saw taro patches, tropi- the Big Island (below). ocean. To get to the cal fruit tree orchards, and tame, lava, you drive all the wild horses that were very inter- way down the Chain ested in our peanut butter sand- of Craters Road to wiches. It took about an hour to the southern tip of the hike all the way down to the black National Park. From sand beach. Soon after our arrival there it’s an arduous the sky darkened, heavy winds 2.5-mile hike over kicked up and enormous waves craggy black lava pounded the shore. fields (bring lots of water and sunscreen!). Although a little It was that afternoon that the drier than the closer, more popular hard going for my 5-year-old son wet side of the island lived up to campground. Without hesitation, Miles, the hike was well worth its name. By the time Miles and I we headed for Kulanaokuaiki, the effort. hiked all the way out of Waipi’o with our fingers crossed for sun. Seeing that red, hot oozing lava Valley and back to our car we We were not disappointed. Not and feeling its radiant heat was were soaked, though exhilarated only did it stop raining once we breathtaking and unforgettable. from the adventure. The elation reached Kulanaokuaiki, but the As if seeing the flowing lava passed however when we returned peaceful campground had beauti- wasn’t enough, we were rewarded to our campsite to discover that ful scenery including Mauna again once we hiked back to the I’d left the tent flaps open. After Loa, the world’s most massive “Hawaii” continued on page 10. 9 “Hawaii” continued from page 9. coral reefs teeming with tropical trailhead. Now being dusk we fish and green sea turtles. My 5- RECOMMENDED were able to see what had been year-old and I snorkeled for hours CAMPING & CABINS: disguised by sunlight earlier: the each day and had fun snapping Hapuna Beach broad mountainside above us pictures with our underwater State Park glowed with molten lava that disposable camera. Not having (South Kohala Coast) slowly streamed down its sides. experience, we skipped the kayak- Six A-frame shelters It was a bit like watching a large ing opportunities but made a only. Primitive and shared forest fire only more awe-inspiring mental note for future visits. restrooms and showers. and less threatening. Overall our 10-day trip to the Across the road from the After two Big Island was marvelously pleas- beach. nights at ant and fun. I Volcanoes highly recom- http://www.hawaii.gov National mend rough- /dlnr/dsp/hawaii.html Park, we ing it in lieu 808-587-0300 continued of hitting the Kalopa State our clock- spendy resorts. Recreation Area wise journey While some (Hamakua Coast) around the of the camp- 2000 feet elevation. island and grounds on Cabins and campsites for stayed our the island are tents. Day picnicking and last four a bit seedy, easy nature hikes nights in the ones men- including a 2-mile the South horse loop trail. Kona http://www.hawaii.gov Miles snorkels along /dlnr/dsp/hawaii.html side one of Hawaii’s 808-587-0300 green sea turtles at Kahalulu Beach Hawaii Volcanoes State Park, a popular National Park beach for all. (Kilauea Volcano) Two campgrounds, region. We checked Namakani Paio (located out a few public off Highway 11), and campgrounds on the Kulanaokuaiki (located way, but they seemed off Hilina Pali Road), dingy and uninviting. free with paid entry into We ended up opting the park. Reservations, for the Manago permits, and check-ins Hotel in Captain are not required. Cook. This 1917 building, while a little http://www.hawaii. run-down, had a lot volcanoes.nationalpark. com/camping.htm of character, and our 808-587-0300 water-view room with balcony was only $50 Hawaii State: per night. Dept. of Natural Land & Resources Miles and I http://www.hawaii. found Captain Cook volcanoes.nationalpark an excellent base for .com/camping.htm 808-587-0300 the remainder of our Big Island tioned in this article are great. trip. The region is popular for Taking a more low-key approach Hawaii County: two reasons: snorkeling and with your accommodations has Parks and Recreation kayaking. For snorkeling, we the double advantage of saving http://www.hawaiicounty found two spots well suited for you money as well as allowing .com/parks/parks.htm young children, Kahalu’u Beach you to feel more like a local than 808-961-8311 and Ke’ei Beach. Both beaches a tourist. B have sheltered waters and shallow 10 Smugglers Notch: For grandparents in search of a watch mine!" A great place for grandparents bonding experience and never to The condos are conducive to to bond with kids. be forgotten memories, Smugglers comfort. Cozy, clean, and quiet, Notch is the answer. Families many have fireplaces and sweep- A grandparent's job, in my return, year-after-year, some with ing views of the Green Mountains. opinion, is to sprinkle stardust into several generations in tow. They also come with washers and the lives of their grandchildren. I met one of these families on a dryers and fully-equipped kitchens. Sometimes that stardust is made snowshoeing trek from the Nordic Grandparents may choose to of sand, as in beach vacations, Center, an adventure center offer- cook in-room, or visit one of the and other times it involves snow, ing cross-country skiing, ice skat- restaurants. I sampled a little bit as in skiing and snow- of everything: pizza at men and sledding and Riga-Bello's, monkfish at skating. A grandparent the cozy country restau- needs to be in suffi- rant Hearth and Candle, cient shape however, to a hot fudge sundae at handle these latter four Ben and Jerry's Scoop “S” words. Shop, a delicious chicken One of the best salad sandwich at the places in the U.S. for Green Mountain Deli, a these four "S" words bountiful breakfast buffet is Smugglers at the Morse Notch, a winter Mountain Grille, wonderland of oo a bowl of steam- snow activities ll ppe TTakeake toto thethe SS es!s! ing chili at Green and mountain Smugglers Notch Peppers, and a resort sprawling fresh salad at the Black across the heart of A Great Place for Grandparents to Bond with Kids and A Sweet Treat for Teens. Bear Tavern. And located Vermont's Green just 100 yards across the Mountains. Travel- Blue Mountain Ski road from the resort, ers, either driving or Stay and Play in Pennsylvania Stella Notte Restaurant shuttled in from serves up scrumptious nearby Burlington airport or ing, and snow shoeing. A plethora Italian cuisine made from Vermont Essex Junction train station, begin of choices includes the popular country products. Tables flicker- to relax the moment they arrive. Snowshoe Night Tour, the Family ing with candlelight, the restaurant Catering especially to families, Snowshoe Cider Walk, and Fire- is a special treat at night and see- Smugglers Notch is a colorful works and Snowshoes. I chose the ing the stars of frosty New Eng- village that contains a variety of Forest Heritage trek, led by land with one's grandchildren is an eateries, a Country Store, the nature and fitness expert Zeke experience not Mountain Massage Center, and Zucker. Zeke's reverence for Making every to be missed. an ice-skating rink as well as a the forest and trails and trees Despite its Nordic Center, a Fun Zone, sever- grandchild's day is is obvious, and in his speech a snowmobile tour elegance, the al teen centers, a daycare center, one senses a sacred respect cordial owners and 5 communities of condomini- for nature. My trail mates - or dog sled ride. are very open um housing. Founded in the early Joan and Jack from Brooklyn - to serving fami- 1960s, Smugglers Notch has were visiting with their lies, many with a slew of chatter- grown with the A plethora of choices grandchildren. ing, squirming youngsters in tow. times, offering "This has been an For those travelers with artistic a modern includes the popular amazing experience," leanings, Smugglers Notch offers smorgasbord Snowshoe Night Tour, Joan said. "Love, the innovative Artists In The of choices for Family Snowshoe Cider bonding, fun, laugh- Mountains program with classes families. High- ter, education, enter- in beading, painting, sculpting, tech amenities Walk, and Fireworks tainment. Our grand- glass etching, and stenciling. The – including & Snowshoes. parent/grandchild Snowman Family Painting class is wireless com- vacation is everything a popular choice for grandparents puter access in the rooms, X-Box we could have dreamed." and children. in the teen center, the newest of "I like that there's a TV in every Making every grandchild's day snow equipment, and a Glowball bedroom," said Joan's grand- is a snowmobile tour or dog sled Dance party – blend seamlessly daughter. "And one in the living ride. "My grandson says this is with the mountains and natural room, too! Granny can watch her the most fun he's ever had," beauty of surrounding forests. show, Pop-Pop watches his, and I “Slopes” continued on page 12. 11

“Slopes” continued from page 11. For you and the kids be sure to heated pool, arcade, a Fun Zone enthused one woman with a rosy- bring your "S" clothes: swimsuits with awesome activities, pizza, cheeked cherub waving goodbye and snowsuits. The smiling em- Ben & Jerry's Scoop Shop, and to the sled dogs. ployees all seem happy and the nighttime hangouts such as Teen Snow Sport University offers on-demand shuttles save energy Alley (for ages 13-15) and The ski and snowboard lessons for all for the important stuff. Outer Limits. X-Box, internet, levels, guaranteeing that each Grandparents with a goal of Playstation, pool tables, popcorn, member of the family will learn sprinkling stardust in grandchil- and camaraderie abound in the to ski or dren's lives “no-parents” zone. Movie viewers snowboard find it easy will find the Country Store well or will at Smugglers stocked with the newest of improve Notch. movies for rent. their tech- The snow The 12-20 set will also dig the nique. Also sparkles like condominium housing. Units are check out diamonds in large and comfortable, with lots Sir Henry's the sunlight, of options for privacy including Learning & and as every TVs in every bedroom so that Fun Park, Sinatra fan everyone can watch their own serviced by over the age shows. On-demand shuttle a "magic of 50 knows, service ensures that independent there’s noth- teens can make their way alone carpet," Moon over Madonna Mountain and the at Smugglers Notch. ing quite across the sprawling property. Children's like the moon Sweeeeeeet! FunFeast pizza party that light in Vermont. For further information: includes appearances by the I'll bring my grandson Connor www.smuggs.com resort mascots Billy Bob Bear to Smugglers Notch as soon as he and Mogul Mouse. For grand- can walk. He has no idea of the magic that awaits. It's sweet as Blue Mountain Ski children who are skipping school, Stay and Play in Pennsylvania there's The Sorcerer's Study Hall, maple sugar. with academic tricks by Marko For further information: Kids won't be blue at Blue The Magician. There's the Cook- www.smuggs.com Mountain Ski of Pennsylvania. ie Race for the tiny tots, and Air- The 30-trail resort is well known boarding for extreme teens. Kids for its Explorer Program, a session of all ages are entertained by the Smugglers Notch: for kids ages 4-12. "It's way cool!" Fun Zone, a huge inflatable tent A Sweet Treat for Teens said 6-year-old Blaine, visiting filled with even more inflatable A far-out winter wonderland with his parents from Ohio. climbing courses, as well as the of radical challenging slopes and For the Stay-and-Play crowd, old-fashioned games of mini golf, cool terrain parks, Smugglers there are many fine accommoda- ping pong, and basketball. Notch is also sweet for teens. The tions nestled at the foot of the For families with infants and Vermont ski resort is the first and mountain in Danielsville. One toddlers there's Treasures, a state- only location on the East Coast of the best is the Filbert Bed & of-the-art childcare center for ages to offer the extreme sport of Air- Breakfast (www.filbertbnb.com). 6 weeks to 3 years. The large cen- boarding. Flying headfirst at high Built in the early 1800s, the Vic- ter features giant fish tanks in speeds down the face of a moun- torian farmhouse and general every room, tiny toilets and sinks, tain is not for the faint of heart. store is a great place for families ski-in/ski-out convenience, one- This is like boogie boarding, only to reconnect with history and with way mirror viewing for parents on snow. Participants lie stomach- one another. The 60-foot-porch is and grandparents, and heated down on inflatable boards. Hel- a cozy place for an old-fashioned snowmelt walkways. mets are required, and so is dare- game of checkers (weather per- Other family fun features at devilry. mitting), and the large sitting Smugglers Notch include the hot Snow Sport University guaran- room is perfect for board games, chocolate warm up around the tees that teens will learn to snow- cards, popcorn, and movies. bonfire, Bingo Blast, family board or ski, or improve their Hostess/Innkeeper Kathy Silfies karaoke and dance parties, technique. Instructors at Smug- is cordial, serving up hot chocolate Hawaiian Hula Parties, tubing glers Notch are super-friendly and freshly-baked cookies with all parties, Showtime, lap swims, a and hip, able to connect with the the grace of a bygone era. sled-building class, a video arcade, most jaded of teenagers. Warmly welcoming well-behaved and the indoor heated pool and Smugglers Notch offers choices children to Filbert B&B, Kathy hot tubs at SmuggsCentral. for teens including an indoor interacts well with her young “Slopes” continued on page 13. 12 “Slopes” continued from page 12. visitors. "She was nice," said teen “Raleigh” continued from page 7) Shawn McDowell. "She even watched my yo-yo tricks." CONTACTS AND RESOURCES The general store at Filbert B&B is an intriguing, educational DINING: treat with its pressed tin ceiling, Big Ed's City Market Entertainment & Sports Arena 1400 Edwards Mill Road original wooden store counters, Restaurant 220 Wolfe Street Raleigh NC 27607 dry bins, and original old shelving 919-861-2300 filled with antique merchandise. Raleigh, NC 27601 919-836-9909 www.rbccenter The general store can be reserved for special events and Bullwinkle's Family North Carolina Museum families often hold children’s Food & Fun of Art parties in the oldtime space. The 1040 Buck Jones Road 2110 Blue Ridge Road store isn't the only educational Raleigh, NC 27606 Raleigh NC 27607 aspect of the Filbert Bed and 919-319-7575 (919) 839-6262 Breakfast. Visitors staying in www.ncartmuseum.org Grammy Ruth's suite enjoy the Kanki Japanese House Exploris Museum original indoor water cistern of Steaks and Sushi 4325 Glenwood Ave. 201 East Hargett St. from earlier times. The fragile Raleigh NC 27601 wallpaper dates from the 1800s Raleigh NC 27612 919-782-9708 919-834-4040 and the woodwork is untouched. www.exploris.org There's an antique chandelier Krispy Kreme and period furniture. The splen- 549 N. Person Street North Carolina State dor of the Filbert is relaxing and Raleigh, NC 27604-1299 University (for tickets) comfortable after a long day on 919-833-3682 Box 8502 the slopes, and guests sleep in Raleigh NC 27695-8501 peaceful quiet in this country Mellow Mushroom (919)515-2106 retreat. 601 Peace St. www.gopack.com Located on sprawling six-acres Raleigh, NC 27605 919-832-3499 Pullen Park complete with a barn, Filbert 520 Ashe Avenue B&B is a convenient five-minute Raleigh NC 27606 drive to the slopes of Blue FUN AND EDUCATION: 919-865-1510 Mountain Ski Area. Kathy's Artspace www.raleigh-nc.org/parks breakfasts are delicious, nourish- 201 East Davie St &rec/pullenpark.htm ing snow lovers before a day in Raleigh, NC 27601 919-821-2787 the brisk mountain air. During LODGING: www.artspacenc.org warmer months Filbert B&B William Thomas Bed guests enjoy nearby bird watch- and Breakfast ing, whitewater rafting, and an North Carolina Museum of Natural Sciences 530 North Blount Street operating drive-in movie theatre. 11 W. Jones St. Raleigh NC 27604 Raleigh NC 27601 800-653-3466 For further information: www.williamthomashouse.com www.filbertbnb.com 877-4NATSCI www.naturalsciences.org www.skibluemt.com Homewood Suites Raleigh- www.beckysdi.com North Carolina Museum Crabtree, N.C. 5400 Homewood Banks Dr BBBBB of History 5 East Edenton Street Raleigh, NC 27612 Raleigh NC 27601 919-785-1131 --Linda Oatman High is an (919) 807-7900 author of books for children www.ncmuseumofhistory.org and teens who lives in Lancaster GENERAL INFORMATION: Greater Raleigh Convention County, Pennsylvania. She is Carolina Courage a mother of two sons, and the & Visitors Bureau (Women’s Soccer) 421 Fayetteville Street Mall grandmother of a 2-year-old. www.wusa.com Linda offers writing workshops Suite 1505 Raleigh NC 27601 and school presentations across Carolina Hurricanes 800-849-8499 the U.S. and Europe. (Hockey League) www.raleighcvb.org Contact Linda at www.hurricanes.nhl.com www.lindaoatmanhigh.com; [email protected] 13

US Highway 20 From Casper, Wyoming to Newport, Oregon

“This land is your land.This land is my land.” u– Woody Guthrie ometime in the late 1940s my Adults $6, less for seniors, students, critter supposedly half antelope parents decided to visit my youth, and children 3 to 5. and half jackrabbit! You’ll also Sgrandparents in California. The Next,20 we visited Fort Caspar spot long coal trains riding the only part of the trip from Wiscon- Museum (www.fortcasparwyoming. rails from open pit coal mines sin I remember was being pulled com) on the North Platte River north of Douglas. Coal from over by a police officer in Cody, where a small fort, Platte Bridge these Thunder Basin coal fields Wyoming. I think we drove Station, housed soldiers who ultimately produces electricity for through Yellowstone National protected the area in early pio- families from Minnesota to Park. But like many trips in those neer days. Skirmishes with local Atlanta, GA. days it was goal oriented – get native tribes resulted in the death In the town of Casper you can there as fast as possible. Now, of Lt. Caspar Collins. The fort pause to visit museums and take with interstate highways, motor- was named for him and was later side trips along the Oregon- ing from here to there is even rebuilt by the Civilian Conserva- California-Mormon-Pony faster. But I think we miss much tion Corps. It contains artifacts Express Trail to Independence of the history, ecology, people, and replicas of army life and in Rock and to the Mormon and places that make our Handcart Visitors Cen- country special. So here’s ter (www.casperwyoming. the plan – gather the kids info/mormon.php). Some of and/or grandkids, adopt a the names etched into different mind set, and Independence Rock are take time to mine U.S. replicated at the entrance Highway 20 for its many to the National Historic hidden gems.(...continued Trails Interpretive from the Summer ‘06 issue.) Center (http://www.blm. gov/wy/st/en/NHTIC.html). Day One Wyoming is a geologist’s Day Two paradise. On a road trip On the way to across the state on Highway Thermopolis, WY you 20 the craggy mountains can imagine the native and intriguing striations of tribes, early trappers, and rock show eons of time in U.S. Cavalry soldiers earth’s geologic history.We traveling through the learned along the way that Hell’s Half Acre, one of Wyoming’s geologic wonders. desolate high desert area. Wyoming is the second Photo courtesy of roadsideamerica.com At Hell’s Half Acre,a miniature Grand Canyon, largest state in the U.S. and the nearby museum you can native tribal members in early it is also the least populated. learn the history of the town, days herded buffalo over the rim We continue our trip across browse descriptions of oil in order to gain meat and hides. Wyoming west toward the Oregon drilling, and see the replica of a This geologic oddity is a craggy coast from Casper, WY at the sheepherder’s wagon. Adults $2. horseshoe-shaped gorge that drops National Historic Trails When we first crossed the east- some 150 feet from the flat plain. Interpretive Center http://www. ern border of Wyoming we stopped The 320-acre gorge spreads south blm.gov/wy/st/en/NHTIC.html.We in Lusk and visited the Stage and is filled in one section with had ended the first leg of our Coach Museum. Here we saw jagged rock spires sculpted by the Highway 20 journey here to what the early prospectors rode Powder River. Alien bug planet Casper. The interpretive center on their treks up to the gold scenes for the movie Starship has added a stage coach ride, not fields in the Black Hills. Troopers (1997) were filmed here. as bumpy as you’d see in a movie Driving along Interstate 25 You can park at the entrance and western but realistic enough for near Douglas see if the kids can walk to the edge of the canyon to the kids to enjoy. Summer hours 8 spot the large silhouette of the see the gnarled rock spires. A.M. to 7 P.M.,winter 9 A.M. to jackalope, a mythical western 4:30 P.M.Tuesday through Saturday. “Highway 20” continued on page 15. 14

“Highway 20” continued from page 14. dug irrigation canals and brought Over the Fourth of July the Finally we meet the Wind water into the Big Horn Basin. town of Cody offers lively rodeos River and follow it up the Wind This irrigation water transformed every night along with a big River Canyon. Notice the signs the dry desert into a farming and stampede. If you and the kids and turn-outs where you can stop ranching oasis in the Worland and haven’t overdosed on frontier life, to marvel at the interesting geolog- Greybull areas. check out Old Trail Town on the ic formations revealed by the Just a few miles northeast of way out of Cody to see the grave Wind River.You’ll see the Pre- Greybull the Howe Dinosaur of John “Liver Eating” Johnson cambrian granite, gneiss, and Quarry shows where, in the better known from the film as schist formed some 2 billion 1930s, an Allosaurus skeleton Jeremiah Johnson.Worland’s Hole- years ago. Next, in-the-Wall cabin is Cambrian shale also on the site. topped by bright Day Four red Triassic silt- From Cody High- stone, then Creta- way 20 climbs along ceous layers of the North Fork of sandstone and the Shoshone shale, and, finally, River and Buffalo Tertiary volcanic Bill Dam and rock merging to Reservoir to shale and sand- Yellowstone stone. National Park. The town of Highway 20 tem- Thermopolis,a porarily ends here fine place to pause but resumes at the awhile, features the park’s west portal. Wyoming In 1902, Bill Cody opened Irma’s Hotel, named for his youngest daughter We pass through Dinosaur Center Irma. It’s still in operation, come check out the restaurant and hotel. several tunnels carved & Dig Sites out of the Precambrian rock of was uncovered – a precursor of (www.wyodino.org), Dancing Rattlesnake Mountain. Passing the Tyrannosaurus rex. Just west Bear Folk Center, Hot Springs numerous hot springs along the of town is the Greybull Museum County Historical Museum, river we begin to notice odors of Flight, which appears from Hot Springs County Museum, from the various chemicals in the the highway to be an airplane and Old West Wax Museum. steaming waters, which smells graveyard.You’ll see a number At Hot Springs State park you like sulphur and rotten eggs. of large airplanes parked next and the kids can soak in the hot Some 50 million years ago to the runway. spring waters in several locations. volcanic mountains in the region Signs along Highway 20, as you Check with the Thermopolis erupted depositing thick, muddy come to Cody, identify the area Visitor Information Center mixtures of rock and ash debris as part of the Bozeman Trail. (www.thermopolis.com), for lodging across the area. Over eons wind The town was named after Buffalo and eateries in the area. and water erosion then created Bill Cody and by 1902 the town unusual castle-like forms called was incorporated. Buffalo Bill Day Three “hoodoos” out of this residue. Here travelers can take the opened a hotel named for his Yellowstone National Park is Highway 120 short cut to Cody, youngest daughter, Irma and it a fascinating experience in WY or continue on Highway 20 remains a restaurant and hotel nature’s geologic wonderland so which follows the Big Horn for travelers (www.irmahotel.com). be sure to take time to stop and River to first visit Worland in Pick up a copy of “Cody Coun- visit the many bubbling hot Washakie County. Worland is try Magazine” from the Visitor springs (look for signs and turn- named for its founder, Charles Information Center (www.cody outs), see Old Faithful erupt in Worland, who established the chamber.org) and plan your visit a steaming column near Old Hole-in-the-Wall Saloon.In to include the Shoshone Dam Faithful Lodge (lots of parking earlier days this was a favorite and Reservoir now called The available here), walk easy trails watering place for Butch Cassidy Buffalo Bill Dam. to scenic waterfalls, and ogle and his gang of outlaws. Notice The Buffalo Bill Historical at the wildlife. in the center of town the statue Center on Cody’s main street is Once inside the park plan a full of a pioneer woman spreading a good stop for western history day’s exploration. Maps provided seeds. This depicts the efforts of buffs (www.bbhc.org). Adults $15 at the Ranger Station show that Charles Worland and the early with lower rates for seniors, youth, pioneer men and women who and children. “Highway 20” continued on page 16. 15

“Highway 20” continued from page 15. way 20 the terrain turns from exhibits. There is a charge for most sites are on loop roads off potato farms back to sagebrush entrance and for camping. A 7- the main roadway. Be patient and lava rock. The Oregon Trail mile loop road leads to various because the going is slow and met the Snake River at Fort Hall sites including a lava cave, lava there are lots of travelers just like south of Idaho Falls. Several tubes, and trails for hiking and you and your family in the park, alternate routes served the early bicycling. all ogling at herds of buffalo, emigrants including Goodale’s At Carey, we continue west on antelope, and elk in addition to Cutoff which turns north from Highway 20 to Picabo which is occasional bears. Do not feed the Fort Hall and connects with U.S. noted for trout fishing and the animals. For lodging and eateries Highway 20. In those days the Nature Conservancy site at in the area check the park’s web cut-off journey took two to three Silver Creek. Travelers then site and stop at Visitor Informa- weeks and for some 50 years cross Highway 75, which heads tion Centers and Ranger Stations westbound pioneers used it. either north about 30 miles to the along the way and in Later, miners moving ore to resort communities of Hailey, West Yellowstone. Ketchum, and Sun Leaving the park by Valley or south about way of the West Portal 50 miles to the city of via Highway 20 travel- Twin Falls on Interstate ers pass through West 84. The town of Hailey Yellowstone, Montana offers numerous lodging and then continue accommodations and west into Idaho cross- eateries. ing the Continental Continuing west on Divide at Targhee Highway 20 travelers Pass (7,072-ft. eleva- pass through the small tion). From Henry’s towns of Fairfield and Lake State Park to Hill City and then con- Island Park you’ll tinue over 5,527-ft. Cat pass through pine tree A replica of Fort Boise can be viewed in Parma, Idaho.The original Creek Summit and angle country and the route adobe fort was destroyed in the 1853 and 1862 Boise river floods. south to the city of also is dotted with numerous Mountain Home on convenience stores, eateries, gas railroad depots and stagecoaches Interstate 84. stations, and campgrounds. carrying passengers to southern Continue from here to Boise, The route runs along a 2 million Idaho towns also took Goodale’s the major city in this section of year old caldera, the remains of a Cutoff. southern Idaho. Boise also offers collapsed volcano. Past Island The town of Arco, Idaho, orig- lodging accommodations and a Park a 25-mile side loop on High- inally a stage stop, is hoping for host of eateries. For camping and way 47 takes travelers to scenic redevelopment of its National hiking be sure to check with either Mesa Falls. Returning to High- Reactor Testing Station, renamed the Mountain Home Visitor way 20 at Ashton, you return to the Idaho National Laboratory. Information Center or the the high desert area. At the Pickle Palace Café in Boise Visitor Information Ashton is famous for its Russet Arco, home of the “atomic burg- Center (www.boise.org) to obtain Burbank seed potatoes. Rexsburg, er,” locals stop for morning coffee maps and road information before originally a Mormon town, now and discuss getting jobs at the lab heading off the beaten path. caters to summer travelers and if employment increases there. In Boise, pause and visit the offers an antique wooden carousel As we approach Craters of the splendid Basque Museum at Porter Park. The former Moon (www.nps.gov/crmo) the (www.basquemuseum.com), which Rexsburg Tabernacle, on the terrain becomes a sea of three celebrates the culture of the National Register of Historic Sites, lava flows, cinder cones, lava tubes, Basque peoples who came to live offers a museum that explains the and sage brush covering nearly in the area from southern Europe. 1976 flood when the earth filled 500,000 acres. The expanded Also, visit the Idaho Botanical Teton Dam broke and wiped out Monument and Preserve are co- Gardens found on the grounds most of the town. managed by the National Park of the former Idaho Penitentiary. Service (NPS) and the Bureau of Check at the Boise Visitor Day Five Land Management (BLM). The Center (www.boise.org) for At Idaho Falls, Idaho, Highway area was used for training the directions to the Oregon Trail 20 meets and leaves Interstate 15 Apollo astronauts before their Historic Reserve where you and known as the gold road which space flight to the moon. Pause at the kids can walk a 1-mile trail to followed the route to the gold the Visitors Center to see inter- fields in the north. Along High- pretive programs and geologic “Highway 20” continued on page 17. 16

“Highway 20” continued from page 16. same trip in early days took two and pleasant eateries in Burns. view wagon ruts made by the full days and one night for the stagecoaches to complete. If time Day Seven pioneer wagons. Gas up in Burns and continue allows, stop for picnic supplies west on Highway 20 another and beverages in Burns and Day Six couple of hours to the large resort From Boise head west on Inter- then head south on Highway 78 town of Bend. Hosted by numer- state 84 and cross into Oregon about 40 miles to visit the ous lodging alternatives and at Ontario where you can rejoin Malheur Wildlife Refuge (www. Highway 20.You could also dozens of eateries, browse detour at the large Visitor (www.visitbend.com), there are Information Center just west several places to visit in the of Boise, off I-84, for maps and Bend area before continuing helpful information before west on Highway 20 toward entering Oregon. To learn more Sisters. As time allows, visit about the various cultures of the splendid Oregon High the region stop in Ontario to Desert Museum just 5 miles visit the Four Rivers Cultural south of Bend via Highway 97; Center (www.4rcc.com), which five miles farther south stop offers exhibits and information for more volcanic exhibits, about the northern Paiute tribe wide vistas of the Cascade and also the Basque, Spanish, Mountains, and nature trails and Japanese cultures whose at Lava Butte and Lava descendents live in the Treasure Lands Visitor Center (541- Valley area. If time allows stop 493-2421); and, if you can at the Ontario Visitor Center spend the entire day and stay (www.ontariochamber.com, 541- overnight in the Bend area, be 889-8012), also located at the sure to take snacks and bever- cultural center, for information ages and walk the self guided about lodging and eateries in trail at Lava River Cave in The Yaquina Bay Lighthouse is one of Oregon’s Lava River Caves State Park the area. popular tourist attractions. Continuing west on Highway just south of Lava Butte (wear sweaters or coats and pick up 20 from Ontario, we see wide irri- r1.fws.gov/malheur). At refuge lanterns at the entry); then head a gated fields of onions and other headquarters on the south shore short distance south of here and vegetables on our way to the small of Malheur Lake stop for maps about 10 miles east of Sunriver town of Vale. Park in the down- and information and also visit the Resort on a Forest Service road town area and take a walking tour George M. Benson Memorial to enjoy the self guided trail at to see a number of colorful Museum where you can see Lava Cast Forest. Plan a couple murals painted on the buildings’ mounted specimens of more than of hours for each of these splen- exteriors. The murals, designed 200 different migratory birds. On did outdoor adventures before and painted by local artists and the refuge drive slowly and remain returning to Bend. volunteers, depict scenes from on posted roadways; your vehicle the Oregon Trail journey. At the makes a good observation and Day Eight Malheur Crossing marker locat- photographic blind for watching From Bend head west again on ed between the bridges on the the wildlife. This will allow you Highway 20 and pause to see the east edge of Vale, notice the deep and the kids to ogle at dozens of western style town of Sisters. ruts left by the heavy pioneer species of water birds and water The friendly town offers shops, wagons as they pulled up the fowl that arrive and depart via the cafes, bakeries, and coffee shops grade after crossing the river. The Pacific Flyway. Also ask about the along the main street (Highway pioneers entered what is now Kiger Mustang Viewing Area 20) as well as on several side Oregon at old Fort Boise, Idaho near Diamond and ghost towns streets. From here continue west just a few miles east of Nyssa. in the area. To stay overnight in on Highway 20 and climb to The fort was a fur trading post this primeval high desert area far 4,817-ft. Santiam Pass dropping established in 1834 by the British off the beaten path, you could down toward the Willamette Hudson’s Bay Company. arrange rooms at tiny Frenchglen Valley and passing through the Continuing west on Highway Hotel (541-493-2825) or at towns of Sweet Home and 20 we pass the hamlet of Juntura Hotel Diamond (www.central- Lebanon. At Lebanon detour onto and come to the larger town of oregon.com/hoteldiamond; 541-493- Highway 34, cross over Interstate Burns (www.harneycounty.com). 1898) both located in hamlets near 5, and rejoin Highway 20 at Taking only two hours or so to the refuge.You can also check Corvallis. From here continue drive from Vale to Burns this out numerous accommodations “Highway 20” continued on page 18. 17

“Highway 20” continued from page 17. Ocean. From the glacier-sculpted west on Highway 20 to Philomath Midwest to the flat prairies of BOOKS FOR YOU AND THE KIDS Iowa and Nebraska, from the and continue west another 50 “How Mountains Are Made” high desert of Wyoming to the miles or so over the low Coast for beginner readers. “The immense and craggy Rocky Range to Toledo and Newport Earth Origins” and on the Oregon coast. “Evolution” for young Highway 20 ends here readers. “The Visual and deposits travelers Dictionary of the onto U.S. 101, which Earth” and “The extends along the Pacific Amateur Geologist” Ocean north toward for older readers. Lincoln City and Astoria and south TRIP IDEAS toward Bandon, Gold Set up a 3-ring Beach, and Brookings. binder for each of the Portland can be kids with notebook accessed from Lincoln paper, pocket dividers, City using Highway 18 and maps. Have them heading east toward list interesting names, McMinnville and Digging for clams during the low tide is a European and Native Newberg. popular past time on the Oregon coast. American, as well as In Newport be sure to visit the names of towns and cities Historic Bayfront area with its Mountains, and from the forests along the route. fish processing plants and eateries and volcanic deserts of Idaho Encourage your kids to as well as the renovated Historic west to the high lava lands desert ask questions and to look for Nye Beach District. Also visit of Central Oregon and the lush information on the internet Yaquina Bay State Park and Willamette Valley, travelers find about places they will visit Yaquina Bay Lighthouse just their final sunset at the Pacific such as Yellowstone National north of town. The Oregon Ocean near Newport on the central Park, Craters of the Moon Coast Aquarium (www. Oregon coast.You can imagine the National Monument, and aquarium.org) is just south of native peoples, the early fur trap- the Oregon Coast. Help town near the Yaquina Bay pers, and the Indian and deer them follow the route on bridge and offers splendid trails. Then, later, you can help their maps you pick up at underwater views of sea life as the kids learn about the emigrant Visitor Information Centers well as open pools for sea otters trails, wagon trains, and the rail- and Welcome Centers along and seals. roads reaching west and taking the way. At the nearby Hatfield Marine over the native lands.You can Your kids will enjoy Science Center you and the help them remember the cow- making new friends along kids can see more sea creatures boys, the ranchers, and farmers the route, exchanging names including a live octopus and as well as the Cavalry soldiers, and contact information. touching tank filled with sea the buffalo, and the Native tribes anemones, starfish, and other displaced from their camp- live sea life. Plaques and exhibits grounds and villages. And you BBBBB share history and information can help the kids learn to appre- about members of the Siletz ciate and help save the vast and scenic wonders along historic -- Perry Treadwell has published Indian tribe who were forced several books of history including from their native lands on the Highway 20. Grandfather Stories about his coast but who now live in the experiences of farm life as a boy area, their tribal status being during the '30s and '40s. During resumed in the late 1970s. For a MORE INFORMATION: the '60s, he and his wife packed host of lodgings and friendly their four children into a cab-over eateries in the Newport area, Wyoming Bureau of Tourism pickup camper and crossed the browse www.discovernewport.com. (www.wyomingtourism.org) U.S. to California and back across By traveling Highway 20, one of Idaho Tourism the Mississippi five times.The children still remember those the nation’s ‘blue highways,’ you (www.visitid.org) excursions with some hilarity. and the kids can fully appreciate the vast and diverse geography, Oregon Bureau of Tourism -- Myrna Oakley contibuted to (www.traveloregon.com) terrain, and history that reach the Oregon section of the Highway from the Midwest to the Pacific 20 article.

18 n 2010 Canada's Vancouver/ Lodgings Equipment rental and trail passes Whistler, British Columbia Most hotel rooms in the village are available at several shops in Iwill host the 2010 Winter offer kitchenettes. We rented a the village. Olympics and Paralympics room at the newer Pan Pacific Games. Known for its scenic All Suite Hotel in the heart of Eats terrain and family-friendly skiing Whistler Village. Guests enjoy a The Old Spaghetti Factory in on the two Whistler adjacent Village offers mountains a kid’s meal Whistler’s Winter Wonderland for under $5 of Whistler and Blackcomb, by Jill Weinlein these slopes can accommodate that includes salad, pasta, bever- some 12,000 skiers a day on full kitchen, living area with sofa age, and spumoni ice cream. Next dozens of trails with short waits bed, fireplace, and balcony.We to Pan Pacific Hotel we enjoyed in the numerous lift lines. Each enjoyed the daily breakfast buffet take-out at the Avalanche Pizza mountain is the size of Vail in and evening hors d’oeuvres as Company. For dessert we trekked Colorado (the largest ski area in well as the outdoor pool, hot tub, into nearby Cows for delicious the U.S.). Best of all, the ski sauna, and spa facility. ice cream and whimsical tee shirts. season at Whistler-Blackcomb Other family friendly eateries, with For more information about Pan tasty food and good prices, include runs from November through Pacific Whistler Village Centre call June. With this information, I 888-966-5575. For other accommo- Wildwood at the Whistler Tennis packed up my husband and two dations in Whistler Village see Club (604-932-1991) and, in the children and headed for www.whistler.com; www.whistler nearby Creekside area, Dusty’s Whistler's winter wonderland. blackcomb.com; or call 1-800- Ski Bar (604-905-2171), which is After flying into Vancouver, WHISTLER; 800-944-7853. also a local favorite. B.C. we rented a car and drove 70 miles north along the scenic Activities If You Go... One day we decided to check Remember the favorable Sea to Sky Highway 99 to Canadian/U.S. dollar exchange Whistler Village. out the Meadow Park Sports Center where we found two rate, and tax refund for visitors. indoor swimming pools. While International visitors are eligible Whistler Village for a rebate on their shopping, Especially appealing for families, our toddler splashed with spout- dining, and hotel Goods and Whistler Village offers the most ing bears, floated on the lazy Service Tax (GST). By the end slope-side lodging accommoda- river, and played with pool toys, of our trip our GST totaled more tions in North America (www. our 11-year-old enjoyed the six than $110; within three weeks we whistler.com). The village, nestled lane lap pool with its 8-foot slide, received a check from Canada for at the foot of the mountains, is a basketball net, and rope swing. close to $100. Also note that car-free zone and offers walking My husband relaxed in the hot passports are required for U.S. paths and over 300 shops, eater- tub, steam room, and sauna. residents crossing the border ies, and hostelries. Free shuttles A National Hockey League- into Canada. stop at the hotels and condos to sized skating rink offers ice skate ferry you and the kids to the rentals and the 4500 square foot For more information: fitness center offers free weights, various ski lifts. www.tourismwhistler.com Another attraction for families cardio areas, and group fitness classes. (and for more fun with the kids click on is Creekside Kid’s Centre,in Things to Do and 20 Things To Do the nearby Creekside area (off Tours of the snowy Whistler With Kids, which offers a gaggle of Highway 99 just south of the village), back country areas are available things to see and do while visiting the which offers daycare activities for by dog sled (www.cougarmountain Whistler area.) .ca and www.adventureswhistler infants and toddlers ages three www.whistler.com or .com), by snowshoes, and also by and four. The Kid’s Ski and call 1-800-WHISTLER. Snowboard Camp sitting cozy and warm in horse- offers guided For concerts, festivals, and instruction for small groups from drawn sleighs (www.blackcomb sleighrides.com). other cultural events see ages three and up. www.whistlermillenniumpl.com For cross-country ski buffs the For more information about or call 604-935-8410. these services call the Whistler- Lost Lake Trails are a 10-minute Blackcomb toll free number, walk from most village accommo- BBB dations. The trail system includes 866-218-9690. Ask about the –Jill Weinlein enjoys discovering new Children’s Adventure Park, which 20 miles of groomed trails; nearly travel and dining destinations for her offers ski runs through an enchanted 3 miles are lit for nighttime family. Check out her website at forest and a ski-through castle. Nordic rambles. www.familytraveloutings.com.

19 ravelin’ ou'd like to T Vancouver Yplan a trip GrG andma The splendid city with the grandchil- ...on the road with Myrna Oakley dren and you want of Vancouver (www. to explore Southeastern Alaska Douglas City Museum. From tourismvancouver .com and Western British Columbia Juneau you can access by air and www.hellobc.com, 800-435- regions? Not to worry, here are a or by water the community of 5622) on the mainland, nestled number of web sites to help with Gustavus and nearby Glacier along the salty waters of Burrard your planning and your travel Bay National Park, and join Inlet and close to the Strait of itineraries. guided tours to see whales, Georgia and Canadian Gulf islands, offers fabulous fami- Southeastern ly-friendly Stanley Park as Alaska well as a host of kid-friendly This region is especially gardens. Don't miss Queen hospitable during the early Elizabeth Gardens with summer months although its strolling gardens and you might encounter rainy grassy areas along with its days from time to time. enormous geodesic domed Check these web sites for Bloedel Conservatory and Ketchikan, Petersburg, its outdoor kid-friendly Sitka, Juneau, and strolling water gardens. environs: Van Dusen Gardens offers several garden areas KETCHIKAN recycled from a large golf Browse www.visitketchikan. course plus a friendly restau- com (800-770-3300) for lodg- Picturesque Vancouver on the bay offers lots of fun rant. The University of ings, eateries, and things to for the whole family. Photo by Jill & Eric Weiland British Columbia offers a see and do in the Ketchikan wildlife, and Mendenhall Native Garden, a large test Veg- area; don't miss the splendid Glacier in the Glacier Bay area. etable Garden, a Medicinal Gar- Totem Heritage Center with its den, and an enchanting strolling hand-carved totems and Alaskan Southwestern Asian Garden. history (907-225-5900), (www. British Columbia city.ketchikan.ak.us/departments/ This region is lush with islands, or the ultimate suspension museums/totem.html). forests, gardens, and small towns Fbridge experience head about The friendly communities of as well as offering the splendid 10 minutes north of downtown Wrangell (www.wrangell.com) Vancouver to access Capi- and Petersburg (www. lano Suspension Bridge petersburg.org) are north www.capbridge.com (604- of Ketchikan and reached 985-7474). Guaranteed to by water. awe any traveler, it spans SITKA the Capilano River at 230 feet above the rushing Browse www.sitka.org waters. The span of steel (907-747-5940) for lodg- cables reaches some 450 ings and things to see and feet across and you'll feel do in the area and check the sway as you walk on the out Sitka National cedar planks. The surprise? Historical Park (www. Once across the canyon you nps.gov/sitk, 907-747-0110) and the kids can negotiate and ask about its Totem at least seven more suspen- Loop Trail. Telus World of Science housed in the geodesic dome, sion bridges through the rain JUNEAU a favorite in Vancouver. Photo by Jill & Eric Weiland forest canopy ($7 for kids, $23 Browse www.traveljuneau. adults). com, (800-587-2201) for lodgings cosmopolitan city of Vancouver You're not into swaying suspen- and things to see and do in on the mainland and the cozy sion bridges? Well, not to worry, Alaska's capital city. Ask about and wonderfully British city of you can plan a cable car ride up the Historic Downtown Juneau Victoria on Vancouver Island. to the top of nearby Grouse Guide available from the Juneau- “Grandma” continued on page 21. 20 “Grandma” continued from page 20. cougar mountain Mountain.You and the grandkids Washington State Ferries Adventures could also drive north about 70 (www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries) to at miles along the scenic Sea to Sky enjoy a splendid trip through the Whistler Highway 99 to the Four Season San Juan Islands.You and the Resort and tourist community of kids could drive off the ferry at Experience a variety of Whistler Village.You'll find Friday Harbor (www.sanjuan thrill-filled adventures that enough fun island.org and- take you into the 18,000 there for www.guideto acres of Whistler’s back- several days sanjuans. country including ancient for kids and com), explore Cedars, Cougar and Showh grandkids busy and Lakes, Rainbow, Cougar of all ages. fun San Juan Mountain, and the Soo Valley. The ski Island and season spend the C generally night there hoose from the many lasts before head- backcountry adventures through ing on via offered year-round: June (see the ferry to Winter: www.whistler Anacortes • Snowmobiling .com and the Scenic Horseshoe Bay on the Sea-to-Sky and mainland Whistler Village route from Vancouver to Whistler. Washington • Snowshoeing article in this Photo by Jill & Eric Weiland State. • Dog Sledding issue for more details). • Fishing

Victoria and Note: U.S. and Canadian customs • Skyline Eco-Tours require a minimum of two pieces of Vancouver Island Summer: Browse identification, • ATV Rides www.tourism including victoria.com picture ID • Horseback Rides for lodgings, and voter's • Hummer tours, registration eateries, and • Fishing a host of card, pass- • Dog Sled Summer Camp other things port, or birth to see and certificate. • Skyline Eco-tours do on Passports Vancouver will be Take to the sky on Island. Do mandatory cougar Mountain’s the Inner for all border skyline Eco-adventure Harbour crossings area in between the T Totem poles and heritage located on the U.S. and Canada he Skyline is a cable line Victoria with expedition through old grounds in Whistler Village. by 2008. its gaggle of Photo by Jill & Eric Weiland growth forests. Fly side by pleasure boats side on a tandem-line system and ferries as Be sure to get the latest passport in a comfortable harness and well as the Empress Hotel, information at www.travel.state. reaching speeds of up to Parliament buildings, and gov/passport 100km an hour. The system the splendid Royal Provincial offers 5 dual lines, with the Museum. The Inner Harbour Until next time... travels in longest ride being over 1500 Oregon and Washington State. feet long, 200 feet off the is especially stunning at night ground with a 200 foot with the Parliament building vertical drop. You’ll learn twinkling with lights. BBB about the Whistler ecosystem – Myrna Oakley is editor of adding to a most memorable ou could also head north up sky-high experience. Y Have Children Will Travel and island to the pleasant she authors two travel guides to seaside community of Sydney, the northwest, Off the Beaten For more information: stay overnight, and from there Path WASHINGTON (7th 1-888-297-2222 drive aboard the international edition) and Off the Beaten www.cougarmountain.ca ferry sailing on one of the Path OREGON (8th edition).

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hanks to my brother's passion lunch break. It was an authentic Trust still owns and manages the for the 16th century Italian Italian experience! There are plenty property. The more historical architect,TT Palladio, Andrew and I of these small eateries tucked away parts of the villa are open to the and our two sons public for two were invited last hours every summer to join Wednesday Steve in Italy to afternoon celebrate his 50th AROUND during the birthday. Being AUNTS TALY summer so, an architect and JJAUNTwithS Marjorie Thorne IITALY at that time, urban designer the current his idea of renters are celebrating in asked to style was to make them- rent a restored selves scarce. Palladian villa, Villa Sara- Villa Saraceno, ceno sleeps for two weeks. only sixteen The villa slept six- and the Land- teen, so Steve and mark Trust is his family and my rigid about parents stayed for this. My only two weeks and complaint our family of was that the four and various villa has no friends stayed for swimming either the first or pool. second week. This You just can't beat the Italian scenery. Lake Molveno in the Dolomites. meant two birthday parties for Steve! where you least expect to find them VERONA Because Villa Saraceno was and worth seeking out if you want With such spectacular accom- booked far in advance we were to experience the real Italy. modations, however, we would able to find great deals on flights have been happy to just hang out (just over $400 for Andrew and me at the villa and listen to the and the boys flying on EasyJet out VILLA SARACENO cicadas sing but it's close to so of Gatwick to After lunch we much Italian art and history that Venice San drove to Villa Sara- we took a couple of side treks. Marco) ceno at Finale, just Our first stop was Verona and on car south of Vicenza, (www.verona.com), the setting for rental so and were amazed at Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet. we decided how gorgeous the We first visited the Piazza Bra to extend place was. and its mag- our Italian Because nificent vacation to the villa Roman include a was never architec- week in the complet- ture, home Northern ed, this of Verona's Lakes The lawns of Villa Saraceno one, unlike famous Region. invite a game of football. other Palladian July/Aug We flew into San Marco Air- structures, is asym- opera sea- port and drove about two hours metrical in design. son. Enter- west of Venice to Noventa We learned that Villa ing Piazza Vicentina. We stopped here for a Saraceno (http://www. Bra we The boys pose with a were sur- quick lunch and we found a typi- thebigdomain.com/search.php? friend in Verona. cal Italian trattoria where, for just propertyid=59) sat empty rounded by tow- Euros 38 for the four of us, we for a number of years and ering sets from the opera Aida enjoyed a basic but very tasty then was bought and restored by and we envied those who had Italian meal in a room filled with the UK-based Landmark Trust tickets to one of the performances. locals-mostly Italian men on their (www.landmarktrust.org.uk). The “Italy” continued on page 23. 22

“Italy” continued from page 22. small, offers spectacular art and wine. For lunch we went to Check the Verona web site and architecture as well as some great Trattoria Baiamonte near book ahead if you're an opera buff. shopping. A highlight was visiting Castelnuovo, discovered and the chapel Musei Civici Cappel- recommended by brother Steve. ur next stop was Casa la Degli Scrovegni (http://www. The owner and chef, Tomaso, di Giulietta, Juliet's cappelladegliscrovegni.it/). Located provides a spectacular meal house, on via Cappello. Popular in the Giardini dell'Arena,on served with Italian charm. OO the Corso Garibaldi, the chapel myth indicates that the spectacu- features Giotto's famous 14th lar balcony was the one Romeo PASS the PASTA! climbed. History disagrees, but century frescoes that illustrate the PASS the PASTA! the setting is so lives of Mary and Christ. Although One of the added extras not utterly romantic you are allowed mentioned in our Villa Saraceno that it's more only 15 minutes brochure is the opportunity to fun to believe to view the fres- have meals cooked for you by the the story! My coes (following a villa's housekeeper, Elisabetta, and favorite part 15-minute wait- her husband Fabio. The couple was the ing period when lives in an apartment next to the entranceway the air is neutral- villa and they will, with 24 hours with its thick ized to protect notice, cook an evening meal for walls covered in the artwork), the your party in the villa's kitchen. love graffiti and chapel is worth Elisabetta and Fabio presented us love notes stuck the wait.You with a wonderful homemade four- on with chewing Find scrumptious Italian cuisine need to book course meal for less than Euros gum. Everyone and good company here in the ahead, especially in 20 per person. Wine is also avail- seems to get caught dining room at Villa Saraceno. high season (12 able at a reasonable price. We up in the romance Euros; arrive 20 of it all. Very close to Casa de minutes early). Giulietta is the Piazza dell'Erbe, For something similar that's a rather tacky market place. It's cheaper and less time-consum- worth wandering through the ing and, frankly, almost as market, however, and then spectacular, for just Euro 2.50 through the Arco della Costa to you can visit the Battistero reach the picturesque and elegant del Duomo di Padova. Here Piazza dei Signori, a real hid- you can enjoy a cool, peaceful, den treasure. and relaxed viewing of the stunning Affreschi di Giusto de'Menabuoi. The Duomo is Morgan, Andrew and Duncan VICENZA also surrounded by neat cafes enjoy a photo opportunity on the If you're a fan of Palladio and were you can sit and people- shore of Lake Garda in Limone. his buildings, watch to your the city of heart's content. were so enthusiastic about the Vicenza and it couple's pasta that they offered to surroundings give us a lesson in how to make offer many HEAD for this, and also pasta sauce, the examples of the HILLS Italian way. For a nominal fee, Palladian and a few hours the following Taking a break afternoon, we enjoyed a profes- architecture, from city touring the most spec- sional, and fun lesson in making we spent a day pasta and pasta sauce! tacular of driving into the which is La hills around Rotonda (http:// Duncan and other guests try Finale starting NORTH to the LAKES ville.inews.it/eroton pasta-making with the at the peaceful da.htm), 5 Euros. It housekeeper’s help. monastery and war and MALCESINE is breathtaking in memorial at Monte Having enjoyed a glorious week its design and symmetry. della Madonna near Teolo. with Steve and family and friends From here we continued to the basking in Italian culture and in a PADUA enormous Benedictine Abbey, spectacular setting, we reluctantly Abbazia Benedettina,at packed our family of four and My favorite local city, however, Praglia, where you can buy local was Padua, which, although “Italy” continued on page 24. 23

“Italy” continued from page 23. you can drive around it in a day (www.canevaworld.it) near the headed north to the lakes region. but, if you do, you won't have time southern point of Lake Garda. After a two-hour drive on the to stop often along the way. The The boys enjoyed a number of autostrade we crested Passo S. area offers plenty of choices for rides such as Rambo, Scooby- Giovanni and enjoyed our first entertaining two culture-saturated Doo, Powerpuff Girls, and scenic view of Lake Garda, our young boys. Our first excursion Terminator. A family ticket (price home for the next week. The town was taking a ferry across the lake depends on the height of the of Malcesine, located lakeside to the picturesque village of children) gave us the option of a and at the foot of Monte Baldo, Limone. The boys had fun get- second day free on the same tick- was chosen to cater to son Mor- ting fake tattoos and we found et. Food was basic theme park gan's love of going up and down the most enormous lemons. It's a fare but with an Italian accent. mountains. pretty village and we wandered off the I found THE BEAR the Villa tourist track to find THE BEAR Stellina some of its hidden NECESSITIES apartments treasures. Limone The next day we headed for the online has a market on the Dolomites to soak up more Ital- (www.villa first and third Tues- ian mountain scenery. The drive stellina.it) day of each month. took us up past the town of and our Otherwise, there's Riva del Garda, past a lovely host, Signo- good shopping but turquoise lake called Tenno, and ra Franca it's fairly pricey. I through meandering mountain Zeni, wel- found the markets a passes and alpine meadows. We Morgan gets the full treatment much better value. The comed us to her and more at Movieland. motored past hundreds of puffing family run com- roundtrip ferry ride cyclists to the lakeside town of plex, which consists of three (7.50/6 Euros) from Malcesine to Molveno where we bought apartments. Each offers under- Limone takes 20 minutes each way. panini and fries from a big lunch ground parking, lakeside views, truck. We enjoyed our picnic next and access to the above-ground MONTE BALDO to the deep blue lake and son swimming pool and barbecue Morgan convinced us that our facilities. For just Euro 92 per Our next excursion was riding appetites were sharpened by the night, plus Euro 36 for final the nearby cable car up Monte pure mountain air. cleaning costs, we enjoyed basic Baldo (www.funiviedelbaldo.it/eng/ From Molveno we drove but comfortable accommodations malcesine.asp) and with the hot higher into the Dolomites to our just a ten minute walk from the weather in Malcesine we enjoyed destination, a bear sanctuary, center of town, the cable car, and the cool alpine breezes as well as Spormaggiore Trentino Area Lake Garda. We thought it a great the high elevation views. We also Faunistica. The two-acre sanctu- deal and perfect for our two active enjoyed another round of gelati ary is home to boys. Lake Garda is so popular before again a handful of with German-speaking tourists climbing aboard brown bears that most restaurant menus in the cable car. At and is Malcesine are in both Italian and the halfway sta- expanding German. The cable TV channels tion we hopped significantly. were almost entirely German. off the cable car The entrance Lake Garda is probably best and walked fee is minimal known as a world class wind- down the rest of and a great surfing and sailing destination the way via the little gift shop because of the predictable winds. Strada supplies all The surfers and sailors appear in Panoramica your bear the early morning and late after- winding down needs. the long route. We Duncan chases waves on noon when the winds are strongest the shore of Lake Garda. The next and the surfing at its most chal- stopped for a wel- morning Andrew lenging. It was thrilling for the come al fresco lunch at an elegant took the two boys on a longer boys and Andrew and I to watch little roadside bar, Ristorante ferry ride from Malcesine to Riva as they spun and raced on the Bellavista. del Garda and I used the morn- crests of the waves with the winds. After our cable car adventure ing to wander around Malcesine's we and the two boys decided Saturday market. I found plenty on a change of pace taking in a LIMONE of leather products, ceramics, LIMONE theme park called Movieland, and gifts. Lake Garda itself is vast and which is part of Canevaworld “Italy” continued on page 25. 24

“Italy” continued from page 24. a fascinating history of the Venice Our last day was spent on the gondolas. water. First, we ferried over to The four of us then wandered Riva del Garda and rented peda- around the city until we found a looking los for just Euro 8 per hour for quiet piazza that wasn't over- crowded with tourists. We settled forB more the four of us. We peddled our small crafts out to test the iciness in here for a leisurely al fresco vacation of the lake's water. Our two boys meal at twilight while being sere- jumped in and out of the icy naded by wandering musicians. ideas? water very quickly and discovered Yes, our visit to Venice couldn't how fast their lips turned blue. have been more clichéd but the trendy destinations four of us enjoyed it immensely. Andrew and I swam later in near- off-road journeys by Lake Tenno and then we enjoyed a tasty pasta meal at rare explorations Ristorante Mama Giosi. A PALLADIAN educational treks FAREWELL fun-filled resorts VENICE On our last day in Italy we Wild adventures VENICE drove north of Venice into the unusual tours The next day we packed up mountains to visit one of Italy's and said goodbye to Malcesine most scenic spots, the village exotic Locales and Lake Garda and drove back of Asolo at the foot of the active trips... to the Venice area.We had found Dolomites. Asolo was so beloved a hotel about five minutes from by poet Robert Browning that the Go to Your website San Marco Airport, Hotel townspeople named a street after have children will travel Altieri (www.altierivenice.it) him. We enjoyed a in Mestre, which and traditional Italian connect with others allowed us to use lunch at the for the best in public transporta- Ristorante Due tion into Venice.We Mori in the Piaz- travel ideas & advice caught Bus 4 for za D'Annunzio all bundled with just 1 Euro per per- where our choice encouragement. son, riding into the of drinks was a Piazzale Roma. jug of water or a B From there we jug of wine. We a eChildren caught the Tragetto also browsed the H v into the heart of open-air bookstore WILL TRAVEL Venice and walked on the main piazza “Have Children,Will Travel” provides from the Lido to and then drove to ideas, information, advice, insights Piazza San and encouragement for traveling the nearby town with our children young and old. Marco. of Maser to visit Andrew and I another of P.O. Box 2766, Kamuela, HI 96743 Our family’s highlight in Phone: 808-885-0333 wanted the boys to Palladio's famous Email: [email protected] see as many highlights Venice was touring the canals by gondola. buildings, the Villa Web: http://havechildrenwilltravel.com of the city as possible in Barbaro. This spec- Publisher/Editor: Deb Cornick order to entice them to want to tacular work of architecture we Editor: Myrna Oakley return some day. thought was a fitting end to our Contributing Writers: Myrna Oakley, We fed the pigeons in Piazza family's Italian holiday. No doubt Majorie Thorne, Victoria Purdie, Linda San Marco, we took photos of about it, one visit to Italy and Oatman, Kimberly J. Davis, Sheila Bridge O’Connor, Jill Weinlein, Perry the boys in front of the you're hooked. Treadwell, Mark Henricks. of Sighs, and then we looked for Next stop: Sardinia. ...Stay Copyright ©1996-2008 Deb Cornick the best deal on a gondola ride. tuned! All rights reserved. Have Children, For 80 Euros (expect to pay Will Travel presents information between 80 and 100 Euros) we BBB and research believed to be current had the traditional 45-minute and reliable at time of publishing. The tour of the central Venice -- Marjie Thorne lives in Britain publisher cannot be held responsible canals with her husband and two boys. for travel or booking problems en- . Our gondolier didn't sing countered as a result of using this but he was the son-in-law of one She has been a freelance writer for the past 15 years. Contact Marjie information. Readers are advised of Venice's four remaining gondo- at [email protected]. to always make contact for current la-builders. He provided us with information prior to travel. 25