ITALY’S LAND OF INFINITE DISCOVERY ’S LAND OF INFINITE DISCOVERY ITALY’S LAND OF INFINITE DISCOVERY

Parks and nature reserves in The region This initiative is promoted by Parks and nature reserves in Marche Regional Authority, Department of Internationalization, Culture, Tourism, Trade and Promotional Activities P.F. Tourism, trade and consumer protection The Marche region Manager: Pietro Talarico Organization: Marta Paraventi Editing: Cecilia Gobbi In collaboration with the Territorial – Environmental Services System of protected Areas, Environmental Education and Touring Network Alfredo Fermanelli (manager) Carlo Morbidoni (p.o.) Direction of the Parks and Nature Reserves in Marche The pdf file can be downloaded from: www.turismo.marche.it Graphical layout: Serena Moretti – (AN) Photos: Images from the Marche Regional Authority Photographic Archives and from the Park Archives – Maurizio Bolognini pgs. 46, 48-49; Ennio Brilli p. 4 Daniele Maurizi pgs. 41, 42; Lorenzo Cicconi Massi p. 18; Alfonso Napolitano pgs. 28-29; Giorgio Pegoli p. 35; Claudio Ciabochi; Renzo Tortelli pgs. 38, 44-45; Mario Dondero; Ruggero Passeri p. 15, 54, 56; Renato Gatta pgs. 8, 26, 36, 39; Antonio Neroni; Giambattista Neroni p. 55; Patrizia Malizia p. 56; Carlo Urbinati p. 2; Photonica3 p. 11; Maurizio Anselmi pgs. 12, 14; Paolo Aprile pgs. 20-21; Piergiuseppe Novaga p. 25; Gabriella Romagnoli pgs. 58-59; Francesco Silvi pgs. 50, 52; Francesco Ribes. Printing: Tecnoprint srl -

Marche Regional Authority Tourism Office - Department of Internationalization, Culture, Tourism, Trade and Promotional Activities P.F. Tourism, Trade and Consumers Care 60125 Ancona – Via Gentile da , 9 Tel. +39 071 8062431 – Fax +39 071 8062154 www.turismo.marche.it [email protected]

Toll-Free Number: +39 071 2133609 EMILIA 4 PESARO

Carpegna 5 HOW TO GET THERE URBINO TOSCANA MOTORWAY A 14 - 9 www.autostrade.it ANCONA ROADS SS 3 Flaminia - Roma-Fano (PU) SS 4 Salaria - Roma-Porto d’Ascoli (AP) 10 Jesi SS 16 Adriatica - Padova-Otranto (LE) 3 SS 73 bis von BoccaTrabaria - San Giustino (AR)-Fano (PU) SS 76 Val d’ - Fossato di Vico (PG)-Falconara Alta (AN) SS 77 Val di Chienti - (PG)- (MC) ex SS 361 Septempedana - Ancona-Nocera Umbra (PG) ex SS 360 Arceviese - (AN)-Scheggia-Pascelupo (PG) 6 TRAIN Milano- line: Milano, Bologna, Ancona, Lecce Roma-Ancona line: Roma, Falconara M., Ancona 12 www.trenitalia.com San Severino Abbadia Marche di BUS 8 The extra-urban transport system connects Marche to 12 Italian regions Camerino en.turismo.marche.it AIRPORT “Raffaello Sanzio” Airport of Marche Ancona/Falconara M. 7 1 Domestic and international connections San Benedetto www.marcheairport.com Visso del 11 PORT OF ANCONA Connections to: Albania, Croatia, Greece, Montenegro, Turkey www.doricaportservices.it VISIT MARCHE TOURIST PORTS en.turismo.marche.it Gabicce Mare, Pesaro, Fano, Senigallia, Ancona, 2 , Civitanova Marche, Porto S. Giorgio, 1. Monti Sibillini National Park S. Benedetto del Tronto Toll-Free Number 2. Gran Sasso and National Park en.turismo.marche.it +39 071 2133609 3. Conero Regional Nature Park 4. Monte San Bartolo Regional Nature Park 5. Sasso Simone e Simoncello Interregional Nature Park 6. Gola della Rossa and Frasassi Regional Nature Park 7. Montagna di Torricchio State Nature Reserve 8. Abbadia di Fiastra State Nature Reserve 9. Gola del Furlo State Nature Reserve Discovery Marche Discovery Marche 10. Ripa Bianca Regional Nature Reserve 11. Sentina Regional Nature Reserve 12. Monte San Vicino and Monte Canfaito Regional Nature Reserve

A region of infinite discovery Parks and nature reserves in The Marche region

Parks and nature reserves in The Marche region In the collective imagination, the territo- ry of the Marche region is usually linked to hills and to a rural landscape, but we must not forget that 30% of this region’s surface area is characterized by moun- tains, offering visitors an environment that is still intact and one of outstanding natural beauty. An experience in the mountains of the Marche region is much more than merely losing yourself in the unspoiled nature of the great summits, wild gorges, spectacular , wooded slopes and - capped peaks. You will also discover traces left by monks and hermits as well as ancient Picentine, Roman, Lombard and Byzantine settlements and you will relive the experience of a journey into the memory and the roots of this land, whe- re the work of man is perfectly integrated with nature. In Marche, over 90,000 hectares of its territory, meaning al- most 10% of the region’s surface area, is protected; this is almost totally made up of mountainous areas: two national parks (the Monti Sibillini National Park and the Gran Sas- so and Monti della Laga National Park), four regional parks (Mount Conero, Sasso Simone e Simoncello, Monte San Bartolo and Gola della Rossa e di Frasassi), six nature reser- ves (Abbadia di Fiastra, Torricchio mountain, Ripa Bianca, Sentina, Gola del Furlo and Monte San Vicino e Monte Can- faito) more than 100 floristic areas, 103 locations listed in the Natura 2000 European Network, of which 76 are listed as Sites of Community Interest (SCI) and 27 are Special Protec- tion Areas (SPA), and 44 Environmental Education Centres. The vegetation in the nature reserves along the coastal are- as, such as that of Mount Conero, is Mediterranean shrub, featuring, in particular, the Holm oak, the strawberry tree, the Mediterranean buckthorn, the Phillyrea and the Mastic. In the hilly area, the Downy oak is the dominant species, although in some areas, such as the Park of Sasso Simone e Simoncello, you will see vast forests of Turkey oak, while the Manna ash is dominant in the calcareous substrates.

3

At higher elevations you will come across seums and various Visitor Centres in the beech woods, first mixed, then single-spe- protected areas throughout the territory cies and then the high-altitude grasslands. (Abbadia di Fiastra, Amandola, Apecchio, As for the wildlife, numerous species are Ascoli, Fermo, Genga, Ostra, , still present today, including the wolf, the Serra San Quirico, Pioraco, Smerillo; the deer, the roe deer, the porcupine and, in the Earth Science Museum of Piandimeleto, the heart of the Monti Sibillini, also the chamois, Avifauna Museum of Sarnano and Monte- which was reintroduced in 2008. Among fortino), meet the demands of the most de- the birds, you will find the golden eagle, manding scholars. the Lanner falcon, the Peregrine falcon, the But the tourist attractions do not end red-billed chough and the eagle owl. In the here: How can we forget the rich variety of protected areas, it is possible to go hiking food and wine featuring dishes and spe- on foot, on horseback or by mountain-bike, cialities handed down by rural tradition, with itineraries organized by the numerous not to mention numerous possibilities to Centres of Environmental Education (CEE). visit exhibitions, attend festivals, see en- You can also engage in other sporting ac- tertaining shows and evocative historical tivities, like climbing and free flight, as well re-enactments or take part in sports, such as some more adventurous water sports in as horse-riding, mountain bike riding, hi- the mountain streams, such as rafting, ca- king, climbing, skiing, canoeing and hang noeing, kayaking and canyoning. The mu- gliding?

5

MONTI SIBILLINI NATIONAL PARK In the heart of Italy, between Marche and by the waters in which the Grotta dei Frati is Umbria, stand the towering Monti Sibillini located, an ancient and evocative hermita- mountains with over twenty peaks exceeding ge of the Clareni monks, dating back to the 2,000 metres and reaching a height of 2,476 year 1000. Moving along the river, upstream m with Monte Vettore. Established in 1993, of Lake Fiastra, you will reach the Acqua- the park covers a territory of almost 70,000 santa valley with its beautiful waterfalls and hectares, shaped by the forces of nature and Grotta dell’Orso ( of the Bear), the painted intermittently by thousands of years name of which also signifies the presence of of history and local culture. Here, you can still this species in the Sibillini mountains. perceive the magical presence of the legen- dary Sybil and the memories of ancient ne- FLORA cromantic rites that linger, in this place where The vegetation tends, as if by magic, to fascinating legends are handed down. change gradually as you move from the basement rise, located at an average alti- THE TERRITORY tude of 500 m, to the higher peaks. Up to The Monti Sibillini is a mountain range of approximately 1,000 m, Downy oak, Hop mainly calcareous origin that has been hornbeam and Manna ash woods are predo- deeply shaped by the action of glaciers in minant, after which there are beech woods, the Quaternary Period, traces of which are first mixed and then pure. Above the treeli- recognizable in the beautiful glacial cirques ne that reaches as far up as 1,700 m, there of Monte Vettore, Monte Bove, the upper are natural pastures where you can find very Ambro Valley, the Val di Tela (Monte Roton- rare and precious species like the Martagon do) and the U-shaped valleys below. Be- lily, Viola Eugeniae, white Dryas, Apennine neath the summit of Monte Vettore, at 1,940 Edelweiss, Artemisia, anemone, Apennine m, is , the only natural lake in Gentiana, Bearberry and the Dwarf willow, Marche and one of the few alpine glacial la- which is considered the smallest tree in the kes in the Apennines. world. On the „flowering side“ of the park, Particularly evident are the formations the Ragnolo meadows stand out for their in the plains of Castelluccio and in the nu- wealth of flora and here, in , you can merous sinkholes located in the upper Val di see beautiful orchids, Liliaceae and other Panico, in the Ambro valley, at Palazzo Bor- interesting species in bloom, such as the ghese and also in the furrows and crevices Fritillaria dell’Orsini, Narcissus or the Aster of the rocky walls of the main valleys where Alpinus. solid limestone emerges, such as in the val- leys of Tenna and Ambro. WILDLIFE The Fiastrone Valley is also impressive from The Park‘s wildlife is very rich and varied: a scenic point of view. It is a gorge formed among the mammals, there is the wolf, the

7 elusive wild cat, the porcupine, which has in the Sibillini Mountains. As for the inverte- only become common for a few decades brates, an extraordinary presence is that of and occupies the most thermophile areas, the Chirocefalus Marchesonii, a small anos- and the roe deer, re-introduced for the first traca with a bright reddish colour, endemic time at the beginning of the ‘50s and has to the Lake of Pilato. now permanently settled throughout the en- tire area. Thanks to specific reintroduction HISTORY AND CULTURE projects, today even the deer and the cha- In the middle ages, the Sibillini mountains mois have returned to live in the park. were known throughout Europe as a realm Among the birds, there is the golden eagle of demons, necromancers and fairies. There which, ever since the park was first estab- are numerous legends in this area, the most lished, has nested even in areas that had famous being that of the Sibyl, the „Illustri- been abandoned for years. Then there are ous prophetess“ who lived in a cave on the the Northern goshawk, the sparrow hawk, mountain of the same name and that of Pi- typical inhabitants of the forest, and the Pe- late, according to which the lifeless body of regrine falcon. Among the owls, there is the the famous Roman Procurator was dragged Eagle owl, while among the galliformes, the- by some buffaloes into the red waters of the re is the Rock partridge. „demonic“ lake, considered a place of wit- Also frequently seen are the Alpine chough ches and wizards since the 13th century. and the Red-billed chough. It is also interes- Not far away is the Gola dell‘infernaccio, or ting to see the Dotterel, the Common rock the Gorge of Hell, in which the memories of thrush, the Alpine Accentor, the white-win- ancient necromantic rites still linger. Not to ged snow finch and the wall creeper. Among be forgotten is the area’s historical and cul- the reptiles, there is the Ursini‘s viper that tural heritage: the territory is particularly rich reaches its northern-most boundary in Italy, in castles, look-out towers, historic villages,

8 churches, Romanesque parish churches, Info frescoes and works of art. Also worth visit- Piazza del Forno, 1 - 62039 Visso (MC) ing are the sacred places: sanctuaries and Tel. 0737 972711 - Fax 0737 972707 monasteries built in areas of great beauty [email protected] PEC: [email protected] and profound spirituality, like the Sanctuary www.sibillini.net of Macereto or the Sanctuary of the Madon- www.sibilliniwilderness.it na dell’Ambro in . Park Municipalities in Marche Fiastra, Bolognola, Visso, Ussita, TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES Castelsantangelo sul Nera, Amandola, A network of hiking trails cross these moun- Arquata del Tronto, Acquacanina, tains, guaranteeing you the opportunity to Montefortino, , , make invigorating discoveries in the natural, , Cessapalombo, San Ginesio, Fiordimonte, Pievetorina. cultural and historical environments, from spring to autumn. The wintertime, when the highest peaks are abundantly covered in snow, gives you a new chance to get some present a unique opportunity for less expe- exercise on your skis, moving between the rienced hikers or anyone with limited time to forests and valleys, in absolute silence. discover the Sibillini mountains. Two of the Other opportunities offered to visitors of 18 nature trails are „for everyone“, meaning the park include horseback riding, moun- that they are even accessible to strollers or tain biking, hang gliding, paragliding and wheelchairs. Exploring the park on a moun- rock and ice climbing. The area also offers tain bike allows you to travel along roads a countless variety of possibilities for those and paths that were originally built for the who want to move around on foot, to disco- log sledges of peasants, the mules of lum- ver all its treasures in every season. If you berjacks, the boots of shepherds and the are seeking closer contact with the wilder- sandals of pilgrims. ness and the magical world of the peaks, The guidebook entitled „Cycling in the Park“ you can also go on more challenging trips, describes the paths in detail and also con- which often require experience, training and tains the relative maps, offering 14 ring rou- the appropriate equipment. tes, each of which can be accomplished in An unforgettable experience can be lived a day, in addition to the Grande Anello by along the Grande Anello dei Sibillini (GAS) mountain-bike, which is 160 km long and mountain range, on a 120 Km hiking trail, takes at least 5 days to cover. completely marked out. Divided into nine You can also discover the Sibillini mountains stages, it allows you to discover a variety of by camper van, motorbike or car, thanks to landscapes and natural beauty, as well as the Grande Via Del Parco (the Great Road the invaluable cultural heritage of this terri- of the Park) and the 6 ring routes that have tory. To allow for the best use of the Grande been identified and which form a network Anello, the Park has taken care to restruc- of about 450 km. The Grande Via Del Parco ture the hiking shelters, which, along with is a route of over 190 km, created on exis- traditional accommodation facilities, can be ting roads, on which you can travel by car, used in total harmony with the territory and motorcycle or camper van and makes for the environment. The nature trails also re- a rewarding journey lasting several days. It

9 is divided into four stages. There are also tion of the protected area. Inside the park, a further six ring routes connected to the there are also 8 Centres of Environmental Grande Via, which allow for a visit of entire Education, which are officially recognized territory. by the Regional Authorities of both Marche Discovering the Park means experiencing and Umbria. These Centres perform the im- and understanding nature and an extremely portant task of providing information to vi- original territory, the result of thousands of sitors, especially schools, and raising their years of harmonious rapport between man awareness about the special values of the and the environment, both of which have territory while, at the same time, allocating been able to adapt to each another in a fra- them shared responsibility with regard to gile and delicate evolutionary parallelism. greater respect for the environment. Visiting the Park’s municipalities is, there- Experiencing the Monti Sibillini National Park fore, an unforgettable opportunity to relive also means „tasting“ the numerous typical the charm of yesteryear to the full and to and traditional products of the area. These discover the treasures of man, so skilfully are the result of agriculture that has become embedded in nature. All this amounts to a a culture of tradition. Its ancient wisdom has truly refreshing and unforgettable experi- been able to pass down and also to update ence for every visitor, also on a cultural le- its uses, customs and methods, along a vel. A visit to the museums in the area is path of environmental sustainability, tradi- a must. Among these, there is the Sibyl’s tion and quality. The best known products Cave (Grotta della Sibilla) in Montemonaco, are pink apples, tasty chestnuts, extra fine The Duranti Art Museum in Montefortino honey, incomparable lentils, Roveja peas, and the Leopardian Manuscript Museum in excellent for making excellent polenta with a Visso. These, along with the Park’s Visitor typical intense colour green, chickling peas Centres are important places for documen- or spelt, without forgetting the exquisite, de- tation and tourist information as they offer licious truffle. We must also remember the visitors a more general learning experience beef and lamb meats and their authenticity relative to the entire territory of the Park. and origin in this territory, providing the buy- The Deer Wildlife Centre at Castelsantange- er a guarantee also in terms of food. lo sul Nera and the Chamois Wildlife Centre at Bolognola are both worth a visit, whe- re you can observe several specimens of these two species, recently reintro- duced by the Park. Inside each Centre, there is a park house (casa del parco), in which there are tourist re- ception activities and which provides visitors with es- sential information for the correct and adequate frui-

11

GRAN SASSO E MONTI DELLA LAGA NATIONAL PARK

Further south than the Sibillini Mountains, beyond the gor- ges shaped by the river Tronto, stand the Monti della Laga mountains, forming the northernmost sector of the National Park, which includes the Gran Sasso massif. Established in 1995, the Park has a surface area of 150,000 hectares, of which 9,900 in Marche.

THE TERRITORY The Monti della Laga mountains, with the presence of Monte Gorzano, reach a height of 2,458 m and consist mainly of sandstone and marl. Geological nature influences the mor- phology of these mountains, the peaks of which are more rounded and there are numerous deeply etched valleys and impressive glacial cirques. The marl-sandstone formation ensures that water flows rapidly on the surface, collecting in streams, ravines and rivers, which run downwards, forming dozens of stunning, beautiful waterfalls such as that of the Volpara or that of the Barche in the valley of Selva Grande. Info Centre of the two Parks FLORA Fraz. Borgo, 9 63043 Arquata del Tronto (AP) There are more than 2,000 plant species in the territory of the Management Authority: park, including the Martagon lily, the Apennine Edelweiss and Cooperativa Forestalp several rare orchids such as the Epipogium. One of the most Tel. 0736 803915 Fax 0736 819758-809921 important species is the blueberry, more common here than in [email protected] any other part of the Central Apennines, which, with extensive www.centrodueparchi.it high-altitude grassy surfaces, is a true moorland amidst the Certified email: mountain pastures. The great wealth and diversity of the flora parconazgransassolaga.aq.protocollo@ and vegetation can be sought both at high altitudes, above pa.postacertificata.gov.it Institutional Head Office email: 2,000 m, and in the different geological substratum of the main [email protected] massifs. While the Gran Sasso is characterized by its extensive Registered office pastures, particularly on the L‘Aquila side, the Monti della Laga Via del Convento, 1 mountains are mostly covered by forests. At lower altitudes 67010 Assergi - L’Aquila there are oak woods and chestnut groves, planted during the Tel. 0862 60521 Fax 0862 606675 Roman era, while the beech forest is the largest wooded area [email protected] and extends for 1,000 to 1,800 m. Park Municipalities in Marche Other types of tree are often present together with the beech , Arquata del Tronto tree, such as the Taxus or the Holly, residual species from eras

13 characterized by a hot, humid climate; the wolf, which is beginning to build small packs maple, the linden, the ash and the Wych elm again. For some time now, the Marsican cover the mountain ravines. Also worth men- brown bear has also been making sporadic tioning are the rare Silver fir forests – one of appearances. Numerous birds of prey can its only two sites in Marche is right here - and be found here, including the golden eagle, several groups of birch, which are living evi- the Northern goshawk, the Peregrine falcon, dence of past weather events that impacted the Lanner falcon, the red-billed chough and the current vegetation heavily. the eagle owl. Between the leaves, in the cooler areas where water flows or collects, WILDLIFE live the spectacled salamander, a rather rare The most interesting wildlife species in the amphibian, and the common frog. Park is the chamois, an ungulate exclusive to the , which has re- TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES turned to live in the park, after one hundred Until a few years ago, the Monti della Laga years, thanks to a successful reintroduction were almost unknown to mountain enthusi- operation. Other large herbivores also living asts and, because of their relative proximity in the territory include the deer, the roe deer to the Gran Sasso, Terminillo and the Sibillini and their predator par excellence, the Italian mountains, they were infrequently visited.

14 its name from the imposing thirteenth cen- tury Fortress (arx) that crowns the hill and which, according to tradition, was rebuilt by Giovanna II of Naples and has been reno- vated in recent times. There are various cultural and folkloristic events, among which one of the oldest historical re-enactments of the area: the “Festa Bella”, in which the community of Spelonga di Arquata brings to life the batt- le of Lepanto, which took place in 1751. In fact, about a hundred inhabitants of Spe- But anyone who visits them even once can- longa participated in the battle and mana- not resist returning to them, to go on great ged to conquer the Turkish flag, which is excursions all year round or for mountai- still preserved in the village’s parish church. neering, back country skiing or alpine ski- The re-enactment takes place every three ing. In winter, when the water is replaced by years, on 14 August. In the first decade of thick ice, the Laga waterfalls offer unusual the month, 150 young people go into the and challenging routes for mountaineers. Bosco Martese woods and cut down a The ancient cultural tradition of the park’s 25-metre long tree trunk. This is used as populations is evident in the abundant, the main mast of the ship that will be rebuilt elaborate craftsmanship, in the tasty ty- in the village square, in a laborious operati- pical food products and the typical local on that requires great physical effort, while folkloristic events that still survive today, also celebrating the cohesion of the com- important both culturally and as tourist at- munity. On 19 August, another celebration tractions. The latest examples of sixteenth takes place: “Alla corte della regina” (At the century stone houses are worth a visit. queen’s court), which is the re-enactment These can be found in the numerous villa- of life at court and takes place in the fort- ges set amidst the mountains, like Arqua- ress built by Giovanna II of Naples. ta del Tronto or Castel di Luco located in A visit to the Park can begin at the Centre the Paggese district of Acquasanta Terme, of the Two Parks, Centro Due Parchi, at Ar- characterized by its circular shape; there quata del Tronto, which is the only Munici- is also Umito, a typical mountain village, pality in Europe to be part of two National unforgettable for its splendid, centuries- Parks: that of Gran Sasso and Monti della old chestnut woods and a good starting Laga and that of Monti Sibillini. The Centre point for fascinating excursions into the is, in fact, a Country House, a Park House lush woods. Charcoal is still produced in and a Centre for Environmental Education. the district of Colle di Arquata del Tronto, Numerous activities take place at the cen- using the ancient method of the Apenni- tre. For example, “green” holidays, educa- ne charcoal kilns. Also worth visiting are tional trips for schools and nature week- Acquasanta Terme and Arquata del Tronto, ends. Moreover, equipment and maps are which was an important „statio“ on the Via also available for orienteering, as well as an Salaria, in Roman times. The village gets artificial wall for climbing.

15

MONTE SAN BARTOLO REGIONAL NATURE PARK

The Monte San Bartolo Regional Nature or Brisighella, have altitudes lower than 200 Park, established in 1996, has a surface metres. However, they allow a broad view of area of 1,586 hectares and stretches along the „painted landscapes“ (as Tonino Guer- the coast, between Pesaro and Gabicce. ra called them) of Montefeltro, San Marino, Romagna and of the coastline and the sea, THE TERRITORY where the Park’s sheer cliffs create a seas- Its main characteristic is the stretch of high cape that is unusual for the typically sandy coastline with bare cliffs, rare along the Adri- coasts of the Romagna and Marche regions. atic. The rest of the protected area consists At the base of the cliff, there is a narrow of an interesting and distinctive rural lands- beach of gravel and pebbles, resulting from cape that, until the 1950s, was actively cul- the demolition and landslide of the walls tivated even in places that would be unthin- above. In the past, it was used as a con- kable today, up to the limits of the sea. Thus, venient quarry for paving stones that were the San Bartolo has two distinct areas: the directly loaded onto boats and exported to cliff above the sea and the internal area. The other coastal towns. Examples include the cliffs rise up from the low beaches of Marche old cobbled streets of the town of Pesaro like a succession of undulating spurs and and the villages within the territory of the valleys, punctuated by sheer walls display- park. The rural Landscape that can be seen ing geological aspects of great interest, with in the stretch that slopes gently towards the precious fossil fish and rare gypsum crys- Adriatic trunk road, conveys a sense of har- tals. Sandstone, marl and clay banks alter- mony, a sort of vital and pleasant interwea- nate with each other, sloping gently towards ving of cultivated fields, abandoned re-natu- the sea and blending with ancient landslides ralised fields and rows of trees and hedges. dotted along the cliffs. The highest peaks on the side near the sea, like Mount Castellaro FLORA An area like this one, greatly affected by human activity, would be expected to be extremely poor, but this is not so. In fact, the flora of the San Bartolo Park offers its visitors pleasant and suggestive emotions. For example, in the „Baia Flaminia“ area above, you can observe a very rare plant known as maritime - this is the only place in the region in which you will find it. Equally significant are the rush and the wild carrot, found in just a few other places along the Marche coast. Among the pioneer

17 vegetation, present on the steepest slopes, tree species include the olive, the vine, the are the Arundo Plinii, while on the drier and fig, the cherry, the mulberry, the service tree firmer lands, there is the Weaver’s broom and the almond, with the presence of rows of that, when in flower, provides unforgettab- vines and isolated specimens of large Dow- le, contrasting yellow colours that emerge ny oak interspersed along the tamarisk and from the blue of the sky and the green of the Jerusalem thorn hedges. sea. Where the slope is gentler and where a Therefore, the overall appearance of the certain amount of organic debris accumu- inner belt of the park is also very evocative late, you may encounter the Madder, the and harmonious, especially where some lar- Etruscan honeysuckle and young Aleppo ge hedges adorn the edge of the cultivated pines, originating from the spontaneous fields that extend right up to edge of the cliff. dissemination of reforestation. In the moist areas, white poplars, black poplars and WILDLIFE white willows can be found. Here too, as in Particularly in winter, when there is less in- the hinterland, you can observe the same terference from recreational activities and associations of mixed forests with oak and fishing, the park is home to a large number Hop hornbeam, where the Turkey oak is in- of species of seabirds. The area was desig- creasingly rare, while the Downy oak, the nated a wetland of national importance for Manna ash, the maple and the Field elm are wintering birds, such as the red-breasted far more common. merganser and the common merganser, the The presence of several species of conifers, common gull, the Mediterranean gull, the such as the Stone pine, the Maritime pine black-legged Kittiwake, the black-headed and the Cypress can be attributed to the gull and the yellow-legged gull, the common historic Renaissance villas. eider, the lesser black-backed gull, the great Subsequent reforestation in the 1960s ad- cormorant, the manx shearwater, the great ded several species to the flora of the Park, crested grebe and the black-necked grebe, including the sycamore, the Aleppo pine, the the black-throated loon, the grey heron, the Black pine, the Siberian elm and other alloc- little egret and sometimes mute swans, as thonous species. The rest of the vegetation well as cranes and white and black storks. is typical of an agricultural environment, in- The San Bartolo Nature Park of is a pre- tensely cultivated until the 1950s, where the ferred route for migrating birds of prey, like

18 European honey buzzards, western marsh Info harriers and a very rare species: the pallid Office and contact details harrier, plus many other soaring birds (herons Viale Varsavia - 61121 Pesaro and storks). This is due both to its location Tel. 0721 400858 along the Adriatic coast and to its unusual Fax 0721 408520 morphology, as it is a peninsula used as a di- [email protected] rectional reference point for birds. Among the Gabicce Monte Visitor Centre Via Montegrappa / Via Roma resident birds, we must remember the Pere- 61011 Gabicce Mare grine falcon that, after decades of absence, Tel. 0541 830080 has returned permanently to the cliffs, nes- Park Municipalities ting on the walls overlooking the sea. Pesaro and Gabicce Mare Additionally, there is also the long-eared owl, as well as the little owl, the Eurasian scops owl and the Barn Owl, which takes advantage of the constant degradation of the abandoned farmhouses to settle here. traditional rural landscape, with its numerous Among the mammals present, are the fox, farmhouses (some of which have been tur- the badger, the porcupine, the weasel, the ned into holiday cottages) and numerous in- hare and the dormouse. tertwining country roads that form a vast net- work of green itineraries, in the shade of the TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES great oak trees in the cultivated countryside. In addition to its naturalistic value, the Mon- A guided trail is also available and is easi- te San Bartolo Park has a considerable ar- ly accessible to everyone. It stretches from chaeological and historical content, ranging Pesaro, alongside the Villa Imperiale woods, from Neolithic finds in the area of Monte which are rich in indigenous and naturalized Castellaro to the archaeological site of Co- species, and across the mountain, to an ob- lombarone on the ancient Via Flaminia road, servation point that sweeps from the hinter- as well as Santa Marina and Vallugola, the lands to the infinite horizon of the sea. Roman ports of the past. Between Gabicce There are numerous religious sites inside Mare and Pesaro, a charming scenic road the protected area, including the Jewish unwinds for about 20 km, crossing or tou- cemetery near Pesaro, small country ce- ching the picturesque fishing villages, over- meteries, the Suore Servite cloistered looking the blue sea. A series of ancient off- convent, that of Girolamino of San Barto- shore towns, from Santa Marina to Gabicce lo (which gives its name to the entire hill) Monte, dominate the cliffs from above. and the Sanctuary of Casteldimezzo. The The alleyways inside the castle walls dis- artistic treasures in these locations (such as play a strong medieval influence, conce- the Crucifix of Jacobello del Fiore and the aling small marvels, like those around the paintings of Viviani) herald the large noble little square of Casteldimezzo or at the foot villas near Pesaro, which descends from the of the bell tower in Fiorenzuola di Focara, at 15th-century Villa Imperiale, with its hidden the base of which there is an open gateway gardens and its frescoed halls, to the 18th- overlooking the sea. century Villa Caprile and its famous foun- In the rural areas you can follow trails amidst a tains, to Villa Victoria.

19

SASSO SIMONE E SIMONCELLO INTERREGIONAL NATURE PARK

The Sasso Simone e Simoncello Nature Park was established in 1994 and covers a total surface area of 4,991 hectares, in the heart of ancient Montefeltro, on the border between the regions of Marche and Emilia Romagna.

THE TERRITORY – HISTORY AND CULTURE The hilly-mountainous landscape is impacted by the Sassi Simone (1,204 m) and Simoncello (1,221 m) mountains, with altitudes ranging from 670 m and 1,415 m of mount Carpeg- na, the highest peak in the park and a divide between the Valle del Foglia and Valle del Marecchia. The Sasso Simone e Simoncello Park is the result of gent- le and unobtrusive human history, which has allowed nature to remain undisturbed for thousands of years and to carry out its silent work. The hilly landscape is covered in dense vegetation, interrupted by steep cliffs and rocky outcrops on which „impenetrable“ fortresses were built for defence against enemies. It is, therefore, an area rich in castles, for- tresses, churches, convents and parish churches. The Park gets its name from two huge rocks, Simone and Simoncello, which were inhabited by humans from the Bronze Age. Some legends tell us about Roman priests, the „Semoni“, who wor- shiped their gods there, and others about a hermit, Simone, who established his dwelling there. It was probably a place of refuge for the populations during the Lombard and Byzantine raids, but the harshness of the climate did not make it easy to create a permanent human settlement on the rock. In fact, it was basically the strategic vocation of the site that motiva- ted the main „urbanizers“ of the Sasso Simone: these were the Benedictines in the 12th century, the Malatesta family in the 15th century and the Medici family at the end of the 16th century. The first were responsible for building an abbey de- dicated to Sant‘Angelo, probably on the site of a chapel from the Lombard era. The arrival of particularly harsh winters and the opening of new and more convenient pilgrimage routes contributed to the decline of this site, which saw a major and almost definitive collapse with the plague of 1348. When the

21 lords of this land realized the strategic military species. The Downy oak, the Turkey oak, importance of this place, the Sasso was forti- the Hop hornbeam, the Manna ash, the field fied with towers and walls until, in the second maple and the Neapolitan maple are the most half of the 16th century, the Medici family built common trees, while the shrubs include the a fortress-city there, to assert their own pow- common dogwood, the Cornelian cherry and er in an area that was difficult to govern. You the common hazel. can still see the remains of that „ideal city“, Together with the common hornbeam, the abandoned in 1673, the symbol of which was Turkey oak dominates the vast Mediterra- the sun - today the symbol of the park. nean-mountain forest that, from Passo della Geologically, the entire area of the Sasso Cantoniera, extends for over 800 hectares, Simone e Simoncello Nature Park consists a as far as the Sassi Simone e Simoncello and vast mantle of chaotic heterogeneous terrain, Valpiano. Also present are holly, various types called the „Colata della Val Marecchia“. The of maple, the European ash and the beech. territory in question is composed primarily of Numerous herbaceous species, typical of the malleable clay and clay-marl soils, which are forest, grow in the underbrush, such as the highly deformable and contain blocks that European wild ginger and the Martagon lily, while the mountain cornflower prospers at are composed mostly of limestone and are the edge of the forest. On the Sunny slopes, compact, rigid and of varying sizes. The se- used primarily for grazing, the landscape is lective erosion of the mantle by water, wind dotted with shrubs like the common juniper, and snow, impacts and wears away the sof- the dog rose, the common hawthorn, the ter clay-marl materials much more rapidly, blackthorn and the wild blackberry. bringing out raised blocks made from harder In the woods, at altitudes higher than 1,000 rocks: this is how the “Sassi” (Rocks) origi- m, where the climate is cooler, the beech is nated and are the typical, characteristic mor- predominant, as is the sycamore and some- phologies of Montefeltro. times the yew, the Norway maple and the common laburnum, while ferns emerge from FLORA the dense carpet of leaves. On the Eastern There is a wide variety of flora in the park, slope of Mount Carpegna, some reforestati- which varies depending on the altitude. The on was accomplished in the first half of the vegetation at altitudes lower than 800 m twentieth century, mainly using the black features woods with a good mixture of tree pine. The pastures of Monte Carpegna, loca- ted at altitudes of around 1,200 to 1,400 m, originate from ancient forests of beech and probably also of fir. In early spring, the green of these meadows is tinged with the colours of the crocus, followed by colourful orchids and lastly by the colchicum, in late summer. In the woods and meadows, during the spring and autumn seasons, various species of mushroom appear, true delicacies that make these places the destination of enthusi- astic researchers and lovers of the flavours of

22 the undergrowth. The Simoncello, the woods Info of the Cantoniera and the Costa dei Salti are Sasso Simone e Simoncello Park Authority Protected Floristic Areas, while Monte Car- Established according to Regional Law no. 15, pegna is also included in the state forest of dated 28/04/1994. Via Rio Maggio, s.n., the same name and is owned by the regional 61021 Carpegna (PU) authorities. Tel. 0722 770073 Fax 0722 770064 WILDLIFE [email protected] [email protected] The Park is home to numerous species of wild [email protected] animals, including wolves, badgers, weasels, www.parcosimone.it beech martens and skunks. The smallest Park Municipalities in Marche and the most common of the ungulates is the Carpegna, Frontino, Montecopiolo, roe deer. In the evening, at dusk, or early in Piandimeleto, Pietrarubbia. the morning, it is easy to see them emerge from the thicket to feed in the clearings and in the uncultivated fields. The wild boar is nest in the area, nor do they frequent open now present throughout most of the Apen- areas when hunting. With the arrival of war- nines, following the introduction of several mer weather, you can observe numerous specimens from Central Europe, decades migratory birds that, after spending the win- ago, for hunting purposes. Among the am- ter in Africa, return to occupy the territories phibians, there is the great crested newt and of the park and the surrounding areas. You the spotted newt, the tree frog, the common may then come across the short-toed snake toad and the salamander. The reptiles inclu- eagle, the hobby, the European honey buz- de the common viper, the green whip snake, zard and the Montagu‘s harrier. Other birds of the Aesculapian snake, the grass snake, the prey, like the Western marsh harrier, will just common wall lizard and the Italian wall lizard, be passing through during migration, while the three-toed skink and the slow worm. others, such as the hen harrier, can be ob- Various species of birds of prey can be ob- served in winter over meadows and pastures. served in different periods and environments: The nocturnal birds of prey include the barn among these, there is the Eurasian sparrow owl, the little owl, the long-eared owl and the hawk and the Northern goshawk, both cha- tawny owl. racterized by a relatively long tail, giving them a greater ability to fly safely in the woods of TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES the area. Buzzards and Kestrels are easier to Among its numerous activities, the Park has spot because they are more confident and also undertaken operational strategies aimed also more common; the first can be seen not only to protect and enhance the who- while it skilfully hovers in the air like a „holy le area, but also to improve the structures spirit“, hunting over meadows and pastures; available for use over the territory. Therefore, the second can be spotted as it draws large rest areas have been equipped, from which circles in the sky, letting out its distinctive cry. you can set out on pleasant walks or on chal- If you are lucky and alert, you will also see lenging excursions. It is also possible to take the golden eagle, the Peregrine falcon and guided tours or go orienteering and Nordic the Lanner falcon, even though they do not walking.

23 Itineraries suitable for mountain bikes or of Pennabilli, headquarters of the Episcopal horseback riding have also been marked Diocese, the Park has set up an interesting out. Visits accompanied by Park Guides are nature museum in an old renovated building. held throughout the year. There are also nu- Guest rooms are available at Frontino, in the merous environmental education offers for Multi-purpose Centre of Montefeltro, as well schools, also promoted by the Park, through as at Calvillano di Pietrarubbia. In this lat- its own CEE. ter location, there is also an operative CEE, The Wildlife Park of Pian dei Prati is ideal for while at San Sisto in Piandimeleto, there is school visits and for families: in an area of the Environmental Services Computer Cen- 5.5 hectares you can follow a trail with the tre of Montefeltro and the Museo del Fungo aim of getting to know farmyard pets like (Mushroom Museum). goats, sheep and mules, as well closely A visit to the Park is made even more en- observing unusual wild animals like birds joyable by the exceptional local produce of prey, roe deer, wild boars, frogs, toads and by the local cuisine. In fact, you can and newts. The Wildlife Park is available for enjoy numerous delicacies here, made lectures, guided tours, camps, etc., also for with mushrooms and truffles (both black people with disabilities, thanks to a specially and white), Carpegna ham, which boasts structured specific trail. PDO recognition, various types of Peco- There is a Visitor Centre attached to the head rino cheese, both fresh and mature and office of the park, located in Carpegna, as numerous culinary specialities typical of well as at Ponte Cappuccini in the municipa- Marche, Romagna and Tuscany regional lity of Pietrarubbia, while in the ancient Town traditions.

24

Monte Conero Regional Nature Park

A mountain overlooking the sea, with en- of man here has been confirmed at least chanting views. A place with generous, warm 100,000 years ago and left numerous traces atmospheres. Hiking trails that seem to wink of the Picentine people (9th-3rd century BC) at sustainable tourism. An offer of local tradi- in particular. Tombs were discovered, provi- tions in the pursuit of quality. So much his- ding rich grave goods, including the famous tory revealed in every corner of the territory. tomb of the Queen of Numana and Sirolo, All this is the Parco del Conero, a work of art which was preserved in the area of pine trees. created by nature, a gem set in the Marche The finds are exhibited in the Archaeological region, on the shores of the Adriatic. Estab- Museum of Ancona and in the Antiquarium of lished in 1987 to protect nature and cultural Numana. Further evidence ranges from rock treasures, the Conero Regional Park, which carvings to Roman caves, Benedictine and stretches for 6,011 hectares, includes most Franciscan monasteries and defensive struc- of the territory of Ancona and of the little tures such as the Napoleonic Fort and the towns of , Sirolo and Numana. Torre Clementina in Portonovo. Not to be for- gotten are the beautiful Romanesque church TERRITORY – HISTORY AND CULTURE of Santa Maria di Portonovo and the Monas- This protected coastal area offers varied and tery of San Pietro al Conero, in which various fascinating surroundings, in which Mount religious orders (Benedictines, Camaldolese Conero (572 m) stands out. Its origin dates and Gonzagites) established themselves, in back to a long process of sedimentation that turn, after the year 1000). began in the Jurassic era and emerged in the Pliocene era, five million years ago. From the FLORA Gargano to the coast of , Mount Co- The diversity of the environments, such as nero is the only rocky bastion consisting of the steep limestone cliffs, the hills, the val- limestone formations with majolica rock litho- ley floors, the River, the wetlands, types and red and white scagliola stone. For the coastal dunes and the brackish ponds of this reason it has been a place of stone ext- Portonovo, are a guarantee of a high level of raction since ancient times. In the 4th century biodiversity. The northeastern slopes of the BC, it was a landing place for the Greeks, who Mountain are covered with sclerophyllous travelled up the southern coastline of Italy in evergreen and deciduous trees (Downy oak, search of towns to be founded. It was here Hop hornbeam, Neapolitan maple, and Man- that the Dorians cast their anchor and made na ash), while on the sunnier slopes and tho- it their permanent abode, calling the promon- se facing south, there is Mediterranean shrub, tory Komaros (from „strawberry tree“, a com- featuring thermophile species such as, in par- mon plant on the mountain) and its northern ticular, the Holm oak, the strawberry tree, the curve Ancon (elbow), from which the name of mastic and the terebinth. In addition, exten- the city of Ancona originates. The presence sive pine forests are also found here, resulting

27 from reforestation carried out with Aleppo pine, Austrian black pine, the cypress and other species from the „Forest Militia“. With regard to the cultivated areas, the Park has, over time, promoted projects directed solely at quality and encouraging organic farming, breeding and production of certified foods (grains, vegetables, legumes and fruit) in accordance with the QM brand (Qualità Marche), a mark of quality of the Marche re- gion. This is all done in agreement with the farmers, with the goal of experimenting a re- newed relationship between man and envi- ronment. The Park’s most ambitious project, bicuspidatus odessanu, can be found in the carried out with the agricultural enterprises, Portonovo ponds. The marine environment is united in a cooperative called ‘Conero Agri- now protected, with a proposal to establish a coltura e Ambiente’ (Conero Agriculture and Site of Community interest (SCI), and it con- Environment), gave rise to a brand of supply tains an incredible number of crab species, chain products, in 2012, which is, quite right- many of which are extremely mimetic, like ly, moving along the same path as the already the European spider crab and the timid ane- widely recognized Rosso Conero DOC wine, mone crab, feather duster worms, splendid from the wineries located in the protected nudibranchs (small colourful snails), the spiny area and in the surrounding territories. dye-murex (so-called „sea snails“), cuttlefish, shrimps, a large number of combtooth blen- WILDLIFE nies, scorpion-fish, sea bream and saddled In terms of wildlife, the presence of more than sea bream. The Conero muscle, or wild Me- 200 species of birds has been recorded, in- diterranean ‘Mosciolo’ muscle of Portonovo, cluding 76 nesting species. In April and May deserves a special mention, having become each year about 10,000 transiting birds of prey a Slow Food Presidium, and can be found on are counted. This is why Mount Conero is a the tables of good food connoisseurs. very popular location for birdwatching. There are strategic sighting points, including Gradi- TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES na del Poggio, Pian Grande, Monte dei Corvi, For those who wish to discover the heart of Monte Colombo, Belvedere Nord and the Pi- the Conero area, not only is there a dense ani dei Raggetti. 467 types of butterfly have network of trails, created by man over the also been counted. In the fine weather, these centuries, but the Park has identified 18 par- fly around searching for nectar from the flo- ticular routes of particular environmental and wers, for mating and for laying their eggs. As scenic interest, which can be covered by bi- for the mammals, the presence of the wolf is cycle, on foot or on horseback. The Park has certain, albeit sporadic, as well as the badger, also launched numerous other actions in the the fox, the hedgehog, the beech marten and field of sustainable tourism, and, in 2013, it the weasel. Furthermore, a small, extremely obtained the European Charter for Sustaina- rare freshwater crustacean, the Dyaciclops ble Tourism (ECST).

28 This certification provides, among other Info things, the incentive for local components in Conero Regional Park Authority the territory to work in partnership, in order Via Peschiera, 30 to increase the offer and quality of services 60020 Sirolo (AN) Tel. 071 9331161 in the area, in a context of full respect for the [email protected] environment. After all, tourism is the main www.parcodelconero.eu economy of the area, as the Riviera del Co- Visitor Centre nero is well-known not only in Italy, but also Tel. 071 9331879 throughout Europe. In fact, endless surprises [email protected] are generously donated by the park and the Park Municipalities little towns that compose it. In short, depar- Ancona, Camerano, Numana, Sirolo ting from Ancona, the capital of the Marche region, a walk along what is familiarly called the ‘strada del Monte‘, or Mountain road, will brackish ponds behind the dunes. A few ki- give you a good idea of what is being jea- lometres after Portonovo, the road climbs up lously preserved inside the Conero area. This to the peak of the Mountain, to the Abbey of will lead you to the bay of Portonovo and its San Pietro and to the northern panoramic beaches, at Vela and at Mezzavalle, which viewpoint. The presence of disused quarries are a must and can be reached only by sea makes the Park an ‚open book‘ of the area’s or on foot, along a narrow road with a spec- geological history and of the entire stratigra- tacular view. Culture and environment meet phic sequence, typical of the Umbria-Marche in the bay, where you will find the Watchto- Apennine area. The quarry is wer built by Pope Clement XI, the Napoleo- particularly important. It has become the nic Fort, built in 1808 to stop the approach world’s best example of the Eocene/Oligoce- of British ships and now a hotel, the little ne eras and is now equipped for visits. Conti- Romanesque church of Santa Maria and the nuing south, you will see the splendid Sirolo, the ‚Pearl of Conero‘ and a balcony over the beaches of Due Sorelle, Urbani and San Michele-Sassi Neri. Walking on, we come across the me- dieval town of Numana, after which you will reach the long, fine pebbled beach of Mar- celli, a tourist centre where most of the accommodati- on in the Riviera del Conero can be found. Then there is Camerano, with its ancient origins and its subsoil that is marked by a complex under- ground path.

29

GOLA DELLA ROSSA E FRASASSI REGIONAL NATURE PARK

The Gola della Rossa e di Frasassi Regi- Gola di Frasassi, causes the deep sulp- onal Nature Park represents the “green hurous waters to rise, generating a fluid colour” of the Marche Region. that is extremely aggressive against the Created in September 1997, its 10,026 limestone. These processes, intervalled hectares make it the largest protected by local collapses, made the dimensions area of the region and it includes three dif- of the many underground spaces gigan- ferent biotopes: the canyon of the Gola di tic and these appear as highly articulated Frasassi, that of the Gola della Rossa and karstic complexes with an extraordinary the Scappuccia Valley. A trip into the Park environmental scenic value, like in the is a „journey into the heart of the Marche case of the famous (Grot- region“, to discover historical and artistic te di Frasassi). treasures that are hidden by the charming, On a silent journey of about an hour, you harmonious landscapes and surrounded will be amazed as you admire the small by untouched, thriving nature. lakes, and , until you reach the majestic cave of the Abis- THE TERRITORY so Ancona (240 m high) (Ancona Abyss), The geology of the area is very distincti- the Sala delle Candeline (Hall of Candles), ve: approximately one million years ago, Sala dell‘Orsa (Hall of the Bear) and the a sharp orogenic rise created an increase Sala dell’Infinito (Hall of Infinity). Water in the potential energy of the watercour- catchment has been carried out for some ses that, by deeply affecting the ridges, time now, for the sulphurous water pools unearthed a limestone massif, compact to be used at the San Vittore Spa, where and rigid enough to preserve itself in im- they are used for therapies against respi- posing vertical blocks. Today, the ridge ratory and rheumatic disorders. of Frasassi is carved out of the Gola di The Gola della Rossa is similar in appea- Frasassi, while the structure of Monte Pie- rance to that of Frasassi and contains trosa-Monte Murano is cut out of the Gola vast karstic caves, such as the Grotta del della Rossa. The basins and hilly areas, Vernino, where several interesting fossils however, correspond to tectonic depres- of mammals were found, like that of the sions and marl or clay-sandstone rocks, cave bear. mainly found0 in the northern area of the The Scappuccia Valley, which is crossed park where the high grounds are evident. by the Scappuccia river that forms a The penetration of meteoritic water and rather narrow, winding gorge, features a groundwater inside the rock, widening wide variety of surroundings and, thus, the fractures (thanks to chemical corro- vegetation that is conditioned by the sub- sion favoured by the presence of dissol- strate, by light exposure, by altitude and ved carbon dioxide) in the eastern area of the presence of water.

31 NATURE falcon, of which at least 3 couples nest in Some of the species found in the park are of the area. significant naturalistic value. It is a true jewel The nocturnal birds of prey include the litt- of biodiversity, thanks to its 105 species of le owl, the barn owl, the tawny owl and the nest-building birds, 40 species of mammals, long-eared owl; the presence of the Eura- 29 species of reptiles and amphibians and sian eagle owl was also recently confirmed over 1,250 species of plants. in a neighbouring area of the park. Of the Among the birds, the golden eagle is an im- mammals, the wolf is a significant presence portant presence and is at the top of a food and, in recent decades, has recolonized the network consisting of mammals, birds, am- mountainous ridge of the Marche region, phibians, and crustaceans. The only couple thanks to demographic expansion of prey of golden eagles in the species, like the wild boar, fallow deer, roe nest in this park, specifically in the Gola di deer and the deer. The presence of the wild- Frasassi. There is also a significant presence cat and the skunk has been confirmed, as of other birds of prey, such as the Northern well as the more common fox, the weasel, goshawk, the short-toed snake eagle, the the beech marten and the badger. red kite, the Lanner falcon and the Peregrine The numerous underground caves present

32 in this area are home to at least 12 different Info species of bat. The colonies of the common Main office bent-winged bat in the park are among the Parco Naturale Gola della Rossa e di Frasassi largest in Europe, with over 12,000 speci- Complesso S. Lucia - Via Marcellini, 5 mens, both in wintering sites and in bree- 60048 Serra San Quirico (AN) ding nurseries. Among the cave-dwelling Tel. 0731 86122 Fax 0731 880030 species, as well as the Italian salamander, a [email protected] species endemic to the caves of central and www.parcogolarossa.it , there is also a considerable Comunità Montana dell’Esino-Frasassi presence of the Niphargus ictus, a small en- Via Dante, 268 demic crustacean that populates the ponds 60044 Fabriano (An) Tel. 0732 6951 - Fax 0732 695251 in the caves, as well as other invertebrates [email protected] such as the Nesticus eremita, the Meta me- www.cmesinofrasassi.it rianae, etc. Casa del Parco di With respect to flora, Hop hornbeams Former church of S. Giovanni Battista Entro le Mura woods are common in the calcareous areas C.so Mazzini 60011 Arcevia (AN) of the hilly plain, while the downy oak pre- vails in the marl-sandstone areas. Casa del Parco di Castelletta Castelletta di Fabriano Beech woods grow on the mountain plain 60044 Fabriano (AN) and in particularly damp areas, while on the Casa del Parco “Ex Mulino” warmer slopes of the rocky gorges the ve- di San Vittore di Genga getation is typically Mediterranean and in- San Vittore di Genga cludes the Holm oak, the wild madder, the 60040 Genga (AN) terebinth, the phillyrea, the strawberry tree, Comuni del Parco Arcevia, Cerreto d’Esi, Fabriano the asparagus and the rough bindweed. In Genga, Serra San Quirico the summit areas of the territory, there are extensive grassland formations of seconda- ry origin, representing an ecosystem of great naturalistic interest, due to the presence of condary grasslands hold the highest level rare species or species protected by current of conservationist importance, identifying national and international regulations. them as a „priority“ environment under the This habitat is rich with different species of Habitats Directive. the orchid family and originates from the Numerous rare botanic species grow in the wood-cutting carried out by man since an- Park. Among these, there is the Moehringia cient times, to create useful spaces for the papulosa, an endemic species of the Apen- breeding and grazing of livestock, for hay- nines: the only places in the world in which making and for growing herbaceous plants it can be found are the gorges of Frasassi, and trees for food. To underline its impor- Rossa and Furlo. Then there is the Potentilla tance from a conservationist viewpoint, in caulescens, the Saxifraga australis, ende- the light of the trend towards abandonment mic to the central and southern Apennines, leading to its gradual disappearance resul- and the Ephedra major, a relic from the Ter- ting from natural evolutionary processes, tiary Era, found on the rocks of the Scap- the European Union recognizes that the se- puccia Valley.

33 The territory is rich in history and art left by man, since time immemorial. In the area of Frasassi, there are some of the oldest traces of human presence (the Grotta del Prete in Pianello di Genga). But the most abundant evidence dates back to the middle ages: there is a dense network of castles, chur- ches and monasteries of exceptional his- torical and artistic value. These include the Abbey of San Vittore alle Chiuse, founded at the end of the 10th century and among the richest religious settlements in the area, as well as being one of the most important ex- amples of Romanesque architecture in the Marche region. There is also the sanctuary of Santa Maria infra Saxa and the Tempiet- to, a domed octagonal building, commissi- oned by Pope Leo XII to Giuseppe Valadier and located inside an immense cave; the abbey of St. Elena, in Romanesque style, located downstream of the Gola della Ros- sa, founded by St. Romualdo at the begin- ning of the 11th century; the Abbey of Val di TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES Castro, built in the early 11th century by St. Today, the Park can offer a network of at Romualdo, who died there in 1027, which least 35 hiking trails, all marked out, total- contains interesting frescoes. ling over 170 km, with varying durations and Fabriano deserves a visit, with its churches various levels of difficulty, suitable for tou- rich in works of art, the Art gallery and the rists and also for experienced hikers. Museum of Paper and Watermarks, as does The trails allow you to admire a wealth of Arcevia with its beautiful medieval town flora and wildlife typical of the pre-Apennine centre. In the Park, next to the small cast- environment. You can also practice other le villages of Avacelli, Castelletta and Pie- sports in contact with nature: mountain rosara, are the towns of Serra San Quirico biking on dirt roads and cart tracks over with its „copertelle“ or covered roads that tens of kilometres, both at high altitudes and in the valley, horseback riding along served as patrol routes, and Genga, which the dense network of mule trails, mountai- still preserves its medieval urban structure, neering and sport climbing on the vertical li- boundary walls and Palace of the Counts of mestone walls of the gorges and of the main Genga, still intact. mountains, and, in certain peri- ods of the year, canoeing and rafting too.

34

ABBADIA DI FIASTRA NATURE RESERVE

The Abbadia di Fiastra Nature Reserve of is ronment that is welcoming, harmonious and a real treasure trove of history, culture, na- the expression of a balanced relationship ture and traditions, offering visitors a unique between man and nature. environment in which they can discover the The value of this area is, therefore, directly evolution of the natural environment and the linked to its history. In fact, in 1142, the Cis- „signs“ left by man over the centuries. The tercian Abbey of Santa Maria di Chiaravalle Reserve was established in 1984 and sub- di Fiastra was built, when Guarnerio II, Duke sequently, in 1985, it was recognized, by De- of Spoleto and Marquis of the March of An- cree of the Ministry of Agriculture and Fore- cona, donated a vast area near the Fiastra stry, as a „State Nature Reserve“. It includes River to the Cistercian monks of the Abbey 1,825 hectares of land surrounding the Ab- of Chiaravalle in . For its construction, bey of Chiaravalle di Fiastra and today you the monks „obtained“ building materials can still see traces of the long presence and from the nearby Roman town of Urbs Sal- the work of the Cistercian monks. via, which had been looted and destroyed by Alaric between 408 and 410. At the same THE TERRITORY time, the monks started the reclamation of – HISTORY AND CULTURE the surrounding land. The territory of the Nature Reserve, owned The Abbadia di Fiastra was one of the most by the Giustiniani Bandini Foundation, is in important and powerful monastic settle- the municipalities of Urbisaglia and Tolen- ments in Central Italy. For over three centu- tino and falls in the middle-hills in the Pro- ries, it was the centre of fervent economic, vince of Macerata, ranging from 130 to 306 social and cultural activities, promoting the m, and more exactly, between the Valley development of the entire area. In 1773, the of the Chienti River and the Fiastra River, entire property was given up to the noble fa- which is its largest tributary. mily of Giustiniani Bandini. In 1918, the last In addition to the abbey complex, there male heir, Sigismund, died, leaving all pro- is also large area devoted to agriculture perties to a foundation named after himself. in the territory, which retains many typical The Cistercian-Lombard Borgognone-style elements of the rural landscape of Marche, church has three naves and occupies the a vision that has disappeared elsewhere. north side of the cloister. The Abbey over- There is also a „forest“ of over 100 hectares looks it, as does the Palazzo Giustiniani - the last example of the ancient forests that Bandini on the south side. once covered the hills of the Marche region. In March 1985, invited by the Foundation, In the Abbadia di Fiastra Nature Reserve, the Cistercian monks, again coming from created to protect the lands belonging to Milan, returned to live in the Abbey of Chia- the Cistercian monks and shaped by them ravalle di Fiastra. over the centuries, you can enjoy an envi- Their presence brought new life to the anci-

37 ent monastery, once more making it a spiritu- NATURE al reference point for many people. The Forest, which extends over about 100 The premises of the Abbey and of Palazzo hectares, is the heart of the Nature Reserve. Giustiniani Bandini contain an interesting It still has a considerable surface area, ma- Archaeological Collection, with artefacts, king it the latest example of a large forest sculptures and epigraphs from the town of that, until 1700, covered the entire area of the Urbs Salvia; there is also a Wine Museum, hills in the . The Turkey where instruments and objects used in the oak is predominant in this forest, which is in- past for processing grapes are on display, habited by numerous wild animals including and a Museum of country civilization, with the roe deer. agricultural tools and utensils from the 19th Like the Forest, the „Le Vene“ pond and the and early 20th centuries. The Abbey complex Entogge and Fiastra waterways, important also includes a Conference Centre. and evocative wetlands, are protected areas, The territory of the nature reserve is divided due to the fact that they are rich in vegetation into three areas, with homogeneous environ- and wildlife. As well as the Turkey oak, there mental characteristics and differentiated ma- are also the downy oak, the English oak, the nagement criteria: Special Protected Nature Manna ash and the field maple In the territory Reserve that includes a wood, an Anthropo- of the reserve. Among the mammals, as well logical Reserve, including the entire Abbey as the roe deer, reintroduced in 1957, there complex and a Protected Area with all the are also beech martens, badgers, weasels, farming areas. porcupines and foxes, while the bird popu-

38 Info Nature Reserve Offices Tel. 0733 201049 Fax 0733 522746 [email protected] www.abbadiafiastra.net Giustiniani Bandini Foundation Offices and Conference Centre Tel. 0733 202122 [email protected] Information Office Meridiana srl Guided tour bookings Tel. 0733 202942 Fax 0733 205042 lation includes the Eurasian sparrow hawk, [email protected] www.meridianasrl.it the little owl, the tawny owl, the European Park Municipalities green woodpecker, the Eurasian nuthatch, Tolentino, Urbisaglia the short-toed tree creeper, the hoopoe and many other passerines, typical of the of fo- rest environment. The cultivated fields and their relative farm- houses, located in the Protected Area, are the the river Fiastra, allowing you to observe the result of centuries of farming activities carried migratory birds and roe deer; the sensory trail out with love and respect for the rhythms of „the woods and the river“ (il bosco e il fiume) nature: the widespread housing stock, con- is accessible to all and allows you to disco- sisting of 79 settlements, has been preserved ver the reserve using „all of your senses“, or in its original beauty thanks to the continuity rather, not just your eyes. of ownership and to the care determined by The area also has a Centre of Environmental an ancient tenant farming-type relationship. Education, featuring an audio-visual projec- tion room, a Visitor Centre in which you can TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES purchase books, objects and clothing dis- Visiting and living the Natural Reserve is a playing the symbol of the Nature Reserve. unique and unforgettable experience, thanks Environmental discovery activities are also to the harmony and balance of the landscape, organized here, for both nature and history, the soft sounds that waft through the air and thanks to the support of nature guides and the colours that characterize every season. tourist guides. A variety of interesting guided There are a variety of opportunities for enjoy- tours and educational workshops are offered ing contact with the different natural environ- to school groups and are specifically desig- ments: in fact, a recent reorganization of the ned for students of different age groups. The- trails took place, including spaces for pedest- re are also picnic areas in the Nature Reserve, rians, cyclists and those who love horse riding. as well as a camper service, ample parking, The „Forest“ (La Selva) trail leads into the toilet facilities, bars, pizzerias, restaurants, woods; the“Le Vene lake“ trail crosses the shops selling local products and various ac- agricultural territory between the forest and commodation facilities.

39

GOLA DEL FURLO STATE NATURE RESERVE

Established in 2001, the Gola del Furlo State geological history of Italy of more than 200 Nature Reserve, located within the territory of million years ago. Its rocks illustrate the main the municipalities of Acqualagna, Cagli, Fer- formations of the Umbria-Marche Apennines: mignano, and Urbino, features solid limestone, carnelian, rosso ammonitico 3,627 hectares of woods, pastures and un- limestone (inside which there are various ty- spoilt peaks; an authentic paradise, crossed pes of fossil), nodular limestones and scag- by the Candigliano River that winds between liola stone. the imposing rocky walls of the Gola (Gorge), where evocative landscape combines with FLORA lavish naturalistic wealth. It is because of these unusual characteristics that the Monti del Furlo are home to a wide THE TERRITORY variety of flora, where common plants alter- – HISTORY AND CULTURE nate with rare specimens. The walls of the Furlo, between Mount Pietra- For example, there is the campanula di tanfa- lata (889 m) and Mount Paganuccio (976 m), nii Podlech, the Edraianthus graminifolius, the are a display of impressive, majestic scenery. dawarf hawkweed, the rare and endemic Mo- Squeezed in between the rock, a dam crosses ehringia papulosa with its small, white flowers the valley floor, forming a picturesque artificial that have four petals, the maidenhair spleen- lake. It is here that the consular Via Flaminia wort, the Apenine Bermuda grass, the Rock road once passed, linking to Fano, on buckthorn, the Dwarf buckthorn, the Leopol- the . As the commemorative in- dia comosa, the St. Bernard’s lily, the Heath scription reminds us, in 76-77 AD, the Emper- leaved rock rose, the German-madwort, the or Vespasian, had a tunnel dug in the narro- strawberry tree, the Piptatherum virescens, west point of the gorge, to facilitate passage through it. The tunnel, called petra pertusa or forulus – which is where the name Furlo ori- ginated - is 38.30 m long in the ancient part, with its widest point measuring 5.47 m and 5.95 m high. At the mouth of the passage, the- re is a stretch of flat road that was travelled along before it was excavated. Two entrances to a second tunnel open up onto it, which was perhaps built by the Roman Consul, Flaminius, in 217 BC, and on which old ruts from the fre- quent passage of vehicles wheels are visible. The landscape and the morphology of the Gola del Furlo allow us to reconstruct the

41 the Grassy leaved iris, the bittersweet nights- Info hade, the bittercress, the Northern hollyfern, Gola del Furlo State Nature Reserve the Sand crocus and numerous orchids, Via Flaminia among which the military orchid and the and Loc. Furlo Acqualagna Tel. 0721 700041 Roman Dactylorhiza. Among the tree species, Fax 0721 700057 there is the Holm oak that, along with the [email protected] strawberry tree, can be found in the south- Nature Reserve Management Authority facing limestone areas, the Manna ash, the Pesaro and Urbino Provincial Administration Rowan, the Hop hornbeam, the Turkey oak Urban Planning Service – Territorial Planning and, at higher elevations, the beech. VIA - VAS - Aree Protette Via Gramsci, 4 61121 Pesaro (PU) WILDLIFE Tel. 0721 3591 There is a wealth of very diverse wildlife in Fax 0721 359406 the park: the species of mammals include, in Park Municipalities particular, the wolf, the porcupine and the roe Acqualagna, Cagli, Fermignano, Fossombrone e Urbino deer, as well as other more common species such as the skunk, the fox, the weasel, the beech marten, the badger and the wild boar. There are also numerous birds of prey that is the golden eagle, as well as the Eurasi- use the walls of the gorge for nesting and the an sparrow hawk and the Peregrine falcon. meadows at the summit for hunting. Among Other noteworthy birds, typical inhabitants the most interesting ones to observe, there of the rocky areas, are the swift, the Crag

42 martin, the blue rock thrush and the delica- In the Territory’s “Lorenzo Mannozzi Torini” te and charming wall creeper. Other nesting Museum you can also get other useful infor- species, both passing through and wintering, mation about the natural environment and include the Great cormorant, the Montagu‘s the historical events that have characterized Harrier, the Northern goshawk, the buzzard, the area. The Benedictine Abbey of San Vin- the short-toed snake eagle, the Kestrel, the cenzo al Furlo (8th century) is worth visiting. hobby, the Alpine swift and, occasionally, It was renovated in 1271 and it was here that also the Griffon vulture. The reptiles present St. Romualdo (1011) and St. Pier Damiani in the park include the dice snake, the four- (1042) once stayed. Another place to see lined snake, the coronella girondica and the is the Sanctuary of Pelingo, inside which three-toed skink, while the amphibian spe- there is a fifteenth-century fresco depicting cies include the great crested newt, the Italian the Madonna and Child. In 1922, Mussolini stream frog and the Italian cave salamander; passed through and, in 1936, the forestry among the fish, there is the eel, the bleak, the militia decided to immortalize the image of Il common barbel, the chub, the South Euro- Duce, creating the famous profile that is still pean nase and the Padanian goby, etc. partially visible on the south-eastern side of Mount Paganuccio. Inside the reserve, there TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES are two protected floristic areas, specifically Walks and excursions are organized in the re- in the Gola del Furlo and on Mount Paganuc- serve, with expert guides, allowing each visitor cio. Furthermore, the area lies within a Site to fully appreciate the values and the distinctive of Community Importance (SCI) and inside a historical and naturalistic features of the area. Special Protected Area (SPA).

43 MONTAGNA DI TORRICCHIO NATURE RESERVE

The Torricchio Nature Reser- recognized as a Council of Umbria-Marche Apennines, ve was established in 1970 Europe Biogenetic Reserve. a short distance from Monti by Decree of the Dean of the The Reserve, which ext- Sibillini National Park. University of Camerino, who ends over an area of 317.12 obtained this land as a dona- hectares, is located in the THE TERRITORY tion made by Marquis Mario municipalities of Pievetori- Most of the territory is co- Incisa della Rocchetta, then na and Monte Cavallo in the vered with pastures and a President of the Italian WWF province of Macerata, with small part consists of mo- Association. It was then re- heights from 820 to 1,491 wable meadows, while the cognised as a State Nature m in the Val di Tazza valley, forest is mainly limited to Reserve by a Ministerial De- between the mountains of the sides of the Val di Tazza cree, dated 7 April, 1977, Cetrognola (1,575 m) and valley, which feature copses and later, in 1979, it was also Torricchio (1,444 m), on the and groups of tall trees.

44 The area was originally used as a supply of timber and as a pasture for sheep, which came there from the count- ryside around Rome. Today the area is protected as an in- tegral nature reserve and, by Statute, it is intended primari- ly for activities of scientific re- search. Geologically, the area features limestone, limestone- marl and marl formations.

NATURE For its size, the reserve con- ve 850-900 metres; the Holm the weasel, the badger, the tains a remarkable number oak is also common, found marten and the porcupine. of plant species. This is due in small groups in the rocky The presence of bears, albeit to the fact that there are two areas, as well as the holly, the sporadic, has also been do- altitudinal belts of vegetati- sycamore, the yew, which is cumented. on in the reserve (hills and rarer and more localized, the The Avifauna is represented mountains), diversity of en- Hop hornbeam, the manna by steppe species, such as vironments (pastures, fertile ash and the downy oak. The the grey partridge and the meadows, woods, ravines, numerous habitats provide rock partridge, as well as canyons, etc.) and wides- niches suitable for a wealth of several birds of prey, like the pread dynamic processes flora (652 catalogued entities), European honey buzzard, the that were triggered following among which several ende- Eurasian sparrow hawk and the protective measures that mic species stand out, inclu- the kestrel. Also present are were taken. The most com- ding the Viola eugeniae ssp. the hoopoe, the European mon tree species is the beech, eugeniae, the Gentianella co- green woodpecker, the les- which forms the woods abo- lumnae, the Campanula tan- ser spotted woodpecker, fanii, the Campanula apenni- the common redstart and na and the Trisetum villosum. the tawny pipit. At 1,126 m INFO With regard to wildlife, the above sea level, on a ter- species of mammals present race next to the valley floor, University of Camerino School of Environmental Sciences include wolves, which transit stands Casale Piscini, a buil- Offices: in the area and whose images ding constructed as far back Via Pontoni, 5 - 62032 Camerino (MC) have been repeatedly captu- as 1874, which served as a Tel. 0737 404512 - 404503 red by photo-traps. Deer from shelter for shepherds in the Fax 0737 404508 [email protected] the Sibillini mountains also summer grazing period. Cur- web.unicam.it/botanica/index.htm go in the reserve, along with rently, since 1970, it is used Park Municipalities other species like the squir- as a facility for the reserve’s Pievetorina, Monte Cavallo rel, the wildcat, the roe deer, management authority.

45

MONTE SAN VICINO AND MONTE CANFAITO REGIONAL NATURE RESERVE

This is the newest regional nature reserve in and Puro), took place in the Cretaceous pe- Marche: in fact, it was established in 2009. riod, with deposits of about 120 million years The protected area extends for 1,452.13 hec- old. For millions of years, under different con- tares, between the municipalities of San Se- ditions, the formation of deposits continued verino, Matelica, Apiro and Gagliole. in what geologists call the “Umbria-Marche succession” up until the great tectonic mo- THE TERRITORY vement of the continental plates that then The area of the reserve, located in the pre- caused the emergence of mountain ranges. Apennine strip, is a mountainous-hilltop area, The particular orography of the territory, with with altitudes ranging from 450 to 1,479 m, cor- large stretches of lowland alternating with responding to the summit of Monte San Vicino. deeply formed dales, has created unique and It is the most visible and recognizable peak evocative places, crossed by narrow can- in the Marche Apennine chain, not only be- yons similar to small gorges (Gola di Jana, cause it is the highest, but also because it Bocca de Pecu, Fosso del Crino) or adventu- is visible from almost any point in the sur- rous tunnel passages (hollow stone). A dense rounding area, showing its somewhat rocky network of hiking routes allows you to gain shape soaring above all the surrounding hills detailed knowledge of the nature and lands- and mountains. This makes it a very distin- cape of the territory. guishable and easily recognizable (even from The impressive scenery can be linked to the different angles) and, for this reason, it has flat area of the ridge and the relatively large always been the main reference point for the areas of woodland, alternating with pastu- whole territory. res, together making a particularly gentle The territory of the reserve is characterized and harmonious landscape, even though its by solid limestone formations from the Late origin is anthropic. The boundaries of the re- Triassic period and, in addition to Monte San serve also encompass two areas, recognized Vicino, it also includes the Canfaito plateau, by European protocols as having significant located on its slopes. naturalistic value (SCI and SPA). The rocks that make up the San Vicino and Canfaito mountain range are mostly solid FLORA limestone formations from the Jurassic pe- The vegetation is formed by large beech riod. Deposited more than 200 million years woods reduced to copse, in which there are, ago, they were followed by the formation of however, some centuries-old specimens (up the Bugarone (the Canfaito plains), with marl to 6 m in circumference). These veritable outcrops (Rosso Ammonitico) and flint limes- patriarchs of nature were saved from being tones (jasper limestones), rich in fossils. The chopped down because, during the warm formation of majolica, which is very common summer months, shepherds would take refu- (the mountains of Canfaito, Argentaro, Pereta ge in the shelter of their large foliage (known

47 as merigge - resting in the afternoon). ters below the rocks, inhabited since preh- The area has interesting flora, thanks to the istoric times, have brought us ancient tools presence of the saffron crocus, the two-leaf and stone utensils. squill, the yellow anemone, the coralroot bit- There is important evidence of the medieval tercress, the drooping bittercress, various religious past in this area: in particular, the types of orchid, the snowdrop, the wild pe- territory of San Vicino had the privilege of ony, the common Turk’s cap lily, the purple „hosting“ St. Romualdo, a Benedictine monk thymelaea passerina, the viola eugeniae and and founder of the Camaldolese order. It is the asphodelus. here that the Saint left his earthly life behind (1027). He was buried in the monastery of WILDLIFE Val di Castro, revered as a new St. Benedict, As for the wildlife, the wolf is an important pre- and the place immediately became a desti- sence, as is the roe deer and the wildcat. The- nation for pilgrims. For several centuries, his re are also numerous bird species: the golden remains were kept buried in the Abbey of Val- eagle, the eagle owl, the Peregrine falcon, the dicastro, beneath the San Vicino (now kept spotted woodpecker, the Lanner falcon, the in the Cathedral of Fabriano). A visit to the Eurasian sparrow hawk, the hen harrier, the village of Elcito is a must, with the unyielding buzzard, the kestrel and the European nightjar. solitude of the few stone houses there, it is a jewel surrounded by defensive walls and HISTORY AND CULTURE concentrated around the church of San Roc- There are abundant traces of history, art and co, a true unassailable bastion protecting the religion throughout the territory: human pre- trail that led from the St. Clemente valley to- sence has, in fact, been documented since wards the abbey of Val Fucina, defending its prehistoric times: the caves, gorges and shel- integrity and riches.

48 Of the nearby Abbey of Santa Maria in Val INFO Fucina, probably dating back to the 10th and Offices: 11th centuries, the capitals of the crypt still Mountain Community Area 4 remain, with geometric and zoomorphic de- Viale Mazzini, 29 signs and symbols of the four evangelists, the 62027 S. Severino Marche (MC) Tel. 0733 637246 only evidence remaining of the ancient Bene- [email protected] dictine coenobitic complex. Anther monastic PEC: [email protected] settlement that arose first as a Benedictine www.comsanseverino.sinp.net monastery, then reformed by St. Romualdo, www.riservamontesanvicino.it is that of Santa Maria de Rotis, “Roti”, going Park Municipalities up the Franciscan trail from Braccano. San Severino, Matelica, Apiro, Gagliole The first news of an abbot at Santa Maria de Rotis dates back to 1195, but its Foun- dation took place in earlier centuries, pro- Marche where the total absence of human bably because, at that time, the monastery habitation and beautiful natural surroundings was already at its finest glory. This destina- give you the impression that time has been tion and place of transit for pilgrims, on the standing still since the earliest monastic sett- road between Matelica and Cingoli, which is lements. From Roti, some important hiking now in poor condition, is located in an area trails branch out and find the ideal conditions of poignant beauty and is dedicated to pray- for a quiet „base camp“. Braccano and Chi- er and asceticism. At the top of the Valley, giano are two of the places linked to the his- known as the “Gola di Jana”, it links the slo- tory of the Italian Resistance Movement, the pes that descend from Canfaito and Monte Nazi-Fascist massacres and the sacrifice of Pagliano and is near a fortuitous pure water the partisans. spring. It can be reached on foot in about 30 minutes, by leaving your car a short distance TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES after Braccano. This is one of the places in The locations most frequented by tourists are Pian dell’Elmo and Apiro, which are well- equipped with accommodation facilities, and the Canfaito Plains, a popular destination for picnics, walking and horseback riding. A dense network of trails, all marked out on the ground, make it possible to go on easy hikes with moderate slopes. Only a few paths, intended for the more ex- perienced walkers, require more time and usually lead to the peaks of the highest mountains, like the San Vicino. The greater effort required will be rewarded with unique views and landscapes, stretching as far as the horizon, across the Apennine ridge and down to the sea.

49

“RIPA BIANCA DI JESI” REGIONAL NATURE RESERVE

The Ripa Bianca di Jesi nature reserve was lanques“ (rocky inlets). Inside the reserve, formerly (from 1997) a WWF oasis. The re- there are four different types of environment: serve was established in January 2003 and lake, river, agricultural and calanque. extends over 310.86 hectares; inside it, there is the „Sergio Romagnoli“ didactic- FLORA naturalistic area, named after this naturalist The riparian vegetation of the Esino River, from Jesi who undertook the battle for its running through the area today, is compo- protection. sed of a narrow band of trees and shrubs. The conservation and restoration of the ri- THE TERRITORY parian woods are indispensable, not only Located in the town of Jesi (AN), midway for the wildlife that finds shelter and food between the regional parks of Monte Co- there, but also for the purification and regu- nero and Gola della Rossa e Frasassi, it is lation of the waters. The vegetation on the crossed by the river Esino, and is one of river banks consists of a strip of land con- the most important wetlands in the Marche taining willows in the innermost area and a region. tree belt in the outermost area, with white Up until the 1980s, the site was a long way willows and black and white poplars. Allo- from being an area of natural interest: near cthonous species, introduced by man, are the rocky inlet area, there was the landfill of widespread here, including the black locust, the municipality of Jesi and, not far away, the tree of heaven and the aspen. The type there was also the active quarry of San Bi- of vegetation growing on the banks is typi- agio, where gravel was extracted, which cal of wetlands and watercourses, with the meant the continuous transit of lorries and presence of domestic cane reeds, colonized bulldozers; the remaining landscape was by climbing species like the hop, the field made up of farmlands that extended as far bindweed, the bittersweet nightshade and as the river. the white vine. Today, a visit to the reserve is a tangible ex- Living conditions are very difficult for the ample of how strongly anthropogenic places vegetation in the calanque area. In fact, can be restored to nature and can, therefore, the plants in these rocky inlets or calanque ensure that important „ecosystem services“ areas are true “colonizing” pioneers, thanks are performed, which are also fundamental to their special morphological and biologi- for the social and economic well-being of cal ability to adapt. On the walls, the most the surrounding areas. typical species is the wormwood of the ca- The territory extends from the banks of the lanques, which is resistant to the harsh en- Esino River up to the slopes of the hills, si- vironmental conditions, the corn sow thistle tuated on the right bank, characterized by and the hawkweed oxtongue, while on the unusual forms of soil erosion called „ca- borders, woody species can be found, like

51 common hawthorn, broom, sloe bushes and the cuckoo, the barn owl, the tawny owl, tamarisk. the Eurasian scops owl, the kingfisher and Species often present in the basal, wettest others. area, include the great horsetail, the Canna The Ripabianca reserve is, above all, an en- of Pliny, the Festuca arundinacea and the vironment truly favoured by herons: The only common coltsfoot. heronry in the region of Marche is here, whe- The vegetation that colonizes the stagnant re night herons, egrets, white herons and or slightly flowing water is characterized by little bitterns nest, making it a site of great Jacobaea paludos, tall grasses with their naturalistic interest. In recent years, as well base immersed in water, and by submerged as these bird species, other birds have star- rooted vegetation and floating vegetation. ted to nest in the area, representing a place The quarry of San Biagio was a deep injury of unique naturalistic value in the Marche re- to the landscape, caused by man in order to gion. These include the squacco heron, the extract gravel. This mining activity came to cattle egret and the pigmy cormorant. Nor- an end about twenty years ago, leaving na- mally noisy, the heronry resembles a large ture to take over. The great depression that apartment building, an extraordinary place the bulldozers had created is now covered in which more than 100 couples of breeding by water. The picturesque little lake takes up herons nest in the spring, between the trees more than 2 hectares and reaches a maxi- in the canebrake. From comfortable obser- mum depth of just over 4 m. As well as ha- vation huts, you can admire them as they ving great naturalistic importance, the basin build their nests, during courtship and ma- and the banks that surround it also have a ting or while they prompt the young birds to significant educational value, because they take their first flight. show how nature is able to heal the wounds As for the reptiles and amphibians, as well caused by man. Hedges were planted in the as the most common species, it is particu- agricultural part of the educational area and larly interesting to discover the slow worm, along the trails, performing important func- the dice snake and the spotted newt. In- tions: acting as screens and windbreakers, side the „Sergio Romagnoli“ educational aiding feeding and nesting and providing area, there are some specimens of the shelter for wildlife. Tree and shrub species common tortoise (Testudo hermanni), to were planted according to a functional cri- which a wildlife area has been dedicated, terion that is also useful for teaching pur- with the educational and conservational poses: this is how hedges of lesser fruits, goal of acquainting visitors with this inte- hedges of staining plants, hedges for avifau- resting species and thus contributing to its na and hedges for butterflies were created. preservation: in fact, the capture and capti- ve breeding of all European species of tor- WILDLIFE toises is0 prohibited by law. The basin of the Esino River is a nesting, wintering and aestivation site for numerous TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES bird species, with suitable areas for migrato- The Ripa Bianca di Jesi Nature Centre in the ry birds to stop over and feed. The nesting Regional Nature Reserve has its head office species that have been identified include the based in the farmhouse complex, located kestrel, the hobby, the common pheasant, within the „Sergio Romagnoli“ educational

52 area, which has been completely renovated INFO according to modern ecological architectu- Via Zanibelli, 2 ral criteria. The Nature Centre offers a wide 60035 Jesi (An) range of services aimed at preservation, Tel. e Fax 0731 619213 education, environmental information and Secretariat and Environmental Education sustainable living. Tel. 334 6047703 [email protected] It is also home to the „Sergio Romagnoli“ www.riservaripabianca.it CEE (Centre of Environmental Education) Facebook: Riserva Ripa Bianca with a conference room, an Entomological laboratory, a workshop for hands-on expe- Park Municipalities Jesi rience, a room dedicated to teaching about the fluvial environment, an aquarium and a remote camera system positioned over the heronry, as well as other interesting facilities of sustainable agriculture, itineraries and and services. The „Ripa Bianca“ Ornitho- thematic workshops linked to work, habits logical Institute is dedicated to the study and rural memories are offered. In it, there of the avifauna in the middle and low are- is an organic vineyard, an orchard of for- as of the Vallesina. In fact, it is here that the gotten flavours, a field of perfumes for the monitoring and census of birds is carried cultivation of medicinal and aromatic herbs, out, both for migratory and wintering birds, a teaching chicken and an area of also by using the technique of ringing. The arable land dedicated to organic cultivation “Ripa Bianca” Entomological Institute, on of traditional cereals and pulses. The plots the other hand, deals with study, distributi- are interspersed by rows of olive trees, thus on and education relative to the important recovering the ancient „tree-lined“ Marche world of insects and other arthropods. The landscape. The area used as a vegetable Microcosm Teaching Area is an integral garden is tended by people who have joined part of the Institute. Ripa Bianca is also an the intergenerational integration and spatial educational farm and, through the teaching continuity project (Reserve - Town) „grand- father cultivates: adopt an organic garden“ aiming at passing on knowledge and rural culture and offering the opportunity to culti- vate an organic family vegetable garden for the residents of Jesi. The „Ripa Bianca di Jesi“ Nature Reserve is therefore a story with a happy ending. Here, the commitment and efforts of the WWF Italy, which is currently the management authority of the protected area, along with the public administrations and the ecolo- gical regeneration of nature, have made it possible, in just over two decades, to turn a landfill into a treasure chest of protected biodiversity.

53

SENTINA NATURE RESERVE

Established on 14 December 2004, la Sen- whole of the central and southern Adriatic tina Regional Nature Reserve is the smallest area of Italy. protected area in the Marche region, but one of great environmental significance. FLORA The location, as well as being singled out THE TERRITORY by the Marche Regional Authority as a A landscape of water and sand that stret- „Floristic Area“, is part of the European ches for about 180 hectares, inside the Union’s Natura 2000 network; in fact, it is Municipality of , recognized both as a SCI - Site of Commu- between the village of Porto d‘Ascoli in the nity Importance (IT5340001 „Porto d‘Ascoli North and the Tronto River in the South. Coastline“) and as a SPA - Special Protec- Along the Adriatic coast, which appears as tion Area (IT5340022 „Porto d‘Ascoli Coast- a succession of urbanized areas with al- line, La Sentina“) in accordance with the most no interruption, the Sentina Reserve Habitats and Birds Directives. is a veritable „reminder“ of the past — that The most important species of flora include is, how the coastline appeared before the the Salicornia patula, the Euphorbia terraci- economic boom of the ‘60s. The name „Sentina“ comes from its most distinctive feature, namely that of being a natural extended detention pond of the River Tronto (the main river in the Marche region), which flows here. Numerous histo- rical documents testify to the presence of lakes and ponds, which have been drained and cleaned up over time, but that today are present once more, thanks to environmen- tal recovery interventions carried out by the protected area. The Sentina consists of unique environ- ments including sand bars, wetlands be- hind the dunes and brackish grasslands, which are home to a rich, unique flora that has disappeared almost the entirely along the Adriatic coast. Despite its small size, over 400 plant species exist here, ma- king this area one of exceptional floristic and bio-geographical significance in the

55 na, the Atriplex portulacoides, the Salsola soda, the Suaeda maritima and the Aster tripolium. In winter, along the gulleys, banks and on the flooded clay soils, the common reed ap- pears, while on the banks of the river Tronto, several species of willow and white poplar can be found.

WILDLIFE In addition to the vegetation, the Sentina Reserve is also of great importance due to its avifauna, representing one of the rare resting places for migratory birds, located between the Gargano and the delta of the river Po. It was also identified as an IBA (Important Bird Area) by BirdLife Internati- onal. Here, over 180 species of birds have been counted, both migratory and wintering species, many of which are of Community interest. There are also several species of amphibians, reptiles, mammals and fish. The most interesting birds, which also have a high symbolic value, include the black- reserve, there have been episodes of sea winged stilt (symbol of the reserve), the turtles (Caretta Caretta) getting stranded Kentish plover, the kingfisher, the coot, the and in difficulty (due to the cold or injuries crane, the little egret, the Northern lapwing, caused by fishing activities). the Western marsh harrier and the short- toed lark. TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES The number of mammals living in the reser- There are numerous interesting traces ve is smaller, due to the strong anthropic of history dating back to the Bronze Age, pressure and the ecological isolation of the between the 13th and 14th centuries BC, area; however, several species of bats are documenting the existence of commercial present, fundamental for the biological con- and cultural exchanges between the Myce- trol of insects like mosquitoes, and there naeans and the local populations. Ancient are also hedgehogs, moles, musk shrews, Roman remains are represented by structu- weasels, beech martens and European res that can most likely be attributed to buil- water voles. There are 5 amphibian spe- dings and roads of the town of Truentum. cies and 7 reptile species present. Among The construction of the „Torre sul Porto“ the most important, there is the European (Tower on the Port) can be traced back to green toad, located along the gulleys and in a relatively recent period (1543). It has been the area behind the dunes, in both fresh and recently restored and was originally used for brackish waters. Along the shoreline of the spotting pirates. The rural architectural he-

56 ritage, built in 1800 and the early 1900s, is INFO also remarkable. Sentina Regional Nature Reserve The reserve, which can be visited via a net- Piazza Cesare Battisti, 1 work of pedestrian and cyclist trails, lies on 63074 San Benedetto del Tronto (AP) Tel. 0735 794278/279 the crossroads between the Adriatic bike Fax 0735 794277 lane and the Salaria bike lane, which be- [email protected] gins here and leads towards Rome and the www.riservasentina.it . Inside the reserve, there are Facebook: Naturschutzgebiet Sentina also numerous educational bulletin boards Management Authority and 6 turrets for bird-watching activities, Municipality of San Benedetto del Tronto Viale De Gasperi, 120 which are particularly useful especially du- 63074 San Benedetto del Tronto (AP) ring bird migration (spring and autumn). Tel. 0735 7941 The reserve undertakes a number of inte- www.comunesbt.it resting initiatives aimed at a diverse au- Park Municipality dience, from children, adults and experts in San Benedetto del Tronto the naturalistic sector to anyone who wants to discover this new world for the first time. These activities, coordinated by the „Torre sul Porto“ Centre of Environmental Educa- of the river Tronto using kayaks; events for tion (C.E.E.), see the participation and the raising awareness on the theme of the sea essential support of environmental associa- and sea turtles; development of educatio- tions that operate locally. nal publications; creation of on-going edu- Among the activities that take place, there cational projects for every type and level of are lectures in schools and guided tours for school, as well as scientific research. It is adults, children and the disabled; birdwat- also possible to arrange specific activities ching excursions, at sea and at the mouth at the request of users.

57

CENTRES OF ENVIRONMENTAL EDUCATION

The system of Information and Environmental Education (INFEE) in Marche consists of a territorial network formed by 44 Centres, the activities of which are implemented into a basic network. In the parks and nature reserves, the Centres of Environmental Education (CEE) are important places that provide information, training and environmental education for citizens in general and particularly for young people in schools. They also organize guided tours, allowing you to discover the territory, aided by qualified guides (experts in tourism, photography and mountain guides, etc.). Their work, which is defined by the sector in a three-year Regional Plan, is coordinated by the same management authorities of the parks and the nature reserves.

60 CEE (CENTRES OF ENVIRONMENTAL EDUCATION) IN THE PARKS AND NATURE RESERVES

Sergio Romagnoli CEE Tel. 0731 86122 Legambiente “Fillide” CEE Ripa Bianca nature reserve [email protected] Monti Sibillini National Park Via Zanibelli, 2 Via Indipendenza, 73 60035 Jesi (AN) Abbadia di Fiastra Nature 63857 Amandola (FM) Tel. 0731 619213 Reserve CEE Tel. 0736 847294 [email protected] Abbadia di Fiastra State [email protected] nature reserve Torre sul porto CEE Loc. Abbadia di Fiastra, 2 Rifugio di Cupi CEE Sentina nature reserve 62010 Urbisaglia (MC) Monti Sibillini National Park Lungomare Scipioni, 6 Tel. 0733 202942 Loc. Cupi di Visso – 63074 S. Benedetto del Tronto (AP) [email protected] Via Piana, 1 Tel. 0735 78971 62039 Visso (MC) [email protected] Valle dei Grilli and dell’Elce CEE Tel. 0737 971041 Monte San Vicino and Monte [email protected] Furlo and Valle del CEE Canfaito nature reserve State nature reserve Via Casetre, 19 Credia WWF CEE Gola del Furlo 62022 Gagliole (MC) Monti Sibillini National Park Via Pianacce, 1 Tel. 0737 641184 C.da Vallato snc 61041 Acqualagna (PU) [email protected] 62026 San Ginesio (MC) Tel. 0721 700224 Tel. 0733 694431 [email protected] Torricchio“Renzo Videsott” CEE [email protected] State Nature Reserve Sasso Simone e Simoncello Montagna di Torricchio Montegallo CEE park CEE Via Gioco del Pallone, 5 Monti Sibillini National Park Sasso Simone e Simoncello 62032 Camerino (MC) Fraz. Balzo – regional nature park Tel. 0737 402108 Via A. Caro, 15 Loc. Ponte Cappuccini [email protected] 63094 Montegallo (AP) Piazza Italia, 2 Tel. 340 5179971 61023 Pietrarubbia (PU) [email protected] Tel. 0722 75350 [email protected] In the Monti Sibillini: Vallenatura di Cessapalombo CEE Parco del Conero CEE Sibilla CEE Monti Sibillini National Park Monte Conero Monti Sibillini National Park C.da Fonte Girata, 3 regional nature park Villa Curi – Via Trieste, 15 62020 Cessapalombo (MC) Via Peschiera, 30/a 63088 Montemonaco (AP) Tel. 338 9889440 60020 Sirolo (AN) Tel. 0736 856340 [email protected] Tel. 071 9330066 [email protected] [email protected] Valle del Fiastrone CEE Due Parchi CEE Monti Sibillini National Park Gola della Rossa Monti Sibillini and Gran Sasso Via Del Lago, 5 62035 Fiastra (MC) and Frasassi park CEE Monti della Laga National Parks Tel. 0737 52185 Gola della Rossa and Frasassi Fraz. Borgo [email protected] regional nature park 63096 Arquata del Tronto (AP) Via Marcellini, 5 Tel. 0736 803915 60048 Serra San Quirico (AN) [email protected]

61

INDEX

page page Parks and nature reserves 3 Abbadia di Fiastra Nature Reserve 37 in The Marche region The territory – History and Culture Nature Monti Sibillini National Park 7 Tourism opportunities The territory Flora Gola del Furlo State Nature Reserve 41 Wildlife The territory - History and Culture History and culture Flora Tourism opportunities Wildlife Tourism opportunities Gran Sasso 13 and Monti della Laga National Park Montagna di Torricchio Nature Reserve 44 The territory The territory Flora Nature Wildlife Monte San Vicino and Monte Canfaito 47 Tourism opportunities Regional Nature Reserv Monte San Bartolo Regional Nature Park 17 The territory The territory Flora Flora Wildlife Wildlife History and Culture Tourism opportunities Tourism opportunities Sasso Simone e Simoncello 21 “Ripa Bianca di Jesi” 51 Interregional Nature Park Regional Nature Reserve The territory - History and Culture The territory Flora Flora Wildlife Wildlife Tourism opportunities Tourism opportunities Monte Conero Regional Nature Park 27 Sentina Nature Reserve 55 The territory - History and Culture The territory Flora Flora Wildlife Wildlife Tourism opportunities Tourism opportunities Gola della Rossa 31 Centres of Environmental Education 60 and Frasassi Regional Nature Park The CEE in the parks and nature reserves The territory Nature Tourism opportunities

Free distribution, 2014 Edition