Chapter 2: How to reach Kaliningrad

2.1. Travel options

‹ By plane

International flights available to Kaliningrad are serviced by LOT - Polish Airlines (Kaliningrad - Warsaw - Kaliningrad) every day except Saturdays.

You can book your flight via , Saint-Petersburg, or another Russian city connected with Kaliningrad by domestic airlines.

The nearest international airport that can be recommended is in Gdansk, . Your trip there will take approximately 5 hours, including border crossing. The price of a transfer by taxi is around $100 - $120.

See section 2.2., it contains information on how to cross the border check-points.

International flights from/to Kaliningrad by LOT Polish Airlines (Summer 2003)

Please note that all flights are via Warsaw

Depature from Kaliningrad Arrival to Kaliningrad Destination Dates Dep. Arr. time Days of Dep. Time Arr. Time Time return Warsaw 2-3,5-7 14.55 15.15 2-3,5-7 11.50 14.15 1,4 16.15 16.35 1,4 13.10 15.35 Milan 2,3,5,7 14.55 18.25 2,3,5 07.40 14.15 1,4 16.15 21.55 1,4 07.40 15.35 Rome 4 11.30 14.55 4 07.05 10.30 7 11.30 13.55 7 08.10 10.30 1,2,3,5,6 16.25 18.50 1,2,3,5,6 13.05 15.25 2,6 11.30 15.15

The time is local for departure and arrival. For detailed information, please contact BaltmaTours incoming department: 7 (0112) 21-18-80, 22-84-19 (0112) 21-18-80, 22-84-19

Domestic flights from Kaliningrad to Moscow and Saint-Petersburg

Destination Flight Days of Time Time Flight Days of Time Time Prices ** dep. of of dep. of of dep. arr. dep. arr. Moscow/VKO, K8986 daily 08:55 11:25 K8985 daily 12:45 13:25 2000/2800/ - Tu134 3200/3900 Moscow/VKO, K8990 1,2,3,4,6 15:30 18:10 K8 1,2,3,4,6 19:15 20:00 2000/2800/ - Tu134 989 3200/3900 Moscow/VKO, K8990 5,7 15:30 18:10 K8 5,7 19:15 20:00 2000/2800/ - Tu154 989 3200/3900 Moscow/VKO, 4216 daily 17:50 20:30 4216 daily 15:55 16:50 1600/2300/ - Tu134 3000/3200 Moscow/DMO, K8994 1,3,5 08:00 10:50 K8993 1,3,5 20:10 21:00 2000/2800/ - Tu134 3200/3900 Moscow/DMO, K8992 2 08:00 10:50 K8991 2 20:10 21:00 2000/2800/ - Tu134 3200/3900 Moscow/DMO, K8988 7 08:00 10:50 K8987 7 20:10 21:00 2000/2800/ - Tu134 3200/3900 Moscow/DMO, K8996 6 08:00 10:50 K8995 2 20:10 21:00 2000/2800/ - Tu134 3200/3900 Moscow/DMO, K8984 4,7 08:00 10:50 K8983 2 20:10 21:00 2000/2800/ - Tu134 3200/3900 Moscow/SVO, SY daily 11:20 14:15 SY daily 09:15 10:20 E=2000/2800/ Tu134 758 757 B=5300/ - 3200/3900 S.Petersburg, K8485 1,3,5 09:25 12:00 K8486 1,3,5 18:55 19:45 2500/ - 4250 Tu134 S.Petersburg, PL 6 20:10 22:35 PL 4 08:35 09:05 E=2500/B=3400/ Tu134 909 910 -4250 S.Petersburg, PL 4 10:15 12:40 PL 2 16:10 16:30 E=2500/B=3400/ Tu134 911 912 -4250 S.Petersburg, PL 2 17:55 20:20 PL 3 08:35 08:55 E=2500/B=3400/ Tu134 921 922 -4250 S.Petersburg, PL 3 10:20 12:45 PL 6 17:40 18:10 E=2500/B=3400/ Tu134 907 908 -4250 S.Petersburg, PL 5 19:00 21:25 PL918 1 10:45 11:15 E=2500/E=3400/ Tu134 917 -4250 S.Petersburg, PL 1 12:25 14:50 PL919 5 16:55 17:25 E=2500/B=3400/ Tu134 920 -4250 S.Petersburg, PL 7 15:20 17:45 PL965 7 11:35 12:05 E=2500/ -4250 Tu134 966

- tariffs are used on flight depending on terms of acquisition of tickets ** - tariff "Economy / Business / Amount"

‹ Kaliningrad airport

Kaliningrad airport is divided into two parts, adjoining, but with separate access, distant five kilometres one from the other. There is the domestic area for flights to/from and a smaller area dedicated to international departures.

The airport is located about 30 km away from the city and, due to the traffic, going to the centre takes about 30 minutes.

The domestic departures area is nearer to the city. Foreign passengers arriving from Russia are subject to passport control and their data are registered in a computer, but no stamp is affixed (for those who have a one entry visa or a visa with a limited number of entries, it is important to mention that the arrival in Kaliningrad from Russia is not considered as an entry in Russia!). Luggage delivery is immediate: in order to receive the luggage it is necessary to show the relevant coupon. There are no luggage trolleys in the airport, either in the domestic or in the international departures area. The price of the taxi into the city centre is approximately 10 euros. Taxis are not always available, so it is a common habit to stop private cars and ask for a lift. In this case the price of the transfer has to be agreed upon, but usually it does not exceed 150Rb. It is also possible taking the bus (the ticket can be bought on board and costs 5 Rb) or the so called marshrutnyj taxi, namely a bus following a prearranged route that stops on the way upon clients’ request.

For domestic flights the check-in normally starts one hour before departure and finishes 40 minutes prior the departure time. Passengers are boarded about half an hour before departure. The boarding procedure envisages a luggage safety control before checking- in. Luggage is weighed (usually also hand-luggage is weighed) and in case it exceeds the allowed weight (20 kilos in economy class), an extra sum has to be paid. Pay attention: the airport staff is very rigorous to this respect! The boarding pass may not always be given: for instance, the seat can be assigned automatically when the ticket is bought, or there can be no assigned seats on the plane.

After checking-in, personal safety and passport are controlled again. Even in this case, no stamp is affixed. After personal safety control passengers enter the waiting room, with a Free Duty Shop at disposal where perfumes, pieces of jewellery and especially are sold.

In the airport hall there is an information office, a post office, a newspaper kiosk (selling newspapers only in ), two souvenir shops, drinks (but not vodka) and ready-made food, the offices of two air companies and a bar where it is possible to find some snacks. In the basement there is also a left-luggage office, whose opening time changes quite frequently. It is better to check it before claiming the luggage.

The arrival area consists of a simple roof where documents are controlled and luggage is given back. Outside there is a wide parking area where it is possible to leave the car (the cost is 30 Rb per day).

The international departures area is used at present only for flights to/from Warsaw and is much more spartan than the domestic departures area. The building is very simple. The check-in is carried out right at the entry, followed by the security and passport control. The waiting room has a little shop (where it is possible to buy amber) and a bar inside. For international flights as well the ticket registration begins two hours before the flight and finishes 40 minutes prior to the departure time. It is a good rule to be at the airport at least 1 hour before departure time, because once the plane arrives the outgoing passengers are passing through the passport control, which usually may cause mixing up with passengers boarding the plane since they stand in the same passport control area. At the international arrivals area it is much more difficult to find a taxi. For this reason it is a good rule to have the pick-up already organized with the hotel.

‹ By train

The railway connects Kaliningrad with mainland Russia, Moscow and Saint-Petersburg (via and ) and Poland, namely .

Two trains to Moscow and one to Saint-Petersburg are available daily. A trip from Kaliningrad to Moscow or Saint-Petersburg takes approx. 24 hours. The ticket cost varies from 30 $ to 90 $ depending on the travel class. As far as it was possible to find out, citizens of the travelling from Kaliningrad to Russia do not need transit visas to pass through the territory of Belarus and Lithuania by train.

The train to Poland (Gdynia) is available daily. The trip takes approx. 6,5 hours. The ticket cost is approx. 15 $. Should you go to or any other Polish city you’d better buy a ticket in Kaliningrad to Tchew for about $13 and there buy a ticket for your final destination.

Some train connections are also available with Belarus and the .

Railway Timetable

City Time of dep. Time of arr. City Time of dep. Time of City arr. Gdynia 7:00 13:32 Kaliningrad 15:55 21:20 Gdynia (Poland) (Poland) Moscow 14:06 10:45 Kaliningrad 10:20 9:30 Moscow S. Petersburg 18:13 19:34 Kaliningrad 11:47 13:14 S. Petersburg Moscow 19:16 16:49 Kaliningrad 16:10 16:08 Moscow Charkov 07:40 Kaliningrad 13:02 Charkov (Ukraine) 0:30 (even (even days) 19:36 (Ukraine) days) ’ 09:50 Kaliningrad 18:42 Gomel’ (Belarus) 16:43 (odd days) (odd days) 11:14 (Belarus)

‹ By bus

A net of regular bus lines connects Kaliningrad with Germany, Poland and the Baltic States.

Baltic States • Lithuania (Kaliningrad – - Kaliningrad) – the one-way trip takes approx. 9 hours – daily • (Kaliningrad – – Kaliningrad) – the one-way trip takes approx. 11 hours – daily • ( Kaliningrad – – Kaliningrad) – the one-way trip takes approx. 14 hours – daily. Connections are also available with some other cities in Lithuania and Latvia.

Poland (Kaliningrad – Warsaw – Kaliningrad) – the one-way trip takes approx. 9 hours – daily. Connections are also available with Gdansk (daily), (twice a day).

Germany Bus connections are available with , Bremerhafen, Essen, , Hanover, Stuttgart and some other German cities. The one-way trip from Berlin to Kaliningrad takes approx.12 hours.

Bus timetable

City Time of dep. Time of City Time of dep. Time of City arr. arr.

Germany Bremerhafen 16:00 10:00 Kaliningrad 14:00 8:00 Bremerhafen (via Berlin) 1,2,5,7 1,3,6,7 (via Berlin) Essen 20:00 17:00 Kaliningrad 12:00 9:00 Essen 1 6 Bremen 8:00 10:00 Kaliningrad 14:00 16:00 Bremen (via Berlin) 1,2,4,5,6,7 1,2,3,4,6,7 (via Berlin) Hannover 20:00 14:00 Kaliningrad 12:00 6:00 Hannover 6 4 16:45 10:00 14:00 07:00 1,2,5,7 1,3,6,7 Stuttgart 15:00 14:00 Kaliningrad 19:00 16:00 Stuttgart 7 5

Poland Warsaw 12:00 20:20 Kaliningrad 21:00 3:30 Warsaw 2,3,4,5,6 1,2,3,4,5 Gdansk 15:30 21:00 Kaliningrad 6:30 10:00 Gdansk daily daily Olsztyn 12:45 17:30 Kaliningrad 6:00 9:30 Olsztyn daily 19:45 daily 11:00 15:00 8:00 daily daily

Lithuania Vilnius 13:15 20:35 Kaliningrad 22:40 05:45 Vilnius daily daily

Latvia Riga 9:20 19:00 Kaliningrad 9:20 18:55 Riga daily daily

Estonia Tallinn 18:00 9:00 Kaliningrad 19:50 10:35 Tallinn daily daily

‹ By ferry

You can also consider the possibility of a ferry line connecting Kaliningrad with (Germany) and Saint-Petersburg (Russia). The trip from Kiel to Kaliningrad takes approx. 32 hours (available each Sunday), and to Saint-Petersburg – 44 hours (each Thursday) and costs 128 ⁄. Moreover, you can pick your car on a ferry with you – this will cost additional 213 ⁄. Contact information: Agent in Kaliningrad – “TransExIm”, tel.: +7 (0112) 55-40-27, fax: 51-67-23, E-mail: [email protected]

‹ By car

The car can be a valid alternative to other means of transportation, especially when two or more persons are travelling. There are two main routes that can be followed to reach Kaliningrad from Italy. The shortest one touches Tarvisio, Vienna, Brno, Katowice, Warsaw, Olsztyn and the Polish-Russian border post in Bagrationov. This route is 1,300 km long from Trieste and 1,550 Km from Bologna. The condition of roads is quite good up to the border between the and Poland, but the 700 km to be covered in Poland are quite difficult and slow. The approximate duration of the travel from Bologna to Kaliningrad is one day and a half. The other route touches Brenner, Munich, Nuremberg, Berlin, Gdansk, and arrives till the border check-point in . The entire route from Bologna covers about 1,800km (400km on Polish territory). In addition to that, after the border between Germany and Poland there are no other borders till the arrival in Italy, and in Germany there is no speed limit on the motorway and no risk of incurring into speed cameras. There are no cities to pass and the entire route is by motorway. If two people take turns at the wheel one day should be enough to cover the distance from Kaliningrad to Bologna. Concerning the travel by car, the sore point is border crossing between Poland and the Russian federation. The queue of cars can be very long, but a decorous foreign car can pass through the border avoiding it. There are some tricks that can be used to this respect: 1. Don’t stop when you see the queue, but overtake it very slowly; 2. At the border explain everything to the police in Russian language just telling the truth: mention that you are on a mission and that you are expected to arrive at a definite hour. 3. If you don’t speak Russian nobody will ask you anything, but just in case, “passwords” are: komandirovka (mission) sovescianie (meeting) director italianskaja companija (director – they will understand general director – of an Italian company)

It is essential to give the interlocutor the idea of being an important person, who cannot lose an entire day waiting on the border.

These long queues on the border between Russia and Poland are due to the so called “trans-national trade”: in fact in the two countries there are big differences of price for some consumer goods like fuel, cigarettes and vodka. People gossip on the border: they talk, eat, exchange information on this or that functionary. A system of precedences and little corruptions exist, but without this trans-national trade there would be much more misery and jobless people on both sides. Therefore the queue on the border is part of everyday life of those who survive thanks to this activity. Anyway, it shouldn’t block the way to people who have nothing to do with trans-national trade.

The formalities to be attended are (in chronological order): - Passport and car registration documents control, control of the car loom number. - Issue of a certificate for car temporary import (it can have six months of validity). - Customs control. Pay attention as in Russia the green card is not valid. It is a good rule to make an insurance policy at least for the civil responsibility for the period of stay.

The border crossing points are:

On the border with Poland: – Bezledy Mamonovo – Gronovo Gusev – Goldap

On the border with Lithuania: Chernyshevskoe – Kibartai Sovetsk – Panemune Pogranichnoe – Romanishkyai Morskoe – Nida (Kurshskaya Spit)

In Kaliningrad the speed limit is 90 km/h on out-of-town roads and 60 km/h on town roads.

2.3. Visa and passport regime

Foreign citizens and stateless persons can enter and exit the territory of the Russian Federation (RF) by obtaining Russian visas and carrying valid documents accepted by the Russian Federation and proving their identity, except it is otherwise envisaged by international treaties and agreements. Residence permits in RF are issued by the organs of internal affairs to foreign citizens and to stateless persons who reach the age of 16 at the place of their permanent residence for the period of validity of their foreign passports, but not more than for 5 years, and for those who are 45 or older for the total period of validity of their foreign passports. Foreigners in RF must have a foreign passport that should be registered (the note with indication of place and period of permitted stay in RF) in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, department of internal affairs or in hotels.

The following persons are exempt from registration of their foreign passports: • members of parliamentary and governmental delegations (including technical personnel, their family members); • foreign citizens younger than 18 years of age; • foreign citizens who arrive to RF for holidays or for week-ends and stay for less than 3 days in every place of their trip; • foreign citizens passing through RF territory in transit; • foreign cruise tourists;

Since there are some areas restricted to foreigners in Kaliningrad Region (marked with big blue signs written in Russian, English and German), in order to control their entrance to these areas, Russian hosts must applicate for registration of their foreign guests at the territorial of the Administration of Federal Security service (AFSS) or at the department on duty of the AFSS in Kaliningrad . Application is made in three copies with indication of number and personal data of coming persons, purpose of their visit, time and period of stay. After co-ordination with the departments concerned, two copies of the application are given back to the hosting organization and they are used as the permit for the trip. In order to enter Baltijsk and Primorsk, a permit of the relevant Administrations is required. In case of necessity visa registrations and extensions are made on the basis of written application of the Russian hosting party in the following bodies: 1. Passport and visa department of the Administration of Internal Affairs of at the address: 13, Sovetsky Prospect, Kaliningrad, tel. (0112) 21-73- 21. 2. Passport and visa sections of the district departments of internal affairs in the city of Kaliningrad.