PUBLICATIOH OF

THE LOWHDES CODNTI HISTORICAL SOCIETY

HAXNEVXLLE.,. NUMBER IV October 1972 n LOWNDES COUNTY ALABAMA

1830-1972

By Kathleen Cottingham Dean n

DEDICATION

To the Memory of Mildred Russell McKeithen whose love and knowledge

of southern history and untiring work in the state's historical societies, a

Charter Member of the Lowndes County Historical Society, this sketch is

affectionately dedicated.

Kathleen Cottingham Dean

Lowndesboro, Alabama O October 8, 1972 o

Russell Home - Birthplace of Mildred Russell McKeithen, owned and

occupied by her Mother's family since I856.

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Round marble top table in the Russell parlor graced by a photograph O album mentioned on page 151 Lowndes Court House n

PROLOGUE

Beginning December 14, 1969 Alabama celebrated its susquecential birthday* The news media was prufuse with data concerning the state's history and accomplishments. The theater, historical societies, and other organizations gave tribute to the mother state in bringing to its ci tit ens and the public an awareness of her great heritage.

This small sketch of Lowndes County's history was compiled and given in the January meeting 1969 of the Lowndes County Historical Society. Lowndes County was then 139 years old, eleven years younger than the state.

Although emphasis is placed on the county's history one should remember that Lowndes County is the heart of Alabama's Black Belt. Archivist the late Peter Brannon stated at one time, the most typical of this region. All phases of its history and development have been largely determined by conditions and circumstances common to the southern region of the state. It is an integral C part of a region, the state, the nation, and of the world. This small record is to lend perspective to natives and other citizens of Lowndes County. It traces families from whence they came, and may serve as a means to understand the present and predict the future with greater assurance through interest and appreciation of the county's 142 years of history.

Kathleen Cottingham Dean

Lowndesbore, Alabama

October 8, 1972

U LOWNDES COUNTY

1830-1972

I. A Look Backward

U. Who's Who

HI. Towns and Villages

IV. Early Education

V. A Look Forward

Kathleen Cottingham Dean

u A LOOK BACKWARD o Lowndes County is rich in its storied past. William Humphrey wrote 1" The Ordways that "We Southernors are accused of living in the past. What can we do? The past lives with us."

Lowndes has 142 years of past. It was created by the Alabama Legislature in 1830 from Montgomery, Butler and Dallas Counties. It is named in honor of William Lowndes, a distinguished South Carolina statesman.

The County was inhabited by Allbamo Indians whose chief town was Ikanatcheka (or Holy Ground). During the Creek war of 1813 this town was the scene of a battle between the Creeks under William Weatherford and the American forces under F. L. Claiboura. The territory was ceded to the U. S. by the Treaty of Fort Jackson August 9, 1814.

It was at Holy Ground that William Weatherf ord, the brave and bril­ liant half-breed, whom the Creeks knew as Red Eagle, made his famous horse­ back leap into the Alabama River.

After the massacre at Fort Mims, which he led but did not approve, Weatherford collected his warriors, their families and supplies at Holy Ground, which he believed to be impregnable because of the high thickets which enclosed it on one side and the river on the other. General F. L, Claibourn, assisted by Pushmataka and the other Choctaw Indians, broke the power of the faltering Creeks*

Later when Red Eagle stood almost alone against the advancing foes, C he mounted his horse Arrow and sped to the river bank. He came to a bluff some fifteen feet above the water on the eastern side of the Alabama River just below Powell's Ferry, turning his mount down this almost perpendicular bluff, he spurred the animal to a mighty leap. The horse sank to rise no more, but Red Eagle disengaged himself and swam to safety to the other shore.

Akin to Texas for its black belt soils Lowndes is kin to South Carolina in both blood and name. Many South Carolina settlers who traveled down the old Federal Road settled the county when it was first created. The present inhabitants are mostly all descended from these first settlers who were of the wealthy and cultivated class. They built handsome houses on their plantations. These large plantations account for the county's present popula­ tion being about 8l£ negro.

WHO'S WHO OF LOWNDES COUNTY

I. Dixon Hall Lewis - Senator Dixon Hall Lewis was known for his girth, wit, and wisdom. No voter who saw Lewis could forget the sight. He towered over most men of the age. He stood over six feet tall. He weighed close to 500 pounds which reportedly Inconvenienced him considerably because of the special care he had to take in movement. What travels he did take among the wilds of what was then Alabama were accomplished by a peculiar vehicle described by a fellow traveler thus, "It resembled a small stage with a low picket fence around it and a monstrous chair in the middle. The vehicle itself was a two wheel cart. From the back there could be let down to the ground a flight of very strong steps. The cart was pulled alter­ nately by goats, horses, mules and slaves.

Lewis himself was a vehicle. He carried a message to the pre-Civil War South. "The Federal government is a growing animal which seeks to engulf us all'.' He was typical of most Alabama politicians of his day. He was remarkable for his social conversation. He was fluent and a very attractive companion, abound­ ing in wit, repartee, pleasantry and anecdote and withal a profound reasoner. He rarely spoke in Congress longer than 20 minutes.

While visiting in City in 1848 he was stricken with a chest cold. He lingered but a few hours. His specially made chair in the Senate Chamber was now vacant.

II. Col. Willis Brewer - With so much history, it is natural, perhaps, that Lowndes County should produce a historian. The famous one was a statesman, philosopher, and a journalist. Col. Willis Brewer, frock-coated, pipe smoking scholar was state auditor from 18?6-1880. He served as a member of the Legislature for eighteen years, and was four years a member of Congress.

From his pen came a valuable history of Alabama, published in 18?2, and other publications of the purest literary style also a metaphysical work, The Secret of Mankind which won international attention when it was pub­ lished in 1895* and has since been translated into German. Of Col. Brewer the Montgomery Journal said in 1967• "No man in the state has a more distinguished personality or a more distinctly southern one, and there is none whose brain and intellect, culture and learning so forcibly remind of the old South?

HI. Mildred Brewer Russell - Col. Brewer's daughter also is a renounced author of the book rich in Lowndes County history. The book entitled Lowndes Court House was published in 1951•

IV. Dr. H. V. Wooten- Dr. Wooten, prominent in the medical field of Alabama, Q came to Lowndesboro shortly after graduation cum laude from the University of Pennsylvania. He later held a chair at Memphis Medical College. His family remained at their home "Rosewood" in Lowndesboro.

V. The McCurdy Family - The McCurdys have been associated with the colorful history of Lowndes County in the raising of fine horses which was a feature of county life and in after years the products of McCurdy Stables were followed at racing meets all over the South.

VI. The Right Reverend Noble Cilly Powell, Episcopal Bishop of Maryland was a native of Lowndesboro,

VH. Admiral Thomas H. Moorer, Chairman, joint Chiefs of Staff - Admiral Moorer served in the South Pacific during the early part of World War II, where he was awarded the Silver Star, Purple Heart and distinguished Flying Cross as a result of combat action with a Navy fighter squadron. During the Second World War, he also served as Commander of a Bombing Squadron operat­ ing in Cuba and Africa, and served as gunnery and tactical officer on the staff of Command Air Force, Atlantic.

VHI. Hulda Coleman, Superintendent of Lowndes County Public Schools has the distinction of being the only woman County Superintendent of Education in the state. She succeeded her father, Jesse Albert Coleman, in 1941 to this office. Mr. Coleman was a prominent political figure In Lowndes County for many years* He had served as sheriff and was Superintendent of Education at the time of his death. TOWNS AND VILLAGES

I. Hayneville - The County site takes its name from a famous U. S. Senator o from South Carolina, Robert Y. Hayne, whose debate with In the tempestuous days before the war between the states, lives forever in America's politioal classics. The town was first called "Big Swamp Creek" and then later called "Lowndes County Court House"

Hayneville was a lively village in the early 1800's with a famous race course, hotels, cock fights at the square and many law offices lining the main street. Old news papers carry accounts of elegant, lavish parties in the large homes.

II. Fort Deposit - At the present site of Fort Deposit a fort was built in 1813 by General Claibourne. There he stopped to deposit supplies and left his cannon, baggage, wagons and wounded men with one-hundred men as guards. After the defeat of the Indians at Holy Ground, this fortified place mas used by the early settlers for protection. The early Federal Road ran by the fort.

Today Fort Deposit is an industrial pocket in Lowndes County, possessing a pajama plant, pecan and poultry business, and an engineering supply manufacturing plant* The Chamber of Commerce plans to renovate an ante­ bellum farm house near the town for tourist attraction.

III. Lowndesboro - After the Creek and Indian war ended, groups entered into western Lowndes and settled McGill's Hill, named for a family of Presby­ terians. The Mount Harmony Presbyterian Church was founded in 1823 and the i McGills were Charter Members. John Cook surveyor at the end of the running of the lines of the settle­ ment in the newly created County of Lowndes when It was created from other counties made a plot, dating it June 23, 1830. The original settlement there which was then a part of Montgomery County was called "Loch Rant*.? The first postmaster was William Robinson 1822 at Loch Ranea.

These two communities gradually became closer neighbors and became the present town of Lowndesboro which was first spelled Lowndesborough.

Sunday April 2, 1865 General James Harrison Wilson captured Selma about dusk. Wilson and his troops remained in Selma one week. April 10th he began his march to Montgomery. The Journal of a Federal surgeon with Wilson's Raiders records, "We marched fifteen miles through the village of Benton and camped there during the night. April 11th one mile from Benton we marched through a swamp a mile long. The road was extremely bad?

Thirteen miles from Benton the columns passed through the village of Lowndesboro. "This is one of the most beautiful places we have yet passed through. It is built up of large elegant mansions. It has a population of about one-thousand and five-hundred. Small pox was raging(a hoax to move the yankees on). It was here in Lowndesboro that we received news that Richmond had fallen on April 2nd'.'

General Wilson had camped near D. W. Wooten's residence (Rosewood) for head­ quarters. After the news of April second, he marched on to Montgomery. It was said the Yankee troops were disappointed that Montgomery capitulated without a squirmish.

IV. Benton - This Village was named for a family of the same name. It was there the first meeting of the Alabama Eduoation Association (A.E.A) was held in the year I856, though Selma claims the honor.

A gradual acceptance of public schools among the planters came between 1840-1860. Education prior to this date had been held in contempt and ridicule by planters and wealthy merchants who preferred to educate their children in private or church denominational schools.

V. Mount Willing - This hamlet was settled and named for a South Carolina town by pioneers from that state. Admiral Thomas H. Moorer is a native of Mount Willing.

VI. Collirene - This small village was named by William Rufus King, U. S. Senator and later Vice-President under Filmore (though due to illness and an untimely death never served) was a guest in "Sand Hill" when his host was lamenting the name of the community, King suggested a combination of the Latin words "Collis", meaning hills and "Arena", meaning sand, he created the name Collirene.

VH. Manac (Hanack) was named for Sam McNac, a half-breed who operated a trading post and tavern there in 1810.

VIII. Burkville ( or Burkeville) was named for a family of Burk. Today it is spelled both ways.

IX. Letohatch.ee (or Letohatchie) also spelled two ways is an Indian word for Big Swamp.

X. Tyler - Old citizens say it was named for the Vice-President who served as President after Harrison's short term of office.

XI. Calhoun - Legend says Calhoun was named for John C. Calhoun, the fiery orator, a staunch defender of slavery.

XH. Fostoria - Named for the family of one, Mr William Foster, an early settler in that small eommunity.

XIU. Sandy Ridge was first known as "Payne's Precinct?

XIV. Saint Clair was first called "Franks?

XV. Pleasant Hill which is partly In Dallas County was first called "Fort Rascal" for a German Trader because of his Indian (customs) traits.

EARLY EDUCATION

About 1840 a male academy was in operation in Lowndesboro. It was located behind what is now the Lowndesboro A. M. E. Church on which rests the copper dome from the Capitol of Alabama when the Capitol was at Cahaba.

The dome was brought to Lowndesboro by Major Robinson by means of a team of 16 oxen in I833.

Lowndesboro Female Institute (near the present site where Lowndes Academy is now located) prospered during the 1850's. The first head master was Charles u R. Dean.

These two fine schools brought great influx of people to the area.

These schools were discontinued because of the Civil War. The Female College was restored to operation at a later date but then closed when the state opened and enlarged other colleges and universities.

A LOOK FORWARD

While classified as a traditional and rural county Lowndes is planning for changes of the future.

The county eyes a bridge across the Alabama River to. Autauga County and for job opportunity. U. S. Highways 80, 31 and 5 state highways cross the county. The Louisville and Nashville and Western Railroads of Alabama run through the county.

Fort Deposit's mayor and Chamber of Commerce planned an Airstrip and a near by industrial park to cater to possible aircraft and related industries. On April 23, 1971 the Thomas H. Moorer Armory was dedicated and opened. This event was written of in detail in the Lowndes Signal in April 1971.

Hayneville has an improved water system, a fire station and beautification developements•

Lowndesboro has been a oonsequental city of shops that drew patrons from surrounding communities. How Jones Bluff Dam is in operation. It was formally opened April 16, 1972. Steamers that ply the Alabama River will no doubt land there. Lowndesboro holds a strategic position on U. S. Highway 80 being half way between the growing city of Selma and the State Capitol of Montgomery.

"A plan to reclaim the rich acres of Big Swamp is being studied", says J. W. Wible, District Soil Conservationist.

The county's rolling hills once produced tons of cotton but now the old cotton stands are replaced by cattle. The 50, 000 acres planted in cottom have been reduced to about 7,000 acres. Lowndes now sells the second largest number of beef cattle in the state.

Poultry production is next followed by general agricultural products. Soy beans, a new commodity, are being introduced in the county. Its production doubled in a year.

Other major contributions to the income of the county are from the sale of timber, swine, eggs, daries and small seed and clover.

Lowndes County has approximately 250 thousand acres of forest land. This fig­ ure represents about 55$> of the total acreage of the county. During 1971 forest products from these acres contributed over 16 million dollars to the economy of Lowndes County. This is a partial value of the forest land of the county as expressed in terms of dollars (Lowndes Signal February 10, 1972 - County Agents Report)

Such things as recreation, wild life habitat, water shed protection, source of oxygen and esthetic value cannot be measured in terms of dollars.

Bert Henderson, Poet Laureate of Alabama calls Alabama "Land of Destiny". Lowndes County, the very heart of Alabama's Black Belt, marches forward toward a glorious future with its Mother State. o EPILOGUE

A hospitable "Old South" waits to welcome hundreds of visitors that attend annually the Lowndesboro Pilgrimage of its unusual old homes and churches that range from pre-Civil War to modern reproduction of the prosperous ante-bellum days.

Another attraction to visitors is "Calico Fort" presented in the spring by the Arts and Activities Committee of Fort Deposit. Indian dances, art and crafts display and antiques draw crowds from all states of the union.

The third and final link of Jones Bluff Dam and Lock, making water transpor­ tation from the port of Mobile to Montgomery was formally opened in dedication ceremonies April 16, 1972. The official opening of the lock permitted passage of "The Cherokee" that pushed a barge load of compressors for the Alabama Gas Corporation that was too large to be shipped fully assembled by any other means.

Since Alabama is fast becoming the Hollywood of the South, scenes from the movie "Payday", starring Rep Torn were filmed in Lowndesboro and Benton in the fall 1971.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Alabama Education Journal - November 1954

Alabama Writer's Project - November 1954

Brannon, Peter - Little Black Book

Brewer, Willis - Alabama

Lowndesboro Pilgrimage Bulletins - March 1971 and March 1972

Lowndes Signal

McMillan, M. C. - Alabama Confederate Reader - This Land Called Alabama

Moore, A. B. - History of Alabama

Montgomery Advertiser - Susquecential Edition January 17, 1969

February 23, 1969

Richardson, J. M. - Alabama Encyclopedia 1965

Russell, Mildred Brewer - Lowndes Court House

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By Kathleen Cottingham Dean