REWILDING IN DENMARK
OS72_000 Cover.indd 1 1/23/17 11:33 AM
Editor-in-ChiEf Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Managing PartnEr & grouP Editor Ian Fairservice EditoriaL dirECtor Gina Johnson [email protected] grouP Editor Mark Evans [email protected] SEnior Editor Andrew Nagy [email protected] digitaL / Print dESignEr Rom Francisco [email protected] digitaL aniMator Surajit Dutta [email protected] VidEo Editor Donnie Miguel [email protected] Sub Editor Salil Kumar [email protected] EditoriaL aSSiStant Londresa Flores [email protected]
ContributorS Jade Bremner, Emma Coiler, Laura Coughlin, Geoff Brokate, Sarah Freeman, Jamie Knights, Paolo Mallari, Kaye Martindale, Matt Mostyn, Michel Parkin (folioart.co.uk), Stacey Siebritz, Sean Williams Cover: Brian Rasmussen – Randers Regnskov
ChiEf CoMMErCiaL offiCEr gEnEraL Anthony Milne [email protected] ManagEr ProduCtion S Sunil Kumar PubLiShEr grouP SaLES ManagEr SEnior SaLES dEPuty SaLES Jaya Balakrishnan - intErnationaL ManagEr ManagEr ProduCtion [email protected] Michael Underdown Shruti Srivastava Amar Kamath ManagEr [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] R Murali Krishnan
EditoriaL ConSuLtantS for EMiratES Editor Manna Talib arabiC Editor Hatem Omar dEPuty Editor Catherine Freeman WEbSitE emirates.com
InternatIonal MedIa representatIves auStraLia/nEW ZEaLand Okeeffe Media; Tel + 61 894 472 734, [email protected] bELgiuM and LuXEMbourg M.P.S. Benelux; Tel +322 720 9799, [email protected] China Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 gErMany IMV Internationale Medien Vermarktung GmbH; Tel +49 8151 550 8959, [email protected] hong Kong/MaLaySia/thaiLand Sonney Media Networks; Tel +852 2151 2351, [email protected] india Media Star; Tel +91 22 4220 2103, [email protected] JaPan Tandem Inc.; Tel + 81 3 3541 4166, [email protected] nEthErLandS giO media; Tel +31 (0)6 22238420, [email protected] PaKiStan D&S International News Agency; Tel +92 3235345727, [email protected] SWitZErLand, franCE/itaLy & SPain IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, [email protected] turKEy Media Ltd.; Tel +90 212 275 51 52, [email protected] uK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, [email protected] uSa World Media Inc.; Tel: +1 212 244 5610, [email protected]
Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.
125,959 copies Media One Tower, Dubai Media City PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE January – June 2016 Telephone: (+971 4) 427 3000 Fax: (+971 4) 428 2261 Email: [email protected] Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE | 7 |
OS72_06-07 Flannel & Editor's Letter.indd 6 1/23/17 6:47 PM Editor’s lE ttE r
ANDREW NAGY On THe COVer SenioR eDiToR
nybody who has visited the print around 26 years ago. However it’s greener parts of Europe over only been in the last few years that the A the past few years, might just impact has been felt across Europe, and have been lucky enough to catch a sight Open Skies was on hand to witness two of small herds of bison roaming freely projects in Denmark that are showing across the landscape. early signs of promise. On the face of it, they would appear One man who undoubtedly really lucky – the species was hunted to appreciates a preserved ecosystem extinction on that particular continent more than most, is the adventurer Ed in the early 20th century. But the Stafford. The British former military man reappearance is courtesy of a rewilding firmly believes in the need to explore project that could play a critical role in the planet and last year became the first maintaining the ecological community, person to walk the length of the Amazon rewilding in denmark THe realiTy is abOuT inTrOduCing This month’s cover is by Brian Rasmussen, and shows the bison at animals TO THe land and allOwing Denmark’s Randers Zoo in all its glory. Turn to page 46 to see a rewilding effort naTural prOCesses TO Take OVer that’s in full swing.
as well as help protect the future of River. Head to page 54 for the full story endangered species across the globe. – it’s worth it for the ‘wrongful arrest for Put simply, rewilding reintroduces murder’ story alone. top-of-the-food-chain predators to Fresh from the Amazon, we dive an ecosystem in a bid to preserve headfirst into a jungle of a different functionality and prevent biodiversity sort on page 40, with a piece on the loss. While it’s had more than its fair sprawling urban forest that is Manila. share of Jurassic Park press, the reality Our man moves around the Philippines’ couldn’t be further from the truth. This capital from day to night, from volcano is about introducing animals and allowing to dive bar, and not only discovers life natural processes to take over. in all its forms, but a local music scene The term was coined by the original that’s on the verge of its own extinction. eco warrior, Dave Foreman (the man Let’s hope it’s no lost cause. behind Earth First! and later The Rewilding Institute) and first appeared in Enjoy the issue.
nOw aVailable On yOur ipad
facebook.com/ twitter.com/ instagram.com/ LOOK OUT FOR THIS ICON ON EACH openskiesmag openskiesmag openskiesmag STORY IN OPEN SKIES FOR AN INSIGHT INTO THE WORLD OF EMIRATES
| 7 |
OS72_06-07 Flannel & Editor's Letter.indd 7 1/23/17 5:26 PM Qatar Jew Show.pdf 1 1/22/17 12:27 PM
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K CONTENTS
FRONT 12 16 20 26 30
Experience Lunch With Stay Food Neighbourhood
MAIN 40 46 54
Riffing In Manila Born To Rewild The Survivor
BRIEFING 64 70 72 74 76
Emirates News Inside Emirates Destination Comfort Customs & Visa Information 80 82 88 90
UAE Smart Gate Route Map Emirates Fleet The Guide
| 9 |
OS72_09 Contents.indd 9 1/23/17 6:58 PM
Carefully curated content focused on unique experiences
Food 26
Lunch With Stay Neighbourhood 16 20 30 FRONT
OS72_012-014 Experience.indd 11 1/23/17 1:32 PM ExpE riE ncE
February 22-24 EmiratEs airlinE Dubai Jazz FEstival Dubai, uaE Listen to the stars headlining this year’s Emirates Airline Dubai Jazz Festival on ice Digital Widescreen – including the Mariah Carey Playlist on Channel 3039 and Tom Jones on Channel 3068. Discover more of the great music on board in the ice guide in your seat pocket.
| 12 | | 13 |
OS72_012-014 Experience.indd 12 1/23/17 6:59 PM ExpE riE ncE
LEGEnds ArE in town this Month, As thE EMirAtEs AirLinE dubAi JAzz FEstivAL cELEbrAtEs its 15th AnnivErsAry with toM JonEs, MAriAh cArEy And EnriquE iGLEsiAs
It’s not just Dubai’s skyline that has changed considerably over the course of the past 15 years. The city’s culture – and the events that contribute to it – has evolved beyond all recognition, too. Take the Emirates Airline Dubai Jazz Festival, for example. Now in its 15th year, it’s gone from a three- day event with 1,200 people, to a three-day event with in excess of 36,000. As attendances grew along with the city, so did the profile of the headline acts. In the past 14 years, the stage has seen more than 500 shows, with the likes of Robin Gibb, Jamie Cullum, The Brand New Heavies, John legend, Deep Purple, Kool & The Gang, and Sting all performing. Not that the earlier artists were any less impressive. Jazz drummer Bobby Durham, who played the inaugural event in 2003, held the rare distinction of being one of the few people to be sacked by the legendary Duke Ellington. Durham, it turned out, was too much his own man to be confined by the structure of a band – even if it was a free-flowing jazz band. Understandably, the 15th anniversary is the most high profile yet. Legends are the order of the three-day line-up at Dubai Media City Amphitheatre. Tom Jones headlines the opening night, Mariah Carey plays day two, and Enrique Iglesias closes the whole thing out. And while the charge occasionally placed against it is that the jazz content is a little diluted, you need only check the full line-up to see that this couldn’t be further from the truth. This year sees performances from NYC blues band The Rad Trads and singer-songwriter guitarist, Raúl Midón – a man who has collaborated with everybody from Herbie Hancock to Stevie Wonder. Throw in a liberal smattering of food trucks, stalls and an arts and crafts village, and you’ve got a long weekend worth shouting about.
dubaijazzfest.com iMAGE: GE tty
| 12 | | 13 |
OS72_012-014 Experience.indd 13 1/23/17 1:32 PM ExpE riE ncE
February 23 – March 11 Dubai FooD Festival Dubai, uaE
iF yOU’rE in DUBAi AT ThE EnD OF ThE MOnTh, ThEn cOME wiTh An EMpTy STOMAch, AnD BE rEADy TO cELEBrATE ThE ciTy’S rEpUTATiOn AS OnE OF ThE FASTEST GrOwinG FOOD ScEnES in ThE wOrLD
Your hunger, this month, comes courtesy most likely in a crate at Al Quoz; whether venues to offer a three-course set meal for of the Dubai Food Festival. But forget what you’re heading out after work to the Street just Dhs199 per person. Take your pick from you think you know; 2017 is set to blow all Nights food trucks, eating your way around celebrity chefs Gordon Ramsay, Atul Kochar, that’s gone before it out of the water. the continents at Eat The World DXB, or Heinz Beck, Jaime Pesaque, Jason Atherton When a food scene is expanding as simply out for a weekend wander along and Gary Rhodes. If you’re an Emirates rapidly as it is in this city, it stands to reason the Etisalat Beach Canteen, you can expect Skywards member, you can also redeem that an event celebrating it should spread 17 days of ever-expanding waistbands. your Miles for a meal for two at any of the to every nook and cranny. So rather Thankfully, your participation won’t participating restaurants. than confine itself to a static seven days simply begin and end with consumption. “Expect a 17-day menu of incredible with food stands and tired ideas, Dubai Almost all of the events feature live dining experiences,” says Issam Kazim, CEO Food Festival brings celebrity chefs, food cooking stations, master-classes, tasting of Dubai Tourism. “Dubai Food Festival is a bloggers, vloggers and, of course, some sessions, live music and more. fantastic opportunity to celebrate the city’s fantastic food to wherever you might be. You’ll also have a chance to dine at some rich melting pot of cuisine and put Dubai Whether it’s romantic desert dining of the city’s top restaurants for less. Miele firmly on the global gastronomy map for (perfect if you forgot Valentine’s Day Dubai Restaurant Week – February 23 to the world to see.”
earlier in the month) or something urban, March 4 – has enlisted 15 of the city’s top dubaifoodfestival.com iMAGE: DUBA i FOOD FEST VAL
Learn more about the food scene in Dubai in the Dubai restaurants podcast on channel 1505 and the TV show Eating Out in Dubai on channel 1279.
| 14 |
OS72_012-014 Experience.indd 14 1/23/17 1:32 PM The L.U.C Collection Each part is a masterpiece
The L.U.C Quattro is equipped with four independent barrels stacked in pairs and totalling a full 1.8 metres of spring. This patented mechanism ensures an exceptional nine-day power reserve and above all, amazing precision. Like every component in the L.U.C Calibre 98.01-L, each barrel is hand-decorated and finished by the artisans at Chopard Manufacture. The L.U.C Quattro houses a movement that is chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) and bears the prestigious “Poinçon de Genève” quality hallmark.
L.U.C QUATTRO Lunch with
| 16 | | 17 |
OS72_016-019 Lunch With.indd 16 1/23/17 11:38 AM Lunch with
James Gay-Rees We meet the British film producer behindSenna , Amy and Supersonic for tapas at Soho’s Ember Yard
WORDS: Kaye MaRtinDale iMaGeS: GeOff BROKate
ames Gay-Rees has a job that’s easy to envy. The British chance of dying… I don’t care what anybody says, she was exploited film producer has been making documentaries for the past by the media for commercial reasons. She wasn’t just having a bad J six years that focus on iconic and often misunderstood day. She wasn’t putting on an act. It was totally brutal.” characters; and he has a subject list that reads like a who’s who of Amy’s hard to watch and was a painful movie to make. Gay-Rees modern-day popular culture. pauses, momentarily contemplating the doubts and difficulties that From 2010’s Bafta-winning Senna, to last year’s highly acclaimed he and his colleagues went through making the film. In the process Oasis documentary, Supersonic, by way of the Oscar and Bafta- of their research the team interviewed more than 100 of Amy’s winning Amy, Gay-Rees has a way of elevating his subjects out of friends, family members and management, the majority of whom their field and into wider consciousness. were still processing their role in her journey and death. He wanders into the packed Ember Yard in Soho with a lo-fi Most of those close to Amy felt that the film had captured her style and carrying a backpack. It offers a glimpse of the indie kid essence, yet the most notable opponent of the documentary has about him and is a little incongruous with his current status in the been her father, Mitch Winehouse, who describes the film as a movie business. “one-dimensional, miserable and misleading portrayal of Amy”. The Gay-Rees is hard to pin down. He’s currently working on a film paints Mitch in a bad light and points to the fact that there were project that involves Argentine superstar Diego Maradona, but for a select few around the singer who were doing very well out of once he’s not working. He’s moving swiftly into holiday mode as her success and who, perhaps, dropped the ball in regard to getting his two teenage daughters are on a break from school. her the help that she needed. Despite the backlash, Gay-Rees No sooner has he sat down, he plunges head-first into a diplomatically avoids getting drawn further into the row. “I think in Kerouac-esque stream of consciousness, jumping from the joy at many ways he [Mitch] did what he thought was best for her; she winning awards for Amy to his previous two wins for Senna, the was very difficult to manage. I’m not an expert but I believe they say documentary about the legendary Formula One driver. that you can’t help someone who doesn’t want to be helped.” Considering he only arrived from the US yesterday, he’s Unfazed by the negative feedback, Gay-Rees speaks with the remarkably chipper, giving the distinct impression of a man who’s unflinching confidence of someone free of self-doubt or guilt. “At very happy with the way his life is going. the end of the day, any criticism we get doesn’t really bother me Despite the usually low-key nature of the documentary genre, ‘cause I know for the large part we’ve opened people’s eyes to Amy was a huge success, both at the box office and with critics. The her again. Here and in the US she’d become, for the most part, a film chooses to focus on the rare talent of the artist, as opposed joke and now people are like, “You know what. That joke wasn’t to the troubled icon depicted and hounded by the media. As you funny and she was amazing.” The film has re-energised her legacy watch, it’s kind of hard not to fall in love with her. in the right way, and if certain individuals want to criticise the It’s clear that Gay-Rees felt that, too, as his easy flowing patter movie then they aren’t seeing the big picture; because that girl’s gives way to a sadness-tinged rail against the media. Understandably, seen in a different way now.” having two teenage daughters made As our food arrives we discuss Amy’s story even more poignant for the difficulties of negotiating egos him, and he remains visibly affected by I don’t cArE WhAt and expectations when making a her story. AnYBodY SAYS, documentary. I ask if it’s easier to make “On a wider level we all made her a film about someone who’s dead or life intolerable because of the media AmY WAS ExploItEd someone still with us. Without missing feeding frenzy. That’s why I spoke out at BY thE mEdIA for a beat he tells me there are pros and the Baftas. It’s pretty obvious to anybody cons to both as he throws me a cheeky that the girl was in real trouble. We commErcIAl rEASonS. look and says, “We must be mad, we’re probably all said, ‘Oh my God! What a ShE WASn’t juSt currently dealing with the Gallagher train wreak,’ but to go out of your way brothers and Diego Maradona: all very to sell more papers or to gain more hAvIng A BAd dAY. It well-known and famously challenging viewers knowing that girl had a strong WAS totAllY BrutAl people.”
| 16 | | 17 |
OS72_016-019 Lunch With.indd 17 1/23/17 11:38 AM Lunch with
With the subject of ego firmly on the table, it’s only a matter of time before the subject of Ronaldo comes up – Gay-Rees worked with the Portuguese superstar on the eponymously titled film in 2015. It’s one of his documentaries that hasn’t managed to make the leap from its core audience of football fans to reach a wider public, but Gay-Rees is a firm believer in the subject matter. “I respect Cristiano because he’s a really nice guy in reality, and the level of sacrifice and amount of pressure he wears from his family, himself, his friends, his team and his country is almost unbearable. To have the exterior toughness and inner strength to take everything that the world throws at him and go out there and deliver unbelievable statistics for 10 seasons in a row is amazing.” A series of tasty tapas plates have now arrived, and I realise that I’m racing through the food as quickly as Gay-Rees gets through anecdotes. Worried, I check that he remembers that we’re sharing, as I note that I seem to have almost eaten my half of everything while, he, burdened with the task of answering my questions, is taking a considerably time longer. Ember Yard seems to be the kind of place where people like to linger over lunch, however, and I sense no hurry as he insists that adding food to the mix is the perfect way to get him to keep talking. The unpretentious and down to earth Gay-Rees seems to be the antithesis of Hollywood frippery. The only clue to his level of work is an amazing capacity to speak at extremely high speeds while giving common sense answers and maintaining an impressive level of eloquence. Despite a decidedly English manner and liberal use of an expletive or two, his language is passionate about and interested in, the most enigmatic of whom tinged by his time in the US. He has a tendency to finish his was Ayrton Senna. sentences with an Americanism or two, and is especially fond of A teenage Gay-Rees first became fascinated by Senna through an inflected ‘you know?’. his father, who worked as accounts director for John Player, sponsors of the Lotus car that Senna was driving in the early 1980s. His usually levelheaded father told stories of a Senna iS the claSSic icaruS mystical character who seemed to operate outside the usual figure, the one who flieS laws of physics. Ten years after Senna’s death, Gay-Rees read an article too cloSe to the Sun. he’S commemorating the driver that echoed many of his father’s Such a romantic hero words and decided to contact the family with a view to making a film about the iconic hero. “They’d turned down a lot of ‘cauSe it waSn’t about the really big Hollywood directors as they were worried about the money… he waS reaching Hollywoodisation of his story, so the key to unlocking them was to say we’ll do a documentary.” Not having set out to make for the StarS non-fiction, the fledgling production company found themselves on the path that would establish their brand as makers of serious, In 2010 Gay-Rees set up On The Corner, a London-based high-quality documentaries. independent production company, along with Asif Kapadia, the The 2011 film, Senna was a huge success at a time when director of Amy and Senna. After a seven-year stint as a “dogsbody” documentaries weren’t big currency at the box office. Even more in New York and Los Angeles, he searched “desperately for a surprising was that a film about a sport with little appeal beyond writer, an idea” something that he could produce on his own. He its fanbase could break box office records. The filmmakers had eventually found the project: Exit Through The Gift Shop – a film managed to tap into universal themes that chimed with viewers directed by street artist Banksy – and moved back to London. The well beyond the world of Formula One. freedom of having his own production company put him in the When I reveal my own lack of interest in F1, but how I was enviable position of being able to make films about people he’s enraptured by Senna, he laughs, explaining how, “Women love
emirates serves london nine times daily, with six daily services to london heathrow and three flights a day to london gatwick.
| 18 | | 19 |
OS72_016-019 Lunch With.indd 18 1/23/17 11:38 AM Lunch with
that movie. If I had a pound for every mum who’d come up to me at the school gates and said, ‘My husband made me watch that movie and now I’ve seen it five times.’ Senna is the classic Icarus figure, the one who flies too close to the sun. He’s such a romantic hero ‘cause it’s not about the money for him… he was reaching for the stars.” Gay-Rees’ most recent work, Supersonic – a documentary charting British rockers Oasis and their sharp (and notorious) rise to fame in the mid-’90s – has a romantic side to it, too, albeit in The Bill the guise of two lunatics from Burnage, Manchester. Noel and Liam 1 x Hot smoked butternut squash with ricotta, Gallagher allegedly still can’t be in the same room together, but lemon and grape jam (US$9.42) both contacted Gay-Rees to document their story, as well as to wonder where all the rock and roll heroes have gone. Supersonic is 1 x Organic leaf salad with chargrilled comice a call to arms as much as it is a retrospective. It’s a plea for some pears and walnuts (US$7.90) much-needed personality in the music business. The film opened late last year, and enjoyed instant success. 2 x Courgette flower stuffed with monte enebro Gay-Rees is still chasing his own dream, and his stock in goat’s cheese and drizzled with honey Hollywood is now considerably higher – an Oscar, Bafta and big (US$5.77) box office will do that for a person. “I can have the meetings now that I couldn’t have as a younger man,” he says. But he’s clearly not 1 x Smoked and slow-cooked beef brisket with satisfied. “Not all the time,” he adds hastily, “but I’m operating from pickled shallots and salsa verde (US$12.77) a slight position of strength now rather than being a nobody.” However, it’s still hard to imagine the affable man in front of 1 x Smoked crab croquettes with brown crab me operating in the cutthroat world of movie production, and aioli and lemon (US$9.10) he admits a love/hate relationship with Hollywood. “As I’ve got a bit older, more experienced and less judgemental, I’ve figured out 2 x Blanc de Morgex, Rayon (US$11.55) how it all works. It’s not perfect but if you treat it with respect, it treats you with respect back. That said, as soon as you lose your sense of humour in Hollywood... you’re done.” Total: US$81.75
| 18 | | 19 |
OS72_016-019 Lunch With.indd 19 1/23/17 5:03 PM Stay: Room
Loisaba Laikipia, k enya
Words: sTACEY sIEBrITZ ImAgEs: ElEWAnA HoTEls
For the traveller who’d like to tick While the main camp boasts beautiful occasional stirrings of the hippo family in ‘African safari’ off their bucket list, but rooms and a stunning hillside infinity pool, the waterhole below. wants a more exclusive experience than the nearby Loisaba Star Beds are the Once you venture outside your room, your average game drive, the Loisaba real showstoppers. Each open-air room you’ll find that daytime activities make the Conservancy is a must. has a huge, handcrafted bed raised up most of the area, from twice daily game Located in Laikipia, the nature reserve on wheels. When night falls, your bed drives with highly trained local guides to is home to a luxury resort set in 56,000 is rolled out onto your private balcony horseback rides through the valley and acres of wilderness, populated by 50 species overlooking the Kenyan wilderness. That visits to the local villages to learn about of animals – including four of the Big Five: means you can sleep under the stars with Kenya’s indigenous tribes. elephants, leopards, water buffalo and lions. nothing to disturb you, aside from the loisaba.com
Emirates serves Nairobi twice daily with the Boeing 777-300ER. A third daily will be added from June 1.
| 20 |
OS72_020-024 Stay.indd 20 1/23/17 3:04 PM GIA.pdf 1 9/20/16 11:16 AM
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K Stay: ClaSSi C
Rome CavalieRi Rome, Italy
Words: laura coughlin images: rome cavalieri
Walking through the palatial Rome furniture, exquisite sculptures and with a panorama of The Eternal Cavalieri, perched on the leafy hill of other artefacts. Guests can tune into City in all its glory. Monte Mario, is like walking through the hotel’s iPod guide and take a leisurely Deep pockets? Pick the presidential one of the world’s best art galleries. tour through the collection. suite, detailed with Swarovski, Karl Just 15 minutes from Vatican Each of the 345 rooms and 25 suites Lagerfeld and Andy Warhol, a huge City, the 53-year-old property is more are kingly and beautifully styled with navy terrace and Jacuzzi, and private access than a luxury hotel; it’s home to a and gold-stitched carpets, fresh flowers to La Pergola, Heinz Beck’s three museum-worthy assortment of masters’ and marble bathrooms. Opt for an Michelin-starred restaurant. paintings, rare tapestries, French period Imperial Rome view room and wake up romecavalieri.com
Emirates flies twice daily to Rome. A third daily will commence on March 26, with a single daily A380 and double daily Boeing 777-300ER serving the route.
| 22 |
OS72_020-024 Stay.indd 22 1/23/17 3:04 PM LIFE is SHORT
YOU SHOULD BE PLAYING THE WORLD’S FINEST GOLF EQUIPMENT!
PLAYED ON LPGA TOUR® BY: Lydia Ko Cristie Kerr Christina Kim Brittany Lang Alison Lee Ryann O’Toole Sadena Parks Gerina Piller Beatriz Recari
PLAYED ON PGA TOUR® BY: James Hahn Billy Horschel Charles Howell III Zach Johnson Chris Kirk Ryan Moore Charl Schwartzel
PXG clubs look sexier, launch higher, go farther, feel softer, are unbelievably forgiving and have a sweet spot the size of Texas. Nobody makes golf clubs the way we do. Period.TM
PXG.COM/OS
PXG_39044_Life_is_Short_OpenSkies_Feb_FP.indd 1 1/12/17 9:11 AM Stay:contemporary
Four SeaSonS Hotel, DIFC Dubai, uaE
Words: andreW nagy Images: erIc LaIgneL
It’s not just the prime location that marks New York artist Bram Tihany – offer a fluid This is a boutique hotel, so there aren’t out the Four Seasons Hotel DIFC as one and consistent feel. The lobby is spectacular, a huge amount of dining options, but what that should be on your list of must-visits. all gold, bronze, and black marble. they have they do well – whether it’s the While a base at the heart of the city will Once you make it to your room, you’ll retro cool of 1950s diner, Firebird, or the undoubtedly make you book, it’s Adam D discover a little more minimalism, but it’s Luna Sky Bar that’s perfect for a pre-meal Tihany’s design concept that will make you a less aggressive push than you might find cocktail. Failing that, just head to the rooftop return. There’s an Art Deco feel to much of elsewhere. Here it’s all curved edges and pool terrace, grab a cabana, and take it easy. the space, as murals and other pieces – by warm colours. It’s comfortable and cool. fourseasons.com
A convenient way to visit Dubai’s top attractions is with City Sightseeing’s hop-on hop-off bus. Learn more at citysightseeing-dubai.com
| 24 |
OS72_020-024 Stay.indd 24 1/23/17 7:24 PM
Food Da’ Vinattieri
| 26 | | 27 |
OS72_026-028 Food.indd 26 1/23/17 11:41 AM food
A hole in the wall it might be, but this Florentine favourite serves not just a sandwich, but the Italian way of life WORDS ANDREW NAGY IMAGES: FRANCESCO SPIGHI
ocated down a small alley in central Florence, Da’ Vinattieri is easy to L miss. But then the best places often are. Walk the same route around lunchtime and you’ll instantly recognise it by its queue of locals, snaking out from the small window, along the pathway and out into Piazza del Duomo. Lampredotto is the speciality here. You probably won’t like the sound of it, but you’ll certainly like the taste. Put simply, this is the Florentine version of tripe (cow’s stomach lining). While regular tripe is a mixture of the full lining, lampredotto is solely made up of the cow’s final stomach. Although in recent years it’s acquired a sense of cool, this was originally peasant food, and although you’ll now find it on more than a few restaurant menus in Florence, the best way to eat it is at street level. And few do it better in Florence than at Da’ Vinattieri.
| 26 | | 27 |
OS72_026-028 Food.indd 27 1/23/17 11:41 AM Food
If made poorly, lampredotto can be a little chewy. Here, they cook it slowly – with tomato, onion, parsley and celery – until the texture approaches something like roast beef. After that, they take a crunchy white bread roll, dip it in the broth, add a spicy sauce and pile it high. To live truly like a local, get a small glass of wine, take your sandwich and simply sit on the curb to eat. It’ll cost you around US$8 in total for the pleasure. If you’re still hungry, we heartily recommend the cocoli – small balls of fried bread stuffed with prosciutto and eaten with soft cheese. The great thing is that you don’t have to travel far to enjoy all this. Da’ Vinattieri is so centrally placed that, once you’ve eaten, you’re set for all the city’s best attractions. Santa Margherita dei Cerchi (where Dante met his muse Beatrice) is just next door, while the city’s famous Duomo is only a five-minute walk away. Walking is good after a lampredotto sandwich. We figure five hours around the city should be enough to burn off the calories, so best take some comfortable shoes.
Emirates serves four destinations in Italy – Rome, Milan, Venice and Bologna.
| 28 |
OS72_026-028 Food.indd 28 1/23/17 6:59 PM
Neighbourhood el raval barcelona, spain
| 30 | | 31 |
OS72_030-036 Neighbourhood.indd 30 1/23/17 1:37 PM Neighbourhood
Words: Kaye Martindale iMages: geoff BroKate
l Raval lies in the heart of Barcelona and forms part of the labyrinth that is known as Ciutat Vella (Old Town). It’s an area bursting at the seams with artists, creative professionals and the city’s more salubrious characters – making up a rich and alluring tapestry for any visitor. Formed in the 14th Century, Raval was created as an extension of the city. The industrial revolution brought factories to the area and with them high-rise tenement buildings, squalor, Evice and high mortality rates. During this time it was one of the most densely populated areas in Europe and the strictly working class neighbourhood was known for its criminal underbelly. In the 1980s, as the city geared up for the Olympics, the government began to clean up the area, making it ready for the eyes of the world. Now, Raval is known for its nightlife, with bars, cafes and restaurants at every turn. While some of Barcelona’s barrios can feel a bit like tourist ghettos, Raval has managed to maintain its authentic flavour. Part of its charm is the wide spectrum of life that call it home. Traditional Catalan family-owned businesses with dark dusty interiors hold their own against colourful bohemian boutiques and brand new hipster cafes. As dramatic shafts of sunlight illuminate its cobblestone alleyways and lively street life, you quickly discover that Raval is a wonderful place to wander. Here are some of its highlights.
| 30 | | 31 |
OS72_030-036 Neighbourhood.indd 31 1/23/17 1:37 PM Neighbourhood
In ThE AREA (Six-minute walk) EAT + ART Tallers 76
It’s impossible to pass this intriguing cafe without being drawn inside. The decor is exotic and homely, which, as the owner Masud Naderi explains, “is the perfect reflection of the neighbourhood itself”. A musician from Iran, Masud has travelled the world and tells the story of his life through the knickknacks he’s amassed on his journey. It was a labour of love for him to find the right objects to fit his vision and to create a harmony between these maCBa disparate elements where anyone, from anywhere, could feel at home. This museum offers a regular The cafe has a fantastic collection of teas and offers a daily selection of sweet selection of changing exhibitions, delicacies and cakes, as well as a full menu of Spanish and Mediterranean-inspired and was central in the reinvention of Raval from a no-go area to dishes. Open all day and until the early hours of the morning, this makes for a hipster hub. great place for an intimate drink. Plaça dels Àngels, 1, 08001 BaRcelona, Carrer dels Tallers, 76, 08001 Barcelona | +34 93 667 49 00 | tallers-76.com +34 93 481 33 68, macBa.caT/en/
Emirates flies twice daily to Barcelona. Until February 6, this route will be served exclusively by a Boeing 777-300ER. From February 7, it will include a daily A380 service.
| 32 |
OS72_030-036 Neighbourhood.indd 32 1/23/17 2:21 PM Feathers Final.pdf 1 1/23/17 10:46 AM
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K Neighbourhood
IN the AReA DRINK + thINK (Two-minuTe walk) London Bar
The now-legendary London Bar opened in 1910 and was, in its heyday, frequented by stellar characters such as Hemmingway, Dali and Picasso. Although its belle epoch has passed, it’s well worth a visit to soak up the decades of history that are revealed in its faded grandeur and beautiful Art Nouveau decor. The walls are adorned with newspaper clippings and photos that tell of the pub’s illustrious past, and a trapeze swing above the bar tantalises clientele with a vision of how much of a spectacle the London Bar must have been. Long since synonymous with live music in the city, over the years this bar has Palau Guell Palau Guell is one of Catalan architect hosted some of Spain’s biggest and best. Although it no longer has the huge Antoni Gaudi’s greatest masterpieces. stage, it still welcomes bands every night to play to a varied crowd of locals, Located just off the city’s main expats and visitors. thoroughfare, it’s a must for any itinerary. Carrer Nou de la Rambla | 34, 08001 Barcelona | +34 933 18 52 61 CArrer Nou de LA rAmbLA, 3-5, 08001 bArCeLoNA , +34 934 725 771, PALAuGueLL.CAt/eN
Emirates flies twice daily to Los Angeles, with both flights operated by the A380.
| 34 |
OS72_030-036 Neighbourhood.indd 34 1/23/17 1:38 PM
Neighbourhood
SHOP + SIT In THe AreA Camino (Five-minute walk)
Located on Carrer d’Elisabets, one of Raval’s liveliest streets, is Camino, a sweet and stylish shoe store that’s proud to promote locally made footwear and accessories. The natural tones and materials used to furnish the shop reflect Camino’s focus on craftsmanship along with traditional materials and methods. As well as selling a tempting array of fashionable, yet durable shoes, Camino offers a selection of bags and clothes. The great thing is that everything you see in store was made in Spain – the majority of it in Barcelona. Their ethical and philosophical ethos is to support craftspeople with an authentic story and unique vision. In Spanish camino means ‘way’ and the founder, Chad Weidmer, formed Flax and kale New to Barcelona’s food scene, Flax And Camino with the aim of creating a meeting point for all those people looking Kale is a mostly vegetarian place that’s for something different; a different way to create, a different way to sell, and a flourishing – with a constant stream of different way to buy. diners giving it a vibrant atmosphere. Carrer Elisabets, 13 | Barcelona 08003 | +34 93 177 15 97 | thecaminostore.com CArrer dels TAllers, 74, 08001 BArCeloNA, +34 933 17 56 64
| 36 |
OS72_030-036 Neighbourhood.indd 36 1/23/17 1:38 PM
A collection of stories from around the world
Rewilding In Denmark 46
Riffing In Manila The Survivor 40 54 MAIN
OS72_039 Main.indd 39 1/23/17 7:05 PM OS72_040-044 Manila.indd40 Why getting the blues inthe Philippines isno bad thing sprawling capital of the Riffing WORDS: SeanWilliams IMAGES: PAOLOMALLARI in Manila 1/23/17 7:09 PM OS72_040-044 Manila.indd 41 1/23/17 7:09 PM riffing in manila
Sky Room was a perfect example of Art Deco styling in Manila
anila is not an easy place to Manila also holds a wide array of Manila has plenty for foodies, too. explore. On a recent trip I exciting and hidden spots, if you’re Street food enthusiasts in particular can was told that the huge capital willing to look for them. From Rizal enjoy national dishes such as adobo of the Philippines – part of a Park, peppered with historic landmarks chicken or balut – small, aborted ducks’ M sprawling metropolitan area from the Philippines’ tumultuous history, eggs that locals often snack on alongside home to some 24 million people – is only to theatres, museums and galleries. a drink or two. New rooftop bars, for “advanced travellers”. They’re at least Further afield you’ll find Taal Volcano, a like that above the trendy Z Hostel in partly right. For most tourists Manila is a breathtaking natural beauty on the south Makati, cater to a growing local set that point-of-entry from which they advance side of Luzon Island. enjoys partying long into the night. to the staggering Filipino countryside: its Architecturally speaking the city is If you’d rather miss the street food, volcanos, beaches and pulsating wildlife. staggering, and Intramuros, the historic there are plenty of upscale eating But no large city is worth avoiding heart of Manila, is a walled masterpiece options, so perhaps try Blackbird, an altogether. Manila may be short on of Spanish colonial style, with battlements, aviation-themed restaurant in upcoming tourist-friendly sights, claustrophobic and churches and government buildings Salcedo Village, Makati. Meanwhile, gridlocked – with often dystopian levels that are pleasant for an afternoon stroll. Quezon City’s Van Gogh Is Bipolar of traffic – but it’s also a beautifully mad, Unfortunately, Japanese invaders destroyed (yes, really) is a frankly bizarre dining breathless place that’s chock-full of life in most of the city during the Second World experience designed to make you either all its craziest forms. War, but its restoration has been tasteful. calm, happy, or a combination of the two.
Emirates flies 18 times weekly to Manila, with the Boeing 777-300ER. There’s also a daily circular service from Dubai to Cebu and Clark.
| 42 | | 43 |
OS72_040-044 Manila.indd 42 1/23/17 7:10 PM riffing in manila
Taxi journeys between all of these spots can take upwards of an hour, but few will cost more than US$4. Many of Metro Manila’s hottest places are clustered around Makati which, despite having a reputation on the wrong side of seedy, has begun to serve up some great food and nightspots. Hooch, The Curator and Bank Bar are geared towards the city’s more monied travellers, while restaurants such as Salt and Bucky’s Poblacion have pounced on the global hipster phenomenon, offering craft ale and US-inspired snacks at reasonable prices. In the evening, streets dance with frenetic, technicolor bars and clubs. Inside them, a chance to sample a national music movement that’s rapidly coming under threat. The bar@1951; Filipino, or ‘Pinoy’, blues bands take Manila street food their lines from the American South. The country’s recent past has included colonial rule by Spain, whose influence is seen everywhere from the brightly-coloured inner-city housing blocks to the national language of Tagalog, which is flecked with Spanish words and phrases. In 1898 Spain went to war with the US over the island nation. Its loss handed power of the Philippines to Washington, which held control until 1946. It was during this time that the country became a mirror for cultural phenomena in the States. That included its music. “Every musical development from the profound to the most superficial that originated in the United States was soon reflected in the Philippines,” wrote Paul A Rodell in his book Culture And Customs Of Filipinised versions of European mirror their American counterparts for The Philippines. “The music of dance bands, music forms had all but vanished,” decades. Yet if you listen closely, you’ll ragtime, blues, jazz, swing, boogie woogie, and, added Rodell, “as young musicians discover that Pinoy blues has its own in the post-World War II period, rock and seemed more interested in learning sound. There are elements of funk, reggae, roll, folk, alternative and rap were all mastered new jazz tunes from Chicago than ska and even traditional Filipino music by Filipino composers and musicians.” traditional classics.” thrown in. That makes it faster, and a little In the early days of the Filipino craze Despite independence, the country dancier, than its counterpart stateside. for all things American, nightclubs and struggled to find its own cultural At night it’s not uncommon to hear cabarets popped up all over Manila. identity, and Filipino acts continued to crowds of locals singing karaoke, which Shows like bodabil, a local approximation of vaudeville, introduced locals to western entertainment. They went hand-in-hand In the early days of the Filipino craze with music and dance. “By the 1920s, the sarsuela (a type of for all things American, nightclubs and all-singing, all-dancing stage show) and travelling theatrical companies with their cabarets popped up all over Manila
| 42 | | 43 |
OS72_040-044 Manila.indd 43 1/23/17 7:10 PM riffing in manila
The Roadhouse Manila Bay and 70’s Bistro
has become a national pastime on a par with billiards and basketball. Around the culture a host of entertaining venues have sprung, which are spread out across Manila’s fearsome sprawl. “Currently the whole world knows that a lot of Filipinos get noticed because of their singing,” explains Mike Mananzala, general manager of The Roadhouse Manila Bay. “They win contests all over the world. It’s part of our culture. If you’re musically inclined you should definitely come to Manila.” The Philippine Blues Society is a non-profit organisation dedicated to promoting the genre. Its director Allan Magturo has sent newcomers as far afield as Memphis for exposure. But Manila has just as beating a musical heart. because of the rise of Korean pop and It wasn’t until the 1980s, under the leadership of dictator Ferdinand Marcos, other foreign music, it's sad to say, that Filipino bands began to rally against Americanisation. The Apo Hiking Society, but Pinoy music is going one of the most successful Pinoy bands of that decade, had their biggest hit with draw from art deco movements in the US ‘Binky’ Lampano, who now resides in American Junk, a polemic against US (searching for them provides a fascinating Los Angeles, have kept the movement neocolonialism. Other bands, like Asin (‘Salt treasure hunt across town). buzzing, but mainstays of the scene of the Earth’), scored chart entries with Manansala is worried: Pinoy acts have such as Manansala feel that the writing songs that celebrated the Philippines’ rich fallen down the pecking order in the past could be on the wall. Not that he’s line of local, indigenous music. few years, as imports from Korea, China throwing in the towel just yet. “Blues is But on a visit to Manila, it’s easy to think and other Asian nations have captured still Manila’s main music,” he adds, with that almost nobody bought into the song’s the hearts of the local youth. “Pinoy music an air of defiance. politics. Central districts like Malate and in general, not just blues, is slowly dying He’s right, too, as any evening out in Ermita bedazzle with neon lights redolent in Manila,” he says. “Perhaps because of this amazing city will attest to. of mid-century Miami. Food and drink the insurgence of Korean pop and other Music should be counted firmly among outlets are (all-too) often attempts to foreign music, it’s sad to say but slowly Manila’s many unsung draws, making mimic their counterparts stateside. Many of Pinoy music is going.” it an amazing way to experience one the city’s most iconic buildings, such as the Local heroes like the Juan de la Cruz of the world’s most unusual, and truly grand, ozymandian Metropolitan Theater, Band, who first formed in 1968, and Ray mind-bending metropolises.
| 44 |
OS72_040-044 Manila.indd 44 1/23/17 7:10 PM
OS72_046-052 Rewilding.indd 46 1/23/17 5:19 PM BORN TO REWILD Bison, elks and even elephants could soon be a familiar sight on the Danish landscape, thanks to two pioneering conservation projects in the Jutland Peninsula that are looking to the past to safeguard the future
Words and images: Sarah Freeman Additional image: Brian Rasmussen - Randers Regnskov
OS72_046-052 Rewilding.indd 47 1/23/17 5:19 PM rewilding denmark
ixteen bison nonchalantly graze in a scene European bison (quite different from their American reminiscent of Africa’s wild savannah. But this cousins) once roved the European landscape. They would isn’t in Africa. We’re not even close. We’re 12,000 run all the way south from France, into Russia and down to kilometres away, in the deceptively bucolic region the Caucasus, before being hunted to extinction across the ofS central Denmark, which is putting itself on the global continent in 1927. conservation map with the help of some hairy, hulking beasts. Surprisingly, wild bison are scarcer than Africa’s black rhinos, This motley crew – a bison herd of four bulls, seven cows so how exactly will Europe’s largest land mammal ‘rewild’ the and five calves, sourced from Polish parks and Danish zoos, 119-hectare Vorup Enge water meadow, which lies just 500 are part of a pioneering rewilding project, run by Randers metres from the city of Randers? “First of all the bison will Zoo, which is working to revive the lost ecosystems that keep the landscape’s light open by foraging on both grasses flourished here thousands of years ago. Ironic really, that and trees,” Bach explains. “Additionally they will spread seeds, turning back the clock is the cornerstone of rewilding, as make soil disturbance and other natural dynamics. The idea is it’s a conservation practice so future-orientated that it’s not to interfere. We want them to roam freely and let nature, turned heads in environmental and scientific communities literally, take its course.” Save for providing them with some around the world. hay during winter, this hands-off approach, a mainstay Fundamental to restoring these habitats to their natural, of rewilding, seems to be working. former states is the reintroduction of native large herbivores Bison aren’t the only ecological engineers reshaping lands like bison and elk that have been absent for millennia. “We blighted by human activity. In Mauritius, Aldabra giant tortoises aren’t just plonking anything down here” asserts Ole Sommer have helped disperse ebony tree seeds, Yakutian horses are Bach, curator of Randers Zoo. “The key is using indigenous doing the job woolly mammoths once did in Siberia and species that have more connection with this land than the likes wolves in Yellowstone have transformed not only the national of grazing cattle.” park’s ecosystem, but its entire geography – making it one
| 48 | | 49 |
OS72_046-052 Rewilding.indd 48 1/23/17 5:20 PM rewilding denmark
Ole Sommer Bach, curator at Randers Zoo; relocated bison in Denmark
of the most successful global rewilding projects to date. The regrettably, it’s not something we should be proud of. Taking over Netherlands is also doing its bit by experimenting with species the current Holocene, it’s defined as a new age of highly altered of red deer, Konik ponies and Heck cattle to recreate an ancient ecosystems, caused by human intervention such as climate grassland ecosystem called Oostvaardersplassen. The trailblazing change, a mushrooming population and polluted oceans. efforts of conservation initiative Rewilding Europe, whose So basically, the bison could end up saving us, I broach. “In a way, mission is to rewild a staggering one million hectares over the yes,” chips in Bach. “But it’s not quite as simple as that. The bison next decade, is helping to put the continent at the forefront of a are a form of Holocene rewilding, which uses species from around rewilding revolution. 10,000 years ago, but we need to think bigger than that.” Cue the Back on Danish turf, the government is upholding its eco- sound of trumpeting elephants. Bach’s master rewilding plan involves credentials by investing a cool US$23.8m to purchase farmland turning the clock back to the close of the last Ice Age, by introducing re-appropriated as nature areas – good news for rewilding. Yet Asian elephants into the wild. At first it may sound bizarre, but the despite their green motives, these large-scale and ambitious projects science is reassuringly bona fide. Africa and Asia may be famous for have courted some controversy amongst farmers and landowners, their megafauna, but elephants also roamed Europe (and North concerned for their livestock and the wider impact on the rural America) for millions of years, before disappearing around 12,000 economy. Bach argues that you really have to look at the bigger years ago. Fossil records indicate they once lived in the Middle East picture. “Rewilding is an investment for our future generations. and northern China as well. These creatures , along with mastodons We are the first generations of humans to know the negative and mammoths, had the biggest influence on their environment consequences of biodiversity loss. That leaves us with responsibility and their mass extinction led to a colossal loss of biodiversity. for coming generations – a global responsibility.” In the wake of The bottom line – animals such as elephants allows more species recent findings that reveal our planet is facing a sixth mass extinction to flourish, and are key to recapturing some of the evolutionary event, in which 90 per cent of animals could be lost, Bach’s words potential that was lost in the late Pleistocene. couldn’t be more poignant. The idea of bringing back animals from the Ice Age is, But there is also the ethical debate. Surely there is an element understandably, not without opposition. “The biggest challenge of playing God when it comes to reintroducing species that facing the introduction of wild elephants here is to convince have been extinct for thousands, if not millions of years? Jens- Christian Svenning, professor at the Department Of Bioscience, The idea is not to Aarhus University, makes the point. “Not any more than many other human activities. We now live in the Anthropocene epoch interfere. We want them where humans are affecting the whole earth system. Rewilding along with other conservation and restoration approaches are to roam freely and let attempts to steer us towards a positive path for the biosphere nature, literally, take and hence also for humans.” The Anthropocene era Svenning refers to is the first geological epoch to be defined by humans – its course
| 48 | | 49 |
OS72_046-052 Rewilding.indd 49 1/23/17 5:20 PM rewilding denmark
The biggest challenge facing the reintroduction of wild elephants to Europe is to convince people that such a rewilding experiment is not a ticking Jurassic Park bomb
Randers Zoo, home of the rewilding project in Denmark
people that such a rewilding experiment is not a ticking Jurassic rhinos from South Africa (where one rhino is killed every six Park bomb,” admits Bach. So it’s perhaps a PR problem rather hours) as a radical measure to protect the species. than a logistical one. “We also have to find proper facilities to Close to the city of Aalborg, 60km north of Randers, is support the animals during wintry conditions and construct Northern Europe’s largest wild bog: Lille Vildmose. Five elks fencing that will not spoil the landscape,” Bach says. He goes imported from Sweden have been expatriated to help rewild an on to explain that they would follow the bison model by area of degraded land. A bog may not be as exotic or as beautiful starting small with just a few elephants and release them into as a rainforest, but in reality, peat wetlands alone store more semi-captivity across several hectares, before putting the full carbon than rainforests, and are more productive ecosystems rewilding plan into action. than coral reefs. This, now protected, area has been weakened by The two-pronged project would not only help rewild the land years of peat extraction, and its future rehabilitation lies in the by letting the elephants coppice trees and spread seeds through hands (or rather mouths) of five grass-guzzling giant deer, which their dung (a huge resource for beetles), but would also provide are making themselves at home after a 5,000-year hiatus. a refuge for the endangered species. Currently overrun with birch trees and thick aspen, the In the next 50 years, the entire population of Asian elephants vision for the area is to transform it into marshlands and lakes, is on track to be wiped out. It’s estimated that 55 elephants alongside natural forests, where the elks integrate with local red are killed illegally in Africa every day, and despairingly the only deer, wild boar and otters to become part of a self-sustaining place they are safe is in fenced wildlife parks – often too small ecosystem. “The elks are expert tree trimmers and good at to accommodate their populations. But rewilding could offer up moving in soft and wet ground,” remarks Hans Henrik Henriksen, a two-fold solution and perhaps the only way to protect these like a proud father. The city councillor and landscape planner species is away from those danger zones? An Australian rewilding is keen to assert their genetic advantage, explaining that their project thinks so. It plans to airlift a population of black and white height and appetite (an adult can consume three to four kilos
Emirates operates a daily A380 service to Copenhagen.
| 50 | | 51 |
OS72_046-052 Rewilding.indd 50 1/23/17 5:20 PM rewilding denmark
The biggest challenge facing the reintroduction of wild elephants to Europe is to convince people that such a rewilding experiment is not a ticking Jurassic Park Bomb
| 50 | | 51 |
OS72_046-052 Rewilding.indd 51 1/23/17 5:20 PM rewilding denmark
Rewilding is an investment for our future. We are the first generations of humans to know the negative consequences of biodiversity loss
Jens-Christian Svenning; elk tracking in Aalborg
of dry plant matter a day) enables them to make a significant creatures that continue to outsmart me. But he has a valid point bearing on the ecosystem, compared to more vertically – they don’t call this rewilding for nothing. Any interaction with challenged animals. And of course there is the economic humans, frankly, undermines the project. Despite the odds, curious incentive – elks are a cheaper and more natural alternative to tourists have descended on Lille Vildmose in their droves, hoping managing the landscape versus manmade tools and machinery. for a glimpse of an antler or two. Maybe they’ll have more luck Originally confined to a small paddock area in semi-captivity for come March, when the family is set to double with an additional seven months at the close of 2015, the two bulls and three heifer five elks joining the herd. calves are now free to roam in an area of 21 square kilometres – a After countless failed missions trudging through boggy ground vast terrain to track five elks, I discover. “The less we see of them in sub-zero temperatures – and thanks to Jen’s elk app, which the better. It’s not a zoo you know,” mocks Jens Vinge – a former uses geo-tracking technology developed at Aarhus University – hunter-turned forester (and now elk whisperer). Not words you we do manage to get within about 20 metres of two elks for a want to hear on a second visit to try and photograph the elusive fleeting couple of minutes. Fittingly, nature has the last word.
| 52 |
OS72_046-052 Rewilding.indd 52 1/23/17 5:20 PM Untitled-3.pdf 1 1/18/17 10:29 AM
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K ThE survivor
This is Ed sTafford. hE’s ThE firsT pErson To EvEr walk ThE EnTirE lEngTh of ThE amazon rivEr and hE wanTs you To havE an advEnTurE
Words: Jade Bremner
OS72_054-060 Ed Stafford.indd 54 1/23/17 5:18 PM OS72_054-060 Ed Stafford.indd 55 1/23/17 5:18 PM THE SURVIVOR
e’s been held up at gunpoint on his travels. Chased by look in their eyes that tells you they’ve been damaged in some a man wielding a machete, encountered killer bees, way,” says Stafford, who was adopted as a baby. “When a baby gets anacondas, piranhas and caimans. Oh, and he was falsely removed from its mother it creates trauma in the form of death, and arrested for murder in the jungle, too. “It takes a certain you basically build your character from that day forward. It creates H kind of person to commit to a project where you know a huge insecurity. I never knew what it was, when I started going on you are going to suffer,” says Cambridgeshire-born British explorer Ed adventures, but I realised I had certain character traits and began Stafford, the first person to walk the length of the Amazon River. delving into it all, it ended up being a fuel.” Unassisted, with only the help and generosity of strangers along the Although he’s adamant that anyone who has a desire to go on a way, it took Stafford two-and-a-half years (912 days) to walk 6,992km, big expedition can do it, Stafford believes that it’s often distressing through dense rainforest, drug trafficking zones and lands occupied by events that spur us on. “For some people it might be abuse, for indigenous tribes on the mighty river. others it might be their parents dying or getting divorced,” he With a shaved head and sturdy stature, Stafford spent four years explains. A little suffering, plus a curiosity about what is outside in the British Army before his epic trek – walking from the Amazon our modern world can lead us to achieve extraordinary things. “A River’s source in Peru to its mouth in Belém, Brazil, on the Atlantic lot of people’s lives involve waking up with artificial light, getting Ocean. Yet appearances can be deceptive. He’s softly spoken, has a in a car – driving in a box to go and sit in another box, to go calm demeanour and believes that it wasn’t ego that spurred him and look at another box. The amount of screen time we have is on, but trauma. “Almost every explorer I’ve met has got that slight absurd,” he explains. “To want a bit of adventure, to want to break
| 56 |
OS72_054-060 Ed Stafford.indd 56 1/23/17 5:18 PM THE SURVIVOR 6 Countries the Amazon and its tributaries run through (Ecuador, Venezuela, Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia and Peru) 6,992 Length of the Amazon River in kilometres 400 Indigenous Indian tribes living in the Amazon Rainforest 10 million
the Am A zon Rive R in numbe s Species in and around the Amazon River 60 Approximate number of piranha species living in the Amazon River 1,100 Tributaries of the Amazon River – 17 of them more than 1,500 kilometres long. 1.7 million Population of Manaus, the largest city along the Amazon River
out and reconnect with nature and learn real skills that keep you exclaims. “People had slightly run out of imagination when it alive is not surprising. I think it’s a natural reaction in the intangible came to expeditions. I’d decided to walk the length of a river existence that we have, where everything is laid out for us. Our and then Levison Wood decided to walk the length of the Nile, food comes in plastic wrappers and we can walk to the fridge and which highlighted the journey I’d done as well. Since then, guys get a cold glass of water. We’re so distanced from that reality of have also walked the Yangtze River, and it’s opened a world of what you would need to do in order to live in the wild; that’s what people and way of thinking – it doesn’t have to be a mountain makes survival really fascinating.” that’s not been climbed before, people can think outside the Stafford was awarded a Guinness World Record for his box and do different and bizarre things.” gruelling journey through the Amazon and was recently featured Making the wise decision to self-film his journey along the in new hardback tome Great Expeditions: 50 Journeys That Amazon, Stafford uploaded video and blog entries to his website Changed Our World, alongside sea voyager Captain James Cook, live en route, which not only resulted in a book deal, but the Everest climber Edmund Hillary and Antarctic explorer Ernest footage being cut into a two-hour TV series that aired on Britain’s Shackleton. “It’s nice to be included because I’m proud of the Channel 4, Discovery Channel, and in 2017 it’ll be shown on expedition I did, partly because everyone said it was impossible Quest. He’s since followed Walking The Amazon with Discovery’s and partly because everyone thought I was daft as a brush,” jokes Naked And Marooned – in which he survives in the wild with no Stafford, believing there are plenty of other incredible journeys clothes on – and Into The Unknown, where he goes off the grid yet to be done. “I came in at the right time,” he modesty and investigates geographical mysteries. Technology has played a
| 56 |
OS72_054-060 Ed Stafford.indd 57 1/23/17 5:18 PM THE SURVIVOR
I was in a constant state of fear, paranoia, frustration and weariness. But when scary things happened it was a welcome break from the monotony
big part in his expeditions. At certain moments in the wild it has local alcohol and making small talk. So one day we decided we just offered solace. “Literally opening that laptop and reconnecting couldn’t be bothered. We walked out of the jungle and into a to the world via a satellite link was extraordinary,” he says. “It village and just kept walking. We left the village and considered would have been impossible 10 years ago, but I consider myself ourselves very smart as we’d avoided potentially hours of very lucky to do an old-school expedition in the modern world, chatting. Then about an hour later an armed group of men caught and to be able to broadcast it live and let so many other people up with us and detained us at gunpoint. We were ordered to experience it vicariously.” walk back to the village – also at gunpoint. The journey itself wasn’t without its dangers. “Whenever we Apparently a villager had gone missing the day before and, passed through an indigenous community, Cho [Stafford’s guide] because I was the first white face ever to just walk through the and I would always make a point of asking for the village chief. This village, I was under arrest for suspected murder. I was questioned proactive behaviour meant that we were always seen as above board – I’m not exaggerating – for about seven hours. We were held and legit. But each time it would involve lots of customs like drinking overnight too. Half of me was worried and frustrated by the
| 58 | | 59 |
OS72_054-060 Ed Stafford.indd 58 1/23/17 5:18 PM Next month from March 26, Emirates will upgrade its daily Dubai-Sao Paulo service from a Boeing 777-300ER to an A380, making it the first ever scheduled commercial A380 flight to South America, and marking Emirates’ tenth year of operations in Brazil.
Ed Stafford embracing his old-school survival skills
hold-up, half of me found it hilarious. At one point the village chief nests that form on the underneath of large leaves. You simply shouted at me angrily because the Queen hadn’t personally signed can’t see them, and if your machete cuts through then you’re my passport. It was crazy. We were eventually released when the guaranteed at least 20 stings if you’re upfront. It became very real police came by boat the next day and saw me, immediately, as amusing if you were walking number two or three as you got a tourist – not a murderer. to witness someone completely losing their rag and shouting It wasn’t just human contact that had the potential for danger, like an idiot. Well, we needed something for entertainment. either. “We encountered hundreds, if not thousands of bees, on “The whole journey was fairly packed with odd stuff. I walked the way,” continued Stafford. “There aren’t any ‘killer’ bees any in rubber wellies two sizes too small for me for two months. more, as the aggressive strain (that escaped by accident) has now That gave me puss-filled blisters that I’ll, unfortunately, remember bred itself peaceful again. But they are still bees – and bee stings forever. I also had an abbott fly living in my head, which is a bit hurt quite a lot. We would rotate cutting upfront. It was hard, gross but harmless. Some of my expedition members in the past sweaty work and the unavoidable danger was the bees and wasp have deliberately left them in there, so they can get back home
| 58 | | 59 |
OS72_054-060 Ed Stafford.indd 59 1/23/17 5:18 PM THE SURVIVOR
Black caiman Bull shark
Jaguar Anaconda
At one point the village chief shouted at me angrily Electric eel Red-bellied piranhas because the Queen hadn’t personally signed my passport. IT WAS CRAZY
and squeeze out a maggot from their body in the pub. All good, honest fun. Pit viper Assassin bugs “I think I had a constant state of fear, paranoia, frustration and weariness combined. But when scary things happened it was a welcome break from the monotony. I’m not trying to be flippant but
when the adrenaline started pumping, those were the best bits. The T he Mo ST de A dl Y CR e AT u R S AR ound MAZ on I ve boring monotony was the hardest part of the walk.” It’s one thing surviving now, with modern resources like electronic water level readings, a laptop to connect with the wider world, and Poison dart frog Pacu fish using a camera as a strange kind of therapy in the most isolated of environment. But just how different would it have been 100 years ago? “There were times when I was walking in the Amazon when the camera batteries would run out or the GPS didn’t work, there were weeks on end of no technology and using the sun as a compass, I’m married and have a baby on the way.” Stafford is fully prepared to and grass-roots technology. Invariably they were the best times, stay at home if his wife – female adventurer Laura Bingham – heads when you’re experiencing exploration in an old-school way, it was off on an expedition of her own. “In terms of physical endurance much more enjoyable,” explains Stafford. “That said, I wouldn’t have women have a far greater capacity,” explains Stafford. “When you go completed that journey if it weren’t for the satellite communication past 100 miles, in whatever sport you’re doing, women don’t only system that allowed me to put a plea out online and make a video to catch up with men, but often exceed us. If you look back in history a Coldplay soundtrack, with a PayPal link next to it.” when we were long distance hunters, tracking animals for days on In early 2017, Stafford will be filming a new show (which he can’t end, women quite often had to do that pregnant or with a child in give details about yet), but he admits his biggest future challenge is tow. Laura is fiercely determined to make something of her own being a dad. “The drive to do something for elegiac reasons is getting adventure career and she’s prepared to suffer like a lot of us to less,” says Stafford. “The older I get the more balanced life becomes. achieve that – I will do anything I can to support her.”
| 60 |
OS72_054-060 Ed Stafford.indd 60 1/23/17 5:18 PM Dubai International Boat Show 28 Feb - 4 Mar 2017 Dubai International Marine Club, Mina Seyahi Explore 5 Days of Ocean Adventures
BUY YOUR DREAM BOAT FROM BUDGET TO LUXURY Find boats of all sizes for all lifestyle and every budget
STUNTS EXPLORE Spectacular live jetpacking the ocean in the world’s and flyboarding stunt shows plus Ortega fastest personal submarine illuminated light shows PARTY Live bands, food trucks and FREE watersports lessons at Adventure Beach. Bring the kids!
Kormaran K7 Seabreacher TRANSFORM with the most adaptable vessel to light up the water
FLY AMAZING through the waves on the ‘Aquabatics’ above Seabob world’s fastest water sled and below the water
PLUS MUCH MUCH MORE! FREE SAILING TRIPS • RETAIL VILLAGE • SUPER CAR DISPLAYS • MARINE ART GALLERY • DMEX (DIVE MIDDLE EAST EXHIBITION)
Open from 3:00pm ~ 9:30pm daily #seaadventure #dubaiboatshow Buy Tickets Online and Save AED 10 BOATSHOWDUBAI.COM Follow us:
ORGANISED BY VENUE SUPPORTING SUPPORTING OFFICIAL VIP OFFICIAL CAR OFFICIAL PARTNER OFFICIAL OFFICIAL OFFICIAL MARITIME PARTNER SPONSOR SPONSOR MAGAZINE AIRLINE COURIER PUBLISHER AUTHORITY PARTNER HANDLER
DIBS 2017 VISPROM OPENSKIES 195X260 FP.indd 1 1/17/17 1:55 PM Lifestyle new.pdf 1 1/15/17 11:41 AM
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K Essential news and information from Emirates
New A380 service to Casablanca 72
Inside Emirates Route Map 70 82 BRIEFING
OS72_063-086 Briefing.indd 63 1/24/17 12:15 PM EmiratE s nE ws
EmiratEs airlinE fEstival of litEraturE Clockwise from left: Jeffrey Archer, Khaled Bin Hamad, Jon Ronson, Nadiya Hussain
March 3 to 11, and will see 160 authors from more than 30 countries conducting 250 sessions. High-profile attendees include Jeffrey Archer, Kathy Reichs, Hamad Al Hammady and Mourid Barghouti. Among the featured events this year are the Residential Creative Writing Course, Pimp My Rice: Lunch With Nisha Katona, Murder Mystery Dinner: The Fatal Festival, and the The Great British Afternoon Tea: With Nadiya Hussain – winner of the BBC’s The Great British Bake Off in 2015. You can learn more about the Emirates Airline Festival of Literature in the podcast on Channel 1503, and watch festival guest Nadiya Hussain in her show The Chronicles Book lovers can now secure their place are now on sale. In just nine short years the of Nadiya in Lifestyle TV on ice. at one of the world’s most beloved festival has grown into the UAE’s premier You can also stay up to date online, literature events. literary event, hosting international and with #DubaiLitFest on Facebook, Twitter, The Emirates Airline Festival of Literature regional writers, poets, thinkers and speakers Instagram and YouTube, as well as get is the Middle East’s largest celebration of from around the world. year-round news of #ELFDubai on the written and spoken word and tickets The 2017 edition will be held from Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Snapchat. EmiratEs’ cuddly family Expands
Young travellers will be delighted to see four new additions to the much-loved Emirates’ Fly With Me Animals family. Each character represents different parts of the world, and has their own story to inspire tomorrow’s explorers to discover the regions and cultures of destinations on the Emirates network. The new additions – taking the total to 12 – are Carlos the macaw from the rainforests of Central and South America; Ernie the penguin from the Antarctic ice shelf; Eve the reindeer from the snowy their hands on the first eight can visit the comes with a plastic toggle allowing the toy forests of North America; and Fudo the Emirates Official Store online, which ships to be hung in the car, on a pram or in the tiger from the jungles of Southeast Asia. worldwide. cot; the Carry Buddy, a dual-purpose toy These characters are now onboard, The animals are featured across three and blanket; and the Magnetic Sketcher. but collectors who would like to get product lines: the Travel Buddy, which emiratesofficialstore.com
| 64 |
OS72_063-086 Briefing.indd 64 1/24/17 12:15 PM Smile all the stay.
All our hotels are in dreamlike settings, but if we can go the extra step, rest assured that we have what it takes to surprise you, over and over again, so you’ll keep wondering what’s next?
MAURITIUS • RÉUNION • MALDIVES • CHINA • TURKEY • VIETNAM • U.A.E
LUX_Emirates_Ice Cream_Issue Feb17_Eng.indd 1 1/12/17 4:28 PM EmiratE s nE ws
The mosT comforTable flighT of your life
Flying with Emirates is set to become even more luxurious, thanks to a host of exclusive products available in the First and Business Class cabins. The stylish extras include First Class lounge wear, luxury blankets, skincare from VOYA and a new range of amenity kits from Bulgari. Ensuring a peaceful night’s sleep onboard, Emirates has introduced the to the fabric, which gently release naturally Emirates has partnered with Bulgari world’s first moisturising loungewear moisturising sea kelp during movement. to design its exclusive kit bags, and designed for an airline. In partnership You can also find a plush, faux sheep- complete the experience with a new with Matrix, the suits use Hydra Active skin blanket in First Class, while Business range of luxury spa products, now Microcapsule Technology designed to keep Class customers can also look forward to available both onboard and on the skin hydrated during the flight. The patented newly-introduced soft duvets in charcoal ground, from award-winning Irish technology uses billions of capsules applied grey on their next flight. brand VOYA.
susTainabiliTy in The skies
as part of its continued commitment woven into a soft blanket. They’re warm, “strived to develop a product for our to product innovation and sustainability, comfortable and made from 100 per cent airline partners to help reduce their Emirates has introduced environmentally- recycled plastic bottles. environmental impact”. friendly blankets for its Economy Class By the end of 2019, the Emirates The new blankets were introduced passengers. blanket programme will have collected onboard all long-haul Economy Class Made with ecoTHREAD™ innovation, 88 million plastic bottles from landfills to flights in December 2016. it will be the largest onboard sustainable create the blankets that are the equivalent Emirates already runs a green blanket programme in the airline weight of 44 A380 aircraft. programme on board recycling industry. Each blanket is made from Leonard Hamersfeld, Director at Buzz, aluminum cans, plastic and glass 28 recycled plastic bottles, which have the partner of Emirates in delivering bottles, and clean paper products been transformed into a fine thread and sustainable products, said the company where possible.
| 66 |
OS72_063-086 Briefing.indd 66 1/24/17 12:15 PM YOUR LAST CHANCE FOR FAST-TRACK PERMANENT EU RESIDENCY
Fulfi ll your dreams of living Imagining a bright future in Europe In our complicated world, having a This could be your very last chance to second option for you and your family is tap into the best, most cost-effective important. way to acquire permanent residency in Europe, to make a second home for With permanent residency in Hungary, you and the members of your family you and your loved ones will be able that is fun, safe and full of opportunity to travel freely, protect your fi nancial in a beautiful little country with favorable assets, send your kids to the fi nest taxation and a low cost of living that universities, or even maintain a second offers a high lifestyle. home in Europe.
Just days ago, the Hungarian govern- Our specialists are experts in this fi eld, ment announced that 30 March 2017 know all of the ins and outs and only as the cutoff date for those interested provide fi rst-hand information, so at the in purchasing the Hungarian Residency end of the day you and your family get Bond, which entitles holders and their your residency quickly and with fewer families to live and work in Europe’s hassles. Call Arton Capital Hungary Schengen Zone. now!
Program applicants who decide to pursue citizenship will receive Hun- garian passports that entitle them to travel freely to 157 countries across the globe.
+36 1 321 04 34 | +36 30 539 29 24 ARTON Hajós utca 25 Budapest, 1065, Hungary CAPITAL eubond.org HUNGARY EmiratE s nE ws
RetuRn to naRita
As part of the growing demand for Currently operating a three-class Flight EK318 will depart Dubai at travel between Japan and the UAE, Boeing 777-300ER aircraft on its daily 2.40am and arrive in Narita at 5.35pm Emirates will resume its flagship A380 flights between Narita and Dubai, the daily. Return flight EK319 will depart service between Dubai and Narita from deployment of Emirates’ three-class Narita on Monday, Thursday, Friday, March 26. A380 on the Narita route will provide a Saturday and Sunday at 10pm and arrive Narita will join more than 40 total of 489 seats, with 14 private suites in Dubai at 4.15am the next day, while destinations on Emirates’ extensive global in First Class, 76 mini pods with flat bed on Tuesday and Wednesday it will depart network served by its highly popular seats in Business Class and 399 spacious Narita at 9.20pm and arrive in Dubai at A380 aircraft. seats in Economy Class. 3.35am the next day. new Route to zagReb
From June 1, Emirates will expand its European network with a daily flight from Dubai to Zagreb. The route will be served by an Emirates Boeing 777-300, making it the only wide- body service operating to and from Croatia’s capital city. The new Zagreb flight opens an exciting opportunity for Emirates’ passengers to explore a city that’s steeped in culture and Visiting the airline’s home of Dubai for Lanka is possible with less than four history. However, the new flights will not leisure or business, in a choice of three hours’ transit time. only benefit travellers in Croatia, but also different cabins on a modern, wide-body Flight EK129 departs Dubai at 8.15am those in neighbouring Slovenia and even the aircraft, is now a viable option, while and arrives in Zagreb at 12.20pm local southern regions of Hungary and Austria, onward travel to Shanghai, Beijing, time, and the return flight EK130 departs making it more convenient to travel with Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur, or Sydney, Zagreb at 3.35pm and arrives in Dubai Emirates to Dubai and beyond. Melbourne, Maldives, Seychelles and Sri at 11.05pm.
| 68 |
OS72_065-086 Briefing.indd 69 1/23/17 5:12 PM YOUR LAST CHANCE FOR FAST-TRACK PERMANENT EU RESIDENCY
The best permanent resi- Arton Capital Hungary: Your dency in Europe: a safe and direct contact for Hungarian secure investment residency
The basic investment in the Hungarian There is still time for you to make sure Residency Bond Program is a 5-year that you and the members of your tenure of EUR 300,000 in a Hungarian family can enjoy all the benefi ts of government bond, plus an application permanent European residency with no fee of EUR 60,000 which covers asso- minimum stay requirement. ciated administrative and legal costs for the entire 5-year period. As the invest- Get more information on the Hungarian ment amount will be returned after the Residency Bond Program by making bond tenure period, the application fee direct contact with Arton Capital Hun- is the only cost of the program, making gary, a company offi cially licensed by it a truly economical choice. Arton the Hungarian government to adminis- Capital Hungary also offers fi nancing ter the Residency Bond. options to help cover the investment amount. Please contact us for more details.
+36 1 321 04 34 | +36 30 539 29 24 ARTON Hajós utca 25 Budapest, 1065, Hungary CAPITAL eubond.org HUNGARY InsI de e m I rates ACCESS ALL AREAS Emirates has the largest network of airport lounges in the world, and with a brand new lounge making it seven for Dubai alone, it seems that your flying experience just got a whole lot more relaxing
WORDs: Matt MOstyn
| 70 | | 71 |
OS72_063-086 Briefing.indd 70 1/24/17 12:15 PM InsI de e m I rates
any savvy traveller will tell you that an airport lounge is the best way to avoid a noisy, chaotic departure terminal and enjoy a more comfortable environment in which to wait for your flight. At Dubai International Airport, Emirates now has seven lounges located in its flagship Terminal 3. With three concourses available, you’ll find a First Class lounge and a Business Class lounge located in each (A,B and C) – as well as a brand new lounge in Concourse C that caters to both First and Business Class customers. Once you’ve left Dubai, you’ll discover 33 other lounges across the globe, giving Emirates the largest network in the world. But this isn’t simply a numbers game – quality comes with the quantity. All lounges are equipped with the services you’d expect, such as a business centre, food, drink, comfy sofas and shower facilities, but at Dubai you’ll also find a health spa, wine cellar, a dedicated children’s their drinks at a glamorous bar featuring a golden wave design, play area and an a la carte menu in the First Class lounges, as well as adorned with 2,400 handcrafted intricate gold leaves. a premium cigar lounge and shoe shining services. In addition to the new refreshment stations, the children’s A recent US$11 million upgrade to the Emirates Business play area (featuring arcade quality games) has been doubled in Class lounge in Concourse B took two years to complete and size, and the lounge’s Timeless Spa has been renovated, and now is a real show-stopper. It’s part of the airline’s commitment offers hair, beauty and therapy treatments. Lounge guests can also to improve and upgrade its services for a more seamless and refresh with a shower, unwind at designated quiet areas, keep up enjoyable travel experience. to date with the latest news and live sports, and stay connected Besides the range of gourmet cuisine – prepared by on-site with complimentary Wi-Fi. chefs – and complimentary full bar service, guests at the refurbished Space is also a key feature, and the newly designed lounge lounge will enjoy a brand new standard of hospitality. This comes in measures close to 9,209 square metres. That means it’s able to the shape of three new distinct areas, containing food and beverage accommodate more than 1,500 travellers – a 40 per cent increase concepts that cater to diverse tastes. They include a barista experience in capacity. in partnership with Costa Coffee, a health hub in partnership with Over in Concourse C, the newly opened Emirates’ Lounge fashionable bottled water brand Voss, and an exclusive Moët & caters to both First and Business Class passengers, along with Chandon champagne lounge, created exclusively for Emirates and Silver, Gold and Platinum Skywards members. It’s a first for Dubai, serving four of Moët & Chandon’s finest champagnes in one place. as the remaining six are dedicated to either First Class or Business This first-of-its-kind lounge reflects Emirates and Moët Hennessy’s Class customers. longstanding partnership of over 25 years. To complement each The lounge measures an impressive 1,308 square metres with champagne, chefs from Emirates flight catering and the in-house seating for 262, providing a much more relaxed and comfortable lounge product teams have collaborated with Moët & Chandon to waiting experience. You’ll find two dedicated dining areas with buffet create a unique selection of sweet and savoury canapés. Menus are service, two other locations offering an extensive range of drinks, changed monthly and will include delicacies such as smoked salmon a state-of-the-art business centre, complimentary unlimited Wi-Fi, wrapped in nori with wasabi mayonnaise (to complement the Moët shower spas and more. & Chandon Grand Vintage 2006), and passion fruit and jasmine tea It all adds up to an impressive collection, both in Dubai and macaroons (to be paired with Moët Nectar Impérial). beyond. With forty dedicated lounges in airports around the world Meanwhile, the new champagne bar’s surroundings are no less – as well as various partner lounges across six continents – it means impressive, and in true Dubai style, guests will be able to enjoy your journey with Emirates starts long before you get on the plane.
| 70 | | 71 |
OS72_063-086 Briefing.indd 71 1/24/17 12:15 PM Destination
| 72 | | 73 |
OS72_063-086 Briefing.indd 72 1/24/17 12:15 PM DESTINATION
CASABLANCA Next month, Emirates starts daily A380 service to Casablanca, making it the first commercial Airbus A380 operating to North Africa. So enjoy our guide to this vibrant destination Ask someone who hasn’t been to Morocco for their thoughts on as well as the major global retail brands you would expect of any Casablanca, and you’ll more than likely get film references, and modern city worth its salt. words on ancient bazaars and exotic spices in reply. While this is A city in transition, cranes are dotted across the skyline in an certainly the case in certain parts of the country, the port city is attempt to keep up with the demand for modern buildings and very much the modern heartbeat of the country. facilities. It’s a sure sign of progress. Then, of course, there’s the You’ll find some colonial French charm, not to mention one of coastline, resplendent with beaches that are perfect for relaxing or the most magnificent mosques in the world. But the historic city tackling the waves at one of the many surf schools. perched on the Atlantic coast is also home to young, ambitious Morocco is a country turning any and all preconceptions on Moroccans working in a host of new and creative industries. their head, and its offering gets more interesting and diverse To cater to this contemporary crowd, there are a multitude of with every passing month. Here’s what to look for in a trip to places to unwind and party, lots of exciting restaurants and cafes, Casablanca and beyond.
EAT STAY DO EMIRATES
LE RELAIS DE PARIS SURF GLOBE SCHOOL VISIT HASSAN II MOSQUE STAFF With its wonderful French classics Fancy learning to surf while in Morocco? This stunning mosque is Africa’s and panoramic views of the sea, This camp is located 20km south of largest and is definitely worth TIPS it’s easy to see why Le Relais de Casablanca and has all the equipment visiting, even if you’re only admiring Paris is regarded as a jewel of needed to earn your stripes in the water. it from the outside. Set against the Casablanca’s restaurant scene. Start Up to 10 people can make use of the backdrop of the Atlantic Ocean, it’s with the rich fish bouillabaisse-style single and double bedrooms, while visits Casablanca’s standout architectural soup before diving into the steak to nearby attractions and towns are landmark. Tours of the interior are tartare with frites. readily available. limited and at set times, so check Khadija villablanca.ma surfglobeschool.com before travelling. Lahouiri SENIOR ACCOUNTS PORT DE PÊCHE HOTEL & SPA LE DOGE SHOP AT MOROCCO MALL ASSISTANT An institution at the heart of the The rooms of this charming With shops and activities to suit all GET ACTIVE biggest fishing harbour in North boutique hotel boast high ceilings, budgets, Morocco Mall makes for an while art deco touches flow Sign up for a horse riding Africa, this is the place for the easy family day out. While similar to session at the Club freshest seafood imaginable. It’s a throughout. Ask for a room with a most modern malls found around LeBarry, or a round of throbbing hub of locals and visitors. balcony overlooking the courtyard the world, some nice features golf at the Tony Jacklin Inexpensive, full of atmosphere, and and check out the restaurant, include the central aquarium and Prestigia course. the scale of the operation is almost which serves a great breakfast. the amount of natural daylight that as impressive as the food. hotelledoge.com floods in from the large windows +212 5223 18561 overlooking the ocean. GRAY BOUTIQUE HOTEL & SPA moroccomall.ma LE RESTAURANT In stark contrast to the multitude AT LA MAISON ARABE of traditional properties, this DIP IN THE ATLANTIC If your travels take you to five-star boutique hotel is modern, While the beachfront is currently Nadia Riah Marrakech – a 50-minute flight from stylish and full of all the amenities undergoing huge amounts of AIRPORT Casablanca – book a table at this needed for a rewarding city stay. regeneration, much like the rest of the SERVICES MANAGER magnificent restaurant. Traditional Situated in the Triangle d’Or, city, it remains a great place to frolic music and authentic cuisine combine access to premium jewellery designers in the Atlantic or soak up some sun. It GET SEEN Explore Casablanca to create an exotic atmosphere and luxury fashion boutiques is on has a surprisingly Mediterranean feel, Corniche – it’s the best under flickering lantern lights. your doorstep. and once the works are complete this place for those who want lamaisonarabe.com grayhotelandspa.com will be the city’s prime spot. to see and be seen.
From March 26, EK751 will become an A380 flight, leaving Dubai at 7.25am and arriving in Casablanca at 12.55pm. EK752 departs Casablanca at 2.55pm and lands in Dubai at 1.25am the next morning.
| 72 | | 73 |
OS72_063-086 Briefing.indd 73 1/24/17 12:15 PM COMFORT
COMFORT IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today.
SMART TRAVELLER
DRINK TRAVEL WEAR USE SKIN KEEP MAKE SHARPS BOXES PLENTY OF LIGHTLY GLASSES MOISTURISER MOVING YOURSELF Sharps boxes are WATER Carry only the Cabin air is Apply a Exercise your COMFORTABLE available onboard Rehydrate with essential items drier than good quality lower legs and Loosen clothing, all Emirates flights water or juices that you will normal, moisturiser to calf muscles. remove jacket for safe disposal frequently. Drink need during therefore swap ensure your skin This encourages and avoid anything of medical tea and coffee your flight. your contact doesn’t dry out. blood flow. pressing against equipment. Please in moderation. lenses for glasses. your body. ask a member of your cabin crew for more information.
BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY AT THE AIRPORT DURING THE FLIGHT WHEN YOU ARRIVE Consult your doctor Allow yourself plenty of time Chewing and swallowing Try some light exercise, before travelling if you for check-in. will help equalise your ear or read if you can’t sleep have any medical concerns Avoid carrying heavy bags pressure during ascent after arrival. about making a long through the airport and and descent. journey, or if you suffer onto the flight as this can Babies and young from a respiratory or place the body under passengers may suffer cardiovascular condition. considerable stress. more acutely with popping Plan for the destination – Once through to ears, therefore consider will you need any vaccinations departures try and relax as providing a dummy. or special medications? much as possible. Get as comfortable as Get a good night’s rest possible when resting and before the flight. turn frequently. Eat lightly and sensibly. Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.
| 74 |
OS72_063-086 Briefing.indd 74 1/24/17 12:15 PM
customs & visa information Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle-free as possible.
CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM
All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.
ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program, you must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.
ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA.
The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.
A successful ESTA application is valid for two years. However, this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.
apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta
nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**
* SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr program.
| 76 |
OS72_063-086 Briefing.indd 76 1/24/17 12:15 PM The suites at Bupa Cromwell Hospital (Just what the doctor ordered)
The Royal Suite
When it comes to your health, compromise is not an option. To find out more about our exclusive Royal and Presidential suites, and to talk about your healthcare requirements, contact our dedicated team on +44 (0)7809 316 205 or email [email protected]. Bupa Cromwell Hospital, 164-178 Cromwell Road, London SW5 0TU Expect the exceptional. customs & visa information Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. The US Customs And Border Protection agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.
Follow TheSe STePS:
1 2 3 4
have your boarding card or You’ll be given a Quick After passport clearance, If your bag is tagged to your ticket for your connecting flight Connect card. Continue to the claim your baggage and clear final destination, hand it to ready for the ground staff as Quick Connect queue in the US customs, regardless of your emirates staff at the transfer you exit. Arrivals hall. final destination. counter for your onward flight.
quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.
You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left onboard. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.
quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items. You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if:
• you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock
The counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer.
| 78 |
OS72_063-086 Briefing.indd 78 1/24/17 12:15 PM This image is for advertising purposes. YK98439-30/3/17
INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED HEALTHCARE SERVICES AT YOUR DOORSTEP
MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES: • Mediclinic Welcare Hospital • Mediclinic City Hospital • Mediclinic Dubai Mall • Mediclinic Ibn Battuta • Mediclinic Meadows • Mediclinic Arabian Ranches • Mediclinic Mirdif • Mediclinic Al Qusais • Mediclinic Beach Road • Mediclinic Al Sufouh • Mediclinic Corniche • Mediclinic Al Hili
EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST.
UAE • SOUTH AFRICA • NAMIBIA • SWITZERLAND www.mediclinic.ae UAE SMART GATE
NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE BE SMART! UAE SMART GATES USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI UAE INTERNATIONAL A A A AIRPORT B B B
GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START
Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed C D F through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate. If you hold a machine-readable passport or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds. F G G Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.
I I I USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY
J K L
Have your E-Gate card or machine- readable passport ready to be scanned 1 L M M
N N Z N
Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your O P Q 2 E-Gate card into the E-Gate slot
S M S A S
OK!
Go through the open gate, stand in the blue S K S S footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open 3 and you can continue to baggage claim S *UK USA
*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)
REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY: To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments • Machine-readable passports from having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time the above countries you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way • E-Gate cards just minutes after you landed.
| 80 |
OS72_063-086 Briefing.indd 80 1/24/17 12:15 PM Massachusetts General Hospital named among America’s Top Hospitals
To request an appointment, visit massgeneral.org/international
Ranked as one of the top three hospitals by U.S. News & World Report, Massachusetts General Hospital (Boston, Massachusetts, USA) is the only hospital in America to be ranked across all 16 specialties. ROUTE MAP
| 82 | | 83 |
OS72_063-086 Briefing.indd 82 1/24/17 12:15 PM ROUTE MAP
NEW ROUTES: Zagreb: daily service starts June 1 Newark: daily service via Athens starts March 12
| 82 | | 83 |
OS72_063-086 Briefing.indd 83 1/24/17 12:15 PM ROUTE MAP
| 84 |
OS72_063-086 Briefing.indd 84 1/24/17 12:15 PM emirates advocates.pdf 1 12/21/16 6:31 PM
CORPORATE & COMMERCIAL LEGAL SERVICES LITIGATION, ARBITRATION & ADR BUSINESS SETUP & COMPANY REGISTRATION OFFSHORE & FREE ZONE COMPANY FORMATION INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY & E-COMMERCE LAWS BANKING, INSURANCE & MARITIME LAWS C REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION LAWS M MEDICAL NEGLIGENCE Y DRAFTING & CONTRACT REVIEWS CM LEGAL TRANSLATION MY DEBT COLLECTION CY TRADEMARK & PATENT REGISTRATION CMY PROTECTION & ENFORCEMENT K
DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS 14th Floor, Sheikh Zayed Road P.O. Box: 9055, Dubai-UAE T+971 4 330 43 43 F +971 4 330 39 39
ABU DHABI JABEL ALI TEL: +971 2 639 44 46 TEL: +971 4 887 16 79 [email protected] [email protected] SHARJAH INTERNET CITY TEL: +971 6 572 86 66 TEL: +971 4 390 08 20 [email protected] [email protected] RAS AL KHAIMAH TEL: +971 7 204 67 19 [email protected]
UAE | SAUDI ARABIA | QATAR | BAHRAIN | KUWAIT | OMAN ROUTE MAP
| 86 |
OS72_063-086 Briefing.indd 86 1/24/17 12:15 PM OPEN SKIES FOR IPAD
Search for Open Skies on the App Store
openskiesmagazine.com
os ad_OS.indd 1 1/23/17 4:54 PM Our fleet of 260 aircraft includes 245 EMIRATES FLEET passenger aircraft and 15 SkyCargo aircraft
AIRBUS A380-800
up to This month: 1 arriving 2500+
16%
All Emirates A380 aircraft are fitted with Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services. 15 (16%) of the A380s are now equipped with Live Television, with more 94 in fleet. Up to 489-615 passengers. Range of 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m coming soon.
BOEING 777-300ER
This month: 1 arriving up to 2500+
76%
99 (76%) of Emirates Boeing 777-300ERs are equipped with Live Television, Wi-Fi, Mobile 130 in fleet. Up to 354-442 passengers. Range of 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m Phone and Data Roaming services, with more coming soon.
BOEING 777-200LR
2500+
10 in fleet. Up to 266 passengers. Range of 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m
EMIRATES SKYCARGO BOEING 777F
The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo 13 in fleet. Range of 9,260km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.
| 88 | | 89 |
OS72_088-089 The Fleet.indd 88 1/24/17 12:16 PM CONNECTIVITY AND ENTERTAINMENT SERVICES AVAILABLE
#
Live Television Wi-Fi Mobile Phone Data Roaming Channels of inflight GSM GPRS entertainment
For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press
BOEING 777-300
1500+
10 in fleet. Up to 364 passengers. Range of 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m
AIRBUS A319
550+
The Emirates Executive Private Jet takes our exceptional service to the highest level to fly you personally around the world. Fly up to 19 guests in the utmost comfort of our 1 in fleet. Up to 19 passengers. Range of 7,000km. L 33.84m x W 34.1m customised A319 aircraft with the flexibility of private jet travel. Further information at emirates-executive.com
EMIRATES SKYCARGO BOEING 747 ERF
This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deck-side cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of 2 in fleet. Range of 9,204km. L 70.6m x W 64.4m passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.
| 88 | | 89 |
OS72_088-089 The Fleet.indd 89 1/24/17 12:19 PM Knowledge the Guide A-list opinions on the world’s greatest destinations. This month: Grammy Award winning superstar, Rihanna, talks Barbados
The food alone is if you’re looking worTh coming for for wildlife Barbados is all about seafood: You can go out on a boat and saltfish, fishcakes, fish stew, see a whole load of turtles, but we have amazing seafood. if you’re at Sandy Bay Beach, Daphne’s is a really romantic you really don’t have to head place, with great seafood and a far out at all – they’ll pretty fantastic view. If you’re looking much swim up to you, and the for somewhere a little more water is so clear, so you get a relaxed, the Waterfront Café great shot of them, too. in Bridgetown has the most fantastic food and live music. if you’ve goT jusT one day in barbados when i’m back home, That’s tricky, you have to come no day is really for longer. But if we’re sticking Typical to 24 hours, then make sure So much of my time back that it’s Kadooment Day (the there is obviously taken up by first Monday of August). You’ll seeing friends and family, but experience the most amazing otherwise: eat, drink, beach, carnival ever. There are party dance, repeat. The BeAches ARe AmAzinG, The trucks that drive down the streets with incredible live if you’re looking for food fAnTAsTic, And life fAlls music and DJs – it’s literally greaT beaches inTo A pATTeRn of eAT, dRink, the most fun ever. It’s one Sandy Lane Beach is absolutely of those things everybody beautiful – and some of the BeAch, dAnce, RepeAT should try and experience nicest hotels on the island are once in their life. located there too – so I would you surely don’T one of The besT absolutely recommend staying need To ask me abouT Things To do is The besT advice i can
in that area. The local drink? Shopping in Bridgetown give you is This co . uk ) AR kin ( folio ART. I’m Bajan, seriously, what else – it’s one of my favourite I can tell you all about There’s only one am I going to say apart from places. There are great little Barbados, but you’ll discover place To go for a rum punch? To me, there isn’t independent shops that sell when you arrive how beautiful nighT ouT anywhere more beautiful in the a lot of handmade jewellery this place is, and how much Head for the St Lawrence Gap world than Barbados to watch and trinkets. Once you’re it has to offer. The key is to area and you’ll have a great the sun set over the ocean. done shopping it’s one of the leave your worries at home. time, and make sure you check My advice is: wherever you’re best places to grab a drink Barbados is a little bit of out some reggae bars while drinking your rum punch, make and some dinner – there’s so paradise, so come and enjoy
you’re there. sure you have a sea view. much choice. it. Life can wait for a week. ion: mich A el p A s T old o : emm coile R; i llus TRAT
| 90 |
OS72_090 Knowledge.indd 90 1/23/17 5:17 PM naman.pdf 1 1/23/17 5:32 PM
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K N11906_SP_ADGH_PROFUMO_OPEN_SKIES_195X260_NOV16.indd 1 15/11/2016 10:22